@@Gynz. Matt groom does the commenting for IFSC normally with one climber who did not make finals. He also hosts climbing daily on epic TV if you want to see some more of his work
Boulder 1 Boulder 2 13:07 Stasa Gejo 35:17 17:43 Brooke Raboutou 39:30 20:46 Andrea Kümin 42:38 25:24 Elena Krasovskaia 47:03 29:45 Camilla Moroni 49:53 33:17 Natalia Grossman 51:54 Boulder 3 Boulder 4 55:17 Stasa Gejo 1:18:50 59:53 Brooke Raboutou 1:21:32 1:04:34 Andrea Kümin 1:26:20 1:09:15 Elena Krasovskaia 1:30:39 1:11:26 Camilla Moroni 1:35:18 1:16:02 Natalia Grossman 1:37:24 Someone did this for the Men's finals and I thought I could do it for this one too! Much deserved, the route setting and climbing was cooler :)
One of the best competitions I've ever seen. Really amazing and varied route setting that really allowed each climber to shine in different ways. It was incredible to watch. Also after the olympics, OLYMPICS, THIS IS WHAT IT'S SUPPOSED TO LOOK AND SOUND LIKE. This is what 5 star commentators sounds like.
Yes! I find that in general the women's routesetting tends to be better than the men's, because they set creative problems that require a blend of strength, technique, flexibility, and explosiveness, whereas the men usually have problems that demand insane levels of strength or crazy coordination dynos that leave us stuck watching everybody fail a thousand times on the same moves and we usually end up only seeing one or two tops and a few zones. It shouldn't be this frustrating to watch or to actually compete, it takes away from the excitement and epicness of the event and makes it boring for new viewers. It sucks when nobody can figure out the beta and the scores have to be determined mostly through attempts; essentially what happened in the boulder finals at the Olympics.
@@ruskater145 Reading comprehension is sorely needed here. No one is bored they are stronger, we are bored of the route setting where it's very uniform in what the hardest crux tend to be or the fact that everyone failed on the Olympics last boulder. I'd say the problems at Moscow Mens are pretty solid overall - but we could still use much more variety. The Olympics boulders were especially bad.
Seeing them talk and hug each other puts a smile on my face. They are so happy for each other's success, not a lot of competitive sports have that. Especially where you are going against the others. Rubik's cubing comes to mind but there it's more against yourself, not the other.
Natalia is climbing on another level. It will be fun to see her potentially challenge Janja. The star of this competition for me was Camilla though. What a performance, I hope this was her arrival party at the top level. I also really liked Andrea's body awareness in the semis, very impressive. Elena's high kick beta was also insane. Great competition overall, very nice route setting in Semis and Finals.
Hmm. In a couple of years, women's bouldering finals will probably look like high school ballet class. But objectification is a no-no, so it will all have to be a coincidence. Bouldering will be big business and on telly. The likes of Puccio, Klingler, Janja, etc: I suppose they'll need to find other sports to pursue. This is just the impression I get.
Climbing is such a beautiful sport! Such an exciting comp with such strong athletes and amazing route-setting! That chocolate must have been delicious!
It was very good session, very colourful with different betas! Very well set! Sofya was really good commentator also, she should do that more often! FYI @MattGroom - the sound of the climbers was captured by pointing listening device. You could see a few shots of this guy holding transparent "plastic" satelite that is capturing/enhancing the sound waves from where you're pointing it to...
Awsome Finale, and those were some suberb Boulder. Very entertaining to watch. Great Job from Matt as usual and i wouldn't mind Sofya commentating more often.
I forgot I had watched this! but feel the same good, maybe better! Brook is amazing on the first boulder, and Natalia is, yes, at another level here. Excellent boulder setting here, too!
@@willmurrin9344 yeah, but I'm talking about consistency! Natalia is actually leading on total points for bouldering than Janja in 2021. she's been super consistent all year, Just like Janja has been over the years. there come some competitors with spurts of greatness, like this Italian girl, there are some French Climbers oriane, fanny, and a few others , But Natalia is the only one I've seen this year who can really challenge Janja
I really like Stasa. Just have to say though her height was a major advantage in the finals and not a disadvantage on any boulder. Boulder 1 she just didn't spot the high foot beta. It didn't look like it required that much flexibility. Who knows if her height would help in the finish dyno. Boulder 2: Height didn't matter Boulder 3 the jump was easier for her and she didn't have to stretch as far at the finish. Boulder 4, her wingspan made it easier to keep a hand on the sloper for the finish.
