Best intake valve cleaner MADE IN GERMANY!!!
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- čas přidán 8. 02. 2019
- Claims to clean valves in 30 seconds. Best intake valve cleaner made in GERMANY!!! mannol? we find out if this is the best fuel system cleaner or if there is a much better fuel additive. can we solve or fix a bad idle find out on this channel we fix engine vibrations or surging engine. with fuel cleaners you can clean intake valves on a gdi or direct injection engine like seafoam or marvel mystery oil.
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Liqui moly Germany's best engine oil watch the proof!! czcams.com/video/8wPOOe_pHJQ/video.html
I tried gas
Where does the carbon go when it gests loose
@@juansalinas2027 it gets to hang out in your catalytic converter.
How many miles does ypur car have in that video
Hho gas would work better, easy build but in throttle body sensor cars ,you will have to get computer hardware to adjust o2 to gas ratios since hho seems to make readings off at the o2 sensors
Those valves are clogged up way past the "miracle spray cleaners" stage
Only a decent head job will fix ☝️ one that bad, I know, I've ✅ done a few like it in my time. It's the price you 💰 pay to have a sweet running engine.
Yea tbh anything strong enough to remove it might cause damage to other parts of the engine (like seals). It's best to leave it unless it actually becomes an issue.
I have removed light carbon buildup from a throttlebody using electrical contact cleaner. But it also needs scrubbing, which you can't really do inside the engine. Plus you don't want chunks of carbon falling in to the engine itself.
@@BlatentlyFakeName Actually you can sandblast the valves just by taking the intake manifold off.... using crushed walnut as the media not actual sand grain. It’s called walnut blasting technically. All you have to do is make sure the valves are closed for the given cylinder and blast away. It’s what the main shops do for carbon cleaning on intake valves. It really works fantastically well. Look up vids of it.
@@jumpr2134 I've done it manually also. It gets rid of those cold start misfires caused by poor airflow.
@@johndoogan3712 not true, needs walnut blasting done.
This was interesting due to the fact that it clearly didn't do squat in my opinion. Thanks for posting!
I agree, no difference what so ever.
Maybe if the poster followed the directions and didn't lose 3/4 due to back pressure, the "test" might have yielded more conclusive results.
One thing is for sure... that's one clean ass throttle plate 😆😆
ahahhahahah
Yeah what can we try next
Yes oil test?
That side of the throttle plate / valve body is always clean. It's the other side that's getting carbonized, and the parts beyond that: the EGR valve and the intake manifold. But we didn't see pictures of any of those.
No egr valve this car uses variable valve timing for similar purposes
Pull the intake manifold, hook up a remote starter and seat 2 valves at a time, soak in a non evaporative solvent for 30-45 mins, wrap a flathead with a rag and lightly scrape. Once clean, wipe up as much as you can with a rag and blow out the rest with an air gun
You didn't even follow the whole instructions, that tube was there for a purpose.
Mannol 9873 intake cleaners id safe to use with teflon safe. BMW use teflon washers in the VANOS
This application was not done correctly: maintain air filter in-situ (remove MAF sensor to protect it) 30 seconds single burst @ 2500rpm + 1 hour hot soak + 10 mins+ fast drive.
Like im thinkin the hose was to get the product past the throttle plate
Yea I noticed he didn't do a 30 second spray like the instructions said to lol
I used the similar one recently.. mannol egr/turbo cleaner, i disconnected pcv hose from air filter to intake (it sux air in) and gave it 1/3 can (500ml). You would not believe the crap that went out of the exhaust!❤ Bg 44k won't help!!! It goes through fuel line, not through intake! But it worx like a charm
After this job is done that's going to be the cleanest snorkel I've ever seen..lol
Yeah what a dummy lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤭
I used bg and wurth products in my shop. Never disappointed. Bg 44k was great stuff. For a car that barely failed a smog test we put it in a tank, drive about 20 miles and the car would pass with ease. Never failed.
How does that work on GDI?
