KTM/Husky 2-Stroke Crankshaft Oil Seal Replacement
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- čas přidán 1. 10. 2019
- This video shows how to change the crankshaft oil seal on a KTM 2017 250 EXC.
Tokyo Offroad Crankshaft Oil Seal Press Tool:
www.tokyooffroad.com/product/...
0760385273 Oil Seal (crankshaft clutch side)
0770250015 O-Ring (crankshaft clutch side)
55430016000 Distance sleeve
58132072000 Lock Washer (primary)
55430025100 Gasket Inner clutch case
78132018100 Clutch hub lock washer
78132025100 Inner clutch hub damping rubber (6 required)
54832011110 Clutch kit
Tokyo Offroad KTM DDS Clutch Inspection & Replacement:
• KTM DDS Clutch Inspect...
2017 KTM 250 EXC with Keihin 38mm + STIC & RK TEK Head
Webshop: www.tokyooffroad.com/
TShirts: www.storefrontier.com/store/t...
Facebook: / tokyooffroad - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very detail comprehensive in only 30 minutes. Much appreciated.
Although I have a 97 EXC 300 no doubt this info will still be a benefit.
Finnaly new video. Doesn't matter i dont have to change oil seal, always to watch best quality vids!
Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this. I know when I was younger I could not afford to pay someone to work on my bike and these video's really help with people that are on a budget. I can afford it now but after years of doing it myself I enjoy still maintaining my bike. Thanks again for a great video!
I've always done my own maintenance on all the dirt bikes I've owned and really enjoy it. I started making these videos when some of my riding buddies wanted to do their own maintenance, but didn't know how and would often do more harm than good. It does take quite a bit of extra time to video the work and edit the video, but in general most people seem to find them valuable. The top end overhaul video I made 2 years ago has just over 1,000,000 views now so I guess a few people other than my riding buddies watched it ;-) czcams.com/video/_dzYPpK3IVU/video.html
Best how to vids on the net, by far !
@@TokyoOffroad I have watched every video you have and I have enjoyed all of them. The video you made with your shop tools was great. The engine rebuilds is so helpful and I hope you can find time to do more engine rebuilds for us. Thanks again and stay safe and healthy in your riding adventures!
Thanks for the great videos! I tried to install the seal with a socket about 100 times (unsuccessfully) before caving and buying your tool. It only took me 3 tries or so with your tool.
Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos and also found the tool useful
having a hell of a time finding a video for ktm,husky,gasgas 85 bikes. hope this video helps a little
Step by step! Thanks for your willingness to share!
The best tutorial channel ever. Thank you very much.
Thanks again!! helped my buddy replace his seal the other day n used your video step by step.
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
I have 200hrs on my EXC300 2017 and I don't have any issues but still watched the whole video because of your quality videos!
Regarding the kick-starter long bolt - I'm waiting for that video :)
BTW - I like the new simple tool!
I'll upload the idler gear bolt modification video tonight (Japan time). This is only an issue on 2017 KTM and Husqvarna 2 strokes. The clutch case design was updated in 2018 and a longer bolt is now used. Also this is only an issue if you use the kick starter. I don't use mine much and as such I haven't been in a rush to do the modification. However, it is useful having the kick starter sometimes (cold starting on winter mornings) and it would really suck if the case broke while you were kicking it.
I just did this last week on my 2022 GasGas 300 EX and there is a small change from this video. The 2022 bikes DO NOT have a lock washer on the primary gear, even though it's in the microfiche, there was none in my bike. If you use the lock-washer, the primary gear nut will not go down far enough onto the spindle threads. I did not use the lock washer and the bike runs fine.
Also, the primary gear nut is 24mm in size and the clutch nut (which DOES HAVE A LOCK WASHER with the tabs) is 27mm.
Thanks for sharing the information. Good to know...
My 2023 did not have the lock washer either but the OEM parts diagram showed it. I decided to install it with the new lock washer and nut and the nut was able to thread on fully when the washer compressed so I think its fine.
Great video! will be doing this job very soon. Thanks for the video!
I purchased a dirt bike engine stand and love it so much that I prefer to remove the engine now for this type of work, even going as far as using it for valve adjustments on the four-stroke. Highly recommended.
I recently got an engine stand too. I'll be using mine soon on a new project bike. Looking forward to that...
