Chinese Diesel Heater | Are they worth the money? Are they safe?
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- With most of the US in old man winters grasp, those that like to camp outdoors could use some heat. There is a growing popularity of what is known as the Chinese Diesel Heater. These inexpensive knock off's can be a game changer for those looking for an economical way to heat a roof top tent or any remote living space.
Read the full review here: wp.me/pbWf0U-1rs
Diesel Heater: amzn.to/3Dns5sx
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![I Used A CHEAP Diesel Heater To Heat My Rooftop Tent [COLD CAMPING]](/img/n.gif)
Got a Chinese diesel heater in my car for several years now. Not single-unit like this, but the internal workings should be the same. The machine proved to be extremely reliable and works without hiccups even after some tough offroading.
I'm using one for my workshop. Webasto isn't worth the money
This is the first video I watched when researching diesel heaters and you’ve answered so many questions I had. Excellent video, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
@@thegearbunker9842 how large is the fuel reservoir and how quickly does it deplete? And how much wattage does it require? Does it have its own internal battery? Also where'd you get that step thing? I'm impressed. It seemed to be very quiet too, I had expected it to be reasonably loud. I have an 07 fj cruiser too, it's my absolute favorite. I can't wait to take it out this winter on some Michigan trails. Good work, keep it up
@@imkaneforever he literally mentioned every question you asked. Just watch the video 🙄
Great way to store that duct is to use a bungee cord, then just hang it inside the rig. Another good idea is to start the rig during the initial start up process so that it doesn’t consume so much power from your house or starter battery. Great video! I love my diesel heater! Such a game changer!
Great idea, thanks for the tip
I got one of those. 5-8 kilowatts of heat production.
I use it in the basement and / or in the conservatory and I'm very happy with it.
Since I live in subtropical Spain, my house has no central heating system. In winter I heat the house mainly with the airconditioning units and a wood oven. When very cold I used to temporarily heat additionally with a movable propane heater, but this device has no chimney and I don't like to breathe the exhausts. Besides it produces water vapors, which could cause problems when it condensates on the walls.
The diesel heater replaces the propane heater, works flawlessly and is heat & cost efficient. It is self modulating, automatic on/of time. programming is a piece of cake.
I operate the dieselheater with a 12volt DC, 20 Amp on the 230 volt ac net in the house.
The 12v DC 20 Amp feed i bought cheap on amazon. Delivery only a few days later.
I can recommend the heater and the 12 volt feed.
Thanks for sharing. We've been very happy with our heater as well. It enables us to get out and adventure in our vehicle any time of year. Thanks for tuning in.
My buddy converted an ambulance, f-450 4wd, into an off-road camper and used a China diesel heater. It's been going strong for four years. He loves it....
Seems to be hit or miss with these units. Some people have had these things running for years. While others have problems right out of the box. I'm happy with mine so far.
Has he had to do maintenence?
Thank you for making this! My mom lives in a tiny home and this may be a great solution for her.
Was it?
I hope you mount and install it properly..."no margins for error"....... probably not something an older lady should be fumbling around with, especially the exhaust, CO2 can be deadly !!!!...................Erik
Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for tuning in
I like your creativity on how you mounted the unit. I know this is 2 years ago. But you might want to do the following - IF you are still using this setup and you haven't found a long term storage solution for the pipe. If you have the space on either the front or rear bumper - you can buy or even make your own RV style sewer pipe storage. I've even seen the housing made out of a white square plastic type cover for 4*4 fence post and for the slide out to keep the pipe in, they use plastic gutter for your house. The pipe can lay in the gutter and the gutter can be slid inside the square housing to store it all away. That way you can switch to solid pipe to match and attach to your 90deg elbow and get it closer to the opening on your tent and then use a much shorter flex pipe from the end of the solid pipe into your tent. That would make it much easier to store away when you are done camping. If you did try this I would also look into getting some of the insolation that is used for round duct work in a house and slide it over the solid pipe to protect your vehicle for it laying up against it. All the Best, Tony
Just thinking of laws of thermodynamics here. You have the vent high up in the tent, heat rises which is why the floor was still cooler. Had you put that vent right at the floor level it would have more evenly heated your tent space.
I agree. It was a conscious decision however. Typically it's my wife and I in the tent and it's pretty cramped quarters. I'd be afraid that one of us would smother or somehow obstruct the heat pipe. Although the floor area was cooler than the top of the tent, it was more than comfortable. I have a 30F and a 15F bag. Plus, the heater was running all night on it's lowest setting and barely put a dent in the fuel supply.