I don't think there are many cases where being taller doesn't help you especially among female climbers. For example Laura Rogera is already a really good climber and it makes me wonder how much better would she be if she were a few inches taller or the same height as Janja?
Commentators: Talking about how smearing on volumes is all about having as much rubber on as possible and using your whole foot which takes good ankle mobility, etc. Brooke Raboutou: Watch me stay on this volume with the power of one toe and pure stubbornness. 40:26 - 40:37 was some of the most broken physics I've ever seen ahahah
Actually the surface area should make very little difference in climbing. The two surfaces don’t really interlock, it’s basically all about the friction coefficient. Friction force = normal force * μ and all that. I don’t know why climbers keep repeating it. If it were about surface area they’d wear clown shoes (or snow shoes).
@@Mike-oz4cv There's obviously traction at play, otherwise dual texture holds wouldn't make a difference---it's the same material, so same coefficient of friction. But the lack of texture means no traction, only friction. Since the volume is textured, traction matters, and traction is about surface area.
I miss Charlie Boscoe! I am still waiting for a good interview of Matt Groom. Natalia did literally not say anything informative at the end... Still, Amazing finals and great route setting!
In the same sentence, commentators argued that the moves are not max moves if you can do them with 30 seconds rest and than assumed still that these are max moves. Love it.
Hey, IFSC media people, since you guys closed the comments because of _the issue_, I'm commenting here to ask you to rectify the thumbnails, titles and descriptions of the semi-final VODs. It says finals where it should be semi-finals and also it says russian where it should be english. Also, don't close the comments, here or instagram or wherever, you've addressed the issue, embrace the transparency
The company filming the comp decided to do a lingering shot showing off chalk handprints on Johanna Färber's butt. Again. The IFSC has issued an apology, which Matt read at the beginning of these finals.
57:54 It's double stiff shoes, she changed to stiff shoes so she could stand on small foot chip. Stiff shoes are better at that. FYI: You can tell by looking at the bottom of the shoes. If it has a single sole from toe to heel its stiff, if it has one on the front foot one sole around the heel its soft shoes
Janja will be back. She's an Olympic Gold Medalist. I think she just felt she'd gone very very hard over the last few months and didn't have anything else to prove this season.
Some people are just losing their minds because a cameraman shot Johanna Farber's butt and they showed it as a several second slow mo shot during the broadcast. The people getting upset over it believe they were sexualizing a female athlete's butt, but I think the more reasonable explanation is that the cameraman saw two very clear chalked hand prints that she made on her black shorts and decided that that would be a cool shot to take and then production decided to slow down the shot and you could very clearly see two clear chalked hand prints to the point that you can even see the palm lines and finger joints. I think the upset people are ones that think no sexual shots of climbers should be shot and shown no matter what and other people who believe in nuance and context think that that wasn't the intent of the cameraman when they took the shot and that people are getting too upset over a minor thing. This same thing has happened to Johanna Farber before at another event and some people have said that chalked hand prints were also involved in that incident as well. So it seems much more likely that both cameramen who shot her butt were looking at the hand prints rather than thinking 'Wow lets take a nice close up of her nice butt'.
@@roybrown6683 Thank you! Interesting. It's hard to know intent in that kind of situation, but sounds like it was meant to show how chalked up she was, not her butt. The fact they slowed it down on a replay is a bit odd sounding, but otherwise sounds mostly harmless. Depends on the context. Thanks for the info!
@@Cdudesproductions Perhaps we won't ever know 100%, but I really do believe the chalk prints were the focus and that was what the cameraman and the production that slowed the video down wanted to highlight. I mean this is the second time it happened to Johanna specifically and with all the nice butts of climbers that cameramen can choose from to shoot, I find it hard to believe they would focus only on hers unless there was another reason to do so. Clear hand prints on dark shorts is something out of the ordinary and could make for a cool shot (and in my opinion it was an interesting shot when I saw it live) and I think that's the most logical reason for a cameraman to focus on that rather than on her butt when they could shoot the butts of many other climbers. If you want you can search the semi-finals bouldering video and see that even though they cut out the closeup, you can still clearly see from a further distance the two very bright and clear hand prints on Johanna's shorts while she's climbing.
