IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2019 || Boulder finals

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  • čas přidán 4. 05. 2019
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Komentáře • 242

  • @fabiandoliana9433
    @fabiandoliana9433 Před 5 lety +464

    W1 29:56
    W2 48:35
    W3 1:14:00
    W4 1:31:30
    M1 1:58:29
    M2 2:23:26
    M3 2:46:43
    M4 3:11:40

  • @GB-yp4ff
    @GB-yp4ff Před 5 lety +208

    Janja Garnbret is just on a different level, the way she crushed that last boulder like it was a warm-up problem, while the others struggled with beta - crazy stuff!

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop Před 5 lety +47

      That's basically every event this year. They should let her complete in the men's comp. I'm pretty sure she could hold her own there.

    • @mathjoker
      @mathjoker Před 5 lety +7

      Where was she last year? She's so far ahead of everyone else that I'd have thought she'd have won a bunch last year as well. It seems like she's a shoe-in for Olympic gold, even if she comes in 8th in speed (because her lead climbing is pretty great too). So much hype about Adam but while he is certainly very good he's not on another level like Janja is. The hype must be from his outdoor climbing.

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop Před 5 lety +6

      @@mathjoker She came in #1 or #2 in every bouldering world cup comp last year and the year before, and was top 3 in every lead world cup over the same period of time.
      en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janja_Garnbret_in_the_Climbing_World_Cup

    • @Gytax0
      @Gytax0 Před 5 lety +6

      @@mathjoker Adam is not winning every world cup because there are a ton of other great male climbers. The top athletes are at a similar level - every podium is different. For women, it's pretty much always gold for Janja, silver for Akiyo and then come the rest.

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop Před 5 lety

      @@Gytax0 To be fair, he was sick AF after the Moscow comp for a few weeks which is why he missed the last one.

  • @NageIfar
    @NageIfar Před 5 lety +65

    SPOILER WOMENS FINALS
    Akiyo hugging/congratulating Ai was so precious. First finals and already a medal, huge props

  • @samcoren8437
    @samcoren8437 Před 5 lety +92

    1:54:49 great interview questions...
    ‘Hey what’s it like to win’ , ‘it rained last time’, ‘ok see ya’

    • @OIFenrirOI
      @OIFenrirOI Před 5 lety +3

      And this is his only job, right? :D Together with the robotic voice it gave me a good laugh^^

    • @finnbruton7274
      @finnbruton7274 Před 5 lety +1

      S C lol I was thinking the exact same 😂

  • @ItzSkillful
    @ItzSkillful Před 5 lety +88

    Happy to see Tomoa final snag gold. Seems a lot of people are on the Ondra bandwagon (understandable, whats not to love), but Tomoa's been exceptionally consistent this season. 2 silvers and a gold - a podium on every event he's competed at!
    No surprise Janja won again. Seems like if its possible for other competitors to top a boulder, Janja will undoubtable do it as well... Truly Amazing.

  • @eadelindizon9514
    @eadelindizon9514 Před 5 lety +52

    kai harada flashing that route that nobody else could top. dayumm

    • @crescentfuze
      @crescentfuze Před 5 lety +3

      Like Jernej in Moscow on M4 and Anze last cup.

    • @dailynotinteresting4325
      @dailynotinteresting4325 Před 4 lety +6

      Really an amazing effort to keep the race for first going. Personally, I don't think the controversial top was a top (didn't seem to have control), but fortunately it didn't impact the rankings one way or another, just kept some amount of tension to the fourth boulder.

  • @jacobpenner1923
    @jacobpenner1923 Před 5 lety +27

    Janja is truly on another level, flashed a powerful boulder (W2) that no one else could even top 😳 If setters made all of the boulder problems even harder in the finals we would see just how far ahead she really is. But I get that seeing everyone else struggle and fail at all of the boulders wouldn't be very entertaining.

  • @TheRagballer
    @TheRagballer Před 5 lety +65

    Always hope Kyra does well, but she's a great commentator

  • @horrorfan1122
    @horrorfan1122 Před 4 lety +31

    Kyra Condie was a fantastic commentator, I hope we get to hear more from her.