@@campagnollo no idea. I would check with them or look at the warnings. There are god products for diesels that may work better. Look up their products. I worked on mercedes and due to their system we had to use a differant addative. But make sure it's a professional product.
Best visual example of reversion ever!!!!!
since they made it with nylon manifold, i say open a thread hole infront of every intake valve where you can seal it back with screw and gasket maker,after you brush and vacuum it.
it would probably be less work to just remove the entire intake manifold and replace the gaskets while your at it...
Good stuff if there is only minor buildup. I recommend this service every 10k miles to prevent buildup. This one is definitely too far gone for chemicals.
Direct injection is a weird beast. Humble Mechanic and Deutsche Auto Parts have done some great videos on different carbon cleaning products and solutions that actually work beyond preventative measures (albeit both are focused on VW TSI/TFSI platforms)
5:16 from my life I will never get back):
Just skip to the end on these vids
WayneB27 - are you suggesting that someone put a gun to your head and forced you to watch it at all, or hid your mouse so you couldn't stop it?
@@acommenter5184 Yes.
@@acommenter5184 I was waiting in vain hoping it would improve actually.(:
@@acommenter5184 do you need a tissue?
Thought those valves would be shinny like chrome.
Its a can of... Fail
I don't see any difference at all. You videos are an anti-commercial for these products.
my first car was a 1960 Chevrolet belair and I had a broomstick like that for my cruise control I just measured how far it was to 70 miles an hour but some Velcro on each end of it it works really great
LMAO!!!
The reason the intake runners and valves are this nasty in the first place is sludge and oil coming in through the PCV combined with sooty exhaust gas from the EGR. Eliminate that once they're clean and you'll rarely have to worry about that. With smog testing going bye bye in America (yay!) you can easily do an EGR delete which will in most cases help the engine actually run better overall, and there are several different PCV catch cans on the market that are inexpensive and easy to mount, or you can easily build your own. I built my own about 15 years ago and it has worked wonders. The only caveat is that you have to periodically empty them as they collect oil, and if you have more blowby than normal (my engine has 300K miles on it so that's the case with me) you have to be on top of monitoring it. Mine has a clear bowl that I marked with for a maximum level, so I can easily look and see when it has to be emptied.
Totally agree. I don't think the small amount of "fumes" released into the air is much to be concerned amount compared to the exhaust and burning fuel. Best thing you can do for your car in my opinion. The PCV valve is an EPS mandated product,not something that was designed to make your car run better, or longer. ctually, just the opposite, which manyfacturers are certainly not going to complain about. In fact, we have the tech to build motors that can easily o 500K miles or more, but don't because then nobody would need a new car every year. lol. But that's okay. Understand, many jobs in the economy are there and created so people actually work to get a check instead of sit at home and get one. Or maybe not. An economy is a man made concept.
What would happen if you followed the directions and used the straw, go through the maf and sprayed for the full 30 seconds?
No maf
thats what i dud
I had this on a BMW 3.0 with 80k, only fix was removed inlet manifold and blasts the ports 1 at a time with walnut shells. Not cheap but like new after.
Do you still eat walnuts?
3 years later so I'm sure price has increased but..what was the cost of the walnut blasting?
That carbon buildup is hard to take off with cleaner and a wire brush, a spray cleaner ain't gonna do a damn thing.
We have had great results before and recently
For me in my 2015 wrx with almost 59k recently got it walnut blasted. Was the best results. I have an AOS and now egr deleted. Hopefully the combo will reduce carbon buildup. I run 93 octane.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO which produced did you use with beyter resists
Shamway. It's the full throttle blow by that gets into the intake tract.
heya gues 2016 bonestock chevy colorado with the 3.6. now seems to need 89 or 91 octane or it rattles at light load 2000-3500 ish rpm. di engine no catch can....yea yea. anywho is it possible the valves are coked up like these? 73k miles.
It's better to perform Walnut blasting every 60k km / 35k miles because with these cleaners, the built up carbon that were dislodged will be running through your cylinders and exhaust and could cause serious damage to your cylinders and/or cat converters.
