Your method for joining wires without solder or crimps intrigued me and sent me on a lengthy google search. My go-to has always been to solder connections in cars or motorcycles, but no more. I can't find anyone else who recommends your exact method of twisting plus shrink wrap, but I like it because it makes all the finished wires the same diameter as the insulated wire, or less. I'm not absolutely sure that a connection using your method can't be pulled apart, but that sort of strain will never occur in car or motorcycle wiring situation. Thanks!
Forget splicing in the extensions. I just ran all new lines from plug to plug. Use paperclip (pin tool $$$) to remove wire from plugs. No more time than splicing all that together and worrying about breaks. Nice clean and easy install.
I always do a parallel mechanical joint then use 7-12% silver solder which melts at a relatively low heat so it doesn’t damage the wires or jacket then heat shrink. I also group the wires inside two larger heat shrink tubes to double wrap them all after individually joining them. This way the original wire will break before any joint will.
Getting ready to do this. Thankfully wiring is already routed through the bars, but the bars are for a brand new road glide, and I'm putting them on an older softail. Brand new 16" Dominator 1.25 Meathooks for 200 bucks? Oh hell yeah. Soldering and heat shrinking all my wires with silver solder. I solder everything, even installing my car stereos.
I have those exact bars. Good luck trying to get the wires to make that sharp angle at the bottom. After a couple of years of driving with ugly black wires hangin from my bars, I got fed up and drilled two holes at the underside of each bar for the wires to exit. Looks way better and worked perfectly. I did solder each connection too.
Prior USAF avionics troop here and modern jet fighters use crimped connections. As with any connection, do it right. Crimped connections are less brittle and survive decades of use including pulling 9 G's in combat conditions. I don't mind soldering either where required (I started on Phantoms and Broncos) but if you use the proper crimper you'll be fine. Use ADHESIVE LINED heat shrink from an industrial supply house.Follow aircraft methods and practices and you can't go wrong.When you solder use a tip cleaning sponge and liquid flux. Dip the wire ends in flux then tin with your iron. CZcams has many videos for all that.
Hi Frank, Same as the one you are splicing to. Here's some more videos on the topic. www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/ and www.fixmyhog.com/videos/electrical/
Best way to pull wires through the bars... Pull 1 wire through that you don't need, put solder on one end, twist all your other ends together and put solder on them, then solder the single wire to your bunch and pull them through.. 5-10 minutes, depending on how hard it is to get the first wire through and how bent your bars are.
When extending wires like for ape hangers, I add wire, twist and solder (definitely) shrink then outside shielding so it looks nice. You must solder. I preferred to solder an electrical joint
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content. If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below: go.fixmyhog.com/C41949 Thanks!
Good evening. I have a question. I installed 18” apes on my 2014 road king non abs, I wired the bars internally with heat shrink, however my right blinker and oil light on the dash stays illuminated but when I put it in gear the oil light goes out. I also have no neutral light now. I pulled the wires back out to check for any disconnections or breaks and have found nothing. Any help is much appreciated. Thank you
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
Thomas LaRochelle Thats what I’m saying They sell a kit that has the connectors so you don’t have to cut solder and shrink. Won’t go to all of that trouble?
I found these nice wire splice connectors that you DO NOT CRIMP! you slide each wire ,one on each end and then use your heat gun. They have solder built into them so when you use the heat gun it solders as well as shrink wrap them waterproof all in one shot! They're the titties!
Dude screwed up, he was about to say how strong a mechanical twist is then it came loose. Best practice is slide the heat shrink on one end, mechanical twist, good but light smooth soilder with rosin core only, let cool, then heat shrink.
Thanks for viewing and the feedback, correct from weakest to strongest, mechanical twist, mechanical twist with heat shrink, mechanical twist with soilder and heat shrink at 6:50. Wrench safe
Dude I have done some wiring in my life but you showed me more in this video than I have learned from everybody else in my life. Thks
Was this dude featured on the Soprano's?
Holy F, yea he's a lil angy, but who's not!?
Love the tips brah, thanks.
-Frankie 2 fingas, from Philly
just stop by.....took about two seconds... I knew I was at the right place to get some good tips... thank you for being there... thank you
Your method for joining wires without solder or crimps intrigued me and sent me on a lengthy google search. My go-to has always been to solder connections in cars or motorcycles, but no more. I can't find anyone else who recommends your exact method of twisting plus shrink wrap, but I like it because it makes all the finished wires the same diameter as the insulated wire, or less. I'm not absolutely sure that a connection using your method can't be pulled apart, but that sort of strain will never occur in car or motorcycle wiring situation. Thanks!
Hi John, check out more at www.fixmyhog.com/video/proper-soldering-techniques-002186/
Used all this guys advice from the mechanical twist perspective. Worked perfect for my 16” ape install. Great video.
Great to hear!
Forget splicing in the extensions. I just ran all new lines from plug to plug. Use paperclip (pin tool $$$) to remove wire from plugs. No more time than splicing all that together and worrying about breaks. Nice clean and easy install.
Will Thomas like your idea!
where did you purchase from?
Just regular wires ? Or you bought a harness ??
I always do a parallel mechanical joint then use 7-12% silver solder which melts at a relatively low heat so it doesn’t damage the wires or jacket then heat shrink. I also group the wires inside two larger heat shrink tubes to double wrap them all after individually joining them. This way the original wire will break before any joint will.
Ain't no sleeping in this guys class, he looks dead serious.🤣🤣🤣
Getting ready to do this. Thankfully wiring is already routed through the bars, but the bars are for a brand new road glide, and I'm putting them on an older softail. Brand new 16" Dominator 1.25 Meathooks for 200 bucks? Oh hell yeah. Soldering and heat shrinking all my wires with silver solder. I solder everything, even installing my car stereos.