  • @bearyai216
    @bearyai216 Před 5 lety +75

    Miho is back ❤️

  • @1234tetsutetsu
    @1234tetsutetsu Před 5 lety +65

    Congrats to Ai for her first podium.

  • @konradtheman
    @konradtheman Před 5 lety +21

    1:07:59 "Yeah, I have to say the DJ has been one of the best ones that we've had on the IFSC. We've had ACDC, Creedence Clearwater, but this is one of his first own goals." - Charlie Boscoe being savage

  • @Couldnotexplain
    @Couldnotexplain Před 4 lety +17

    DJ: "I know what these competitors want to hear. Every AC/DC song ever."

  • @tibuwi7059
    @tibuwi7059 Před 5 lety +29

    Janja just flew up the last boulder o.O

  • @mrjm6752
    @mrjm6752 Před 5 lety +7

    Been bouldering every week for a year. Just found these video on youtube ... Thanks for the endless hour of fun that are ahead of me !

  • @epincion
    @epincion Před 5 lety +23

    Excellent coverage, thanks to all the commentators.

  • @kamron_thurmond
    @kamron_thurmond Před 5 lety +16

    Janja and Akiyo are phenomenal female climbers.

    • @cyrillemiller8798
      @cyrillemiller8798 Před 5 lety +8

      Kamron Thurmond **phenomenal climbers

    • @kamron_thurmond
      @kamron_thurmond Před 5 lety +1

      @@cyrillemiller8798 Changing that sort of ruins what I was going for there, because if said outloud "female" and "phenomenal" have very similar sounding beginning parts of the words and kind of rhyme, but sure go all P.C. on me.

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety +1

      @@kamron_thurmond I enjoyed your word play and I always assume the best in people. you be you. ignore the rabble

  • @arnaudb1653
    @arnaudb1653 Před 5 lety +223

    1:51:38 RIP headphone users

  • @asdfasdfsd
    @asdfasdfsd Před 5 lety +20

    My parents were watching this at the scene. This event is amazing and thrilling!

    • @user-fo5dl6cf7r
      @user-fo5dl6cf7r Před rokem

      really?

    • @asdfasdfsd
      @asdfasdfsd Před rokem

      @@user-fo5dl6cf7r It held in Suzhou of China, We live here and fortunately very close to the event venue. It just takes about 30 minutes to ride there.

    • @user-fo5dl6cf7r
      @user-fo5dl6cf7r Před rokem

      @@asdfasdfsd lol I was just joking , I believe you

  • @tonyluvbalony6837
    @tonyluvbalony6837 Před 3 lety +2

    I would like to say a “every Tamoa Narasaki fistbump compilation” on this channel

  • @danielkrenn6717
    @danielkrenn6717 Před 5 lety +23

    Great event as always - except some music choices in the women finals (1:14:53 & 1:24:28) I found quite an embarrassment!

  • @damluar
    @damluar Před 5 lety +88

    Camera work is so horrible, someone call Eric Karlsson please!

    • @davidvenus8783
      @davidvenus8783 Před 5 lety +3

      waaay better than it used to be imo

    • @yolyperu4695
      @yolyperu4695 Před 5 lety +2

      The curtains 🙈

    • @vesuveking3465
      @vesuveking3465 Před 5 lety +3

      Who da fook is Eric Karlsson

    • @Lilianna731
      @Lilianna731 Před 5 lety

      @@vesuveking3465 Eric Karlsson is a climber who has a very popular youtube channel :)

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 Před 4 lety +7

    Last boulder for Janja... awsome !!!
    She is so easily dominating her competitors...
    .

  • @crescentfuze
    @crescentfuze Před 5 lety +4

    3:17:44 Really cool movement and synced with the music!

  • @polaide8036
    @polaide8036 Před rokem +8

    Janja pushing domination to a new level.
    Big thanks to Kyra for co-commenting. It's great to have her insight.

  • @BonTravellerFreedom
    @BonTravellerFreedom Před 4 lety +1

    ขอบคุณครับ ฉันชอบดูมาก

  • @NickRoman
    @NickRoman Před 3 lety +3

    If Miho Nonaka had not pulled herself up on that first boulder, I think she would have had it, but pulling up added a little extra force and that caused the slip. Still, obviously the second method was more secure anyway.