Привет!!! Я тоже автомеханик, но я очищаю этим баллончиком Маннол не так!!!! Сначала надо на холостом ходу через трубочку интенсивно резко подать очиститель Маннол на дроссель и мотор захлебнется от очистителя но зато смочится весь впускной коллектор и клапана и каналы воздушные и надо дать постоять мотору откиснуть там много углеродистых отложений они должны размякнуть и делать это надо на теплом моторе +40+50 градусов не на полностью горячем +90 иначе очиститель быстро испаряется, потом как откиснет 2-3 минуты заводим прогазовываем и снова заливаем в дроссель основательно чтобы мотор заглох и так 2-3 раза раскисаем впуск и клапана а потом уже заводим обороты 2500 и брызгаем не жалем очиститель смывает раскишие углеродистые отложения я использую весь баллон на 1 очистку впуска на моторах с прямым впрыском GDI и турбо Ваг моторы с прямым впрыском )))) очень запущенный мотор отложения на видео очень большие видно ни разу не мыли впуск поэтому без замачивания такие большие отложения и не отмылись
I think we all knew that a carbon cleaner spray passing by a caked up valve stem at 200 mph was not going to remove the carbon. You're way past that stage. But thanks for the confirmation. And let us know what kind of bore camera you used. The clarity is great.
Mannol intake can work, I've tested it, but it melts plastic so should not be used with plastic rocker covers or possibly intake air tubes. Important to follow the instructions unambiguously ;) to avoid plastic parts exposure.
It looks like a septic pit before and after. Hope you got it sorted.
Thanks Nate for all the vids.
I have a GDI engine 5 years. The car yard should have told us, and made it part of their warranty servicing, to use valve cleaner each time. So now I got to do it..bit by bit over a year. I don't want large chunks of carbon going down into the cat. In fact my engine seems to be the exact same as yours.
IMO those valves needed to be cleaned by hand. Maybe used at regular intervals to keep the buildup from starting this stuff may just as well would’ve worked. Using it on a coked up engine like that is like putting a bandaid on a sucking bullet wound.
As far as I know the best way is to remove the intake and the exhaust manifold, rotate the engine till all the valves from a piston are closed then spray inside. Not the way you do it. I have seen it like I'm say it and it work excellent
Super vidéo qui met en évidence qu'aucun spray magique ne fonctionnera aussi bien qu'un bon vieux nettoyage manuelle avec démontage de l'admission 👌
Complètement oui
Wow this reminds me of South Main Auto video about egr valves on trucks, the ones driven lightly have plugged up, the ones that were beat on had clean ones lol
I know with diesels if you baby them they get lots of issues, if you drive them hard and on long distances they seem to last longer.
The real secret (and I'm not a Toyota guy) is to buy a Toyota GDI engine. They have port injection when the engine fires up then it switches to direct injection when the engine goes into closed loop.
Toyota and Lexus figured a solution
Older toyota engines only have the direct injection. But some of them don't have EGR which is a good thing. EGR is the main source of input port and valve soiling.
New Piston rings and new bearings... Also a cylinder head refresh at the engineering shop will be as good as new. That's the text book way.
I just did a 2014 VW Jetta 1.4L turbo with 105k miles and is was terribly clogged with carbon build up. On my case was better to remove the intake manifold and scrape the intake ports and Valves with a Pick tool set that with the intake valves close, then fill the intake ports on the cylinder head with Brake parts cleaner or Gum gutter and with any small brush or tooth brush scrub all around to clean everything nice and neat . They came out awesome I wish I could post pics on this comment but we all know is impossible 😅
I've done this before on my car. You need to spray that stuff closer to the throttle plate. Also don't forget to do a hot soak for 10 minutes then take it for an aggressive drive.
If that's hardened carbon forget it! You'll never get it off and it'll damaged your engine if you do.
