Replace MINI Cooper crank sensor o-ring & oil pan gasket R50 R52 R53
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2014
- Gen 1 MINI leaking oil? Your crankshaft position sensor o-ring is almost certainly bad, but the oil pan gasket could be as well. I show you how to change both.
The crank sensor o-ring leaks on 100% of R50, R52 and R53 1st generation MINIs! Oil pan usually starts leaking at around 80-100,000 miles. Mechanics eye view repair howto video.
Buy parts and install yourself to save money and have fun by working on your own MINI Cooper!
Buy belt tool here:
amzn.to/1jO4dgH
Buy oil pan gasket here:
amzn.to/1rgGbng
Buy crank sensor o-ring here:
www.waymotorworks.com/cranksha...
"DIY videos provided for reference/entertainment purposes only. Only work on your car if you have the right tools and are comfortable doing so. If in doubt, consult a professional. Mod MINI is not responsible for any 'mistakes' or 'incidents' arising out of your working on your own vehicle. Have fun and stay safe!" Follow #ModMINI on Twitter to get notified of new video uploads! / modminiyoutube Thanks for watching!
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I never, ever. Skip a mod mini Ad. This man deserves every penny and more!! Thanks so much :)
I’ve never seen an ad but you are correct sir.
I am learning so much from you about how to maintain the 2006 R53 that I bought from a Seattle used mini dealer a year ago. I am nearly 75 years old and have always worked on my cars. Glad I found you on CZcams.
I did it!!! Cost me about $60 and a day of work vs. over $700 at the shop. Thank you again for your awesome videos and empowering us!
I appreciate all your videos. Just bought his and hers 2003 S's and these are saving me money. Not to mention the enjoyment and satisfaction I'm getting by doing all the work myself.
When jacking anything on the pinch I use hockey pucks with a groove cut into them - it saves the paint among other things!
I’ve owned my mini for a month now and your videos have helped me with everything I need to know about servicing, changing pulleys, changing seals etc. there very in depth and I enjoy watching them! Thank you for your help
Thanks a lot for the video! Helped a ton, especially the "train on the coil pack clip first".
After fighting for 2h upside down with that darn clip (I skipped the compressor removal since I was only doing the sensor), one big advice for others: if you struggle with the crank sensor clip (bad dexterity, big hands, tons of grime, whatever), pull the 10m bolt first and the sensor out of the engine.
That way, it falls down a bit and you have much more room and access to unclip it. Or you can even skip the unclipping altogether and change the o-ring right there.
My R53 has needed this for 100k of the last 200k miles. Thanks!!
You’re a legend!!! Thanks to you I’ve managed to do my Mini Cooper s oil leak , had the same issue which was crank sensor o-ring and oil pan gasket, also I’ve done the thermostat sensor including housing and the timing chain along chain tensioner, thanks to your videos I saved a bit of money 👍 god bless you
I just got an estimate of $1250 to replace a oil pan for a 2006 Mini Cooper S. This looks like a 2 hour job, coffee breaks included. Thanks so much for this!!
2 hour job???????? Dream on................
The most useful Mini maintenance videos by far. Really appreciate your help. Many thanks.
Just did this. Don't need special belt removal tool. There is a 3/8 square ratchet hole in the tensioner. Just put a long ratchet in the hole, and you can release the tension on the belt. Use an allen wrench for pin. Thanks for your great video. I would not have tried this job
without it.
Great to know. That did the same on my '97 Isuzu hombre. Thought maybe same with my Mini. Cheers!
Good to know!
I completed another mini repair thanks to the guidance of this awesome video. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for putting this together. I replaced my crank sensor O ring today, and this helped a lot!
Awesome video! I replaced my crankshaft position sensor o-ring today. Removing the front of the vehicle was surprisingly easy. Thanks so much!
Thank you for this thorough and helpful video. Just changed the oil pan and followed the steps in this video with great success.
Still coming in clutch after all these years, thanks for the useful information
Thank you! I bought an 03 mini with >200k miles. It needs a little work. I can’t wait to get the car fixed up. i really appreciate your videos! Thank you, again!
