I have a Katana. CV carbs don't run well without the stock air box. In fact they are so sensitive that even a hi-flow filter inside the stock air box has a negative effect. If you can fit your stock air box, put in a stock Suzuki filter, go back to stock jetting and go 2 1/2 turns out on your pilot and it will start without choke, idle smooth and rev out. My Katana is bone stock except for a slip on Yoshi pipe and it runs better than it did from the factory. All the Katanas in around that year were shipped very lean because they were trying to be emission friendly. 2 1/2 turns on the pilot will fatten it up so it runs good at idle. I can tell you for a fact that stock jetting with a slip on works great at my altitude.
Fuel filters will not catch rust from the tank. Those particles are like dust. You need to ditch that tank and run a temporary one to eliminate that. Also check the pod filters are not blocking the vacuum port in the mouth of the carbs. They're k&n so wouldn't think so but worth checking.
I’m going crazy over here get a plastic lawnmower tank just as a troubleshooting tank ! Clean it out !you can do a filter or in-line shut to your carburetors. The reason why your gas is trickling slow rust is jamming up gas flow. It blows my mind you tear those carburetors down how many times now and you run that diarrhea gas. I love your show keep up the good work! You will become a skilled mechanic hopefully soon ,you’ve been doing it for seven years or eight or longer.
buy a multi carb sync tool it will make all the difference in the world you should be able to spin the tires on the road with a blip of the throttle. the tool is cheap. Love the vids Later
Try removing the original (thinner) shims from the jet needles. Something else that's been bothering me since you started this project, it still doesn't sound like all 4 cylinders are firing properly. It'd help diagnose this if you started the engine with only 3 plug wires connected and listened to it run. Try this with each plug wire, running only 3 cylinders each time. This will either identify which cylinder's not doing it's share or it could rule out what I think is going on. I did have one friend that refused to toss his cv carbs and replace them with the mechanical slide carbs. He sent his carbs out to have the air passages which allow the air to flow across the diaphragms, causing vacuum to lift the slides, modified for running without his stock air box. They worked fine for him after that. I don't think this is a problem with the newer cv carbs with only intake and exhaust mods. Keep at it. You'll have it running right soon.
Just a thought, have you considered putting an exhaust pipe on your garage? It would help with running the machines inside the garage longer before it becomes hard to breathe from the fumes. My grandparents used to have one for warming their car up when they would have to go out in the morning. They put theirs in the door, they made a hole and put two pieces of stainless steel on either side of the door and made a silicone gasket around the pipe in the door. They were able to take the pipe out when not needed as to not interfere with the door going up or down. Just a thought!
not sure on the carbs but you really need to sort the shifter out. maybe remove the old shims as you have doubled the increment in between clip positions. looks like it’s a really fine tuned kit..... but there’s obviously something else afoot
You need to run a peice of pvc pipe between the carb and pod filter to get the pressure correct.this is a common fix for cv carbs and pods.then play with jetting. The pvc pipe give the restriction needed acts like the airboxyou want the pvc pipe to be about 4 inches long.
Maybe try some old socks or foam over the pod filters to restrict slightly. Did that with the air cooled gsxr750 They need restriction to operate normal. Also that one carb with the stuck main. I’m sure if the main assembly turns it’s gonna be losing vacuum or sucking in fuel past the main maybe.
Hey bro what's the year on 750 because I have a 1992 GSX-R 600 It's doing this same thing but I'm just running the stock rubber velocity stacks out of stock air box.
I had a 1980 cb750 I took air box off and put pods it was a bad idea. Those air boxes where designed just right for those bikes. I put stock air box back on
Need to synchronize the carbs man. Put some new plugs in and put 93 octane in that cleaned out tank. Oh yeah, put a smaller sprocket on the back. Then hang on for dear life.
