Salvage Carbide Tools with Lye | SCIENCE!
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2019
- A kind fellow on the Patron page shared this little trick with me. It's a gooder. Early access to new VJOs / ave
errata: I muddled my reactivity with electronegativity. They are different things. - Věda a technologie
I don't know the first thing about machining but it's nice to hang out in the friend simulator with you thank you
I never thought of it like that. I do have friends!
With a mere hint of shame and dorito dust, I agree.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 The shame comes after you wake up from the bender and notice Dorito dust on your private bits. Yet you weren't the one eating them.
@@d3faulted2 Shame, or but a moment of bewildered pride. S'pose it depends on orientation..
Lol
Chemist here, just to clarify some things about the lye, aluminum, tin and copper.
Aluminum reacts with the lye itself and it's quite fast,hot and vigorous.
Copper and tin do not react with the lye itself. They react with the oxygen dissolved in the water. The lye then dissolves the oxide that forms and exposes the metal beneath, enabling further attack. This happens at a snail's pace compared to the reaction with aluminum.
Iron does not "react with the lye" because the oxide is insoluble in lye, hell some iron oxides are barely soluble in acids too.
Thanks, I just got how "Drano" works! (Aluminum shavings and Lye granules)
Actually, your post jogged my memory about using " naval jelly" to clean aluminum when I was a kid and we had a cottage at the shore and a bunch of small boats. They made several different formulations, one for aluminum, and perhaps a different formula, or two, for ferrous metals and or brass and bronze and Chrome. Anyway, if memory serves, I think the stuff they made for aluminum cleaning was indeed lye, sodium hydroxide, and some kind of jelly like base.
6alecapristrudel What about using gallium? I don’t know if it would damage the carbide or other metals in the tool, but would work damn quick on the aluminum.
@@stewskinner5717 The lye would do it way faster than the gallium. In theory you could use it but in practice it would be a total pain to do.
It would require you to submerge the whole thing in gallium and since it doesn't disrupt the protective oxide film you'd need to scratch every little piece of aluminum for the gallium to get in, this is Al stuck in drill flutes so it's probably not a single solid piece of metal too. The reaction with gallium relies on it diffusing through solid metal, so it's quite slow and it would take days to get all the Al off, with lye it's done in an hour.
As a bonus: the lye constantly disrupts the protective oxide and in addition to the reaction with the hydroxide it actually allows the Al to react with the water itself, kinda like sodium does but slower and not explosive.
"...and it's quite fast,hot and vigorous."
Reminds me of college.
Remember folks; If you're not part of the solution, you are the precipitate.
Legend has it that he is still trying to pick that aluminium away from the tool..
I came to the comments graffiti wall looking for this one. I tip my hat.
Chemistry will though..
I cringed every time the pick was toward the soft parts of hand where the blood containing bits are.
Aluminimum*
@@lyon666 smh
always appreciate a good beaker joke. -Dr. Bunsen Honeydew
How come you didn't write this in Dr Bunsen's voice?
Explain to the less astute and me, please.
@@mikaso Bunsen and beaker were muppets.
@@robhimself79 Cheers!
@@robhimself79 Unfortunately no one will give them a hand.
That pick removed precisely zero aluminum.
It was skin that I thought it would remove first
hahaha yea i was expecting it to just flake off
It's because it ain't made of sodium
How much would it have removed if it had remover 2 aluminums?
You meant to say "removed zero Aluminimum.."
I have no clue about machining, I don't even know how I found this channel. But this is my favorite channel
Have a look for the video about sharpening mower blades, fucking gold!
and try the potato engineering
@@chemicaljuice3078 I came here from Doubleboost with the potato engineering.
My dad died a couple years back, and I miss his chemistry lessons (chemical engineer). This took me right back, like he was talking in my ear. Thanks, AvE.
Just a chemistry note: always add the NaOH to the water not the other way around.
Attaboy!
BAD ADVICE INCOMING: If it's only a little hydroxide and you quickly pour a lot of water on it to absorb the heat it's fine. With the amounts he used it's ok, there was barely any lye in there. BAD ADVICE OVER.