Perfect timing for this video. Thanks so much! My car is currently up on jacks in front end service mode for a radiator replacement and I was debating whether to go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket. After watching this video, I think I'm up for it!
Get that crank sensor o-ring as well if you haven't already done it :-)
Great, my weekly fix, perfect timing :) and yes, I am working on mine this weekend if its not pouring rain !
Man, you really gotta love the Mini Cooper to go through all that work to do little things... Thanks for the video. As always, it's immensely useful!
Oil pan gasket is a little thing? Ok. I would have said this looks damn easy for something on many cars you have to drop the subframe.
@@ironmantooltime so simple...
Thank you for your time putting this video together. Very helpful.
Thank you!!! However much I follow your videos. It shows that you put a lot of passion. You're really good! :D
This man is an Ace ! Thank you !
GREAT VIDEO! It's a little bit of work, but the way you explained it is perfect!! Thanks!!
Dude! You make an excellent video. Not too much info, not too little but just right! Thanks for helping me decide whether I should buy a mini with oil pan leak! :) Jonathan, Hawaii
Nicely done! Excellent POV and audio too. Keep up the good work!
C Brooks Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
I've watched a few of your videos and they are really informative. Thanks :)
Mod MINI: I have watched a few of your videos and you are amazing- the way you break it down works great for me (especially the timing chain tensioner- going to do that very soon). I am a newby- have had my "04 MCS for 7 years. My mechanic has price gouged me on parts (I started investigating how much stuff costs and if I could fix it myself). Bought OBD2 reader a week ago- has paid for itself 10 times over (cylinder 4 misfire). Changed my spark plugs, ignition coil, swapped defective coolant resevoir- and today I did my fuel filter(by following your video). NOW HERE IS WHERE I NEED HELP: when I was replacing my coil, I accidentally dropped a grommet down- I could see it but had to get under the car to get it with needle nose. While I was under, I noticed a lot of oil all over the bottom of the pan. I knew I had a minor leak, and was going to do my first full oil change (next week)- had assumed that my mechanic hadn't changed my drain plug/bolt. I touched the bolt and gasket and oil dribbled all over my hand. This video scared me a little bit (big job for a novice)- COULD the drain bolt and gasket being old and bad cause a leak like that? The leak started RIGHT AFTER my last oil change about 6 months ago.
Impossible for me to say without looking at the car. Most common oil leaks are crank sensor o-ring seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket. The drain plug can leak as well if not properly tightened/cross threaded. A drain plug leak will drip to the floor and will drip even if car is not driven. The others only leak when car is running.
Doing this today, thank you for your videos.
I'll be doing this soon. thanks for the great videos!
Thorough and pretty good filmography! You have saved me thousands. Can you show me how to fix my washing machine, weed whacker, solar setup...?? I owe you more than a few beers. I have done one DIY post for Mini, but it pales next to your presentation. Exceptional!! Please, keep up the good work!
Nice I Was Waiting For This Video
To Change The Oil Pan Gasket.
Is Easy.
I'm All Ready Order The
Crankshaft O-Ring Gasket.
Thanks For This Videos! 👍
Thank you. I successfully completed this project... I would of never attempted it with out this video.
Thanks for all your videos. For the oil pan gasket change, I find that it’s better to bolt on the three horizontal bolts first. This will hold the pan in place for all the 10mm bolts to catch the thread on the engine block. Cheers!
I do opposite. I put in a couple 10mm bolts to hold it up there. Then insert 15mm bolts while using up a little more. Do not tighten any bolts fully. yet. Hand thread all bolts before tightening any and make sure to push oil pan toward transmission while doing so.
I like all your videos they are so helpful
Thanks again for all these MINI vids man, I appreciate it!
Outstanding video. Thanks for posting this
Love your videos! Keep it up!
Keep up the good work mate.
Your videos are excellent sir, many thanks
good channel! I just bought a R53 and need some tips
This is a great video!
Thanks for sharing it.