I do like foam filters way better but thats not your problem. I personally think you need to play with the needle height...and try going down one size on the main jet. I can hear it breaking up when you get about mid throttle. Leave pilot where its at. I'm no pro but I do have a 300ex w/ a kz650 four cylinder. I have a shitty vid on my channel if you want to check it out. Those carbs are a pain to get right ...but when it is right they'rrr great.👍🏼 Keep getting at it Joe...you'll find it.
at 33:00 i had the big chees on my face i knew by the sound that it was blowing all the trash out the carbs and after that its your own custom feel and the bogging stopping kinda liberates you you feel a sense of accomplishment
I think u could prob go back to the jets that were in it. Your problem is def the fuel flow. If you will notice it runs good when you first fire it up and as u ride the worse it gets. Its sucking the bowls dry of fuel before it can re fill them. Take the tank of and clean the crap out of everything and let the quad sit for about 5 mins with the fuel turned on before u tear out on it after u get the tank clean to let the bowls fill up.
If your jetting is wrong it will definitely give you attitude under load but seem fine in nuetral or with the clutch in. Its hard to get it right but you'll get it!
Raise mainjet size 2 sizes, raise needles up with small thin washers and drill out the vacuum bleed hole ever so slightly. It will run just fine, have done jetting myself many times on bike engines with pod filters in the past with good results. Also open your idle mixture screws about 1/2 to 1 extra turn with engine running. Oh, and SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS!!!!!!!!!!
I was thinking a temperamental CDI, but it got better as it warmed up. Probably what others are saying...dirty gas and fuel flow restrictions through either petcock screen or fuel filter.
Nice video. Keep up the good work. Probably something simple. Usually is. Maybe time to punt this one on down the road. Didn’t notice you adjusting the idle air screws. Sometimes the factory recommended defaults can be off by a full turn or more.
I combination of rust cdi and add a ground strap from engine cdi and coil use some black wire and ring terminal also put some pj's on jeans 3 t shirts and a hoodie and some boots man you probably won't die if you crash at 100 mph but road rash is no joke .
You need to adjust the mixture screw on each carb, as well as measure intake vacuum on each carb to balance adjust them so the slides open at the same time. I’ve found that a dyno jet emulsion tubes with yoshimura needles and mikuni jets worked the best on my 1994 gsxr 750 that combo made it smooth. I was able to get just shy of 145hp at the rear wheel with the stock gearing top was 158 mph. I used a dyno to tune the engine. That way I had hp and torque curves to make sure there were no bumps on the power curves. But you really don’t need a dyno to adjust it.
Take that tank off throw some bolts in it bungee cord to your truck tire Jack it up and put it in drive for about 20 minutes and that should clean the inside of that tank out pretty good
Those style carbs also don’t like a pod filter like that. You should run a UNI filter on there. The turbulent air from the K&N style pod filters messes with the diaphragm inside the carb and makes them break up. The UNI filter gives smoother air flow and they run much better. Dealt with it on my Yamaha xs650. Also make sure the carbs are synched right otherwise it’ll never run 100% and you’ll be having all sort of weird issues.
You need to get some white vinegar 100% and a pack of the copper BB's put the vinegar and bbs in the tank and tank the hell out of it. Do it again and again until it's better
when you remove the tank check the fuel tap for a built in filter . hope this helps, im putting a 550 cc xj yamaha in a quad but taking it completly out of the bike frame and mounting it to the quad , keep going mate . Mal
To fix the carb operation you modify the carb slide air bleed hole. All you need is a small drill bit. Dont recall for certain without checking but think its a 7/32.
Looks like you have suction side of the petcock blocked off with zip ties. Hook that line to suction side of carburetors. That pulses the fuel pump inside the petcock and delivers fuel flow into the carbs correctly. I may be wrong but some cv's work this way and can cause alot of headaches.
@@2vintage you've got it pretty good. Try Living in Canada and paying more then the item is worth in shipping and waiting a month for it to show up. I wish I lived in the good ol' U S of A.
The FIRST fuel filter was not on proper. Smaller section should be on "top" and wider section closer to carburetor(bottom). There should be an arrow that indicates direction of flow. Fuel tank/petcock must be cleaned as well.
get some rust remover like Evapo-Rust stick it in the tank for a day or two turning the tank a few times over the process and giving it a shake then empty the tank of the rust remover and rust then clean the debris out of the tank with petrol or alcohol not water as you will get flash rusting of the fresh clean metal which is not good then once you have done that use a tank sealer like POR15 Fuel Car / Bike (Motorcycle) Tank Repair Sealer as that's the one I use but any similar sealer will do as that's the only way to repair a rusty tank.
