First attempt at 10min 3DBenchy on a modified Ender 3 printer
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- čas přidán 8. 08. 2024
- Just messing around trying to see how far I can push the machine until prints go bad. I was kind of surprised how well it turned out considering how much things were shaking at 25000mm/s² Acceleration, 50mm/s SCV, 400mm/s (100mm/s first layer) print & travel moves. Printed with eSun PLA+ filament at 220C.
LDO Orbiter v2, Phaetus Rapido UHF w/Bondtech CHT 0.4mm V6 nozzle, 7040 CPAP cooling, and BLTouch on a HMG7 toolhead w/CANBus interface. LDO 2504AC steppers (1.6A run current), TMC2209 drivers (stealthchop, coolstep, etc. disabled, 64 microsteps), MGN12H linear rails, belt-driven Z axis (80:16 ratio). Magnetic bed w/PEI sheet and solid silicone mounts. Raspberry Pi 4 Host running Klipper.
Official 3DBenchy STL sliced in PrusaSlicer 2.8, oriented 45 degrees, and using Speed Benchy rules.
0:00 - 0:25 Homing
0:25 - 0:55 Prime
0:55 - 11:05 Print
11:05 - 11:30 Result
#3dprinter #3dprinting #3dbenchy #ender3 #ender3v2 #crealityender3 #creality #klipper - Věda a technologie
![world's first sub 2 minute benchy [00:01:59] HD](/img/n.gif)
And it's actually a really good benchy. It always annoys me when people do speed benchy videos and the prints turn out like garbage, so this video was worth watching.
Thanks! I find this mildly annoying as well, but afaik are no rules relating to categories or grouping when it comes to printing speed boats. It's just a Slicer rule preset and it has to come out "dimensionally accurate within reason", which basically means it needs to have the shape of a Benchy :/
How on earth can this look better than my 1h30m Benchy... That's a helluva precise and stable setup. Nice work.
Thanks! Looking up close in person there is some slight ringing around the holes on the hull, but I was really surprised it came out looking this smooth and with no extrusion issues using a 0.4mm nozzle.
Goal achieved and the result is great! 👍
Damm the layer stacking is clean! Good job man!
Thanks! The CPAP fan is the champion here though 😅
Wow, color me impressed.
My goodness, voron speed with quality better than most of 3d printers. Saying im impressed is like not saying anything.
My original plan was actually to build a Voron with most of the parts used. Then got kinda sidetracked with tuning and thought it would be fun to see what happened if I slapped it onto the Ender.
I don't think I'll try this profile on anything else than benchmarks because there's no way my 0.4 nozzle could keep up with that over large areas. And things gets a little bit too smoothed out around corners, so tight tolerances would be a problem. But in this process found a pretty sweet spot that spits out a benchy in ~15mins that works for most prints that I do.
If you don't mind the noise. You can get some crazy speed by turning stealthchop off and amps up.
I'm actually running without stealthchop. 64 microsteps and 1.60A run current.
@@andersevenrud that is a damn quiet machine or great noise canceling mic
@@raiden9250 I recorded this on a Galaxy S21+ without any filters, but the noise from the CPAP cooling pretty much drowns out any sound from the steppers and the motion system. However, it's actually fairly quiet in person when not running the fans at full blast.
The most annoying noise actually comes from the pin resonance inside the BLTouch rattling around when going past ~100mm/s (audible in the homing stage).
thats impresive! congratulations!!, could you show how is your z axis system please :D
Thanks! It's a slightly modified BeltEnder setup. This was the first modification I came across that I could do with just using parts from storage and very few printed parts. Works really well! :)
Just made a short video so you can see it in action: czcams.com/users/shortssbl9ZH7pYrs
@@andersevenrud Thanks a lot! i will go to watch rn :D!❤
Wow!!
So I have the K1 Max and it prints between 14 to 16 minutes...
If I might ask... how much did the modifications cost in order to achieve this speed?
I haven't really kept track of the cost, but just scanning some prices online, around 300 dollars for new parts. I got a lot of stuff second-hand and the original printer for next to nothing so it didn't hurt my wallet that bad :)
Whaaat dude that is fcking insane, big salute!!! Mind sharing some info about the modifications that you have done and settings you are using?
Edit: I assume that your special part cooling is what allows you to get such good quality at great speeds?