Staša giving everyone chocolate was the highlight of this. True sportsmanship and they all definitely earned it
The beauty of climing is that you're always routing for the one on the wall. Such a pure sport. Love it!!!
After watching the Olympics it's great to have proper commentators again
good commentator, but a terrible interviewer!
do we know who the commentators are? i'm curious to see them in interviews
@@Gynz. from the Olympics or Moscow?
@@VinceW187 Moscow
@@Gynz. Matt groom does the commenting for IFSC normally with one climber who did not make finals. He also hosts climbing daily on epic TV if you want to see some more of his work
Boulder 1 Boulder 2
13:07 Stasa Gejo 35:17
17:43 Brooke Raboutou 39:30
20:46 Andrea Kümin 42:38
25:24 Elena Krasovskaia 47:03
29:45 Camilla Moroni 49:53
33:17 Natalia Grossman 51:54
Boulder 3 Boulder 4
55:17 Stasa Gejo 1:18:50
59:53 Brooke Raboutou 1:21:32
1:04:34 Andrea Kümin 1:26:20
1:09:15 Elena Krasovskaia 1:30:39
1:11:26 Camilla Moroni 1:35:18
1:16:02 Natalia Grossman 1:37:24
Someone did this for the Men's finals and I thought I could do it for this one too! Much deserved, the route setting and climbing was cooler :)
Cheers
agreed girls look more dynamic
Thank you. so cool!
Войны ведутся людьми, которые убивают себя, не зная друг друга, в интересах людей, которые знают друг друга, но не убивают себя. Peace ❤
thank you so much!
I love the Toblerone being the real MVP in the end 😂
I just love Stasa. She is such a fun spirit.
yeah I had a good laugh at her angrily ripping open a Toblerone at 1:25:36
The frustration on that first boulder was amazing to see, so much emotion
Poor girl xD
Absolutely agree!
One of the best competitions I've ever seen. Really amazing and varied route setting that really allowed each climber to shine in different ways. It was incredible to watch. Also after the olympics, OLYMPICS, THIS IS WHAT IT'S SUPPOSED TO LOOK AND SOUND LIKE. This is what 5 star commentators sounds like.
Good routesetting. Fun to watch, some physicality, plenty of creativity. Better than the last WC round!
Yes! I find that in general the women's routesetting tends to be better than the men's, because they set creative problems that require a blend of strength, technique, flexibility, and explosiveness, whereas the men usually have problems that demand insane levels of strength or crazy coordination dynos that leave us stuck watching everybody fail a thousand times on the same moves and we usually end up only seeing one or two tops and a few zones. It shouldn't be this frustrating to watch or to actually compete, it takes away from the excitement and epicness of the event and makes it boring for new viewers. It sucks when nobody can figure out the beta and the scores have to be determined mostly through attempts; essentially what happened in the boulder finals at the Olympics.
I agree, the problems were great to watch.
Also better than the Olympics
@@millacabral9475 so you are bored they are stronger?
@@ruskater145 Reading comprehension is sorely needed here. No one is bored they are stronger, we are bored of the route setting where it's very uniform in what the hardest crux tend to be or the fact that everyone failed on the Olympics last boulder. I'd say the problems at Moscow Mens are pretty solid overall - but we could still use much more variety. The Olympics boulders were especially bad.
Seeing them talk and hug each other puts a smile on my face. They are so happy for each other's success, not a lot of competitive sports have that. Especially where you are going against the others. Rubik's cubing comes to mind but there it's more against yourself, not the other.
Natalia is climbing on another level. It will be fun to see her potentially challenge Janja. The star of this competition for me was Camilla though. What a performance, I hope this was her arrival party at the top level. I also really liked Andrea's body awareness in the semis, very impressive. Elena's high kick beta was also insane. Great competition overall, very nice route setting in Semis and Finals.
