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Отреставрируй мне мини карты р53

Need some help. My 06 R53 is leaking coolant from behind the engine (driver side). Could the thermostat housing could be the cause?

I hope you're still checking the comments on these posts. Great video's! How do you know if the ball joints are bad while they are still on the car?

Deep into my daughter's R53 ----------------- VERY VERY MUCH APPRECIATED VIDEO - old git, UK

Such great videos! Thank you!

You should have removed the valve cover earlier. It would have made removing some of the stuff behind the engine easier.

Did you used to make bmw repair videos as well? Thanks for this, super helpful! My 05 mini S has a surging feel during acceleration but no codes. Going to check the spring pressure right now 😀

my 05 R52 crank pulley has no grooves is this normal? just ordered the sfi from your link. i’m getting some squeal/slippage when revving-

Maaaaan you help out a lot cause that code came up

Thanks!

Any idea on the oil squirt torque setting/angle? Thanks

Excellent tutorial, thanks!

So.. moral of the story. Don't buy a mini cooper. Got it.

Wow, what a pain!!!

Thank you for providing this. Made replacing my filter much easier.

This helped out so much I now have a working window on my mini r50 tyvm for posting this !

So with this style of LSD featuring taper roller bearings, there is no need to verify preload/play in the differential? No shims?

Even in 2024 these R53 videos are priceless. We bought a ‘06 MCS in January and EVERY issue I’ve been able to do myself thanks to this channel.

Slightly confused because arp head bolts doesn’t state anything about 90 degrees only the 65ft lbs unless it’s changed now…

Luv your torquestimate, you can feel

Where to buy the tool and the kit

Backing music was way too loud....i could not hear you.

Thank you, Mod Mini, for the video and the many useful comments from your fans. I was able to get rid of the battery light on 2nd try (1st Amazon renewed alternator was a dud, but the second one, a TYC, fired right up, the light went away and the power steering came back, and confirmed that the 1st Bosch reman was a dud.) Yes, I found that working on the alternator from the top was easier; and the threaded rods are indeed M8…! Now I am better at putting the Mini in front-end service mode all thanks to you! Next project, supercharger service! I wonder if it’s possible to do it w/o disconnecting the coolant hose(s) or the a/c system…

Is this the best way to do a clutch too? Engine & trans removal as a unit and then separate?

We've missed ya

Thanks for everything over the years.

Great info and comments, i didnt think of removing heat shield or ps pump fan but i will. I might akso add to remove the right tire and degrease everything before u start and again after u finish, (u can define a leak location better with a clean engine) also with tire off its much easier to see and do everything

Fantastic Video. helped me change mine easily. One thing to mention that happened to me, was after it put everything back together i was getting ABS, Traction, And tire pressure lights on the dash. only thing that fixed it for me was reseting the tire pressure with the button by the brake lever. Not sure if this is normal when you pull the tires etc. but after a reset and a quick drive it went away. Great video

Have you put it on a dyno? I'd love to see the screen on torque curve and power curve. Cheers

If it was pre-ignition failure or an overheat from lean condition, you would’ve had smoke first before failure. Instead, you had failure and smoke after. you had a valve break, that killed your engine, I’m about 90% sure you had a valve break due to an issue with valve lash slamming the valves into the seats, allowing one valve to break loose, which then started beating up the piston and broke more valves off which then punched the hole through the piston and finally causing it to puff smoke. All of your piston damage is from the valve breaking off. If you had a lien scenario, it was probably only in the one cylinder due to a bad injector, but I don’t see any evidence of lean what I see is failed valve that completely destroyed your engine. I would contest that this should be covered by the entity that built your head you’re connecting rod and pistons that you currently have or sufficient enough. With the amount of damage, your piston sustained from the broke off valves that would explain the loose wrist pin because your piston was completely hammered to death. The piston had to give out first because that was the only place those valves could go they can’t exit through the top of the head so they have to exit the piston Valve dropped into pan. It bounced around inside your motor and took out the oiler. If you were running lean, you would be able to see heat damage on the valve stem component that was still remaining in the head. I do believe you’re being Upsal for pistons and connecting rods really isn’t a bad idea. Also same with the bearings. I believe it was a craftsmanship issue with the headwork that caused your problem. Very likely a defective valve was installed. I could hear your engine starting to sound a little off just before it dropped a valve then I could hear the valve train failure and then I could hear it punch through the piston and let the oil through. It’s very clear on the video so I would contest their suggested failure reason.