That being said, if you're not a chemist and/or don't know how little really is a little and how much us a lot,
just do it the right way - lye to water, *slowly*, your eyes will thank you.
@@6alecapristrudel When I was in middle school the science teacher made a saturated solution and dropped a feather into it.
@@TheRedneckAtheist I explicitly said _a little_ lye, a saturated solution is about 50% lye by weight. If you plan on making one like that you definitely need to add the lye to the water, very slowly to allow it to cool between additions. If you dump it in all at once it'll boil itself really quickly and blow out of the beaker/whatever vessel you're using. There's not enough thermal mass in the water to keep it from boiling in that case.
Glad someone else caught that
Vinegar is good to have on hand when doing this, will neutralize caustic burns as well as your fluids before they go down the drain.
Yep and it's cheap too. You can even use the cheapest ones (we have Tesco "blue label" vinegar over here and it was something silly like £0.09 per litre last time I got some)- just you have to use more. It's worth having some powdered acids on hand too, that are low toxicity, Tartaric acid springs to mind as that's used in some foods and occurs naturally in some fruits.
Nobody ever told me I have to neutralize my fluids before they go down the drain!
@@staglomagnifico5711
Yeah but I bet your pipes are clean.
@@tubeonline629 So clean there's no pipe left, in fact...
I watched fight club too
I have almost, but not quite entirely, exactly none of the tools AvE reviews how to fix.
yet I watch almost every video.
Now that's some magical science. Not only did it clean up and sharpen that their file. It converted it from a good old American flat file to a fancy dance farmers file.
are you saying he changed files? I couldn't really see very well if there was hatching or not.
@@genewitch switcheroo
He did but he didn't.
finally!!!!!! someone else noticed the switch too!!!
@@MrRandychristian the question is when do you think he switched it?
I love the full nerdgasm, man. The in-depth explainations are great. I hate when trainers/people/creators just gloss over or just ignore the science behind something. Thanks man.
-fellow prospector.
@@lourias I have enough chemistry understanding to follow what he's saying for the most part, but I usually try to read up on what I don't understand.
If my chemistry professor was anything like him, I might have actually enjoyed the classes, my loss because later on I liked it. Thanks AvE, another good one!
Stripped anodized parts with Lye a number of times and it always worked like a charm. Great video once again.
"She's gurgled and chooched until a *minty* state has occurred"
Shoutout and sub to Zip Ties & Bias Plies
I worked at a tool manufacturing/reconditioning shop. We used Muriatic Acid on carbide tools with aluminum build-up. It's a pretty violent reaction but it'll leave your tool squeaky clean.
Did you neutralize the acid on the tools after or just let it sit in muriatic acid until it looked fine? Would that also work for tools like files and sockets?
@@CliffWalrus Usually you'd kept it in the acid until it was free of aluminum, then we'd run it under water really good. 90-95% of the work we did was carbide cutting tools, which the acid had little effect on them.
Now on steel, you had to be careful on the soak time, it would etch the steel body if you left it in long. We'd also rinse them really good afterwards. So yes I don't see why it wouldn't work on sockets or files.
The smell is harsh and the fumes will rust nearby by items. So be safe.
@@CliffWalrus Muriatic (= hydrochloric) acid may rust the file.
This is what we used.
@@mikaso it will only cause rust if you don't neutralize it after. baking soda paste made with a tad bit of water to stop the acid then rinse and dry and apply a small amount of oil to protect from rust
So just wanted to say I love your videos, learn something new every time I watch one. Just curious, what kind of education do you have, you seem super clued up about everything! Very impressed!
I dare say he has the BEST kind of education. Firstly from wise crusty old bastards, and then a self educated one that never stops.
Of course the main, crucial component is that first, you GOT to be fucking interested. Or you'll learn next to fuck all from even the wisest of old geezers.
A decent proper apprenticeship can help one whole fuck ton too, especially when you are young, dumb and full of come. IE interested in other things a little too much. However decent apprenticeships re a much rarer commodity these days. As indeed are the crusty wise old geezers.
Love your videos, have watched prolly 93%, love the whole community you've built :-)
Ave = a supersaturated mix of one-liners and chemical knowledge
Keep dropping the knowledge bombs bub!!!