Agreed, this comp was amazing for Camilla. 4 tops in semis and in finals. I can’t wait to see what she does in the future.
Hmm. In a couple of years, women's bouldering finals will probably look like high school ballet class. But objectification is a no-no, so it will all have to be a coincidence. Bouldering will be big business and on telly. The likes of Puccio, Klingler, Janja, etc: I suppose they'll need to find other sports to pursue. This is just the impression I get.
Sofya on the commentary box 😍😍 loving it!
Yup. One of my favorites. She's a real one.
Yea so surprised when I recognise her voice and come to the comment section to confirm
Definitely one of the best in this. Awesome climbing skills too, so very accurate comments.
Climbing starts 12:48
Probably one of the best finals I've seen in a while, perfect route setting!
Oh my god it's amazing to watch Camilla climb. So much effort and emotions! Love to see her own happiness/surprise when she reaches the top!!
Especially in boulder 3, where she managed the high jump with the disadvantage of being only 157cm
Man I would love for Stasa to comment with Matt again, but I also really love seeing her in the finals!
which one did she comment on?
@@canwrong9145 the 2021 World Cup in Meiringen
48:40 the crowd's reaction was so cool here! Awesome job.
I reacted in the same way while sitting at home, that was awesome, it was so unexpected and cool
This is the first time I watched this event and I got emotionally involved.
This final inspired me. I’ve been climbing for 4 years, but stoped at some moment due to health, work etc.... Now I certainly know that I will return
Did you return?
I started at my age 42 to climb, those young generation moved my energy forward!
BROOOO somebody call Albert Ok-- Elena Krasovskaia absolutely smashed that beta on the second boulder, holy smokes
Climbing is such a beautiful sport! Such an exciting comp with such strong athletes and amazing route-setting! That chocolate must have been delicious!
Amazing final -- incredible women -- and Natalia Grossman deserves all the stars.
Agreed, she is really gross, man!
It was very good session, very colourful with different betas! Very well set! Sofya was really good commentator also, she should do that more often! FYI @MattGroom - the sound of the climbers was captured by pointing listening device. You could see a few shots of this guy holding transparent "plastic" satelite that is capturing/enhancing the sound waves from where you're pointing it to...
Im going to vote you up for an on-point post and because some spammer copied your post which is most un cool!
Man Natalia is on fire. She's my favorite.
Awsome Finale, and those were some suberb Boulder. Very entertaining to watch.
Great Job from Matt as usual and i wouldn't mind Sofya commentating more often.
Really nice setting! Overall this was so much better than the olympics; for the men too.
Damn! Brooke and Natalia climb like it's an evening at the gym
Natalia is always so happy when she climbs. It's really beautiful to watch
good lord. the attempt at 1:09:45 is nuts considering the attempts that came before it.
some of the best routesetting i've seen in a while... the seperation was perfect!
So so so fun to watch. Great route setting and all the raw emotions and love of these amazing athletes. Thank you for an amazing comp 😍😍😍😍
I forgot I had watched this! but feel the same good, maybe better! Brook is amazing on the first boulder, and Natalia is, yes, at another level here. Excellent boulder setting here, too!
Great route setting, enjoyed it . Natalia is soo good! future looking good with Janja and Natalia ! though I did miss Akiyo and Miho . :)
The Italian girl is young too she has potential to grow into a really good competitor.
@@willmurrin9344 yeah, but I'm talking about consistency! Natalia is actually leading on total points for bouldering than Janja in 2021. she's been super consistent all year, Just like Janja has been over the years.
there come some competitors with spurts of greatness, like this Italian girl, there are some French Climbers oriane, fanny, and a few others , But Natalia is the only one I've seen this year who can really challenge Janja
miho hasn't retired though?
@@shadycatz85 she took a break after Olympics, just like Janja.
I'm a total Brooke fan! But Natalia has been beating her for a while now 😅😳
This was absolutely an absolutely riveting comp! Holy cow, my heart is racing!
Great event! Was an awesome watch even now a few months later, sitting here with my towel trying to keep my hands dry. These women are amazing!
that was absolutely amazing!!! GREAT COMPETITION! that was very wonderful route-setting. Great commentary by Sofya and matt
What a great finals! Excellent setting and amazing effort from all of the women! Congrats to Natalia!!