  • @jeremiahd2209
    @jeremiahd2209 Před 5 lety +14

    We need to gofundme a trip to Flatanger for Janja. Who's with me?

    • @lmnts556
      @lmnts556 Před 5 lety +3

      Norway is my home, I welcome her!

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 Před 4 lety +3

    Jakob Schubert against the japanese armada, congratulations on bronze!
    .

  • @siavash119
    @siavash119 Před 5 lety +2

    You'd think the judges would wait for after the round to consider the appeal. Doing so would give the contestants more equal break time. They waited to update the scoreboard...

  • @Atom.Storm.
    @Atom.Storm. Před 5 lety +30

    I'm sitting here on torn ligaments from a 4b and these guys are dyno'ing everest

  • @rachelnanshija251
    @rachelnanshija251 Před 5 lety

    Anyone else unable to watch past about 2:47:00? Whole video loaded fine until that point, now it wont load at all.

  • @NickRoman
    @NickRoman Před 3 lety +2

    wow, Akiyo Noguichi just killed that first boulder. Murdered it. lol

  • @catweston2101
    @catweston2101 Před 5 lety +9

    Great final!! Love actually getting some separation among the women 🥰🥰 who commentated on the female final??

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop Před 5 lety +6

      The female commentator was Kyra Condie.

    • @catweston2101
      @catweston2101 Před 5 lety

      @@DesmondRayBeltrop thanks!

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety +1

      100% agree. The sets were to soft again for the Women second event running. Basically, a flashing contest.

    • @LucianaFujii
      @LucianaFujii Před 5 lety +5

      Agree! Would have been even better if the zone from w2 was the next one.

    • @catweston2101
      @catweston2101 Před 5 lety +2

      @@LucianaFujii for sure - Akiyo climbed much further yet got nothing for it!

  • @miat789
    @miat789 Před 4 lety

    Im new to all of this but why is it that the obstacles are not automatically scrubbed in between competitors ?

  • @morphling337
    @morphling337 Před 5 lety +7

    I find this scoring system absurd when Akiyo's performance 101:00 gets scored the same as the two women that went before her. It should be points for EACH hold that you pass/control, because there is a world of difference there that isn't being quantified or captured in the results. It's so so stupid.

  • @JoelSchnall
    @JoelSchnall Před 5 lety +6

    Out of curiosity, do competitors have to turn in their cell phones before heading into isolation? Could they potentially watch their competition on this live stream?

  • @furyofbongos
    @furyofbongos Před 5 lety +4

    The close-up shots are useless if we don't get to see the lunge towards the hold. This happens all the time with these shoots, please show all the hold grabs. Otherwise what are we watching other than just a closeup of the face and elbows?

    • @epincion
      @epincion Před 5 lety +3

      The problem is that IFSC are not responsible for the camerawork - that's done by a Chinese TV network.

    • @furyofbongos
      @furyofbongos Před 5 lety +2

      @@epincion That makes sense, however, I've seen the exact same problem on other events on this channel in other countries.

    • @epincion
      @epincion Před 5 lety +2

      Its actually gotten a lot better over the years , I remember when it was filmed with a potato.

  • @omershossberger5528
    @omershossberger5528 Před 5 lety +2

    Does Miho wear unreleased tenaya shoes or she just painted in red her oasi?

    • @reccy231
      @reccy231 Před 5 lety

      Those look like the new 5.10 Aleons

  • @jasper374
    @jasper374 Před 5 lety +3

    Do people get to try the boulders after the event?

    • @jasper374
      @jasper374 Před 5 lety +8

      So basically touching the first hold

  • @pavelb2751
    @pavelb2751 Před 5 lety +2

    anyone know the song at 3:16:50 Jan Hojer doing M4?

  • @GabbGangen
    @GabbGangen Před 5 lety +24

    I learned a new word watching this: penultimate! 😆

  • @JMnyJohns
    @JMnyJohns Před 2 lety +2

    Janja W4 in 14 seconds. Aye Caramba!