Back in school, we learned about an alternative to electrolosys, basically recycling pop cans for hydrogen production using lye.
Nile Red called. He wants his chemistry back
I had a big ah ha moment in my understanding of corrosion mechanics when i learned about the Pilling-Bedworth Ratio(PBR), which describes the ratio of the volume of the crystalline lattice of a given alloy to the volume of that of its oxide in a given environment.
metals with a PB ratio around 1 (Aluminum and Lead are both 1.28) form a protective oxide layer; when the ratio is very high or very low, the 'armor' either buckles or becomes porous as it forms, exposing clean base metal.
this explains why cast or wrought iron is more rust-resistant than steel, most of the simple oxides that form on iron have a PBR of 1.7-1.9, while the more complex crystal formed with the addition of Carbon and Silicon give some alloys of steel PBR of 7+.
I'm a ship rigger, and this also helped me understand to me why metals corrode so differently in the marine environment, even when isolated from galvanic action: because of the availability of Sodium ions during oxide formation. especially in 300 series stainless steels, where the incorporation of the sodium ion into the lattice structure tends to cause the normally ideal PBR to become very small, leading to the classic pitting and crevice corrosion once the passive layer is broken and exposed to salt in the air and water, especially when the surface isn't polished to reduce surface area.
Very knowledgable guy with his own hilarious language. Found this Chanel by accident and love the crazy descriptions
Every time you put a pick on that mill, I kept thinking "Get on with it!!!"...
I was waiting patiently for the pick to the thumb trick.
Foiled again....
I love when you nerd out on something like this. I learn so much.
Mi mi mi Beaker, your glaucoma medication doesn't only keeps your vision clear but it also makes you the funniest teacher with common sense on the interweb.
And as someone from the other side of the pond who worked with death tree carcasses I learned a lot from you.
I don't wear wooden shoes and I don't live in a windmill.
It's not so much that the aluminum is acting as a sacrificial anode here: Sodium hydroxide simply doesn't attack iron.
In fact, you can submerge freshly machined steel in a strong sodium hydroxide solution, and not only will it not be attacked, but it won't rust, either.
Well, not strictly true. It forms a corrosion film that, if not washed away or removed, will tend to prevent further corrosion. But if you for instance use it in your pipes repeatedly, each time the layer will get washed away, and eventually you will have no pipe left! Depends on the exact strength and temperature of the solution.
And aluminum dissolves readily in sodium hydroxide with no other material needed as a cathode. If it is coupled to steel though that will protect the steel for the short time the aluminum is still present.
Also a good way to get a stuck aluminum seatpost out of a steel bike frame.
I wish I would've known about this sooner. I dented the seatpost tube in my old bmx frame and I spent hours trying to get that seatpost out so I could fix the dent😂
And a good way to remove an aluminium engine head from a steel sparkplug. Lol
Can take a looong time but definitely works. Persistence and chemistry for the win.
Yeah, I was going to say RJ the bike guy did this awhile ago. Aluminum/Steel joints on bikes suck.
@@terranovnicek1567 I've been there lol. Took me hours to remove a seat post with a hammer and cold chisel.
I wish I would've had a chemistry teacher like you in high school. It would've made class so much more enjoyable, and effective.
Came across this in my recommended after binging This Old Tony. Most beautifully Canadian thing I've ever seen. You've got a new fan.
That SodiumAluminate you were talking about... I think I find that stuff in lawnmower carbs. Looks like a gel when saturated with fuel and thenturns white when dry.
The sodium in ice melting salts reacts with the aluminum weather stripping and thresholds on commercial building entranceways and turns them in to this gel too!
Use a soapstone stick instead of just plain chalk--works better for slowing the files from loading up
WD 40 works perfectly well.
@@JohnJones-cp4wh not when using the file on the lathe....
@EnglertRacing96 us3 cutting wax on it
Smartest set of hands I’ve ever listened to. I dig your videos.
Beaker is my favorite Muppet. Especially now as a grown ass man. He always had the most valuable things to say. Meep!
I was cringing the entire time you were fiddling with the pick!
I can't tell you how many times I have stabbed myself doing the very same thing!
Yup, I have a stab wound on the palm of my right hand right now
At the least, always pick AWAY from the hand.
