Painting an outboard lower unit
Vložit
- čas přidán 16. 04. 2018
- In this video I weld, straighten bog and paint the lower unit from my Johnson 30HP outboard.
If you are enjoying this channel, please consider making a donation to www.paypal.me/dangarstu or become a Patreon of Dangar Marine at / dangarmarine
T-shirts available at dangarmarine.com.au/collectio... Post photos of you wearing your shirt to @dangarstu on Instagram!
Dangar Marine is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com. MarineEngine.com supplies a wide variety of spare parts for many brands of outboard motors, be sure to check out their online store.
All music available at soundscloud.com/dangarstu
Really liking this series on the Johnson 30 rebuild. Bravo Stu. Welding in shorts and a T-shirt, SAVAGE!
Thanks Sam. It's way too hot still to wear anything else! ;)
You are clearly one of the person knowing the most things in the marine world on CZcams.
I rebuilt prop bushing and some other things with all your videos.
You are a boss.
Thanks
Good tips. I appreciate you trying new things and going over the process with us.
Thanks mate!
Nice job.Lovely transformation of the 'Joe Mangled' lower unit.
Thanks mate!
Looking forward to the end of the boat build when you put it in the bottle. Always wondered how that is done.
I'm not sure, but I think it involves lots of string. Oh, and a very big bottle! ;)
Awesome! Looking to do mine before the season starts. Thanks Stu!
Thanks Travis, good luck with yours! :)
Disposable foam ear plugs are great for "masking" small holes.
Good tip!
Mate. I didn’t think I’d need to learn from this one. But today if sound I did and remembered to go back to it. You have made a great asset for us. Thanks Stu
Great vid Stu don't stress the little things love your attitude,great man cave
Thank you, your videos are very helpful.
By the way great advice and super job on the lower unit. I really like the epoxy idea. Thanks
Hello from Canada! Thanks a ton for vids like this, Stu. I've tried searching around home for interest level courses on 2 stroke outboards and sadly, there isn't any. Not surprising in land locked Alberta but still a bit disappointing as there are tons of 2 stroke outboards being used in the province. So it's the University of Dangar Marine for me. You've vastly increased my knowledge of the ins and outs of motors like this. Can't thank you enough.
You're welcome Clayton, glad the videos are helping. :)
You never cease to amaze me. Good stuff man keep it up. Hope to see more videos.
Thanks mate! :)
Great video Stu!, Lower unit looks good and it will perform well. Don't sweat the small stuff!
Thanks John, I couldn't agree more! :)
Fantastic job Stu. It looks great. Your tig welding skills are on point!
Thanks Jack! :)
Thank you so much for being effing real thank you for all the videos you share
Thanks for all your help from your videos! I restored 2 outboards with your help.
Stu,
Good job on restoring the lower unit. I do a lot of these. A couple of tips:
1. You used the right material to fill with. I highly recommend that you use a nylon body putty spreader next time. They flex to the contours of the lower much better than the metal ones. So much better, in fact, that you won't need the flap sander at all. Just skim it tightly once, then, if needed, a second time 15 mins later, if it's like JB weld. Sand it by hand with 220 grit, then skim any remaining imperfections. Use 220, then 400 grit to get it really perfect. I typically use JB weld, as someone else stated, a very similar product. A lower like yours shouldn't take more than an hour total to make really nice, especially after your nice TIG work!
2. I highly recommend you use a zinc aluminum primer as a base coat. Evinrude makes a very good one, (green) but so does Rustoleum. (theirs is white) Cover every inch of the lower with this, two coats, then she is ready for paint. If you don't have any drips, you won't even need to sand it, if you paint it within an hour of priming.
3. You will find that that Evinrude factory paint is one of the toughest paints you will ever come across once it cures. I mean it! I have never seen any other paint as tough as that stuff, including 2-part urethanes or epoxies. Once it cures fully, (after maybe a week or two) even gasoline or mineral spirits won't phase it.
