Yes, if you use 4 small cotter pins the chain link pins will rotate and wear the cotter pins out.The chain will exit the tractor at an inappropriate moment (like when it's 100 degrees and you really want to get some hay raked) and more often than not tear off you're brand new ground speed gauge drive. So move the engine forward and use the long cotter pin and don't cut corners. 😀 Dont ask how I know. 🙄
I never knew about Maibach's extended sprocket. That's a great idea. Although, knowing them, that doesn't surprise me at all. Another great video for the archives! Thanks for sharing! The maintenance/repair videos are such an awesome resource to capture for future Oliver wrenchers!
Guess I should have looked into some kind of product placement deal with them. Lol We got the steering motor bracket from them as well, although that did need some tweaking to fit right.
Thanks for bringing us along Chris. I’ve gone back into your archives a couple times to see what I was getting into. There is always something that needs a little fix’in when they have been in service this long, we are still running strictly Oliver / White tractors.
Thanks Chris, I have been waiting for this chain coupler class. Now to see if I have two 1/2 bolts and two 9/16 bolts in the correct places and the threaded hole under the pan of my 1750 with the jam nut to set the height. You da man.
Great video Chris, had mine fly off the 1855 couple times and take out the speedometer cable with it. Not much fun trying to put the new one on laying on your back in the middle of a chisel plowed field. Keep the repair video's coming!
Thanks Chris didn't know about the extra long rear coupler option boy that would have saved me some time and aggravation I have put a couple of input shafts in over those splines being worn out.
SO glad i saw this video my neighbor just got an 1850 and wants to pull the engine to do overhaul so i guess we should def look to that too since it would be a good time
New to Oliver and I've got a big growling noise/vibration in direct and over on a 1755 diesel. I ordered a new chain and plan on aligning it properly. I am very thankful for this video as I cannot find any alignment instructions in the factory service manual or I&T manual. Thank you for posting this!!
I've changed a few of these out in the field, and it is no fun. Also, if you ever had the engine out, never mix up or lose the shims if any, under the engine mounts.
Thank you for the video! Dad has a 1800 C with hydra power that started making noise. We assumed its a bearing inside the hydra power, but have just parked it until we get around to working on it. Now I want to look at this chain to check on its condition. I have never had any issues with this chain in the past on any in our neighborhood, but there is always a first.
Excellent video keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍I was doing that same thing today on a customers 1650 diesel oliver it doesn't have a over under or hydra power were some built that way there is lots of room to work in there with out the extra transmission
our Massey 101jr had a chain too I don't remember if it had pins or just an old piece of wire or what direction the pins were put back in by a 14 year old not even an armature grease monkey yet but I replaced what I took out and the new clutch worked just fine. Oh I am 71 now. Thank you Lord.
I always found it amazing when the weather was 70 degrees and it broke under a shade tree the customer usually could replace it themselves. Zero degrees, or 100 degrees, or buried in mud, or covered in manure, we always made a service call. I used to stock one of that number in a drawer of my truck toolbox. It was amazing at how many ones would find that was totally worn out but still going. You brought back many memories and I remembered that part number before you showed the box. BTW, that was cheating doing it without the fuel tank and everything in place. Tee Hee
I had put one in a customer's 1755, then a month or so later it threw it. I stood in the manure of a dairy feed lot to put it back on, to find out they had taken it to someone else for a clutch job after I had worked on it. The sprockets were NOT lined up. Always nice cleaning up someone else's mess. Lol
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Bet all of us old wrench twisters could colaborate on a book about memorable crappy repair jobs in even crappier places. One of my favorites was when a customer would be banging on your door at 6:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning wanting you to go into the dealership to get some part and then you found out it broke last Wednesday. Can you say their next repair job had a little higher labor rate?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Then there is the opposite side, when you have a Good customer who was faithful to you over the years go out in his machine shed and hang himself because some big farming operation rented a major part of his ground out from under him. That one made us very sad because we would have gladly have helped him sell his equipment with no commission if we did not have any idea where he could have picked up some more ground. We always had the policy that if a farmer passed away and he had some small debts on our books we would send the widow a statement for $0.00. So you wrote off a couple hundred on parts, somehow the word would get around (not from us) and it would come back in the family and friends stopping in when they needed a new plow or something else.
Unless I'm remembering wrong, didn't Oliver sell a "chain coupler grease"? I've had good luck keeping them schmeared with grease. Sometimes when they would let loose the chain could whack an oil line fitting on the over/under.