I ran into this same running issue on my Kawasaki and ended up cutting out the rubber lip on the inside of each pod filter so it's not blocking the port holes on the carbs. Also I used the foam UNI filters and put a strip of gorilla tape about halfway around and then took my Covid cloth wrap around mask and stretched it around all 4 filters to further restrict. It sounds hack but after all this experimenting mine actually runs a whole lot better. Funny story to tell if anything
She definitely has more potential. That gas and flow looks real bad. You're doing good work on it so far though just needs more dialing in man. Keep at it.
hello it will never run right till you at least get rid of the rust your just clogging up the carbs can you put your gopro on the frame pointing at the carbs that record then watch the footage that will tell if the slides are going up it might not hit 100 because of the gearing remember street bikes have high gearing for speed keep up the good work
I am dealing with the exact sameproblem with my kz650. Headers pods and baffled tip and having exactly same rezults as your is. It also has the same carbs and was vacuum fed as well. I even tried taping off most of the pod to eliminate air and struggling to get max output.
i would say return to stock block off the to lines from top of middle carbs i think they are vacuume lines check the rubber boots do not block any ports on the carbs intake and try rapping insulation tape around the pods till you feel it inprove or become worse
the problem with cv carbs is they need the restriction created by the filter to keep the correct air flow the for venturi to draw the air to alter the dighpram to lift the slider if any of this is out of sync it will not rev correctly in having the larger jets you have allowed more fuel but the slider system will not work as it should so is unable to respond to keep the fuel air mix in the right range
The engine is stock isn't it? Stage 4 is for "highly modified engines that also have the pod filters and 4 into 1 exhaust. If the intake and exhaust are the only changes, you might have jetted the carbs too rich. I used to use 120 mains in our KZ650s with intake and exhaust mods as well as mild drag/street cams. I believe the original jet needle shims must come off and the new ones installed in their place. Never had to use shims for the needles myself, but I never used CV carbs. I always used mechanical slide carbs.
Hey Joe, my old GS has the same carburetors on it and you're right about the Box metering the air intake if you're going to run pods just put a foam overlay on them and that will starve them a little more to open up your slides
Also the sock filter in the tank is probably clogged. That tank probably needs a good cleaning with some acid base maybe even vinegar. And then seal the tank, I myself use redkote available at O'Reilly's it works great and it's fairly inexpensive. The guy that had the bike before me and beforehand even had the carburetors rebuilt three different times before finding out that the rust caused all the problems. Filters do not take care of rust actually the sock in the tank works better than the stock filters. The thing to do though is to get rid of the rust and seal the tank good luck Joe I know you'll get it. Many blessings to you and your family.
@@2vintage no I didn't have to rejet the carburetors because the motor was stock and the exhaust is stock too I just got sick of the airbox so I switched to the Pod filters. They came with a foam cover which you could use or not use I did because it was running too lean when I looked at the plugs and I was having to run the choke a little bit. Can't remember the name of the filters but I found them on eBay. Even the stock filter that goes in the Box had a foam wrap around on it too crazy huh.
add an airbox. no airbox will change how the machine runs pretty dramatically imo they like to have a bit of "spare" air to grab that is not blowing by them at 60mph also since there is 4 carbs they would not all be getting the same amount of air as it i can geruntee you that the outside 2 will be getting more than the inner ones with pods or just nothing over them the airbox evens out the amount of air each carb will get and also adds a bit of positive pressure instead of negative pressure. sinse they are backwards the air will naturally want to be pulled out of them when you are moving, doesn't even have to be a stock one just something to stabilize the air that's getting delivered to them. can also try gearing the machine lower in general to put less load on the engine try a bigger rear sprocket or smaller front.
also i would recommend letting a couple litres of acetone soak in the gas tank over night that stuff will disolve any rust that is in there. and one more thing the choke restricts air and adds fuel therefor it will make it run worse at operating temps your issue is air not fuel
Take the tank off and fill with some nuts and bolts with some muriatic acid. Shake it around let sit for a couple hrs and reshake again. let sit a bit longer rinse and it should come out much cleaner. Don't forget to clean out the petcock.
you did exactly what i said do in this video form the last cleaning the carbs and jets bogging like it did last vid is caused by incorrect air flow or incorrect fuel flow
My bike does the same. It does not want to rev out under load but without any it does like it should. Mine has a too small carb and gets realy rich at high rpm. Yours probably also has this not enough air flow problem.
