Installing the freeze plugs and rebuilding this 50 year old Chevy 350 (CSB) engine block at HOME! No machine shop needed! Check out all my other links: linktr.ee/traf...
You need to use a bigger socket and a dead blow hammer. Never use a steel hammer to hit another tool with. You should tap the front oil galley holes and install 5/16 plugs.
Hey those 3 little Plugs you drove in at the front of the block are for the main cam tunnel Oil gallery's and one upgrade most guys do is to tap those holes for a 1/4 Inch pipe plug. You don't actually have to do any drilling just run the tap through and that way you can eliminate the possibility for those plugs to pop out because if they do you'll lose all oil pressure and that's not fun. Other than that great work man love the progress. Brass block plugs are easier to drive in and don't rust too BTW.
@@brettjohnson8009 yes that is true I forgot to mention that the oil gallery at the top of the cam tunnel you have to make sure the plug doesn't block or restrict the small oil hole tht is drill directly downwards towards the cam bearing.
@@wrenbrighton2358 I've seen it happen., most forget that pipe taps are tapered , the taper is what makes them seal , but to get them tight they have to be turned in further, plugging the hole
Should remove one of the 1/4 plugs that goes into each side of the block and replace it with a brass or stainless steel lever tap. Can drain the entire block of water after you have first run the enhine for a while, any rust, dirt, shit thats in the block will get flushed out then. Run the engine in without antifreeze/anti-rust/coolant in it for first 500miles. Stops the chance of antifreeze soaking thru a headgasket as gasket gets a chance to harden up.
MLS/steel gaskets dont of course. Composition gaskets will harden up after a certain period of time from new. If coolant/antifreeze is put into a newly rebuilt engine with composiition gaskets then there is a chance it will seep thru and siften the gasket up. So why put the coolant in when it can be run on plain water for the first 500 odd miles then add the coolant later on. Its worked for us on engines up to 30 litres in both petrol and esp diesel (na, turboed, supercharged) for 40 odd years. Same goes for sum types of paper gaskets. Does depend on concentration of coolant too.
Most important information about freeze plugs in cooling system. They don't fully seal until the engine has warmed up. You must leave radiator cap off when warming up engine. Freeze plugs expand when engine warms up & that's when they become fully sealed. Leaving radiator cap off stops pressure building up before freeze plugs are fully sealed and prevents water leaking past seal plugs. Warm the engine then let cool with no radiator cap on. Leave to fully cure sealer on freeze plugs. Overnight is better. Up to you.
Two mistakes you've made it are about to make. Using steel plugs, they will rust from the inside. Paint over them and you won't know when they start to rust from the outside. Also when you drive them in and you scraped the coating on them they will rust. I use brass plugs. They don't rust . Just a thought....
@@TheGarageGoblin make sure you clean that crap you put on them or it will leak. I've never used any sealer to install them. Brass is a little softer and will conform to the block. All you need is the right size socket like you used but use the other end of the socket, the ratchet side not the nut side..
You need to use a bigger socket and a dead blow hammer. Never use a steel hammer to hit another tool with. You should tap the front oil galley holes and install 5/16 plugs.
Hey those 3 little Plugs you drove in at the front of the block are for the main cam tunnel Oil gallery's and one upgrade most guys do is to tap those holes for a 1/4 Inch pipe plug. You don't actually have to do any drilling just run the tap through and that way you can eliminate the possibility for those plugs to pop out because if they do you'll lose all oil pressure and that's not fun. Other than that great work man love the progress. Brass block plugs are easier to drive in and don't rust too BTW.
Yeah but there is one of those front plugs that put in too deep will block an oil passage
@@brettjohnson8009 yes that is true I forgot to mention that the oil gallery at the top of the cam tunnel you have to make sure the plug doesn't block or restrict the small oil hole tht is drill directly downwards towards the cam bearing.
@@wrenbrighton2358 I've seen it happen., most forget that pipe taps are tapered , the taper is what makes them seal , but to get them tight they have to be turned in further, plugging the hole
Brass rust as well
Should remove one of the 1/4 plugs that goes into each side of the block and replace it with a brass or stainless steel lever tap. Can drain the entire block of water after you have first run the enhine for a while, any rust, dirt, shit thats in the block will get flushed out then. Run the engine in without antifreeze/anti-rust/coolant in it for first 500miles.
Stops the chance of antifreeze soaking thru a headgasket as gasket gets a chance to harden up.
Head gaskets don't have to "harden up" to seal, WTF ??
MLS/steel gaskets dont of course.
Composition gaskets will harden up after a certain period of time from new. If coolant/antifreeze is put into a newly rebuilt engine with composiition gaskets then there is a chance it will seep thru and siften the gasket up. So why put the coolant in when it can be run on plain water for the first 500 odd miles then add the coolant later on. Its worked for us on engines up to 30 litres in both petrol and esp diesel (na, turboed, supercharged) for 40 odd years. Same goes for sum types of paper gaskets. Does depend on concentration of coolant too.
Thanks Champ"
Most important information about freeze plugs in cooling system. They don't fully seal until the engine has warmed up. You must leave radiator cap off when warming up engine. Freeze plugs expand when engine warms up & that's when they become fully sealed. Leaving radiator cap off stops pressure building up before freeze plugs are fully sealed and prevents water leaking past seal plugs. Warm the engine then let cool with no radiator cap on. Leave to fully cure sealer on freeze plugs. Overnight is better. Up to you.
Where the hell did you come up with that malarkey
This is completely incorrect.
Two mistakes you've made it are about to make.
Using steel plugs, they will rust from the inside. Paint over them and you won't know when they start to rust from the outside. Also when you drive them in and you scraped the coating on them they will rust. I use brass plugs. They don't rust .
Just a thought....
Very good insights, may consider swapping them out!
@@TheGarageGoblin make sure you clean that crap you put on them or it will leak. I've never used any sealer to install them. Brass is a little softer and will conform to the block. All you need is the right size socket like you used but use the other end of the socket, the ratchet side not the nut side..
I have a 71 Monte Carlo with a 350, does it have 2 freeze plugs on the back side of the engine for the coolant?
@elijahgonzales3252 not sure
Brass does rust