Exactly my thoughts. Piston to head clearence issue
Try soda blasting (bicarbonate of soda in a sandblaster) it works great for taking carbon off without damaging the underlying material, if you can keep it dry you can vacuum the residue out, or it will dissolve in water so it can be washed off.
Now look what u made me do, i ordered 3 of them
🤣😂🤦♂️
No way it can do anything without a heat soak, then running it for a good amount. I used CRC, let soak for an hour. Then drove around 30 minutes. Then I took a 600 mile trip.
My car is running like new. I'm not going to disassemble jonny 5, but the power increase and smooth acceleration speaks for itself. Use CRC, and make sure to follow the instructions. If you can do like I did, and take a long trip beforehand, you're going to be happy.
BG44k will require use over a few times as dirty as this engine is, use the 9210 BG pressure device and use a mix of induction cleaner, plenum and 44k
Possibly spray the valves directly and let it set awhile then start and spray.
Very interesting video.
Since you were able to get the camera right to the valves, I wonder if you'd have done the same with the long hose and sprayed it directly onto the carbon and let it soak.
Just a thought.
cant do that on a mounted top block, it would flood the chambers, it needs to burn away somehow
Videos on mini coopers are 56 preferably 2013 love the video thanks
Thanks for the video.
When I had a Ford Focus ZX3 I would run a double concentration(2 oz per gallon) of Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas just before the oil change. I would drive the car up a long steep mountain grade at highway speed to saturate the carbon deposits with the cleaner then park the car and let it heat soak for about 30 min. After that I would restart the car bring up the temp and then blip the throttle between idle and 3k rpm with the car stationary. I would watch the clouds of vapor and carbon in the exhaust and continue blipping the gas until the exhaust cleared. After a few sessions of this over a few days the carbon would no longer show in the exhaust and my engine would be idling more smoothly and pulling more strongly on acceleration, plus my cold start running would be better.
wow thats some crazy deposit
Extralube ZX1 has a cleaning effect in the crankcase, and the combustion chamber. Maybe a little diluted in fuel would show interesting results when sprayed onto the back of valves. If the temperature is above 60c then it should loosen the carbon from the metal.
It might be too aggressive though.
It does say it’s suitable for fuel
I would suggest using GM Top End Cleaner.
One thought to try with your experiment is without the engine running spraying the cleaner directly on the intake valve / deposits getting access to where you are using your bore scope. Just to see if if dissolved the deposits. As also suggested is to run the vehicle at high speed driving and blow the deposits out.
I understand thanks for the ideas
That's some shiny carbon.
Gotta tell ya, I did the SeaFoam spray and emptied the can just as they recommended and the difference in the valves was night and day. They also appeared to be seating a lot better. Right afterwards. That V8 ran smooth as butter and after about a month we were curious to see what it looked like deeper into the engine. We removed the heads and it was amazing how clean it was. Simply bolted it all back together (runner truck) and haven’t had an issue at all in the last 7 months. The engine has 166,000 miles on it and it sounded like it was ready to die. After that clean out, runs beautifully. Not sure if those results are typical, but I was and still am pretty damn impressed. 👍🏻😎👍🏻
I use it once a year on my cars, and clean the maf at the same time. It does make a difference and your results are pretty typical.
When I first got my car it had been mostly sitting for 2 to 3 years, only being ran once a week. I ran that spray through it and cleaned out the rest of the intake system and MAF, and the difference in throttle response, power, and gas mileage was night and day.
Which SeaFoam product? I'd like to try it.
What brand of truck? What engine?
@@dalephillips8250, 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with the 4.7 liter V8. 😎
@@Far2hip Thanks for the info. But that engine is not direct injection. I had one it has the plastic strip across the tailgate. Was a decent truck with what they called magnum v-8. Hope it still runs well for you as I wish I still had one of my old ones for a "beater" to do different work with.
I think best way to minimize carbon build up would be porting and smoothing the the intake track. No porous surface for the carbon to build up on...
Hi what bore scope camera did you use? Very good image
Thanks!