  • @clee2865
    @clee2865 Před 5 lety +4

    Janja is from outta space👽👽👽

  • @beimberni6952
    @beimberni6952 Před 5 lety +3

    Good Dj and nice Problems =)

  • @Fogmeister
    @Fogmeister Před 5 lety +1

    Who is the man commentating?

  • @wattsyvfx
    @wattsyvfx Před 4 lety +1

    "penultimate" means "second to last" not "last" or "highest".....

  • @omershossberger5528
    @omershossberger5528 Před 5 lety +12

    Why during the male final the dj didn't play songs like "you ____ thing" (1:14:53) or "___ bomb" (1:24:28)?

  • @pkampsmugo
    @pkampsmugo Před 5 lety +3

    Did you guys ever asked Jan Hojer to be co-commentator?

    • @epincion
      @epincion Před 5 lety +8

      Jan has been a commentator in the past. The best in my opinion was Alex Megos, he was a riot.

    • @philipppuchner1115
      @philipppuchner1115 Před 5 lety +1

      @@epincion jup, Megos is a funny dude (not just the looks of his legs) :))

  • @laurensalkemade7985
    @laurensalkemade7985 Před 5 lety +19

    2:21:22 guy leaves grease behind
    2:21:45 kokoro slips
    :P

  • @almendras7426
    @almendras7426 Před 5 lety +44

    Nerf Janja please.

    • @its_a_ducky3467
      @its_a_ducky3467 Před 5 lety +5

      I think she used fly-hacks to get to the top of the last boulder

  • @florianmarks2876
    @florianmarks2876 Před 2 lety +1

    imagine you are one of the female competitors and you just struggled hard on w4 and then janja comes out and makes it look like the warm up wall

  • @DesmondRayBeltrop
    @DesmondRayBeltrop Před 5 lety +6

    Fantastic setting for the men, all problems topped but no 4/4 by anyone.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety +2

      yes, agree. however, again an advantage to the short climbs per the usual

    • @yannlisicki790
      @yannlisicki790 Před 5 lety +1

      @@jcrotty18 Totally agree but unfortunately there is no good solution for this besides splitting into height categories. Kinda like weight categories in boxing.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety +3

      @@yannlisicki790 It seems there is still a general unwritten rule in play that "thou shall not set anything the shortest climber can not reasonably have a chance at." On the contrary setters seemingly have no issue with creating bunchy problems with high feet that only the smaller climbers excel at. Look at finals M1 for example. At first glance it looked like a taller climber would have a decent chance at the crux top, but with the right heel beta it was too high for taller climbers. Tomoa solved it brilliantly with that high heel and a great stab to the top hold. My favorite example was semis M1 vs M4. It was obvious that taller climbers hand the advantage on M1 as it was a fairly long move to the top. However, it was flashed by two climbers; Jan Hojer and Kai Harada. The tallest and shortest climbers respectively! On semis M4 not one tall climber in the field gained the top; Ondra, Hojer, Kruder, etc. Yet the smaller climbers such as Harada, Tomoa, etc. had not issue with the very bunched up moves from the zone to the top. My personal take is there is a built in bias against tall climbers and a general lack of understanding and thought on how to set routes that are fair regardless of size.

  • @user-xr9zm3zr8v
    @user-xr9zm3zr8v Před 5 lety +6

    bouldering Japan cup

  • @wibby2143
    @wibby2143 Před 5 lety +5

    fire that dj

  • @MattPellegrini91
    @MattPellegrini91 Před 5 lety +18

    Women start 0:30:00
    Men start 1:58:25

  • @athousandlives7231
    @athousandlives7231 Před 5 lety +11

    2:41:21 Glitch in the Matrix 🤣

  • @simonshackleton5835
    @simonshackleton5835 Před 4 lety +2

    3:33:20 adam ondra back left?

  • @cyrushyk
    @cyrushyk Před 5 lety +4

    That cameraman needs to stop taking close-up shot of face and cuting off the rest of the climber!

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety

      they were doing what they were told, and it could have been switched to other cameras to "fix" it, but I agree with you. Their job should have been - Look at that climber until you cant anymore, then stay still. Next camera on the next climber, same rules. one camera on a long away shot to fill in the gap. Mickey Mouse job for sure.