@@thegearbunker9842 You can point the hot vent downwards, perhaps towards your knees/feet, and achieve a more even temperature distribution in your tent.
I have seen these before but I do definitely liked your tire shelf idea.... That makes the most sense and great way to get the heater off the ground....
Glad it was helpful!
definitely do a return air
from your tent into the back of the unit. (cut the metal housing) that way you are not heating up insane cold air. and you can run it on a much lower speed and fuel setting. and also less chance of sucking in your exhaust into the tent (still run carbon monoxide detector)
great advice. I'll try that next time.
Yeah I think it's like 90% of heating power lost by heating the outside. The only thing that can keep up w/ heating the outside air is sunlight. Essentially in that space, you're only using 500 watts of electricity.
You can literally just run a 500 watt space heater inside the tent to compare.
The benefit of running a return is you can actually connect another hose from your rent to run into the cabin of the FJ, and then put the return on the inside of the FJ. Then you can sleep inside the cabin or inside the tent esp if you get into an argument w/ a significant other.
You can still passive aggressively fight back by passing gas into the return though.
Yes, this does indeed work, but the humidity should theoretically increase (outside winter air being typically very dry) and increase condensation within the tent. I will be testing both options.
Not worth
@@styledliving Good one, lol
Great video didn't recieve any instructions with mine other than how to turn it on.thanks for sharing .
For pipeing - RV sewer hose. Made to hold up to abuse, flexible, and collapses pretty well.
Those don't pack down well at all.
Is dryer vent healthy to use for intake air(voc"s, etc...) try storing in PVC or such pipe, throw fishing rods/awning poles inside. Nice looking trucks!
Yeah, keeping the burner outside your living area is key. I am switching over to my Chindiesel this weekend from using the Mr. Heater Lil Buddy.
I bought an expensive Sensorcon Inspector Pro CO alarm/monitor that shows CO ppm's real time, and it would work up to 15ppm at the ceiling of my small squaredrop.
Although that is within reason for not getting poisoned, you are still getting poisoned(!).
Excellent setup you have with the wheel step - I am going to borrow that from you, and add a cover of sorts because I expect some snow thru the winter.
Be interested to know how much less ppm it would be every foot down from the ceiling though
@@KollynJ It drops to about 9-10 at my head level while sleeping. That's with more than the suggested ventilation.
What’s the amp draw on these things? How much battery drain will I have if I use my cars 12v battery?
I'm surprised how loud it is but this would be perfect for tent camping when we off-road later in the season.
I would be inclined to form a plenum, under the floor of the "roof nest", into which the hot air feed pipe can be connected each night. A couple of vents, that can be opened or closed, from the plenum into the base of the nest will allow for flow of air keeping the space more evenly heated. I believe such an arrangement would be more effective and far more comfortable than "a hot top and cold bottom" situation.
It would also be necessary to ensure that the exhaust gas is directed well downwind of the air intake on the opposite side of the unit to where you have the moveable 90 deg air tube for the living space {not refering to the small snorkel on the side that feeds the combustion chamber}.
Appreciate the overview, discussion and suggestions. Thank you.
Cheers, PNH
The bottom of the tent would be a challenge for several reasons. I have about 2.5" between the roof rack and the vehicle roof. I also have a Baja Utility rack with many crossbars that a pipe won't fit through. On the inside, the anti condensation mat and mattress cover the floor in its entirety. Also, any type of floor heat could easily be accidentally covered by a blanket or sleeping bag at some point. The bottom line is, there is a ton of heat coming out of the pipe. I wouldn't waste a single second trying to make anything more efficient. You're probably going to need to crack open a window to let some heat out.
Consider using an insulated flex duct. You may need a header to let it chill a bit but for a long run you'll lose less heat.
Efficiency is not an issue with this thing. The biggest issue is over heating the tent.
Did you consider putting the unit on the spare tire? There would be less heat loss due to the shorter intake pipe and in fact I think that would lend the setup to the use of a short solid piece of aluminum pipe putting the output low in the tent and providing better low heat distribution. Also if you had to shift your vehicle in an emergency the unit would not have to be taken off unlike your arrangement. Yes exhaust noise would be nearer to the tent but you could use a longer pipe that puts the outlet close to the ground. Nice setup and great choice of vehicle for overlanding.
