LIVE | Portable 12 volt Diesel Heater Review & Modifications for camper trailers, tents and vans
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2021
- In this follow up episode we review out 12 volt ebay portable diesel install, run through some considerations and complete a few modification to keep you safe and make life a lot easier!
Are these portable heaters a compromise, of course they are! For us however it provides added flexibility by being able to leave at home when we are not using it, maximising our year round camper storage space.
We create a removable exhaust with support stand, heat wrap the exhaust tubes, detail carbon monoxide alarms, revise our intake and provide a suggestion on simplifying the controls.
Below is a list of items used in this video to help you out:
Insulated exhaust wrap - link to kit used:
www.koolwrap.com.au/product/k...
Ebay Diesel Heater 24mm Exhaust Silencer Muffler 25mm Air Filter Pipe 60cm kit - link to item used:
www.ebay.com.au/itm/353537226814
Exhaust support:
Bunnings items used:
Australian Handyman Supplies 90 x 90mm Internal Fixing Post Bracket - I/N: 1130413
Zenith 12 x 160 x 30mm Zinc Plated Eye Twist Screw - I/N: 4220718
You will need an additional nut to secure the eye bolt also.
Simple control dial:
Karl Kool RV - 12V/24V Simple Control Knob Switch for Diesel Heater:
karlskoolrv.com/products/12v-...
Thanks for watching and as we always say... stay safe, get out there and have fun!
#workliveplay
#wlp
#dieselheater
Feedback may have already been provided. The exhaust pipe should slope down to allow exhaust condensate to properly drain. The muffler also has a small condensate drain hole that should be orientated down for proper draining. Think of the exhaust pipe and muffler as a water drain tube, because that's part of what it is.
Thanks for the video. Great tips.
If you have constant condensation it means your heater is over fueled.
You can trim it down it will burn much cleaner and won’t stink at all.
Jon Rudolph ..I was going to point that out too, Jon. I had a Jayco Swift a while back, but changed to a 17 ft. Oasis Starlite pop top caravan, and I love it. As with all small vans, you are pretty limited where you can install this unit. Mine is a smaller unit than this one, sits much lower, and I'm thinking about installing it it the front boot. The exhaust and air induction wont be a problem, but piping the warm air into the van might be. I'm only going to use one inlet, but getting it through to the van interior, through the cupboards under the sink, might be a bit of a mission. It's sitting on the bench in the garage atm, while I decide what to do. The boot idea is mainly because I don't want it IN the van.
I don’t think that would be a problem based on the fact that the exhaust is being removed when he travels around so it would dry out anyway
Pro tip for exhaust wrap, soak the wrap in water before applying the wrap to your exhaust. Wetting the wrap allows for a cleaner and tighter application.
and put the end of the wrap in your bench vise so you can turn the pipe and get it nice and tight.
You shouldn’t need to clamp the starting end since it’s already trapped 😊
Mr Pro, Thanks for the tip. Now can I see your credentials and pro certificate, please?
thanks for the update, i did it basically the same as you did for our offroad van, i will now modify my exhaust as i like the idea that it takes it back to a smaller unit to transport
Hello from South Australia. Late to the party. Now looking for something similar for my Transit camper. I love your work, narration, video production, attention to detail and problem solving ability. May I respectfully suggest. Blocks of wood / Hi impact plastic on bottom of folded metal legs (or something to improve the height). That the exhaust be allowed to fall completely away from the unit to the muffler to avoid moisture pooling in bends / low spots. That the small hole in the muffler edge be positioned facing down always so moisture can drain from the muffler / system. That (for your application) you install hangers on the beams under the camper and hang the heater up off the ground by the handles and out of the way. Could save damage to the unit if you happen to need to move the camper whilst on site and forget the heater was there. There could be a quick spin on / off swimming pool / irrigation connection which may allow air / water tight connection for air outlet and a screw on cap when not in use. What about galv screw in water pipe fittings for exhaust junctions. Anderson connections for power (seem more robust than cigarette lighter style especially outside) Subscribed..
Add some feet to the bottom bracket. Only takes about a thousand dollars worth of 2x4 (current price).
Hi Tim, I did look at that and had two feet options but to be honest the more you complicate the portable unit, you may as well just do an in built one so left out to keep it simple. If I wasn't documenting it I would probably lift it up on some framing timber or use the feet but felt it was a bit agricultural so omitted. If I could have cnc cut some nice plates however... it could have been a nifty solution!