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety +1

      Oh you mean when the climber is on the wall. YES! super annoying not being able to see the foot work especially.

  • @TScorpio204
    @TScorpio204 Před 5 lety +3

    Is Adam Ondra not competing?

    • @musicman24X
      @musicman24X Před 5 lety +9

      He didn't make it through semis

    • @TScorpio204
      @TScorpio204 Před 5 lety +2

      Oh wow, surprising. Thanks

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop Před 5 lety +1

      He didn't make the finals.

    • @dr.gernotmayer111
      @dr.gernotmayer111 Před 5 lety +4

      He is too big for the short people setting, so its a japanese show...🤣 dont like it...kind of boring...

    • @samanthasemi8398
      @samanthasemi8398 Před 5 lety +37

      ​@@dr.gernotmayer111 Except for the fact that Jan Hojer is even taller than Adam Ondra and still made the final. So saying that the routes were set for short people is just not correct. Given the super competitive field one cannot expect Adam to get into every final, there is no shame in that, he is still one of the best (or maybe the best) climber out there. However, blaming the route setters for him not getting into the final is just incorrect in my opinion

  • @jaimer.e.mendez9927
    @jaimer.e.mendez9927 Před 5 lety +2

    Where is Ondra?

  • @enderlain385
    @enderlain385 Před rokem +1

    Shoulder strength and perfect height to weight ratio. Janja probably wouldn't be beaten in boulders. Setters should probably go for shorter and more crimpy problems to stop her

  • @scytaletleilax
    @scytaletleilax Před 5 lety +5

    3:24:45 WTF how is this possible???

  • @olivergilmartin
    @olivergilmartin Před 5 lety +5

    ***SPOILER ALERT***
    HOLY CRAP Janja is a different species. 😮😮😮

  • @cheznikos
    @cheznikos Před 5 lety +5

    Decent comp. Janja too strong though. Wonder if she could make semis in the men's

  • @nicolewong3687
    @nicolewong3687 Před 5 lety +2

    Who’s the female commentator?

    • @isobel6959
      @isobel6959 Před 5 lety +2

      Kyra Condie

    • @ItzSkillful
      @ItzSkillful Před 5 lety +2

      Kyra Condie - Womens US National Team

    • @nicolewong3687
      @nicolewong3687 Před 5 lety +2

      @@ItzSkillful oh nice. she's got a great voice

    • @yolyperu4695
      @yolyperu4695 Před 5 lety

      She's talking really quick for a not native speaker 🙄

  • @sonne5528
    @sonne5528 Před 5 lety +4

    Why is Shauna not competing ?

  • @danielhdoro
    @danielhdoro Před 5 lety +2

    I feel bad for Julia Chanourdie. I can only hope this result didn't get her questioning her skills.

  • @timchristiansen3642
    @timchristiansen3642 Před 5 lety

    1:04:10 "i dont wan to give the results away, but the guy who won broke his PB in his last 3 races" witch means who ever make PB in the kvaterfinals and semifinals will win -_-

  • @furyofbongos
    @furyofbongos Před 5 lety +4

    2:59:38 - here is an example of bad camera work. He is moving his feet which is critical yet the camera does not show it at all. This is very frustrating. Please improve the camera work.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety +2

      To be frank this was the best event camera work wise they have ever had in Asia.

    • @nicolapace5089
      @nicolapace5089 Před 5 lety

      This year camera work is just frustrating. No event since now had a decent service. Someone needs to teach them how this sport should be filmed.

  • @Neerav3984
    @Neerav3984 Před 5 lety +5

    Feels like Janja Garnbret s alien :)

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety +1

      She has suction cups for hands

  • @scytaletleilax
    @scytaletleilax Před 5 lety +6

    1:51:38 WTF it scared me :(

  • @hansmair6961
    @hansmair6961 Před 4 lety +1

    Any Doping Controls?

