Chem Dip is usually used for soaking carburetors, and there's some things about is. What you are showing here looks to be the "add to" can. It's for the 5gal Dip Bucket (w/parts basket). Reason I bring this up, is the 5gal bucket only has about 25% of the actual Chemical in it. The top part 75% of the bucket is oil that floats on top to keep it from evaporating. The "add-to" can that you have there is about 75% Chem & 25% (anti-evap) Oil. If you pour the stuff from the top of either of these, it won't do much (because it's just oil) you have to pull the stuff from the bottom to get the "good stuff". The "good stuff" hiding in the bottom of these, actually eats metals. Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black. Also you have to Neutralize it when you pull it out of the "Dip" buy washing it all with HOT water, other wise it will etch itself into the aluminum. It's why our wash basin is near the Carburetor bench in the shop, so we can pull a carb out and immediately scrub it down with hot water. That all being said, be very careful with this stuff. Even with full PPE on, and thick rubber sleeved gloves, when I do a Carburetor I smell like carb cleaner for a couple days, and it turns your pee pink. It absorbs into anything made of Carbon, and we all are Carbon Based Lifeforms.
" Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black". Yep, learned that the hard way back in 1980. Tough lesson for a 16 year old buying his own parts LOL.
Good to know on the safety side. I’m usually pretty brazen with the chemicals except for MEK, gas & methanol, turps…some things scare me enough to make sure I’m well protected. Gas is one most people don’t even bother with, but get enough of that shit soaking into your skin or breathing it in…not good. It’s probably less the fuel itself and more the additives, but regardless, I quit using it to clean shit a long time ago.
The best thing to clean carbon is dot 4 brake fluid. Leave it to soak for about 20 minutes and wipe it away with a cloth. Brings up piston crowns like new.
What would happen if you would put a Couple of ounces into the Gas Tank. Or is Marvel Oil Better to Clean the top Pistons without Disassembling the Engine.
Oh trust me this product does remove carbon ! Very toxic shit you do not want to leave on your skin or your skin will blister if left on too long I had that happen
I’m a marine engineer. I’ve been using brake fluid for years . I’ve brought old engines back by putting a few ounce’s down the spark plug holes and letting it sit overnight. On 350 chevy marine engine wouldn’t start due to lack of compression and after one treatment it started right up and ran fine.
Yeah, we were doing this back in the 70’s using the 25gal. Drums of chemical, we called it cold tanking or cold dip as opposed to the hot tank we used for steel and iron. So, it’s not really an experiment, it’s a well established practice.
Yeah see, back in the 70s there was all sorts of fun chemical stuff nobody really thought much about touching and inhaling that did a great job, but there’s this thing we have nowadays that everybody from that era seems to have, it’s called cancer...
That was informational AND entertaining. Its amazing how many ppl make comments about things u said u would be addressing in a later video. I gave a thumbs up. Then i took my wife's phone and rewatched it with another 👍! You deserve more subs for the work u put in.
Full strength Simple Green works for carbon removal. Over night soak and 90% of the baked on carbon wipes off with a rag. Stubborn carbon may need a second soaking to remove. Simple Green is cheap from Big Box Stores and is safe to use. I have used Simple Green on several engine heads and pistons with good results.
@@falsem1nd use Simple Green HD (the purple one) if you use it on aluminum. I just used it this weekend for my aluminum LS cylinder heads and I let it sit in there for six hours, took it out to brush them down, then rinse and repeat that step 4 or so times. A day later, they're almost like 90%+ clean.
That Berryman is very potent. I run the fuel injector gas treatment in my car. It had a tiny amount of liquid on the bottom of the can. I set the can on my trunk for less than a minute. Ate through the clear coat and paint.. Imagine how well it cleans the injectors.
Yo guys, just use Easy Off oven cleaner. Carbon comes off with a wipe if you leave for 5 min. Don’t waste your money on this Chem-Dip stuff. Legit cheaper.
Chem-Dip has phosphoric acid in it... That's why the 4 hour limit on soaking aluminum parts. Unless you want to etch or destroy thin aluminum part sections. Always wash Chem-Dip off with water to dilute and remove it from the surface. It will continue to eat aluminum surfaces if just wiped off.
I looked up the Chem-dip MSDS - it contains no acids, phosphoric or otherwise. As expected, it is caustic (pH 10-11), which is why you can't leave it on aluminum too long.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Chem-Dip, Tyme, and Gunk have all changed their formulas over the last dozen years or so. Thank California's Proposition 65 for that. The old stuff worked much better....but wasn't up to California standards and the manufacturers would rather make just one product instead of two. If the current stuff only works part way, it's guaranteed you'll buy more of it to get the job done. Be it a base or an acid, it's rough on aluminum. I stand corrected.......
Next time you need to clean carbon, try dot 4 brake fluid. Put it on a cloth and start wiping. It immediately starts melting carbon. No soaking required
I used to have a very precious man do all the valve jobs in my aluminum heads he would put the heads in a big tank of carburetor cleaner and they will come out like brand new the only man I trusted with doing valve jobs and all my aluminum stuff back in the day lot of Fiats with burnt exhaust valves actually made a special l Socket wrench just to torque the head bolts without taking a cam tower off
Lightning Cleaner is what I found unreal for removing baked on carbon the VW cylinder head in a water mixture (1:1)soaking for 8hrs then rinsed it off with tap water (no scrubbing) for a bright shiny finish.
Some chemicals can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" in aluminum, this could be why the company does not want the product left on too long. We had problems in the Air Force with some chemical cleaner / degreasers that were not approved by the manufacturer used on our F-16's and had to have some skin removed and replaced.
Seriously Thank You for Your Service to our County its Super Appreciated!! Unfortunately in many cases UNDER APPRECIATED by the media! BUT THANK YOU!! Could you provide a bit more in the details? Nothing that would get you in trouble but im curious. Thanks Again! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
It *can* etch certain aluminum parts if left in too long as it says on the can; however I have left small carburetors in it for a week with no effect other than super clean.
Had A 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6 cylinder engine and from the travel to work or home again (about five miles) it would "PING" like crazy. Finally pulled the head off and every piston had a layer of fuzzy black carbon. Had I had this stuff you showed I would of used it. Instead of working for a weekend to remove the carbon and reseat all the valves and other seals and gaskets and adjustments. Really cool man what that stuff does.
