2013 F150 BCM Failures Pt. 2 Continued Testing...
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- čas přidán 2. 03. 2021
- Continued testing of the BCM circuits on this 2013 F150 which has failed four times in the same manner. See part 1 here: • 2013 F150 Multiple Ele...
I'm starting to dislike this truck... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for posting this troubleshooting. I'm currently chasing down b123a & b123b. Neither front turn signal works and I'm about at the point to replacing the BCM and reprogramming with forscan.
Those codes are for the front turn and mirror indicators. There should be a two digit suffix code attached like 11 or 15. Are the signal indicators always on or not working? What have you done to try to remedy this problem. Did you modify the turn signals or mirrors.
I have a 2013 Ford F150 5.0 XLT CrewCab 4x4. Same issues began occurring when the truck hit 150K miles. Pulled codes 3 codes:
U1000 Communican Bus Fault
B132B Left Stop Circuit short to Ground
B132C Right Stop Circuit short to Ground.
Both Tail an Brake lights were not working.
I do have after market LEDs but with resistors installed and the connections were made using weather tight connectors.
I cleared the codes, and started going after the grounds.
I cleaned the battery grounds, pillar grounds [both sides] and cleaned the ground above the spare tire for some Fuel Module.
Used electronic cleaner, wire brush, roughed up surface, and applied dialectric grease for protection.
Waited not more than day and boom I got more codes.
Same short circuit grounds but this time no U1000 Communication Bus Fault.
There is also now a new Power Steering Control Module U3003 Circuit Voltage below Threshold.
Again LED's can and will cause this. So I switched back to incadescent light bulbs.
Cleared Codes:
Try again.
Boom Codes again for faulty grounds on both turn signals.
At this point I am going to do your Diode fix on those wires and see what I get.
Ill post results. will take a week with work life. Love your videos, they have helped me.
I will send you a 12-pack
Don't waste your time with the diode it won't fix your issue. Your BCM is seeing too much current on the brake light circuits. Try unplugging the rear harness behind the rear bumper, clear the codes, apply the brake and then rescan the bcm codes. If they don't come back your rear harness is shorted somewhere. I'd be looking at where you connected the LED resistors to start with. I would not worry too much about the low voltage code as likely the battery is low if your not using a clean battery charger during testing.
Phillip, AWESOME/ INTRESTING problem and bravo for staying with it with ur LOGIC thinking and some patient hope this is a good fix enjoyable as always to learn from the master hope will see the follow up soon thankyou. cheeeeeers Brother
Very interesting issue and logic! Looking forward to your next video and wishing you all the best in finding a solution!
You should consult with the Ford house and show them your findings. Both for tech education and maybe better manufacturing practices.
I have a 2013 F-150 every time I turn the headlights on the dashboard lights dim
Push your dome light button once to the right
Their is also ground on the fire wall and also under the body fram near the passenger door and also under the fire wall is the passenger wheel mounted to the body fram
If when put in park and the park don’t light up on the cluster.Maybe u should check the gear shift assembly broken on the inside
I really think swapping out standard bulbs for LED's is causing the majority of these BCM issues. Wish someone would of told me before i did it.
Great video. One question, trying to do similar on a basket case that did not have BCM. I have used BCM from junk yard. Any lead on how to reprogram without the old BCM to copy?
You have to use Ford Service Programming and as built data from Ford. Make sure you have the correct BCM. You need the vin from the donor truck to check the part number is correct and matches your part number for your vin. The numbers on the bcm don't work...
Update? **nvm, I read one of your replies to a comment. I'm glad that fixed it.
Should I unhook the batteries when I take them ground wires off to clean them
Yes for sure. Better to be safe
@@PhillipBailey thanks for helping me out Phil I appreciate it
have you looked @ mode motor heater/a/c motors - blower motor amp draw while in operation also check door lock motor draw. and one other thing we have had numerous radio problems
Thanks but what kind of radio problems if I can ask?
Hey did the problem stay away with the bcm replacement and diode? I have a 2013 f150 with the same issues on bcm number 2 and the problem has come back in 2 months. Low voltage on the hazzard circuit again.
