DIY Kayak Cart, Lightweight, Stowable, Cheap to Build
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- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- UPDATE - DO NOT follow my poor method of cutting PVC pipe on a table saw. That, I've learned from the comments, is NOT the way to do it unless you don't mind losing a few fingers. GaryNC was kind enough to refer me to the following video, which shows (at around 3:18) a much better way of doing it. • Tips for Crosscutting ...
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This kayak cart is small enough to fit in the cargo hold of our kayaks, and is light (3-1/2 pounds), and easy to handle and carry. For reference, the cargo hold has an oval opening which is 16 inches long, 10 inches wide, 8-1/2 inches deep in the center and 7 inches deep at the sides. I bought the wheels at Harbor Freight Tools ($5.99 each) and all other parts from Home Depot.
This kayak weighs 54 pounds and although I have carried it by myself before, it is awkward. It seems like I'm just asking for back trouble carrying that thing. Even when my girlfriend and I carry each boat together, it is awkward, especially for the person holding the aft part of the boat. And we have to make two trips to get both kayaks down there, then two more trips at the end of the day to get them loaded up again. These carts will make it easy to transport the boats down and back up again making one trip only.
If you intend on stowing the cart in your kayak's cargo hold, put the cart together without glue first and then see if it will fit in your hold. If it's too big, you can then make adjustments. When you get it where you want it, glue it all together.
Notes: In the video I say to use 2-inch pieces of PVC to attach the axle to the upper supports. I would use 2-1/2 inch pieces instead, at a minimum. The 2-inch pieces make the gap between the two T's too narrow to place the ratchet strap hooks between them. Two and a half inch pieces will allow for plenty of room for the hooks. You could, of course, make them even longer so your kayak will ride higher off the ground, but doing so might make the cart too big to stow in your cargo hold. And the longer those pieces are, the less stable it will be due to the flex in PVC pipe.
#kayakcart #kayakcartpvc #kayakcartdiy - Sport
A few notes that I didn't mention in the video. First, see 3:18 of the following video for a good method of cutting small pieces on a table saw. czcams.com/video/36mQOVFX7dI/video.html DO NOT follow my poor example in the video unless you don't care about losing your fingers. Also, I got the wheels from Harbor Freight Tools and all other parts from Home Depot. If you'd prefer to have bigger wheels you can certainly do that. Just Make the kayak supports tall enough that the boat will clear whatever wheels you decide to use. Alternatively, you could make the axle longer so the wheels sit out away from the kayak so there's no way they could contact the boat.
Also, I didn't make it clear that I attached the other strap's hook to the opposite upright support and brought it over the kayak to feed it into the ratchet. The strap doesn't go all the way around the kayak. There's a hook attached to each upright support, and the straps go up from there and meet at the top.
As far as the height of the boat, if you want to make it ride much higher you might need to use heavier PVC, such as 3/4" instead of 1/2". In that case, you'd probably have to use slip-on end caps at both ends of the PVC that houses the axle, drilling a hole in them with a slightly larger diameter than your axle tube. There are many ways to customize something like this to your own needs and preferences.
Thanks' Maynard. I used my chop saw to cut the parts. Took my new boat out Friday before the next snowstorm... used the new dolly to get down to the end of the boat ramp, worked like a champ! I think I will put an 8" set of wheels on to handle the cobble sized stones that are around most of the local lakes thou.
a smart man. We can made this fitting for our kyak. We can hook it to our back car. This saved much money. Thank you for your video.
That is a really good design mate. I was impressed with how accurate it is and I really looks the part. This has gave me an idea for my sit on top kayak for the scupper holes.
I absolutely love this kayak. It is very stable and has a ton of storage. I took it out on the river this weekend and now I’m extremely excited for fishing opener.
Easier way to line things up. When pvc is dryfitted; get the alignment perfect then mark a pencil line across the pipe and fitting. That way when you glue up; just match your marks and it will be perfect. No guessing, eyeballing, or fiddling. Otherwise, great video.
Good plan. I'd use friction tape instead of electrical tape, that way your pads have added friction against the bottom of your kayak. Electrical tape is pretty low friction.
Just a heads up folks' Don't use ratchet straps for sit inside kayaks! You risk breaking the seals on bulkhead equipped boats, use the cinch type instead. Other than that, I love it!
Thanks' Maynard.
You definitely have to be careful not to cinch the ratchet straps down too much. And yes, using cinch straps (I assume you're talking about the cam style mechanism) will prevent it from getting too tight, but I've had trouble with those slipping and not maintaining the tightness.