I always love your arts and crafts with the bolts, I just leave them sitting in their holes whenever a casing comes off 😉 although with larger cases it doesn't always work 😂
Yes, there's more than one way to skin a cat ;-) I like the template method though as the cases you always need to flip them over to check the sealing surface before reassembly (and the bolts would fall out). Also I don't like having bolts in a case when installing it as they can hangup and complicated the assembly. It takes my about a minute to make the template and saves a lot of head scratching during assembly.
do you have a video of replacing the other crankshaft seal on the other side of the engine??
Your videos are brilliant!
I pulled the seal off with a spring puller without even damaging the metal. As a test I reversed the primary gear and used it to press (hammer with socket) the old seal back in and it worked a treat.
Also another way to hold the clutch still is to place it in gear then apply the back brake by jamming a flat bladed screwdriver behind the brake stop.
Using the primary gear as a press worked really well. Thanks for that tip!
Just did this last night and glad I saw your comment about using the primary gear to press the seal back into place evenly. It worked great!
This is super helpful!
Going to try this week. Wanted to follow up on your methodology: When you "Reversed the primary gear" do you mean that you flipped it upside down of how it's supposed to fit corrrectly, then used that as a press?
@@axelav5
Going to try this week. Wanted to follow up on your methodology: When you "Reversed the primary gear" do you mean that you flipped it upside down of how it's supposed to fit corrrectly, then used that as a press?
@@dmarsh15
Going to try this week. Wanted to follow up on your methodology: When you "Reversed the primary gear" do you mean that you flipped it upside down of how it's supposed to fit corrrectly, then used that as a press?
As always very detailed... Thank you
Nice video . I’m doing a leak down test 7 psi through the intake and wondering if air should be coming through the power valves on both sides ? At first with clutch cover on and removing the oil fill cap I thought I had a bad crank seal after removing cover I found that the air was coming from the power valve instead .
Thanks so much for this video. I've just got to top up the gear oil and rad fluid and I'm done. Hardest part was getting my skid plate off!!
I hate that! That's always the biggest bitch of any project, isn't it? 🥵
This was a great video. Thanks for listing the parts.
Pleased to hear that you found it useful.
KTM engineering is amazing - build quality is top notch!!! 👍👍👍
Used to be shithole quality though..... lets not forget their humble beginnings with some of the worst bikes EVER.
@@Chugg.Norris Not exactly the big 4 had 'great' machines either.
@@mt1885 I mean... an 01 kdx shits on an 01 ktm anything. An 01 yz250 will smack any 01 ktm right in the face. Its really been the last few years ktm has stepped up its game. Old gas gas was better than old ktm. Dont be offended, I dont really care either way. But acting like ktm has always been the grail... yeah that's just SILLY.
@@Chugg.Norris Don't care about a 20 year old bike - enjoy
@@mt1885 ktm who?
Just got my press tool. Very nice works great.
Great. Hope you find it works well, Thanks for your business.
Just waded my way through this job on a 2014 300XCW using your directions and your press tool. I should have froze the seal prior to install because even with the tool I had a dash of trouble with cantering, but I'm getting forgetful in my advancing age, heh.
Sorry to hear that the install didn't go smoothly. Hope you were able to correct the canting and drive the seal in without wrecking it. Freezing the seal is a good idea and will help with ease of install.
@@TokyoOffroad After re-reading I had forgotten the "thank you" part of my original comment! So well, thank you! I mean to clarify that in my opinion it went very well minus the bit of fidgeting with the seal. I've boogered plenty of other things a lot worse. The seal popped back out easy when I did get it wrong fortunately.
That pre tension ring prevents the belleville spring from cutting into the aluminum hub as you modulate the clutch
I have a clutch basket tool, would that be sufficient for holding the gears while I loosen the primary gear nut? (Need to do repair now for this weekend).
very nice video! good job!
Great video. Thanks for sharing it.
Thank you for the video, I feel ready to tackle this. I only have 170 hours on my ‘17 KTM 300 6days & need to do this already :(
100 hrs on my 250sx seals are sucking oil sucking air running lean then rich .Silencer has mung drippingnout of it.Trans low on oil
Just had this replaced by a well known local shop. Had the clutch rubber dampers also, but now the clutch sounds like it has loose change rattling around when the bike is idling and clutch disengaged. Upon engagement the sound does go away. Is that a normal sound for a disengaged clutch? MY 4stroke 350 has the same clutch and it doesn't make this sound...
What could have gone wrong during a crank seal replacement that could cause the clutch to have new sounds?