Yes the problem seems to be fixed as it hasn't acted up since the last BCM. Unfortunately I can't be sure what fixed it. I cleaned 3 grounds under the dash, one on each A pillar and one on the steering column. Also cleaned 2 grounds on the right inner fender near the battery plus had the entire dash, seats and flooring out of the truck. Sorry wish I knew what the root cause is/was. It appears to be a fairly common issue where the internal 8volt source is lost to all the pull down circuits.
just caught this video, very good, you seem you have a really in depth understanding and great catch comparing the col. shift vs. floor shift.
I have similar problems on my 2016 king ranch with a floor shift. did the addition of the diode actually fix your issue?
I can't really say for sure but as I mentioned in the video the floor shift does have a clamping diode in the circuit. I would recommend to clean all the grounds in the dash on both A pillars behind the plastic trim left and right side and the body grounds on the right inner fender by the battery. so far this thing has not failed again since but I don't really know what fixed it. Did your BCM fail with the same symptoms? Hazards on for no reason, low brake fluid message on the dash, power locks not responding from their door switches but work from remote?
@@PhillipBailey I actually did find that water ran down the harness to the middle top connector on the bcm and now all the pins are corroded. just dropped it off at the dealer today since they just installed a new bcm a few months ago. i am hoping they can find the leak.
Great video how did you fix the fan controller? I am having same issue.
The fan and heater controls were acting this way due to the wrong BCM in the vehicle. I put the correct one in and programmed it to the truck. Did you change your BCM?
I have a 2014 f150. The master window switch for the pass window only goes down even when I pull the switch up. But window works fine with the pass switch. Put in a new master and same thing. Any ideas?
Check for broken and shorted wires between the driver door and A pillar. It could also be on the passenger side but I'd check drivers side first. Good luck and let me know what you find.
I got a problem with my turn signals and some codes u0256(00) u1000(00) u3000(49) b124d(02) b10f1(14)b123b(11) b123a(11) b132c(11) dose that sond like a control module or just bad grounds
The U codes are communication codes between modules. Which modules are you reading these codes in? I thinking the BCM? Bad grounds can cause all kinds of issues. Start by cleaning them and make sure your battery is good and alternator is charging correctly. Do a complete network code clear, start drive and operate accessories then do another network code read to see what comes back.
Hi Phillip, thanks for your help, your video it's very clearly for solve problems with bcm. i have a problem with the power button in the driver side (Passerger side works ok) and i cant find the problem, do you think my problem its the bcm? i check all wires on the door and they are ok; i replace the power button and its ok.
best regards
What exactly is the problem. What works and what does not?
@@PhillipBailey the power door button in driver side not working, al the other are OK. Passenger side all buttons works.
@juanpaulobustospacheco4204 so if the driver side front door lock button does not cause the doors to all lock or unlock but everything works from the other side I'd suggest that there are broken wires between the door and A pillar. At the door switch you should measure 10 to 12v on the blue/green and yel/violet wires pins 4 and 3. If you do try grounding each with a conventional test light to ground. The locks should lock when the blue/green wire is grounded and unlock when the yellow/violet wire is grounded. If there is no voltage on either you have two open wires. If voltage and they respond to the test light check the ground on the black/violet wire at the switch pin 2. The backlighting in the switch will not work if you have no ground to the switch. Good luck
@@PhillipBailey the backlighting in the button its working, maybe its the signals wires you coment. If i replace the door harness can be a definility solution?, Also, how probabilly it some wire are broken betwen A pillar and BCM?
Thanks for you help
@juanpaulobustospacheco4204 usually it's broken wires between A pillar into door. Open the harness and look.
I have a 2011 f150 i been having issues with the rear left blinker and brake light not working i erased codes from bcm workd a few times now won't go away and getting codes for control module and fuel pump ignition just random codes on the bcm im thinking the bcm is done for
What are the BCM codes it's setting?
@@PhillipBailey U3000-49
B1310-14
P0230-14
One for the rear driver stop/turn light circuit short to ground
And some other ones gata check but never got a engine but they all come up under the bcm when I do an all module scan
I have a 2019 f150 have to same issues an more after I was in a accident.is there a way of sending you a video of what's its doing thanks
Upload it to your CZcams account and copy the link in this thread...
Any F150 ABS trouble shooting tips you can share? Any OBD2 scan tools you have experience with to help me clarify if it’s the actual module that has failed and lastly curious if you offer module repair if mailed to you? Thanks again for making the videos, very informative and explain things well for newbys like me.