@@MTMiser Hello Maynard, it's funny to hear from you today. I was out in the garage last night fiinishing up on putting things away for winter when I looked at my tow dolly and smiled. Mine still does a great job and I do mean the cam lock strap around here we call them a cinch lock. Have a great Thanks Giving Sir!
Excellent explanation. I like the simplicity of your design and it is light weight 😉.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I was able to purchase the items you suggested (couldn't find an aluminum tube, but I found a 3ft. brass one I was able to cut down with a hacksaw). I also found a great PVC pipe cutter as well - a few 2ft. sections of 1/2" PVC from Lowe's did the trick. I finished it by spray painting it. I'm really proud I was able to build this, thank you for all of your help and your updates posted as well!
Good job!
Awesome, a KISS design! Thanks for including a detailed part and price list!
Glad you liked it, Lee. Big fan of Occam's Razor - "the simplest design is usually the best."
You found the perfect construction. Thanks for sharing.
Best and simplest design... love that it is storable! I have the same kayak so perfect for me...
great project, and it works saves wear and tear on my new Kayak. Thank you for sharing.
I used pins to fix the uprights so I could swap out to carry both the flat bottom kayaks and the one with scuppers. Good guide.
Thank you sir. You saved me money and passed on knowledge that i will be sure to pass on. I really appreciate you.
Great tutorial each to follow
Good video bud 👍 👍
Thanks for sharing how you did yours.
Great explanation, much obliged !
Thx, Maynard. Great design which I will build this weekend.
As a cyclist, I might add to your electrical tape install. The tension idea is great, but one can also can weld the ends. I use an old bicycle spoke heated with a match, then just touch the spoke edge near the end 2x (parallel to one another and to the tape length). Hit for just a brief moment.
Also, as a woodworker, I worry about kickback. Perhaps clamp a short piece of wood at the front of the saw onto the fence, space the fence so it is length of cut plus wood thickness away from the blade. Then, use a miter gauge, butt the PVC onto the wood, and slide forward through the blade. No more chance of kickback.
Great project. Thx!
Gary
Gary - thanks for the tips - both of them. Good ideas. I'd never heard the electrical tape "weld" idea before. I'm also a cyclist - for the last 30 years. Going to ride the Washington and Oregon parts of the Pacific Coast Bicycle Route soon. Maybe I'll make a video about that. I've ridden the Oregon and Northern California part 3 times, but never Washington.
@@MTMiser Wow, sounds like an epic bike trip. Safe and fun travel wishes to you.
My wife and I have a trip to the NC mountains planned in August. We will hike for 4 days, then ride road bikes in the mountains for 3 days. Cheers, Gary
For the tablesaw technique, check out the following link, at around 3:18.
czcams.com/video/36mQOVFX7dI/video.html
@@garync3810 Thanks so much for that link - that makes perfect sense. Can't wait to try it out. You may have just saved my fingers. :-) Also, I hope you and your wife have a great trip. I'm also a hiker. Great fun to get up in the mountains and away from it all. Best wishes...
@@MTMiser Thx Maynard. Best wishes, Gary
Just made this! Thank you
A good easier way, I will make one. Thanks for sharing
Thanks. I looked up many videos for this type of light kayak kart. This one is the best and lightest design, and very well explained. Its the only design I saw with plastic wheels and hollow shaft, which is what I intend to use for mine. Also with washers and end pins rather than Nuts, which nuts would be unnecessary from a mechanical design point of view for this kind of use. Very clever, I will build one this weekend!
Thank you, Etienne. I really wanted a cart that was light and could fit in my cargo hold. This design works really well for that. And I agree with you about the wheels and washers. No need to overbuild it with heavy rubber pneumatic wheels and wheel bearings. Best of luck building yours.
@@MTMiser Thanks. I am a little bit struggling with the supplies, and no one is selling the 1/2" aluminum tubes in my zone (Montreal). However a friend just dropped by with a coated 5/8 light steel tube for me. I am adjusting the wheels hub accordingly. This should work.
@@etiennesourd3607 Best of luck!
Nice! Doing mine today!
@Manard the Miser; Assembled mine this afternoon. Prices are up just a touch but still under the $100.00 that manufacturers are asking. Thanks for the parts and cut list for a fast build! Hope you don't mind but, I used red electrical tape instead of black (matches my boat) never have been one to follow the crowd... I would suggest a larger diameter wheel to travers rocky ground but other than that it is well thought out and assemble is fast, seems sturdy enough to get the job done.