I remember removing and replacing those chain couplers sometimes they made a lot of racket so I dumped oil on them. Real pain in behind. My 2255 used a different type of coupler it was much easier.
My 1755 the chain coupler isn’t align and about once every 6 months the cotter pins break or end up coming out can I leave the chain on and align it using the bolt under the tractor without loosening the motor mount bolts?
Yes. If you have the correct motor bolts, the side to side should be right. Adjust the bolt in the frame for the up and down, but there's no need to loosen the engine bolts.
The initial idea was it allowed for a larger range of tolerances in machining the frames. It worked well enough, but once they started getting over 100 hp, they did come up with something better.
Another greatly helpful video, thank you! My Dad is gone so I'll pose this question for you to answer- I've got an 1800B like Dad had. I looked in the operators manual for lubrication of the chain coupler and found nothing. Due to dust and such I know that you want to run some chains dry. Does this apply to the chain coupler or should it be oiled?
I've always left them dry. I 've heard of some guys oiling them. There's a product called Fluid Film that would be great for it. It sticks really well and would be less likely to fling all over.
Fluid film is made with lanolin, so it does lubricate. It is very sticky, which makes for good undercoating, but also works good on chains because it doesn't fling off and make as much of a mess as regular oil.
Can worn chain and sprockets sound like a bad bearing either in hydropower output shaft or tranny input shaft? I'm old and hear like an ostrich with its head in the sand so can't decipher the location of noise. Is removing chain and running engine possible like trouble shooter? Thks
Yes, the chain can makes jingling, rattling noise when it's getting worn. Removing the chain and running the engine is a good way to diagnose if that's what is making your noise.
I’m replacing mine on the front wheel assist 1900 right now putting the chain half way together now I am dreading on how I’m going to get my hands in there to do this. I hope nothing has to come apart if any tricks let me know
It's tough on a fwa. The only trick I know there is to take the motor mount bolts out and slide the engine forward an inch or so. Then get the chain on the sprockets. With it forward that little bit there's enough room to get the pins in from the rear with the connecting link on them. I put the small cotter pins in, bend them over, then slide the link on, then I can put all that in the chain. Put the front link on and slide the long cotter pin in and bend the bends on that, slide the engine back and you're done.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Chris I got it only thing I took off was hydra power filter to get my arm in that side and used tough wire made a hook on one end pulled chain through the bottom then wrapped it around got the long cotter pin in and used a screw driver to bend it but was not easy had about 3 hours in it and many cuss words later it’s done and drives good after new n50s too
Mr Losey, I am working on my 1800 B model. I had a hyd leak into the rear end. I had tore it apart last spring to replace the hyd pump. I found out that there weren't any new pumps for that vintage. I put a used pump in. That all went well. A few hours of usage and I couldn't keep the hyd reservoir full. I tore it apart now after the first of the year. I am updating the system. I am trying to put the pto drive shaft back in. It seems to go in fine till it gets to the front of the case, then it hits something and won't go any farther. It has a cab on it so I can't work on it from the side. Do you have any ideas for me to try? Thank you.
Are your couplers lined up on the front of the transmission? Sometimes the splines don't line up on either the PTO or the gear that drives the hydraulic unit, and it takes some turning of the shaft and retrying to get it to go. Also, make sure the shaft is straight by rolling in on a flat surface. Beyond that, I don't have much help. For future reference, you don't have to pull that long shaft to take the hydraulic unit off. Maybe there was something else you had to work on at the same time..
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you for the ideas. I thought of the shaft not being straight. Haven't really taken the time to inspect it. The alignment of the splines is not my problem I don't feel, but I will carefully check on that. I removed the drive shaft to update the pump drive as long as I had it all apart. I have a suspension that the shaft is warped a little. Again thank you for your thoughts.
Hey Chris, I've got a big expensive question for you. The other night after finishing up plowing with our TG 210 and I was letting it idle to cool down the engine started to make a ticking/ vibrating noise. The oil pressure was just fine and water temp. We had the NH macanic come look at it. He said it could possibly be a scored piston, but would have to take it to the shop to do a compression test. Also as a side note after the first oil change on it after buying it we did an oil test on it and a high level of silica was found in the oil. This told us that a air intake hose clamp must be loose. Which sure enough we found. It has always used more oil then it should. I am thinking this could have caused some damage to the engine. The last oil tests we have taken have shown nothing abnormal in the oil. Any thoughts about what could be wrong. Also it has a Cummings 505 in it.