Hello JP. There are a few Bluetooth tools that will scan the ABS system and other systems in the vehicle. The best that I have found to date is the MaxiAP 200 or 200M. Here is a video I did over a year ago: czcams.com/video/qBquxIoYMVo/video.html
Amazon has a listing here: www.amazon.com/Autel-AP200-Bluetooth-Professional-Automotive/dp/B07QD4GZW4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=maxi+ap200&qid=1618409515&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3MNQOSQ336D3K&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRTZVMkM5WlVRV0RFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjIxMjM5R0pTSU05UU1ZMjhYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODM0NTUxTlYzSlRaRlU4UFNEJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I don't do actual module repairs but can help you diagnose the Ford once you are able to extract the code/s. What are the symptoms?
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for replying Phillip, I will certainly go that direction. Much obliged!
Awesome awesome videos, I have a 2012 raptor with the same issue- door locks, low brake fluid, e brake, 4 ways were on/ now don’t work. I have a Center shift console, would you recommend to change the shift lock solenoid ( I believe it’s part of the whole shifter ass.) I cleaned all the grounds already, and checked as many connectors as I could.
Have you replaced the BCM already? I'll never know for sure if the diode I installed fixed this truck or it was cleaning the grounds that fixed it. Be sure to clean the two grounds by the battery. The console shifter lockout solenoid is supposed to have a clamping diode.in it.if you don't have a graphing meter it would be impossible to see the spike if it's present. Might not be a bad idea to change the solenoid to be safe. Keep me posted if you can. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey I have 2013 Raptor that had a fire under the dash where all the wiring is. I have replaced everything and now I am to the point where the new BCM needs to be programmed but I do not have an old one to pull info from because it melted. What do I do?
@@coupalr1 need to use Ford Module Programming and As Built data downloaded from Ford. If its a new BCM you will also need two different ignition keys and four functional TPMS sensor to complete the Programming event. Need a J2534 pass through, laptop, subscription to FMP.
Thank you for your beautiful videos
I have a question
I have the same problem The dealer told me to replace the BCM
And I would like to tell you what I am thinking, causing problem
I have water leaking on the third brake lights
Also, I put LED lights highbeam, low beam, foggy light and I put off-road light connected to the battery
Do you think this is the causing problems that thing that killed the bcm ?
Or it’s another thing
I just want to be careful before, but the new bcm
Thank you so much for your time
Hopefully I get answer
Good day and thanks for watching my videos. By third brake light I'm thinking you are referring to the high mounted brake light on the back of the cab. A leak in that area should not get the BCM wet as its in the right A pillar area. Also LED lights may set fault codes but should not damage the BCM. What exactly are your symptoms? If you replace the BCM be sure to clean all the body grounds. There are one on each side A pillar under the dash and two under the hood beside the battery on the right inner fender.
@@PhillipBailey The symptoms are that the alarm goes off randomly, and when the truck is turned off, the hazer lights keeps on , the lights keep on and you cannot turn them off, and the control button for locking the interior doors does not work.
@hussin_alkahli9567 that sounds very similar. Is your truck a column or floor shifter?
@@PhillipBailey floor shifter
@@PhillipBailey I went to the dealer and they told me that
(U3000 FAULT CODE PRESENT LEADING TO FAULTY BCM CHECKED WIRING AND CONNECTORS AS PER PINPOINT TEST - NO WIRING CONCERNS FOUND CAUSING FAULT CHECKED WIRING AT BCM CONNECTOR AND WHEN PLUGGED BACK IN HORN GOES OFF INCESSANTLY RECOMMEND BODY CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT, PROVIDED QUOTE ***NOTE*** REMOVED FUSE FOR HORN AT THIS TIME)
Hi Phillip I’ve changed the bcm lately and got every thing works fine accept the A/C control
Any luck of tfinding the issue?
If you have the vin that the bcm came from have a dealer confirm that the part numbers match. What does the AC system do. What codes are setting in the BCM
Hi Phillip
Thanks for your reply
When I turn the vehicle on the A/C turns on by itself even if knobs are off
And the HVAC code that I get is
U0140- lost communication with bcm
@@rainbow8301 And I'm taking that you didn't have issues with the AC with the original BCM? If so the part may be wrong for the VIN.