Great video and super helpful!
Love your videos keep it going on 👍👍👍
Hi, I love your Mini Cooper videos - I feel a little more confident to try to change my oil filter housing after watching your vid. I have a question though, - will I need to drain the oil completely before removing the oil filter housing or will it just lose a little oil that I can top up after the job?
Thanks in advance for your reply and keep up the Mini Cooper guidance videos, I believe it helps lots of people keeping their minis in top shape. More power to you!
Top Video Bro.. I learnt watching this video today October 2020 Thumbs Up
thank you! Great video and very helpful
Thank you very much for your videos the truth that was a great help and I could do it myself and I am very satisfied with the work goes well Modmini...! 👍🏼👌🏼
Great videos! What I am really looking for is a video procedure for completely removing the dash of an R53, in order to replace the blower motor. Any chance you have one of those?
Thanks.. I found it It's the vent hose from the crank case valve
Thank you ! great video
Yo this guys is the best evrybody loves him 😃
Thank you for this.
Thanks for all your help. I bought an oil pan gasket that came with some gasket sealant. Is it a good idea to use it?
wow thx! Super great video!
Awesome video 👍👌 thanks
keep up the good work.
Very helpful, made it a day job along with doing the thermostat housing seal and a heli-coil for the oil pan drain plug. Would have been double the time without the video
I saw oil all over the driveway. I followed the line and it went everywhere I went in town that day lol.
Thanks, very helpful!
Excellent video brother ... Head and oil pan gaskets are on the top of my to do list after replacing the front struts.. Wouldn't have thought about the crank sensor o-ring tho...
Do you happen to know by chance if thats a standard or metric o-ring?
Only asking cause i bought an assorted pack of metric awhile back... Might just buy the other set just to have...
Appreciate the upload , very informative .. Thank you :)
Now if i can do it as fast and effortlessly as you did :)
You are amazing! Thanks for posting all the videos. You have made my self servicing of my Fun Car sooo much easier. Question: Can you change the oil pan gasket without going into front end service mode?
+greg arifian Yes, but it is very difficult to access two of the three bolts holding the AC compressor. Watch this video for how. czcams.com/video/d1A41iHzBiE/video.html
Gotta do this on mine too, same model and same look of the car (except for the wheels). Let's see how it goes once Ive got the parts..
Hey there, thanks for this great video. My mini dealer told me it takes about 4h to do. Would you say he's correct? Cheers
yoooo u the GOAT respect too you my mann!!!!!!
after I replace all of them, yeah the lights comes on again, so I when to connect the scanner and told me it was the right side rear abs sensor, so what did, I just clean everything as much as possible even the wheel bearing, and I when to a test drive and again the lights on, I check it again with the scanner and told me is the one in the left side know. and it's only when the car go between 75-80 miles per hour, before that, no problem. Thanks again really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for these vids. You are the go to guy for Mini's! I am changing the CPS and oil pan gasket on my 2006 S R53. I bought the car used and I know the auto transmission was rebuilt so I assume the engine was pulled. After cleaning up the pan I noticed small cracks on the inside radiating from the oil pick up sump area and a few more here and there. On the exterior I don't see a matching pattern but I did find a few similar looking cracks here and there. There was a lot of oil leaking so hard to say exactly where it was coming from but the CPS was definitely leaking. Some say these pan cracks are nothing to worry about but I don't see anything like this in pictures of new pans. Worried someone used a floor jack on the pan to lift the car or something similar. No scratches or marks like the pan hit something. Ever seen anything like this before? Thanks in advance.
There is appearance of cracks around the casting fill area due to how the oil pans were cast, but I've never seen one leaking because of this.
About to do this on a r50, do I need a special tool to remove a/c belt or is it different on r50?
thank you! this video is very helpfull i thought you had to take the crank pulley off to remove the oil pan. I appreciate the video and will also replace that o ring. Would it be good to change my oil pressure sensor? while im there?
Oil pressure sensor (on the back of the block) should not need replacing unless it's broken or leaking. The crank position sensor o-ring (on the front of the block) is a different story - that o-ring should be replaced.