I feel like he’s doing it on purpose, I like to think so anyway.
Haven't we all!
Stuck one of the "Not to be Operated by f**kwits" sticker in a government bus out here in the sandbox.
Interesting Science work there, I'll have to remember that,Thankyou. On another front, you mentioned Beaker, me,me,me,me. I'm 59, and I do remember that show on TV, all those years ago. I think we're showing our age.
Showed off stickers to the boys what keep the machines chooching at work. They were quite amused :)
Thanks for helping an outsider bond with the important folk. 🖤🖤
Was I the only one worried for your thumbs when you were picking at the aluminium?
I winced every time...
My thumbs are killing me
I could almost feel the inevitable injury
Never put your fingy where you wouldn't put your dingy?
I was prepared to hear some multilingual swearing when he stabbed himself... But I guess that was off camera. Every machinist on here has some sort of a scrape, cut or bruise on their hands some of the time, some have injuries every video. I guess that's how you tell the real machinists
Shoulda bugged out 3 years agooo.... but we love ya!
If I ever encountered an enginerd that is half as knowledgeable as you, he is worth every cent.
"Pink and purple is the difference in grip." -AvE
Love your videos. Wholesome, good content is what gets my jimmies off.
I knew BEEKER before you said it. I am in, bro. All IN.
Why am I screaming to the screen to pick the aluminium out of the bit !? It's like somebody is eating, but just before the take a bite, they start talking again! 😉😂😂😂👍
He knows how to pick at the weaker folk. Seems he's pretty good at it. Lol.
Oh I get it. AvE's in Canada and they play lots of hockey(for some reason, it must be a law). And I just watched a TV show where some hockey fans were yelling "Keep your stick on the ice." Apparently it's a common phrase for hockey players. So AvE twists it around like he does.
BTW, nice chemistry explanation.
I've watched a dozen of his vids and did not know about the haaawkey reference! Thank you!
Shocked and amazed that that your not leaking all over the place after working that pick towards yourself. My shop teacher always said keep the fleshy bits behind the sharp bits.
Good demonstration though.
did you get a new mic? this sounds studio voice over quality
I was thinking the exact same thing. Had my headphones on, when he dropped the tooling I looked down to see what fell.
I was just thinking ‘damn, these new in ear monitors are the nuts!’ . . . Maybe it’s not my new in ears !!
@@ltsnotspill6846 >I looked down to see what fell.
At least we know it weren't your balls.
aliminium is an amphoteric metal so it reacts with other metal compounds so that is why you have classic thermite (it is classic because aliminium and iron oxides are super easy to find)
Can hear you are enjoying your nerdgasm! You explained more chemistry in these 11 minutes, than in the few years of chemistry I had in school, like 14 years ago...
Very nice. Back when B&D had pride in what they made. They are now all plastic junk. I like the aluminum bodied ones and I am careful I am not standing in a puddle if water when using them. I see the junk plastic ones with the 12 inch cord for sale all the time and nobody ever buys them. My favorite 3/8 B&D drill has a aluminum body with ball bearings, not bushing. I admit to owning a few cheap tools. Those are the ones I loan to people. I found out 40 + years ago to never loan good tools to anyone ever. Some day I will send you some pictures of my shop. Thanks again for a trip back in time. As soon as Mr.Peabody fixes his Wayback machine, we are going tool shopping.
Hi AvE, I saw your video, it's very interesting, I'm a chemist and I think you could use wood ash instead of sodium hydroxide 'cause is basically the same, also a little higher temperature could help speed up the process. Greetings from Italy
I knew BEEKER when he was just a test tube.
I've learned so much from watching your channel, big thanks! I use Muriatic acid on my carbide burrs and steel files to dissolve the aluminum. Just be sure to rinse in water afterwards then dry and apply some rust preventative on the files.
I was taught always use the chalk.
Someone once told me that you were supposed to use the chalk during storage so they didn't hurt each other as much when touching, but i was also taught that they just shouldn't be allowed to touch, much less be stored together.
I'll ask my boss to order me some chemicals.
"Why do you need this?"
"I'm making something I saw on the internet." ;-)
Thanks for going full nerd on this one.