Not enough fuel flow to the carbs under load. should be an air line to the petcock and 2 feed lines to the carbs and you have only 1 feed line going to them from the tank. Look up the oem fuel line routing from the petcock
Just watched a video from Gold guy not long ago he had the same issue with his gs850 check out the vid. I own a bunch of cb400t Honda's they use cv carbs and I have had great success with this method
Man about time some one listens lol. But what does it take to get that stock air box. But u can possibly trim that little lip around the pod filters. Bc u are still blocking that Venturi a bit. I’m telling I did that once and didn’t realize that that was the issue it ran like shit. I put my stock box back and ran amazing. That 4:1 header is fine. Some katana came with a 4:1. Actually I think most did. If it did have a 2:1 it was just an x pipe that turned the 4:1 into a dual pipe setup. Oh and them carbs have to be synced too
There aren't many men, who can tune those carbs (stock) to work properly, let alone stage 3-4 conversion. Best bet is to return back to stock with stock air filter.
Please LIKE and SUBSCRIBE if you enjoyed the video! It really helps me out a lot!
Check out my Instagram: 2_vintage_
Thank you for all the support!
What is your next video
Can I have the link to that website you used for the jetting
@@lucadonorio1815 yeah ill try and find it
@@2vintage ok thanks!
@@lucadonorio1815 www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/blogs/blog/how-to-rejet-your-cafe-racer-carburetor/
Try foam pod filters. The vacuum slides need more restriction to open the slides completely.
true
I have a Katana. CV carbs don't run well without the stock air box. In fact they are so sensitive that even a hi-flow filter inside the stock air box has a negative effect. If you can fit your stock air box, put in a stock Suzuki filter, go back to stock jetting and go 2 1/2 turns out on your pilot and it will start without choke, idle smooth and rev out. My Katana is bone stock except for a slip on Yoshi pipe and it runs better than it did from the factory. All the Katanas in around that year were shipped very lean because they were trying to be emission friendly. 2 1/2 turns on the pilot will fatten it up so it runs good at idle. I can tell you for a fact that stock jetting with a slip on works great at my altitude.
Fuel filters will not catch rust from the tank. Those particles are like dust. You need to ditch that tank and run a temporary one to eliminate that. Also check the pod filters are not blocking the vacuum port in the mouth of the carbs. They're k&n so wouldn't think so but worth checking.
He knows what he’s doing bud
@@2vintageDeamonFan everyone can benefit from advice .
I think he did that in the first video with this machine ...
Hey they trust paper dust masks for your health it’s gotta be good enough for carbs 🤣🤣🤣
@@ni_wink84 From experience and by the look of that brown fuel clearly not 😁
Those carbs need to be synced
Wow! My boyfriend is actually the one who started this project. Really cool to see it come to life! Glad you had some fun with it!!!
I’m going crazy over here get a plastic lawnmower tank just as a troubleshooting tank ! Clean it out !you can do a filter or in-line shut to your carburetors. The reason why your gas is trickling slow rust is jamming up gas flow. It blows my mind you tear those carburetors down how many times now and you run that diarrhea gas. I love your show keep up the good work! You will become a skilled mechanic hopefully soon ,you’ve been doing it for seven years or eight or longer.
buy a multi carb sync tool it will make all the difference in the world you should be able to spin the tires on the road with a blip of the throttle.
the tool is cheap.
Love the vids
Later
Try removing the original (thinner) shims from the jet needles. Something else that's been bothering me since you started this project, it still doesn't sound like all 4 cylinders are firing properly. It'd help diagnose this if you started the engine with only 3 plug wires connected and listened to it run. Try this with each plug wire, running only 3 cylinders each time. This will either identify which cylinder's not doing it's share or it could rule out what I think is going on. I did have one friend that refused to toss his cv carbs and replace them with the mechanical slide carbs. He sent his carbs out to have the air passages which allow the air to flow across the diaphragms, causing vacuum to lift the slides, modified for running without his stock air box. They worked fine for him after that. I don't think this is a problem with the newer cv carbs with only intake and exhaust mods. Keep at it. You'll have it running right soon.