We are gunna look back at this comment one day and laugh at the prices of wood
I've now installed my diesel heater. It works and looks great. so now I'm now feeling great! Just got to finish the rest of the build to feel ever greater. 😷
Glad it helped. Its nearly nice winter camping weather so will have to get ours ready.
Super helpful. Especially the part about modifying the exhaust.
This guy puts the camp in camper😊
..... great video thanks for the upload
A lot of good info and ideas. I had bought a Mr. Heater Little Buddy but heard about the condensation problem you run into with an interior propane heater. For the all in one diesel, I would make the hot air duct coupling on the side of my camper. Thinking about having to crawl under the camper in mud, wet, snow doesn't appeal to me - the reason I moved up from tent camping. My squareback camper has a hitch on the back so I can put the heater on a cargo carrier attached to the hitch.
i have used mr heates for years. they have a water filter you buy that connects to your heater propane inlet. never had a problem with them. use them every winter. probably used them for around 10 years. i hook 20lb. and 40 lb. tanks on them. just in the begining of the year got to get all the air out of a 10ft 12ft. line. doesnt take long to do that
Great tips, thank you! I would advise to wear gloves when wrapping the exhaust pipe. I did that once on my motorbike without gloves and felt the itching a whole week!
Cool video mate, enjoyed the updates
I love this guy! Such good vibes!
Love this video thanks for sharing
Great update Cheers.
Great advice thanx 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
well done man!!!
Thanks!
Thanks, great info!
No problem Gary. It's been a bit of an experiment. Its actually quite good seeing varying reactions to this!
Any thoughts on using a welding blanket to protect the ground/vegetation from catching fire?
Thanks for this great tuto. Any idea to tranfer heat from the exaust pipe to heat a water insulated tank ?
Thanks for the update. Good improvements and correction of your exhaust. One comment is why not mount the unit to a board with some protection from the heat to the ground. Thus stopping any grass or direct heat to the ground. Also a question, how long does it take to cool down after stopping to them be cool enough to dismantle and pack away?
Thanks Darren. You could mount to some CFC or similar non combustible material however once you start doing that you are really getting to the point of perhaps just doing a fixed install. To be honest I have limited the modifications in this episode as the more you do, the less of an advantage having a portable unit has. Temperature wise, it cools down rather quick. Turn off say as you are packing away and within an hour it is fine to pack away.
Thanks for the detailed information on the updates. How do you prime the unit if the rotary temperature control is installed?
Good question! I might plug it in and see how it goes through that process. I've seen a few use it and don't seem to have an issue. I will get back to you.
I twisted a ball of 5m 0.25mm nichrome wire and placed it in the combustion chamber to expand the heat zone. Fuel vapor burns better as it passes through the high temperature zone. The effect was staggering. The fuel supply had to be restricted as it started to fail due to overheating. An aquarium metal tap had to be installed to limit fuel supply by 50%. Then the output has a 143c airflow at 1.6Hz and with 5l running in 27h in my variant. The fuel burns so well that there is almost no smoke from the exhaust pipe, only weak steam. I suggest you give it a try.
Nobody ever talk about having to clean? Diesel not always clean fuel lot of water in diesel but .most are light user anyway
Would you be able to provide more information? This sounds genius.
Question: Can you just connect the exhaust pipe directly (instead of using 90 degree copper piping) bend it 90 degrees at the base then through the hole you have drilled at the front of the Diesal Heater? Thanks for your efforts and the great instructions. Your a natural!
Hanging it from the handles is an easy mounting method. Keeps everything off the ground and uses no hardware. Allows the proper install of the exhaust. In the shop it is hung under a wall-cabinet from the handles 6 inches from the wall the exhaust is plumbed thru the wall underneath taking up a very small footprint . Outdoor a tree branch can be used.
Adding an inline fuel filter, I would highly recommend....
Thank You
Excellent!!! From UK!
Enjoyed your video and liked and subbed.
Hi, thanks for the update. John McK 47 on CZcams did the exact opposite though by putting the exhaust out the back and the air intake towards the front. . .
Yes and I followed that with the initial video only to discover that's the wrong way around unfortunately. Having the exhaust out the back of the unit means it will suck straight into the intake and flow it into the van. So I made a big point to correct in this video as I am constantly replying to the error unfortunately. Let me check the pipe sizes in the morning for you.