4. For the factory paint to perform properly, you have to put it on a certain way, and it much reach a certain thickness. The method I use is as follows:
First, you give it a light "dust coat" and let it flash off for only a couple of minutes. Then you give it a "wet coat", thick enough to shine, but not thick enough to run. This coat will not give full color, especially over gray primer, but must be shiny, not powdery. Get the nozzle a little closer to the work to achieve this, otherwise you get an "orange-peel" or powdery finish. After the first wet coat, let it flash off for maybe 5 minutes, and then repeat. The second wet coat should almost fill in the color. This time, give it maybe 10 minutes in warm weather, then repeat. The third wet coat should be fully colored, and make everything look smooth and brand new. You can go with a 4th coat, but generally, 3 will do a good job.
After this, let the lower dry in the sun for several hours, turning it so both sides get cooked well. This makes it so you can handle it the same day, without worry of damage. After this, keep solvents away from the finish for at least a week. This stuff gets tougher and tougher, until it becomes like hard plastic after maybe two weeks or so. Like I say, I have never seen a can paint that makes such a glass-smooth finish, and is so durable once it cures.
It's probably too late, but I'd recommend that you go back over that lower with a "wet coat" after perhaps a week. IF you do it after the surface has dried, but before it's fully cured, the new paint could cause the existing paint to crinkle and loosen.
Get the thickness up, and you will be impressed with the quality of that paint.
Love your videos!
Hey Tony, thanks for all the tips. I certainly don't have much experience with this type of work but I do really enjoy it so it's great to learn more about it. I'm pleased to hear that the Evinrude paint is tougher than I thought. I ended up putting the whole can on in the end, but I've still got the other one and haven't installed any parts in it yet so adding more coats is definitely possible. I think I need to practice a bit with getting that wet coat. You description is excellent of making it thick enough to shine, but not to thick to run. You couldn't have put it into words better! I'll also look into the zinc aluminium primer, sounds like a great way to protect against corrosion down the track. Stu
Stu,
Glad the descriptions made sense. You help so many people, it's nice to be able to share something with you.
Here is the primer I use most often: www.idealtruevalue.com/store/p/177065-15-OZ-Professional-Aluminum-Aerosol-Spray-Primer-Durable-Spray-On-Base.html
When is your trip ? The big fish are here now. We had four big ones the other day, plus many, many small to medium fish. I bought a cheap $29 camera, and took video of the first big one, but the quality is terrible. Still, it gives you an idea of what it's like... czcams.com/video/4Y5MjjVnwAc/video.html
The bigger fish will be here until June, but there is always something to catch. -Tony
Thanks for the link to the primer, I'll see if I can get some and give it a try. Just watched your vid, can't wait to head out that way and meet everyone. Not sure of the exact date yet but I'll make sure it is in the boating season. ;)
Since using that primer, I have had excellent success with painting aluminum. Hopefully, it works well for you.
Boating season can be any time, depending on your boat. In the summer, I run a center console in the salt, and my 16' aluminum boat in fresh water. Neither are pretty, but they run well, and catch fish. But both are too open to run in the winter. So last year, I cobbled together a good winter boat. It has a cabin, full enclosure, and even heat. And it's a good looking boat, for once!
First look at the boat: czcams.com/video/32Az8w_M2SI/video.html
First run on the lake: czcams.com/video/07gbiP8liww/video.html
Since those videos, I have slowly gotten her rigged out, and she is ready to go. So whenever you come, I should be able to get you on the water comfortably, IF you actually feel like being on the water.
G'day Tony, A bit off the subject but you seem to know your stuff and i'm hoping you might be able to help me with some advice. I have a 1994 3cyl yamaha 30hp motor which has a corrosion hole in the exhaust port of the powerhead casing which was allowing water into the bottom cylinder (yes it's stuffed the bottom crank bearing but the rest of the bearings, rods and pistons look ok). The rest of the motor is in very good condition. I'm wondering if there's a way to fix it to save me the expense of getting a new or reconditioned powerhead altogether (apparently they're rare as rockinghorse poop now..I've been quoted $1000 for one from the wrecker which is probably not viable considering it's age/value)? Would the JB Weld or similar product work or would the high temps cause it to fail in time? BTW nice fish! Cheers Mate!