What amazing athletes ! The commentary was very enjoyable !
Thanks a lot !
incredible runs, great production. thanks for the video.
Ive never seen this B4 all i can say is "GAWD DAM IMPRESSIVE", its cool how the crowd is involved too,,,thanks 4 sharing xx
very good commentary. exciting competition. as a fairly rubbish boulderer Im in awe of the skill and power here.
Matt simping for Staša throughout the whole competition, love to see it
As he should!
lol
Such a fun watch! Incredible women and athletes.
What a great final . Awesome routes and beautiful climbing .
What a fun sport! Always loved climbing since I was a kid.
Holy christ, what an amazing show
wow nevermind the Olympics, this was the true show for 2021!!
very fun to watch what a great tournament Maroni is a beast
19:59
*wiggle wiggle*
Love it when people are happy about their success
This was a really well set round of boulders
STASA IS THE BEST!!!! ❤️❤️❤️
An amazing final!
I really like Stasa. Just have to say though her height was a major advantage in the finals and not a disadvantage on any boulder.
Boulder 1 she just didn't spot the high foot beta. It didn't look like it required that much flexibility. Who knows if her height would help in the finish dyno.
Boulder 2: Height didn't matter
Boulder 3 the jump was easier for her and she didn't have to stretch as far at the finish.
Boulder 4, her wingspan made it easier to keep a hand on the sloper for the finish.
I don't think there are many cases where being taller doesn't help you especially among female climbers. For example Laura Rogera is already a really good climber and it makes me wonder how much better would she be if she were a few inches taller or the same height as Janja?
So fun to watch! The girls are so pretty and strong!
Those were some anticlimactic interview questions
"That's it"
That third boulder was a masterpiece
Commentators: Talking about how smearing on volumes is all about having as much rubber on as possible and using your whole foot which takes good ankle mobility, etc.
Brooke Raboutou: Watch me stay on this volume with the power of one toe and pure stubbornness.
40:26 - 40:37 was some of the most broken physics I've ever seen ahahah
Actually the surface area should make very little difference in climbing. The two surfaces don’t really interlock, it’s basically all about the friction coefficient. Friction force = normal force * μ and all that. I don’t know why climbers keep repeating it. If it were about surface area they’d wear clown shoes (or snow shoes).
@@Mike-oz4cv There's obviously traction at play, otherwise dual texture holds wouldn't make a difference---it's the same material, so same coefficient of friction. But the lack of texture means no traction, only friction.
Since the volume is textured, traction matters, and traction is about surface area.
Man, amazing!
I miss Charlie Boscoe! I am still waiting for a good interview of Matt Groom. Natalia did literally not say anything informative at the end... Still, Amazing finals and great route setting!
This was awesome, Natalia really is on another level here.
Best Bouldering event ever!!!
Never expected climbing to be exciting to watch
Watching women climb sometimes buggles my mind, they are so flexible and at the same time they can apply power from those positions its amazing
At 1:36:55 you can see the wall flex as she grabs the hold. The wall bends to her will.
love that smooth, smoooth jazz XD
stasa giving her competetors some chocolate
Absolutely heartbreaking for Staša.
congrats, ladies. also, what a bloody sport this is. :)
at 34;37 when Natalia grabs the top hold with both hands you can actually see her shake the whole top of the wall.
Great comp
my fav finals ever
Stasa is such a bro!
классные девчонки!!!
In the same sentence, commentators argued that the moves are not max moves if you can do them with 30 seconds rest and than assumed still that these are max moves. Love it.
Somebody forgot their climbing gear on that table.
Hey, IFSC media people, since you guys closed the comments because of _the issue_, I'm commenting here to ask you to rectify the thumbnails, titles and descriptions of the semi-final VODs. It says finals where it should be semi-finals and also it says russian where it should be english. Also, don't close the comments, here or instagram or wherever, you've addressed the issue, embrace the transparency
what happened?
I wanna know too
The company filming the comp decided to do a lingering shot showing off chalk handprints on Johanna Färber's butt. Again. The IFSC has issued an apology, which Matt read at the beginning of these finals.