Someone else has discovered my magic in a can. I knew about this stuff nearly 15 yrs ago when the can it was delivered in was white at least for the Gunk version, which are probably the same chemical with a different label. I put oil/carbon baked internal engine parts in it and let them sit over night and couldn't believe the as new cast appearance they came out with. Advance auto is where I get mine and usually they have a 25% off coupon floating around somewhere to sweeten the deal, especially now given how the price has increased by about $10 to $28. I would advise sparing use because of how expensive it is. Apply a smaller amount to soften build up on large parts like cylinder heads and use a cheap secondary cleaner and high pressure water spray to finish the job. You don't want to end up paying the same price for cleaning at home that it would cost to just drop the parts off at a shop. A good high pressure washer might do a very effective job and eliminate the use of chemicals altogether for this job and any future for the cost of the machine and low cost for water as the cleaning solution. Another old time favorite for removing a lot of the crud is Easy Off oven cleaner, just be careful not to use it on aluminum with delicate surfaces (cylinder heads, alum blocks) that need microscopic smoothness.
there is a mild version of easy off i use.. but for the hard baked on stuff & on cast iron i use tergo industrial paint stripper... just not on ali gasket surfaces
For BEST results, use MR CLEAN (the bright GREEN type, and NOT the light Blue type)! Just SOAK OVERNIGHT and hose off next day. Best thing is, Mr CLEAN will NOT DAMAGE metal or rubber parts like the valve stem seals or rubber gaskets. Best product I have ever used .
Really? So the heat and pressure inside the cylinders is no stronger than gravity acting on a little liquid? Horse apples. That seal you are imagining is likely more carbon baked onto the valves & seats. Reinvent something else, 'cause this wheel has been done.
Thank you, next time I have ot do this to a head I know what works best. I used carb cleaner in a spray can. I pokes a hole in the can and drained it out and poured it into the head area and let is soak over night. The next morning I used a tooth brush and clean it and like you had a clean head. Your method looks like it did a better job over all with less scrubbing.
Retired 40 years heavy const. equipment, heavy carbon build up in exhaust area soak heads in old 50/50 mix antifreeze loosens heavy carbon to chunks that washes away w/ steam or high pressure washer. Try it with a exhaust valve see what u think. Clean parts well and lube well w. oil. Antifreeze not good so cleaning is important but you were going to clean and lube your parts anyway, right? I have not ever lost any engines by doing this. Do not let your cat or dog lick the parts, poison LOL.
I've been using Chemdip since the early 80's to clean gunked-up carbs. Great stuff that had a very unique smell. I haven't found anything that works as fast or as good as that stuff.
@@a.m.7060 Thanks, one day I will try it. For cleaning an engine that isn't disassembled and still runs I use some stuff called Kreen Motor Tonic by Kano Labs. You add some to the gas & oil and it dissolves carbon, gunk, the varnish from the rings, and cleans the entire fuel system. It can be used on cars, boats, motorcycles, aircraft, or any gas or diesel engine. I used it in an engine that had to be rebuilt after 50,000 miles and it was remarkably clean internally. It's way better than Sea Foam or any other similar product. See: www.kroil.com/order-kroil-products/
Hey Thanks for the Tip! It's Super Appreciated. Kroil seriously sells a lot of Great sounding products!!! Somewhat unfortunately I can't just run-up to my local auto parts store I'll have to order it as its not sold in my local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. You'd think a company thats been around since the late 1930's selling chems for auto repair shops would be in ever Auto Parts store but than again there are not a lot of Rolls-Royce dealerships everywhere. Thinking about it Rolls-Royce was a fantastic auto manufacturer they need to go back to making thier own drive-trains again with a bit of BMW'S performance influence. Thanks again Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
There are 2 grades of Chem Dip. Standard and Professional. You know you have the good stuff if it makes your shop wreak forever, the other doesn't do much.
Since the head is off, why not just disassemble it (remove valves) and clean it entirely? I think you'll find significant carbon under the valve heads and/or in the intake/exhaust ports, especially if that engine is is direct injected. With the head disassembled, you'll also have access to inspect for any valve, valve seat or valve guide wear, as well as the head sealing surface for flatness.
I've been using this stuff for 30+ years and it's awesome stuff. There's no real need to scrub but I've found it works best when it's around 100 to 110 degrees F. It removes carbon, grease, paint, etc. About the only thing it won't remove is rust or corrosion. One caveat; the "environmentally friendly" Chem Dip is much less effective. The good stuff comes in a 5 gallon bucket and comes with a parts basket.
Simple green... That's all you need. I mix it 4 to 1 with water. If you soak your parts overnight then rinse with strong water pressure everything looks new. Non corrosive and very mild on your hands..
U should always stuff ur piston skirts w rags, or and nvr alloww them to bang off the rod as it could start a stress crack and lead to a catastrophic failure in which ur puzzled by what what wrong.... just a tip from an old man
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for engine parts. I only use water with a little dish soap for a few reasons. 1 being as far as ur every day degreasers go I’ve tried them all none worked any faster or better. 2 When you use chemicals they can damage coatings on the pistons, the valve seals and some are bad for aluminum. 3 You can buy some chemicals/cleaners made for ultrasonic cleaning that will clean faster but they are expensive and the water cleans just as good so a part that takes 30 minutes with good chemicals might take 90 minutes. But if ur not using it every day no sense in using anything but water I mean for under a few hundred bucks you buy the machine then dont need to buy anymore chemicals again for cleaning.
3m throttle body and carb cleaner works way faster and honestly better. Maybe a little more expensive but you can move to the next step instead of waiting hours. That's a pro tech tip kids.
its a good sign when the chemical doesn't drain out right away too, that is a nice engine to rebuild. I don't know a whole lot, but the fact those valves still seal tightly even carbon coated is a good thing. Honda power :-)
The warning is made due to linings and (aluminum hydrogen enbattlement. never soak aluminum long in it.)that may be present since it's a parts cleaner not a specific internal or external motor parts cleaner. You don't want to clean carburetor internal parts with it. Per my brother who was a mechanic before his death in 2010. He taught what I do know about motors. He worked on everything from cars, tractors to diesel trucks for 40 yrs. He was fascinated by modern motors and electronics. Always learning new technologies. That I know of there was nothing that guy could not do. I sure miss him working on my vehicles.. the man was a genius with motors. Love your videos. If you bought it a truck driver delivered it. Happy 2022 to you and yours.😁
The carbon on the exhaust valve gets a lot hotter, and will turn to "glass", same thing that cause "splash fouling "of plugs when an engine is run at high speed after carbon build up. Probably need to chip it off.