Great video. I was very concerned about the pitting on my lower unit, but this video helped me restore it back to fantastic condition. Thank you so much for this video and all the others that have helped me along the way. This is a wonderful CZcams channel that shines through all the noise and junk out there. Perfect information, perfectly delivered.
Thanks mate, glad the video help and glad you got your lower unit looking great again. :)
Seen so many of these
Really felt cheeky on this one.
Ah, yes the kind, forgiving place of the internet recognizes you as the CZcams Godfather of Outboards
New subscriber to the channel here but I’ve been watching your videos for some time now they have taught me a lot and helped through some things on my boat, I really appreciate the time you take to explain everything and keep the videos coming they are great
Hi Jason, I'm glad you've been enjoying the vids and thanks for subscribing!
I second this comment!
Nice video. I’m a big fan. I restored a 1985 privateer fiberglass boat from patching holes to wiring all new electronics and putting on a 2004 Yamaha 2 stroke. Could not of done it with out you. Thanks again.
Thanks Robert. Glad to hear the vids helped you get your boat all fixed up. :)
great video thanks for sharing !!!
Just watching this before I tackle my yam 8hp, done a Suzuki box the other day out of lockdown boredom, could go one of those coopers green though
Your videos have been a big help.
Another great lesson thank you👌
Love the show, taught me a lot thanks so much.keep it coming..
Looks real good considering what you started with.
Great how to Video Stu; Thanks Mate !!.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Stu, great video, I recently did the same with 1995 5HP Mercury. After priming I used an auto single pack black high temp engine enamel followed by a high temp clear coat. About the same price you indicated. It seems tough and the lower unit looks ace.
Thanks Michael. Clear coat at the end is an interesting idea. We've got plenty of it here, it would tempting to give it a try.
Great video!
-Jack
Thanks Jack.
Thanks for the video Stu - I wish that was mine you were doing :)
Thanks Brent. We'll do a video on your outboard cowling next time you are in the Hawkesbury. :)
Thanks for this good video!
Thanks mate!
Looks pretty good I did the same thing with marine jb weld and por-15. Stoped the project to work on other thinks but a total of 2 or 3 coats of por-15 before a final sand and then the paint to color. Maybe I'll video it. Love your channel it inspires me to tackle anything
Hey stu i here its hot your way -26°f here this morning in Michigan USA always good watching your videos. Have a great day be safe
The lower unit came out good
good video , so i warmed up my lower unit with a heat gun the bent edges in the old lower unit that is and put it in a vice . it ended up very straight with a few turns on the bench vice
THanks mate. Vices are always great for jobs like that.
Nice video to reminisce about the old ways of the boat yards. Started there in 1966 and worked in marine engineering until I retired a few years ago. That was a good effort for a home repair.
But for a shop job, I'd like to offer a few suggestions: 1.) After media blasting (good it was not sand, you don't need silica embedded in the surface...), I'd treat the whole with Penetrating Epoxy. Very liquid and runny, but it literally soaks into the "gray" metal that is still strong enough to resist media blast, but is now porous from electrolysis erosion. 2.) When the penetrating epoxy gets tacky as in it will hold a thumb print (about 10-minutes), slather on your 2-part epoxy filler. 3.) Once you have the part ready to paint, all fared out to both shiny metal and smoothed filler, skip the primer, wipe down with acetone, then wipe on penetrating epoxy - let it flash off and apply color. Build up layer on layer with full tack but no drying between each coat. It'll be as durable as you can do w/o full hazmat 2-part polyurethane, remote breather air, etc...
I have used Norglass Northane 2 pack linear polyurethane , both undercoat and top coat, coverage and resistant is great, I use Perval portable spray gun, these are great, with bare metal use etch primer, first, if you haven't got any, a real mist coat of primer. Have repaired and sprayed my laser dinghy and about to spray parts of a mercury 140. Like to thank you, since finding your blog, you have helped me out a lot, ps I am a spray painter by trade and dad was a motor mechanic (since passed a way), so your videos are very help ful.l
Good job she looks mint👌
Thanks Dean!
You could use Devcon or Belzona Aluminium resin pastes to fill the pitted surface.
We have a two part metal epoxy here called JB Weld. It has a rather legendary reputation for working miracles. FWIW, Been anxiously waiting for more wood boat build videos!!!