Just a thought, have you considered putting an exhaust pipe on your garage? It would help with running the machines inside the garage longer before it becomes hard to breathe from the fumes. My grandparents used to have one for warming their car up when they would have to go out in the morning. They put theirs in the door, they made a hole and put two pieces of stainless steel on either side of the door and made a silicone gasket around the pipe in the door. They were able to take the pipe out when not needed as to not interfere with the door going up or down. Just a thought!
She's starving, FEED HER!
not sure on the carbs but you really need to sort the shifter out. maybe remove the old shims as you have doubled the increment in between clip positions. looks like it’s a really fine tuned kit..... but there’s obviously something else afoot
You need to run a peice of pvc pipe between the carb and pod filter to get the pressure correct.this is a common fix for cv carbs and pods.then play with jetting. The pvc pipe give the restriction needed acts like the airboxyou want the pvc pipe to be about 4 inches long.
Hey Joe, the more multi cylinder bikes you work on the more invaluable you'll find a carb synchronizer to be.
Maybe try some old socks or foam over the pod filters to restrict slightly. Did that with the air cooled gsxr750 They need restriction to operate normal. Also that one carb with the stuck main. I’m sure if the main assembly turns it’s gonna be losing vacuum or sucking in fuel past the main maybe.
Hey bro what's the year on 750 because I have a 1992 GSX-R 600 It's doing this same thing but I'm just running the stock rubber velocity stacks out of stock air box.
I had a 1980 cb750 I took air box off and put pods it was a bad idea. Those air boxes where designed just right for those bikes. I put stock air box back on
Need to synchronize the carbs man.
Put some new plugs in and put 93 octane in that cleaned out tank. Oh yeah, put a smaller sprocket on the back.
Then hang on for dear life.
Nothing sadder than locking up a beast. I would not hesitate to slam the throttle I'm not afraid to but this guy is.
I do like foam filters way better but thats not your problem. I personally think you need to play with the needle height...and try going down one size on the main jet. I can hear it breaking up when you get about mid throttle. Leave pilot where its at. I'm no pro but I do have a 300ex w/ a kz650 four cylinder. I have a shitty vid on my channel if you want to check it out. Those carbs are a pain to get right ...but when it is right they'rrr great.👍🏼 Keep getting at it Joe...you'll find it.
That thing is crazy man nice work getting back
Know put some paddles on it and ride it in the dunes. That will be an interesting story🍻
Yes!!!
It's not gonna last too long with those pod filters lol
Yeah what fullmetaljaket said. Lol I wouldn't do to much off roading with this setup
Open intake in the dunes (pure sand + Motor) means total obliteration
Well it will be fun while it last😂😂
Remember you have a cylinder that's still stock jetting , you need a carb cyncronizing gauges to make sure those carbs are tuned properly
Right on Larry, definitely need a synchronizer.
@@domcycled3504 street bikes are a mush to sync carbs
at 33:00 i had the big chees on my face i knew by the sound that it was blowing all the trash out the carbs and after that its your own custom feel and the bogging stopping kinda liberates you you feel a sense of accomplishment
That thing sounds crazy!
Luv you 2vintage. This video just made my day. U are my favorite CZcamsr.
Clean the tank again & try to do something with the shifter and bet she will fly, that should blow by 100 MPH easy
I think u could prob go back to the jets that were in it. Your problem is def the fuel flow. If you will notice it runs good when you first fire it up and as u ride the worse it gets. Its sucking the bowls dry of fuel before it can re fill them. Take the tank of and clean the crap out of everything and let the quad sit for about 5 mins with the fuel turned on before u tear out on it after u get the tank clean to let the bowls fill up.
I was just thinking abt this series
Awesome video man & you'll get it going keep up the good work
Great video joe start using the pressure washer and wash the bikes you get lol
If your jetting is wrong it will definitely give you attitude under load but seem fine in nuetral or with the clutch in. Its hard to get it right but you'll get it!