@@WorkLivePlay Hi! I have ordered genuine Eberspacher 24mm elbows. All good!
Hey just watched your vid. Awesome. Quick question I bought the wrong version of the heater. I bought the 4 outlet version in error. Can you please advise as to what I can do as I am not sure that i can return it. Thanks in advance
Great Vid. Where did you buy the longer duct?
Curious why you went with the additional flex exhaust tubing just to cut it down over using a small length of pipe coming off of your 90 degree elbow?
Something I did myself to improve the use of the CONTROL PANEL was to remove it from the unit and extended the wires and then placed them thru a flexible wire conduit sleeve to relocate the panel inside of my room/camper. However I found that by having the heater unit outside of my space being heated that it did not work quite as well. This being due to the fact that it was pulling in the cold outside air and then heating it, rather than pulling in the already warmer air from the inside of my room/camper and then heating that air much hotter. Thanks for your video just thought this might help someone out possible.
Hi Justin, yes I did look at that but it just adds another complication to what we were trying to keep as a simple plug and play solution. It would only be another connection so not too difficult and obviously makes it much nicer to operate. Certainly worth looking into.
Agree re not recirculating and again you could easily plumb in another line but to be honest I would do a built in unit if you were going that far. In our mild climate with limited use the experiment was to have a unit that quickly plugs in and at say 4-5 degrees Celsius is doesn't struggle at all. We often just have it idling along.
You need a sort of a heatexchanger in front of the air intake where the hot exhaustgas runs through.
Love the fitout and mods, am about to embark on the project. Just a quick question, could the air intake be setup in the same way with a pipe thru the floor so that already warm air was drawn into the unit from the van rather than the possibly very cold air from outside?
Yes mate you could, but they work fine otherwise , I have both types, these heaters do not need to be over engineered. I live in a cold climate never had an issue.
They say that if you use cold air it doesn't create a vacuum pressure sucking cold air through cracks or vents
Hi there - thanks so much for your video - very helpful - where did you purchase the black heat resistant duct joiner ?thanks
has anyone tried capturing the exhaust heat? I think if the exhaust went into a metal barrel before it was released to the air it would make a great radiator.
heres a thought, could the outlet vent be simply set onto the floor of the van in a corner/under the table, where it wont get in the way? Then you only need the one vent pipe that would connect directly to the vent ouitlet.
Hello have you got any tips on being sure that exhaust is not leaking at heater connection point as I use mine inside a wooden built man cave
I have used a exhaust paste also but I fell ill next day after using heater.
Carbon monoxide detector doesn’t go off even if I hold it at the end of exhaust so I’m not sure if I trust it.
My friend said if I block end of exhaust up like on a car I should hear a blow which I will try out
& by the way my exhaust exits the building through hole in the wall
Thx & good video
They sell an extension cable for that controller on ebay so you can mount it in side.
I have considered that. The more I try to add on - it becomes more efficient just to have a built in unit. That said its certainly a good option.
I am looking to buy one of these heaters to heat a small off grid cabin. Are you able to do any power consumption and running costings for that particular heater?
Has anyone tried running these heaters on clean waste oils? Either engine or cooking oils and if so how did they perform?
I have concerns with the exhaust being so close to any surface you place it on. I'd be thinking possibly a raised bottom that is also insulated from heat transfer to the surface it would be standing on. Or is the heater intake meant to also take in some air around the exhaust to help lower the exhaust temperatures?
Thank you for the vid. One question - does the unit have to be connected to 12v power or is it battery operated?
Thx for the vid, just a quick question what was the power source you used did you connect it to an outside source ? Thx in advance 👍
Hi Tatman - I have a Narva 12 volt accessory socket mounted to the underside of the floor in the corner of our boot space. The wiring is run internally to a fused connection on our battery management. Its hand as you can also plug in other 12 volt accessories on this side of the van now if need be. This was in the original video sorry.
is there a double wall insulated exhaust pipe one can get to fit this? I want to run it through a flange in my wall but would still prefer a double wall tube for better heat insualtion.
I'm not sure. There could be insulated ducting you could potentially use. I would just check to make sure it is heat resistant and for that matter fire retardant just to be safe. Most would be AC related from my experience.