You sir are a genius! Walnut blasting intake valves is ridiculous. There has to be a "solution" for this god awful procedure which my chevy dealers in town have no idea about but sell gdi cars. My cobalt ss turbo needs intake valve cleaning desperately. I am going to try this. THANK YOU! I will let you know how it works.
I use to disassemble and throw the whole bare head in a 5gal bucket and go to lunch, hour later I come back and pull them out and took a power washer to them. Makes heads look like brand new every time. Now days the shit is to expensive to buy like that. Purple industrial cleaner from lowes will clean them up, but you cant let it sit on the aluminum to long, it will eat it.
o•tor mō′tər ► n. Something, such as a machine or an engine, that produces or imparts motion. n. A device that converts any form of energy into mechanical energy, especially an internal-combustion engine or an arrangement of coils and magnets that converts electric current into mechanical power. n. A motor vehicle, especially an automobile
Aluminum and Brass can literally disolve in Acidic Solutions like this. That's why you have to keep it under 4 hrs. Our Machine shop does the same with Acid Bath, but Iron motor blocks can stay in a lot longer
If this was like the can of Gunk parts dip I bought 20 years ago, you wouldn't be leaving it sitting out in the open. The smell would drive you out of the shop (heavy creosote smell). You dropped what ever you wanted in the basket, and closed the lid as quickly as possible. If any splashed on your skin, be prepared for it to stink for the next 2 days.
The 4 hours or less time limit for aluminum is so they take no damage. In the old days at engine shop if you acid dipped aluminum head for more then an hour no need to retrieve it because it will dissolve away. yes it will melt into liquid with the right chemicals over time. so dont do this is you are tired cause if you fall asleep and leave it on to long you got parts to buy.
Great video. Word to the wise, those blue gloves are not chemical resistant. That stuff has some nasty chemicals that will absorb through your skin and into your bloodstream, even through those gloves. Be careful about that.
Great Tip!! Any suggestions on shop gloves? I've seen my mechanic using black looking latex gloves but just figured it was just a different color of glove.
The Berryman B-12 Chemtool is good- see the Project Farm comparison videos. It made the spark plugs look the cleanest when added to the gasoline, compared to the others.
I'll seriously check out the video your suggesting as I just bought a 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 93k and dealer serviced. If im say running to my local 7-11 during the night and punch it with a vehicle behind me I see a lot of carbon blowing out. I was thinking of using my favorite goto Seafoam spray to fog the intake and valves as its helped my other trucks and cars. Can this be sprayed into the intake like Seafoam spray top engine cleaner? Thanks for any advice its super appreciated! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@eddiej.2354 SeaFoam isn't a very good solvent, but it does one thing very well, soften the carbon at the valve faces. Berryman's B12 isn't intended as an induction solvent. B12 is far superior for dissolving carbon, however, but I wouldn't try it as an induced one.
It’s been awhile since I’ve used Berryman but i think it might say since 1928 on the can. Very aggressive stuff. It says don’t get it on your paint and I’ve learned the hard way to take great care as to not let this stuff get on your paint. Lol. Great video and nice project.
Paint reducer or "grow" wax and grease remover also removes it fast, dont even have to soak it for a while, just scrub it with a brass brush, and everything is clean within minutes.. I just built an f23, and currently also building an f22 like you.haha
Oh yes remember that beautiful gasoline when it was pink full of lead and octane cleaned many many car parts with gasoline back in the Day love the smell of that pink gasoline...
Back in the ‘70s EVERYONE rebuilt engines or swapped ! I got my azzzz whooped because I always found the oil drain bucket or the engine cleaning tub ! NEVER FAILED ! About 2005ish I was in a private parking lot some guy blew out transmission fluid everywhere THE PLACE CALLED A “HAZMAT TEAM “! That was a little much!
If you have a few days to clean it, wd 40 every 6 or 10 hours just spray more on it. After 5 or 6 Days the stuff will look brand new. You don't even have to scrub it. Just keep adding wd 40. Idk why it works but it just dissolves carbon and it disappears. I just did a 302 and the pistons were caked and pitch black. I did this for 3 days and they are now shiny like new and scrubbing them with steel wool the first day didn't even get through the first layer of buildup. I'm be don't this method with my shit forever now. It was effortless.
I use B12 every 6th or so tank full in my 99 Camry 5S-FE 2.2l with currently 150k on the clock. B12 Chemtool is part of my car's monthly maintenance. At $3.50 a can, it provides the internal cleaning that probably isn't being done by the cheap gas I use. IOW, I'd rather pay to know what's cleaning the internal parts of my engine than some lie about some unproven cleaner package in my cheap gasoline. IMHO, this is the secret to getting super high miles out of a port-injection 4 banger Toyota engine. Well, this type of high miles is what I've gotten out of all my Toyota engines using this or a very similar method. Continually keeping it clean internally. And yes, I do use good synthetic oil and have an oil catch can to keep the engine from swallowing it's own poop.
Berryman makes a product called B12 Chemtool. I put 1 can in my 98 k1500 5.7 vortec, every other tank full of 90 octane 0 ethanol. Cleans carbon on valves pistons and injectors. Purrs like a kitten.
If you heat it up it works better. Not boiling hot just warm enough touch. Used this for all carb rebuilds and Exhaust brake butterfly's that were sized up.The youth trying to claim what has already been long ago used.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this product. I guess some of these juvenile posters should make a video and post if they know it all already ;) and we'll watch their vids :)
The solvent breaks down aluminum. I once forgot a rack of MC carbs in a Saftety Klean tank (about 30 years ago) overnite and they were brittle as hell the next morning.
@@mfree80286 Funny you mention that. I am doing zinc plating on a bunch of old motorcycle parts and have a lye solution for removing grease before plating. I put a wheel spacer into the lye and forgot about it for a week and it was totally deteriorated. Now I need to find one and its for a vintage bike.
Coat hanger and spray carb cleaner is all you need for most clogged egr ports. Ford 4.2L truck engine you have to remove the plenum. For 4.6 and 5.4 a 9/16 drill bit works nice to dig out what you poke out of the egr holes in the elbow.
Even better than chem dip is Permatex Spray-On gasket remover. Smells kind of strong from what I remember, but still better than ez-off. Permatex Spray-On gasket remover, I promise.
I use chem dip all the time. I rebuild motorcycle and ATV motors and some are really carboned up. I use the original formula, not the California stuff. It’s smells NASTY , but man does it clean carbon and carbs. Soak a head over night and nearly all the carbon just washes off. It is some toxic stuff though , so use gloves and avoid breathing it as much as possible. I would NOT recommend using it in an attached garage without having the door open and a fan blowing out. The smell will cling to your clothes too. The stuff here is the California formula, it works, not as well, but it’s less toxic.
