How To Warm Up a 2 Stroke Dirt Bike - Are you doing this WRONG?
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2024
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Although I've never fouled a plug on a bike larger than 65cc's in the decade I've been doing this, I keep getting people reaching out to me with new fuel injected 2 strokes telling me they are fouling plugs. After interviewing about a dozen of them, one thing is really clear. They are letting the bikes idle for 10-20 minutes at a time to warm them up! That is death to a 2 stroke! In this video, we are going to talk about my methods to warm a 2 stroke dirt bike up.
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I think this guy just wanted us to see his balancing skills.
And his truck
Couldn't see anything , to much glare from his head
@@dillonarmitage930 this comment was so unnecessary and totally funny.
@@dillonarmitage930 lol
@@dillonarmitage930 lmao
The number of different ways you can run a 2-stroke is based on the number of people you ask.
There's a manual for a reason 😋
@@robbed_of_sanity well are you just talking someone word from a book? because someone still had to write the manual....
@@hunterbear2421 every manufacturer has a suggested method of warmup
@@robbed_of_sanity yes but your still asking someone to tell you what you should d. not really asking if your reading but you know
@@hunterbear2421 I'm trusting the engineers who designed the engine 😜
Takes 2 seconds: it was a little slow to start
Me over here kicking my bike a thousand times lol
Then just throwing it into the river.
Rebuild it
check the reeds
Your compression must be bad… I got a 98 kx 125 been sitting for 10 years due to leaky fork seals and not enough time to get to it long story short put gas in her messed with my carburetor and boom 1 kick and she starts no problem
Rebuild that, if i can start my kx500 in one to two kicks its time for a rebuild and im not a musclely guy at all
I prefer to tape the throttle wide open before hitting the start button. I prefer my pistons to cold seize.
SAME
Thought I was the only one
Popular method at my riding spot
I have cold seized zero engines and ran every 2 stroke imaginable for decades.
Does good on vehicles as well
I literally start my bike run it for 30 seconds go out riding stay slow not giving the beans until my radiators are warm/hot then I give it the beans
The beans
What sought of beans do you give?
I put beans in my gasser, runs hot and fast, better than any petrol mix
Habachuelas
I do the same but I touch the expansion chamber to see if it's warm.
Can't wait to see every 2 stroke rider balancing before they hit the track. Just gear up, start the bike and twist the throttle a few times. Then just start riding without revving to much for a few minutes and you’re ready to go. It's fine to let the engine work while warming-up, just don't rev to the moon.
Right, i have a50 ccm old 2 stroke SYM Eoro x skoter, never rebuild , when come from a swimming hall i go to i go straight uphill but let it rew a little moderately on the first part of the hill. 27000kmt on it,s original engine, often outside year round.Syntethic 2 stroke oil
@@kaavest You probaply managed to do that because its got shit for power, not because youve ran it correctly
@@thme6413exactly this, it’s totally different compared to a high performance 2 stroke engine
Owned 2 strokes since early 80’s so I had a watch and I must say, never had a problem with goo
Exactly.. this is dumb. You let it idle until you put your gear on and then easy on the throttle. Technology today is way beyond goo stuff.
Exactly. I'm 42 and had 2 stroke bikes, equipment, saws, etc. For decades. Fire it up and go.
Even MXA,---does not know how to jet a 2-stroke carb today. :(
Exactly. He know how to ride, but he doesn’t know much about bikes
Depends on your oil....shit oil will goo and foul.....but I too have never had an issue
you dont warm up a 2 stroke...just ride it easy on the motor first 5 mins
Worst advice ever
@@s.a.t419 why, I think he's right?!?!
@@s.a.t419 it's kind of true. Getting the bike to operation temp fast is the best thing you can do while keeping the rpms low. Using the bike slowly is better than letting them sit.
Y’all wigging over it when in reality it’s $350 to rebuild them when they go. What are you saving yourself 10 extra hours of engine time? If you ride it why be so scared to wrench
Yep. Put light stress by light and easy riding blipping throttle to medium revs. Soon as the cylinder or radiator gets warm get on it. Two strokes love to rev. Throw a top end on it now and then. No biggie
I certainly warmed up with two strokes this morning...👍
If you can foul a plug on a TPI you deserve some kind of award 🤔🤣
To be fair, it doesn't seem crazy to let an engine idle until warm, even if you know most of the big differences between 2/4 stroke engines. Especially considering that it's a fuel injected engine, which we usually consider to be more precise with fuel delivery than carburetors. I wouldn't have expected this issue. The oil injection is new to most of us.