Super fedt tips
the part of the exhaust that is in your house as it goes thru the wall. would,nt you want that unwrapped to provide more heat in your house ?
Won’t Running your exhaust like that run the condensation back down your pipe instead of coming out of the weep hole in the muffler?
Hi Paul - as this is not a fixed installation, condensation is not typically an issue as you are often only running the unit for a day or two. So the exhaust is easily pulled off and drained if required through transportation. Its one of those compromise things with the non fixed units unless you wanted to position on something which has its own dramas. If you do a fixed installation where the exhaust sits in one orientation permanently then use you want the muffler positioned so that is is at a lower point with the drain pointing down.
I don’t think the temp will go down that fast when you use the isolation on the exhaust so condensing will be very unlikely.
Great point, tough push water uphill😎
Where did you get the Duct Joiner from. Sown at 19.30 on the vid
Hi again, are your copper elbows 25mm or 28mm? The straight copper pieces I know you said are 25mm. . .
think a cage around the muffler would be a good idea.
Most importantly where did you get tbe extra lenth of duct from ? Cant find it anywhere bunnings etc dont have it
How long will a charged 12 volt battery run the heater?
How did you power the unit? I tried using a 12v cigarette socket but it doesn’t work unless I connect the terminals straight into the battery
The silencer needs to be the lowers point in the exhaust otherwise you will get moisture collecting in the exhaust pipe which will eventually rust.
Did you (or anyone) experienced smoke and bad smell from the black insulating wrap? Mine is unbearable and dont know if it will burn off the things that vapors.
what models is a 4 output port rather than one large heat pipe hole
What size elbow did you use? I cannot seem to find one to fit.
very good love the review and tips the heating costs have gone thought the roof here in the UK
i might get one the warm the house a question how much does it cost to run? per hour ?
Heat output depends on rate of diesel input. Heater likely will have a liters per hour rating on low & high settings.
Great Idea.. what size copper elbow did you use?
25mm he said or 3/4". Not sure if copper is rated for diesel exhaust though as noted in the comments below? I think it would work fine as the heat/exhaust that comes out of that is minimal.
Check out Eberspacher and Webasto catalogues exhaust sleaving, through body plates, pipe joiners, diverters etc have been available for many years to Comercial vehicle fleets, ambulances, buses etc and especially as a safe form of heating for boats. So a good source is boat yards etc. But be aware as the Chinese copies of the original makers are not as safe then very few legitimate companies will service them. Also a point worth noting is that ordinary white PVC pipe does melt very fast in a genuine 8 kw output even my 5 kw Webasto would destroy it in seconds so it appears true that the copies are not true kw. The genuine heaters are also available in petrol (Benzine) for the colder climates and early VW air-cooled engines as additional cab heaters.There is also a nice RV heater that heats all your water for showers washing etc then circultes through a small radiator (fan assisted) to keep the RV toasty.
Where did you get the metal joiner shown @19:30?
i put 4 feet on mine about 3 inches it stops the exhaust from burning the floor simples
How bout mounting it to a thick aluminium plate for heat Dissipation?
Go for it.
Yeah.....I think I'll stick with my industrial 20 amp blower heater I bought last year and runs on 220 volt 16 amp supply.
Did you soak the wrap first ? Uha
Does anyone know where to purchase that black heat resistant joiner ?
I am in Adelaide and I can’t find it anywhere
the only con that i can see is that the exhaust must have a downward slope from machine to exhaust tip so water condensation can leave
Where can I get one of these please leave a link
Awesome update. Do you happen to know the I/N number for the Copper Elbow and joiner. I spent hours in bunnings looking but now I am in ISO for the next week so I would need to buy online
Hi Jonathon - apologies for the late reply. They aren't online for some reason and I did have a look last time I was in our store and they were out of stock so suggest there is a supply issue currently. It will be a Kinetic product. Reece do have something similar:
www.reece.com.au/product/ardent-capillary-w12-elbow-25mm-x-1-degree-9800074?query=copper%20elbow
I trimmed off ½ the non corrugated end of the stainless pipe and was able to bend it sharp enough to fit well, using a file handle inserted in it to prevent kinking. No copper elbow required.