Hi Don - the red tape sounds like a nice touch! And I don't mind at all - this is just showing what I did and I find it interesting to see how people modify this in different ways. Make it your own! :-)
Nice job
Thank you for the video sir
Super helpful! Just finishing up my cart using your instructions (with some minor adjustments).
This is going to save my back!
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, M.D. S. Saving my back was one of the reasons I wanted to build this thing. I've had lower back issues for decades, including a lumbar fusion 6 years ago. Carrying a kayak is awkward, even when there are two people doing it. This makes it so much easier. Glad you found it helpful!
@@MTMiser I hear ya. Very awkward to grab a hold of and carry.
I actually had a couple of compliments on the design yesterday (which I attributed to you, of course). Loved being able to remove 1 hitch pin to remove 1 wheel and store it in the kayak.
Thanks again! Keep well!
Cool stuff
Simply splendid video. Awesome job done. Great video with tips, tricks generic in nature, exact dimensions of product as well as vessel, really well explained. Dog was amazing too and very well behaved. Which bike do you have?
Thanks RS, and "Tater" thanks you too. He is a great little buddy. The bike is a Honda NC700X. It's been a great bike and very fuel efficient.
I used a drop saw for mine. It came up brilliant and I used pneumatic tires. My Yak is 35 kilos.
Thank you.
Let's decide to make a video the day the neighbor is using his f**king chainsaw. Well done.
Great video. What's the Hillman part number for the hitch pins? They make a lot of different sizes...
This Everbilt pin from Home Depot works. They call it a 1/2" pin. I don't know what the HIllman equivalent is. www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Hitch-Pin-Clip-809598/204276264
Nice!
Hi Maynard. Thanks for the great video and clear instructions. I am going to adapt this to use with some 1” bore “sand” wheels for use here in Florida. May be a dumb question,, but does the axle also rotate along with the wheels when you are pulling? Looks like it does when watching the movement and noting the hitch pin rotating. Since you are using 1/2 pipe, (I know pipe diameter is supposed to be outside diameter), inserted into 1/2 pvc (which is supposed to be inside diameter), does that mean there is enough space so that the pvc doesn’t also rotate. I have 1” wheels (that are supposed to have a 1” bore) ordered, as well as some 1” aluminum pipe. I’m thinking that a tight fit when the pipe is inserted into the wheel is fine - since it appears in your video that the pipe rotates with the wheel. Regarding which PVC to use - I’m assuming the metal pipe should move freely enough within the PVC pipe so that’s the PVC doesn’t rotate. Otherwise the T connectors would be wanting to rotate? So - if 1’ PVC is really tight, should I go with 1 1/4”?
Hi Joanne - even though the PVC is 1/2" and the axle tube is 1/2" there is plenty of play between the two and the axle can easily rotate when the cart is pulled along. I would imagine it would be the same with 1" PVC and a 1" tube, but I'm not positive. The PVC should definitely not rotate. The axle doesn't have to rotate but it doesn't hurt it if it does, as long as the bore in the wheels are big enough to rotate on the axle tube rather than having to rotate WITH the axle tube. Does that make sense?
@@MTMiser well hi there! I made a trip to Home Depot and experimented, and you are correct, the 1” tube fits nicely into the 1” PVC pipe, So my arrangement is 1” aluminum tube inserted into a shorter piece of 1” PVC - then a washer with 1” hole to keep the 1” PVC in place on the inside of the wheel, then the wheel with the 1” bore, (the aluminum tube inserts nicely into the sand wheels with the 1” bore, still allowing the wheel to rotate freely on the aluminum tube). Then I believe I’m supposed to put another washer on the outside of the wheel? I got some hitch pins to put in holes on the end of the aluminum tube to keep the wheel from flying off. Oh - to make the axle stronger, I also am putting a piece of 1/2’ pvc INSIDE the 1” aluminum tube…. Thanks again for the great video. I’ll take a pic when I get this thing all put together and send it if you’d like to see it. If you look at the website “origami paddler” you will see why my design has to be a little different than most - I am basically transporting a box-shaped object.Forgotto mention - the 1” pvc rotates freely on the 1” aluminum tube..
@@joannehampton9681 That's very interesting, as is the "Origami Paddler." Please do let us know how it turns out. I'd be interested to know.
Thanks 🇨🇦👍
That dog was asking, "when will my chariot be finished?"