Boy, that's a tough one. A compression check is a good place to start. Does that vent the crankcase to atmosphere or back into the intake? Just wondering if the amount of blow by increased. That would be a sign of piston damage. You could run it without the oil fill cap on and see if there's excessive crankcase pressure. Does it act like it is missing at all? A bad injector can make some funky noises too. If you have a infrared thermometer, point it at each port on the exhaust manifold near the head. There can be some variation, but they're typically 10-20 degrees of each other. That can help narrow it down to which cylinder is acting up.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris The macanic took off the oil fill cover and checked for blow by like you said but didn't think that it was excessive. He also thought about an injector as well, or possibly a valve. Paul and I have been worried that possibly the cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls got taken off when the dust got in the engine. Maybe this had nothing to do with the noise at all, but could still be the reason for the high oil consumption. The macanic told me earlier this fall that this engine is supposed to burn 4 quarts of oil for every 200 gallons of diesel burnt when working it hard. I know it burns more than that though. Do you know what your 6125 is supposed to burn? It is a smaller engine but I am curious if the Cummins burn more then other engines. Thanks for your insights Chris!
I never have to add oil to my 5.9 Cummins. My combine has the 505 and it does use some oil, but not that much. I think I put 8 quarts total in it all of harvest, which was over 100 hours. I thought it was odd at the end of harvest last year that it wasn't using any, then it started growing oil. It didn't smell like diesel, so I resealed the hydraulic pump and problem solved, it's back to using oil.
For what it's worth, loosing the cross hatch would lower compression and cause oil consumption, but I don't see where it would cause a noise out of the ordinary.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris the tractor has always seemed to have good power and was working great the whole time I was using it the day it happened. Just seems funny why it happened while it was idling.
I bought a OEM chain from Ohio Ag in Salem OH. It came in the exact packaging you show. It got it home and unwrapped it and the chain is made in China😕
The chain shouldn't have any looseness to it, but shouldn't be so tight that the pins have a hard time getting close enough to go through the connector link,
My repair videos usually don't do as well. I actually think they hurt my channel at times, except when I found that liner in the oil pan. That one did really well!
I watched that video you shared where the guy's revenue dropped to zero. My views dropped off about the same time, but my revenue stayed proportional to my views and watch time. They definitely changed something.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris with all the talk about algorithm and such lately... And it being messed with 🙄🤔 Andy at Farming Fixing and Fabrication was pretty perplexed by the changes in his channel about last spring. Makes you wonder what they're doing...
I've never seen a single cotter pin bridge two links before on a chain. It made me scratch my head a little.
It keeps the pins from spinning in their holes, which wears them out quicker. I should have mentionedthat in the video.
Yes, if you use 4 small cotter pins the chain link pins will rotate and wear the cotter pins out.The chain will exit the tractor at an inappropriate moment (like when it's 100 degrees and you really want to get some hay raked) and more often than not tear off you're brand new ground speed gauge drive. So move the engine forward and use the long cotter pin and don't cut corners. 😀 Dont ask how I know. 🙄
@@petepeeff5807 I wonder why Oliver didn't run a cup over the chain, like on a driveshaft on a combine header?
@@133dave133 I have had the same thought several times myself!
This is the exact reason I’m watching this right now I scratched my head to the bone too
I never knew about Maibach's extended sprocket. That's a great idea. Although, knowing them, that doesn't surprise me at all. Another great video for the archives! Thanks for sharing! The maintenance/repair videos are such an awesome resource to capture for future Oliver wrenchers!
Guess I should have looked into some kind of product placement deal with them. Lol We got the steering motor bracket from them as well, although that did need some tweaking to fit right.
Thanks for bringing us along Chris. I’ve gone back into your archives a couple times to see what I was getting into. There is always something that needs a little fix’in when they have been in service this long, we are still running strictly Oliver / White tractors.
I was just watching your collection tour part 1 a couple days ago. You have some nice Olivers!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks Chris. That was grandpa’s brand and they have been great.
I learn so much from your videos. I really appreciate you sharing your life with everyone.
Another great tech video. Thanks Chris...
