Making 3D Prints That Don't Look 3D Printed
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- čas přidán 22. 05. 2024
- Want to make 3D prints that look less 3D printed? Between different models, filaments, settings, and beyond, you have a ton of options! #3dprinter #3dprinting #slicer
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Models Shown in Video:
Printable Bricks: printablebricks.com/
Thwomp: www.printables.com/model/3470...
Fillet and Chamfer 3D Printing Test: makersmuse.gumroad.com/l/nFYPl
Chess Pawn 1: www.thingiverse.com/thing:311...
Chess Pawn 2: www.thingiverse.com/thing:378...
Darth Vader Bust: www.printables.com/model/3669...
Oreo Box: www.thingiverse.com/thing:344...
FFXIV Aethernet Shard: www.etsy.com/listing/1063521852/
CaliCat: www.thingiverse.com/thing:154...
Crystal Cluster: www.printables.com/model/4171...
Coaster: www.printables.com/model/2074...
Dice Display Stand: www.printables.com/model/5164...
Low Poly Sitting Cat: www.printables.com/model/3565...
Handle: www.printables.com/model/2058...
Video Footage Courtesy of:
ModBot - Smooth 3D Printed Parts Without Sanding! Acetone Vapor Smoothing ABS - • Smooth 3D Printed Part...
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I never thought of using Fuzzy Skin to make a more grippable handle. That's cool.
Some more tips:
1. Avoid pure vertical and near horizontal surfaces. Pure vertical accentuates any layer stacking/Z banding type issues, and near horizontal accentuates layer height discreteness.
2. More filament choices to hide surface microstructure: not just matte, but also glitter/sparkle filled, glass or carbon fiber filled (but these need abrasive resistant extrusion system), and (a simple but good option!) filaments that aren't entirely opaque until a certain thickness.
Matching line width is no longer a design consideration. Arachne fixed that a year or so ago.
I agree, the Arachne algorithm does solve this with its variable line width capability. Its just helpful to understand how the filament is laid down when creating small features within a design. Thanks for bringing this up!
If you are sanding and filling to get a smooth surface. Fill first and then sand, and repeat as necessary. This gives you the least change to the dimensions of the part. Sanding first will make everything just a little bit smaller.
I'd like to see a more in-depth video on how to maximize the usefulness of the slicer tool!
We definitely want more videos! Great video and incredibly informative! Can't wait to see the next video!
Awesome! Thank you!
I love the cats! Great video for a guy like me that's getting ready to start using a 3D printer for the first time. Thank you!
Great video
You mean I can print an army of cats rather than benchies? I am subscribing just for that tip, hah!
definitely, a slicer video will be great.
cute t-shirt, can you share the link of it?
Hi Ricky, my wife got it for me on Etsy! Here's the link:
www.etsy.com/listing/1274738475/3d-printer-t-shirt-3d-printer-gift?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=things+i+do+in+my+spare+time+3d+printing+t+shirt&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&pro=1&frs=1&sts=1&organic_search_click=1
Great tips for a beginner! I hate when I get elephant foot.
It's a very informative video and I learned a lot. But I miss the recommendation of using a smaller nozzle because I think, this would reduce dramatically the lines on the surface. What do you think?
Completely agree! Changing to a smaller nozzle definitely will allow you to get smaller line widths and layer lines for greater resolution. I didn't include this in the video since I know some folks don't have the ability. But, with system's like E3D's Revo quick-change nozzles, this is becoming more and more attainable.
Extrusion width is typically a bit wider than the nozzle diameter no? i believe the default for prusa slicer on a 0.4mm nozzle is 0.45 mm, so 0.9 and 1.35 and 1.8mm wall thicknesses would be better.
This depends on the slicer, printer, and individual nozzle. Ideally your extrusion width would be exactly what the settings say it is (0.4, 0.42, 0.45, whatever). But, there are a lot of variables that make up this number such as the extruder motor force, overall pressure in the hotend, exactly melting characteristics of the filament, and squish (z offset). The primary point for this tip is more so to understand how the filament lays down and how to better control the fill between walls. You are correct though, keeping features as close to a multiple of your line width is more important than that of the nozzle.
What's that nice matte black filament for the vader bust?
That would be Polymaker Polyterra Matte PLA in Charcoal Black. It prints beautifully every time!
At 6:29 your circles are tesselated. Try exporting from your CAD software in STEP format instead of STL.
Thanks for the tip! I found these brick STL files on the internet, but will take your advice when exporting my next project.
At the risk of being "the safety guy," I wouldn't put a fan (potential spark) in an IPA chamber like seen at 7:30.
Not all fans have brushes so no brushessss no spark 💥💥💥💥 Be well and be safe...🦜
why not recommend 0.1 or 0.08mm layer hights?
Smaller layer heights will definitely get you better resolution, but print time will increase quite a bit, depending on the geometry of course.
I need the shirt. Where can I buy the shirt?
Everyone who is obsessed with 3D printing needs this shirt! You can find it on Etsy, here:
www.etsy.com/listing/1274738475/3d-printer-t-shirt-3d-printer-gift
Use the appropriate type of printer for the type of item you are creating. ;)
Just drip the part on resin and cure it, ista glossy part in no time.
Nils- you look so different!
I get better looking and more fit with every video. And my accent changes every other week or so.
Meanwhile there’s my printer, which randomly doesn’t print walls for some reason.
You can use a smaller nozzle. I consider .4mm nozzles draft quality.
I realize this is for beginners, but the first choice you should make is the printing modality. You can get better results much, much faster and easier with resin printing for this application. FDM is the wrong method.
I agree, you can achieve finer resolution in sometimes half the time with a resin printer! I think FDM is still relevant due to its accessibility on the market and ease of use (no harmful chemicals for printing/cleaning).
First
Yeah just use a resin printer.
why you cheating people and use clickbait cover for this video? whould you like if someone cheat you and spent 8 minutes of your life for junk?
I’m sorry you feel you’ve been cheated. Can you tell us more about what you found to be clickbait? I’m genuinely interested in knowing so we can improve.
@@The3DPrintingZone don't play dumb
Seriously. I don’t get what the issue is. The thumbnail shows a 3D printed brick and a Lego brick and stated that one is 3D printed. The video shows how to make prints not look printed. I don’t understand how you’re seeing clickbait in this.
@@The3DPrintingZone and a text: one of these is printed. So what should anyone expect from the video? Maybe that you will print a brick which is almost like a real one, no? Or maybe that you just put a picture and text with no regard to content? That wasn't the purpose of such thumbnail? Seriously, don't play dumb. And don't think that anyone likes clickbait or can't recognise it. Respect your viewers.
@@The3DPrintingZone don’t listen to this guy, he probably is the same kind of person who goes on 3d print Facebook groups and bullies the new members about “stupid” questions. I thought it was a great video and the thumbnail was good 👍🏻
yawn
You can do sandblasting for some jobs......Be well and be safe🦜