Yes, I have heard of JB Weld but I didn't know it was similar to Devcon, I'll check it out. I'm filming more boat building tomorrow. :)
There is a product called Intergard 822, redhand for short. It's a two part epoxy that makes a putty. Once you make the putty you can thin it out with methanol and put it on with a paint brush. You can sand it in 24 hours. We used this technique to fill in pitting on the inside of large pumps when we were rebuilding them.
Thanks for that, I'll check it out.
Cool Stu, Different subject video for sure but interesting. My merc has that black thick coating which is a special mercury marine paint. $$$ I'm sure. The paint on my outboard is still very good but the pivot arm right behind the tilt tube is really rusted up. I plan on removing the engine next off season onto a engine stand then doing a Stu on it. It's small but hard to get to for any kind of success left on the motor. I could just buy a new one but being retired again have plenty of time. Haha I see you found my Dangar picture on your'e FB page. Will be proud to join you're blackboard of honor🤓
Hey Tim, it's very common for those pivot arms to rust. I don't know why they are made from mild steel, it seems crazy. I plan to replace the one on my Honda one day and will definitely be filming it. Will have your photo up soon! :)
Next time you're at the auto store, ask for a squeegee, we call it in the US. It's about a 3x4 inch black, hard rubber thing 3/16" thick and used for body filler. It'll work fine for epoxy. If the epoxy dries on it, you just bend it and it all peels off. Good job. Let me just add, a friend had an old car that had been painted by brush and you could hardly tell. I wouldn't even bother spraying. That paint would have filled all the tiny imperfections. Just that most paint is water-based and that is not so tuff as the old stuff.
Another well made video one think I will add is a high build primer would help fill in those small imperfections don't use bondo when under salt water for long periods of time used it on a Jon boat once looked good and lasted a few years but after a while it started to get soft and come off and it was painted over
Yes, I think a good high build primer and bit more bogging would have made it look better. Oh to have the time!
Stu,
I also wanted to comment on how your instincts were dead correct in this video. Dead on about the filler, about which paint to use, and about hammering versus levering out bends.
Good job on hammering out the bends. Cast aluminum is a funny metal. It's fairly malleable, but not very flexible. So in other words, you can beat on it all day, but if you grab it with tongs or pliers, and try to bend it- SNAP! And that heating and cooling thing sounds like a bad idea to me!
If really bent at a severe angle, heating it up really helps, but still use a hammer, and something heavy to back it with. I have a 5lb sledge hammer that I use as an anvil most of the time.
A tip I learned from a prop maker is to use the ball hitch of your truck to hammer out damaged props. That was one of the most helpful tips anyone has ever given me! The flat spot on top works on straight spots, and the rounded parts can even put the cup back into the blades. With some practice, it's amazing how much damage you can reverse.
Boy, I'm chatty today! I think I'm just stalling, as I have a big engine swap to do today. Time to get out there and get to it. Cheers!
Hey Tony, thanks for sharing the tip about using the truck ball hitch as an anvil, I really like that idea. Ha! I totally understand stalling to avoid certain jobs. I'm just about to go back downstairs and start working on the boat. It's not so much that I'm not enjoying it, I've just had a mental block around the first bits of gluing that I need to move past. Good luck with your engine swap! :)
Thanks. The swap is going well. Got the old engine and wiring pulled, and the Evinrude is mounted.
Tomorrow, I'll get all the wiring and controls connected, and hopefully, she will be ready for a sea trial.
Notification squad here too...lol. i dont think il ever be in a position where il be painting a outboard unit but i do love ya vids Stu..
Thanks Darren!
good vid great info...
Thanks Jason!
🤣 15:40 im dying here !!! Looks good for what it is its better then when you started
Thanks as alway Stu for a thoughtful vid including your usual frank self assessment for ways to improve the next go round. Question...if it's hard to keep the paint on lower units it's almost impossible to keep an aluminum prop looking nice I find. Even a few hours spinning in water will begin to scrub a home paint job off. Any tips there?
Hey mate. Unfortunately I'm not sure there is much that can be done about that. I noticed a friend bought a new Yamaha and the paint was coming off the gearbox within weeks (particularly with the shallow running we need to do around here) I presume the factories use the toughest paint available (usually some sort of powder coating) and even that won't last.