Excellent informative video thanks for sharing
my distance sleeve wont move, even after removing the seal and grabbing it properly, any idea how I can work it out? Thank you
@TokyoOffroad I have two questions, is it necessary to replace the spring washer under the crank bolt? Also is it necessary to remove the water pump cover? Thank you.
A U.S. penny (1 cent piece) can also be used between the clutch basket and primary gear teeth to torque the primary gear nut. It only costs a penny.
Yes, I've heard of using a penny before. The Motion Pro tool cost is more than a penny, but it does work very well and has a magnet built in to it to hold it in position. But always good to know other options, especially in an emergency when you might not have access to special tools...
Is this procedure roughly the same for a 22 Husqvarna TC125? Thank you for the great video.
Will your seal driving tool work for the above mentioned bike?
I am sure you have answered this far too many times, but how can I get the list of all of the necessary parts and tools needed to complete the project. I have been putting this off for a while, but now is time to get my hands dirty. You do not know how appreciated your vids are. Cheers.
Hello, good afternoon. The video and the perfect explanation, thank you very much. I would like to ask a question about a problem that has arisen in my KTM 300 EXC TPI year 2020, the other day it stopped suddenly on a climb and did not start with the starter, it made a "CLACK" as if it could not move the motor. I took the gear out and it was still the same, suddenly it started but I noticed more vibration than normal, the bike didn't vibrate as much before stopping, the bike hasn't done it again and everything normal after several rides but it vibrates more. The question is if you can tell me what can happen or has happened? Unbalance of the crankshaft or the balance shaft that I have seen in your video, makes the engine not have vibrations, could it have broken? Could it have been misaligned? Sorry for the translation, I'm from Spain. Thank you very much and I hope you can help me and know how to remove the annoying vibration.
Thank you''very excited to repair my exc myself.informative
Pleased to hear that you found the video helpful
Il check your other posts also thank you.have a few old bikes but this one i like' its street legal go anwere thanks
Thanks for the great step by step and links to the parts and tools. Just placed my order today. Do you have a video for the crank shaft seal on the stator side as well?
Thanks for your order. It’ll ship on Monday. I only have a video of the stator side oil seal when I overhauled the bottom end (seal was installed into stripped down case). Sorry…
reassembling everything after installing new seal on my 2014 300 ktm, my manual calls for 88 ft/lb on clutch hub nut and 120 ft/lb on primary nut. PN torque seems like a lot. I noticed your gear/shaft actually move slightly when u were torqueing your PN. I didn't reach 120 on my PN, I was afraid something was going to break or get distorted. used new lock washer and thread lock.
Interesting that the recommended torque values are higher on the 2014. My 2017 model manual states Clutch hub=73.8 ft.lb (100Nm) and Primary Nut=110.6 ft.lb (150Nm)
AWESOME tools to!!!
Nice job 👌
Excellent!
Your videos are awesome! Very detailed and you explain nearly everything! I am installing a kickstart kit on my 2021 KTM 250 xc this weekend. I have found that the Loctite in the manual is not really available in the US without ordering, so hopefully it comes in time. I noticed in this particular video you used anti-seize instead of Moly-60. What type of anti-seize did you use? I am always unsure when to use copper, aluminum, or nickel anti-seize.
Pleased to hear that you find the videos useful. I use Permatex #80078 Anti-Seize
Like a boss👍🏾
Nice how to do video 👍
Very good video, thank you! I noticed some gear oil dripping from the breather fitting on the stator side underneath of my 19' 300 tpi. Would that be and indicator of a bad crank seal?
Great video… workshop manual suggest thin layer of loctite 5910 for clutch cover gasket (14 300 exc ). Is it ok to install without? I only have permeated ultra max black gasket maker which apparently is too thick? TIA
I would follow the repair manual advice and use liquid gasket if specified. If you can't find Loctite 5910 then use an equivalent.
I literally can't get mine to go in without getting canted no matter how careful I am. Im gonna freezing the seal since it seems to be interference fot
Amazing thanks
it’s 2024, i have a 2020 xc250 tpi with only 123 original hours on it and it needs a new crank seal. not sure if it’s because it sat for a few year but ig that’ll do it😂
Looks like I may be performing a right side crank seal replacement this winter, do you sell the parts you list as a kit, for those of us not familiar with all the necessary gaskets and washers?
I could do if you're stuck, but my recommendation is to purchase the necessary parts from your local KTM dealer.