  • @peterhammer6915
    @peterhammer6915 Před 5 lety +3

    No drama needed today as 4 flashes. In the mens hoping the Japanese not to win and in the womens hoping them to win. Neither did happen :(

    • @Quetzacoatl85
      @Quetzacoatl85 Před 5 lety +2

      why would you hope for the japanese not to win? they're always such great competitors

    • @philipppuchner1115
      @philipppuchner1115 Před 5 lety

      woman - women! Not womens. There also no childrens, postmens etc. ;)

  • @fluffypuppy92
    @fluffypuppy92 Před 2 lety +1

    2:59:59 I don't think Kai get through the top

  • @kiriappeee
    @kiriappeee Před 5 lety +1

    The DJ's from this leg have been hype. Semi finals deffo rocked harder but dang. They played sex bomb (mixed) too 😂

  • @cimfonica01
    @cimfonica01 Před 4 lety +5

    Such a sad era for female climbers. So many strong climbers like Akiyo, Miho and Jessie. All fighting for second and third place...

  • @wojecire
    @wojecire Před 3 lety +4

    someone needs to sit down with these camera people and kindly ask them to make sure 2 hands and 2 feet are in the picture at all times when someone is on the wall.

    • @jk-qe3jj
      @jk-qe3jj Před rokem

      No, you don't get it. The cinematic effect is much more important than the viewers seeing what the hell the climber is doing.

  • @einfach_noelle
    @einfach_noelle Před 3 lety +3

    13:01 3 Japanese men, 4 Japanese women... count again 😂

  • @ATLTraveler
    @ATLTraveler Před 4 lety +1

    Go adam!!

  • @philipp-w
    @philipp-w Před 5 lety +10

    Why so many dislikes? 🤔

    • @leopoldomanni6509
      @leopoldomanni6509 Před 5 lety +1

      i do me the same question

    • @infectednetwork
      @infectednetwork Před 5 lety +6

      my guess would be because the camera angles suck

    • @Kooksrifles
      @Kooksrifles Před 5 lety +1

      I had to refresh the stream for about 30 times... soooo many interruptions, horrible.

    • @philipp-w
      @philipp-w Před 5 lety +1

      @@Kooksrifles yeah possible

    • @Solwa54
      @Solwa54 Před 5 lety +4

      The stream started over an hour and a half before the event, with nothing but the still frame to watch. If people were relying on the CZcams channel to know when the competition started, that may certainly explain the dislikes. Anyway, just a guess.

  • @rhielwager4308
    @rhielwager4308 Před 3 lety

    . janja😍😘💪

  • @tomnichlson
    @tomnichlson Před 5 lety +1

    Terrible camera work

  • @driftwoodization
    @driftwoodization Před 3 lety

    To become olympic you have to ask the Girl., the people and the Universe.
    Or you climb.

  • @moacarlsson7947
    @moacarlsson7947 Před 4 lety +2

    JANJA GARNBRET is the best!!!!
    like if you agre

  • @jcrotty18
    @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety +6

    Good event. Best camera work to date, for Asia, compared to other historical events like Chongqing last week which was pretty poor. Women sets were too soft and yet another final was a flashing contest. I feel sorry for Akiyo as the tallest competitor she often gets raw deal on one problem and she almost never gets an advantage for her extra size. For example, in today's women final it was painfully obvious that it was a big advantage to be smaller at the top of W2 when having shorter legs and overall smaller body was very helpful. Glad the men comp saw harder sets but here too huge advantage to the smaller climbers on M3 slab problem. It seems the unwritten rules are that nothing can be set that is too reachy for smaller climbers but the setters seem to have no issue with creating bunch/scrunch problems that the taller folks are at a total disadvantage on.

    • @mathjoker
      @mathjoker Před 5 lety +1

      Akiyo got the place she deserved though. Even if she had topped W2 she would have come in 2nd. Janja is just so much better that they basically have to hope she has an super off day to have any chance at winning.
      There does seem to be a bias against tall climbers in general. It's probably because something reachy can be literally impossible for a shorter climber, while something scrunchy is just harder for a tall climber, not impossible. It's a common myth that being tall is an advantage in climbing but that's been disproved many times.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety

      ​@@mathjoker Not true. The only problem Akiyo did not top was W2. If the situation was reversed and the setters created say a long reach problem or a power set that only Akiyo could top then she wins. Recall that Akiyo flashed W1 and Janja took two tries from the zone to top. It was, as have been all the women's finals, a flashing comp for the top two or three females. Janja has been incredible this season, but I think her success has everything to do with good reads, a small advantage in that almost all of the sets fit her smaller body better than Akiyo, and an overall lack of any power setting. The last one, no power sets, and the prevalence of the "new" style of volumes, jumps, and trick moves has allowed the lead route climbers like Janja, Pilz, Miho, etc. to not only be on equal footing with the boulders but to have a shot to win almost every comp.