It's indeed the CPAP cooling that makes this possible. It's running at 100% here, which is a bit too noisy for my taste.
As for modifications the first thing I did was to convert to linear rails, belted Z-axis and installed higher torque stepper motors.
From description: 25000mm/s² Acceleration, 50mm/s SCV, 400mm/s (100mm/s first layer) print & travel moves.
LDO Orbiter v2, Phaetus Rapido UHF w/Bondtech CHT 0.4mm V6 nozzle and 7040 CPAP cooling on a HMG7 toolhead. Using eSun PLA+ filament at 220C.
Official 3DBenchy STL sliced in PrusaSlicer 2.8, oriented 45 degrees, and using Speed Benchy rules
@@andersevenrud Thank you for your reply! It is very powerfull this CPAP cooling indeed, impressive to say the least. It is the first time I am seeing this promising cooling technology. Yes noise is naturally the trade off one must make in this situation, but the short print time definitely makes up for it. The other upgrades are also really nice, all of which I would like to do my self - especially linear rails and belt driven z axis. The only upgrades I have made to my 3 v2 is all Noctua fans, BL touch and Micro Swiss NG direct drive extruder. Are you running Klipper on your machine?
@@RandomUlrik I'm pretty sure that the design of the fan ducts I'm using is not optimal. I've seen other machines run at around 50% with the same effect and it does not sound much different from a 5015 at full blast.
Linear rails and solid bed mounts is a very nice upgrade. It pretty much eliminates the need for adjustments and extremely low maintenance. I tried dual Z rods, but since I only have one Z motor driver the gantry was never perfectly level... also it's impossible to completely get rid of wobble, so belted Z is definitively the way to go!
Yeah, this runs Klipper.
Impressive speedboat! I just tested my e3 v2 today after tearing it down compleatly to square up the frame, install linear rails, phaetus dragon, and ldo orbiter 2 in a hero me with dual 5015.
I printed a benchy in 20 min with minimal tuning, and to my suprise came out perfect. Before I had bad ringing at slower speeds. Now my stock y motor dont like its life, but im good for now.
Cool to see that yours can move even faster with better motors and still have good quality. Did you test if the braces improved shaper graphs anything?
Nice :)
What brand of 5015s did you get ? That was my previous setup and it could not cool things down properly on a ~20min profile. The bow overhang inclination always came out deformed because of curling layers up even when going as low in temps as I possibly could. I tried so many, but never got results that I was super happy with.
I did do some resonance testing before and after installing the braces, but there was not really much change. Probably within margin of error. Though, I did not test things far up on the Z-axis. That's probably where it helps out the most.
@@andersevenrud I have tried alot of fans. Right now im using gds time, I think they are 6000rpm and seems to push a decent amount of air.
@abengtz Aha. I gotta check those out.
So what all did you do to the printer to do that? I MUST KNOW!!!!
All the things :D
Very impressive, i`m currently "modifying" my ender 3 v2 to print a bit faster. What is SCV, if you don't mind ?
SCV is the "square corner velocity" in Klipper. It's how fast you want travel moves to be around 90 degree (or more) corners. It's kind of like "Jerk" in Marlin FW.
You can run a stock machine pretty fast by just increasing the acceleration in FW considerably and go all out on slicer settings. The results gets really good if you tune Pressure (linear) Advance and do Resonance Compensation. But the main bottleneck is the hotend.
You won't get much more than 10mm3/s volumetric speed before extrusion issues, jamming and all kind of other bad stuff occurs, especially on larger prints with long straight walls. Higher temps can increase it a little bit, but then stringing and cooling issues really starts impacting the quality.
So if you wanna go more than just a bit faster I would recommend looking into a V6 style hotend kit.
@@andersevenrud thanks a lot for the tips.
What is the part cooling on your ender ? Any link to the stl you used ?
It's a 7040 CPAP setup on a Hero Me with this duct: www.printables.com/model/631801-hero-me-gen7-cpap-dual-ducts
Way way way too much vibration between your printer and what it is sitting on.
if it works, it works.
It's currently sitting on a metal cabinet with extremely skinny legs on an uneven floor, so it's not really stable... but works just fine :) All the noise is things inside the cabinet moving around, heh. Sounds like a washing machine running from the next room.