Could this also cause fowled plugs? My 2015 TC 250 is killing plugs every ride... doing a little research before messing around with anything. Thanks!
Yes, it's a possibility. Another is if the carburetor is running too rich.
This seal leaking could be a cause for excessive spooge on the silencer? Does it affect the way the bike runs if it’s leaking?
I have the same question. My bike is smoking alot and the engine feels lean at constant have throttle. Also the piston makes a huge noticeable knocking noise at the same RPM (have throttle). Can it be the oil seal leaning out the bike
Hey not sure if you're still replying but I've done a crank seal replacement and im sure that its been done properly but the bike is still spewing tons of smoke. Will it continue that until its ridden for a bit to clear out the smoke that was still at the bottom of the crank? Its not losing any coolant as well so I'm sure that the cylinder gaskets and o rings are fine
Yes, take it for an extended ride and see whether it clears out...
For those of us with a Rekluse, should we replace the clutch rubber and lock washer when performing the work ? Thanks.
I've never personally used a Rekluse clutch. But in general, yes it's a good idea to change the clutch damper rubber regular (probably once a year is a good interval) and also use a new lock washer.
I have a 2023 300 exc tpi with 60 hrs
Its started to smoke lately when its getting hot,not crazy smoking but something is wrong i think,is it possible that i need to this so early or there is more possible reasons?
Thanks!
Yes, it is possible. I do know that some people have reported failures at similar low hours, although I wouldn't say it's common.
Why did you pull the powervalve cover off? After following your video last night and thinking it over this morning, I realized I could have left the power valve cover and linkage in place. The rubber/plastic seal slides off the case easily and you don't actually need to disconnect the linkage to remove it.
Yes, you're correct. I do think it makes it slightly easier though doing it the method shown in the video and only adds about half a minute of time.
Good job ! Thank you !
Now we know why KTM did away with the kick starter , they were having problems with the cases braking, at time 17:00 he speaks of it. So instead of fixing it they removed it.
The idler gear crankcase boss breakage issue was only with 2017 models. KTM updated the case design in 2018 models to fix this problem. I think the reason KTM removed the kickstarter on 2020 models was to save weight and cost...
@@TokyoOffroad ... Ok great thanks for the reply and clearing that up for me . I hate that KTM removed the kicker , I think it's not so heavy and that the riders may need the kicker in emergency times. I hate that they did that.
Although many people say they don’t miss not having a kick starter, if it was my bike I would fit one in case of an issue. It should be noted that the TPIs will not kick start with a completely dead battery, but a capacitor can be installed to allow this. If riding in remote areas then adding a kickstarter and capacitor is certainly worth considering...
@@TokyoOffroad ... Oh thank you for that info . maybe you can do a video on the capacitor and when it gos?
Does that mean you can't push start it also ? I guess it does. Why in the world would KTM do this to the buyers, GGG
Ringo Gingo - Yes, if they battery is completely dead push starting is also unlikely to work. I’ll make a video to discuss this topic...
鉄シールのはめ込みは、シールパッキン材(シリコン)を塗布した方が良いですよ😅特にクランクシールですものね❗
メーカーのシールの選択ミスかも、アウター側もゴムシールが望ましいですね🎵
シール用にアダプターを用意したが、大きめのワッシャーに大きめのボックスでも充分行けると思います。カギフックのシール抜きも無ければ➖ドライバ又はグリップ付きの小型バールでも行けますけど、
Could we use the special little tool blue to block the clutch?
I don't think so. It's designed to lock gear teeth. The inner hub doesn't have any teeth. I made my own clutch holder tool, but similar holder tools are available cheaply.
Good video. I don’t understand what that seal is for. On one side there is the clutch with the engine oil and isn’t the other side under the piston that has engine oil lubricating the crankshaft and the bottom of the cylinder? So if the same oil is on both sides, why is a seal needed? I’d love to understand what I’m missing.
The right side crankshaft seal separates the crankcase (fuel + air + 2-stroke oil passes through) from the gearbox (transmission oil). If the seal starts leaking transmission oil will be drawn into the crankcase and be burnt, resulting in excessively smokey exhaust and also the transmission oil level will decrease.
Hey there, I have a 2020 300 xc and need to change that set up that drives the water pump impeller. Its the piece that has all those gears and is attached to the engine cover ( remains with the engine cover when you took it off at 8:09 min of the vid) How does that gear thing come off the cover?? Is it bolted in place with some type of retainer? Or just slides out??