@@lui5gif ugh when Matt read the apology I was afraid it was this kind of thing again. :/
@@lui5gif What was the problem with that?
That was a fun finals
ahh I have never had as sweaty hands as watching this :O Epic
brooke's happy little wriggle at 20:00 🥺🥺🥺🥺
57:54 It's double stiff shoes, she changed to stiff shoes so she could stand on small foot chip. Stiff shoes are better at that.
FYI:
You can tell by looking at the bottom of the shoes. If it has a single sole from toe to heel its stiff, if it has one on the front foot one sole around the heel its soft shoes
I just watched then finals, it was good fun. Did Oriane Bertone not get passed the semi's? Next to Jana she is my favourite to see bouldering.
unfortunatly she became 41. I hope we see more of her next season. So fun to watch
What did Stasa say during the first boulder (15:04)? Is that swearing in Serbian? :-)
Chocolate for everyone! This should become a tradition.
On the second note we need Janja back to stop Natalia, though I don't know for how long.
Why stop Natalia? Why not let her just shine?
Janja will be back. She's an Olympic Gold Medalist. I think she just felt she'd gone very very hard over the last few months and didn't have anything else to prove this season.
Stasa gejo the queen of heartbreaks.
Nataliaaaa❤️❤️❤️❤️
Great commenting :D It was so much fun listening to the commentary box ;)
Sofya... 👍
.
Boulder 1 is such a Janja boulder
1:36:05 my god this is better than italy winning euro2020
Natalia 👏👏
38:28 идёт такая... за спиной взрывы.... а она не обернулась
Can Sofia commentate on every match from now on？She made the match.
I love climbing
@sofya comparing ovomaltine and toblerone? How could you!? One is chocolate the other an energy bar! 😆
Anyone know what the incident was he's talking about at 5:45 in the video? Did a camera operator get an up the shorts shot on accident or something?
Some people are just losing their minds because a cameraman shot Johanna Farber's butt and they showed it as a several second slow mo shot during the broadcast. The people getting upset over it believe they were sexualizing a female athlete's butt, but I think the more reasonable explanation is that the cameraman saw two very clear chalked hand prints that she made on her black shorts and decided that that would be a cool shot to take and then production decided to slow down the shot and you could very clearly see two clear chalked hand prints to the point that you can even see the palm lines and finger joints.
I think the upset people are ones that think no sexual shots of climbers should be shot and shown no matter what and other people who believe in nuance and context think that that wasn't the intent of the cameraman when they took the shot and that people are getting too upset over a minor thing.
This same thing has happened to Johanna Farber before at another event and some people have said that chalked hand prints were also involved in that incident as well. So it seems much more likely that both cameramen who shot her butt were looking at the hand prints rather than thinking 'Wow lets take a nice close up of her nice butt'.
@@roybrown6683 Thank you! Interesting. It's hard to know intent in that kind of situation, but sounds like it was meant to show how chalked up she was, not her butt. The fact they slowed it down on a replay is a bit odd sounding, but otherwise sounds mostly harmless. Depends on the context.
Thanks for the info!
@@Cdudesproductions
Perhaps we won't ever know 100%, but I really do believe the chalk prints were the focus and that was what the cameraman and the production that slowed the video down wanted to highlight. I mean this is the second time it happened to Johanna specifically and with all the nice butts of climbers that cameramen can choose from to shoot, I find it hard to believe they would focus only on hers unless there was another reason to do so.
Clear hand prints on dark shorts is something out of the ordinary and could make for a cool shot (and in my opinion it was an interesting shot when I saw it live) and I think that's the most logical reason for a cameraman to focus on that rather than on her butt when they could shoot the butts of many other climbers.
If you want you can search the semi-finals bouldering video and see that even though they cut out the closeup, you can still clearly see from a further distance the two very bright and clear hand prints on Johanna's shorts while she's climbing.
@@roybrown6683just don't get up close shots of peoples asses. It really isn't that hard
I yell advice at the screen knowing I can't do any of it. 🤣
LOL.
Natalia & Brooke are twins :3💕👯♀️
재밌다 ㅠㅠ
what does elena krasovskaias country abbreviation cfr stand for?
Climbing federation Russia I'd guess
1:40:50 The presenters outfit could only be Russia.