Which Garage Door Insulation Works Best?
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2023
- I bought, installed and tested 6 different types of garage door insulation to see which ones work best and which are the best value. #diy #garage #weekendwarrior
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Thanks for all the effort put into this. A couple tips to improve accuracy:
1 - The laser dot is marking the center of a circle and the temp is averaged within the circle. The diameter of the circle is dependent on the distance and the angle set by the manufacturer. Check the manual for this info.
2 - the paper wasn't making good contact with the insulation, so there was very little conductive heat transfer.
3 - paint a black matte section directly on the insulation and read the temp off of that at a close range for the best accuracy (verify w/ a thermocouple taped to the service, or similar).
Also the outside temperatures were pretty varied. So, Idk if percent reduction in temperature is all that useful when comparing one panel with a 220 degree outside temp to another with a 180 degree outside temp.
Agree about #3, there's no control for the different emissivity of the materials. Not sure how accurate this analysis ended up being.
Exactly, that is one reason he was getting the different temps on the outside, especially between the two temp guns. 1 foot difference in distance makes a huge difference in temp reading.
Would like to see another video with a lil mom consistency
Great video. However, please note that Owens Corning Foamular products are combustible and must be covered by a 15-minute thermal barrier I would not recommend using Foamular to insulate a garage door.
Great video comparison! Having a 100° garage was very unpleasant! After 2 years with my insulation I have to say that my garage is much more people friendly now. Thanks for the shout out!
Where do I buy your product Mr.Fred. I want to put in my garage door.
Would painting the exterior garage door with ceramic paint help with the R-value?
IR thermometers measurement is dependant upon the emissivity of the material. If you want accurate results then stick some black pvc tape on and ensure it completely covers the field of view ( touch it against the material or cover a much larger area than you're measuring.)
This can completely change the readings.
Came here for this comment, and agree totally.
that's why he was using the paper...
Also get closer. The laser dot is just for aiming - these IR thermometers read from a cone, 10:1 for the Klein single-laser unit. That means reading from 8' is measuring a bigger spot than the paper.
@@slamdvw... Also, looking through the IR camera from 8:15 is clear that the paper is only warm in about the middle third, where the tape is holding it near the insulation. The "wings" that curve away from the wall are almost room temperature. Interestingly, you can also see the "heat reflection" of the foil-based insulators.
What are you talking about)))) look's like this guy took IR thermometer for the first time in his life🤣🤣🤣
By the way, I've also installed a mini split AC in my garage. I used the 24,000 BTU unit from Senville for our 3-car garage, which is much cheaper than most units at $1250 US dollars at the time I purchased in Feb of 2023. A guy in my neighborhood installed one before me and he recommended it based on their price, and phone support. He called all of the main companies and Senville's support was the best. I can attest to the support because I ran into an issue with the AC drain pan connector leaking, and they sent me a whole new inside unit. I was initially considering the 18,000 BTU unit, but I'm glad I went bigger. I left unit going nonstop during the hot months and set to 76 degree, it felt really cool in there. It's so nice! One thing I'll warn you of is be thinking about what you'll do with the condensation. These units can fill a 5 gallon bucket in a day, and the ground will be saturated where the drain line drips. I ran PVC to a flowerbed about 10 feet away and the plants in that area love the extra water.
I did the 1" foam board on my door a few years ago and have had excellent results.
it's not just tensioning the spring, the garage door specialist said they could add extra turns, but it would probably eventually break the spring. Needed to upgrade the spring to compensate for the extra weight.
I insulated my garage with Polyisocyanurate reflective foam (R9.6) spaced with wooden pieces (kind of what they use to seperate wood on pallets with)from door (air gapped) makes a huge difference. Used aluminum tape to seal air gaps around foam/frame
The least effective at 43% is actually the best value, and since the max performer is 56%, the performance between the two isn't quite as much as you might think. If it was me, I'd simply take all the bubble wrap I get from Amazon and See's and get to work taping them up. In most cases, the bottom line isn't heat flow, but the cost to heat or cool the heat flow. "Cost" includes mechanical heating and cooling, but also includes the insulation treatment. It actually takes rather little improvement of a bare metal panel to make a big difference in performance. The first 4 of "R" are the most impactful.
It's worth noting that is only true on the day of purchase but as time goes on your heating or ac cost will likely trump that initial cost difference.
As some one who lives in PA. It would be amazing to have this test done in the winter.