The gear has a shaft which passes through a seal in the case. The water pump impeller is attached the other side of the case and held on the shaft with a nut. To remove first remove the nut and push the shaft out. Note that there's a washer between the shaft and impeller.
@@TokyoOffroad I had a coolant leak from the water pump cover gasket. Took off the cover and found the impeller had some play in it when I moved it. So I got a wrench and tried to see is the bolt holding the impeller was tight. Well, the bolt broke right off with the threads. ( I barley put any pressure on it) Naturally I went in to deep depression. I have that part on order now. $300 later.
So when you say its pressed in, will I be ale to remove it with out using a press to push it out? Will that whole gear thing just slide out of the case cover with hand pressure? And Im terrified of re installing that nut now. How weak is that shaft????
Thank you for your response.
@@sucapizda Sorry to hear about the breakage. You don't need a press to remove the shaft. It'll slide out using your fingers. It's probably a good idea to replace the seal when you do it to help ensure no leaks.
@@TokyoOffroad Yes I have the seal coming as well. Thank you for your help. Your video was actually very helpful. I appreciate it. Thanks again.
Did your bike need it? My bottom end was toast at like 220 hrs, the oil seal wasn't the problem (I changed the sleeve and seal and o-ring twice)
No, my exhaust wasn’t excessively smokey, so I think the seal was still OK. But considering the number of hours my bike has done (370H) I thought it was reasonable to change it at a convenient time. What were the symptoms and cause of your bottom end issue?
What year models are the part numbers valid for? Guessing late 90's till present?
Both 250 and 300?
Yes, both 250 and 300 are the same. All the part numbers stated in the description of the video are for a 2017 model. It's always best to check online on a parts list for your own year model before ordering. The same right side crankshaft oil seal (KTM # 0760385273) has been used from 1994 (couldn't search online older than this) through 2020 models.
@@TokyoOffroad thx, mine is a 2016 300
Why you are not using impact gun to loosen some of those high torque bolts(about 100nm? It is easier and more gentle for threads...
The primary gear nut (reverse thread) is 150 Nm and secured with thread lock. I think this would be challengingly to remove with an impact. I was also concerned about the vibration the impact makes which might cause the gear lock tool to move. Using a breaker bar for this job is the correct tool IMO. For the clutch hub nut (100 Nm and thread lock) an impact can be used for removal and I show that method in the DDS clutch overhaul video I made (link in description). In this video I decided to use a breaker bar to show it can be done for those without an impact. And of course an impact should never be used for tightening these nuts, only loosening.
Where can I buy a Tokyo off road crankshaft oil seal press tool ?
Thanks for your order. Yes, it's available from the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: tokyooffroad.com/product/ktm-husqvarna-crankshaft-oil-seal-press-tool-cospt/
Your order will ship tomorrow. Hope you receive it quickly...
Does the clutch sometimes need bled afterwards?
No, not unless you already have air in the clutch hydraulic system.
My 2019 TE300i is very high hours and is definitely burning transmission oil. I don't see any obvious leaks on the outside. Would it be a safe bet that the Crankshaft oil seal has gone?
Yes, the most likely cause is that your crankshaft oil seal is bad and needs replacing.
@@TokyoOffroad This fixed it right up. Thank you for the great video. Ill be ordering your tool for the next time.
Will that tool work for the stator side too?
The stator side is smaller so one tool won't do both. I could make a tool for the stator oil seal side if though...
How do you get the primary gear off? Yours just slid off, but mine slides a bit then stops. I've tried leveraging on it pretty good. Am I missing something? I have a 2016 KTM 250 XC-W.
Yes, mine just slid off. If yours isn’t coming off by hand you could try using a gear puller.
@@TokyoOffroad That did the trick, thanks.
Having the same problem with mine, going to purchase a new geaar puller this afternoon
Did you make that gear lock tool or did you buy it? If you bought it, where did you get it? Awesome video , thanks
I think it's a Motion-Pro item
Could you give me the name of your tools to adjust the Newton force on screws Plz ?
he is using a Tohnichi torque wrench www.tohnichi.com/torque-wrench.htm
All my torque wrenches (other than the digital AC Delco one I used in the video) are made by Tohnichi. You can see my torque wrenches half way through this video: czcams.com/video/mLUxMKEMeug/video.html
Any KTM part numbers for that distance sleeve? I’m working on a 2013 250 XC
From online parts list for your bike: 54830016000 SPACER SLEEVE 28X38X10
@@TokyoOffroad
You’re awesome! Thank you!!
