Stock intake and airbox is extremely well designed so other than getting an high performance air filter that should be good to go as far as performance is concerned. I still went for an upgraded intake (with the inlet that goes all the way to the turbo) just for the sound. The default system has 3 "resonators" that muffle the turbine noises a lot. I just love hearing the turbo much more, and for normal driving you don't really notice it much so it's not obnoxious either
Great video! As a newbie, I am learning a lot as I own a 540i 2023 (B58TU300M1 type) but may I ask if I have no access to E85, and only a gasoline pump (high octane 98 fuel), what kind of tuning I can get? Also, having the 540i, I am not a big fan of the handling and suspension, I guess not so comfy on road pumps nor firm for body roll. Can you suggest the best suspension mods (having Runflats on 21inch rims, and I am happy to change these if required. Again, thanks a million!
Khaled - We think our community may be best for this: community.bmwtuning.co/ Specifically our mod courses will go over these questions in depth: bmwtuning.co/courses/bmw-b58-engine-mod-tuning-course/ We've spent thousands of hours researching the BMW engines and all the answers you're looking for will be there.
Can the B58 modded up to or around 500+ hp, function well as a daily driver and be reliable? I want a 440i gc next year, but dont want a headache to deal with. Thanks.
Hey man. Great video. I'd like some tips here. So I plan on buying a F32 440i and modifying it to have the same or similar performance as the F82 M4 Comp. So around 450-500 whp and similar maneuverability. I basically want the performance of an M4 without actually having the M4. Reason being I don't want the attention the m4 brings. I love the car, but I want something subtle like the 440i. Also the F32 is a bit more practical. Other than modding the engine. What else can I do to get to as close to M4 performance as possible
Khumo - Thanks for the feedback! So, assuming that you already know what you need to do in terms of engine mods and tuning, the next place that you’ll need to look to get your F32 as close to an F82 as possible is the handling/drivability aspect. Ultimately, even with extensive mods, a 440i isn’t going to feel like an M4, but there are a few notable upgrades that you can do to improve the overall driving experience of your F32. There are quite a few differences between the F32 and F82 in terms of driving dynamics, and the major differences lie in suspension setup, brakes, differentials, bushings, and tires. A quality set of coilovers, such as Ohlins, will help improve grip and reduce body roll in a track setting at the cost of a bit of comfort. The M4 has much better 6/4POT brakes than the 440i, so you’ll want to think about upgrading to a big brake kit if you plan on doing extensive track driving. The M4’s Active M differential is another major difference between the cars which gives the M4 more intuitive handling characteristics. The best option for the 440i is to swap the diff with an M Performance limited slip diff which will be a night and day difference during both acceleration and throttle lifts or braking (decelerating) at turn-in. The F82 is a much stiffer car all around which is optimal for performance driving. To give your F32 more of that feel, you can swap out the majority of the car’s primary bushings in favor of polyurethane bushings. While poly bushings are great for performance, they will reduce daily comfort by quite a bit. Tires are another major factor in the performance of your F32 on track. While there were a number of factory tire options for the F82, the best performance option for the M4 was a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports which would provide extreme grip on your F32 as well. Obviously, there are quite a few other major differences between the cars not mentioned here, but that is a pretty good start, hope that helps!