I'm working on placing all the parts inside a Yeti GoBox that can just sit on the ground. As for increasing the efficiency? No need to concern myself with that. It already provides too much heat at the lowest setting and uses a tiny amount of fuel. I heated my RTT and a Gazelle tent for 3 nights and used less than half a gallon of fuel.
@@thegearbunker9842 do you still love this thing? Is it holding up well, still just efficient? Is there a lot of maintenance or replacing parts?
Don't even need a sleeping bag lol!
But i will always recommend a very good sleeping bag in winter, no mechanical is first.
I am living off grid and when mechanics failed for any reason you have to be ready for whatever and low tech helps a lot .
Good video i want one in back up in case.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for a great test run and all the awesome information! I'm convinced this is the model I will be using when I do my van build! I really like the all in one design!
Glad it was helpful!
you should try Hon&Guan 3 inch Air Duct - 16 FT Long, Black Flexible Ducting HVAC Ventilation Air Hose for Grow Tents, Dryer Rooms,Kitchen. I like this because it can flex back which I leave my accessory in my Roam box.
Thanks for the recommendation but I can't find the black 3" anywhere
I have this same unit in the 5KW size and quite happy with it. I heat a 5X8 insulated cargo trailer and in freezing temperatures, it heats to about 65-70F inside on the LOWEST hertz setting. I would not mount or run this inside, because while in transit, diesel can splash and leak out of the cap through a small vent hole. I store mine in a plastic tote until I get ready for set up. Even while using outside cold air, it is quite efficient on diesel and battery consumption. It does appear quite flimsy, but it's always performed every time so far.
Still holding up?
@@KollynJ Still holding up! I just used it during Thanksgiving weekend and no hiccups. I've never cut the power (12 volts) off during operation. To turn it off, you have to let it go through a cool down cycle. The ONLY flaw that I could find is that the efficiency is slightly less than when I first got it. Possibly because of soot buildup in the burn chamber to prevent less heat exchange?? Non the less, still preforms well.
You should try using insulated flex duct for your inlet and outlet it would improve its efficiency tremendously 👍
Great tip. I found that it was very efficient even without an insulated pipe.
Great review. Was considering this for my diesel truck shell camper. I am designing a false tailgate for a portable AC unit and was hoping that this heater could sit on the tailgate and heat exhaust through the hole in the false tailgate used for the AC (when AC not in place) but the engine exhausing through the bottom of the unit may not work in that position. Was trying to avoid having to use the long pipe into the shell camper. Will have to rethink my build.
Can't believe you didn't put the muffler on! The first thing I thought was how loud it was.
They come with a muffler. Feel free to use yours however you feel. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.
How weatherproof are these things? I am contemplating putting one in my fifth-wheel trailer but was going to mount it outside like you did, but was concerned about getting rain or snow on it. Great video by the way! How much fuel did it use?
Could you make the mount on your spare tire so the unit is closer and you won't lose heat through more piping?
You might want to take the cover off and check it over (in my opinion) as I found the pump was put on the wrong way, also a lot of jubilee clips were loose, and you will need a fuel filter to put in, the green fuel pipe you will need to change from the outlet of the pump to the heater.
Mine was solid
Got here looking for a heater review but, man what a cave you have there. Bravo on that garage sir!
Thanks! It gets cold up here and the winters are long. I need some warm space to work.
I think I'd try double wall flue pipe for the outlet up to the tent. That aluminized flex stuff is crap. Any single wall tubing will have a lot of heat loss , double wall has airspace and therefore inherent insulation built right in. Not a lot, but much better than none.
Although I agree with your theory. I don't want to haul a double wall flue pipe as I'm space limited already. It may be slightly more efficient but it's not worth the effort. In my test, it was 18F outside and it only needed to run on its lowest setting to achieve a comfortable 65F sleeping environment.
Ordered mine today, great review and good option for the budget minded. Hope I have the same results.
Hope you enjoy it!
Very thorough and well thought out…love that you measured results..new sub
Thanks for the sub!
Hello.... 5 min and 53 sec in the video u have the dryer vent thingi , one thing u can get it's a plastic pipe which is litebit bigger with a cap on one end. Let say the snake thingi is 70 cm in total after u compress that. Use 75 cm pipe to lead it inside the pipe and put a cap at the tother end to.
Thanks for the comment. I'm actually working on a new configuration mounting this heater in a weatherproof Yeti LoadOut GoBox 30. With room to store the ductwork. Stay tuned.