I’m about 90% sure you had a valve break due to an issue with valve lash slamming the valves into the seats, allowing one valve to break loose, which then started beating up the piston and broke more valves off which then punched the hole through the piston and finally causing it to puff smoke. All of your piston damage is from the valve breaking off. If you had a lien scenario, it was probably only in the one cylinder due to a bad injector, but I don’t see any evidence of lean what I see is failed valve that completely destroyed your engine. I would contest that this should be covered by the entity that built your head you’re connecting rod and pistons that you currently have or sufficient enough. With the amount of damage, your piston sustained from the broke off valves that would explain the loose wrist pin because your piston was completely hammered to death. The piston had to give out first because that was the only place those valves could go they can’t exit through the top of the head so they have to exit the piston Valve dropped into pan. It bounced around inside your motor and took out the oiler. If you were running lean, you would be able to see heat damage on the valve stem component that was still remaining in the head. I do believe you’re being Upsal for pistons and connecting rods really isn’t a bad idea. Also same with the bearings. I believe it was a craftsmanship issue with the headwork that caused your problem. Very likely a defective valve was installed. I could hear your engine starting to sound a little off just before it dropped a valve then I could hear the valve train failure and then I could hear it punch through the piston and let the oil through. It’s very clear on the video so I would contest their suggested failure reason.

Following this guide. I am stuck on “the toughest” bell housing bolt. Underneath the octopus wiring. Will keep going though

Not sure if anybody reads these comments, but how much harder is it to go ahead and replace the oil filter housing while replacing the gasket? Is it much more involved than what is seen in this video?

Thank you so much for your video, managed to fix my mini's AC for cheap and oh the feeling when you succeed! For the hidden nut, I had best luck using a joint socket to get the right angle, in case it helps someone else.

Do these change the geometry of the car at all?

5:40 there is not 2 thing - but 3 things: You missed to mention the steering wire connections! Ask me how I know... 🙂

Hi wondering if you could help as i am a bit stuck. I changed my engine in my 2006 cooper r50, when i did i put a new clutch in. When running engine in the clutch was perfect, and still is below 3500rpm. But now engine is run in above 3500 the clutch pedol drops about half way down (under load or just reving). So i removed slave cylinder and measured clutch arm movement with revs below 3500rpm and above, its the same. So bleed the system with slave compressed 3 times. No diff, so changed slave and bleed same way 5 times. No change, mechanics have looked at it and are lost. Next is master cylinder but dont se how it effect it. Below 3500rpm clutch pedal and clutch operation is perfect, and above still works perfectly but with half the pedal. Any info would be gratefully appreciated as in a few weeks will be driving round scotland. Your videos are brilliant and make my car a hobby.

How much of this is the head? Mine is about the same build minus head

you dont need to do all that .. just install the master cylinder and open the bleeder for 1 minute then put a stick on the clutch so it stay all the way down all night with the brake cap out .

Got blurry

You are a saint, thank you

This video was very helpful while changing my alternator! Thank you!

I noticed you did not do any measurements on the crankshaft with plastigage or anything similar. Is there a reason why?

Thanks to this excellent video i did it for a friend last weekend, it did take me just over a day and some lost blood but it all worked out ok! I raised it up on axle stands which helped. The "cord" that you pull to release the belt had me vexed but watching another short video on it made it a tad clearer. Good luck if you have fingers like sausages!

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this video. It helped a lot! My R53 just hit 100K on the odometer and the clutch was starting to slip in higher gears. You make the job look very easy but this job kicked my butt! I am glad that I didn't run into any issues after the install but if I had to do this job again, the R53 would be a distant memory!

All I can say is you sir are single handedly keeping so many Minis on the road. As much as it sucks to be back on the CZcamss again because something else has failed, we are all super lucky to have these absolutely fantastic DIY tutorials to walk those of us that aren’t mechanics easily through. Not sure if you still post and monitor your page, but just wanted to give a huge thank you.

I just did the job and i found a very easy way to do it with out the tool. If you look at the subframe there will be a gap on each side where you can fit a wrench on the inner tie rod and get it loose. all you have to so is turn the steering wheel a bit so you can get the wrench on and then i used a hammer to hit the wrench and it came loose without a hitch, hope it helps someone

Very helpful this video, thanks a lot. My new alternator is spinning in the Mini now.

Thank you for the video I was able to replace my mini Cooper r50 fuel filter.

Hey brother, not sure if you reply to this comment but I have a 2006 mini Cooper and it's a six speed but when I'm driving on the highway randomly the brakes will start to engage. I have to pull over once I come to turn the car off and then back on then I'm able to move again. I don't know what it would be causing the brakes like that