How often are you change transmission oil?
Every 15H
What if you forgot to put the beveled edge of the distance sleeve toward the o-ring what would be the outcome? Asking for a friend :(
If the distance sleeve is reversed you'd be more likely to damage the oil seal when installing it. No point in redoing it, unless the seal is leaking...
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for getting back to me so quick. That thought of doing it wrong and all over again woke me up at 05:30 this morning.
@@JackRandyTrace777 LOL. I know the feeling...
I wish you had also a four stroke.. :)
Hi! how to know that trans oil starts burning because of seal issue? on 4st i know-there are screen)
The most obvious symptom is an excessively smokey exhaust. You’ll start getting complaints from people riding behind you.
@@andrejskamla9736 on a gasgas2018 300 2st the are screen..when i saw it i also was surprised
also your transmission oil level will continually go down... like mine is.😪
Thank you for the video.. I can't find to buy the crank sleeve. Do you know a place to buy it from? Thank you😊
You can order the crankshaft distance sleeve from your local KTM dealer, or online. I don't know what year bike you have. The part number for the distance sleeve on my 2017 KTM 300 is 55430016000. sparepartsfinder.ktm.com/
@@TokyoOffroad thank you ☺️ mine is a 2000 ktm exc 250 2t
12m 11s should have removed the woodruf key out of the crank.
Looking for that seal tool on your website, couldn't find it, would you be able to post a link? (Sorry if it's obvious, but I'll blame it on poor eyesight). Thanks for putting that vid and all your others up, pretty much got me to also start doing all my own maintenance.
Thanks for your interest. I haven’t listed the tool on the website yet. I’ll do it later today and also post a link here.
I just listed the tool on the Tokyo Offroad website here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/ktm-husqvarna-crankshaft-oil-seal-press-tool-cospt/
I see you didn't use any gasket sealing paste for the powervalve cover rubber thing. I'd be surprised if you don't have an oil leak afterwards. I put sealing paste even on the clutch cover gasket near the powervalve, as per service manual to prevent leaks. I own a 300 exc 2017.
Yep you are right. I think he will have a leak... And he'll need to pull it all apart again...
My experience so far has been that If a new gasket is used it seals OK without using sealant. But if you do experience leaks it’s easy enough to remove the cover and add some sealant afterwards. I prefer not to use sealant if possible as it creates a lot more work to clean off when overhauling, but will do so if necessary.
You don't put sealing paste on the gasket itself, but on the rubber thing through which the pv rod goes through. The experience with the newer ktm, especially with the 2020s has been terrible so far, all have an oil leak at the pv cover starting from the first hours. My 2017 had the first leak after I changed the piston, at 143h. Used a new powervalve gasket, of course. However, only after applying sealant on the rubber thingy which ktm calls "sealing carrier" I got rid of the leaking. And that thing is a three parts piece, one sealing carrier and two sealing elements.
@@lisimahus well my friend has a 2020 250 exc Tpi, but I haven't noticed any leak so far... But gottq check it
@@andrejskamla9736 he may very well be a lucky exception :)
Why did you remove the waterpump cover?
You can’t remove the side case without removing it. The water pump cover bolts pass through the side case.
@@TokyoOffroad Just checked: The two rear bolts of the waterpump cover can remain in place, only the two front bolts need to be removed. Very nice video by the way!
Procedure should be the same for 24 300xcw? My 24 has started smoking pretty heavy an I'm losing gear oil. 55 hours, really disappointed
Wow, that's quick for the seal to goo bad. I just compared the 2017 300 vs 2024 300 parts and the crankshaft and oil seals are the same part numbers, so the Tokyo Offroad Crankshaft Oil Seal Press Tool is compatible too.
@@TokyoOffroad I know, I was so disappointed when I figured out what was going on. This is by far my favorite 300, never been happier with a bike. I'd assume defective seal or poor installation, I haven't got it apart yet
@@tylerhall3854 Yes, that is very disappointing for it to go so quickly. If the seal is the cause I hope the replacement lasts a lot longer...
@@TokyoOffroad my parts are supposed to be delivered tomorrow, if I see anything crazy when I get it apart I'll let you know
What happens if you drive the seal to far? Asking for a friend
It's not super critical. just so long as it creates a good seal on the distance sleeve it should be fine.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you for the reply, I'm not as worried now
Can you tell me what oil you are using for the crank seal and other components?