30 seconds? Impossible. snake oil for sure
Like the vids but could you do a before and after side by side visual inspection
Plus agree with the comment below ever think about removing intake and letting the cleaner sit over night to remove Carbon build up
Yes i could allow over night and side by side will cut out details and much harder to see but i will try and do this on a upcoming videos dont let me forget alot of requests
Thanks for sharing
Can you explain the HARD part: How did you get the endoscope in past the manifold and into the cylinder head, so that you could see the valves? I recently tried to thread an endoscope through a throttle (held open) AND through an intercooler to the manifold, but it was impossible to maneuver through the intercooler and even find each manifold tube (1.4 TSI VW engine).
With port injection, the fuel from the injectors helps keep the back of the valves clean, not true with GDI. Use a high temperature of vaporization oil. This prevents excess oil vapors going through the EGR into the intake. Redline makes one. LiquiMoly does too I believe.
It’s recycled fuel vapors as well. The oil helps reduce but not prevent this issue.
In the old days when cars still used carburetors we just used brake fluid to clean the carb and intake side of the engine. The intake of this motor looks like it'll need a soak to get all that gunk off.
Why not spray directly onto the valve's? ???????? Engine off. As with the bore scope. Let it sit 10 minutes. Then check
Danger of hydrolock.
@@theamerican7080 NO!! Chance at all!
You dont run your engine and you have to take off the manifold! You do the cleaning without your engine running,clean out all the residue,air spout,put it back together.Nothing there to create HYDROLOK!!!
Obviously,a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!
Nothing works and that won't work either. Yesterday I was rebuilding a Kia engine and I had the head off, filled the intake ports full of CRC and let them sit over night, at best it got 20% cleaner when I blew it out with air. I tried sticking a bottle brush in there and loosening it up and that helped. Since I was installing new valve seals anyway I just pulled the valves out and cleaned them as NOTHING will get them clean save for blasting with the intake off. Now, if you regularly used a cleaner like this say every other oil change that might keep them from getting real bad.
@@djyul You are a moron. You risk great damage by filling up a cylinder with the cleaner seeping past an unseated valve, only a 10% volume of liquid in the cylinder would result in a bent connecting rod at the very least. Crank the motor with an uncompressable liquid and you just did tremendous damage. If you bother to take off the intake manifold follow procedure and use a media blaster to get the coke off and clean the residu before moving to the next intake valve set. Obviously, your little knowledge IS a dangerous thing.
I agree, it is only really beneficial as a prophylactic. Use it before choking and keep it clean.
Hey Nate.. So in your Best Opinion. What cleaner do you think works the Best for DIT's I have 2015 Wrx..With 242,000 I bought it with 60 miles in it..Do I've used the Crc one tank renew in the Gas and Crc intake and turbo cleaner seem to help .. Really think it's time for walnut blasting..
The only way a spray might do something is if you spray and soak for a period of time with manifold off and separetaly clean the manifold.. then pending the bottom ends condition you may possibly spin a bearing.. so whenever a decarb of any sort is done a oil flush service is a must
Suggestion: get your engine hot, turn off and spray your favorite cleaner into the closed intake valves, let it puddle up inside the valve. Let it sit for a hour or so, take note of the valves that you soaked. And repeat this process on the the valves you missed the first time. Remember a hot engine works best with this method. Its called a hot soak.
You may have to repeat this process, since your valves are really gummed up
@@mikespeck8642 Then unclog your catalytic converter
Remove the intake, tape together 30 or so plastic zip ties, turn engine to close valves, spray cheap carb cleaner in while jamming zip ties around to get carbon off.... If you don't have access to a wallnut blaster.
I'm forever commenting on old content, but I have to. I have never seen valves that bad...I can't believe that engine hasn't burned up or just quit!
My grandpa always used a product called "RISLONE" he would get the engine up to operating temp and drizzle enough "In the intake" to about kill the motor then a good shot to kill it and let it cool overnight. Seemed to work well, The old scout 80 spat out a load of crap and smoked for a bit but it surely smoothed out and quieted down. Try it for yourselves.