New subscriber .... Thank you! I was thinking of purchasing one. Would love to see more.
Thanks for the sub!
Great work test results are good I am wanting to get one for winter months in Australia
Good luck!
That black flexible pipe that it comes with (the real version) if ordered through thermoking is 150 dollars. The clamps are 10 dollars.
That's why almost everyone orders 16' of pipe from Amazon or Home Depot for less than $20
the 2KW is better because if you don't run these full blast they get carbon build up and you have to take them apart and clean. Also, I hope you installed a fuel filter on the fuel line before the pump because the whole thing can get gummed up if you didn't.
Good point. I do run it on high before shutting it down hoping to burn off any build up. And yes, I have a fuel filter and spare on hand. Thanks for the comment.
You can buy insulated pipes but they take more space. Great video !
Thank you. I didn’t feel there was enough heat loss to warrant the space needed for an insulated pipe.
@@thegearbunker9842 yes of course space is always a concern. Up here in Canada I would most likely make space for insulated pipe, winters are very diffrent then yours here.
Run that display in the tent, it works like a thermostat. Being outdoors at 18 degrees it will constantly run on high
I have total control of the heater via the wireless remote in the tent. So it will run at whatever setting I request.
@@thegearbunker9842 only if you have it set to control the hertz it'll work. If you have it set to temp he's right it'll run on high cause there is a temp sensor on the LCD display to monitor air temperature.
@@DanielSan-ch7dr I run it off of Hertz
Curious as to how hot the exhaust pipe gets? Thinking of running one inside a 10x20 Cabelas Alaknak tent and running the exhaust out the zipper floor flap for the wood stove.
It gets really hot! I wouldn't run it close to anything that'll melt or catch fire. There are some clever pass-through options for routing the exhaust through a boat hull or camper floor though.
Can you use a downpipe like on the gutter at home or does it need to be flexible
I just got one and I’ve been trying it out just testing it. The one thing I absolutely wish it had, is during shut down mode it ramps way down even below the number one setting and I wish they had that airflow and heating option as a speed option because it’s completely silent and blows very quiet, and you can’t hear the exhaust at all, and even in the number one setting it to become too warm depending on the space. I was hoping to use it for a truck bed camper shell set up, but it’s definitely too hot for that use unless you were in serious subzero temperatures. A little clunky, a little buggy, but they seem to be a great low cost solution compared to Webasto. Heck, you could at this point on more than 10 of these maybe 15 compared to having one Webasto. So either Webasto needs to lower its price to remain competitive or lose to China. Because I personally would rather have three or four back ups, and still save money
Thanks for the video! So, to summarize: it ran for 8hrs off a 12V, with no measurable voltage drop, using 1/8gal of diesel, on the low setting. Correct?
Pretty much accurate
@@thegearbunker9842 wondering if you could put a heater in a 4 door sedan? Thanks.
@@jazzsounds8159 you can. Just make sure exhaust gasses goes stays outside.
@@jazzsounds8159 why not it’s a heat exchanger so no fumes. You might have to get something where you can lower the window and pinch in the hose like how those floor mounted AC units have something you put in your homes window ledge vertically only you would do it horizontally
Crazy efficient! Thank you for summary.
I just fitted 5-8kw in my flying school to take winter chill off. I'm not sure it pushes out 5kw compared to say 2kw electric heater.
They are good as intended, cab heater. So ok in say Rv's, campers.
Have 2kw in camper and that is good.
Hey thanks for the demonstration and the information on the heater 👍🏻 thanks 🙏🏻
No problem 👍
I have always been a bit concerned about carbon monoxide poisoning. I am a pretty sound sleeper and might not hear an alarm. How far away can you exhaust the emissions?
I liked your video. I am trying to figure if I could use this unit in my boat and also my wall tent. I am a heating contractor. It sounded very loud, did it keep you up at night? The unit is meant to be inside, not outside so it can recycle heat from the space back into itself and so, not have to heat outdoor air constantly. I understand that it uses more power lighting (glow coil) and less when heating.
It depends on where you mount it. Mine sits by the tire and I'm in a roof top tent. No noise issues for me personally. You could recycle heat but for me it's necessary. It's overkill for my tent. We heated a rooftop tent and a gazelle tent this past weekend. Still on one of the lowest settings. Otherwise it's a sauna.
That's a Hella nice garage! Jealous.