I still haven't done the insulation because I was wondering what method to use from the different videos on CZcams but you did the work for me, now I know which one I'll use. Just EXCELLENT !!! Great video, Thank you !
You could combine the Owen's Corning NGX with the lightweight double reflective insulation that is taped to the frame, and give you an air gap between them. That might be the best combination.
That would be a great one to try for sure!
I did this as well for my garage door. Made it bearable in the summer with a west facing garage door in the south.
do you mean the double reflective bit goes first in the slot and then the NGX?
13:57 the Springs are considered a wear product that occasionally will require replacement. Tighter springs result in shorter life, so the cost of the added insulation could escalate
True, and probably best to oversize springs when replacement time comes.
The thin reflective sheet could be mounted with an air gap. So they could have been mounted to the door frame rather than the door panels.
This would add a R value of about 1, excluding the thermal conductivity of any material installed between the door and the sheet to keep the air in place. Per my calculations, that would bring the option up to an R value of about 3.8.
I think another yt video mention that without the air gap the double reflective insulation became heat conductor and be less effective. Any reflective material is for repelling radiant heat transfer not for stopping conduction heat.
How I installed mine. Made a solid difference but not sure exact numbers
what about to keep heat in during the winter?
As I understand it, the double reflective stuff is supposed to have an air gap. It's in the instructions. Using the reflective stuff as the final layer in Fred's method would likely increase the efficiency.
I really appreciate thorough comparison of the techniques, their effectiveness and cost!
Awesome video as always!
I live in London in a 1960s era apartment block with no insulation (it's crazy, I know). I'm on the 10th floor and have a wall of windows that are 80s-90s era but so drafty in the winter wind. I've done all the rubber strips and plastic sheeting stuff, but what really works is putting in foam panels in the windows! Yes it blocks the view, but when I wake up for work in winter it's dark outside and when I get home from work it's dark already, so it's no big deal. The foam is pretty easy to work with for beginners and is renter friendly.
With those IR thermometers the further away you read, the more area you are getting the measure from... the laser dot seems to be the only point you are measuring but read the manual and it will tell you the area being read with distance...
Great info. I'll have to experiment with that to see what that might change.
IR thermometers have to be tuned for different materials. I have one that has values for glass, wood, metal, etc. I'm sure the single use ones are just tuned to an average.
Having the lower panels much hotter than the upper panels completely invalidates your test. The higher temperature on the outside will greatly increase the amount of heat radiated outward and thus a good part of your “greater” temperature differential inside to outside has nothing to do with the insulation on the inside, but is due to a faulty test. You need to test again ensuring that you have the exact same temperature on the outside of each panel.
Yep. This exactly.
TBH, I also question the overall utility of this. I'm sure it helps some but with all those gaps in a garage door, the thing's gonna leak heat like a sieve no matter what you do.
The lower panels are hotter because the insulation, all the heat that would be leaking through the door is being isolated on the outside since the insulation isnt letting it through. So you could actually use these outside panel temps to show which insulation is better as well
Awesome! We are about to do this with our garage due to a significant temperature difference between it and the living spaces, as well as it being under living spaces. Can't wait to see your winter comparison as well!
As a garage door guy I recommend the bubble insulation. Any of the other choices not just required adding tension but to do it properly the spring needs to get changed to match the new doors weight. That repair is usually more than the cost of insulation. If you want to go with the thicker stuff I recommend doing it when you're already planning on changing out the springs. Springs are only rated for 10,000 cycles and depending on how you use your door those 10,000 can add up pretty quickly.
From what i have researched, gauge, length, quarter turn all determine what can be lifted and the gauge usually determines life cycle if done correctly. But in most calculators they give a range. This method is adding 10lbs so likely can still be within spec
@@2mustange Probably, but not certain. You'll probably get away with not replacing the spring.... But, the other thing is how old is it? If its pretty old might as well replace it,.. Its easy to get sucked down a rabbit hole by adding the weight. just be prepared to. I think Johnson's advice is spot on. Most doors are out of balance, now add 10 pounds? Its going to show it even more. So, if you're planning to add weight, you should be prepared for someone to come out and rebalance it. This is NOT a DIY project they are stupid dangerous.
