Thanks for the video. I changed my fuel filter, cleaned my carb, changed my spark plug, changed the air filter, cleaned the spark arrestor, and now I am here. I don’t have a tool to test the ignition coil, but I found a video that shows how to test without a tool and sure enough no spark. I’m going to order the part and will update this comment with the results!
OKAY TOOK THE PLUG OUT NO CHANGE, OBVIOUS SOMETHING WAS BINDING, REMOVED SHAFT AND OPENED UP THE CASE AND SURE ENOUGH THE MAGS HAD MOVED , USED A CREDIT CARD TO SET GAP INSTEAD OF PAPER BIZ CARD, PUT BACK TOGETHER, STARTED 1ST PULL SITTING FOR THE WINTER, CLEAR GAS ALWAYS COMES THRU AND SEAFOAM. THANKS!!
Spark plug gap is half a millimeter. Coil to flywheel gap is .3 mm. The grease is Husqvarna general purpose grease but I understand Echo offers something special for trimmer heads and I'm gonna see if I can source a tube of it.
Hey brother I was wondering if you might be able to help me? I replaced the coil and still no spark. So I replaced the killswitch and still no spark. Used a spark tester and shows no spark even getting to plug so that's not the problem. What else could I do? Is there possibly a way to test the coil maybe it came bad from factory? I'm so lost on this thing.....
You do such a nice job with these videos. Well explained and presented. What's up with these Husqvarna trimmers and the ignition coil problems. Act like a carb problem and end up being the coil. Second time for me. As you might say: CRIPES! ;-)
@@TheGreasyShopRag Hopefully the comment made you smile, and I hope you keep making these videos. I've learned a lot and always been entertained. One of the screw holes to mount the coil is screwed (stripped). I bought it used so I'm guessing someone tried to repair this previously. Could you tell me the machine screw size so I can repair it properly? Also wanted to describe what I was encountering. I could start it and sometimes it runs pretty well for a while, albeit with a lot of smoke and cutting out, then suddenly dies. My theory is that the coil works intermittently and about half the time the fuel gets no spark, thus the heavy smoke. Seem plausible to you? Another theory is that the coil is moving due to the stripped hole.
@@threejackcity4471 Yes I giggled both times I've read it now! Your coil theory is plausible but you don't need to worry about it right now. Fix the screw hole then see how it runs. If it still smokes then dig into the carb. CRIIIPES, I don't know the screw size. Having access to most sizes makes me stupid. I just find one that fits and don't care about the size.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Screw hole repaired - upsized - igniton coil replaced, all seems good now. Fingers crossed. Anti-CRIPES! (I'm always more clever after a margarita!) Thanks for the response/advice!
I pulled my coil, how many ohms should I get(my multimeter set to 20kohms)? I’m getting 1.68 from the spark plug cap to the metal on the coil, 12.8 on the kill switch (I think, it’s the little clip on the side of the coil)
@@TheGreasyShopRagthanks for the speedy reply! I did watch his video. It went a tad over my head but I think my numbers are a little low. I’ll replace the coil and see what happens. Thanks for the great vid
Hey I put mine back together and can't pull it to start, seems to be locked up, did not remove pull string coil assembly , did I miss something on alignment of shaft?
Pull the spark plug and see if its still locked. If so then loosen bolts holding engine to clutch cover and see if its binding. Yes something may be mis aligned or bound.
I gotta 128 ld that’s over heating and shutting off after bout 10 mins of run time. Is that an ignition problem or is there a thermostat or something I need to replace?
No thermostat. Possible ignition, possible fuel tank vent problem, possible scored cylinder, possible air leak and also possible blocked fuel filter or carb screen. Start with the free stuff like checking the cylinder for scoring.
I am working on the same trim right now. I’ve done a tuneup. Still can’t make it run clean. The carburetor still wouldn’t run. I put a spark tester in line and it runs great and sparks take the spark, tester off and put the boot and plug back on and it will not run it just bogs out and dies. When I put the spark tester back in line it runs fine, so spark tester and place it runs no spark tester in place and it won’t run any ideas
@@TheTrailblazer1974 I don't know if the extra resistance actually changes the timing a bit or if the radio interference caused by non-resistor plugs effects the coil but many times over the years I've just swapped out the incorrect non-resistor plug for the correct resistor plug and made the equipment run better.
Thanks for the video. I changed my fuel filter, cleaned my carb, changed my spark plug, changed the air filter, cleaned the spark arrestor, and now I am here. I don’t have a tool to test the ignition coil, but I found a video that shows how to test without a tool and sure enough no spark. I’m going to order the part and will update this comment with the results!
Good Luck!
Always great comments. I enjoy seeing you work.
Okay I'll give it a shot, thank you for getting back to me, quite surprised, cool! let you know out come.
I gotta do this same project on mine. Thanks for showing me how to do it easily!
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Hope the channel keeps growing.
Growth is slow. Subject matter isn't what it started out to be. I enjoy doing it so I guess theres that.
OKAY TOOK THE PLUG OUT NO CHANGE, OBVIOUS SOMETHING WAS BINDING, REMOVED SHAFT AND OPENED UP THE CASE AND SURE ENOUGH THE MAGS HAD MOVED , USED A CREDIT CARD TO SET GAP INSTEAD OF PAPER BIZ CARD, PUT BACK TOGETHER, STARTED 1ST PULL SITTING FOR THE WINTER, CLEAR GAS ALWAYS COMES THRU AND SEAFOAM. THANKS!!