Informative vid. I'll be doing this! 😁👍
Thanks! With the long winters in northern Michigan, the more heated garage space, the better.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. How did the battery hold up in your CJ?
The battery in my FJ is a Group 31 AGM and has no problems with the small load from the Diesel Heater
Is the wires on the built in thermostat long enough to detach from unit and put in tent so unit will run on auto and cycle on/off?
Great stuff. But be wary that if using certain plastic tubes,they get hot and give off fumes…some which are bad…
Thanks for the advice. The flexible duct I'm currently using is aluminum on the inside.
I just tried my little trailer for camping this weekend. I have a Buddy Heater and it kept shutting off due to oxygen depletion. Can't use it for more than a few minutes. Not gonna work. This looks like what I need.
Way safer as there is no combustion taking place in the tent
I wonder how an electric space heater would fare if you plugged it into your battery pack and kept that inside your tent. It would eliminate using a little buddy propane tank and diesel. My biggest concern would be using alot of energy and draining the battery quickly
It would drain your battery for sure as well as expose you to risk of fire.
Put the duct inside of a piece of pvc pipe it will store it safe and compact glue one end just slip the other on it doesn’t have enough push to uncap it
Thanks, that's been a common suggestion. I'm actually working on installing the heater in a Yeti LoadOut 30 Box which will be weather tight and have storage space for the duct. Stay tuned!
Bummer, I just received my buddy heater for my roof top tent. Great review of the heater. How was the fuel consumption for that unit. Thank you again for sharing. Looking forward to starting the storage building next month. Daniel.
Daniel, After running at a pretty low setting for over 7 hours, the tank was still practically full. It maybe used 1.5 cups of fuel over night. I was impressed.
@@thegearbunker9842 That is awesome. The heater I purchased will cost more to run than yours. Those little green tanks get expensive. Back to shopping on Amazon. I'll use your link, hopefully you get a little back from it. Again, thank you for sharing your drawings. Talk soon.
@@dfox344 I've got both a diesel heater and a buddy heater. In my opinion, the buddy heater is great for 35-50⁰ weather, and the diesel heater is better for lower temps. Also, check out some videos on how to refill those green propane tanks yourself. You'll save a ton of money that way, rather than tossing them and buying new ones.
Outstanding really helped us out!!
Glad to hear it!
Great job. Wondering what draw it took from your battery?
I don't really have any measurable data on the vehicle battery. But when it runs off my Goal Zero Yeti500 overnight, it draws the capacity down to 80% on average
Nice setup. I laughed when my American mate here in Aus said 'F' doesn't mean Fahrenheit it means, "Freedom Units". Is it hard to flip to Celsius to show the rest of us what you are referring to?
Also, how is the noise of the unit? Could I put this outside and not annoy my camping neighbours? Cheers.
Freedom Units...I like it. Sorry I haven't used Celsius in the past but the vast majority of our viewers are in the US. The noise from the heater is mostly a ticking noise as the fuel pump pulses. It's not silent by any means but I wouldn't consider it noisy either. Noise is so subjective though.
Got an iKamper and use a buddy hester. Main reason I want to switch, besides condensation, is being able to run heat at a more pleasant rate. What would you say is the lowest you can get your tent temperature on low setting? Say around 30F outside. I ask because the buddy heater will have the iKamper like a sauna withing 5 minutes, so it becomes unbearable
In the video, I had it on one of the lowest settings at 18F outside. And woke up to the inside average temp of 60-65F
I have this exact model well worth the price the only thing I wish it would display Fahrenheit it only reads Celsius I only payed $122 on Ebay
That's a great deal!
Oc is freezing temp..100c is boiling.....pretty straight forward
Hey brother, be careful with what kind of ducting you use on your heater. Galvanized and just about anything else you use that's not designed for a heater will likely off gas poisonous fumes at certain temperatures (lower that you might think). There are specially designed ducts for marine heaters that will work and keep you safe. Also, I'd use an inexpensive carbon monoxide detector in your tent while running that Chinese machine. Thanks for the video and stay safe!
Thanks for the info. I’ll have to look into that.
I thought the same thing. The duct material has to be safe to breath as plastics and pvc will give off gases. The boat idea from the other guy sounds good.
Great comment. Could you please provide a website that has this safer ducting, please
Pretty much all furnace ducting is galvanized steel. The temperatures don't get high enough to cause problems.