When we filled the fiberglass weave of our Long Eze aircraft, we used resin filled with micro balloons. For structural bonds, we used flox (fibers) to thicken the runny resin. Epoxy would work the same and is easier to sand. We had to fill and sand every square inch.
Hi William. Yes, I'll be doing plenty of that on the boat build. I've got 10 kg of micro balloons for all the fairing I'll be doing on it.
A good way to get some further filling of those small pits would have been to use a good two part urethane primer surfacer. PPG makes one that you can build up in multiple coats and is fairly easy to sand. Then I would have used a good automotive 2 part polyurethane to seal it all up. Just depends I guess on how much time you want to spend on getting it “perfect”.
The damage on that leg looks to me like corrosion.
I would bet the boat has lived in salt water on a mooring or marina with the engine tilted and the front of the leg has been touching the water, either all the time or in wave conditions.
I like your repair!
Awesome video again , love this channel for all my boat questions . How big of a deal are the imperfections in the lower case? I have a 115 Merc mariner 2 stroke and it runs amazing but the lower case is a little beat up , being a rookie boater and the first boat I’ve had I don’t really have any thing to gauge the performance off , it’s an 18.3 ‘ 1996 bayliner capri. Seems to pick up and go pretty good has a nice looking wake out the back.
Nice job! A good ole' 5 foot paint job is all anyone needs on an outboard foot. Its under the water most of the time anyways :)
Come on Sean, give me credit, this is at least a four foot nine inch paint job. ;)
You can use Aluminum auto body filler on the outboard lower unit.
Gday mate great video i thought at first the gearbox was of an old suzuki they were shockers for corrosion ,ive used and done most of what you showed and that epoxy 2 pack isnt cheap or were i got mine from wasnt . Another option for the skeg is a stainless cover normally used if the skeg is damaged but you have given it another good few years of life again good video for diy people .
Hi mate. Yes, I had forgotten about the epoxy when doing the cost total, but I think it was about $80 or something ridiculous. I guess it's not so bad given it lasts a long time and we will use it for many jobs, but it you were to buy some for a single job it certainly adds to the cost. I have't seen those skeg covers you mentioned. I've only seen replacement aluminium ones you can weld on.
Google "Skeg Guard" and you will find many. Here is a link to a typical model:
www.iboats.com/shop/skeggard-with-skid-plate-99034.html
These work well, in my opinion, as long as you order the correct model for the make and HP of your lower unit. You don't need much skeg to use them, only enough to attach the bolts to. I've put them on broken skegs that only had an inch or so left, and you would never know!
Hi i think my 50hp yam had a snapped skeg as it did have one on it seen a guy with a brand new honda who got to close to the local reef and snapped his skeg of poor bugger was nearly in tears .With the price of them you would pay to check with a local welder as how much he would charge or even if he would do it and weigh up what was best to do .
I enjoy your videos and they have helped me out. Especially when I replaced the steering in my old SeaRay. I do hardwood flooring for a living and when I fill nail holes/ voids I use a flexible putty knife. I make sure I have a blob of wood filler on the end of the knife and squish it into the void until just filler comes out. That seems to be pretty effective. An orbital sander would have really helped you out on this project. I use those for all kinds of things. One final thing. I would have sprayed primer on a piece of scrap and then sprayed the top coat on it to make sure they were compatible. Nothing worse then doing all the filling and sanding only to find out that the top coat shrunk or fisheyed. Keep up the good work !
Great step by step, love it, I was wondering if you could do a series on welding different things wit your welding equipment as well as cutting with the torch, I am not a welder, don’t have time to go for learning classes, if you can go as to point out time of equipment, settings,etc. I have done some wire and torch cutting and welding but not much but without taking you from the main features if you can do som more on welding would be great. Love your repair shows!
I know it is not your expertise but I would like your comets. The two most commonly used primers are zinc chromate (that funny yellow green color) or "self etching" primer.
When using "rattle can" paint, it is very important to follow the label instruction exactly for the second and any additional coats. Too soon and it will cause sages. Too late, and the previous coat will have cured and now the new coat can not truly "bond" to it.