Well they do make high life cycle springs that are made to last past 10k
@@2mustangeit depends on the door length and height really. Not all doors will just be adding 10lbs. You’re not supposed to add insulation to an uninsulated door after springs have already been installed for uninsulated weight. Just asking for one to break then you’ll be out of pocket $300-400 for a new set. Some companies charge $400+ in some states. Garage doors are a lot more complicated than people realize.
@@2mustange I have software that gives my technicians exact numbers 🤷 and really a lot more goes into it than that. The doors weight, drum size and radius all go into engineering the proper spring size. Does it have high lift or is it pitched at a angle, that all changes the IPPT and in turn changes either the gauge wire and or length. If you want more cycles you will have a longer spring but that will also change the gauge needed to match the IPPT. If you run out of room and go too long to fit you can play with the diameter and make it larger or smaller to get different results or even go with a quad spring setup.
Great tip on the rebalancing the garage door spring. I hadn't thought of that.
Foil backed hard 2” foam insulation to provide a radiant barrier would probably be the best option for speed/weight/price.
Very interesting! Thanks for the summary at the end - I love that the top two in performance didn't add too much weight, were economical, and one is pretty quick and easy to install. Could be interesting to add in the insulation installed by a garage door company to the test.
Hey Mike, for sure. There are a dozen or more other solutions that would be fun to try but at least, like you mentioned, there are some efficient and inexpensive options to start with.
I just used the Owens Corning fiberglass insulation on my 2 car garage 8 panel door and I only had to pay $142 from Lowe’s for the 2 kits. Not only is it warmer in my garage but the door is remarkably quieter when it’s operating.
Thank you! I’ve been interested in insulating my one-car garage shop for a while now and this is incredibly helpful. 😁
Reflective face insulation is by far most effective with an air gap. It usually says so on the insulation board itself. It's manufactured to be used as sub-siding with either vinyl siding or brick on the outside, creating that inherent gap.
The DIY Fred solution is just following recommendations from the insulation maker, and then doubling it up because why not?
A few years ago I did an install using the owens corning kit and then went around the edges with foil tape. It was a literal night and day difference in the garage temps. I did have to have a local company come out and replace my springs due to the added weight on a double door, but it was completely worth it! I also want to add, you should have your door springs adjusted regularly, it’s cheap to have them come out and they do lose tension over time and tend to stabilize after about 2 years of daily use. It’s not really a one and done thing.
I agree completely. I adjust my door springs myself after watching my installer and watching several CZcams videos. ( I’ve been involved in home construction for years).
Awesome, I find your videos very useful. I was just watching several other videos on this subject for my weekend project. As I watched the last I was notified your was just put online. Yeah for setting the Bell for your favorite subscribers posting. Perfect timing!
That's awesome, Jeff. Glad you were able to find it at just the right time for you. This one was a lot of fun to make and I love getting some (at least somewhat) definitive answers on the best way to get a job done. Best of luck!
I would think the dominant factors are flammability, durability in presence of moisture, and weight. The pink foam flammability is scary to me, I won't be doing that though it seems like best option otherwise. The eps (not xps extruded) styrofoam can absorb water I thought. Sealing it like Fred's method seems like asking for trouble. But maybe the foil faced foam options deal with water so those then stand out as best. That service call to adjust spring will cost more than the entire installation so there's that...
Awesome review!!! Thanx a million. Regardless of the naysayers and critics, the rest of us appreciate the simple review and comparison. Definitely food for thought. God Bless!!
My garage is south-facing and very hot in the summer with internal temperatures slightly higher than the ambient temperature. This test was very helpful, thank you!
IR thermometers measure an average of an area in a cone that gets bigger the further you are away from the thing. So when your pointing it at those panels you aren't getting the temperature of where the laser is, that's just to help aim and is grossly misleading.
I really appreciate you doing this video. I have been researching for a solution for our three car garage. I found the cell system and was impressed but was not sure if I should go with that solution. Now I will decide either Cell or the Corning. Thank you so much.
Fantastic, thank you so much for your efforts. I will be going with the 1" formular.
Very interesting and affordable methods to improve the comfort in the garage. I think it would be interesting to do a modified test of the Owens Corning pink with the reflective insulation against the door and/or add the spacing similar to Mr Fred's DYI Garage School method to create an air gap between the pink foam and the door
On the solid owens corning closed cell the 1" and add an air gap. Then the reflective over that also taping the sides.
The reflective works better with an airgap you you put it right on the metal it lowers the effects, thats why the bottom left one works the best.