Looks like stainless to me.
i OWN 2 1 fOR 4 YEARS.. love them! plastic duct is not rated for that heat though.. Also.. WATER is fatal.. keep your fuel dry and water free. I use kerosene mostly because the extra BTU's are handy to have.. and it fires up easier in sub zero temps.. I use one unit to keep an triler above freezing all winter.. THERMOSTAT set at 42 degrees and it has been flawless!
Sweet set up ! How long will your power box last before you have to charge it ?
The Goal Zero Yeti 500X typically uses about 20% of the battery when the heater runs all night. But it depends on many factors. Ambient temperature and how high the heater is running are the two main factors.
@@thegearbunker9842 right on!😎
Great video ! Did you check how many amps it takes from the DC-input for the fan and the glow plug? I'm planning on using one to heat my garage, but I don't know if my supply is strong enough.
I saw a similar heater labeled as consuming 40w so around 12.6v x 3.17A
If you don't mind me asking where abouts are you located in Michigan? I also have an FJ and am located near Iron Mountain and pull an off road Runaway Venturist camper. Am considering a knock off diesel heater for this set up.
Great video !
Link to that galvanized elbow? I see one on Amazon it’s $47.98
3" galvanized elbow at Home Depot. $8
@@thegearbunker9842 found one. Check out My latest video 👌🏻
looks neat, wondering if it will work as supplementary heat for my 35' fifth wheel trailer ...have to run the exhaust out somewhere though
Yes a lot of sled people use them. I’ll be doing mine over the next month
It should
great review man, thx a bunch!
You’re very welcome. We always have more info on our website. Thanks for tuning in
Very nice FJ. I have one as well and will be trying to do the same thing. Does the hot air hose get too hot for the tent? I'm concerned about melting. How's the power draw? Ok to run off the car battery over night?
Not at all. My duct passes through the tent about 6-7' down stream from the heater. It's warm to the touch at that point and poses no risk to the tent. That being said, the duct is pretty hot in the first 1-2' from the heater. But I don't recommend placing the heater that close to your tent due to the exhaust fumes. I ran my heater off of a portable Goal Zero Yeti 500 Lithium battery and found that the heater consumes very little power. Depends on how long you run the heater and at what fan/pump speed. I'd experiment using your vehicle battery but you should be goos to go if you're not static for several days/nights in a row.
@@thegearbunker9842 thanks. All good stuff! This will expand camping season.
Mine was canadian, compleatly different design. Fuel had to be "on road diesel " no red stuff that gummed up the burner. Top grad "A" clean stuff only. Many hrs of cleaning tought me.
Thanks for the info
Red diesel is exactly the same as road diesel, just with red dye added so inspectors can see it if they dip your fuel tank. Dye wont gum anything up.
Best part is that no interior moisture is created. Roughly 20z of water/lb of propane is rule of thumb. Can get small areas damp quickly or frost up the ice shack in a hurry. Dry heat is warmer heat.
Kennett unit sit outside in the pouring down rain and still work
Nothing seems to be sealed from the elements on the electrical side. A drizzle won't be a problem but I'd protect it from a downpour. There are solutions that mount these into a weather proof pelican case but they're pretty costly.
Nice - that looks like a solid setup
I think so too! Loving the warm dry and safe heat in the roof top tent.
How did the muffler work? Also, what make and model battery did you use?
Great video
The muffler cut down the noise a bit. Where I have the heater mounted in relation to my roof top tent, noise really isn't an issue.
Excellent video, very helpful. Just to be clear, unit noise was not a problem for you throughout the night? Also it looked like you did not have a tent liner inside your tent, so it stayed that warm with just the tent fabric?
It’s a small tent and no, I don’t have a liner. It blasts hot air in there so I had it set to a very low pump frequency and it was very warm in there. Noise kinda depends on where you place the heater in relation to your tent. Use the muffler and orient the exhaust away from you and you should be good
What's the make and model? The Amazon link doesn't work for me. Thanks.
Bonjour merci pour les conseils et Ta vidéo peut tu me dire si se type de chauffage sont étanche pour restée la nuit dehors
I have a roofnest falcon as well and was wondering where you got the insulated pad for the inside ceiling of your tent.
This is an early model and that's the way it came. And it's really not an insulation layer. More looks than anything.
Great video Sir! What does the manufacturer say about the possibility of the diesel fuel freezing? Is there any concern with that? Love the idea of this would be great for winter camping!