Where is my reward!?
Give me a tpi as my award
My tpi had a fouled plug when I went to pick it up at the dealership. Bit of a shock picking up a brand new bike and the mechanics are struggling to get it started when you arrive!
lol.. you obviously dont own one
Thank you Kyle! Excellent advice, I will definitely be changing my warm-up method.
For one who mostly rode 250 four strokes, and now got a 250 two stroke (TPI), this was a HUGE help. Thanks! (its easy to confuse a TPI bike with four stroke)
Merry Christmas Kyle. Thanks for a year of vids. Prosperous new year to you🥳
Been saving up for one for like 4 years now, doing good , can’t wait to actually buy one 🥰
Get a 2-stroke. Get a YZ125 or 250 (depending on how heavy you are), because you can still get one of those for about 7 grand, and they are much cheaper to maintain than a 4 stroke, and easier to work on by far. If you are saving for 4 years,---you can't afford to rebuild a 4-stroke. If you ride a lot, from a new 250 2-stroke, you can run all summer with one set of piston/rings, tires, chain and sprockets. That is around $400.00 to basically freshen up you bike during the winter.
get a tecate 3 or the dirtbike version if you can find one they're a blast
Just bought my first 2 stroke, about to take my second ride on it, glad I saw your video. Thanks
Merry Christmas and happy new year !! Thanks for always have the best videos and podcasts. Always looking forward to more from you.
Leave a single track and ride more !
Gotta stop repeating everything so much. Get to the main points. Great instructional video though 🤙🏼
I have never owned a two stroke, so this is great information. I like that you do videos like this. Not everyone has been doing this for years.
Kyle is a good guy I'm sure. However, he's only been riding for 10 years, there's better knowledge out there from industry guys that have been doing it for 30 years or more. I think Kyle makes safe vids for the people with money who can afford new bikes and top of the line gear with little to no experience. Some of his information is good though.
Well I am just waiting for my first 2 stroke to arrive, so thanks for the heads up! 👍
Well I've been doing it wrong for 50 years. This explains a lot. Always thought I should let it idle for 5 or ten minutes. Thanks Kyle. Merry Christmas everyone.
40 years, max. Water cooling on dirt bikes hit production in 1980 or 81.
I think 81 but could be 80 : )
@@clintperry799 81 for sure. By 82, almost all of them were water cooled. There may have been a 125 in 1980, not sure. I think Honda was the first in 81 for the 250. I had the 82 YZ250 with the radiator behind the front number plate when I started racing in 84. I think your right. :)
Not sure about other bikes but YZ125 came out in 1976, liquid cooled since 1981.
Great to know! Glad I watched this, I too am guilty of treating my 2-stroke like I would a 4-stroke
The cold start button is fitted on the side of the throttle valve body. If the engine is cold and the ambient temperature is low, the electronic fuel injection system extends the injection time. To help the engine burn the increased fuel quantity, it must be supplied with additional oxygen by pulling the cold start button.
PAGE 17 in the Manual
Bingo. This vid is full of bad information for TPIs specifically.
@@NastyhabitzREADINGS FOR NERDS!
Braaaaaapppppppppppp
No but for real… peruse the manual. Might save your cheeks
It’s not an electrical switch. It an air bypass that needs to be open when ever the engine is being started from cold. The ecu looks at the engine water temperature sensor. If the temperature is below its normal operating temperature the ecu is programmed to increase the amount of oil being sent to the throttle body. This extra oil needs more air to help it burn. Once the engine starts getting close to it’s operating temperature the ecu will stop introducing this additional oil and the air bypass button can then be closed.
A 9 minute video to show you how to warm up a 2 stroke? Cmon man
Love that shirt, your videos have been so helpful for me learning my new 300 xcw
My Husqvarna dealer’s recommendation is to start the engine, leave to idle for 2/3 minutes and hit the kill switch. Leave for 1 minute and start the bike again. Leave for 2/3 minutes on tickover and ride for 2/3 minutes as if you’re running in a new engine. With current 2T’s you must allow the crank case and ambient pressure sensors do their job.
Apart from hitting the kill switch, that’s very much how I’ve operated 2T’s and 4T’s for decades and I’ve never had a problem.
Lol. Or you can just start it and run it for the same results.