The reason they say 4 hours is it will begin to deteriorate the aluminum. A friend used a can I had to clean his motorcycle carb. Forgot about it for 4 days. Was nothing left but a small piece the main body. Turned it to dust.
This is to be used in a sealed container. Read the can. I know many men that have died of terrible painful cancers that used it like a religion. Get Rubbermaid sealed top containers. Then follow with water bath and then a bath of kerosene and all on homemade vibration table made with a electric da sander. Its like ultrasonics. I use a liquid that is heated called “turko” for upto a two hours then water wash followed by phosphoric acid for a max of two minutes, followed by water wash and then burunell cleaner followed water wash and 200 degree dry oven.(repair helicopter parts) FAA and manufacture approved process.
It's not that the aluminum has any kind of coating on it. It's that some chemicals, especially acidic ones, can dissolve aluminum, causing pits in the part. Too, electrolysis (a battery-like action) can occur between dissimilar metals such as aluminum and steel just from having pure water between them. If allowed to continue, it will eventually perforate the aluminum. I've seen that. Some chemicals intensify electrolysis, others, like antifreeze, inhibit it. Chorine bleach will eat holes in a stainless steel sink. I've seen that, too. That's, most likely, the reason for the four hour time limit.
I Agree 100% It's like the original version of Cascade dishwasher powder from earlier then the 1995 or 2000 till someone at Cascade changed the formula it was AWESOME on any aluminum bake ware like my toaster over tray. It would come out almost new looking but again since someone at P&G / Cascade changed the formula now that same tray or any aluminum tray or pot comes out of the dishwasher looking like someone sprayed black primer paint on it and extremely dull looking. Hopefully the Chem he used to clean the carbon off the heads are not like Cascade case he will see pitting eventually on the parts. Yes, I like to cook lol Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Look for a shop with ultrasonic cleaning machine and you will save a lot of money, time and effort; and you will save a little bit more the environment, I used to clean with those products until I discovered a shop with ultrasonic cleaning machine (in the other side of the city but it worth) and in one hour like new and shiny. If the aluminum parts are mate finish, means that the solution attacked the structure, remember that aluminum in quite porous. I have seen many engine heads with problems after cleaned with those acid or non-alkaline solutions. Just my experience.
Maybe it was my 22 years as a Navy Machinist, but I want to slap you upside....Just do it right. Disassemble completely, then clean & inspect. For what it costs (and potentially saves in the end) at least send the block to a machine shop to be cleaned and inspected properly. A partial rebuild is a waste of time and money.
Chem Dip is usually used for soaking carburetors, and there's some things about is. What you are showing here looks to be the "add to" can. It's for the 5gal Dip Bucket (w/parts basket). Reason I bring this up, is the 5gal bucket only has about 25% of the actual Chemical in it. The top part 75% of the bucket is oil that floats on top to keep it from evaporating. The "add-to" can that you have there is about 75% Chem & 25% (anti-evap) Oil. If you pour the stuff from the top of either of these, it won't do much (because it's just oil) you have to pull the stuff from the bottom to get the "good stuff".
The "good stuff" hiding in the bottom of these, actually eats metals. Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black. Also you have to Neutralize it when you pull it out of the "Dip" buy washing it all with HOT water, other wise it will etch itself into the aluminum. It's why our wash basin is near the Carburetor bench in the shop, so we can pull a carb out and immediately scrub it down with hot water.
That all being said, be very careful with this stuff. Even with full PPE on, and thick rubber sleeved gloves, when I do a Carburetor I smell like carb cleaner for a couple days, and it turns your pee pink. It absorbs into anything made of Carbon, and we all are Carbon Based Lifeforms.
" Leave it in there long enough and it starts to eat away the aluminum turning it black". Yep, learned that the hard way back in 1980. Tough lesson for a 16 year old buying his own parts LOL.
Thanks!
👍🏼😊👍🏼
I wouldn't have known..🤔
Good to know on the safety side. I’m usually pretty brazen with the chemicals except for MEK, gas & methanol, turps…some things scare me enough to make sure I’m well protected. Gas is one most people don’t even bother with, but get enough of that shit soaking into your skin or breathing it in…not good. It’s probably less the fuel itself and more the additives, but regardless, I quit using it to clean shit a long time ago.
I was reading the website and yes the smaller gallon cans are worse for Aluminum....and to the Pink Pee....Hell NO! Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you for the advice. Very helpful!
I’m 56 years old it’s great to see the younger generation learning what I learned when I was 17..You guys do eventually figure it out
@@antoniononame3037 what’s your problem?
@@antoniononame3037 you need to see a shrink for those anger problems
@@antoniononame3037 the young generation don't know manners
@@BlueRice And can’t spell or write coherently.
@@antoniononame3037 Ignorant that’s what u are 100%
The best thing to clean carbon is dot 4 brake fluid. Leave it to soak for about 20 minutes and wipe it away with a cloth. Brings up piston crowns like new.
Thanks, I'll have to try that
What would happen if you would put a Couple of ounces into the Gas Tank.
Or is Marvel Oil Better to Clean the top Pistons without Disassembling the Engine.
@@MB1Billion wouldn't hurt
Really? Wow gotta learn how to open the top engine and gotta try that
Dave Leighton, thanks for the tip!
Thanks for sharing since i no longer trust product adverts or their claims
Oh trust me this product does remove carbon ! Very toxic shit you do not want to leave on your skin or your skin will blister if left on too long I had that happen
I’m a marine engineer. I’ve been using brake fluid for years . I’ve brought old engines back by putting a few ounce’s down the spark plug holes and letting it sit overnight. On 350 chevy marine engine wouldn’t start due to lack of compression and after one treatment it started right up and ran fine.
Yeah, we were doing this back in the 70’s using the 25gal. Drums of chemical, we called it cold tanking or cold dip as opposed to the hot tank we used for steel and iron. So, it’s not really an experiment, it’s a well established practice.
Just because you did it does not mean it's a well established practice
Dude is right been common practice by mechanics for years
@@jamesdodson9417 lmfao me barely learning how it works on a small one cylinder engine😂😂(not a car engine a motorcycle engine..)
Yeah see, back in the 70s there was all sorts of fun chemical stuff nobody really thought much about touching and inhaling that did a great job, but there’s this thing we have nowadays that everybody from that era seems to have, it’s called cancer...