This has been a cool series to watch. Try looking at your spark plugs. They should give a good indicator whether to rich or too lean.
I will have to do that
Yup. I bet they're wet with fuel.
@@brainstain22 brobably
Raise mainjet size 2 sizes, raise needles up with small thin washers and drill out the vacuum bleed hole ever so slightly. It will run just fine, have done jetting myself many times on bike engines with pod filters in the past with good results. Also open your idle mixture screws about 1/2 to 1 extra turn with engine running.
Oh, and SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS!!!!!!!!!!
I was thinking a temperamental CDI, but it got better as it warmed up. Probably what others are saying...dirty gas and fuel flow restrictions through either petcock screen or fuel filter.
And AGAIN i must ask , did you sync the carbs? Thats a must do with multiple carbs.
That run near the end sounded good
You need to fill up the tank with fresh hi octain fuel.......
Then set lite too it.!!!
Nice video. Keep up the good work. Probably something simple. Usually is. Maybe time to punt this one on down the road. Didn’t notice you adjusting the idle air screws. Sometimes the factory recommended defaults can be off by a full turn or more.
I combination of rust cdi and add a ground strap from engine cdi and coil use some black wire and ring terminal also put some pj's on jeans 3 t shirts and a hoodie and some boots man you probably won't die if you crash at 100 mph but road rash is no joke .
Your fuel petcock is clogged big time clean it it’s not getting enough fuel flow
Good job 2V sounds really good
That thing looks terrifying at 70, I can't imagine faster!
You need to adjust the mixture screw on each carb, as well as measure intake vacuum on each carb to balance adjust them so the slides open at the same time. I’ve found that a dyno jet emulsion tubes with yoshimura needles and mikuni jets worked the best on my 1994 gsxr 750 that combo made it smooth. I was able to get just shy of 145hp at the rear wheel with the stock gearing top was 158 mph. I used a dyno to tune the engine. That way I had hp and torque curves to make sure there were no bumps on the power curves. But you really don’t need a dyno to adjust it.
Take that tank off throw some bolts in it bungee cord to your truck tire Jack it up and put it in drive for about 20 minutes and that should clean the inside of that tank out pretty good
Those style carbs also don’t like a pod filter like that. You should run a UNI filter on there. The turbulent air from the K&N style pod filters messes with the diaphragm inside the carb and makes them break up. The UNI filter gives smoother air flow and they run much better. Dealt with it on my Yamaha xs650. Also make sure the carbs are synched right otherwise it’ll never run 100% and you’ll be having all sort of weird issues.
You need to get some white vinegar 100% and a pack of the copper BB's put the vinegar and bbs in the tank and tank the hell out of it. Do it again and again until it's better
when you remove the tank check the fuel tap for a built in filter . hope this helps, im putting a 550 cc xj yamaha in a quad but taking it completly out of the bike frame and mounting it to the quad , keep going mate . Mal
To fix the carb operation you modify the carb slide air bleed hole. All you need is a small drill bit. Dont recall for certain without checking but think its a 7/32.
Check the vacuum diagrams on top of carbs, they can be torn from age, causing a air leak
Wow be careful buddy! That thing at high speed is awesome!
CV carbs need appropriate resistance at the airbox to operate properly.
Looks like you have suction side of the petcock blocked off with zip ties. Hook that line to suction side of carburetors. That pulses the fuel pump inside the petcock and delivers fuel flow into the carbs correctly. I may be wrong but some cv's work this way and can cause alot of headaches.
That's just another fuel flow line. This tank is from a different Katana that had 2 inlets for fuel lines to go.
where the yellow pipe is between the 2 middle carbs i belive that should be open for a bowl breather
Just finished and I can say I feel your pain waiting for parts. It takes forever
Yeah it sucks
@@2vintage you've got it pretty good. Try Living in Canada and paying more then the item is worth in shipping and waiting a month for it to show up. I wish I lived in the good ol' U S of A.
I would try to take one of the needle spacers out. The picture showed one installed. Then maybe you can put the filters back on
The spacer just lifts the needle up more. Only effects idle to 1/4,throttle I think.
@@Dm-cr5lk good point!