I used transmission oil. The recommended transmission oil for my bike is Motorex Topspeed 4T 15W/50.
Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.
Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.
Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.
Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.
What are the dimensions of this distance sleeve?
Sorry, I don't have one at hand to measure right now...
@@TokyoOffroad Ok, because the old distance sleeve of my old 2000 exc 250 run in and burn some gear oil. You can't buy the proper distance sleeve for my bike anymore :( So I thougt that I can use it from the new models....
they make a set of seal driver tools or you could just use a socket that is the same size.... pretty easy... not really any reason to make up a tool everyone has sockets for the most part... :)
It's a large seal and many people have trouble installing it using a socket as it can easily get canted. The tool I made locates on the crankshaft thus helping the seal get canted while being driven in.
Shouldn’t the spring side of the seal go in the oil side? Like all other wet seals? The seal is backwards from every other video.
Yes, the spring side of the seal goes in (on the oil side). And that's how I installed the seal. Have another look at the video...
I’m confused, it looks like the way you put the seal in the tool that the spring is facing the crank side. Oil is sitting on the clutch side.
@@slowman9786 - Ah, no, I see what you’re talking about no (transmission oil). No, the orientation of the seal is correct in the video. The spring side of the seal goes in towards the crankshaft. You can see the original seal before removal is the same orientation…
Ok, just wanted to make sure. Mine was also like yours but my bike has had previous owners and there are mixed views on how this seal goes in.
@@slowman9786 I'm 100% sure of the seal orientation and is as shown in the video. It's the same on all KTMs I've seen.
Why is my crankshaft gear stuck on the shaft? Nut is off
Sometimes they are a tight fit and don’t pull easily off by hand. If you have a gear puller use that and it’ll pop off very easily
@@TokyoOffroad if my seal doesnt have any visible damage could it still be bad? My bike has all the symptoms - oil on my swing arm, super smokey, boggy, low oil levels etc
@@TokyoOffroadthat worked so well thank you
@@TokyoOffroadmy distance collar is just as stubborn coming out - any advice for that?
should not use brake clean on the engine it can strip any protective coatings and etc so carb cleaner and brake clean are not the best for cleaning stuff like that it is more for parts like rotors and such... or dirty bolts but use it away from the bike unless you want it misting across your bikes paint job
There are various different types of cleaner. The one I use (Monotaro 2000 Brake and Parts cleaner) in my experience is safe on KTM wheel, frame and engine part finishes. I've used it for over 5 years on my bikes and never seen it affect painted finishes. Here is a translation of the product listing: Monotaro Brake & Parts Cleaner 2000 "Cleans dirt such as oil and grease adhering to brake linings, brake drums, mechanical parts, etc. Quickly and cleanly removes dirt such as oils and fats and carbon without scattering various dust generated from the brake device into the air. ..
In addition, it is a cleaning agent that does not contain any chlorofluorocarbons and trichloroethane that cause ozone layer depletion and environmental pollution, and is not subject to the Organic Solvent Poisoning Prevention Regulations.
Not applicable to Organic Solvent Poisoning Prevention Regulations.
Non-fluorocarbon, non-trichloroethane.
Cans can be used upside down."
An impact wrench will break those 27mm nuts loose without a gear jammer. Just don't put the nuts back on with an impact of course.
I often use an impact for nut removal, but like you said never for installation. In the videos I typically use hand tools though, to show it's possible as some people don't have an impact.
Mine went at 60hrs on my TX300 , wasn’t impressed 🤔
Yep ktm had issues with this... My friend had to replace it on his 19 husky 300i.... Bike had only 45hrs... But every brand has its flaws....
Yes, that's not good. It doesn't appear to be a widespread issue though, at least not to my knowledge, although I have heard of a few early failures. For an early failure (which 60H is) I'd definitely discuss it with my dealer. Possibly there was an issue with the seal, or it was damaged during installation. If the seal is installed correctly it should last a long time...
@@andrejskamla9736 Meanwhile some 1980's bikes run for 200hours with original cranks and seals :)
Nowadays you need to invent problems to be unique and "change" I guess..
How did you know when it failed? What indicators did you have?
andrewg367 bike runs way too rich and you can smell the gear oil burning from the exhaust, you’ll also use gear oil over time
Insert your tool 👀 what kinda video am I watching here?
LOL
I like the part where he drives it in