That was informational AND entertaining. Its amazing how many ppl make comments about things u said u would be addressing in a later video. I gave a thumbs up. Then i took my wife's phone and rewatched it with another 👍! You deserve more subs for the work u put in.
Thank you!!
That also checks for bent valves as it cleans. If you come back to it and 1 chamber is a lot lower than it was, there you go.
Bent valves is an unlikely cause of combustion chamber leak. More likely the valve to valve face seal needs to be corrected.
Full strength Simple Green works for carbon removal. Over night soak and 90% of the baked on carbon wipes off with a rag. Stubborn carbon may need a second soaking to remove. Simple Green is cheap from Big Box Stores and is safe to use. I have used Simple Green on several engine heads and pistons with good results.
can you do a piston soak with it? Does it corrode the aluminum, darkens it, if you leave it on for a while, let's say, overnight?
@@falsem1nd use Simple Green HD (the purple one) if you use it on aluminum. I just used it this weekend for my aluminum LS cylinder heads and I let it sit in there for six hours, took it out to brush them down, then rinse and repeat that step 4 or so times. A day later, they're almost like 90%+ clean.
That Berryman is very potent. I run the fuel injector gas treatment in my car. It had a tiny amount of liquid on the bottom of the can. I set the can on my trunk for less than a minute. Ate through the clear coat and paint..
Imagine how well it cleans the injectors.
…and strips the lining from the gas tank.
Yo guys, just use Easy Off oven cleaner. Carbon comes off with a wipe if you leave for 5 min. Don’t waste your money on this Chem-Dip stuff. Legit cheaper.
Chem-Dip has phosphoric acid in it... That's why the 4 hour limit on soaking aluminum parts. Unless you want to etch or destroy thin aluminum part sections. Always wash Chem-Dip off with water to dilute and remove it from the surface. It will continue to eat aluminum surfaces if just wiped off.
SPOT ON
Flush out the water jackets the chem-dip went into also rinse the whole head with a garden hose to stop the chemical reaction.
I looked up the Chem-dip MSDS - it contains no acids, phosphoric or otherwise. As expected, it is caustic (pH 10-11), which is why you can't leave it on aluminum too long.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Chem-Dip, Tyme, and Gunk have all changed their formulas over the last dozen years or so. Thank California's Proposition 65 for that. The old stuff worked much better....but wasn't up to California standards and the manufacturers would rather make just one product instead of two. If the current stuff only works part way, it's guaranteed you'll buy more of it to get the job done. Be it a base or an acid, it's rough on aluminum. I stand corrected.......
Incorrect! www.berrymanproducts.com/assets/CD-A-Int-0996-R01.pdf
Next time you need to clean carbon, try dot 4 brake fluid. Put it on a cloth and start wiping. It immediately starts melting carbon. No soaking required
no kiddin? have to try that next time i've got a engine appart, Cheers!
What is dot 4 brake fluid?
Any pictures?
I have a burned pot. I can test on it. :)
I used to have a very precious man do all the valve jobs in my aluminum heads he would put the heads in a big tank of carburetor cleaner and they will come out like brand new the only man I trusted with doing valve jobs and all my aluminum stuff back in the day lot of Fiats with burnt exhaust valves actually made a special l
Socket wrench just to torque the head bolts without taking a cam tower off
Lightning Cleaner is what I found unreal for removing baked on carbon the VW cylinder head in a water mixture (1:1)soaking for 8hrs then rinsed it off with tap water (no scrubbing) for a bright shiny finish.
Hey Thanks for the tip! Is that the name of the product you used? As I've never heard of it? Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Am about to do my vw too 😮
Some chemicals can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" in aluminum, this could be why the company does not want the product left on too long. We had problems in the Air Force with some chemical cleaner / degreasers that were not approved by the manufacturer used on our F-16's and had to have some skin removed and replaced.
Seriously Thank You for Your Service to our County its Super Appreciated!! Unfortunately in many cases UNDER APPRECIATED by the media! BUT THANK YOU!!
Could you provide a bit more in the details? Nothing that would get you in trouble but im curious. Thanks Again! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
It *can* etch certain aluminum parts if left in too long as it says on the can; however I have left small carburetors in it for a week with no effect other than super clean.
-- Well explained. Did this 20 years ago with my tractor.
Had A 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6 cylinder engine and from the travel to work or home again (about five miles) it would "PING" like crazy. Finally pulled the head off and every piston had a layer of fuzzy black carbon. Had I had this stuff you showed I would of used it. Instead of working for a weekend to remove the carbon and reseat all the valves and other seals and gaskets and adjustments. Really cool man what that stuff does.
I have used Berrymans Chem Dip for years. The stuff works great. Sea foam works too with brushing and a longer soak time.
will kerosene clean egr carbon if I let it soak 24h
“Easy off” oven cleaner.
@@ross_ulbright7779 but don’t use oven cleaner on aluminum it will ruin it and the corrosion will never stop
@@richardcrouse9074what’s suitable for thick carbon on aluminium
@@aqib2000 My best thought is media blasting
Someone else has discovered my magic in a can. I knew about this stuff nearly 15 yrs ago when the can it was delivered in was white at least for the Gunk version, which are probably the same chemical with a different label. I put oil/carbon baked internal engine parts in it and let them sit over night and couldn't believe the as new cast appearance they came out with. Advance auto is where I get mine and usually they have a 25% off coupon floating around somewhere to sweeten the deal, especially now given how the price has increased by about $10 to $28. I would advise sparing use because of how expensive it is. Apply a smaller amount to soften build up on large parts like cylinder heads and use a cheap secondary cleaner and high pressure water spray to finish the job. You don't want to end up paying the same price for cleaning at home that it would cost to just drop the parts off at a shop. A good high pressure washer might do a very effective job and eliminate the use of chemicals altogether for this job and any future for the cost of the machine and low cost for water as the cleaning solution. Another old time favorite for removing a lot of the crud is Easy Off oven cleaner, just be careful not to use it on aluminum with delicate surfaces (cylinder heads, alum blocks) that need microscopic smoothness.
there is a mild version of easy off i use.. but for the hard baked on stuff & on cast iron i use tergo industrial paint stripper... just not on ali gasket surfaces
Yeah, it works but its absolutely noxious.
Thanks a lot for all this great info.
For BEST results, use MR CLEAN (the bright GREEN type, and NOT the light Blue type)! Just SOAK OVERNIGHT and hose off next day. Best thing is, Mr CLEAN will NOT DAMAGE metal or rubber parts like the valve stem seals or rubber gaskets. Best product I have ever used .
