Prevent Leaking Freeze Plugs: Engine Rebuild Part 15
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 27. 08. 2024
- Here I show the process of how to replace freeze plugs on my project 1992 Jeep Wrangler Yj 4.0l. There are a few tips I show on how to prevent freeze plug leaks. There are other ways of replacing the freeze plugs that may work just fine, but this is the process that works best for me. I intend to show the entire process of this project Jeep rebuild!
Permatex Aviation Sealant:
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Engine Rebuild Kit by Enginetech:
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It's ok to keep the plugs flush, but its proper to keep them recessed into the block several millimeters. Amazing video, also
sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot my account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Kane Lucas Instablaster =)
@Shane Jackson Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Shane Jackson It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Kane Lucas Glad I could help =)
This is the best and most correct method I have seen on youtube, well done friend
I was just thinking to myself today that I need another Jeep Solid video! Great work!
Haha! Thank you.
Nice video. Patient, professional, approach with good explanation. i am working on a 77 4.2 right now. I paint the permatex on the back of the plugs a couple nights before I install them. At install time I paint the ring and join that to the painted backs and then install. I do this in the hopes the permatex can impede rusting processes.
Coming along really nice Dale. I agree with herbiesnerd that the freeze plugs should be tapped in just a little further . The use of the Permatex sealer is a good idea on preventing any little leaks that may occur . I have been doing it that way for many years and have had no problems . Thank you for posting your video and I'm looking forward to your next installment of this series . Take care !!
Thanks for following along! It's been a fun project. Yeah, what herbies said makes sense.
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I just bought a Melling 4.0L block plug set and was wondering were those screw in plugs went. Now I know! Thanks.
Great job.
Spot on perfect block cleaning with the hot soapy water and rinse. Bottle brushes should be handy too to scrub those galleries and jackets.
WD40 is perfect for quick anti-rust protection. Remember the WD stands for Water Displacement so you can spray it before its dried off for immediate rust prevention.
Great research on the freeze plugs. Hereâs my two cents on installation. I would want the maximum surface contact between the block and the plug. The flush insertion you did looks good in theory, but just from a casual observation the camera view provided, it doesnât look like the plugs were tapped in deep enough to maximize the contact surface. Both the block and the freeze plug have that 1/4â or so flat surface. All 1/4â of that flat surface should contact the block if possible. That very flush top area of the plug and block does not contact the plug. Thereâs a little gap so youâre losing a small amount of contact surface area. Consider tapping them in a little further if what Iâm saying makes sense.
Now that youâve attached the engine stand mount two different ways, what do you think? The way you did it in this video is much easier than the first time you and your buddy did it while the mount was still attached to the stand.
Itâs really looking good and Iâm still impressed with your changes in approach along the way.
Thank you! Always willing to learn and adapt.. Thanks for the feedback. What you said about driving in a little further makes perfect sense. Well explained. Most of what I saw said flush, but a little more makes sense. Permatex should add good insurance.
Having the bracket on the engine then sliding it into the stand seemed best, but would have been nice to have a helper lift it. Haha! Thanks for watching!
Yeah no kidding with the lifting. No one needs to blow their back out for an engine.
I know that exact Permatex smell youâre talking about. As stinky as it is, it has the smell of old school legitimate stuff!
@@JeepSolid @Why not use the engine hoist and a short tow strap through a cylinder bore just to help lift the block? And a 3rd point tow strap to stabilize it. This would add time to the process but seems worth it for best practice. You must have been feeling very strong and confident.
As an aircraft mechanic, I can tell you that aviation sealant of all types stink... Some smell as if someone passed some serious gas... Sometimes we would walk into the maintenance control center where all the paper wok is located and open one of those sealant packagers while the supervisors , leads, and record keepers were in there....funniest thing ever.....lol...
It is coming along nicely... Another awesome rebuild video Dale...
Haha!! That's great. Stuff sure stinks. Thanks for following along. Hope to start the engine this spring...?
Good video I prefer a socket and drive it in a bit more past block edge leaving a lip between block and face edge of plug, than flush cos when the coolant pressurises in an engine its added insurance knowing the plug is in a bit more as coolant pushes plugs out under pressure but not all engine blocks you can go past flush as their a bottom out casting in block for plug depth which doesnt enable you too thanks for sharing too
Yea man I just did these on my 2000 TJ 4.0 and I used brass. 3 of 5 were leaking. I used Permatex Shellac Indian head. Very frustrating to have to disassemble again. Thanks for the tips! I like the driver idea but since my block is still in the vehicle the socket method helps to keep the plug in place
It's going to be really nice when your done. Looking forward to more of your videos. Have a great weekend.