Thanks Chris, I have been waiting for this chain coupler class. Now to see if I have two 1/2 bolts and two 9/16 bolts in the correct places and the threaded hole under the pan of my 1750 with the jam nut to set the height. You da man.
Hello from Tasmania. My old Massey Harris has a chain like that .keep safe Kerry.
Great video Chris, had mine fly off the 1855 couple times and take out the speedometer cable with it. Not much fun trying to put the new one on laying on your back in the middle of a chisel plowed field. Keep the repair video's coming!
Thanks Chris didn't know about the extra long rear coupler option boy that would have saved me some time and aggravation I have put a couple of input shafts in over those splines being worn out.
SO glad i saw this video my neighbor just got an 1850 and wants to pull the engine to do overhaul so i guess we should def look to that too since it would be a good time
New to Oliver and I've got a big growling noise/vibration in direct and over on a 1755 diesel. I ordered a new chain and plan on aligning it properly. I am very thankful for this video as I cannot find any alignment instructions in the factory service manual or I&T manual. Thank you for posting this!!
Glad I can help. That's definitely where I would start.
I've changed a few of these out in the field, and it is no fun. Also, if you ever had the engine out, never mix up or lose the shims if any, under the engine mounts.
Thank you for the video! Dad has a 1800 C with hydra power that started making noise. We assumed its a bearing inside the hydra power, but have just parked it until we get around to working on it. Now I want to look at this chain to check on its condition. I have never had any issues with this chain in the past on any in our neighborhood, but there is always a first.
The chain can get noisy, it's definitely worth checking out.
I’ve got about 6,000 hrs on my 1650, original chain and never been oiled.
Was told not to oil it way back in 66 when we bought it.
I’ve heard of a bunch of measurements but “A Scootch” is a new one for me..
luv it❤️❤️
That's "a scosh" not a scootch. :-)
There's 3 skosh to a bit, and 3 smidges to a skosh.
That Oliver Guy - Chris Losey I’ll have to try and remember that 👌
@@ThatOliverGuyChris What about metric?
Metric is still smidge, skosh and bit, but it's all divisible by 10 instead of 3.
Great video bro.
I was always told the bolts are tapered for the motor mounts and what I always found out when I pulled the engines
Thanks nice work 👍
I’m going to have to do this to our 1850. It’s about ready to pop.
No fair. I always had to put that coupler chain back on after I had been running the tractor for quite a few hours when things where nice and warm.
Excellent video keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍I was doing that same thing today on a customers 1650 diesel oliver it doesn't have a over under or hydra power were some built that way there is lots of room to work in there with out the extra transmission
our Massey 101jr had a chain too I don't remember if it had pins or just an old piece of wire or what direction the pins were put back in by a 14 year old not even an armature grease monkey yet but I replaced what I took out and the new clutch worked just fine. Oh I am 71 now. Thank you Lord.
@@frankdeegan8974 that's true Massey Harris used the chain coupler too
The hydra power or over/under were options. If either one wasn't ordered, a straight shaft that used the same chain coupler was used.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok that makes sense I sort of thought that
Literally did this last week
I always found it amazing when the weather was 70 degrees and it broke under a shade tree the customer usually could replace it themselves. Zero degrees, or 100 degrees, or buried in mud, or covered in manure, we always made a service call. I used to stock one of that number in a drawer of my truck toolbox. It was amazing at how many ones would find that was totally worn out but still going. You brought back many memories and I remembered that part number before you showed the box. BTW, that was cheating doing it without the fuel tank and everything in place. Tee Hee
I had put one in a customer's 1755, then a month or so later it threw it. I stood in the manure of a dairy feed lot to put it back on, to find out they had taken it to someone else for a clutch job after I had worked on it. The sprockets were NOT lined up. Always nice cleaning up someone else's mess. Lol
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Bet all of us old wrench twisters could colaborate on a book about memorable crappy repair jobs in even crappier places. One of my favorites was when a customer would be banging on your door at 6:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning wanting you to go into the dealership to get some part and then you found out it broke last Wednesday. Can you say their next repair job had a little higher labor rate?
How about the guy who can't pay his bill, but the Mrs picks up parts in a new Cadillac?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Then there is the opposite side, when you have a Good customer who was faithful to you over the years go out in his machine shed and hang himself because some big farming operation rented a major part of his ground out from under him. That one made us very sad because we would have gladly have helped him sell his equipment with no commission if we did not have any idea where he could have picked up some more ground. We always had the policy that if a farmer passed away and he had some small debts on our books we would send the widow a statement for $0.00. So you wrote off a couple hundred on parts, somehow the word would get around (not from us) and it would come back in the family and friends stopping in when they needed a new plow or something else.