Fantastic!
Is there a torque spec for the 13mm bolts on the engine mount and compressor?
What pitch are the 8mm bolts you are using, 8x1x100?
Thanks for your excellent video I did the job step by step and It was fun cause you feel sure doing it, the only thing I see when I was replacing the oil pan gasket i saw by the filter housing oil coming down from there too and do you have any recommendations about it? And also after assembly everything back and turn on the car my mini start going up in the revolution like 1800 then goes down to 1000 and it's doing it constantly. Any idea what could be?
There is a gasket between the filter housing and block. It's held on by three bolts. Remove the power steering fan and lower engine mount to get access. You may also need to pull the right axle. I've only ever replaced this filter so far when the subframe is out of the car, which gives lots of access. It may also be possible to attack from the top side (where you usually pull the oil filter cap).
Yoyo idle is probably a vacuum leak.
Where can I get the tool to decompress my belt tensioner, and/ what can I use in replacement if I don’t have one
How often does the oil pan gasket need to be replaced? What about the valve cover gasket?
Is it possible to reach the crank sensor without removing the compressor? (in front service mode)
Thanks a lot for this awesome video... I am going to get mine done.... question? What will cause my oil sensor light on my console to flush periodically... I know my oil level is good but seems have the sensor light come on every so often. Any ideas? I have a 03 cooper S. Thanks for any suggestions.
Typically that's worn main or connecting rod bearings causing a drop in oil pressure. Also could be damaged anti drain valve inside the filter housing. If damaged, oil pressure does not build. replace the oil filter housing first, if light is still on, you're probably looking at major engine work.
Just did this job amd now my a.c. conpressor isnt turning on, im positive I plugged everything back in. I even unplugged and replugged the compressor plug again and still nothing. I did notice my power steering fan is not working could that be related to the compressor not working?
Anyone know if it makes sense to change the belt as well? Anyone know the part number?
great information are your videos, today I managed to remove my head following your earlier video. But now have to remove the sump (oil pan) as a socket fell down the cam chain guide lol. It was a friend who was helping at least he told me. But after watching this ill sort that seal out as well. As for water pumps is there anyway to check them out with the supercharger in situ, Also we cant remove the injector rail one injector is solid with what looks like rust any hints on removing this as I'm frightened on breaking the fuel rail,
cheers
Neil
Look for seepage on bottom of water pump. If it's leaking there will be white crust or maybe moisture there. Car needs to be in front end service mode, look up from underneath.
Fuel rail can be pried off gently after removing the two 13mm bolts. It's just held in place at that point by the injector o-rings. Pry firmly but gently.
Great video thanks. Well I've had the rear main crank seal done (plus new clutch) and I did the crank sensor o ring myself, but it's still leaking oil. Getting a small patch, dripping off the bottom of bolt next to that weeping hole /between sump and flywheel. I will do the sump gasket next and really hope it stop this pesky leak. Excuse to get the spanners out on the Mini, so I'm ok with that :)
Keep the vids coming
Cheers
That's either a botched rear main seal job (happened to me one time, I had to pull the transmission again to redo the seal for free) or oil pan gasket. Oil pan gasket usually leaks along the back side of the engine but it might come out around the weep hole as well.
done the sump/oil pan gasket and it is still weeping oil from the weep hole - oh boy not good. other than the rear main seal again - what else is up there that could leak? must be the rear main crank oil seal - How could the garage botch that? damage the seal when inserting it somehow I suppose? so frustrating.
Gavin Yeo
Nothing else up there that could leak. If it was replaced by the garage, go back to the garage and complain. Every once in a while a seal will leak - either a bad part, a burr or some wear on the crankshaft seal surface, or the seal was installed improperly.