Kyle (Dirtbike Channel) has another video where he says that new tpi bikes should auto adjust while running when set up properly. When not set up properly, they need to be shut off. I think that’s right. Others experiences?
@@agooddadandadirtbike7149 ......I reckon the Husqvarna technical guys, the same guys involved in the development of the engine and it’s component parts, with hours of testing to their credit will understand the behaviour and set up somewhat better than perhaps most, including Kyle.
I live at sea level, travel with the bike inside a van into the hills where obviously the ambient pressures are significantly different. Starting the bike and riding away immediately will affect performance, the APS and possibly the CCPS will take time to adjust.
I go through the procedure of start/stop/start whilst kitting up and never had a problem. I take heed from technicians rather than assumptions from a non qualified individual based on ...... what exactly..... other than riding experience.
I have recently replaced the CCPS on my 2020 TE300 and trust me....it has returned the bike to when new. These sensors are fickle it would appear and I now keep one in stock.
Interested to read other peoples ideas on this.
I usually just let it idle with blips for about a minute or so then take an easy sight lap and let'r rip!
This is what I do.
Your way of doing it is exactly how I do it and probably 90 percent of how we all do it. No need to do all that stuff he is doing, all of that was just to make a video. Start it, blip it a few times, take a slow lap around the track while bliping it a few more times and then start riding. Very simple.
@@MrJames-dk3my You may be able to get away with that with no damage, but I prefer to get the water hot before I take off. If you work on your own bike, check the piston diameter above the ring. If it is scuffed, that will because the hot piston crown was expanding faster than the cold cylinder, so it touched a bit. A well jetted bike, (that will not foul plugs), makes even more heat, so the water warm up is more important there. If you don't have scuffing, there is no problem with the way you do it. But that might not be the same if you jet leaner for the best power, or on a different bike.
This was a good explaination /demonstration too see for me personally, coming from a 4-stroke db. I am in the market to purchase a 2-Smoker so I am trying to learn as much as possible.
My humble approach to things in life is don't assume you know, read and ask questions.. Dig your Channel and your approach.
- Thx again for the info! 🤙🏽
Thanks for the video Happy Christmas Eve man hope you guys have a merry Christmas bless you and your family keep up the good work Buddy.
I’m glad I’m inpatient, I usually let mine idle for about 2 minutes and then when it hits 100° I hold it wide to blow all the gunk out and then ride it around the pits for a couple minutes
I have done it this way for the past 35+ years and no problems at all. My first power valve bike was a 1986 KX500 and never had it gum up because a professional porter and engine builder taught me to warm it up with a load to prevent scuffing and fowling plugs.
knowledge is power, been giving 2 strokes load to warm up since i was 6
Personally I feel it wise to not put any load on piston skirts or cylinder walls until they are both up to temp and have expanded to what the engineers intended them to run at... especially the pistons.. they are not round until they are heat soaked and up to temp. Ive always let all my two-strokes idle or lightly blip until up to temp for this reason and have never encountered any issues. Sure they load up with fuel but that clears out soon enough. just dpesnt make sense to me to load an engine when the piston is out of round.
You don’t need to check your radiator temps, you can tell when the bike is warm when you blip the throttle a little, if it’s cold it will be a bit doughy and un responsive and when it’s warm it will be responsive and I guess “crisp”
In an air cooled engine, I don't have much problem with that. The cylinder and piston will expand at about the same rate. But with water cooled, the water will keep the cylinder cool while the piston gets hotter and expands more. If you have the clearance, (like cars), no problem. But it has and does happen with MX bikes if you get on it right when it runs clean, (but cold water), you can "cold seize" the piston, or at least scuff it. If you work on your own engines and see scuff marks on the diameter of the piston above the ring, (the crown area), you need to warm up the water more so the cylinder can expand before you put the engine under load. It is a pretty simple thermal expansion issue. I have a buddy who fixes all this stuff and i build 2-stroke engines for a living. I am sure all engines act a little different about it. We fixed/modified a customers RM125 last summer and it was running great with perfect jetting, (hotter exhaust gas than typical rich jetting), and the first thing the customer did was not let the water warm up and just blasted down the dirt road. He cold seized it in less than a half mile down the road.
Merry Christmas Kyle!!! Hope you and your family have a great and safe holiday!