@@8020Media Wow. Thanks. I knew there were a lot of differences, but no one explained them like this. I was really surprised with the differential. This actually makes me reconsider the M4 😅. Would be more simple to just buy that. Anyway, I really appreciate the response. I'll come back to this if I do decide on the F32. Thank you
I'm planning on building my 340i with the same philosophy as yours. Here are some things to consider: WIDER WHEELS & TIRES (18×9.5 ET35 Square w/ 265/35/18. This is as large as you can go without pulling the fender and strut clearance may require a 3-5mm spacer in the front. All equal tire sizes aren't the same so it's a good habit to compare tread widths on Tirerack.), LSD (M Perf LSD or Wavetrac. This'll help with putting down power on limited tire and help with extracting the limits of the car.), SUSPENSION & BRACING (in order to get more adjustability and camber, you can either go with F8X M arms with poly or monoballs while installing powerflex bushings into everything else. Or you can splurge on the SPL catalog which have spherical bushing on both ends and are also lighter than factory arms. Solid or Delrin in the subframe really tightens up the rear if it's already moving on thrashed rubber. There hasn't been a noise increase at least from my experience. Differential bushings with a Burger Motorsport lockdown kit would also be something to consider. The lockdown kit will add some harmonics but the diff bushings will make the most change. I'm a firm believer in matching the subframe and diff bushings with similar materials [on most platforms, not all] but understand that this can be too much for some. If you think delrin on the diff will be intolerable, I'd go with the lockdown kit and a medium Powerflex polyurethane. Transmission bushing I'd keep stock or one poly grade above stock. The whine is nearly unbearable and even if you added more sound deadening around the transmission tunnel it'd probably still be too much. Motor mounts are personal preference. I find the stock motor mounts with aluminum inserts to give a nice raw feel but then again, it can be too much for some. Powerflex also make inserts with poly. I know on the E9X and E8X 35i platforms, there was a problem with melting poly mounts and inserts when partaking in track days or prolonged spirited driving. Doesn't seem to be an issue on this platform just something to consider. Lastly for this section, if your steering has a clicking feedback of deadzone near the center, upgrade to the aluminum rack and pinion.), QUALITY COILOVERS *unless you're at the highest level of motorsports or competing, brand rarely matters as long as you have proper spring rate and valving for your vehicle and application* (some of my recommendations would be KW, ST, MCS, and Ohlins), & WEIGHT REDUCTION (wheels, brake components, lightweight suspension arms [SPL], aftermarket struts, carbon hood, carbon trunk, bucket seats [I find the Sparco EVO line to be reasonably priced and comfy], lithium battery [Antigravity would be my choice], carbon driveshaft [we don't have any off the shelf options for this platform but given that the A90 Supra community has one, I'm sure DSS can custom build one], and custom DSS axles [at least on the platforms I've seen, they hold more power while being lighter than factory.] These cars are not and will never be M cars but that doesn't mean that we can't make them more fun and capable. I know I typed your ear off but I wanted to be as thorough as possible. Not sure if you plan to track your car or not but these engines seem to hold up to abuse pretty well, we don't have oil starvation issues like we did on the N55. Fuel starvation however is still an issue just due to the saddle design. Anywhere from 1/4 - 1/2 tank on a road course and you risk fuel starvation. Keep it above half and you should be good. There aren't any drop in surge tank solutions on this platform but you can modify the fuel hangar to accommodate an external tank. Just use quality lines and fittings so you don't get fuel smell into the cabin. M cars share this fate too so that's one more thing that brings us closer together lol
Hey man, I got f36 440i and i have change to catless downpipe and intake also got a mhd ots map and xhp, My point is that i haven’t upgraded hpfp, can i still run ots map like stage 2 with E85 octane, if so like how many liters or % should be in the tank with normal gas?? Cause where i live we got only 95 and 98 octanes
@@zhyaryassin2975 don’t know, best is to upgrade asap to the TU pump no matter what tuning your are going to do. The TU pump has a lot of potential and gives you a lot of breathing room when tuning the car.
What gasoline additives can we use with the gen 1? ie- liquid moly Is valve cleaner injection cleaner Valve cleaner injection cleaner. And their speed Tech.
Are you looking for something to help keep the valves clean? It never really hurts to toss some valve cleaner in there from time to time but since there is no port injection on the gen 1's it really isn't going to do anything in terms of cleaning out the intake ports, it will just help keep the valves a bit cleaner, albeit minimally. I don't have any experience with the LiquiMoly SpeecTec but I wouldn't expect much in terms of performance benefit out of it.
Best video! Thanks!
R - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Stock intake and airbox is extremely well designed so other than getting an high performance air filter that should be good to go as far as performance is concerned.
I still went for an upgraded intake (with the inlet that goes all the way to the turbo) just for the sound. The default system has 3 "resonators" that muffle the turbine noises a lot.
I just love hearing the turbo much more, and for normal driving you don't really notice it much so it's not obnoxious either
D - Thanks for sharing your experience! It really all comes down to personal preference.
ah yes the perks of living in a state with no emissions inspections
Josh - Gotta love it.
Lols sunshine state 😂😅
Great video! As a newbie, I am learning a lot as I own a 540i 2023 (B58TU300M1 type) but may I ask if I have no access to E85, and only a gasoline pump (high octane 98 fuel), what kind of tuning I can get? Also, having the 540i, I am not a big fan of the handling and suspension, I guess not so comfy on road pumps nor firm for body roll. Can you suggest the best suspension mods (having Runflats on 21inch rims, and I am happy to change these if required. Again, thanks a million!