A lot of beer kegs.. my best problem solving came at the bottom of kegs as well. It’s good to see honestly.
Hey Looks good. It looks like the valves are seating otherwise the liquid would have leaked out. Nice job Nice tutorial video
Really? So the heat and pressure inside the cylinders is no stronger than gravity acting on a little liquid? Horse apples. That seal you are imagining is likely more carbon baked onto the valves & seats. Reinvent something else, 'cause this wheel has been done.
Yep!
......yes, it's a good sign. Things may change slightly though with temperature change .
Thank you, next time I have ot do this to a head I know what works best. I used carb cleaner in a spray can. I pokes a hole in the can and drained it out and poured it into the head area and let is soak over night. The next morning I used a tooth brush and clean it and like you had a clean head. Your method looks like it did a better job over all with less scrubbing.
Retired 40 years heavy const. equipment, heavy carbon build up in exhaust area soak heads in old 50/50 mix antifreeze loosens heavy carbon to chunks that washes away w/ steam or high pressure washer. Try it with a exhaust valve see what u think. Clean parts well and lube well w. oil. Antifreeze not good so cleaning is important but you were going to clean and lube your parts anyway, right? I have not ever lost any engines by doing this. Do not let your cat or dog lick the parts, poison LOL.
I've been using Chemdip since the early 80's to clean gunked-up carbs. Great stuff that had a very unique smell. I haven't found anything that works as fast or as good as that stuff.
Easy Off would probably do better. I used it myself and took the carbon off my pistons in 5-10mins.
@@a.m.7060 Thanks, one day I will try it. For cleaning an engine that isn't disassembled and still runs I use some stuff called Kreen Motor Tonic by Kano Labs. You add some to the gas & oil and it dissolves carbon, gunk, the varnish from the rings, and cleans the entire fuel system. It can be used on cars, boats, motorcycles, aircraft, or any gas or diesel engine. I used it in an engine that had to be rebuilt after 50,000 miles and it was remarkably clean internally. It's way better than Sea Foam or any other similar product. See: www.kroil.com/order-kroil-products/
@@kst357 Dang, I’ll try that too.
Hey Thanks for the Tip! It's Super Appreciated. Kroil seriously sells a lot of Great sounding products!!! Somewhat unfortunately I can't just run-up to my local auto parts store I'll have to order it as its not sold in my local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. You'd think a company thats been around since the late 1930's selling chems for auto repair shops would be in ever Auto Parts store but than again there are not a lot of Rolls-Royce dealerships everywhere. Thinking about it Rolls-Royce was a fantastic auto manufacturer they need to go back to making thier own drive-trains again with a bit of BMW'S performance influence. Thanks again Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@kst357 Kano products are so expensive but they are worth the cost. I just can't spend the money on a "tool" I will only use once a year.
There are 2 grades of Chem Dip. Standard and Professional. You know you have the good stuff if it makes your shop wreak forever, the other doesn't do much.
Kroil does the same thing.....the smell hangs around for days.
@@mikerieck306
YES it does! PB Blaster also tends to linger.
Since the head is off, why not just disassemble it (remove valves) and clean it entirely? I think you'll find significant carbon under the valve heads and/or in the intake/exhaust ports, especially if that engine is is direct injected. With the head disassembled, you'll also have access to inspect for any valve, valve seat or valve guide wear, as well as the head sealing surface for flatness.
Awesome Tip! Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Great job! I appreciate you taking the time and getting valuable information out there!
I used Chem-Dip on carburetors , soaked them over night , they were aluminum . It didn't harm them
whoa, great product, that was really clean. Thanks for posting this
I've been using this stuff for 30+ years and it's awesome stuff. There's no real need to scrub but I've found it works best when it's around 100 to 110 degrees F. It removes carbon, grease, paint, etc. About the only thing it won't remove is rust or corrosion. One caveat; the "environmentally friendly" Chem Dip is much less effective. The good stuff comes in a 5 gallon bucket and comes with a parts basket.
Simple green... That's all you need. I mix it 4 to 1 with water. If you soak your parts overnight then rinse with strong water pressure everything looks new. Non corrosive and very mild on your hands..
U should always stuff ur piston skirts w rags, or and nvr alloww them to bang off the rod as it could start a stress crack and lead to a catastrophic failure in which ur puzzled by what what wrong.... just a tip from an old man
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for engine parts. I only use water with a little dish soap for a few reasons. 1 being as far as ur every day degreasers go I’ve tried them all none worked any faster or better. 2 When you use chemicals they can damage coatings on the pistons, the valve seals and some are bad for aluminum. 3 You can buy some chemicals/cleaners made for ultrasonic cleaning that will clean faster but they are expensive and the water cleans just as good so a part that takes 30 minutes with good chemicals might take 90 minutes. But if ur not using it every day no sense in using anything but water I mean for under a few hundred bucks you buy the machine then dont need to buy anymore chemicals again for cleaning.
3m throttle body and carb cleaner works way faster and honestly better. Maybe a little more expensive but you can move to the next step instead of waiting hours. That's a pro tech tip kids.
steff k 3m will NOT REMOVE HARD CARBON FROM RINGS VALVES AND HEADS.
its a good sign when the chemical doesn't drain out right away too, that is a nice engine to rebuild. I don't know a whole lot, but the fact those valves still seal tightly even carbon coated is a good thing. Honda power :-)
The warning is made due to linings and (aluminum hydrogen enbattlement. never soak aluminum long in it.)that may be present since it's a parts cleaner not a specific internal or external motor parts cleaner. You don't want to clean carburetor internal parts with it. Per my brother who was a mechanic before his death in 2010. He taught what I do know about motors. He worked on everything from cars, tractors to diesel trucks for 40 yrs. He was fascinated by modern motors and electronics. Always learning new technologies. That I know of there was nothing that guy could not do. I sure miss him working on my vehicles.. the man was a genius with motors. Love your videos. If you bought it a truck driver delivered it. Happy 2022 to you and yours.😁
You just lost extra compression! LOL!
The carbon on the exhaust valve gets a lot hotter, and will turn to "glass", same thing that cause "splash fouling "of plugs when an engine is run at high speed after carbon build up. Probably need to chip it off.
For the big diesels we leave the pistone crown situng in a tub off water over night and the carbo comes off pretty easy
You sir are a genius! Walnut blasting intake valves is ridiculous. There has to be a "solution" for this god awful procedure which my chevy dealers in town have no idea about but sell gdi cars. My cobalt ss turbo needs intake valve cleaning desperately. I am going to try this. THANK YOU!
I will let you know how it works.