The manufacturer states operating temp from -50N - 45N???? Whatever that means. It depends where you store the heater when not in use. I plan to pack mine inside the vehicle. If storing in the bed of a truck for an extended amount of time, the small fuel line may be the first to freeze. I will tell you this, the heat exchanger puts off a lot of heat and keeps the entire unit very warm. once it's running, there is no chance of any fuel freezing. I hope this helps.
How do you manage the draw from your rigs battery? Does the battery last through the night?
@@chipmhandle yes that’s my concern to, wake up to a dead battery ? 🤔
checked your channel for an update on the heater didn't see one. If you have been using it, how bout an update?
Big win vs propane is that propane gets a LOT of moisture in the air
Totally agree
These are so much better option than a buddy heater that depletes the oxygen inside the tent.
Couldn't agree more
Tip for anyone using a Temp gun...they are for reading "SURFACE TEMPERATURE" not Space or Air Temperature. Air Temp is Vasily different than surface temp.
I think we all understand that. But it still gives you an idea of how hot the air must be to heat an object to those temperatures
Nice golf R 😍
Thanks! It's a really fun car. APR Stage 2 and 400HP
How did the unit do sitting outside in the elements? I've used your exact setup in 40 degrees and it did fine, but I'm curious on how well it does outside in colder weather. Thanks for the video btw, kept my son and I toasty on the lowest setting.
Thanks for your question. Curious if you watched the video though. In the video, the unit was placed outside overnight in 18F temperatures and kept the tent quite toasty on its lowest setting. Barely using any fuel. Glad you've had a good experience with yours.
@@thegearbunker9842 i think he means covering the unit itself from the elements. I have one of those in a custom made box that vents to my office, more than enough.
But don't let rain get on it and rust out components, make a lean to if anything.
I live in Minnesota and have used mine in -10 degree f. I have it running into my 01 jeep xj. I put it on a trailer hitch rack and run the duct work in my back seat window. To "weather " protect it, I took a large tote (which I store the heater and duct in) cut a 4 inch hole in the side and cover the heater. Run duct out hole, exhaust vents out the bottom, and fresh air can be drawn in from the tote opening as well.
I've watched plenty of videos on these heaters. What I've not seen addressed is fuel leaking from the cap when in transit. If you burn half tank of fuel one night, stow the heater in your SUV and move to a different location with half tank of fuel sloshing around... your SUV is gonna stink like diesel.
Is it possible to adjust the heat lower than the lowest remote setting, I am finding its too hot on the lowest setting in my small caravan
This tent heating idea is original idea awesome.now I can have a two bedroom minivan. Anybody want to rent a room LMBO
Thanks for tuning in
I might buy one to heat my garage this winter. I’m thinking use a Milwaukee M18 battery (converted to 12V) for power. That way I can one day use it on an RV or camping set up that I hope to afford someday.
Big girls, over 200 lbs. Great natural heaters.
They make flex hose for furnace duct thats double wall and insulated.
Good advice in a permanent installation. For a tent, it's completely unnecessary. Overheating the space is more likely.
Great video, thanks and subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video. I would like to use one on a boat, mounted on the swim platform. Do you think that running the exhaust tube down in the water would make it quieter? Would the exhaust be strong enough to push the water? This is how a boat exhaust is routed, through the outdrive.
I wouldn't recommend that at all. It's not that loud.
Yeah these things are susceptible to carboning up if they have too much back pressure or intake resistance apparently
No because it’s only a fan pushing the air through the unit.not a pump as in the exhaust on a boat
170? You got ripped off! I bough mine at 75 and came with broken controller. I got the refund for the broken controller and made my own fully manual controller. Worth it? Definitely! This is truly fully open, fully repairable people's champion for heating!
"170? You got ripped off! I bough mine at 75 and came with broken controller." Well, I guess you won. Ha!
Curious which brand this was. The link to Amazon doesnt work. Thanks for the video!
Vevor
Thank you for this video, informative and to the point. I see how your modifications make perfect sense to help it perform better. I'm already convinced to try one out as supplemental heat at my little Wisconsin Northwoods getaway.
Question: How much fuel did you use during the night?
Hey man, great video.
Im looking at trying to mount one of these inside of my argo. Obviously C0 is a concern. Would you see an issue with venting it out of the vehicle and being able to use it safely. Would have a C0 alarm as well as a backup. Thanks!
These are widely used to heat semi truck cabs. Take a look online to see several installs on vehicles. Just make sure your venting is correct and safe.