Thanks! It's always fun hanging out in the shop.
Nice Job! I'm here because I just sank the core plug for my rebuilt 7120 head too deep on one side ugh!! so ok do it 2ice learn and do it right cannot have this baby leak 4.7 stroker build when done 60 over woo hoo!!
Gasket material will make it slide in easier and most likely let it slip out easier during heat cycling. I was always told that the freeze plug would cycle heat as close to the blocks heat cycling. But I guess this is something new? Never to old to learn i guess.
I never knew until your video that a special tool existed for driving those plugs in.
I made one myself a long time ago that's exactly like it. If I were to use a socket or something I would drive it in too far.
THANKS...somehow, I've acquired the exact same driver die set that fits the plugs perfectly. Maybe picked it up when the 20ton press was bought. Anyway, while cleaning up my block, I noticed scraping off that particular type of sealer also known as gasket shellac. It can be found at all parts stores.
I used the rubber ones, never had a problem afterward.
you do nice work the two on the side were hard to diagnoce
You had the right idea on the freeze plug install. Looookin Good.
Thanks!
Great video, just ordered a driver setâŠ.
amazing what you can lift when you are motivated, lol.
The best thing for freeze plugs sealant is Permatex form a gasket sealant #1.
Very good !
Thanks for sharing
I tought you supposed to push in the plugs farther than the edge of the block
Nice Job Dale!!!!
Thank you!
Bro your great. Thank you .
I use that gasket seal at work great stuff as long as you keep it off your self.. Otherwise you are in some pain to remove it. Possibly some skin. Thanks for the videos!
Sure stinks to high heaven. Haha!
Rubbing alcohol cleans up the sealer from parts and skin nicely.
Thank you for the info
Nice video. I've used silicone sealant in the past, with no problems. I need to get some of the Permatex Aviation Sealant and see how I like it. Why not use it on your threaded plugs? I seldom use Teflon Tape any more on pipe threads. On small fittings I use Loctite 243, if I want to remove them or Loctite 680, if I don't. On larger fittings, I prefer Rectorseal. All of the plumbers that I know use it and my experience with Rectorseal has been much better than the Teflon sealants that I have used. I think that Rectorseal would probably work on the core plugs as well.
Do you add washing soda to your detergent? Washing soda helps to remove oil and grease. If I'm hot tanking parts, I prefer an alkaline wash, even using dishwasher detergent. In fact, an old dishwasher makes a good parts washer.
Yeah, I was thinking I could have just used the Permatex on the threaded plugs as well.
Just used dish soap, but the block had been hot tanked at the shop. It was mostly clean. Just needed touch up.
Looks good !
Thanks!
Great job
Thanks!
Thanks for not showing me the unedited version of when you were using foul language, throwing your tools across the room, and breaking things.
Great job, very lean, thanks for sharing. That aviation gasket maker is something like shellac?
yes, but permatex has one just for freeze plugs called form a gasket sealant #1
The aviation stuff never really ever sets up. It stay kinda pliable.
How do us normal folks get a JeepSolid hat? Those things look sharp.
Thanks! It's a 1 of a kind right now, but I need to set up an ordering system soon..
Hey Dale. What color did you use for the block? I like it. Currently doing an overhaul in my garage. Love your videos. Lifesavers!!
We use to call them "soft plugs" because (I think) they are an annealed steel.
Getting a little wordy the more these videos go along but still great.
Which Driver Set did you use?
I think your freeze plugs need to be about a 1/16 deeper in. The top of the plug isn't touching the sides of the hole. where the plug is the largest diameter. there is a beveled bit just inside the opening the top of the plug should be at the bottom of the bevel in my opinion.
Speaking of freezing. Now is the time to add a block heater if you want one.
Yeah. Good tip. Not cold enough where I live, but may be good idea for others.
I'm doing a 2000 Cherokee, I'm from mn. But live in AR. now. The blown engine I'm replacing had a block heater. I was planning on putting one in the replacement engine. Never know if I'll visit home. Then wouldn't you know we just had below zero temps here.
2000fordrangerfreezeplugreplacement
Nice đ what size bolts & washers are you using to mount it to the engine stand Dale.
Save your back! Does that plumbing teflon tape withstand engine temperatures?
FYI
DO NOT USE BRASS PLUGS WITH ALUMINUM.
->due to a corrosive effect from the two metals
ThatSubieDude - Where exactly is the aluminum in this application? (And it is called galvanic corrosion.)