I’ve tried everything on my 2000 yz250 and what I found works best in order to not foul a plug literally during startup is to let it idle with choke until it’s hot enough to idle without it. After this I let it idle till coolant temp is around 100
It’s unnecessary to do the balance stuff. I have my helmet on already before I start it, give it a couple seconds, then start riding. I just give it 10 minutes of easy riding before going full throttle.
Next time you change your piston and rings, note if there is scuffing on the walls of the piston, and especially more wear above the ring at the exhaust port and all around it. If you see any damage like that, you need to let the water warm up more before you take off. Jet your bike well, and not only will it run and idle clean, but it takes less time to warm up because the exhaust gas temps will be a couple or so hundred degrees hotter than stock jetting.
@@EarthSurferUSA no scuffing. As I said, ride it easy to warm it up. But all engines, and especially 2-strokes, wake up better under load. So riding around mid throttle warms it up quickest without doing damage and keeps it from loading up.
@@kevinclark9176 unless someone were to put a wiseco piston or any other forged piston. U can’t put them under any load for a couple of minutes when cold.
@@420motoripper2 load yes, full throttle no. Forged do take longer to warm up and more prone to cold seize, but riding around easy is not going to cold seize. You just have to give it a few more minutes of easy riding.
@@kevinclark9176 I have a wiseco piston and starts it and blip the throttle for a about a minute then ride easy havent had any problems with it yet
Definitely no throttle before or while starting per the KTM manual. Also pull the cold start button if it’s under 40 degrees out. KTM doesn’t mention a procedure after, but based on kyle’s logic wouldnt the bike fowl plugs during long stretches of idling during downhills or while stopped. I let mine warm up from stock while idling for 6-8 minutes and have never had any fouling issues. Radiators need to be warm before putting load on the engine.
Ever since I changed to Legends ZX-2R premix, my carbon and goo buildup went to almost nothing. With added bonus of much peppier throttle response and rev-ability. It’s based off mineral oils which create a super thin film on everything that actually penetrates into metal surfaces. You really should give it a review. 50:1 too btw, and it doesn’t separate over time or in the cold!
I don’t know if I’m wrong but when he said you will fill your power valve up with oil he pointed at the water pump
he pointed right below it to the power valve axillary spring adjuster
He pointed right below it to the power valve auxiliary spring adjuster.
Power valve spring adjuster
He was pointing at the cooldown button. I learned so much in this video.
The 2-stroke exhaust power valves do tend to get sticky. But proper jetting, (he fouls plugs when idling because he is too rich there), and a good synthetic oil, (Motul is my favorite, but expensive), and they will not "fill up with oil", (what ever that means). In fact, with good jetting and a clean oil, (jetting is probably more critical than what type of good oil you use), your valve will probably run freely all year, and just make cleaning it part of your annual maintenance. After checking it or cleaning it a couple times, you will get an idea of how often you need to clean it.
Great video buddy. I used to go out of town to ride my bikes. So a 4 hour drive to ride for a day I never wanted to work on it out on the road/trail so I always changed the plug and check packing. Reed valves and air filters is where a lot of 2 strokes have issues. And you are so right never ever let a 2 stroke just idle unless you are breaking in a new engine and there is a set of steps to do that properly.
You don't let a bike idle to break it in.
when i start my 2 stroke, i rev it really high rpms so this helped a lot!
Back in the day you wouldn't set a 2t up to idle for long to keep from fouling plugs. It would need blips to stay running.
I still set my bike up like that 😅
@@fullnoyz7670 Yup I always found a 2t that could idle endlessly was also a bike that would bog out on the bottom.
Well said lads. Melbourne Australia🤙
@@fullnoyz7670 same
Exactly
"For the 10 years you have been doing this", you never changed a jet on a 2-stroke carb. lol If you can't let your 2-stroke idle, your pilot jet is probably too rich. I can tell already this crew does not know how to tune a 2-stroke. They have to come rich from the factory for different air conditions around the world, (so some do not seize). But if you want the best out of them, learn how to jet your carb correctly, and you can let it idle as long as you want, and rev it with very little smoke. You will also gain a couple HP and more top rpm,----and you will never foul a plug again.
And if the air temperature changes more than about 25 degrees during different riding dates, if you are using a very good oil like Klotz Supertechniplate or the very expensive but very clean burning Motul Kart GP 2-T oil, (proven great oils by some friends who has dyno test for oil effectiveness for years.), you can mix from 25:1 to 50:1 pretty safely. You can fine tune your jetting with your gas mix ratio. More oil, (like 25:1), through the jet means less gas through the jet, which means a "leaner" fuel/air ratio. It may sound backwards at first, but it is the gas/air that matters for a rich or lean running condition, not the oil.
