2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200S carb rebuild - Part 1 The Disassembly
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
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This is Part 1 of my 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200S carburetors. I bought this bike a few weeks ago from a couple in Los Angeles. I was in storage for roughly 5+ years, judging by the fuel corrosion on the jets and float bowl pieces you see why a rebuild was soooooo necessary. The fuel turned in a weird green algae looking flakey film on everything...I went through 4-6 different cans of carb cleaning before I found the holy grail of carb cleaners (video link below).
The best carb cleaner I've ever seen!!!!!
• The best Carburetor cl...
The bike right after I bought it.
• 2001 Suzuki Bandit 120...
1200S Bandit carb disassembly: • 2001 Suzuki Bandit 120...
1200S Bandit carb: Surveying the damage after I disassembled the carbs: • 2001 Suzuki Bandit 120...
1200S Bandit carb reassembly: • 2001 Suzuki Bandit 120...
1200S Bandit replacing carb fuel nozzle and fuel pipes and orings: • 2001 Suzuki Bandit 120...
I just finished the video of the reassembly of the carbs, and I'll be separating the carbs to replace the fuel "T", and the other 2 fuel pipes and rings, that would have surely leaked if I didn't replace them.
I have a 2006 1200S Bandit and have had to strip the carbs too. I learnt the hard way that the screws are not Philips but are JIS - Japanese Industrial Standard. Most screws that look like Philips are actually JIS on Japanese bike. I have a set of these on order so I don't mess up the heads on any more screws.
Just a bit of info for you. Keep the videos coming.
On several bikes I've gone to a local Ace Hardware store and replaced all the screws with stainless steel allen screws if I think they need replacing. And the screws aren't expensive which is nice. :)
Most of the times I will go to Ace hardware and get new allen head screws for only a few cents a piece. Phillips screws can be stripped to damn easy. :)
@@surfdaze I agree that allen heads will be easier to work with and have done that swap too. The point here, though, is not that Phillips head screws cam out - the point is that they are JIS, not Phillips, and are less likely to do so with JIS drivers. Excellent video, by the way!
Hi, just been sorting my Bandit today had the carbs off and some screws were tight. Tech tip for you and the other viewers tap the screw with a hammer.... Just a few taps will loosen the clay in the threads and make them easy to undo 😎 If you chew a screw up then used a parallel punch straight on the top of the screw to reform the Cross section to give you another chance of removal. Cheers Phil 👍
I've even used a dremel to carve a regular screwdriver slot into the chewed up top of the screw and used a large regular screwdriver to force it free. :)
Fyi those are not Phillip's drive they are JIS ( Japanese industrial standard) the right screwdriver will get you a lot further but the next secret is to place the driver in the screw head and is the same time that you turn take a hammer and give a wrap on top of the screwdriver that will break any tension on the screw and it'll loosen right out.
Just bought a 2001 and I'm about to do the same thing.....this was helpful.
Used to race 1100's back in the day, I would use what was called panther piss for the screws on any part on the bike, combo of acetone and wd40, makes for breaking nuts bolts screws easy. Also I would never run K&N filters or any of the wire mess cloth ones, they do a terrible job of keeping dust out, I learned that from desert riding. Use sponge pods, clean often. Also When I would sync carbs I would put the hoses on before installing carbs, that way they are there already.
13:00 The #10-32UNF fine thread imperial size fastener has thread diameter 0.190" = 4.83mm and thread pitch 32 tpi = 0.794mm. This is extremely close to a M5x0.8 metric fastener, which has thread diameter 5mm and thread pitch 0.8mm. The #10 imperial screw uses 5/32" = 3.97mm allen key whereas M5 metric screw uses 4mm allen key.
You should change the name of the video to “Man with zip lock tool box cleans carbs on his bike”. Everybody will know it has to be a Bandit. Hah! All kidding aside, it was interesting to watch and good to know what I will be in for if I ever get a Bandit 1200. I live at over 6000 feet and it would really suck to go through all this only to find out it needs different jetting. Thanks for the vid.
Nice! This is very good reference, my bandit 1200 need to rebuild too.
I think the screws on the top end, either can screw into the middle of the diaphragm and then used as leverage
Just started to do this, my rubber diaphragms are completely stuck to the top of the carb body, as though they are never meant to be removed....I suspect the first time these have been stripped since the bike was manufactured
The big metal circles that the float needle go into. Mine I can’t get out at all. Know any tricks??
DONT FORGET to Red Loctite the CHOKE Diaphramzzz when you are DONE! LOL
What kit did yall order show pics and references please... did yall order 4 diff kits or does 1 kit come with all 4 rebuilds?????
It was K&L kit 18-5082. I ordered 4 kits..one per carb. You can actually see one of the kits at :42 on the video if you would like to see it. :) I hope that helps :) I believe I got them from Ebay, or Amazon...I can't quite remember.
Did the kit come with gasket for the fuel rail? Specifically the gaskets/O rings for where the main fuel line on the carb plugs into?
Hello ! Nice video!
I accidentally put way too much air filter oil on my exposed K&N air filter after cleaning them and it doesnt start since that excess oil got sucked inside my carbs .. Do you think i can get it running just bytaking the carbs off ?
thanks
Can you do them one @ a time? excellent vid man, really helpful...
Absolutely. That's basically how I do it, but I've been in the habit of taking them apart and segregating each carbs parts away from the others. I like to use old tuna can to soak the jets in carb spray as well 😁
@@surfdaze Cool, I watched all 4 vids last night, crazy helpful, and actually gave me the confidence to remove mine, also your synch came out really good, to clarify, the screws you were adjusting were on exterior arms on the butterflies? It was just a bit hard to see in the vid, .... again, GREAT job! I wouldve loved to see that v-65 magna...I rode one in mint condition when I was 18 and its haunted my dreams ever since, the Bandit totally reminds me of it...
@@thestcroixkid Yes those are the screws. I just reviewed the service manual and the far right carb as your sitting on the bike will not have a screw, but the first screw to adjust (if needed) is between the far right carb and the one just to the left. The manual says to adjust in order from the right screw then the middle one, and then the screw between the far left carb and the carb to it's right. I hope that makes sense :)
@@surfdaze You are the best, thankyou so much!
when i start my 2003 bandit 1200s from dead cold i have to use the choke of course, problem is the bike sounds and runs very rough when its on choke, also i would set the choke to 1500rpm when i start it, but it would just randomly jump to over 2000rpm while getting warm, any suggestions here? also below 3000rpm the rpm hiccup if i try to drive it at 2500rpm
@16:15 what screw was that?
That is just a retainer screw that is holding down the "Valve seat". :)
@@surfdaze lovely, thanks
excellent..thank you
Aw darn who uses standard screws on a japanese bike. It seems so wrong lol