Khaled - We think our community may be best for this: community.bmwtuning.co/
Specifically our mod courses will go over these questions in depth: bmwtuning.co/courses/bmw-b58-engine-mod-tuning-course/
We've spent thousands of hours researching the BMW engines and all the answers you're looking for will be there.
Can the B58 modded up to or around 500+ hp, function well as a daily driver and be reliable? I want a 440i gc next year, but dont want a headache to deal with. Thanks.
C - It can be. All just depends on how many supporting mods you get for it!
Hey man. Great video. I'd like some tips here. So I plan on buying a F32 440i and modifying it to have the same or similar performance as the F82 M4 Comp. So around 450-500 whp and similar maneuverability.
I basically want the performance of an M4 without actually having the M4. Reason being I don't want the attention the m4 brings. I love the car, but I want something subtle like the 440i. Also the F32 is a bit more practical.
Other than modding the engine. What else can I do to get to as close to M4 performance as possible
Khumo - Thanks for the feedback! So, assuming that you already know what you need to do in terms of engine mods and tuning, the next place that you’ll need to look to get your F32 as close to an F82 as possible is the handling/drivability aspect. Ultimately, even with extensive mods, a 440i isn’t going to feel like an M4, but there are a few notable upgrades that you can do to improve the overall driving experience of your F32.
There are quite a few differences between the F32 and F82 in terms of driving dynamics, and the major differences lie in suspension setup, brakes, differentials, bushings, and tires. A quality set of coilovers, such as Ohlins, will help improve grip and reduce body roll in a track setting at the cost of a bit of comfort. The M4 has much better 6/4POT brakes than the 440i, so you’ll want to think about upgrading to a big brake kit if you plan on doing extensive track driving. The M4’s Active M differential is another major difference between the cars which gives the M4 more intuitive handling characteristics. The best option for the 440i is to swap the diff with an M Performance limited slip diff which will be a night and day difference during both acceleration and throttle lifts or braking (decelerating) at turn-in.
The F82 is a much stiffer car all around which is optimal for performance driving. To give your F32 more of that feel, you can swap out the majority of the car’s primary bushings in favor of polyurethane bushings. While poly bushings are great for performance, they will reduce daily comfort by quite a bit.
Tires are another major factor in the performance of your F32 on track. While there were a number of factory tire options for the F82, the best performance option for the M4 was a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports which would provide extreme grip on your F32 as well.
Obviously, there are quite a few other major differences between the cars not mentioned here, but that is a pretty good start, hope that helps!
@@8020Media Wow. Thanks. I knew there were a lot of differences, but no one explained them like this. I was really surprised with the differential.
This actually makes me reconsider the M4 😅. Would be more simple to just buy that. Anyway, I really appreciate the response. I'll come back to this if I do decide on the F32.
Thank you
Khumo - No problem at all! Keep us updated on this.