I have those exact bars. Good luck trying to get the wires to make that sharp angle at the bottom. After a couple of years of driving with ugly black wires hangin from my bars, I got fed up and drilled two holes at the underside of each bar for the wires to exit. Looks way better and worked perfectly. I did solder each connection too.
Yep saw that mod on a mates bike two days ago.
Prior USAF avionics troop here and modern jet fighters use crimped connections. As with any connection, do it right. Crimped connections are less brittle and survive decades of use including pulling 9 G's in combat conditions. I don't mind soldering either where required (I started on Phantoms and Broncos) but if you use the proper crimper you'll be fine. Use ADHESIVE LINED heat shrink from an industrial supply house.Follow aircraft methods and practices and you can't go wrong.When you solder use a tip cleaning sponge and liquid flux. Dip the wire ends in flux then tin with your iron. CZcams has many videos for all that.
Nice video mate
You are my hero!
Thanks for the tip on the mechanical twist splicing. My only question is what gauge of extra wiring should be used?
Hi Frank, Same as the one you are splicing to. Here's some more videos on the topic. www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/ and www.fixmyhog.com/videos/electrical/
Best way to pull wires through the bars... Pull 1 wire through that you don't need, put solder on one end, twist all your other ends together and put solder on them, then solder the single wire to your bunch and pull them through.. 5-10 minutes, depending on how hard it is to get the first wire through and how bent your bars are.
When extending wires like for ape hangers, I add wire, twist and solder (definitely) shrink then outside shielding so it looks nice. You must solder. I preferred to solder an electrical joint
True www.fixmyhog.com/video/proper-soldering-techniques-002186/
Excellent info. Thanks.
Might be best to use a heat shrink connector and then heat shrink the whole harness where the connection are made
Very informative.. Thanks a lot
Thank you
Quick question I have bought a ape hanger kit but my switch is a
Aftermarket one so the colour of the wires are different does this matter?
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below:
go.fixmyhog.com/C41949
Thanks!
Have your manual and wiring diagram and watch our multi hour handlebar series: www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/
Good evening. I have a question. I installed 18” apes on my 2014 road king non abs, I wired the bars internally with heat shrink, however my right blinker and oil light on the dash stays illuminated but when I put it in gear the oil light goes out. I also have no neutral light now. I pulled the wires back out to check for any disconnections or breaks and have found nothing. Any help is much appreciated. Thank you
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
Visit our site and over 10 hrs on handelbar swaps:
www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/
Visit our Tech Q&A on Handlebars:
www.fixmyhog.com/post/tag/handlebars-posts/
ALWAYS SOLDER! Just "mechanical twist" an heat shrink calls for intermittent problems. Just sayin'
I would say mechanical twist, solder, crimp and then shield it with heat shrink.
True www.fixmyhog.com/video/proper-soldering-techniques-002186/
What problems? I could see under extreme conditions of some sort but just cruisin on the weekend I think a good twist and shrink would be fine.
I replaced my tbw and it comes with 2sets if red, black, and white. A yellow set and a black set. What colors do these wires connect to?
Stop by our site for more videos on TBW:www.fixmyhog.com/video/adding-pin-connectors-extended-wire-harness-004625/
Dear friend, hello from Brazil.
This method will work in a harley with can bus? Softail 2011 fat boy.
Thanks a lot.
Hi mate which size wires I can use to extend the stock wires? Thanks
Hello, depends on the new bars, stop by our site and learn more - www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/
@@FixMyHogfreechannel sorry I think I was not clear in the msg. What type of wire I can use to extend the stock wire? How many gauge or size
@@isingh8771 Check out the link we sent, we review wire size, connectors, extensions and more.
Why cut the harness and extensions when they already have the pins on the ends to just plug together?
Thomas LaRochelle Thats what I’m saying
They sell a kit that has the connectors so you don’t have to cut solder and shrink.
Won’t go to all of that trouble?
The extensions have pins to plug into the factory pins. These two pins together make a large section to travel thru the bars, they are hard to bend.
I wired my bars up..plugged everything in on the bike..horn and light on speedometer works. .nothing else. ..any ideas
+bubbles12376 Many things can go wrong with this type of project. We did a whole class on it. Check it out:
www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/
Pon la traducción
I found these nice wire splice connectors that you DO NOT CRIMP! you slide each wire ,one on each end and then use your heat gun. They have solder built into them so when you use the heat gun it solders as well as shrink wrap them waterproof all in one shot! They're the titties!
Should have been tips on cutting wires . My grandma could have showed me that .
Hi - this video was one of many in our Handlebar install series, check it out: www.fixmyhog.com/videos/handlebars/
Dude screwed up, he was about to say how strong a mechanical twist is then it came loose. Best practice is slide the heat shrink on one end, mechanical twist, good but light smooth soilder with rosin core only, let cool, then heat shrink.
Thanks for viewing and the feedback, correct from weakest to strongest, mechanical twist, mechanical twist with heat shrink, mechanical twist with soilder and heat shrink at 6:50. Wrench safe
Totally right on the screw-up and attempted recivery.
why leave it alone yuppie
No way doing that without soldering.
True www.fixmyhog.com/video/proper-soldering-techniques-002186/
good video , but lay off the whiskey u shaking like a leaf.
That's the Italian in him not the whiskey!
Yeah man, if he didn't have his forearms on the table, he wouldn't have been able to get the wires together.
Good advice