I'll have to look into the zinc primers, they sound perfect for aluminium. I've always gone more for an etch primer for adhesion, but below the water line zinc sounds like a good choice. You're dead right about the timing for the coats. As you say, you want to do a wet-on-wet coat to get a chemical bond rather than just a physical bond. Getting it right makes a huge difference.
Spb sir u r genius 😎
Hey mate have a look at using Belzona to rebuild the corrosion damage and leading edges on those pitted lower units. No need for heat and you can machine the unit back to spec really easily 😉 I recommend Belzona 1111
Thanks for the tip!
Hi Great posts.
Don't know if I would recommend powder coating . Powder cures around 200 C it might warp the housing.
In Oz we mostly use polyester powder. Its not a great corrosion barrier and its relatively soft. If we could use epoxy or hybrid powder like in Europe they would probably be Ok as there much harder and better for corrosion but can't handle our UV
Keep the Videos coming Thanks
good to see. that'll be beat up in a week or two anyways but you are there might as well do it. still snowing here but getting things ready.
Yeah, it won't take long to looking well loved once it goes in the river, but it was fun to do anyway.
When spraying paint use a dust mask to protect your lungs. It won't filter out the gasses but if you use a high protection class dust mask it will filter out the airborne paint particles. You don't want to coat your lungs with paint ;)
I was actually just holding my breath and doing it in short bursts. I do have a good dust / gas mask for painting but it's so hot when you are wearing it so I only use it for really bit jobs.
Hey Stu, really enjoying all your videos. I have a 1982 60 hp Johnson on contemporary model Stacey. I am keen to refurbish and revamp the old girl. Your vids are a confidence booster to do so. I wondered why you didn't use your TIG (with approp' Filler rod to fill a few of those larger cavities, knowing that the paint is eventually going to be warn off, allowing corrosion around the edges of the bog. Keep up the great work.
TIG'ing those deeper dimples is a dangerous endeavor! A little too much heat on those thinner spots, and you will melt a hole though the lower, and turn it into garbage. That metal epoxy will not fail when properly applied to a sand-blasted surface. Stu used the right stuff.
Hi Neil, as Tony says, my big fear there was blowing a hole right through the gearbox and needing to bin it.
Dangar Marine Fair enough. Thanks.
Can you give me a tip to get the tickover down on my merc 75 2t
I've taken the timing right down to 0 btdc but it's still about 8 -900 rpm ?
Blue tack works well in threaded holes before painting, then remove before paint skins up too much.
AND, all those pits are called speed holes.. they reduce friction in the water (similar to a golf ball in air) and add rpm hp and noticeable top end speed 😉
Stu could you make a video on how to choose the correct propeller for your boat?
Thanks James in Houston, Texas
Hi James, yes, that is very high on my list. I'd like to do it in collaboration with a company like SOLAS so it's going to take a bit of organising but I'm going to do it soon if I can.
Thanks for the update. James
Having done this as well, I am wondering if the paint you used for the top coat was a catalyzed paint that is impervious to oils and fuels? I have never seen such paint in a rattle can like that before. Just wondering.
Yes, it is advertised and fuel and oil safe.
Hi not sure if you have heard of belzona, I’ve repaired gearbox cases with it, you can even form threads in it, may be able to fill these marks
Hey Chris, reading about it now it seems that Belzona, Devcon and JB Weld are all very similar products.
I learned a lot watching that video I’m fixing To repair my Johnson 100 horse lower unit now know how to do it thank you
Great Video as usual, can you please enlighten me where you get your Evinrude Paint & also spare parts from, I'm in Adelaide & am keen on doing most of the servicing on my 90hp etec myself (using your videos as guidance of course) cheers Ray.
From The channel sponsor, MarineEngine.com
Hi love your videos very informative just wanted to now would it be ok to buy an outboard with a damaged prop or should i leave it alone thanks
Thanks mate. Almost every outboard I see has a damaged prop on it so I wouldn't be too worried. The soft aluminium and the rubber bushing stop the gearbox from getting damaged by any strikes.