Heyy in America do u round things up when ur talking about measurements I live in the uk we all work in mm not inches ! when I convert ur inch measurements to mm it don’t make sense a half inch is 12.7 mm , which is tiny !
@michaelwood5382 - No, we don't round up, normally. But 12.7 mm is too short. In the video I was saying to make those two short pieces two inches long, but after making the video I realized that was too short so added text to say to make them 2-1/2 inches long (two and one half inches, or about 64 mm). But you can make those longer if you want your kayak to ride higher, for example.
To shorten my question - looks like it is okay ?perhaps even desirable? If the axle rotates along with the wheel, but the axle should rotate freely within the PVC - correct?
It won't hurt anything. With heavy use it will wear out sooner than, say, something with a wheel bearing, but this is so easy and cheap to fix I wouldn't really worry about it myself.
Couple of bungee cords would probably work and be a heck of a lot faster
Maybe so. I was worried that they wouldn't hold the cart tight enough against the kayak.
Don't recommend that method of cutting at 4:20. Time to count fingers. LOL.
I think they're all still there. You're supposed to have 8, right? :-) Sometimes I get sloppy - pushing my luck on that. I'll do better in the future.
I looked into buying the parts. Whoa, they are so expensive. A T joint is like several bucks at Home Depot. I think all the parts will add up to be more than what you pay at Walmart for one complete functioning cart.
I haven't priced the parts lately but you certainly could be right about that. These prices I paid when the video was made were as of 2 years ago and inflation has been crazy since then. What things cost now is ridiculous.
If you have farm and fleet near you.. go there.. I just went today and got everything beside the wheels for 24 dollars
Hi Maynard, how can you insert 1/2 inch of aluminium pipe in 1/2 inch of pvc pipe 1/2 inch diameter is the same for both.
Good question. I wish I could answer it. But those are the sizes that worked for me. Apparently the outside diameter of the aluminum tubing or inside diameter of the PVC piping aren't measured in the same way. But the tubing slips inside the piping with plenty of room to spare.
Warm your pvc pipe using a heat gun whilst your pipe/rod has been in the fridge/freezer for an hour or so prior, then take out and lighty grease the outside of your pipe/rod and inside the pvc if nessasary by pushing a greased rag through it and in she goes no problem whilst turning clockwise 😊
Would this work for a canoe also?
I don't see why not. You might need to make it a little beefier if the canoe is heavy, but this one handles my 54-pound kayak fine.
I think you threaded you ratchet strap the wrong way, the loose end goes on top. enjoyed your video Maynard. thumbs up
Whatever works. 🙂
right, not a table saw, use zip ties and also can make line up marks while dry fitting the pieces when they are where you want them, very easy.
I would have made it a little taller. I can see you picking up the back handle and the front dragging on the ground. Or put the cart closer to the front.
The beauty of this is you can do it however you want with very minor changes. You can make those two vertical PVC pieces as long as you want which will raise the kayak higher. But there's a point where stability is compromised. I don't mind dragging the tail a little here and there for the sake of a low center of gravity. There's also the issue of fitting it in the cargo hold. Make it too tall and it won't fit in there anymore. But that might be alright for some people. For me, I love having the ability to stow it there.
I hope you have spare fingers somewhere..... Never shove your fingers between the blade and fence....Especially with a small piece like that. A friend of mine cut 3 fingers on a table saw. Trust me, you don't want to wait for that to happen.
Yep, we've been over this before. See the pinned comment or the description.
Did you say size of wheels?
Yes - 7-inch diameter with 1/2-inch bore.
@@MTMiser Ok thank you, I've decided on 10" x 16mm bore sack cart style wheels from another gentleman's video on utube. I'll use the 16mm x 1m thread rod axle. I'll make mine a little bigger all round because its for an Intex Excursion 5 inflatable (12foot long) and attach pvc tubing to the centre tee with centre a support using a tee and a handle on the end using another tee to manoeuvre it. I like your idea of the strap so ill improvise on that. Any other top tips for doing it appreciated thanks. thanks?
@@markweatherall7437 Sounds great - good luck with your build.
@@MTMiser Thank you very much. 🙂
Easiest way to get it parallel, turn it upside down lol
NOW you tell me. Lol.
No. Too low for pull over deep sand or beach stones.
Plastic degrades its strength when exposed to solar
U/V. And my loaded boats for the haul are over 50
pounds of pull weight. Hardened chain fixed to a big
steel ground anchor waits for me at my sea entry.
My big black locking device is waiting there 24/7...