I think you may see better results if you spray more product faster, yes I know it may stall the engine and you don’t want to hydro lock the engine but I think that the products may be evaporating some before actually making it to the valves. Just my two cents. Usually when I do it I force feed as much as I can while holding the throttle open !!
Yeah i agree i will try this qnd ideas for the next video?
I thought the high RPM phase was for after the heat soak period to burn off the deposits?
Exactly, there's many methods like that on car wizards channel.
Spray directly in to the intake manifold through a vacuum line ( like brake booster line) then clear the fault code after. Your wasting your money and time the way you’re currently doing it.
It doesnt make a difference i have did this in previous seafoam videos
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO yes it does
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO it make a difference you dont know what you are doing listen to luke and spray it in a vacuum line and dont pretend to be good and that you know everything because you dont !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
yea you need to spray it in a hot engine, turn off and spray and let it soak, something this bad will need several applications. You want something foamy like expanding foam, a light spray wont cut it. you need to basically drench it. I used to clean my rotary spark plugs this way running premixed oil so plugs gunk up a lot.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO Yeah, it won’t make a difference. Anything besides a light coating of surface carbon won’t be touched by spray cans. Walnut shell blasting is the easiest method for cleaning the intake valves.
I have 2011 Kia optima GDI Engine the way i did it take the intake off then . place a wrench on the crank pulley turn it until the valve is closed clean each one at a time. Yes it will take some time but you can clean it like new.
Very cool camera man! I need one!
Thanks for the video. So you already had the oil catch can installed?
Ya I wanna know how long has he had the catch can on that engine. Since new?
You should have done it after the throttle plate and taken it for a hard run after doing this
Sod that manifold off Mr Muscle oven cleaner turn engine by hand to close each port one by one . Rinse with brake cleaner and blow out with air line 👍
This works very well👍. I was hesitant to use mr muscle oven cleaner as some reviews said it will damage the engine, but took the risk and had it done 2 yrs ago to decarb the piston heads (totally cleaned); after cleaning I changed the engine oil. Resulted no damage or gasket leak to the engine. Car rans over 25k miles since then.
Auto parts stores have a large variety of "snake oil" to chose from. The products don't have to accomplish anything. All that is required is that they don't hurt the engine. With airplanes, any product that doesn't damage an engine is FAA approved even if it does nothing to improve running. I read that spraying distilled water into an engine intake works as well as any commercial product because it induces temperature extremes which causes carbon build up to contract and expand. That will cause the carbon build up in the engine to fracture off. In a car engine that may cause the catyletic convertor to be plugged up.
Spray it into a vacuum line, to get directly into the intake and not be restricted by the throttle plate.
What about the other 4 intake valves? Was that even the same car?
Thank your video
Best cleaner made in the world for carbon and fuel glaze is Chem Clean there is no other product on the market that works even close.. Its expensive and comes in a one gallon can but having it in your shop is freakin awesome. Our main use for it in our powersports shop is carb soaking, no scrubbing needed just soak for an hour and rinse and reassemble.
It made no difference! Still got extremely dirty intake valves.
With this much carbon on the valves I would be doing this very gradually over time, No need to do it all at once. Cat converters are not cheap. The smoke comes from the burning of the product, not carbon. As I have seen CRC sprayed into the 02 sensor hole, that created that exact same smoke as seen in valve cleaning....thus it isn't the carbon that is smoking.
What borescope are you using?
Whatever you spray into the intake isn't comparable to direct application to the back of the valve and agitation with a proper wire nylon brush. This product applied directly is excellent.
Realistically, every time you go to do a timing chain or belt you may as well take the head off and clean it properly. I can tell you from experience that cleaning carbon off valves... a lot of the chemicals have a hard time doing anything noticeable. I've had to literally have intake manifolds or heads in my hot tank solution at 200 degrees for an hour to over 7 dependent on how dirty they were and how much I had in the tank itself.