@@bigun447 You sir, are a good man and likely touched many lives by such gestures. God bless you
Unless I'm remembering wrong, didn't Oliver sell a "chain coupler grease"?
I've had good luck keeping them schmeared with grease. Sometimes when they would let loose the chain could whack an oil line fitting on the over/under.
I remember seeing those chain couplers on a couple of our tractors, but never gave them much thought.
Some guys have trouble with them, and others never have to mess with them. I personally think a lot of it comes down to proper installation.
I remember removing and replacing those chain couplers sometimes they made a lot of racket so I dumped oil on them. Real pain in behind. My 2255 used a different type of coupler it was much easier.
Couplers are always fun 😂🤣
G'day Chris cool video
Thanks, Murphy!
👍👍
My 1755 the chain coupler isn’t align and about once every 6 months the cotter pins break or end up coming out can I leave the chain on and align it using the bolt under the tractor without loosening the motor mount bolts?
Yes. If you have the correct motor bolts, the side to side should be right. Adjust the bolt in the frame for the up and down, but there's no need to loosen the engine bolts.
As an IH and Deere guy, I was always amazed at why they decided to go with a chain coupler. What was the reason they stuck with it for so long?
The initial idea was it allowed for a larger range of tolerances in machining the frames. It worked well enough, but once they started getting over 100 hp, they did come up with something better.
Another greatly helpful video, thank you!
My Dad is gone so I'll pose this question for you to answer-
I've got an 1800B like Dad had. I looked in the operators manual for lubrication of the chain coupler and found nothing.
Due to dust and such I know that you want to run some chains dry.
Does this apply to the chain coupler or should it be oiled?
I've always left them dry. I 've heard of some guys oiling them. There's a product called Fluid Film that would be great for it. It sticks really well and would be less likely to fling all over.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris fluid film ? Thought that was for undercoating ? My 1750 gas just has a light coating of oil..
Fluid film is made with lanolin, so it does lubricate. It is very sticky, which makes for good undercoating, but also works good on chains because it doesn't fling off and make as much of a mess as regular oil.
Can worn chain and sprockets sound like a bad bearing either in hydropower output shaft or tranny input shaft? I'm old and hear like an ostrich with its head in the sand so can't decipher the location of noise. Is removing chain and running engine possible like trouble shooter? Thks
Yes, the chain can makes jingling, rattling noise when it's getting worn. Removing the chain and running the engine is a good way to diagnose if that's what is making your noise.
I’m replacing mine on the front wheel assist 1900 right now putting the chain half way together now I am dreading on how I’m going to get my hands in there to do this. I hope nothing has to come apart if any tricks let me know
It's tough on a fwa. The only trick I know there is to take the motor mount bolts out and slide the engine forward an inch or so. Then get the chain on the sprockets. With it forward that little bit there's enough room to get the pins in from the rear with the connecting link on them. I put the small cotter pins in, bend them over, then slide the link on, then I can put all that in the chain. Put the front link on and slide the long cotter pin in and bend the bends on that, slide the engine back and you're done.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Chris I got it only thing I took off was hydra power filter to get my arm in that side and used tough wire made a hook on one end pulled chain through the bottom then wrapped it around got the long cotter pin in and used a screw driver to bend it but was not easy had about 3 hours in it and many cuss words later it’s done and drives good after new n50s too
@@JimmyT995 awesome
Mr Losey, I am working on my 1800 B model. I had a hyd leak into the rear end. I had tore it apart last spring to replace the hyd pump. I found out that there weren't any new pumps for that vintage. I put a used pump in. That all went well. A few hours of usage and I couldn't keep the hyd reservoir full. I tore it apart now after the first of the year. I am updating the system. I am trying to put the pto drive shaft back in. It seems to go in fine till it gets to the front of the case, then it hits something and won't go any farther. It has a cab on it so I can't work on it from the side. Do you have any ideas for me to try? Thank you.
Are your couplers lined up on the front of the transmission? Sometimes the splines don't line up on either the PTO or the gear that drives the hydraulic unit, and it takes some turning of the shaft and retrying to get it to go. Also, make sure the shaft is straight by rolling in on a flat surface. Beyond that, I don't have much help. For future reference, you don't have to pull that long shaft to take the hydraulic unit off. Maybe there was something else you had to work on at the same time..