Jet your 2-stroke crisply, and that will raise the exhaust temps a couple hundred degrees, also warming up the engine faster.
If he is riding the bike before the water is warm, even slowly, I do not want to see if you fouled any plugs, (I am sure you did not), but I would like to see how many scuffed pistons you have.
Welcome to the channel. I guess you have not' seen a number of my videos over the years. I've done multiple videos on jetting and working with carbs. Just in the last 4-6 weeks, I've installed and jetted 6 different carbs on my kids bikes and my bikes. On my 2021 125XC alone this week (Jan 14th 2021) I've been testing the Mikuni, Lectron, and Smart carb. Playing with and tuning each of them has been fun. Hope you have a good week!
@@DirtBikeChannel Fine, but you said letting it idle to warm up is 'Death to a 2-stroke" (in your vid text), but the worst that can happen if your idle circuit is "too rich", you may foul a spark plug. The fact is, if the fuel/air ratio is correct for any RPM of the running engine,---it will not foul a plug. If you don't know that, I would have to question how well you jet any carb. If you are testing different carbs, (or any engine modifications), you have to get the jetting good consistently from top to bottom,---or you will have performance differences that are from the inconsistent jetting, and come to the conclusion the difference is the parts you are testing, (which I am sure will have some differences also). The water will also warm up faster with good jetting compared to stock jetting, (which is always rich for a carbed 2-stroke off the showroom floor.). You don't have to let the engine idle to warm it up (as some you know do). You can rev it too. You should not have to worry about a fouled plug when warming up your bike. As soon as the top of the radiator is almost hot to the touch, (no glove on IMO), you are ready to roost.
"Smart carb"? Yea, I will stay away from that one. I have come to the conclusion that "smart" products, are for dumb people. :)
Hope you had a great summer. Doug in Michigan.
ive owned over 25 2 strokes and never had an issue with letting it idle for 10 mins, but they have all been 1984 and below
Yeah I let my 200 idle for 5-10 minutes while I put my gear on and then go riding and its been fine for me
As long as you're jetting, your mix ratios, and your gap are correct and in sync, you shouldn't have any issues. Throw one or more of these out of whack and you're gonna have problems.
Air cooled.
Thanks for this vid! I appreciate the teachings!
Thanks for sharing, just got a two-stroke 300 TI to match the 501 FS and I was doing actually something like this but it’s reassuring to know it’s best practices.
Been riding two strokes for 48 years. It’s comical to hear all these theories and strategies
Right lol I’ve always just kicked em and smell the smoke and once I feel the coolant get warmer than it was I start riding
I’ve literally never worried or heard about what this dudes talking about. I think he just has his stuff way too rich.
Haha goo
I think he’s talking a lot of bollocks
I agree I just start it up and run it until the radiators hot and then I clear it and away you go
He's not.
Hey man thanx for the video!!!
Good info
Great video Kyle! Enjoy watching all your content, I have a question on the various temp gauges you’ve put in this video are they monitoring the radiator or off of the spark plug? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This guy has taught me more than the 5 years in the garage with my grandpa pointing at things and expecting me to fix it
My favorite Christmas carol, is a two stroke warming up :)
😊😊😊😊😊
Sweet video, merry Christmas 🎄
I’ve been riding since 1977 and I’ve always just keep my hand on the pipe until it’s nice and warm, then hold it wide open with a couple of blips until it clears out. Then it’s time to ride. Never had a fouled plug or cold seized bike. I also run maximum 927 with 100 oct.
It is the water temp that you want to feel, not the exhaust smoke. I have been riding since 74, but did not have to warm up the water until 84, (my first water cooled bike). :)
I have never fouled a plug on any 2 stroke bike. I've idled them a lot because I loved the sound. Barely needed to blio the throttle if it's jetted good should be fine. My two cents.
I feel the best is just slightly above idle rpm. I do this for my saws as well as dirt bikes now I only own a 05 crd450r though.
Great video man, you always have great information!!
Personally I feel it wise to not put any load on piston skirts or cylinder walls until they are both up to temp and have expanded to what the engineers intended them to run at... especially the pistons.. they are not round until they are heat soaked and up to temp. Ive always let all my two-strokes idle or lightly blip until up to temp for this reason and have never encountered any issues. Sure they load up with fuel but that clears out soon enough.