@@ianwohling1304 glad you didn't use copper ......its a no no on exhaust....the combination of copper and exhaust fumes will definitely kill you ...... this is so bad.....if copper was allowed anywhere on a exhaust system it would be used all the time as its readily available and so easy to work with.....please dont ....
hello i have a new one of these not used to much but its blowing black smoke so i think its running to rich can you help me solve my problem an get it running good again please
Trick with the exhaust wrap. Soak it in water before installing it. It will keep loose fibers for going all over the place, and it will help you get a good and tight wrap on it. Once you run the heater it will burn off the water in the wrap, and shrink it to an even tighter wrap.
Hi Twisted, I agree 100%!! I didn't even consider for this on such a small and simple wrap!! I would normally also wear nitrile gloves at the very least however once recorded there's no undoing. I actually thought it was a sleeve when ordering so must admit it through me off a bit.
The reason for wetting that heat wrap is that its fibreglass, wetting it prevents the loose fibers flying away and being inhaled. Also recommended to wear gloves when handling it because you can get hundreds of tiny fibreglass splinters from it.
Most certainly. I would highly recommend anyone working with this material to wet down and at the very least where gloves. It works well however.
Audi logo on the diesel tank?
one thing i want to know 12v-8000w do you run it on amg battrys and can you let me know what i need
Hi John, I doubt anyone would run on full at 8000w to be honest. We run it fairly low. We have a narva accessory outlet mounted up under the floor running off the battery management system. Once the unit is up and running it generally idles along with limited current draw. They are quite efficient.
Okay all good but one question. When the unit is outside or underneath the camper can you still effectively use the remote from within the camper
jacko 0
.I was wondering about that too. I want mine to be fitted in the front boot of the caravan, but still be able to adjust the temp from inside the van, or what would be the point ?
Yes, that's what he said in the video!!!!
Do you happen to have any ideas how many Watts this thing uses? None of the manufactures seem to list the actual power consumption.
40 I believe on high
I am getting an error code 02 high voltage even when my battery voltage is 12.4 Volts. What can be wrong?
Hey mate,
Can you put a link to the pipe connector please. I also was dubious about using pvc so if I could get a proper connector that would be awesome.
Cheers
Hi Robert. Here is the link, I hope it helps you out. www.ebay.com.au/itm/224398153801
Thanks,
Unfortunately that link doesn't exist any more, but now at least I can try finding something similar.
Cheers
You dont need a carbon monoxide detector as it's only blowing air around a sealed burn chamber ?
You want a CO monitor in the event that the heat exchanger fails resulting in a leak.
Hi Simon, technically no but as per Briantii's response its a fail safe should the unit malfunction. I try to note or mention all that I can. It has been a topic of discussion on many groups over the past 12 months or so and as such included as a consideration.
As we are circulating fresh air from under the van in our setup, if for some reason there is a build up then its good security and peace of mind. I also would never run any heating or the like when sleeping.
Where did you get the new intake part? The eBay link looks same as one that came with mine.
I think cuz I plan on using the heater in rain or snow I’m going to use the intake that came with the heater. Since like you said the other one is more open
Do you have any issues with moisture collecting in the exhaust pipe? Most things that I have read suggest this should be lower than the unit to allow it to run out. A bit like the hole has to face down on the muffler itself to allow moisture out... Great tips though! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Ross as this is a portable unit and the exhaust is removable its not so much an issue. The fixed installations where the units constantly have condensate collecting in them are the primary concern. You could always raise the unit however its usually only run for one or two nights then disassembled.
There is a little hole on the bottom side of muffler
Can you run home heating oil in these things?
Hi Sammy I believe you can. A few certainly do use kerosene based fuel.
Yes. Heating oil is essentially diesel #2 in the US. #1 diesel is a winter fuel that resists gelling in cold weather
How long does a full tank last on the high setting?
Depends on the heater. each should have a duesel rate per hour on low & high settings.
So why not explain the distinction between an 'in-house' and 'portable house' CO detector?
I fail to see why there would be any difference, with regard to the detector itself... If it detects CO ... Then surely that is enough?
I think the difference is what power source powers the Co2 Detector, 9 volt or AA batteries and the height of it as most of them recommend to be 1 meter or 3 feet off the ground. One for a home has 120 volts usually and set at either 12" off the floor...
Can this heater use home heating oil / #2 Fuel Oil?
