🔥 Mercedes Benz S550 4Matic (W221) 🔥 AirMatic Malfunction - Valve Block Replacement
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 05. 2019
- Join me as I attempt to replace the AirMatic Valve Block on my 2008 Mercedes Benz S550 4Matic W221.
Please let me know in the comments below what I’m doing right and all the things I’m doing wrong, and anything else you want to mention. It is much appreciated!
Please don’t forget to hit that LIKE button and SUBSCRIBE! It would mean a lot, and you won’t miss out on all the upcoming videos. Thanks! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very nice. I am going to order this friday.
I hope your repair went well!!!
Good job very good and informative video.thank you for sharing . but you didn't say if that fix the problem ? I am having the same warning sms coming on and off.
Good question and thanks for letting me know that I missed that. Seems like a pretty important thing to mention, right?! 😁 In my case, it turned out that the valve block wasn't my issue, but was in fact a ripped rubber hose that goes from the compressor filter to the compressor. I didn't know what was wrong so I decided to start with the cheapest part since it was only like $50 and was probably pretty old anyway. If I knew then what I know now, I would probably take the wheel off and inspect everything before just ordering parts, but you live you learn. I would definitely recommend taking that rubber hose off and inspecting it for rips/breaks, especially around the bends where I found my tear. It's really easy to take off. Good luck with your issue and let me know if you have any questions. I'm no expert, but I'll try to help
thanks for the video. How do you know when the valve block is bad? how do you pinpoint the diagnosis?
It's a good question. I'm not sure if you can take them apart and inspect the internals, but I believe if your valve block is bad, you'll see the entire front end drop, for example. If one of your air struts blew, it'll just be low on that one strut. I didn't know that at the time, and it was a fairly cheap part to replace and mine was probably original so I wanted to do it anyway. Turned out that it wasn't the problem I was having. If your car is leaning only on one corner, I would recommend taking that wheel off and just inspect the area. You might discover your issue in plain sight, like a rip in your strut boot. Let me know if that helps, or if I can try to explain it a little better. Thanks Mazhar
@@autoaddict3994 thanks brother. my only problem is this: I lock up the car with remote key and few seconds later the whole front goes down equally.. I think it looks ugly like less attractive with the front end relatively lower. I also noticed after parking for like 20 hrs .. it goes dramatically down to an uglier position but still acceptably up..thanks again boss
You definitely have a leak in the system. I am no expert, but I would definitely recommend getting that repaired because right now you might just have a bad valve block or a broken rubber hose like happened to me, but if you keep driving it like that, your compressor is going to get much more of a workout which means you will still have the same problem you have now plus you'll have a bad compressor that'll need replacing, which is a lot more expensive. Just my thoughts. Good luck Mazhar!
@@autoaddict3994 I dont think this is the issue cuz it just goes down like 1 inch and stops! and the compressor doesnt go off while driving! mercedes told me its normal... and when I asked what if there is a leak the answer was: it will sit down on that side more (this should help u). when I asked about the valve block being bad: they told me the whole care would go down at the same time! so it is neither one
One thing I know for sure: if your compressor works non-stop, it's about to fail. The air suspension system is closed and always inflated. It's not supposed to lose any pressure so the compressor doesn't work too much and isn't designed to do so. The way these compressors fail is when you have a leak they start working a lot more and burn out, at least that's one of the ways they fail. I'm not sure what's going on in your car, but I know the compressor isn't supposed to work all the time
Hello i just replaced mine valve block on W221 s320 cdi , however i started hearing some kind of electronic click sound from the side of the compressor / valve block . DO you know what it can be , Thanks !
I'm sorry I don't. There is an electronic connection to the compressor, but I don't know what the internals of it look like. The valve block is just airways, so maybe it can be one opening while another one closing, but I gotta tell you, I don't hear any clicking from mine.
Is your suspension working as it should? Any issues?
