I have also some severe corrosion on my front rim. The reason I found this was I got a puncture and found it was caused by bits of corroded aluminium floating about. I am applying some glue to act as a preventative cover and will also paint it . It is not tubeless and not been in seawater. Done around 25K miles of road and trails
Oh salt! I thought the adhesive was reacting with the aluminum. My 90% road application in a low road salt area should fare much better. Thanks for the follow up video.
This reflects the salty conditions it was used in and the poor anodisation / surface treatment of the stock rim and spokes. That corrosion could have been even more widespread if in a tubed configuration. I would suggest a good set of Excel rims would be the best solution here, and reapply a new Outex kit. I am not a metalurgist but I suspect stainless spoke nipples might help as well. Something I haven't tried myself yet is to use an anode to balance the wheels rather than lead or brass weights. I might try this to see if it helps.
Use a piece of flat wood and a hammer is a very common way of fixing the bent rim. I have done this. A lotof motocross shops use black Heavy Duty Gorilla tape in 2 wraps around the rim covering the spokes ends. I have a KTM offroad bike and I discovered the rim tape from the factory 100% missed covering 10 spokes completely. So I replaced it and installed some correctly. Going to inspect the rear wheel soon. Some riders will split the original tube length wise and install it inside between the rim and the new tube for a rear tire. Do not know if can be done for a front tire.
If your doing hard off-road with a bigger adventure bike, sticking with tubes is the best thing to do! Or invest in the Tubliss system. The Outex system is really only meant for light off-road ie; gravel roads or mostly street riding!
Just from an aesthetics perspective I can't stand the manky looking spokes and pitted dull black rims on the T7. I exchanged mine for gold rims with heavy duty stainless steel spokes, from Rally Raid, still tubed. 2 years and many winter miles on salty roads they look like new ! On my 660 Tenere I shot blasted and powder coated the original rims and rebuilt with heavy duty stainless steel spokes...perfect!!. Cheers, Steve
Yea, I have to say I’m slowly reaching the point of wheel rebuild. Probably new rim and spokes in the front and refurb the rear wheel for years to come. Playing with the idea of Bartubless to test how that holds up.
From what I can tell, the aluminum is painted and not anodized. Sure the salt will increase the speed of corrosion, but an anodized surface will hold up better.
Get a tubeles 2.5" rear rim from Haan and go with the tube version on the front. Front is much easier to change the tube than the 4.0 rear rim. Unfortunatly I haven't found a tubeless rim smaller than 2.15" for the T7.
I don't really think there is smaller rim than 2.15" for the front for T7. Excel has the 2.15" which is tubeless ready (has safety humps). How is the Haan rear rim tubeless? I assume it's spoked rim, Is it with the safety humps and do they already seal it? I was looking at Bartubless option for the rear and maybe front, not sure. Yea front tube change is super easy. That is my current setup and I may just keep living with it seem 2.15 rims tend to be problematic with tubeless.
@@FARANDFURTHER the rim is vulcanized and supposed to seal it. the customer support also says that you don't have to tighten the spokes anymore. I haven`t tried it yet but that is how they sell it. the other option would be just to buy the 2.5 rim where you needs tubes and a 140 tire. It`'s also much easier to change the tube.
Ah so that would be same or similar concept of the Bartubless (www.bartubeless.it/how-it-works/?lang=en). The layer is vulcanized onto the rim providing perfect seal. The claim of not needing to adjust the spokes anymore baffles me a bit. Sure the tough rubber layer will function as a locktite but I'd not bet on that one. That being said, it's probably next system - and really the last one to try - after that we have depleted available options for T7.
Hi A rim tape would have held the moisture in just the same under a tube unfortunately salty water will always cause this type of corrosion on aluminium. Not sure with stainless nipples but salt water will increase the risk of electrolysis between dissimilar metals. Maybe the nipples are a poor quality of stainless then electrolysis may occur. Just a thought I'm no expert either. All the best 👍👍😜
Possibly. Maybe the moisture is trapped under the tape. Allows it to sit longer than usual. I now think I will pull the trigger on the super pricey Italian spokeless from Rally Raid. That is a painful purchase though.
@@FARANDFURTHER oh, sorry. I am also building another RR CB500X. I had my lists confused. I thought Rally Raid had tubless for the T7. Sad to see they do not. Woody's Wheel Works seem to have a tubeless. Great company, but they are expensive.
@@comfortablyunknown700 Woody;s sell Excel wheels/Hahn hubs. I got better deal from Off-The-Road, shipping and all, no VAT to USA. I like Woody's but 500usd diffrence
@@comfortablyunknown700 I can see that they seal the wheels with the OutEx. That is fine and I suppose they use a bit better rim than OEM. Although I'm not sure how bad quality the D.I.D. rim would be I think they're quite decent.
@@FARANDFURTHER I had firearms attacked by termites during storage, their guana, shit, reacted to anodizing the same way and corroded the aluminum receivers very badly, didn't take long either, same principle.