As far as getting a 2" thick sheet in, no problem, cut it into 2x2 squars
Pluse the 6" the side rails are 3" each side added. Take a circlur saw and cut a groove down the center you slide one side in add gap filler then slide the other side infill the gap with spray foam and run foil tape over it.
One big draw back with a foam insulation if it burns it gives off very toxic gases, by code it cant be exposed. You have to have a 2 hour firewall over it.
Dude- you’re in my head! Garage cooling AND decorative hardware are both on my list. Haha
Omg even tho I wasn’t gonna do anything with my garage door, your video made me watch the whole thing😂 super interesting and informative!
Glad you liked it and thanks for checking it out!
Great test. I like the results you came up with. Remember if you add weight it might not just be adding tension to existing springs but a completely new set of springs. Additional new doors use thermal breaks so the outside metal cant transfer heat inside this also helps improve the U-factor. See Clopay IECC compliance.
Thanks for all the helpful info
The double reflective insulation is a radiant barrier and needs an air gap. If you install it on the inside ridges of the door with polyseamseal, it will seal the segments of door and have the highest R value with the least amount of weight.
can really effectively insulate a thin tin door like that, a little here or there but nothing like an exterior home wall
Great timing as temperatures are changing. Now I won't be running the heater non stop! Thanks for the info!
You bet, and thanks for watching! I'm excited to get my garage outfitted to not lose heat/cold air as well!
I have used Tom’s Key and it worked fantastic, was easy and extra keys programmed all work perfectly. Would recommend to anyone. The local Chrysler dealer was a major rip off.
I would like to see the Fred's DIY School method and then add the double reflective in a sheet, covering the entire door, because, believe it or not, you are still getting air seeping between the joints. That would seal the entire door face. But you also have to think about sealing the gaps on the sides and at the top/bottom, because you will have a ton of air moving in and out of the garage.
Great video! If you haven't done it already, compare wall insulation types against closed cell foam insulation.
Great comparison! Thank-you!
I installed 1” rigid foam board on my garage door a few years ago. It helps, especially when the afternoon sun hits the garage door. Insulating the garage attic made a much larger difference! It now stays 9-10 degrees cooler in summer, compared to the outdoor temperature, and 9-10 degrees warmer in cold weather. We also had a mini-split installed. REALLY NICE!
Question: how to install/best way to install rigid foam board into those panels on the garage door. I found a couple ways, have never been satisfied with the results. Any guidance, perhaps a video, would be most appreciated.
Love your channel! Thanks again!
I insulated our garage door with styrofoam panels, and it didn't make much difference in the garage temperature, BUT it definitely decreased the icy draft flowing down the door in winter. Comfort level is much higher.
Door faces north, single garage is in walk-out (and drive-out) basement, almost 100% underground with living spaces above and on one side. Keeping cold out is more important then keeping heat out.
My garage door here in N Cakilaky has a ton of "hurricane strapping" that would have to be removed and then reinstalled for everything but the thinnest insulation you used. We did the thin foam insulation in our garage in Idaho and it helped a ton with the cold winters there. Thanks for the great video I enjoy your scientific experiments and the DIY stuff too! I wonder what two layers of the tinfoil bubble wrap with airgaps would do??
Most of the heat leak will come through the metal of the garage door itself. You should try a kit that attached to the inside of the metal. I was able to cut the kit so that when closed it butts up pretty tightly together and you take the hinges off 1 or 2 at a time and run the foam and radiant barrier underneath. The screws will still conduct but it also makes the door significantly quieter in operation as well
This was a really informative and well done video. I will definitely use the information I learned here. I did want to make one suggestion: a percentage temperature drop isn't really an accurate conclusion from the results. The reason is that our temperature scales' zero points aren't really zero temperature. They're just arbitrary points on the spectrum we assigned to be 0. 0 Celsius is more useful than 0 Fahrenheit, obviously, but neither truly represents zero temperature. Point being, 100 degrees is not twice as hot as 50 degrees and a drop from 100 to 50 wouldn't really represent a 50% drop. The only way percentages would work would be if you were using the Kelvin scale, whose 0 point truly is zero heat at all. But since none of us think in that scale, everything else would be meaningless to us. I think using actual temperature drop would be a better measurement. I'm sure you converted to percentage because your outside high temps weren't all the same and you were trying to account for that, which makes sense, but I think the problems with percentages just compound the discrepancy.