Me with my 50cc derbi: FULL THROTTLE THE SECOND THE BIKE STARTS!
Samoi mut meitsil 65cc😳🥵
@@hdrd393d mikä vitun kitti on 65cc
@@Jim-jr7yx 65cc airsal skootteri
Kyle, what rear tire do you have on that great looking '21 300 XC-W?
This makes a lot of sense. I think I need to run my bike at higher rpms all the time, my YZ250 power valve vent tube has been spitting out a little bit of thick grey sludge after I shut it off. I don't foul plugs, but I run it at really low rpms most of the time. I just need to run a gear lower and get it warm enough to burn the oil better. I can usually touch the header pipe with my gloved hand for a few seconds or so before it gets too hot.
I'm so guilty of this. Having never owned a two stroke, I used to fire it up on the stand, gear up, walk to the bathroom, then go ride lol. Always wondered why I got so many dirty looks.
i'd stick with how to load dirt bikes if I were you
Your right about not letting it idle too long. I just start riding first and second gear not torquing or reving it too much then gradually start going faster as it warms up.
As long as you don’t start it cold and pin it like everybody does with there leaf blowers and chainsaws. You can get a cold seizure going that.
This is nice to know thanks and stay safe out there!
We use to have problems with fouling plugs back in the early 70’s. It probably had something to do with the way we warmed it up too. But more so because of the oil ratio we had to run. 20:1 one plug to start the bike and another to when the bike was warm.
20:1💀 Jesus
Hope everyone gets a bike under their Christmas tree 🎄. Merry Christmas 🎄
I’m praying lol
I must have been bad
I wish, I'll take a brand new 300 xcw
The way a off road bike and a MX bike its jetted is worlds apart . Most top MX engine builders will have a notation in jetting recommendation's that the engine should stall after a few seconds of idling when properly jetted and the air screw is adjusted properly.
Looks like you have the new shinko 520DC installed on the 21 300 xcw. Do you plan to do a review on that tire? My local shop has some in stock and they are very soft in the center and stiffer outter lugs!
Actually on my new tpi bike, pull additional air knob out and let it fast idle until fully warm at radiators. Goo? Never.
Completely agree. I have never used Kyle's approach, never fouled plugs, top ends and power valves always look great. But I have only been riding 2 strokes since 1976, so.
Same, zero issues
If you can jet a 2-stroke carb well, you can get rid of the goo and plug fouling too, and almost all the smoke, (except at start of the warm up only). Get more power too. :)
2-strokes with a carb are always shipped rich, and it is up to use to re-jet them for best performance before we make a vid about them. :) I would not tune them as lean as a electronic engine management system can get away with, (more control, I admit, but to the very edge of failure, do I trust?), but you can get pretty close, and pretty much smoke anybody who did not jet their carb.
@@duanegriffey7021 If you have been riding since 76, (me same at 74, but my first 2-stroke in 76), and if you every made it work better for fun or racing, than you learned how to jet the carb. :) They are shipped rich. We have to jet them for the best performance and ease of maintenance, (carbon build up stinks). They are not suppose to foul plugs, they are not suppose to gum up power valves fast, (some gum up easier than others though), they are not suppose to smoke much, (only on start up if jetted well). From 76? I am sure you have done it. But nobody knows how to do it anymore with the new generations. In amateur MX racing in the 80's, if you jetted your carb well, and had a good running bike, you had an edge on most racers who did not jet their carb well. Most of the "few and fast guys" had it down, but not many others.
Do you rev it at all or just let it idle until warm for a minor 2 and then ride? New to this, thanks!
No, it’s most definitely NOT damaging to let your TPI idle, in fact it’s what ktm says you should do. The ECU adds fuel and oil during cold starts. By giving it throttle/blipping/riding before it’s warm, the ecu is adding even more oil, increasing the likelihood of fouling. Let it idle until warm, then ride easy until it’s 70c/150f.
Also use the cold start as per the manual. It’s an air bypass that helps it burn the extra oil during cold starts.
Dude, no one reads the manual! lol.
you'll only foul it if your blipping and then walk away and let it sit and idle while it is still warming up. Idc what ratio KTM is cold start adjusting for, if you manage the warm-up you will be fine, leaving it to idle or blipping.