Glad to hear you got it working. Good job!
NICE VIDEO WOULD LOVE TO SEE HOW YOU INSTALL IT BETTER NEED TO SEE HOW IT GOES ON
Its not a great video as far as detail goes but I think it does show well enough how it goes on. What are you having problems with?
That's it? Alright then, I'll look around for another video on this matter 😮.
Do you have a question about the procedure?
What is the GAP? What type of grease are you using? Excellent video....
Spark plug gap is half a millimeter. Coil to flywheel gap is .3 mm. The grease is Husqvarna general purpose grease but I understand Echo offers something special for trimmer heads and I'm gonna see if I can source a tube of it.
Is that .30mm. Or .03mm
0.30 mm
I’m an idiot and didn’t set the gap like you said. When I stared it up I had a real bad grinding noise. Did I ruin this thing forever?
I've seen some pretty ugly ones still running. Give it a try.
Hey brother I was wondering if you might be able to help me? I replaced the coil and still no spark. So I replaced the killswitch and still no spark. Used a spark tester and shows no spark even getting to plug so that's not the problem. What else could I do? Is there possibly a way to test the coil maybe it came bad from factory? I'm so lost on this thing.....
Did you try testing it with the kill switch wire removed from the coil?
You do such a nice job with these videos. Well explained and presented. What's up with these Husqvarna trimmers and the ignition coil problems. Act like a carb problem and end up being the coil. Second time for me. As you might say: CRIPES! ;-)
Lol! You'd think they would do a better job on coils seeing as they have a lifetime warranty.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Hopefully the comment made you smile, and I hope you keep making these videos. I've learned a lot and always been entertained.
One of the screw holes to mount the coil is screwed (stripped). I bought it used so I'm guessing someone tried to repair this previously. Could you tell me the machine screw size so I can repair it properly?
Also wanted to describe what I was encountering. I could start it and sometimes it runs pretty well for a while, albeit with a lot of smoke and cutting out, then suddenly dies. My theory is that the coil works intermittently and about half the time the fuel gets no spark, thus the heavy smoke. Seem plausible to you? Another theory is that the coil is moving due to the stripped hole.
@@threejackcity4471 Yes I giggled both times I've read it now! Your coil theory is plausible but you don't need to worry about it right now. Fix the screw hole then see how it runs. If it still smokes then dig into the carb. CRIIIPES, I don't know the screw size. Having access to most sizes makes me stupid. I just find one that fits and don't care about the size.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Screw hole repaired - upsized - igniton coil replaced, all seems good now. Fingers crossed. Anti-CRIPES! (I'm always more clever after a margarita!) Thanks for the response/advice!
I pulled my coil, how many ohms should I get(my multimeter set to 20kohms)? I’m getting 1.68 from the spark plug cap to the metal on the coil, 12.8 on the kill switch (I think, it’s the little clip on the side of the coil)
The manufacturer doesn't provide that information. Tom did a nice video on the topic:
czcams.com/video/Nyp7LGG4B2A/video.htmlsi=FOipMhcYu6SVid2f
@@TheGreasyShopRagthanks for the speedy reply! I did watch his video. It went a tad over my head but I think my numbers are a little low. I’ll replace the coil and see what happens. Thanks for the great vid
While you are in there, keep the shaft greased. Got it.
Lol you probably already knew that.
Hey I put mine back together and can't pull it to start, seems to be locked up, did not remove pull string coil assembly , did I miss something on alignment of shaft?
Pull the spark plug and see if its still locked. If so then loosen bolts holding engine to clutch cover and see if its binding. Yes something may be mis aligned or bound.
I gotta 128 ld that’s over heating and shutting off after bout 10 mins of run time. Is that an ignition problem or is there a thermostat or something I need to replace?
No thermostat. Possible ignition, possible fuel tank vent problem, possible scored cylinder, possible air leak and also possible blocked fuel filter or carb screen. Start with the free stuff like checking the cylinder for scoring.
I am working on the same trim right now. I’ve done a tuneup. Still can’t make it run clean. The carburetor still wouldn’t run. I put a spark tester in line and it runs great and sparks take the spark, tester off and put the boot and plug back on and it will not run it just bogs out and dies. When I put the spark tester back in line it runs fine, so spark tester and place it runs no spark tester in place and it won’t run any ideas
Make sure that you are using a resistor type spark plug.
@@TheGreasyShopRag don’t think the one I have in is. NGKbpm8y? With the in-line, spark tester, cause it to run OK though
@@TheTrailblazer1974 I don't know if the extra resistance actually changes the timing a bit or if the radio interference caused by non-resistor plugs effects the coil but many times over the years I've just swapped out the incorrect non-resistor plug for the correct resistor plug and made the equipment run better.
Thank you for your help! And that’s one awesome tool box you have built. Keep up the great videos! They are helping guys like me out
What kind of grease are You supposed to use
The official answer is Husqvarna part #503 97
64-01. An unofficial answer might be something like..."Some grease is better than no grease".
So the guy knew what it was and got half way to it and gave up? lol
Thats exactly what happened. When he realized it would take more time he just gave up. People are busy I guess.