Good stuff Mr man !
Got a sweet pack of stickers from the sweat shop in the great north !
Thank you Dingus!
You sir, and Cody'sLab would be phenomenal as a team. At what, i have no idea! Few and far between are the most interesting vajajayos, your stream is appreciated.
Yep. Got it. Beaker.... Muppet reference. Brilliant.
I got it right away, too.
To unstick that aluminum goo,
Toilet bowl cleaner works a treat, too
Gotta have hydrochloric acid in it
Great video as always!! Thanks for sharing with us.
Thanks for the reminder that i slept through chemistry. Lots of good information, great video.
How in the hell did I get here, I may never know, but sure as hell glad i did, subscribed!!
Lye crystals made with domestic and imported "parts".
Canadian labelling laws -- beauty eh.
Learned something new here. Working in a machine shop, if a hogger got clogged it went in the scrap box, put in a new one, indicate in and clamp down.
I have not had any notifications for your videos. The 1 before this was the last I saw. I have had the bell on since last year
Ahhh fook yeahhh.. my stickers just came in... you should make some smaller ones for on the welding helmet!
Would you please just chip off that aluminum booger! It's driving me nuts!
You just prove every video hoe much of a smart ducker you are dAvE. Smart clock lucker. Love learning and watching you're videos.
Aqueous chemistry is not my favorite thing
However, you put this in a way anyone can understand, hats off to you for educating the masses
Well damn.
I got a couple small files that have some stubborn pieces of aluminum stuck in them.
Basically have given up on those ever being really useful again. Guess i gotta go shopping now!
Thanks a lot for this.
Spray with wd40 and take it to some steel. Wd40 and a wire wheel also works. Also works well on carbide burrs. I have cleaned both on a very regular basis where I used to work because people would take them to aluminum all of the time. Spraying files and burrs with wd40 also prevents them from galling in the first place. Works well with bandsaw blades too.
We use a bar of soap at the hyd-mech and bandsaw for aluminum brass copper
@@jonfoley3071 That's a new one. Heard of using water with dish soap in a bandsaw flood coolant system in a pinch. I guess bar soap would work similar to the wax sticks.
Wire brush for carding the file....
@@GunFunZS If it only has a little bit it works but if a 200 lb gorilla uses it until it barely cuts it is so galled up then carding just doesn't cut it. I have a picture on my phone of an endmill that looked almost as bad as on of AVE except the aluminum was smeared on the backside of the flute and not the cutting edge that is held into the Bridgeport with a Jacob's chuck... Translation, some idiot did some slot milling with the spindle running in reverse using a drill chuck instead of a collet. I was rather impressed they didn't break the tool or send the chuck flying across the room. Also forgot to lock my tool box one night and had my carbide burrs looking like balls of aluminum. Also every wheel on 3 different bench grinder on a regular basis. So when I heard something is loaded with aluminum, that is usually what comes to mind.
All I heard was Beaker, with a Canadianese accent😁
I used to soak my carbide table saw blades in lye to remove the gummy resin buildup. It was a tip I learned from an old furniture factory owner I worked in the same building with. The blades cut much better after, just like they were sharpened. We sent our files out to a company that did some kind of electro etching sharpening process to them.
Dad taught me an old machinist trick to run the carbide on a wax candle every so often while you're cutting Alum. that will keep it from wadding up. ported many a manifold out in the garage using that trick.
Don't pick towards your thumb; pick towards your chum!
Funny I worked few years in aerospace as CNC machinist and never clogged up a single tool somehow
AvE just wanted to thank you for the Swag. It made it here all safe and sound. That is even after it has been in the hands of USPS.
I'm at 5:41, and putting on my old chemist's hat...
Aluminum is one of the metals that really wants to be an oxide, really badly - more so than many other metals. When you are looking at the surface of a piece of aluminum alloy, you are looking at a thin layer of aluminum oxide.
So, the hydroxide ions from the lye (caustic, soda sodium hydroxide) readily turn the aluminum atoms into aluminum hydroxide, which is both soluble and a bit of a buffer, being much less caustic (basic) than the sodium hydroxide.