Thank you kind sir. Appreciate your quick replies! Obviously you have Mini in the blood! I will go back to the garage in the week and talk it over with them. All the best. Gav Southampton, UK
***** well got the garage to redo the oil seal under warranty...they had a good look as the bell housing was splatter caked ..not the oil seal after all oh no!! There was a growing crack in the gearbox casing around the diff bearing. Gearbox oil was leaking, not engine oil. Well, got a recon unit fitted now. All the best
Gav
You make it look so straight forward 🙈
Hey Modmini. I love your videos. I have an engine light for a faulty knock sensor. I was wondering if you have any experience of replacing them. It seems some people think you can do it without taking off the supercharger (removing the inlet manifold etc), but some people seem to suggest a full FESM supercharger removal. Any Advice would be most appreciated.
Knock sensor is behind the supercharger. I don't think it is possible to remove without removing supercharger.
Nice 👍
Is it possible to replace the gasket without placing the car in front end service mode?
I have started to notice the one little spot on the ground every time I finish driving it, need to investigate things a bit further for sure after watching this video
Hi, have referred to your videos dozens of times now. I have now got a crank no start 2005 cooper, am about to solder new batteries in the fobs, if that doesn't work is it worth me replacing the Crank sensor, and if so you said its possible without front end off, is it worth a try?
Regards J
This was doable without putting the car in service mode. Thanks for the video though!
Is there a specific serpentine removal tool for a 2005 Mini Cooper base model R50? According to Amazon the one on this link doesn't work with the Mini Cooper base model R50 and only on the superchaged models
Hi, I watched your video on the chain tensioner, first thanks for it. My 2006 r53 Cooper s had this problem. I caught it early, and decided to replace the tensioner. It was super easy. After replacing though, and letting it run for a while, the noise was still there, but nowhere near as bad, almost unnoticeable. Any advice?
youngji273 You might have a damaged chain guide rail. The only way to know for sure is to drop the oil pan (or maybe stick a camera scope in the oil drain plug hole.
Should you not use gasket sealant with the gasket ?
About to do this job on the 2005 S we just bought for my daughter. Can’t quite tell for sure if the oil pan gasket is leaking, but figure it’s not much more work to replace it while I have it torn apart. Aside from replacing the belt is there anything else I should do at 65,000 miles (yes only 65 k on this car!) while I have it in front end service mode? Should I replace the crank position sensor too?
It could also be crank position sensor or valve cover gasket, which always begin leaking sooner than the oil pan gasket. You'd have to study the oil moisture pattern(s) to correctly diagnose the source.
thanks
Ok thanks for replying. So when it locks will it be at top dead center?
+Rufus Biggs MINIs are not serviced at TDC. It will lock at the point where all pistons are at same height I believe. The cam will either be at the correct position or 180 degrees out of phase. Rotate the crank another 360 to put cam in the correct orientation. The rounded lobe at the tool interface should be facing down and the three flat lobes should be facing up, left and right.
thanks!, I was fixing the mini cooper s 2004, while I was test driving it engine just stall unexpectedly I tried but it doesn't start. I'm I correct if I say it is tge the pick up sensor?
+manic lokofe It could be a lot of things. Spark, crank, cam, knock, MAP sensor, fuel, wire came loose, etc.
I have a 09 Mini Cooper s that need a timing chain install could you tell me how to lock the crankshaft so I can pull off the chain.
+Rufus Biggs This video is for R50 and R53. You have an R56 and the procedure is different. Crankshaft is locked via a small hole in front of the bell housing near the exhaust on the bottom of the engine. You need this tool to lock it and the cams in place to do chain work. I'll be making a video in the next few weeks on this job. amzn.to/1U5B4oG
Brilliant
What crank pulley is that? I've been told it's a good idea to replace them if you're doing the front main seal. Hoping there's a better option than OEM
This is the best affordable replacement. amzn.to/2PuvsUS
Question, you might be able to answer. Oil drain plug gave a copper washer that goes with it? Did a job and added the oil change. Had this one washer left. Didn't know if it came from the drain plug or if it was part of the filter housing.
+Adam Barraclough Stock does not have a washer. Aftermarket might. The only copper washer I can think of is to a power steering banjo bolt or a brake line.
You have a Facebook page? I'll send you a pic see what you think.