I am going to use a TUbliss system on the front rim, and 3M tape on the rear. Does the tubless tyre stay on the rear ok, does the Ténéré have a safety rim on the rear? With regards to the corrosion I think I will use ACF50 on the spokes after I have put the 3M tape on. Drip it down the spokes into the rim from the hub side. I have a World Raid, my son has an XT660Z with Excel rims.
That rim looks beat up. I also really want tubeless wheels on mine and will probably send them to Bartubeless soon. Probaly going with the cheap version which is new front canal and leave the original on the rear. It looks like it's the only reliable way to get tubeless wheels on this bike that will also hold up to some abuse.
still no tubeless rims for T7 on the market? obviously this tape solution is only temporary. For the front wheel I'm considering putting mousse, I've seen that done already.
@@samhill3496 yup, thats true. But if you want to be able to fit more standard rubber, a 3 Will do. I would love to have me a soaré det with 1.75 and 2.5.
@@everythingtenere I had 2.15" front with rim lock and mousse on the Albania Rally and just used UHD Tube in the rear as it's 4" and there is no rimlock for it. Narrower rim in rear would be key here. Regarding mousses Andrew, good off road but on road you'll destroy them quickly if you ride over 80km/h.
Hi Pavel, I had the same problem, even worse, on a 2000 KTM EXC 400 which has never had any kind of a tubeless setup. See abload.de/img/20220426_183719wkkbc.jpg - I was shocked, never seen something like this before.
Holly cow! Hm... in that case it would seem the tubeless solution has little to do with it. As someone mentioned maybe better nipples/spokes so that there is no interaction between materials...
I have also some severe corrosion on my front rim. The reason I found this was I got a puncture and found it was caused by bits of corroded aluminium floating about. I am applying some glue to act as a preventative cover and will also paint it . It is not tubeless and not been in seawater. Done around 25K miles of road and trails
Oh salt! I thought the adhesive was reacting with the aluminum. My 90% road application in a low road salt area should fare much better. Thanks for the follow up video.
This reflects the salty conditions it was used in and the poor anodisation / surface treatment of the stock rim and spokes. That corrosion could have been even more widespread if in a tubed configuration. I would suggest a good set of Excel rims would be the best solution here, and reapply a new Outex kit. I am not a metalurgist but I suspect stainless spoke nipples might help as well. Something I haven't tried myself yet is to use an anode to balance the wheels rather than lead or brass weights. I might try this to see if it helps.
Use a piece of flat wood and a hammer is a very common way of fixing the bent rim. I have done this.
A lotof motocross shops use black Heavy Duty Gorilla tape in 2 wraps around the rim covering the spokes ends.
I have a KTM offroad bike and I discovered the rim tape from the factory 100% missed covering 10 spokes completely.
So I replaced it and installed some correctly. Going to inspect the rear wheel soon.
Some riders will split the original tube length wise and install it inside between the rim and the new tube for a rear tire. Do not know if can be done for a front tire.
If your doing hard off-road with a bigger adventure bike, sticking with tubes is the best thing to do! Or invest in the Tubliss system. The Outex system is really only meant for light off-road ie; gravel roads or mostly street riding!
Just from an aesthetics perspective I can't stand the manky looking spokes and pitted dull black rims on the T7. I exchanged mine for gold rims with heavy duty stainless steel spokes, from Rally Raid, still tubed. 2 years and many winter miles on salty roads they look like new ! On my 660 Tenere I shot blasted and powder coated the original rims and rebuilt with heavy duty stainless steel spokes...perfect!!. Cheers, Steve
Yea, I have to say I’m slowly reaching the point of wheel rebuild. Probably new rim and spokes in the front and refurb the rear wheel for years to come. Playing with the idea of Bartubless to test how that holds up.
I don’t think that do wheels anymore, unfortunately
From what I can tell, the aluminum is painted and not anodized. Sure the salt will increase the speed of corrosion, but an anodized surface will hold up better.
Can't really say, if it's not anodized it would make sense the corrosion will start pretty quickly.
Get a tubeles 2.5" rear rim from Haan and go with the tube version on the front. Front is much easier to change the tube than the 4.0 rear rim. Unfortunatly I haven't found a tubeless rim smaller than 2.15" for the T7.
I don't really think there is smaller rim than 2.15" for the front for T7. Excel has the 2.15" which is tubeless ready (has safety humps).
How is the Haan rear rim tubeless? I assume it's spoked rim, Is it with the safety humps and do they already seal it? I was looking at Bartubless option for the rear and maybe front, not sure.
Yea front tube change is super easy. That is my current setup and I may just keep living with it seem 2.15 rims tend to be problematic with tubeless.
@@FARANDFURTHER the rim is vulcanized and supposed to seal it. the customer support also says that you don't have to tighten the spokes anymore. I haven`t tried it yet but that is how they sell it. the other option would be just to buy the 2.5 rim where you needs tubes and a 140 tire. It`'s also much easier to change the tube.
Ah so that would be same or similar concept of the Bartubless (www.bartubeless.it/how-it-works/?lang=en). The layer is vulcanized onto the rim providing perfect seal.