I'm planning on building my 340i with the same philosophy as yours. Here are some things to consider: WIDER WHEELS & TIRES (18×9.5 ET35 Square w/ 265/35/18. This is as large as you can go without pulling the fender and strut clearance may require a 3-5mm spacer in the front. All equal tire sizes aren't the same so it's a good habit to compare tread widths on Tirerack.), LSD (M Perf LSD or Wavetrac. This'll help with putting down power on limited tire and help with extracting the limits of the car.), SUSPENSION & BRACING (in order to get more adjustability and camber, you can either go with F8X M arms with poly or monoballs while installing powerflex bushings into everything else. Or you can splurge on the SPL catalog which have spherical bushing on both ends and are also lighter than factory arms. Solid or Delrin in the subframe really tightens up the rear if it's already moving on thrashed rubber. There hasn't been a noise increase at least from my experience. Differential bushings with a Burger Motorsport lockdown kit would also be something to consider. The lockdown kit will add some harmonics but the diff bushings will make the most change. I'm a firm believer in matching the subframe and diff bushings with similar materials [on most platforms, not all] but understand that this can be too much for some. If you think delrin on the diff will be intolerable, I'd go with the lockdown kit and a medium Powerflex polyurethane. Transmission bushing I'd keep stock or one poly grade above stock. The whine is nearly unbearable and even if you added more sound deadening around the transmission tunnel it'd probably still be too much. Motor mounts are personal preference. I find the stock motor mounts with aluminum inserts to give a nice raw feel but then again, it can be too much for some. Powerflex also make inserts with poly. I know on the E9X and E8X 35i platforms, there was a problem with melting poly mounts and inserts when partaking in track days or prolonged spirited driving. Doesn't seem to be an issue on this platform just something to consider. Lastly for this section, if your steering has a clicking feedback of deadzone near the center, upgrade to the aluminum rack and pinion.), QUALITY COILOVERS *unless you're at the highest level of motorsports or competing, brand rarely matters as long as you have proper spring rate and valving for your vehicle and application* (some of my recommendations would be KW, ST, MCS, and Ohlins), & WEIGHT REDUCTION (wheels, brake components, lightweight suspension arms [SPL], aftermarket struts, carbon hood, carbon trunk, bucket seats [I find the Sparco EVO line to be reasonably priced and comfy], lithium battery [Antigravity would be my choice], carbon driveshaft [we don't have any off the shelf options for this platform but given that the A90 Supra community has one, I'm sure DSS can custom build one], and custom DSS axles [at least on the platforms I've seen, they hold more power while being lighter than factory.]
These cars are not and will never be M cars but that doesn't mean that we can't make them more fun and capable. I know I typed your ear off but I wanted to be as thorough as possible. Not sure if you plan to track your car or not but these engines seem to hold up to abuse pretty well, we don't have oil starvation issues like we did on the N55. Fuel starvation however is still an issue just due to the saddle design. Anywhere from 1/4 - 1/2 tank on a road course and you risk fuel starvation. Keep it above half and you should be good. There aren't any drop in surge tank solutions on this platform but you can modify the fuel hangar to accommodate an external tank. Just use quality lines and fittings so you don't get fuel smell into the cabin. M cars share this fate too so that's one more thing that brings us closer together lol
L - Thanks for taking the time to write this out! It will be very helpful for future viewers!
An update to this video would be nice!
I - What do you mean?
I'm newbie in topic, what engine gen have bmw m440i from end of 2021?
D - I think we get what you're asking. B58B30O1
@@8020Media thanks :)
Hey man,
I got f36 440i and i have change to catless downpipe and intake also got a mhd ots map and xhp,
My point is that i haven’t upgraded hpfp, can i still run ots map like stage 2 with E85 octane, if so like how many liters or % should be in the tank with normal gas?? Cause where i live we got only 95 and 98 octanes
Stock TU pump handles a max of 33% ethanol.
@@cj340ix thanks for the answer what about stoch hpfp, not tu the stock one in gen 1 b58?? How much ethanol it can handel??
Z - We have a ton of content on our BMW website that'll help you out here: bmwtuning.co/b58/
@@zhyaryassin2975 don’t know, best is to upgrade asap to the TU pump no matter what tuning your are going to do. The TU pump has a lot of potential and gives you a lot of breathing room when tuning the car.
@@cj340ix okay thank you bro for infos definitely will do that!
I had a “custom” stage 1 tune with air intake and catless downpipe , only got 9 WHP and 90 torque
2 - That doesn’t sound right
@@8020Media yes definitely, think I got cheaped out on the tune. He said it was custom eagle eye 🤷🏽♂️ at least that’s what the dyno results were
2 - These engines are extremely capable.. a tune with the mods you listed should be doing A LOT more than that.
Dp cat back cold air intake ecu flash and meth 500whp is achievable on bone stock motor.
P - yup!
What gasoline additives can we use with the gen 1? ie- liquid moly Is valve cleaner injection cleaner Valve cleaner injection cleaner. And their speed Tech.
Are you looking for something to help keep the valves clean? It never really hurts to toss some valve cleaner in there from time to time but since there is no port injection on the gen 1's it really isn't going to do anything in terms of cleaning out the intake ports, it will just help keep the valves a bit cleaner, albeit minimally. I don't have any experience with the LiquiMoly SpeecTec but I wouldn't expect much in terms of performance benefit out of it.
hybrid turbo, hpfp, water meth, downpipe and tune --- 500whp reliable
P - Thanks for sharing the insight.