@@Dm-cr5lk i would still try it since that's on the main jet
That looked fast man
It sounds really good
Could u also give us a race between the predator and outlaw
I think maybe the preddy is gone.
The FIRST fuel filter was not on proper. Smaller section should be on "top" and wider section closer to carburetor(bottom). There should be an arrow that indicates direction of flow. Fuel tank/petcock must be cleaned as well.
Dasani that fuel is nasty
Mad Max called...he wants his quad back
get some rust remover like Evapo-Rust stick it in the tank for a day or two turning the tank a few times over the process and giving it a shake then empty the tank of the rust remover and rust then clean the debris out of the tank with petrol or alcohol not water as you will get flash rusting of the fresh clean metal which is not good then once you have done that use a tank sealer like POR15 Fuel Car / Bike (Motorcycle) Tank Repair Sealer as that's the one I use but any similar sealer will do as that's the only way to repair a rusty tank.
I ran into this same running issue on my Kawasaki and ended up cutting out the rubber lip on the inside of each pod filter so it's not blocking the port holes on the carbs. Also I used the foam UNI filters and put a strip of gorilla tape about halfway around and then took my Covid cloth wrap around mask and stretched it around all 4 filters to further restrict. It sounds hack but after all this experimenting mine actually runs a whole lot better. Funny story to tell if anything
lol I might have to try something similar to this
She definitely has more potential. That gas and flow looks real bad. You're doing good work on it so far though just needs more dialing in man. Keep at it.
Up a size in Jett's sounds like it is poppin on full throttle
hello it will never run right till you at least get rid of the rust your just clogging up the carbs can you put your gopro on the frame pointing at the carbs that record then watch the footage that will tell if the slides are going up it might not hit 100 because of the gearing remember street bikes have high gearing for speed keep up the good work
Have you synced the carbs?
This would DEFINITELY help. But need to get jetting right first.
I said same thing a few videos ago. And not so much jetting as is the slide air bleed holes not allowing the slide to open.
I can’t believe he’s using that tank with that nasty ass gas. If you know you have a rusty tank and rusty gas why not get a temporary tank.
🤡
I am dealing with the exact sameproblem with my kz650. Headers pods and baffled tip and having exactly same rezults as your is. It also has the same carbs and was vacuum fed as well. I even tried taping off most of the pod to eliminate air and struggling to get max output.
It's a real pain. i think that only option is to do the stock air box but i cant make it fit.
Old Revit to the mooner!!!!!!!! Lol
i would say return to stock block off the to lines from top of middle carbs i think they are vacuume lines check the rubber boots do not block any ports on the carbs intake and try rapping insulation tape around the pods till you feel it inprove or become worse
Definitely need to clean or change out that gas tank
Haha joe, you have to be the worst gear changer ever, love the vids
the problem with cv carbs is they need the restriction created by the filter to keep the correct air flow the for venturi to draw the air to alter the dighpram to lift the slider if any of this is out of sync it will not rev correctly in having the larger jets you have allowed more fuel but the slider system will not work as it should so is unable to respond to keep the fuel air mix in the right range
using empty tea bag bags in the filters works I've heard
The engine is stock isn't it? Stage 4 is for "highly modified engines that also have the pod filters and 4 into 1 exhaust. If the intake and exhaust are the only changes, you might have jetted the carbs too rich. I used to use 120 mains in our KZ650s with intake and exhaust mods as well as mild drag/street cams. I believe the original jet needle shims must come off and the new ones installed in their place. Never had to use shims for the needles myself, but I never used CV carbs. I always used mechanical slide carbs.
Hey Joe, my old GS has the same carburetors on it and you're right about the Box metering the air intake if you're going to run pods just put a foam overlay on them and that will starve them a little more to open up your slides
Did you ever run pods on it?
@@2vintage Hey Joe, yes as a matter of fact I do still run pods on it with the foam overlays. It is a 1982 GS G in mint condition only 8000 Miles.