The claim of not needing to adjust the spokes anymore baffles me a bit. Sure the tough rubber layer will function as a locktite but I'd not bet on that one.
That being said, it's probably next system - and really the last one to try - after that we have depleted available options for T7.
@@FARANDFURTHER it will be the same cause they work together with Excel rims...
I have a feeling that after going through all the cheapo fixes, you will finally buy tubeless rims 😂
Hi
A rim tape would have held the moisture in just the same under a tube unfortunately salty water will always cause this type of corrosion on aluminium. Not sure with stainless nipples but salt water will increase the risk of electrolysis between dissimilar metals. Maybe the nipples are a poor quality of stainless then electrolysis may occur. Just a thought I'm no expert either. All the best 👍👍😜
Those are thought provoking words... I'd not be against spoke & nipple upgrade, although now it's kinda late :)
Possibly. Maybe the moisture is trapped under the tape. Allows it to sit longer than usual.
I now think I will pull the trigger on the super pricey Italian spokeless from Rally Raid. That is a painful purchase though.
Spokeless?!? What?! Link?
@@FARANDFURTHER oh, sorry. I am also building another RR CB500X. I had my lists confused. I thought Rally Raid had tubless for the T7. Sad to see they do not.
Woody's Wheel Works seem to have a tubeless. Great company, but they are expensive.
@@comfortablyunknown700 Woody;s sell Excel wheels/Hahn hubs. I got better deal from Off-The-Road, shipping and all, no VAT to USA. I like Woody's but 500usd diffrence
@@comfortablyunknown700 I can see that they seal the wheels with the OutEx. That is fine and I suppose they use a bit better rim than OEM. Although I'm not sure how bad quality the D.I.D. rim would be I think they're quite decent.
@@samhill3496 great info. Thank you
Just looked it up new OEM Yamaha Rims are freaking expensive. Front is around 800€ and rear 900€... ouch.
I think your first thoughts are correct for sure, moisture gets in gets trapped and corrosion occurred.
Oh, I would throw that rim, time for a meet?😂
Hehe... :) No cash so rim will be ridden until it turns into power, I think.
@@FARANDFURTHER Looks like it could be a risk now to use that rim. Be careful.
@@MotoGuzziMoto Possibly, not really sure if the corrosion compromised its structural properties.
That corrosion is wild
Yea, that's what shocked me really...
@@FARANDFURTHER I had firearms attacked by termites during storage, their guana, shit, reacted to anodizing the same way and corroded the aluminum receivers very badly, didn't take long either, same principle.
@@samhill3496 Holly cow! Guns vs Termites.... termites win! :LOL That's epic.
I am going to use a TUbliss system on the front rim, and 3M tape on the rear. Does the tubless tyre stay on the rear ok, does the Ténéré have a safety rim on the rear? With regards to the corrosion I think I will use ACF50 on the spokes after I have put the 3M tape on. Drip it down the spokes into the rim from the hub side. I have a World Raid, my son has an XT660Z with Excel rims.
Ci va coraggio a promuovere certe cose.
That rim looks beat up. I also really want tubeless wheels on mine and will probably send them to Bartubeless soon. Probaly going with the cheap version which is new front canal and leave the original on the rear. It looks like it's the only reliable way to get tubeless wheels on this bike that will also hold up to some abuse.
Tubliss? I hear that's pretty good
still no tubeless rims for T7 on the market? obviously this tape solution is only temporary. For the front wheel I'm considering putting mousse, I've seen that done already.
There are aftermarket rims with tubeless.
Regsrding mooses, that’s great for rallies, but you would need a 2.5 rear and 1.75 front rim with rim lock.
@@everythingtenere I think rear is 2.15 for rally wheel, wider knobbie for clearance. extra strong double thick spokes
@@samhill3496 yup, thats true. But if you want to be able to fit more standard rubber, a 3 Will do.
I would love to have me a soaré det with 1.75 and 2.5.
@@everythingtenere I had 2.15" front with rim lock and mousse on the Albania Rally and just used UHD Tube in the rear as it's 4" and there is no rimlock for it. Narrower rim in rear would be key here.
Regarding mousses Andrew, good off road but on road you'll destroy them quickly if you ride over 80km/h.
I meant mousses only for front, e.g. Lyndon Poskit used it like that in his travel bike. Rear would not last long.
Have you tried Bartubeless?
it doesn't work on big bike bb is for small dirt bikes
🙈, try to get a sponsor for a new rim an SS spokes 😫
You know very well that free stuff from sponsors does not come for free... better to buy that s***T :)
@@FARANDFURTHER haha, true.
Fix a go fynd me page for new Wheels for a crazy CZ
all u need it 3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive ftw stop buy all this bs tapes
Howk
Hi Pavel, I had the same problem, even worse, on a 2000 KTM EXC 400 which has never had any kind of a tubeless setup. See abload.de/img/20220426_183719wkkbc.jpg - I was shocked, never seen something like this before.
Holly cow! Hm... in that case it would seem the tubeless solution has little to do with it. As someone mentioned maybe better nipples/spokes so that there is no interaction between materials...