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you for the ideas. I thought of the shaft not being straight. Haven't really taken the time to inspect it. The alignment of the splines is not my problem I don't feel, but I will carefully check on that. I removed the drive shaft to update the pump drive as long as I had it all apart. I have a suspension that the shaft is warped a little. Again thank you for your thoughts.
Hey Chris, I've got a big expensive question for you. The other night after finishing up plowing with our TG 210 and I was letting it idle to cool down the engine started to make a ticking/ vibrating noise. The oil pressure was just fine and water temp. We had the NH macanic come look at it. He said it could possibly be a scored piston, but would have to take it to the shop to do a compression test. Also as a side note after the first oil change on it after buying it we did an oil test on it and a high level of silica was found in the oil. This told us that a air intake hose clamp must be loose. Which sure enough we found. It has always used more oil then it should. I am thinking this could have caused some damage to the engine. The last oil tests we have taken have shown nothing abnormal in the oil. Any thoughts about what could be wrong. Also it has a Cummings 505 in it.
Boy, that's a tough one. A compression check is a good place to start. Does that vent the crankcase to atmosphere or back into the intake? Just wondering if the amount of blow by increased. That would be a sign of piston damage. You could run it without the oil fill cap on and see if there's excessive crankcase pressure. Does it act like it is missing at all? A bad injector can make some funky noises too. If you have a infrared thermometer, point it at each port on the exhaust manifold near the head. There can be some variation, but they're typically 10-20 degrees of each other. That can help narrow it down to which cylinder is acting up.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris The macanic took off the oil fill cover and checked for blow by like you said but didn't think that it was excessive. He also thought about an injector as well, or possibly a valve. Paul and I have been worried that possibly the cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls got taken off when the dust got in the engine. Maybe this had nothing to do with the noise at all, but could still be the reason for the high oil consumption. The macanic told me earlier this fall that this engine is supposed to burn 4 quarts of oil for every 200 gallons of diesel burnt when working it hard. I know it burns more than that though. Do you know what your 6125 is supposed to burn? It is a smaller engine but I am curious if the Cummins burn more then other engines. Thanks for your insights Chris!
I never have to add oil to my 5.9 Cummins. My combine has the 505 and it does use some oil, but not that much. I think I put 8 quarts total in it all of harvest, which was over 100 hours. I thought it was odd at the end of harvest last year that it wasn't using any, then it started growing oil. It didn't smell like diesel, so I resealed the hydraulic pump and problem solved, it's back to using oil.
For what it's worth, loosing the cross hatch would lower compression and cause oil consumption, but I don't see where it would cause a noise out of the ordinary.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris the tractor has always seemed to have good power and was working great the whole time I was using it the day it happened. Just seems funny why it happened while it was idling.
I bought a OEM chain from Ohio Ag in Salem OH. It came in the exact packaging you show. It got it home and unwrapped it and the chain is made in China😕
Great, even Agco went with junk.
Chris, do you oil the chains? I have been soaking our chains in gear lube overnight before installation.
I don't lube them. The new ones come coated with a thin layer of grease,
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Do you lube them on the tractor after they have been in service?
No, I don't. I've thought about it, but figured it would make a mess, and I think Oliver recommended not lubing them.
Chris: I would like to see you do a hydraulic filter change on a 1650. Any chance we could see that down the road?
Sure can.
Is it supposed to be loose or tight?
The chain shouldn't have any looseness to it, but shouldn't be so tight that the pins have a hard time getting close enough to go through the connector link,
I thought I was thinkin backwards once until I realized the opposite was true
Equipment tour maybe please Gehl equipment
I plan on it in the near future.
First comment??? And 19 views 🙄😲
My repair videos usually don't do as well. I actually think they hurt my channel at times, except when I found that liner in the oil pan. That one did really well!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris sometimes the numbers don't make sense...
I watched that video you shared where the guy's revenue dropped to zero. My views dropped off about the same time, but my revenue stayed proportional to my views and watch time. They definitely changed something.
Amazingly enough, this video is now doing slightly better than normal.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris with all the talk about algorithm and such lately... And it being messed with 🙄🤔
Andy at Farming Fixing and Fabrication was pretty perplexed by the changes in his channel about last spring. Makes you wonder what they're doing...