Customize it to fit your intended use. I built it for the way I'd use it - paved launch ramps or smooth dirt at my favorite launch areas. My kayak (shown in the video) weighs 54 pounds and this cart handles it nicely, but that's over smooth surfaces. Customize as needed.
Hi Maynard, Can you make me of these cart? It appears that you can do these pretty easy. Please let me know, yes or no. I can send my contact information.
Hi - Sorry, I don't produce these for sale. Just don't have enough time in my life for that. But you could show a handy friend or acquaintance the video and see if they would build one for you. Best of luck.
A lot easier to cut pvc with pvc pipe cutters
Yes, I just didn't have any on hand.
Too bad 1/2” conduit doesn’t fit in 1/2” bore wheels……
Yeah, with PVC the size is the inside diameter, so the outside diameter will always be larger. At the link below you'll find a chart that tells you the outside diameter for each size of PVC. www.pvcfittingsonline.com/resource-center/pvc-pipe-dimensions-18-through-24/
You dont need a 10' piece of pvc its way to much unless your making like 3 or 4 of them. You can get the 3'or 4' precise at lowes or homedepot for like a couple bucks. Had I know that this project would of been hella cheap. And you don't need 6' of pipe installation either. Use duck tape not electric tape.
True enough, but what you would save would amount to pennies. And it seems I always need PVC for something so the extra will always get used eventually. It's cheaper per foot to buy a 10-foot stick than individual smaller pieces. For example, my local Home Depot sells the 10-foot piece today for $2.91 ($0.29 per foot) whereas a 2-foot piece is $1.35 ($0.68 per foot), or 134% more expensive per foot for the 2-footer. But yes, if I only was going to make one and would never need PVC again, I could have bought two 2-foot pieces (they don't list a 4-foot piece) which would have saved me 21 cents over buying one ten footer. As far as the pipe insulation, my Home Depot only sells it in 6-foot lengths at $1.53 each for 1/2 inch. And like the PVC, the excess will get used elsewhere eventually. Also I prefer electrical tape to duct tape, as duct tape has not held up well to UV radiation in my experience, where electrical tape has. I have some solar wiring wrapped in it on top of my truck camper that's been fully exposed for 6 years without a problem. But I had some duct tape wrapped on a roof rack that was completely deteriorated in a couple of years of sporadic use (stored in my shop when not in use). But you can do this however you like.
Nooo did this guy just cut a ratchet strap 😢
Yes, I did. Twice!! The horror! :-) Sorry, I don't understand the problem with that. These particular straps are dedicated for use this with kayak and cart only, so why wouldn't I want to cut it to the correct length so I don't have to deal with a lot of excess strap material every time I use it?
that's too low .
When u pick up the front end u gonna drag the rear end .
Maybe you didn't watch it to the end. It doesn't drag. Go to 15:10 . But if you think it will, just make it a little higher. This worked out great for me though
No way you paid $2.25 for those ratchet straps. Shouldn't use ratchet straps, use cinch straps. Your plastic wheels will break eventually.
You're right, I didn't pay $2.25 for "those" ratchet straps. I paid $9 at Harbor Freight for 4 of them, which is $2.25 each. They are now $11.99 (inflation, you know), but HF has sales often. One strap is for this kayak cart, one for my girlfriend's, and two to help hold both kayaks to the roof rack. If you'd rather use cinch straps, go ahead. This is just the way I chose to do mine. Nothing's written in stone. And yes, the wheel is plastic and some day it may break, although there's no sign of it happening anytime soon. You could build your cart like a Sherman Tank if you want, with steel, roller-bearing wheels, etc., but I prefer to keep it light for something as light-duty as this. And if a wheel does eventually break, I'll go back to Harbor Freight and buy another one. They're currently $5.99. Good luck with your build.
@@MTMiser - You're too nice, ha ha ... I like your username, I'll sub just for that ...
I am a cabinet maker. You are showing such absolute dangerous techniques for cutting pvc on a table saw. How you manage to still have all your fingers is a mystery. Omg. I stopped watching the video because its just so dangerous the way your doing it.
Ron - thanks for your comment. The last time I took a woodshop class was about 55 years ago, so my memory of the safest ways to cut are long gone. Since you are a professional cabinet maker, it would be helpful if you could make some suggestions, or possibly refer me, or anyone else who is curious, to a video that shows the safest ways of doing this.
For anyone interested in this, GaryNC referred me to the following video, which looks like a great way to cut small pieces. czcams.com/video/36mQOVFX7dI/video.html