Wear gloves. It will dissolve you too.
Nice work, just what I was looking for. Have a great day.
You can tell this cat is young, no work table he's working off the floor.
haha ,he has no idea!!!
Fuck i feel you brothers
Yes his knees still work. lol
Hey, he has a work buckets! yeah as you get older you stop working on the ground.
Balonga! The older you get the more crap piles up on all your work surfaces. The only thing left is the floor!
I use to disassemble and throw the whole bare head in a 5gal bucket and go to lunch, hour later I come back and pull them out and took a power washer to them.
Makes heads look like brand new every time. Now days the shit is to expensive to buy like that. Purple industrial cleaner from lowes will clean them up, but you cant let it sit on the aluminum to long, it will eat it.
Great video, the only thing is it’s an engine!, and not a motor, a motor is electrical,, thanks for sharing your thoughts and great videos
o•tor mō′tər
►
n.
Something, such as a machine or an engine, that produces or imparts motion.
n.
A device that converts any form of energy into mechanical energy, especially an internal-combustion engine or an arrangement of coils and magnets that converts electric current into mechanical power.
n.
A motor vehicle, especially an automobile
Aluminum and Brass can literally disolve in Acidic Solutions like this. That's why you have to keep it under 4 hrs. Our Machine shop does the same with Acid Bath, but Iron motor blocks can stay in a lot longer
If this was like the can of Gunk parts dip I bought 20 years ago, you wouldn't be leaving it sitting out in the open. The smell would drive you out of the shop (heavy creosote smell). You dropped what ever you wanted in the basket, and closed the lid as quickly as possible. If any splashed on your skin, be prepared for it to stink for the next 2 days.
Cresylic acid, yes, smells like creosote. I've used chem dip and similar products for over 40 years. Absolutely fantastic when used correctly.
Can we add this to the engine oil
Looks great, excellent job.
I like the chem dip for rebuilding carburetors , it works well.
The 4 hours or less time limit for aluminum is so they take no damage. In the old days at engine shop if you acid dipped aluminum head for more then an hour no need to retrieve it because it will dissolve away. yes it will melt into liquid with the right chemicals over time. so dont do this is you are tired cause if you fall asleep and leave it on to long you got parts to buy.
Great video. Word to the wise, those blue gloves are not chemical resistant. That stuff has some nasty chemicals that will absorb through your skin and into your bloodstream, even through those gloves. Be careful about that.
Great Tip!! Any suggestions on shop gloves? I've seen my mechanic using black looking latex gloves but just figured it was just a different color of glove.
The Berryman B-12 Chemtool is good- see the Project Farm comparison videos. It made the spark plugs look the cleanest when added to the gasoline, compared to the others.
I'll seriously check out the video your suggesting as I just bought a 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 93k and dealer serviced. If im say running to my local 7-11 during the night and punch it with a vehicle behind me I see a lot of carbon blowing out. I was thinking of using my favorite goto Seafoam spray to fog the intake and valves as its helped my other trucks and cars. Can this be sprayed into the intake like Seafoam spray top engine cleaner? Thanks for any advice its super appreciated! Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
@@eddiej.2354 SeaFoam isn't a very good solvent, but it does one thing very well, soften the carbon at the valve faces. Berryman's B12 isn't intended as an induction solvent. B12 is far superior for dissolving carbon, however, but I wouldn't try it as an induced one.
It’s been awhile since I’ve used Berryman but i think it might say since 1928 on the can. Very aggressive stuff. It says don’t get it on your paint and I’ve learned the hard way to take great care as to not let this stuff get on your paint. Lol. Great video and nice project.
Paint reducer or "grow" wax and grease remover also removes it fast, dont even have to soak it for a while, just scrub it with a brass brush, and everything is clean within minutes..
I just built an f23, and currently also building an f22 like you.haha
chemdip is great,spray gasket remover works great on carbon deposits as well
Back in the day all we had was gasoline to clean everything.
Our napthagh that’s a class III carcinogen
Naphta
Nah, diesel works better than gas
Oh yes remember that beautiful gasoline when it was pink full of lead and octane cleaned many many car parts with gasoline back in the Day love the smell of that pink gasoline...
Back in the ‘70s EVERYONE rebuilt engines or swapped !
I got my azzzz whooped because I always found the oil drain bucket or the engine cleaning tub !
NEVER FAILED !
About 2005ish I was in a private parking lot some guy blew out transmission fluid everywhere
THE PLACE CALLED A
“HAZMAT TEAM “!
That was a little much!
News flash. Marvel Mystery Oil woks great as well. And bonus round, you can put it in your gas tank.
If you have a few days to clean it, wd 40 every 6 or 10 hours just spray more on it. After 5 or 6 Days the stuff will look brand new. You don't even have to scrub it. Just keep adding wd 40. Idk why it works but it just dissolves carbon and it disappears. I just did a 302 and the pistons were caked and pitch black. I did this for 3 days and they are now shiny like new and scrubbing them with steel wool the first day didn't even get through the first layer of buildup. I'm be don't this method with my shit forever now. It was effortless.
Most likely contains muriatic acid--which you can buy pretty cheap by the gallon or 5 gallon bucket.
I leave the carbon build up, it is free increased compression 🤣🤣🤣
and detonation with it.
I use B12 every 6th or so tank full in my 99 Camry 5S-FE 2.2l with currently 150k on the clock. B12 Chemtool is part of my car's monthly maintenance. At $3.50 a can, it provides the internal cleaning that probably isn't being done by the cheap gas I use. IOW, I'd rather pay to know what's cleaning the internal parts of my engine than some lie about some unproven cleaner package in my cheap gasoline. IMHO, this is the secret to getting super high miles out of a port-injection 4 banger Toyota engine. Well, this type of high miles is what I've gotten out of all my Toyota engines using this or a very similar method. Continually keeping it clean internally. And yes, I do use good synthetic oil and have an oil catch can to keep the engine from swallowing it's own poop.
Berryman makes a product called B12 Chemtool. I put 1 can in my 98 k1500 5.7 vortec, every other tank full of 90 octane 0 ethanol. Cleans carbon on valves pistons and injectors. Purrs like a kitten.
If you heat it up it works better. Not boiling hot just warm enough touch. Used this for all carb rebuilds and Exhaust brake butterfly's that were sized up.The youth trying to claim what has already been long ago used.