Holy shit ! You have no idea how dumb you make me feel . uugghhh. Good video .
Yes definitely didn't turn a profit on this job.
@@PhillipBailey I know how it is . These customers have no idea how much time some of these problems take to understand and track down . Sometimes i spend hours just in research alone . That I don’t charge for .
Hi Phillip, I’ve been having some similar issues on my 2012 F-150 but can’t get a replacement BCM. Im going to attempt to reflow my circuit board. I was wondering if you had any tips on how to actually get the board out of the plastic housing. I have been trying for a day and can’t seem to get it. Thanks and great videos!
I took one of them apart. There are two circuit boards sandwiched together. The circuits are on both sides of both boards. Good luck. What are your symptoms? What's going on?
@@PhillipBailey okay great, I’m going to attempt to pull it all apart later. I’ve been having all kinds of issues, radio won’t work, power windows won’t work, power locks acting up, car alarm goes off, battery drain, instrument cluster failure. Took off all of my grounds and either replaced or cleaned them up and reseated them. Then I cleaned some corrosion off of my BCM and replaced all the fuses. No luck there. Ford dealer replaced instrument panel then told me BCM needed to be replaced but they don’t have any and aren’t sure it’ll be fixed. Might end up sending mine out to circuit board medics if they can help me if I cant figure it out.
@@seancoburn9804 any signs of water intrusion in the BCM? Could have windshield leak or blocked sun roof drain if it has one. I've got one apart if you would like some pictures... here's a video. czcams.com/video/13jBGn6mI5Q/video.html
@@PhillipBailey the BCM itself was really clean. A tiny bit of corrosion on the bottom fuses but other than that not much. The connections looked clean as well. I do actually get a bit of water through my heater vent every once in awhile as you had with this truck but other than that nothing. I went up and sealed any potential leaking spots with silicone as best as I could. But I’ve never actually observed the leak besides seeing some right at the heating vent outlet.
Well, I got the BCM replaced, flashed, and reprogrammed. Now I have a TPMS fault and the radio still doesn’t work haha. Not sure where im going to go from here.
Have you tested every pin to every other pin on the BCM harness connector, to check if you have a short or partial short ?
Most of them but there are 7 connectors with some containing 40 terminals. That's a lot of pins and combinations...
@@PhillipBailey Certainly is , sometimes you have to go through the pain !!, something significant is blowing this regrettably, good luck, keep up the excellent vids.
I have a 2015 f150 xlt with the same issue except for the hazard lights and the steering wheel buttons and signal lights don't work
I doubt it the same issue. You need to scan the BCM for codes, check fuses etc to start with.
what exactly is not working or happening?
@@PhillipBailey it gives a bunch of codes like if the only thing that works is the ecm the bcm loses contact with the rest of the truck
It also has a wrench light on
@@hetcho81 as I said before, you need to do a full system DTC scan of all controllers also noting if any module is not communicating when it should be, record all codes in all controllers. That's just the starting point. You could have network issues, grounding issues or even an alternator problem. It will typically take lab scope testing to isolate or pinpoint the source of the problem. There is no silver bullet. Good luck
I have 2013 f150 with a failed bcm. First I wanna know why it happened. I have had multiple dead batteries and read that low voltage could kill it, I had some aftermarket lights that shorted out also. Anyway the second thing is what part number. I can see in for scan the assigned part number or whatever but do I need one with the same number as that or what? I also don’t have access to ford ids but read somewhere pats can be programmed with for scan. Thanks In advance.
How did the BCM fail? What were the symptoms? I am not familiar with For Scan so I can't speak to it's capabilities or weather it can read the part number. I do know that you can't go by the external tagged number. I had to compare the dealer part number by vin from potential donor vehicles. As to why they fail? Possibly bad grounds...there are two main grounds under the dash on the left and right A pillars and a couple on the right inner fender near the battery. A bad alternator can do it too. Incorrect boosting, charging and water intrusion.