There is a lot of these vids out there and it's a great project for the DIY person. one thing that is often left out is the insulation adds extra weight to the door. not a ton but still extra. I learned this the hard way. That extra weight also wears on your springs and can shorten their life.
Thx so much for the information and your time, appreciate it! Great information!
Great video! Thank you for the info
Minor suggestions: most paint reflect some Infrared, which is how the thermal temperature measuring devices works. So you might have been getting a reflection of the heat source when making the outside measurements. Best to turn off the outside heat source and move them out of the reflection line, or just use a direct contact thermometer. None of this should change the relative performance between the samples though. It just might have exaggerated the temp difference.
Add the small air gap before the pink foam and you have a cheap solution to all your problems
I installed the Corning fiberglass insulation on my metal double car garage door and it did absolutely nothing in reducing the heat in the garage. My garage door faces west so it gets all the hot summer sun, it gets up to 106 in the garage in the summer. The insulation got it maybe 1 degree cooler, It helped reduce the street traffic noise. My friend installed the foam board insulation and it keeps his garage considerably cool in the summer but his garage faces east so it doesn't get the afternoon sun. I did have a professional garage door service man come out and install a new stronger spring and adjust for the extra weight. Also put new nylon rollers on and the reduced the noise a lot.
Great video. I had no idea how much heat went through my garage door until I got a thermal camera for Christmas.
Your videos are just awesome! I'm just learning, but you're a pro.
I’ve done the 1 inch pink foam, many times, very easy, effective and cheap. The fiberglass I’ve replaced several times for people the temp change loosens up the adhesive and the clips bend and fall out over time
Just an FYI, you can’t use percentages with temperature like that. Temperature difference is important, but percentage is meaningless. Convert your temperatures to Celsius, Kelvin, or Rankin and you’ll get different percentages, which tells you there’s a problem.
No. Because while the value of the percentage is different it still means the same as long as you use the same scale for each panel
@@soccerguy2433 as the type of engineer who deals specifically in heat transfer, you’re wrong. Percentages should NEVER be applied to temperatures. Even sticking to the same scale.
For example, if the outside temp is 100° and inside is 80°, the insulation is providing a 20° delta. If outside is 120° but inside is 100°, the insulation is exactly the same and providing the same resistance to heat flow, but percentages would suggest it’s different. (16% vs 20%). The point is you can not use percentage to compare temperature. Doesn’t matter if the scale is the same.
So based on the information in the video which do you say is the most effect.
Thanks Mr Meteorologist
@@soccerguy2433 using the percent scale, which is rated better: a panel that reads 5° C on one side and 1° C on the other or one that reads 30° C and 10° C? Which do you think is actually better at blocking heat transfer?
props on your audio volume!
One of your best. Thanks for the information.
Thanks so much!
Thank you! This was awesome and just what I needed to understand.
Great video, well done.
12:13 You CANNOT do a Percentage decrease in temperature in the manner. It's wildly unscientific. Fahrenheit and Celsius are arbitrary scales with arbitrary zero points.
First, if you're even going to think about doing percentages it MUST be done in Kelvin only.
Second, even in Kelvin it shows an incredible lack of understanding on how heat transfer works. Keep it simple, degrees (in any units) difference from ambient. But, you must keep the ambient constant.
Just the video I was looking for!
Great job! Thanks
Great Video. Thanks!!
Your video was simply amazing !
Nice job, I always enjoy your vids brother; keep up the great vids!
Thanks so much! I really appreciate it, man.
Excellent, excellent video. Thank you
One I've seen (and wanted to try myself) is the double reflective and 1" formular. I forget which way is best, the reflective first or reflective second.. but either way, that's what I had seen and wanted to try myself.
Nice work. So interesting.
I used Smart Shield, a 3mm thick reflective roll from Azn. It worked well. The garage used to be sweltering in the summer and now its bearable. I also put a dark window film on the glass panels and that helps a lot. I do like the glass panels to bring in sunlight even though they allow more radiant energy in. I spent about $90 on the reflective roll and about $20 on the window tint. I have a rolling floor HVAC in the garage when I work there in the summer and winter. I love my man cave. It has everything for a good shop.
That sounds awesome. No solution is perfect, including all of the ones I tested, and your setup sounds fantastic. I really wish I had windows in my door but we bought the home as-is and that's ok. Enjoy that man cave!
What brand and model HVAC and has it been reliable?