Ouch lol
Guess he thought this was the cylinder heads lol
Another great informative video Dale. If you weren't on the other side of the country I'd give you a hand. The build looks great, what driver set were you using?
Thanks! It's always nice to have a friend to help, but nobody was around and I needed it done. Haha
It was just a seal driver set rental from the auto part store. Worked well.
How did you get your block cleaned so nicely?
Anyone know the thread pitch or part # to the 2 treaded plugs that go on the side of the block ?
Couldn't you scuff & paint them for added protection on the inside.
Hi Dale
Ive got a 1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ and it continues to leak drips of antifreeze from back of engine and in front of bell housing. It runs like a dream and I tore down the head last year and had it milled and I replaced water pump, radiator, hoses, thermostat etc. Block and head are fine. I suspect leak is from one of the rear block freeze plugs. What is the quickest and easiest way to fix this. Does engine need to be pulled? Could anything else be causing this leak?
Thanks
Bill Hall
I just installed my plugs and mptor now in. But I noticed a little leak at first now seems to stop. Is that normal or should I replace them again?
Red locite all day on the core plugs.
Wondering if the gasket maker will end up causing more issues that it prevents?
the product he is using works great, I also use it on the rad hose and heater hose connections. No leaks and easy removal down the road 30+ years of building engines and never saw it cause a problem
I have leaking plugs between the engine and the transmission, now i have to remove the transmission to get to them. đđ
Speaking of leaks, the 4.0 head gasket usually seeps oil, you should think of solution for that.
Oh man! Yeah. Probably worst one to leak..
How many feris plugs do a303 hav
Am I the only one that puts a thin coat of Loctite on both the block and the core plug before driving them in? It drys hard and fills any voids.
you mentioned to use the brass plugs but you used the steel ones?
Yep. The steel is what was given to me for the job. Brass is just 1 change I'd consider
video 1: sheesh what a nerd
video 15: what will the genius do next?
LOL đ!! My favorite comment of the week. Haha! Thanks.
Do you think that perhaps freezing the plug would help to put it?
Yeah, some people freeze parts that are tight fitting to shrink them a tad. These were not frozen, but still went in fine.
genial!!
I have no idea how strong you are but I would guess it weighs 120 pounds the way you are lifting it. I can move quite a few 96 pound bags of concrete at 65 years old but I doubt I could still pick up 120 pounds without an injury. Bags of concrete have no sharp edges to get your fingers around like that block has.
so, if the core plug is laying in my boats bilge what chance's of a cracked block? 50/50?
Pressure test will be required
Can leaking rear freeze plugs cause coolant in oil?
core plugs on the back of the block, like where the bell housing covers are oil core plugs they would only leak oil, the freeze plugs/core plugs on the sides only leak coolant
First time I ever saw anyone using soap and water on an engine block. If I was going to do that id just put it in my wifes dishwasher. Might be safer for me to just continue using solvents. lol
lol if you have a core plug popped out it usually means the rest of your engine is already shot. Least the ones I have seen.
What is your full time job? Iâve been very curious...you may have mentioned it before
Yeah, I was thinking of mentioning or covering what I do in a video.... still brainstorming
Such a mystery...my guess is fireman for some reason
yes last thing we want is leaks got it no leaks, god forbid any leaks okay moving on with the no leaks plan
Ok. Good. Haha
What is the name of the driver set you used. I can't find it anywhere.
Gary Hall www.otctools.com/products/bearing-race-seal-driver-set
What color are you going to paint it?
Still undecided. Probably desert sand or military green... something close to one of those. Lots of time to decide. Haha
At 4:57 the surprise Inspector goes way beyond their job of looking over the process (for safety and quality ?) when they swagger through the camera shot like he / she owns the place! The nerve of her / him! I would call their Union and complain if I was you. Unless they do - own the place.
Haha! So true. She's always checking out what I'm up to.
Not in far enough.
You don't add any kind of sealant on those freezeplugs coreplugs and if you need to then you shouldn't be working on a engine
There's Pros that recommend it, but thanks for your feedback
Freeze plug mfgs say NO@@JeepSolid
Advocating buying a $100 "Driver Set" to put in a $1.00 part is foolish and misguided. Most people do this as a one time repair.
Yep. That's why I explained how you can borrow it for free at many auto part stores.
@@JeepSolid Re-watched the video- no mention that I could locate. You should have mentioned loaners and explained that it is a Bearing Race and Seal Driver kit. I really had to search to find this on O'Reilly and Autozone. Help your viewers out a bit more. Using this kit seems like a good idea.
@@JeepSolid thanks for the name of the tool used. I have been searching for a while.