Also the sock filter in the tank is probably clogged. That tank probably needs a good cleaning with some acid base maybe even vinegar. And then seal the tank, I myself use redkote available at O'Reilly's it works great and it's fairly inexpensive. The guy that had the bike before me and beforehand even had the carburetors rebuilt three different times before finding out that the rust caused all the problems. Filters do not take care of rust actually the sock in the tank works better than the stock filters. The thing to do though is to get rid of the rust and seal the tank good luck Joe I know you'll get it. Many blessings to you and your family.
@@MakinEndsMeet69 okay did you have rejet the carbs at all? Also what foam covers did you buy?
@@2vintage no I didn't have to rejet the carburetors because the motor was stock and the exhaust is stock too I just got sick of the airbox so I switched to the Pod filters. They came with a foam cover which you could use or not use I did because it was running too lean when I looked at the plugs and I was having to run the choke a little bit. Can't remember the name of the filters but I found them on eBay. Even the stock filter that goes in the Box had a foam wrap around on it too crazy huh.
Thing is wicked, I'd personally love to see you customize this thing right, and make it safe for those high speeds.
do a race custom yamaha banshee vs kawazaki tecate 4 or a qudzilla
Still need to synchronize the carbs, it makes a world of difference
Rust in the tank !! No good..plus, i would lose that muffler n try it..could be why its not revvin out up high..just my 2 cents...😃👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That's a good suggestion. I'll try without the muffler. Going to be a little loud haha
add an airbox. no airbox will change how the machine runs pretty dramatically imo they like to have a bit of "spare" air to grab that is not blowing by them at 60mph also since there is 4 carbs they would not all be getting the same amount of air as it i can geruntee you that the outside 2 will be getting more than the inner ones with pods or just nothing over them the airbox evens out the amount of air each carb will get and also adds a bit of positive pressure instead of negative pressure. sinse they are backwards the air will naturally want to be pulled out of them when you are moving, doesn't even have to be a stock one just something to stabilize the air that's getting delivered to them. can also try gearing the machine lower in general to put less load on the engine try a bigger rear sprocket or smaller front.
also i would recommend letting a couple litres of acetone soak in the gas tank over night that stuff will disolve any rust that is in there. and one more thing the choke restricts air and adds fuel therefor it will make it run worse at operating temps your issue is air not fuel
A carb sync tool would help a lot!
I suggest you get the right filter that matches the jetting
Try grabbing that spinning tube with channel locks and turn that jet out
This thing is a death trap 😂
Take the tank off and fill with some nuts and bolts with some muriatic acid. Shake it around let sit for a couple hrs and reshake again. let sit a bit longer rinse and it should come out much cleaner. Don't forget to clean out the petcock.
The inside lip of the pod filters are blocking the oval port that let's the air in for the slides.
you did exactly what i said do in this video form the last cleaning the carbs and jets bogging like it did last vid is caused by incorrect air flow or incorrect fuel flow
My bike does the same. It does not want to rev out under load but without any it does like it should. Mine has a too small carb and gets realy rich at high rpm. Yours probably also has this not enough air flow problem.
Now that sounds better🙂
Awsome 👍
The way you ride it will never see 80!
You should try to used some V and use only 2 biggers carb!
Not enough fuel flow to the carbs under load. should be an air line to the petcock and 2 feed lines to the carbs and you have only 1 feed line going to them from the tank. Look up the oem fuel line routing from the petcock
Just watched a video from Gold guy not long ago he had the same issue with his gs850 check out the vid. I own a bunch of cb400t Honda's they use cv carbs and I have had great success with this method
Man about time some one listens lol. But what does it take to get that stock air box. But u can possibly trim that little lip around the pod filters. Bc u are still blocking that Venturi a bit. I’m telling I did that once and didn’t realize that that was the issue it ran like shit. I put my stock box back and ran amazing. That 4:1 header is fine. Some katana came with a 4:1. Actually I think most did. If it did have a 2:1 it was just an x pipe that turned the 4:1 into a dual pipe setup. Oh and them carbs have to be synced too
wrap the pods with coffee filters and a rubber band
Awesome! It would be a whole lot better if you fixed the gear shifter too, I think ...
Yeah I have to do that
Title should be tuning a death machine
There aren't many men, who can tune those carbs (stock) to work properly, let alone stage 3-4 conversion.
Best bet is to return back to stock with stock air filter.
I would if I could. The stock air filter box won't fit.