@@PhillipBailey First symptom was when I started having continuous memory dtc’s. For scan is pretty much an advance scan tool software for a pc that you can use to change parameters and do live data streaming, clear codes, reset modules, module tests, etc. it’s really pretty neat for the price point. You can also change the modules as built data, which I did to disable hyper flash when I had led bulbs in. Well I had a short somewhere, and kept manually clearing the code until it wouldn’t clear anymore. Then I got multiple codes in the bcm from internal electronic failure to key in switch circuit short to ground, and more. They are permanent codes now. Lost power seat function last week, remote start quit, battery drain. Thanks again for the help
@@PhillipBailey And yes I can view the assigned part number or whatever for each module in forscan if that will help me at all.
@@PhillipBailey or if I buy a brand new bcm is the programming process similar?
@calvinmarsh474 yes very similar with one exception. You will need 4 functional TPMS sensors on your truck and two ignition keys. Cannot be cloned keys. If your TPMS sensors are dead or missing you can't finish the programming process. If needed you could park another Ford truck next to yours or buy 4 sensors to program the BCM but then return them. They don't have to be installed to learn them.
So I have this 2011 f150 4x4 xlt at work, it runs and drives, but all warning lights are on gauge cluster loops on off, HVAC and all instrument controls work what I can tell, OBD port gets power but it's not communicating with the car so I can't read codes, I've tried 2 bcms and on both bcms it has the same problem, BCM gets power but it does drop to about 6V and comes back to ~11V so I assume it causes the repeat but I'm kinda stuck and can't think of what could be wrong, all fuses and relays are good and I also cleaned all the ground spots and battery is new and I tested the alternator to be okay, any ideas?
Sounds like a network problem. What kind of scanner are you using? Can you manually ID the vehicle and see if the scanner will communicate with other modules. If it runs the ECM is not dead obviously and must be communicating with the BCM for security reasons. Try a different scan tool.
@@PhillipBailey OCS I think what it is called, that's what our shop uses, supposed to be pretty good.
I tried another AMIP module but still nothing
@@PunkkaRacingTeam I've never heard of that brand. Is it a full function scan tool capable of performing a network scan? As I said try accessing other modules and a different scan tool.
@@PhillipBailey it's called OTC genisys touch diagnostic scanner, had to double check the name, and it won't find the car, it does give green light that it regonizes the power and I also measured it with multimeter straight from the OBD port, when ignition is on, all warning lights are on, but if I crank the car or plug in the scan tool, then gauge cluster starts to loop on/off in every 5seconds or so and it also tries to engage 4wd on too, you can actually feel it too when you drive it, I have a CZcams short posted of it in my channel if it helps
@@PunkkaRacingTeam try to manually enter the vehicle and then try access the other computers.
Can you let us know if this fixes it...
Well I don't want to jinx it but it's been 4 days and 250Klm and so far no issue. I did fix a broken speaker wire in the LR door harness but I'm sure that is not related. Been driving with a donor BCM in the vehicle which is not exactly correct for the truck as the heater controls don't function properly. Waiting for another used BCM to arrive. Will keep you posted...
Phillip Bailey awesome best of luck
I like your videos I have friends that have been your student... Im up in Geraldton.. I useto work at dominion motors and Dan Kuokka referred to you as a walking computer ...
@@jordanboulay3780 I thought I recognized the name. Dan is one of the smartest techs in Thunder Bay in my opinion. Thanks for watching my videos.
Phillip Bailey Dan is a smart tech forsure! where do you recoginize my name from?
I have a 2013 F-150 every time I turn the headlights on the dashboard lights dim
Thank you for your beautiful videos
I have a question
I have the same problem The dealer told me to replace the BCM
And I would like to tell you what I am thinking, causing problem
I have water leaking on the third brake lights
Also, I put LED lights highbeam, low beam, foggy light and I put off-road light connected to the battery
Do you think this is the causing problems that thing that killed the bem?
Or it's another thing
I just want to be careful before, but the new bom
Thank you so much for your time Hopefully I get answer
I made the same mistake,replaced all my standard bulbs with LED,now I'm having BCM issues. Replaced them all back to standard,didn't fix it,the damage was already done.
I have a 2013 F-150 every time I turn the headlights on the dashboard lights dim
That's normal, especially if the dash light brightness is turned down as the dash switches to nighttime mode.
@@PhillipBailey I don't want to sound stupid but I don't know how to do that
@RonnieYoung-zx8wu there should be a small dial next to headlight switch that controls the brightness of the dash lights when the headlights are on.