People have run on kerosene based fuels. We don't commonly have home heating oil here so I'm not certain but suspect it probably would. My understanding is #2 fuel oil is very similar to diesel. Alpine regions of Australia may use fuel oil however I haven't come across it here. We used to sell bulk kerosene at old fuel stations I used to work at however that was generally phased out around 15 years ago here.
Yes, you can use home heating oil. The only major difference between fuel oil and truck diesel is the red dye. I would recommend using an anti-gel to fuel oil though. Road diesel is blended in the winter months for a lower gel point. I’m not certain that fuel oil is.
@@Uriah625 Most of the #2 fuel oil delivered around here (north of Boston) is most likely suitable for cold weather. But if not, I plan to keep the diesel that I plan to use indoors in my 50 deg basement.
Make your own "joiner" by rolling up a sheet of aluminum.
I would just shove the exhaust pipe into a length of scaffolding pole.
Soak your exhaust wrap first,as it will dry tighter.Hand wear gloves…👍🏾
In the uk we have press fit plumbing fittings from Geberit in stainless steel,
They do a stainless steel male /female elbow in 22mm, just take out the rubber and it fits perfectly.
Copper will rot and is very dangerous.
The rubber O ring you removed?.... That's what does the sealing🤔😁
Who about reliability? And spare part
Hi I've got the same heter have you figured out a way to stop the fual cap to stop leaking fuel on bumpy roads
If your drawing your air from outside, (the cold air), it takes much more energy to heat than if you’re drawing it from inside the warm space.
Well, that’s not exactly true. But where is your air intake??
Hi Don completely agree however its never struggled in mid single digit (Celsius) temperatures. We don't recirculate as the intention was to have a simple plug and play portable unit with minimal pipes, given our climate is mild and we would only use half a dozen times a year.
I feel if you were in a very cold climate and using more regularly an in built system would be much more beneficial. The idea with this was to try is out and see how it worked. To be honest I have been surprised by how well it works in this configuration so will certainly keep using in this camper. If we upgrade to a caravan I will probably build one in.
@@WorkLivePlay I get it.
You’s is actually one of the first videos on diesel heaters I had watched. On seeing more, yours is the preferred configuration and appears to work well.
I maybe should have learned a bit more before I commented. Lol.
I really did like your setup, just being Canadian I always tend to think of the harsh winters.
WARNING: IF POWER IS LOST TO HEATER WHEN IN OPERATION. THE FLAME WILL GO OUT AND UNBURNED DIESEL FUMES WILL CHOKE YOU, THEY COME RIGHT OUT OF INTAKE END OF HEATER.
As an engineer I ran ever test I could think of on this thing. Also if you use it inside of heated space verses placing it out side you will always smell a bit of diesel from the vent cap or the fueling process.
I would never run one of these heaters unattended personally and that applies to sleeping. I would always also fit a carbon monoxide detector just to be safe also.
Not sure but... If power was lost wouldn't the pump stop pumping and therefore there would be no diesel vapour.
Total rubbish, it shuts itself down🙄
@@richardrichard5409 I must make a correction. The fumes came out of the air intake tube for the burner. When power is lost (not a proper shut down) the fuel remaining in the combustion chamber that is unburned will vent fumes out intake tube. So if the intake air tube is inside fumes come out. I would recommend the intake tube be outside of the area being heated.
I hope you know that that copper piping you're using especially the elbow going directly into the exhaust, is not meant for that kind of heat. I've scanned it with a heat meter and right where you have the elbow it gets 400°. That copper piping will Warp, and may even melt on you. Please do your homework before you endanger people with these little add-ons. And remember when 230, that's the add-on that allows CZcams not to get sued. When that goes away people like you can get sued for putting bad information out on CZcams.
I think it would be much cheaper and easier to just place it on concrete pads gotten from any home improvement.
For camping they are quite heavy. You could use fibre cement however.
Have you given a thought to why copper is illegal to use used in exhaust pipes.
There is zero chance your hands were not embedded with fiberglass.
So if you don't have a ducting access, you still have to drill the floor for the exhaust. So not very portable really ☹️.
Was hoping to install a heater without having to make any holes in the structure of the van
😅😅😅😅
Can a person use kerosene, in the haters
You're always adding something or subtracting something or fixing or changing and it's a quick easy fix that's your famous line it's not imposturated again yes American lol
You should just put the muffler onto the exhaust coupling without any extension, it will reduce back pressure and any unburnt diesel/condensation can drip out :)