The aluminum atom holds on to electrons much more tightly than does a sodium atom, but still loosely enough to be relatively soluble at a pH greater than 8.
Aluminum hydroxide gets kind of fluffy and lots less soluble when the pH is between 6 and 8, which makes it a neat chemical for water treatment. It's amphoteric - weakly acidic / basic - and it polymerizes in this pH range.
Acid will dissolve aluminum faster than iron, but will take up the iron pretty fast as well, which is why the caustic solution works better than acid for removing galled aluminum from cutting tools.
Anywho, chemistry can be fun when done right...
" That's no Hydroxyelite .....THAT'S my WIFE! " .. - Dexter (Dexter's Laboratory).
Also with gallium, no dihydrogen monoxide required.
When I want to use a burr bit made for steel on aluminum for less aggressive cutting, I jam the spinning burr bit into a (unlit)candle from the dollar store. Any paraffin will work though. This also works on already clogged bits. Just get the bit "clogged" with wax and keep on working. Zero delay, except to go grab the candle. The paraffin unclogs the bits of aluminum very effectively. Only tried this using carbide burr bits in hand held pneumatic die grinders.
More full nerd on the inner workings of the gullets of metals plez. Awesome stuff AvE and thanks again for the infos.
Thanks for the science, AVE. This makes me a pretty fart smeller.
Bugging the shit out of me. First file end, square, second round. Ol switch a roo... I believe the lye. ;)
That beaker joke was gold. I swear it sounds exactly like him- iffen you don't practice, you won't be any good attall. Me thinks you've been practicing a lot.
Nice chemistry lesson, it was a useful course in college to understand what you are talking about but im glad im done with it.
"aluminum" "alum-I-num" "aluminimum" yes just the way its supposed to be said great job!
its actually aluminium.
@@orson091 ik
Just for anyone who does not know the chemistry, at standard RTP (1ATM 22.5C if I remember correctly) about 27G of aluminium will give you just about 33 litres of Hydrogen gas.
...wonders if you could shredded aluminum cans to power a hydrogen car...
@@slateslavens yes but far less efficient than recycling the aluminium.
@@gordonlawrence4749 true that!
@@slateslavens we fill weather ballons this way, usually it works good but sometimes it foams like crazy which fucks everything up
That was awesome. All of it. Thank you! I wanna know so much more from you
I have on occasion turned a bad carbide end mill into a friction stir welding plug... simply by grinding it into a zero flute end mill. Works real well to weld aluminum and not have to worry about flux, DCEP, or wasting acetylene gas trying to figure out why I can't gas weld aluminum no matter what flux I use. Friction stir welding just works if I could somehow rigidly clamp the parts together and run a high speed zero flute end mill through the joint.
Ave, we all know you are not a BS'er, but why is there 2 different files in this vijao without explanation? 2:08 has a flat tip and 3:50 has a curved tip. Just curious.😊
Yea wtf
Was searching the comments to see if anyone else noticed. Kinda surprising how few have.
You can also use lye to unclog your kitchen sink drain.
Yep. I got married, then promptly ordered bulk lye off of Amazon. Our shower drains.
@@GunFunZS uhhhhh are you sure that's why?
also, you can use lye to season soil that has (had) pine trees growing in it, they turn the soil acidic, lye brings the pH back up.
Just a fun little tip I have found to pop out the aluminum out of the the flutes instead of picking at it with something to jam into your off hand . Try your small auto center punch. works like a charm.
I have purchased 80lb sacks of food grade lye and had it delivered to my domecile. No questions asked. Note: I used it to balance the pH of a 1/4 acre pond. PO filled it with horse manuere and put it way out of wack.
Not only do we use chemistry everyday, WE ARE chemistry everyday.
DopetheWind no way?!?!
Odd thought gallium, maybe a alternative idea if not for contamination worries and cost?
You'd have to mechanically break through the oxide layer of every tiny bit of aluminum to let the gallium in, but for those big chunks left over it might be practical.
The ten second explanation for Alumiminimum Oxide was the best explanation. It doesn't change structure much, just turns white and quietly kills your car tires if you have Albuminium wheels. And it's maddening if you can't see it.
AvE workshop stickers arrived and a new vid , today is a good day ^_^