I like the idea of a easy warm up just over idle like Kyle shows however with 100 plus hours on my 2019 tpi idle till warm almost every ride zero fouled plugs or excess oil out exhaust
Some good advice Kyle. My sons 2021 KTM 125XC with 150 cylinder is even more critical due to the forged pistons used from the factory. Those forged pistons need a little extra time to grow.
Good info here Kyle. I'm one of the guys that reached out to you regarding my 2021 250XC TPI fouling plugs. The KTM's are awesome bikes but the TPI makes them WAY more temperamental than carb bikes (From my experience).. My 2021 YZ125X ran like a TOP super crisp! Stock plug with about 50'ish hours on it. Anyways... I'm sure this video will help a lot of guy's.
If you’re fouling plugs, it could definitely be because of your warm up procedure. IMO, Kyle’s suggestions could increase fouling, not help. Could also be your CCPS sensor going bad, or even a failing seal in the oil pump.
If you are repeatedly fouling plugs your bike has an issue. If your TPI bike doesn’t run super crisp once it gets to temp and stops blubbering, you have a problem with the bike.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I just watched your video... I'm picking up a 2021 TE250i tomorrow gonna give the Austrians bikes another try. I'll see what the dealer suggests too? Yes you guys do have somewhat opposing views. DBC was very kind and helpful when I reached out I will say!
@@SteveKiziak You’ll love the bike, congrats!
@@WASemiHardEnduro Thanks!
Very relavent vid considering all the tpi 2 strokes now that idle nicely when cold. Im an old timer with a carbed xcw. It doesnt idle when cold so your forced to babysit and blip throttle lightly for a few minutes before it will even pull. Merry xmas!
I always smooothly ride over fields in mid- range RPM clicking through the gears and when I aarive at the motocross track, it's all warmed up and ready to ride 😊
I’ve had the same top end on my Yamaha blaster for 10 years. I know there’s well over 100 hours on the motor…. Maybe over 200 hours. Unsure, but I rode the thing a lot. As a kid I didn’t know you were supposed to let engines warm up, so as soon as I started the machine I was off haha. Now I just let it idle for about 3 minutes then casually drive for about 10 minutes and she’s ready for the beans. I also just changed the transmission oil for the first time a week ago…. And everything seems to work flawless still
1. Warm your bike just enough so it doesn't drown the engine when you apply full throttle
2. Put it in first gear and start moving
3. Full throttle, don't shift, run the engine in redline for 5 minutes and done! now you have a warm engine!
And a bad transmission, 1st gear will be like 😤😫😰🤬🥵🤢🤮😵💀☠👻
Most people leave it in neutral and rev it lightly every 5 seconds for 15 seconds and then after about a min or two they'll redline it 5-15 seconds and let it idle for 30 seconds and repeat about 4x then shut the bike off until they're ready to ride, easy warm up.
You run a two-stroke wide open in first-gear and you're going to flip it. Tpi's are not like the old two strokes.
On page 280 of my TX 300i Owners Manual, it describes the proper way to warm a cold engine. It is NOT the way that you indicates to do this.
Yeah DBC is definitely showing you how NOT to do it on a TPI. It’s bad advice.
How do you start yours???
@@eric89q To start with the "COLD START" button is not a choke. It actually lets air into the engine. So if you don't use the CS button when cold you do run the risk of fouling a plug.
So when the ECU knows that the engine is cold, it goes full rich on fuel and adds more oil. When the cold start is pulled, the air mixed with the extra fuel put the motor into a high idle and the ECU controls the speed on the engine.
I have a 2020 TX300i and I've put a Trail Tech fan on it. So when I start my engine, be it 40 degrees or 90 degrees outside, I pull the CS button and let the engine run, at high idle, until the temp gage reads at least 130 degrees. If you don't have a temp gage of some sort on your bike, let it run until the tops of the radiators are warm to the touch. Then it's ready to ride.
Letting the engine warm to until the tops of the radiators are warm, should be used on 4 strokes also.
Mike Burnett thanks for the detailed response. So the cold start is pulled out the entire time until the top of the rads are warm and then you put it back and ride? Or should it idle a bit more with the cold start off after rads are warm?
I’m getting xcw Saturday and never had a 2 stroke, just trying to get ahead of the curve. I ride a raptor right now, let it warm for a few then go. Thanks again.
@@eric89q You are correct, once the temp is up in the top of the radiators. Turn off the CS and ride away.
