How to Paint Clan Jade Falcon Guards Part 1 | Battletech Miniature Painting
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- This is the first part of a two part video tutorial on how to paint the Falcon Guards of Clan Jade Falcon. The purpose of the first video is to demonstrate how to use spray can primers instead of an airbrush to achieve a simple two tone fade camo and then move on to basic shading and highlighting.
Visit our website www.camospecs.com for thousands examples of painted mechs and combat vehicles in their official regimental paint schemes.
Camospecs Artist Instagram links:
B1BFlyer: hotelhobbyi...
Brushido: brushidotwo...
Cap'n Ed: the_artist_...
Wondergecko: table_top_g...
Waterslide Decal Transfers:
www.fightingpirannhagraphics.com
Hardware Studios Terrain & Accessories:
hardwarestudios.co/
Thanks to Tex of the blackpantslegion, check out their content:
/ @theblackpantslegion
If you find our channel's videos helpful and want to show your appreciation through monetary support, the CSO paypal link is listed below:
fund@camospecs.com - Hry
That 5 minutes of painting part was really helpful. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great work, B1B! Looking forward to future parts of Falcon Guards, and any future content planned.
Thanks, this one turned out better than I expected.
You posted those magic words, Falcon Guards 😎.
In a few weeks, when I get my beginner's painting station set up and start working on the KS minis, I'm going to deeply appreciate these long, uncut painting segments. :)
Excellent.
Wow perfect timing I was just about to do a Falcon Guard Aidens Timberwolf.
Glad I got it done in time for you to see how I did mine!
That 2x flat primer is amazing.
Agreed, Wondergecko got me on to using it for terrain and such. Great stuff!
Bold to use the rattle cans to do the blended transition between green and red (instead of an airbrush). Well done!
This was great! I am looking forward to part 2. Thanks for sharing this.
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice, was thinking of painting some of my mechs in jade falcon colours, so this is just in time! Can't wait for the second part!
Great work. I use the Contrast line all the time. I haven't tried with multiple base colors yet. That will have to wait for my Clan Invasion to show up.
Experimenting with contrast has been a lot of fun with some of the things I've tried. Hope your wave 2 shows up soon!
Great video! For the 5 minute part where there was no narration just painting, a "quick" little rant from Tex about the clans would be hilarous.
Thanks, good idea, I'll see about that in the future
Wow, this is really a great tutorial. Nice touch with that rattle can!
Thanks Mike!
Awesome work! The video is spot on as always! This tutorial is exactly what I needed for my current miniature, thanks!
Great to hear, I hope it helps you with your painting.
@@CamoSpecsOnline I'm sure it will. I always go through your other tutorials for refreshers since I'm fairly new to painting miniatures. Currently doing the Urbie from the Kickstarter. Can't wait to do the Timberwolf
I agree with your concern on army painter sprays. I live in Florida and have ruined more models than I care to admit with those. They do not take well to humidity down here… at all. Rustoleum 2x paint/primer is my go-to… even over GW sprays. Its only drawback is the longer drying time.
The rustoleum camo sprays are super flat and look great, but they are VERY weak. Do not attempt any sort of oils/white spirits over them without multiple generous coats of varnish.
Yeah the humidity struggle is real. Thanks for the tip on the camo sprays, I didn't know they were as fragile as you mentioned.
Seeing the way the contrast paint acted over the Rusty Metal primer vs. the Army painter primer was informative. The Army painter primer gathered the contrast paint right into the corners and panel lines, but would lay on top of the Rustoleum primer. It had to dry and then be painted over before they pooling would begin. I wonder if that is the surface quality of the Rustoleum, or the "oil vs. water" base (it would not absorb the water like an acrylic would) causing that difference.
Interesting observation. I didn't really notice as I was trying all these steps out but still filming for the tutorial and would adjust if needed to make the result match the art. Since I ended up using drybrushing and oils over the rustoleum, it did put more layers to mask some of that pooling you mentioned.
Thanks for the rattlecan tutorial, I’m going to have to try it out.
Hope you like it!
Great stuff Ryan. Probably going to use this to paint up my Taiga Galaxy/Freeman star for the transition from aa nightsky to green camo.
Excellent, I hope it helps you out!
Looking good.
A tip on the priming, it may be that you're holding the can a bit too far away, causing the pebbling roughness. The downside is that with 2x printer, they're meant for large projects and the paint flow is insane when trying to do minis. It's possible but difficult to not flood or get signed issues with too little or too much distance.