Dangar Marine top man thanks keep up the great work
Hi Stu, Do i need te remove the inside of the lower unit. or is there any way to keep it in while blasting? Thanks
Another great vid Stu. Any time I've heard about painting metal, they always bang on about etch priming. It sounds like a real drag. It seems like you've skipped this step. Can you explain the whys and wherefores of etch priming?
Hi mate. Etch priming is no big deal, it is just using a primer paint that has a certain amount of acid in it that will etch into the metal and form a chemical bond as well as a physical bond, it isn't something you need to do manually.
Dangar Marine Cheers👍
Thanks for the video, i am planning on painting my lower as well. I am in the USA, I wonder if JB Weld or JB Waterweld would work to fill in those pits?
The real question is if you keep your boat docked or just put it in for day trips. If you keep it at a dock most of this paint will have fallen off in a few weeks. The primer you use matters huge but even the best rattle can primer meant for aluminum just doesn't help it. Only way to do it right is an epoxy primer and a 2 part top coat. Then it lasts. But don't get me wrong, I have every pice of gear to do it right and I just finished prettying up my 115 tower of power with those exact rattle cans from the marina. For the 60 bucks and one day I spent on it the thing looks new. But it's on a boat that rarely sees the water and is under a cover. Just don't get your hopes up and think that doing this will reset your motors paintjob to the way it was new. Still worth the quick scuff and spray once a year if you keep it in the lake. And you can make them pretty if you keep them dry most of the time. But it's just not as sturdy of a coating. Even the top of a cowling will look great when you spray it bit will be pretty weatherd after 1 year in the sun. But once again rubbing it down with scotch Brite and a 16 dollar can of paint, maybe 2 hours of work a year and it keeps it looking fresh. It's well worth using these spray cans, I do it to every boat motor I get. But be warned not to put your whole sole in to making a perfect paint job with them because it's very temporary.
How difficult is it to disassemble the lower unit and remove the inside mechanics before doing a job like this? Would you recommend against it for a beginner? Thanks for the great videos!
no need to disassemble the internals,of course, if it's the outside that gets painted
Notification squad checking in.
That should be a t-shirt. ;)
Dangar Marine lets make it happen, still waiting for dangar marine the stubby holders haha.
You could try baking the primer and then the paint on. 190˚ F for 1 hour.
I am getting ready to paint a 1956 30 hp Johnson it doesn’t have pitting sat in a basement for 50 years just little white blisters is corrosion only the paint got in in places using hvlp paint gun do I need a Hardner in the paint thanks for the videos
What's the best primer and paint to use on the tall tail that's going to be in water for long period of time. And what would be the best paint and primer to use on a pontoon boat railing that will last
Ya can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear Stu, although you came close I think. Nice job.
Check the Brooklyn post office from Monday on as I have sent you a letter in your full name C/O of the Brooklyn Post Office.
Many thanks again Stu.
Cheers, Bruce.
Thanks Bruce, glad you liked it. I'll check the post office on my way to the shop next week.
Nice job! My luck if i did that...I'd end up hitting a rock bar the next day. Thats how my luck goes
Ha! I don't think you are along in that type of luck. ;)
Great video.
Two things come to mind.
First - Bondo!
Second - the leading edges may be pitted because this area is subject to severe friction which erodes the painted surface leaving the underlying metal subject to corrosion.
Done. Thanks.
I don't mean to knock your comment, but as an honest question... is Bondo a good product for use in underwater scenarios? I'm not a marine mech-tech so I wouldn't really know, but is Bondo something that the marine guys use? If/when the paint and/or primer gets pitted or worn thru, how will the bondo react to salt water? And lastly, if you use Bondo on the lower unit of an outboard, can your buddies and mates rightly call your boat a "Bondo buggy"? Lol.... just kidding around there....
I've used it on my lower unit and its doing OK. As far as I know, it is epoxy based so I think the properties would be the same or similar to epoxy used for other below waterline applications. Nevertheless, I don't know of any definitive answer to the underwater matter.
Cool. Well, I just wouldn't have thought of your standard Bondo body filler if I were forced to think about a filler product for marine use, but I suppose why not. I guess sometimes you gotta think outside the box, eh... Now that it's been brought up, I poked around on the interweb and found out that Bondo (aka 3M) has a bunch of products. And all this time, I thought all they did was autobody filler.....