Simple green aluminum product , soaked head 4 days came out shiny brand new ! Insane
Carbon tetrachloride is what I use... Works better than anything you can buy. You can also get a super inexpensive media blaster and use baking soda.
the reason of 4 hours is that chemical reaction cause the aluminum to become brittle, you must wash that off with water
Great video I used so much of that berrymans when i was a young buck i cant stand the smell of it anymore so i use kroil and it smells like pinesol.
Kroil smells soo good
Kroil is probably one of the greatest smells ever, used that stuff as my grandpa had it in his shop when I was about ten
Well done buddy, many of the great mechanics don't have top of the line tools around, they work with their greatest tool their brain.
Geez I can smell it from here. Since you used that brass brush anyway, you didn't need the chem stink.
I know that shop smells like chem dip and will forever! ; )
Yip. That stuff is nasty.
Wtf? Even the tip of the sparkplugs were clean!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this product. I guess some of these juvenile posters should make a video and post if they know it all already ;) and we'll watch their vids :)
Lmao 🤣
Been wrenching for 40yrs. Berryman makes some fine products.
I just use CRC gasket stripper , It removes Carbon too .
Chances are both products have acetone in them. It just dissolves the oil and makes everything nice and clean.
The solvent breaks down aluminum. I once forgot a rack of MC carbs in a Saftety Klean tank (about 30 years ago) overnite and they were brittle as hell the next morning.
@@rollerbearings9995 Just throw some foil in it and see if you can find it later.
Bro oven and bbq cleaner does the same job in 4-10 mins and you can do the ports aswell
Thats a great idea!
@@coconutcreampie3795 Not on aluminum. Don't spray caustic alkali on aluminum, it will begin to dissolve.
@@mfree80286 Funny you mention that. I am doing zinc plating on a bunch of old motorcycle parts and have a lye solution for removing grease before plating. I put a wheel spacer into the lye and forgot about it for a week and it was totally deteriorated. Now I need to find one and its for a vintage bike.
Easy off oven cleaner works awesome
Concrete mixing tube, Medium or large I have three of them they come in real handy for either change or like you’re doing cleaning parts.
If the compound can damage aluminium after 4 hours, I hope you flushed the cooling and oil channels.
Work good on carburetor varnish fuels carb vat work great but EPA regulations and prices skyrocketed for the solution
Hmm i need this for my egr ports
That's what brought me here too.
Coat hanger and spray carb cleaner is all you need for most clogged egr ports.
Ford 4.2L truck engine you have to remove the plenum. For 4.6 and 5.4 a 9/16 drill bit works nice to dig out what you poke out of the egr holes in the elbow.
Same
Even better than chem dip is Permatex Spray-On gasket remover. Smells kind of strong from what I remember, but still better than ez-off. Permatex Spray-On gasket remover, I promise.
Another product that works is paint stripper, the product that sort of smells like ammonia.
Lol! Your garage looks just like mine! 👍
Thats why you have no wife
@@antoniononame3037 Lol!
Just a joke bud lol
@@antoniononame3037 who tf needs a wife
I use chem dip all the time. I rebuild motorcycle and ATV motors and some are really carboned up. I use the original formula, not the California stuff. It’s smells NASTY , but man does it clean carbon and carbs. Soak a head over night and nearly all the carbon just washes off. It is some toxic stuff though , so use gloves and avoid breathing it as much as possible. I would NOT recommend using it in an attached garage without having the door open and a fan blowing out. The smell will cling to your clothes too.
The stuff here is the California formula, it works, not as well, but it’s less toxic.
The reason they say 4 hours is it will begin to deteriorate the aluminum. A friend used a can I had to clean his motorcycle carb. Forgot about it for 4 days. Was nothing left but a small piece the main body. Turned it to dust.
Ok if you want it clean then use a media blaster an baking soda an wash clean, takes seconds an no residue. An compressed air after.
This old mechanic cleaned carbon while engine running with water through vacuum line ✌
Me too! Just spraying water into the the vacuum line!👍
Seriously?
This is to be used in a sealed container. Read the can. I know many men that have died of terrible painful cancers that used it like a religion. Get Rubbermaid sealed top containers. Then follow with water bath and then a bath of kerosene and all on homemade vibration table made with a electric da sander. Its like ultrasonics. I use a liquid that is heated called “turko” for upto a two hours then water wash followed by phosphoric acid for a max of two minutes, followed by water wash and then burunell cleaner followed water wash and 200 degree dry oven.(repair helicopter parts) FAA and manufacture approved process.
It's not that the aluminum has any kind of coating on it. It's that some chemicals, especially acidic ones, can dissolve aluminum, causing pits in the part. Too, electrolysis (a battery-like action) can occur between dissimilar metals such as aluminum and steel just from having pure water between them. If allowed to continue, it will eventually perforate the aluminum. I've seen that. Some chemicals intensify electrolysis, others, like antifreeze, inhibit it. Chorine bleach will eat holes in a stainless steel sink. I've seen that, too.
That's, most likely, the reason for the four hour time limit.
I Agree 100% It's like the original version of Cascade dishwasher powder from earlier then the 1995 or 2000 till someone at Cascade changed the formula it was AWESOME on any aluminum bake ware like my toaster over tray. It would come out almost new looking but again since someone at P&G / Cascade changed the formula now that same tray or any aluminum tray or pot comes out of the dishwasher looking like someone sprayed black primer paint on it and extremely dull looking. Hopefully the Chem he used to clean the carbon off the heads are not like Cascade case he will see pitting eventually on the parts. Yes, I like to cook lol Thanks Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
Nice vid....gave a 👍, may I suggest "work benches" for the future?
Look for a shop with ultrasonic cleaning machine and you will save a lot of money, time and effort; and you will save a little bit more the environment, I used to clean with those products until I discovered a shop with ultrasonic cleaning machine (in the other side of the city but it worth) and in one hour like new and shiny. If the aluminum parts are mate finish, means that the solution attacked the structure, remember that aluminum in quite porous. I have seen many engine heads with problems after cleaned with those acid or non-alkaline solutions. Just my experience.
Maybe it was my 22 years as a Navy Machinist, but I want to slap you upside....Just do it right. Disassemble completely, then clean & inspect. For what it costs (and potentially saves in the end) at least send the block to a machine shop to be cleaned and inspected properly. A partial rebuild is a waste of time and money.
I dont agree with you. This was a good running engine to begin with. Just dirty.
The only thing missing is the large shade tree covering the shop!
Chrisfix?
Really impressive, thanks for the video
I just used a glass bead machine into the intake. Engine quit running BUT no more carbon buildup.
M.A.G A
i would try that solution thanks for sharing thats the way i check for valves not seating right whit fuel.