Yup it's a combination of the things you mentioned as well as trying to film while priming. I'm not much of a fan of enamel primers anyway but I know a lot of painters use them.
8:45 this is oddly relaxing 🙂.
Therapy comes in many forms. This one is free of charge!
Amazing paintjob!
I notice there's some speckling to the end result, is that something to expect from this process or was it just humid when the final coat was applied?
The Army Painter primer I mentioned isn't great and it caused some surface texture. In addition to that, drybrushing usually shows a bit of uneven surface texture on flat types of surfaces so that's to be expected if you go with a similar level of application that I did. A lot of it will be smoothed out in part 2 and a lot of the drybrushing on the brown areas was not really necessary if you aren't following up with more painting later.
@@CamoSpecsOnline i found the 2x camo army green you mentioned, works great.
So just a quick question about the paints you used. If you were to use say citadel paints and not sprays to start after priming the model what red and green would you choose?
If you're using the same contrast paint wash afterward, I'd probably use something like a nurgling green or warboss green for the top and then a mournfang brown for the lower half.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Thank you. That's actually 2 paints I have already
Just wondering where you got the larger image of Pryde's mech from the card?
I went to the CGL employee who does most of their art layout and asked him for it.
When is "Camo Specs" going to do a new Camo tutorial?
What kind of "New Camo" are you interested in? And you know the website is named after the original CamoSpecs art book that contained both camouflage and non-camo unit schemes so the name doesn't imply camo-only. ;)
@@CamoSpecsOnline I would be interested in a camo scheme similar to the Falcon guard scheme for Aidan in the Legends book. Perhaps a little brighter.
Do you drill the hole for the foot pin or heat it push it in?
I drill a hole, it's easier for me.
What do you suggest for learning what colors stack well. Like knowing what to wash snd dry brush with depending on what your bass is. Can be a bit overwhelming lol
Great question. There's not a simple concrete answer. I recommend you get a color wheel or print one like a martian color wheel. Seeing what primary secondary and tertiary colors do when mixed together will give you a good idea of what the outcomes will be. Drybrushing highlights can be done a couple ways. You can almost always drybrush with a lighter hue of the color your trying to bring up Brown with tan or khaki for example, or blue with light blue or light grey(with a blue hue) but those aren't set rules, just jumping off points. It's a lot to learn if you try to do it all at once, but if you pick a scheme or few colors to work with and focus on seeing how those work out for you, then you'll learn to get more comfortable.
@@CamoSpecsOnline ok cool, ya I just did some draconis combine mechs and got a lot of practice with red. The problem is I’m the only one around with mechs to paint so I’m trying to create a set of mechs that my friends and family can play with. Problem is that’s a lot of mechs so it’s overwhelming trying to pick what scheme to use 😂
@@timstinies9519 There are basically unlimited choices so I understand. I suggest you paint something you either enjoy, or want to try to learn with but keep it on the more simple side so you don't get in over your head with branching out on new techniques. But seriously, have fun with it first, it's a hobby.
@@CamoSpecsOnline thanks man!! I appreciate that!
@@CamoSpecsOnline oh also, what’s an “agitator”
Nice video, but it was driving me crazy the you missed the top of the leg and the inner arm. I kept saying oh ok he is going to do it now and then you would do something else.
Thanks. Knowing that I was going to use oils to blend more highlights I probably didn't pay as close attention to it as I would have with just a drybrushing step.
Maybe I missed it but where is this model from?
It's a Mad Cat Pryde from the BattleTech clan Invasion Kickstarter. This is not available at general retail, it was only sold during the Kickstarter in a lance pack with Morgan Kell's Archer, Grayson Death Carlyle's Marauder, and Natasha Kerensky's Daishi. These 4 models were also included blind-boxed in the Kickstarter. While these models won't be sold at retail Catalyst will probably be offering them in the future at cons, as promotional items and possibly through their webshop.
All that said, there is a regular Mad Cat model in the Clan Invasion box set, alongside a Grendel, a Puma, a Gladiator, a Black Hawk and two Elemental points. This mini is almost identical to the Pryde, save for the leg pose and the jump jets visible on the Pryde's back.
Beautiful drawing fhowlo me
Oh dear. I guess it's time to stripping my Aiden Pryde Mad Cat...
OMG Triggered! I kept shouting at the screen you missed the top of the left leg..... Arghhh! :)