I was thinking the same thing. How long did it take to wear the paint off to start corroding. Then how many years did it take to cause that much corrosion. The same will probably happen again. Good work Stu! Thank you.
Bondo is a polyurethane resin based material, with lots of filler to make it thick. It does not do well in immersion situations. It will last for awhile, if sealed well by paint, but is not ideal. Properly applied epoxy-based materials are much better, especially if they don't have "powder" fillers. JB Weld is an old product, and as stated in a comment earlier, is legendary for how durable it is. Hence, the nickname, "Liquid Steel."
I don't know why Johnson thought white was a good color for an outboard so hard to keep it looking clean. Looking forward to the boat build vids.
I guess it looks good in the showroom which is all you need to get the sale. I'm looking forward to getting stuck back into the boat tomorrow.
It depends on where you are. In muddy waters, the white stains quickly. But around here, in hot, saltwater situations, white holds up well. Darker motors tend to get faded out and get salt rhine on them, and require more washing and waxing and so on, to keep them looking good. Black shows everything! The white motors reflect more of the sun, and don't get as hot, and look better. In Florida, where it's even hotter than here, you see white Yamaha and even Mercury outboards, which is very strange to see.
What type of welder did you use and what filler metal? I have a crack in my cavitation plate that I need to weld. Thanks
I've acquired a 1968 65 hp Mercury 650 Thunderbolt. It runs! Would that be considered a classic worthy of restoration?
Good question, I'm so sure about that motor, but I think anything from the 60s would have some charm to it.
Dangar Marine I'm working on it. Thanks for your passion and effort in sharing knowledge. It's a great hobby.
Great Video it looks like a 80s 50 hp Johonson. shows how salt water corrodes an outboard.
Thanks Nick. Yes, I'm not sure how much of this is to do with the salt water and how much is to do with amount of silt and debris in the river.
But now that you have factory paint, you can keep it touched up, and she will never corrode again.
nice... now you have some folks thinking that they have to disassemble out the gears ,bearings and shafts to paint the housing
Cool hey!
I am restoring an inboard/outboard on an 83 Bayliner and was concerned about the paint to use on the transom collar which is partially submersed for the best part on a month or so. Any advice? Is engine paint good for this as well?
sea69man it would be a good idea to paint it amazon sells it or a marina it’s highly toxic
Nice, not bad at all. I don't like doing cosmetic work. Function over form I say. Or is it find form in function? But this stuff is good to know. You possibly could have it powder coated, it goes on thicker and might fill in a lot of those smaller imperfections.
I thinking about powder coating but wasn't sure how it goes when you aren't trying to coat every surface.
Hey Stu, I have a 1993 Evinrude 30HP twin to your Johnson 30. It has 125 PSI compression in both cylinders with nice smooth bores and standard (original) nice condition pistons. I have it completely torn down cleaning and installing new gaskets, t-stat, etc. Does it make sense to put new rings in for $60 US while it is apart?
With good compression and what sounds like not too much use I wouldn't worry about changing them.
Ever hear the saying, "Don't fix it, if it is not broken"? You could change the rings, but then you would have to hone the cylinders and follow a break-in procedure, and hope everything wears in together correctly. But what if it doesn't? With 125 psi in all cylinders, why mess with it? Get her back together, and out on the water!
quick questions for any out there...where can i find pdf repair manuals i can download online...dont mind paying but just wondering best place to go or the download
Take a look at tradebit.com and readmanual.com
Anodes should not be affected by paint because it is attached to the lower unit via the bolt securing it. Right?
I know what you are saying, but every service manual I have read says to make sure they have a clean metal to metal contact.
Just curious could gel alex seal be used on aluminum?
Where can I get a T- shirt? Your pretty big here in Texas!!!!
Hey mate, here's the link dangar-marine.myshopify.com/collections/merchandise Prices are in Australian dollars so less in US dollars.
hey dangar where do u order ur parts i need a power pack fpr a johnson im in Newcastle
I get them from the channel sponsor, MarineEngine.com