Why the hell would I pull the head on a timing belt or chain job just to clean intake valves. That's making two jobs out of one. I could see if the head had to come off, otherwise I wouldn't touch it. Just pull the intake manifold, close the valves, and get to cleaning.
After all those chemicals, i have not seen any difference.
There was a large reduction of carbon especially in the crc vs seafoam
Would you mind telling me what the mileage on this engine was at the time of this video?...also, what mileage did it have when the catch can was installed? Thanks.
Thanks, could you test if you can swap radiator coolant for thin oil coolant instead.
Never buy a car with a GDI engine. Should be outlawed.
Gdi is awsome tech running a good fully synthetic oil and change it on time can avoid this problem all toghter
Combining gdi with mpi should allow the best of both worlds tho
@@Arsya_AR94 mpi?
@@bitTorrenter multi port injection, the common fuel injection method dude.
just use premium fuel and you will reduce the carbon deposit, only reduce because it is inevitable to get gunk on gdi
I noticed that you have been using the same car for all the chemicals. Proof that the shit don' t work.
Still a good video Nate as I'm sure this type of products will be in demand for many years.
Hi, love the channel. We have a 2013 Lexus GS with 240k miles. I tried the sea foam with the throttle body, and the check engine light started flashing. I stopped because I was afraid of doing damage to car. After 10 minutes the car started and drove fine no lights/ problems. I want to finish the process, but was afraid. It this normal to have CEL flash?
Just as an idea, try using the spray with the straw, and tape it to the PCV fitting on the intake, making a good air tight seal. Then try giving it several good sprays. The throttle might have been too far closed to allow enough of the cleaner in the engine.
Completely agree!
EgR recirculation ontop of valve bad design
that may be something you want to do at every other oil change after they have been cleaned. Should keep that build up down, plus, keep the oil out of the intake system.
I think we need to treat these "cleaners" as maintainers. Use one every oil change to keep it clean, or cleaner longer, to delay a major walnut blasting.
You do this always on the same car. I don't believe you
Spray a 50 50 mix of atf and acetone in there or mix a little kerosene with it and spray it in on the dirty valves.. Bet it will break down the carbon.. Use a valve stem and put it in the spray bottle if u want...it will work better than what you are buying
What about stp and thanks for the idea
What's the procedure though..? Spray through the throttle body? While running? Rpm, etc? And how much to spray?
Same as crc 2500 rpm throttle body or intake vacuum
Mannol is mostly acetone so if he sprays it onto the valves it should work.
The best stuff is mercury combustion deposit cleaner for marine engines was made for two stroke free sticking rings try the plug test by spraying dirty plugs testing different cleaners and compare it see the way it works
back when I was a kid, 35 years ago.. we would do something similar with a quart of Gunk Motor Flush.. pour it down the carburetor...and final amout just our it in to die the motor.. wait 10mins and walla "italian tune up" the car would run great for 3-6 months and then repeat.
You get much less carbon build up with fully synthetic oils, especially the low ash ones
rasch19785 please explain what oil have to do with it (no being a jerk, just really don’t know) ??? Thanks
@@courtneypope8979 a big reason for carbon build up is due to blow-by around the piston rings., creating pressure in the crank case, which is released by a value, which then goes into the intake manifold. When that happens oil mist also makes its way through the value, causing the build up on the intake values and manifold
Aren't you afraid that a loose bit of carbon could damage\scratch your piston, exhaust value or cat?
these types of foams impossible to loose anything from that deposit.... :) just transform the (thinnest) top layer into a fluid....thats why its not that effective.
The carbon will build up until it breaks free regardless and i have did this for years with no problems and amazing success after trying every cleaner made lol. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
Nah carbon chunk break loose all the time in running engines blows right out the exhaust valve.
Thanks for sharing
Wherever you put the camera through, go get that tuve and re-spray it through there and let it soak for a solid day!
A good brush scrubbing wouldn’t hurt either. Personally, I would remove the head and do a good valve job. Nothing beats that!