    • @DavidAKSlo
      @DavidAKSlo Před 5 lety

      Joseph Crotty isn Janja not just 1cm shorter than Akiyo?
      164 cm vs 165cm?
      Just because you are a fan of some other climber, there is no need to look for every possible excuse to justify Janja’s dominance. You shouldn’t even be watching sports. What you are doing is very unsportsmanlike and disrespectful.
      And it is also silly...
      1 cm is the difference in height. Janja is a midget.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 Před 5 lety

      @@DavidAKSlo Wikipedia and other sources say they are 1 cm difference but my eyes tell me differently. Akiyo is closer to 2-3" taller or about 5cm. They don't have the same build either as Akiyo has longer legs which was obvious on W2.

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety

      @@jcrotty18 just a side note, but Akayo and Janja are both 5'5, so no size difference. Janja is stronger and has greater grip strength .. or has suction cups for hands. I'm still undecided.
      Agreed though. Her reads are fantastic and she knows what she is capable of.

  • @dante4838
    @dante4838 Před 5 lety +6

    Nerf Janja pls

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety

      maybe next patch

  • @CGagnon5
    @CGagnon5 Před 5 lety +1

    M3 was terrible. Route setters should be ashamed of that problem

  • @Kooksrifles
    @Kooksrifles Před 5 lety +4

    Sooooo many stream crashes. Had to refresh the page for about 30 times (no exageration). Any one else have these problems?!

  • @MiMaTak
    @MiMaTak Před 2 lety

    wtaching this video now... the voice of the female commentator is so irritating I had to turn the sound off

  • @alexandertoth363
    @alexandertoth363 Před 2 lety +1

    Japanese Championships

  • @eliboninger431
    @eliboninger431 Před 5 lety +22

    "its so hard for the routesetters to set for female climbers" just get a female routesetter damn

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl Před 5 lety +3

      she just meant that the routesetters aren't as flexible as the female climbers, so its hard for them to judge what might be possible on a problem

    • @suterde
      @suterde Před 4 lety +2

      Or set route the same way as for men, and we will show you we can do that too

    • @crisppy3691
      @crisppy3691 Před 4 lety +3

      @@suterde doubt

    • @MarkCrimper
      @MarkCrimper Před 4 lety +4

      I don't understand why route setters set differently for women. Sure most women may be shorter than men but there are also shorter men that have to do the same problem as taller male climbers. Both still have to be really strong, flexible, coordinated, etc... So many of the same skill sets are shared. Therefore, I don't know why you would set differently for women. Can someone give a good explanation?

    • @huddrez99
      @huddrez99 Před 4 lety +3

      @@MarkCrimper Women simply are not as physically strong as men. So boulders have to be "easier" for them.

  • @bxatch
    @bxatch Před 4 lety

    Ba-nah-na

  • @skiltrauma8154
    @skiltrauma8154 Před 5 lety

    Olympics 2020

  • @sinekonata
    @sinekonata Před 4 lety +1

    @ About to make everyone else look like noobs. Kai thinks for 15" then tops it in 30"...

  • @Gamikom
    @Gamikom Před 4 lety +1

    Blind judges, disliked...

  • @Giniaer
    @Giniaer Před 4 lety

    They make the boulders so only the Asia people can reach, so smart

  • @crispyboing
    @crispyboing Před 4 lety +2

    worst crowd ever?

  • @neo778
    @neo778 Před 5 lety +1

    Please no spoilers here in the comments!

    • @ONCEuponAtime999
      @ONCEuponAtime999 Před 5 lety +3

      dont read the comments before you watched the video. simply as that

    • @halneufmille
      @halneufmille Před 5 lety +2

      Pretty much takes out the whole point of comments.

  • @jipgossink
    @jipgossink Před 3 lety

    2:59:20