Nils great work! Check out the Telo truck, hopefully it comes out soon. Should be able to fit several in your garage.
I agree with those who suggest the percentage should be based on the absolute scale. But it doesn't matter for heat flow, which is only dependent on the difference in temperature. Q=kΔT.
I estimated the actual R values, taking into account the R value of the door itself (Δ20°F). I get the following, normalized to R5 Formular. (Estimate is +/- 10%.)
Door Δ20°F - R1.7
Silver reflector Δ55°F - R2.8
Gap filler foam Δ57°F - R2.9
R8 FG Δ61°F - R3.1
2" Rigid Foam Δ77°F - R4.0
R5 Formular Δ97°F - R5.0
DIY Fred Δ100°F - R5.2
I think the most interesting question is why the R8 fiberglass performed so poorly. Possibly because it was pushed in collapsing the depth.
Thank you for this great video. I wonder how the combination of a layer of foil bubble wrap and 1" pink foam would work. Not too expensive and light enough. If the foil ran top-to-bottom on the garage side of the pink foam, it'd help with heat transfer at the hinged seams too. The two combined might be a great bang for the buck.
This is super helpful! Do you hand any ideas of hire you’re going to cover the insulation?
Thanks so much for the video. How did you install the purple NGX panels? Thanks
Super helpful!
thank you for taking the time to do this experiment. I dont have a lot of 170 degree days where I live. I don't understand the rationale behind the experiment, why not just use direct sunlight? Also insulation in a garage might also be used to keep it warm. I don't believe reflective material insulates as well from cold as it does from radiant heat.
Tom's Key rocks! Turns out we have a mutual friend :) Mike is my brother-in-law. Great video. I purchased a roll of the double reflective insulation but haven't installed it yet. Bought before watching your video. Looks like it will definitely make a difference for cheap. Interested to see the results this summer. You have a new subscriber.
After watching this i was about to go get some OC Foamular boards for my garage but luckily did some quick research. Owens Corning warns against using their boards in this manner because they are combustible and require a thermal barrier. I hope you put up a disclaimer.
Hell yes! Thank you Mr. Perfect, for making This video
Great content on all videos
EXCELLENT JOB!
Thank you kindly! Glad you liked it.
Wow that is a lot of effort,impressive
Cool experiment but to be honest I would like to see a more controled experiment done inside so the varibles such as lighting and heat can actually be controled. The pannels should also be verticle so each pannel gets the same amount of heat and I would say at least a 2 foot buffer zone from the corners as well. Sit the heaters inside at a certain temp then take your readings from outside.
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For the panels with a reflective side, it makes a difference which way you orient the reflective side. Face in if you want to keep heat in, face out if you want to keep heat out. The insulated cells could be extra effective for climates that expirience hot and cold extreemes as you could make one side face out and one side face in. Just a thought.
Good video. Thank you. I know which one I am going to use.
Great video, thanks.
Thank you!
I don't know how long you had the heater on the outside spot but I think the real test, which would be pretty hard to do, is eight hours in the heat.
That would be good to try, yeah. There are many ways to improve this test, like testing it on a south facing garage door in Las Vegas in July as well as an extreme cold test. I feel like this gave me a good idea at least, so it's a start.
did you try the ridged foam with the reflective foil on one side and a small air gap with the door?
i will be insulating my door with the purple foam and thin reflective ridged foam next month.
great video keep up the good work
The formular looks the best as well as being the fastest, so if you add the double reflective behind it against the door you'd probably have the best combo.
Just buy a winterized insulated garage door and then add a layer of rigid foam on your own. Amazing results! In your case you and also use a foam friendly construction adhesive to adhere another inch or more of rigid foam formular to each panel YIU already filled with formular.
Helpful! Subscribed (:
When comparing the percentages.. though the double bubble is the worst.. still not far off. When comparing percents.
That custom insulation is interesting.
*This is excellent information! I've been searching for something like this for about a month now, and I'm delighted to see a study that compares various insulation options. I'm currently in the process of insulating my garage, and I believe this study will provide valuable insights to anyone undertaking a similar project. Thank you for sharing this valuable research!*
Any thoughts to maybe checking how well the garage door manufacturers insulation works? Pretty affordable. Made for the doors, and look like it is supposed to be there. 5 of your 6 options actually call for different springs than a non insulated door torsion system. I get what you are trying to do, but you will cost the viewer more money by not knowing what IPPT is and how its calculated.
Thank you