Good choice on your new bike! Congrat's!
Good to know, thanks! Is that a new XCW? Are they not including the little fender for the taillight and fender now?
Thank you for the info kyle
That 2021 might be the sexiest KTM I have ever seen😍🤩
Apparently Ive been warming up my '20 300xc like a four stroke. The plug electrode was a coffee color when I inspected it at 30 hours and I've never fouled a plug.
Shit,I let my model for like five minutes when it’s cold I’ve never felt a plug
Basically what Jeff Slavens has said previously. Start, put helmet on, ride off slowly short shift until up to temp.
Thank you for these rare videos sir ❤
Damn... I have the 2021 XCW... I've been doing it wrong haha
My TpI bike always runs rich and blubbers until it comes up to temperature then runs amazing. That was until a few weeks ago when I had a crankcase pressure sensor failure. Bike would not ‘clear up’ and runs terrible. Acted like a oil fouled plug but was actually a sensor failure.
Thans one of the problems with the tpi's they are just stuffed with electronics , got to love the old and simple two strokes
@@mathisk5605 no the TPI injection is actually very simple. Seems like the two leading issues are CCP sensor failure and fuel pump failure. Fuel pump is the same as virtually every fuel injected motorcycle or ATV. CCP sensors seem to have a low MTBF but will most likely become more reliable as revisions to the sensors are made. History has shown fuel injection is more reliable than carburetors. I feel the TPI bikes are close to being as reliable as a carb bike already, and will get more reliable if the quality of fuel pumps and CCP sensors is improved.
@@mikeh423 yes i also think that tpi is the future but as long as tpis are not more reliable it prefer a carburetor bike because i think everyone agrees that most issues with Thema can be solved in the middle of a forest , at least its easier than changing a fuel pump in the middle of a forest because you prbably dont have one with you on a normal ride
Looking at getting my first 2stroke this coming May, that is if...or more like when...I don’t win. 😂 this was super helpful ive never Fouled plugs on my chain saws or any two stroke equipment but always wondered if 2stroke dirt bikes are different than my saws.
@dirtbikechannel so your NOT using the cold start? At what temp would you use it then?
Wow, a whole decade he's been riding! That makes him an expert.
I've been alive for 30 years...So I must be an expert on Living right? lol.
I start and go. I ride slow for like 5 10 mins then riding the pipe baby.
I start it, idle for a minute, ride light on the throttle for the first minute or so.
That’s what she said
Thanks for providing good stuff
Depends on your piston material spec and bore to piston clearance.
The only comment I agree with!
It’s the 24th 🤟🏼🤟🏼
O yeah
Do you think this will work for my 2007 cr85 expert?
@Syver Bertilrud ok thx
Great video! Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas. Good job
Honestly I’ve idled my 2 stroke for a good minute while giving tiny throttle blips and nothing ever has happend to my biek
Great way to do wear to the clutch and motor by dragging the clutch when it cold and putting all that load on it
Thank you for the information and help
I really like the wooden bike stands in the shop part of the video. I think I'll make some myself.
Kyle thank you for sharing all your expertise and accumulated knowledge from untold thousands of devoted hours to provide these videos. I've recently renewed my desire to breathe i the fresh mountain air on a bike once again. I am 65 now , raced ameture MX in ' 74 on a Elsinore 125 during the MARTY SMITH years.
I make it a point to support your channel , your magazine and your family's future success so we may continue to enjoy the sport ! I thank you from the bottom of my heart! Ride safe!
PATRIOT; #927
WALT SPRENKLE
he aint gunna send u noods
Lol, my father in law needs to see this. He starts it then revs it wide open. Just don’t wanna come off as an asshole lol!
Yea my buddy taught me thay way also kicks it on then holds it wide open like a maniac till he thinks it's warm then takes off hahahaha
@@gophop Exactly, I do a slow sight lap on my RM250. The bike doesnt like to rev till I do an entire lap around the track slow. Its really bad if you have a forged piston to rev it hard before its warm enough.
Wish I knew about this back in 1987. Used to let the (very cold-blooded) Kawasaki F7 idle for several minutes, then ride off.
The smoke clouds were *huge.*
I think I’m having this problem with my 92 300 Ktm , the pipe got a little gooed up, first time owning a 2 stroke all I rode was 4 stroke so definitely different. Any tips on anything would be helpful, thanks.