What exactly was your issue which was being caused by the leaking hose? Were all 4 struts deflating or just 1? My front right strut does not come up all the way. It goes does overnight. I replaced the strut, valve block and level sensor but that did not fix the issue. Since only one strut is having issues, the problem can not be in the compressor. The only other things left are 1) leaking hose from valve block to front right strut, 2) speed sensor on right tire, 3) faulty air suspension module, 4) faulty ECU. Can you eliminate any of these things? Can you suggest any other solutions? Thanks in advance.
my whole front end was going down and not coming back up. The compressor was pumping but the air wasn't making it to the front struts. The first thing I would say is it's your strut, but you did replace that already, so that's probably not your issue, but I do have one question: did you replace it with an OEM part or a cheaper knock-off? Just because it's new doesn't mean it will work as intended. If your strut gets pumped up while you drive but takes a while to deflate (overnight), that probably means you have a slow leak somewhere. I would inspect all your rubber hoses and connectors. Get a bottle of soapy water and spray everything down when the system is completely inflated. Hopefully you'll see some bubbles, but one thing I want to mention to you is be careful when spraying around electrical connections. This car is very sophisticated and has electrical connectors everywhere. Be careful not to spray those just in case. Let me know if you have any luck
@@autoaddict3994 To answer your question, I have been using/replacing $125 struts from eBay. I would think at least one would work. But, I have used the same $125 eBay strut on the left front side too and that worked out well. I really feel there is something else going on and its not the struts. The car no longer goes down overnight. It stays up but is different levels. The front right side is always 4 cm lower than the front left wheel. I also notice that the left side strut is raising a lot higher than usual making the ride very stiff/hard (I can feel every bump in the road). Do you think I need better struts? Arnotts? Can it be the valve block, suspension module, or ECU sending bad signals to the struts?
Bonjour
Sorry I didn't catch your question until now. I really hope you've figured out your situation by now, but in case you didn't, I would imagine it could be some sort of a computer issue. I'm not an expert by any means, but since your car doesn't go down means you don't have a leak, which means something is telling the struts to go up and down. I know these systems are very sophisticated and I think each strut has an electrical connection which may mean it has some sort of microprocessor in it and it may just not be reading the commands sent by the computer correctly. There has to be a reason they're so cheap, but again, I'm not sure. I don't know if you know someone with the Mercedes STAR computer or an advanced Autel (or any other advanced car diagnostics computer) that can perform the Rodeo test to test each strut and the system as a whole. That may tell you something if the struts are responding to the test correctly or just kind of doing their own thing. I'm not really sure what else it can be. Please let me know if you've figured out your issue. Thanks
@@autoaddict3994 , depending on the age of the car, it could be that the valve body has a slow leak that lets the suspension bleed down overtime. I think I have that problem in my 2003 E500. Different corners bleed down different amounts over time, from overnight to a couple of days. However, when I start the car, it rises quickly to driving height and then operates normally. On my car, 3 of the four struts were replaced by the PO before I bought it, and if there was a sensor problem, I don't think it would operate normally after the car is started. WIsh me luck.
In your video, you were using a Maxicom tool to perform the test. This tool costs almost $2000. Is there a less expensive version from Maxicom that will provide the same pneumatic tests?
Honestly, I don't know. I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, and the Autel tools are very confusing. This is the reason I went for the top of the line so I wouldn't miss out on any features. It is extremely expensive, not when comparing to SnapOn (which in my opinion are worse than Autel), but just in general.
I would look into the MS906. It comes as a basic version (MS906) which is pretty good, and can be bought for around $900, or the more expensive bluetooth version (MS906BT), which costs more at around $1,200. I didn't really look for the best prices, so maybe you can get them for even less.
Here are some others for you to consider:
the DS707 for around $780
the DS808 for around $730
the MP808 for around $700
Maybe you can find a store online that specializes in Autel, and reach out to them and ask for advice. Just keep in mind that they may not know what they're talking about. Another thing you can do is reach out to Autel directly. I think they have an office in NY and should speak english. Maybe they can answer some questions for you as to which device does what. Hope that helps!
What's the scan tool you used
I used the Autel MK908P. It just came out this year and it seems to be a really professional tool. Dives deep and does programming. I was able to increase my top speed electronically, just like the Star Benz diagnostics system. Pretty cool tool, but super expensive (much cheaper than original Star diagnostics though)
Why did you decide to go with that scan tool? Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it around $2000 dollars
It was almost exactly $2k. I went with it since I know it does the Rodeo test, which I was under the impression was one of the most exclusive Mercedes tests, so I figured if it can do that, and program Mercedes and BMW modules (I have 2 Benzes and a BMW), I figured this was a good way for me to go. I didn't want another cheaper computer (I already have a cheaper one for just code reading) but one that can tackle pretty much anything I would need from a car computer and after doing the research, I felt this was the best of the best so I decided to just go with it. Also, it may turn out to be a business expense in the near future, if I ever find the time...