Thanks, Catias, the Master Oil Painting membership has been keeping me too busy to do much for CZcams. This email from MaryAnn is one I usually answer with simply an email response, but I thought it might be better if I added a video description as well and then realized others on CZcams my benefit. We're working out the best way to accommodate both and hopefully will begin adding more content to CZcams again soon.
Great question Mick. My recommendation is to use whatever materials work best for you. As far as water mixable oils being safer - not in any way that I am aware of. Some suggest they are better because it's possible to use water instead of solvents, but I don't use solvents with traditional oils anymore, so that's a weak argument. Water mixable oils may turn out to be perfectly fine long-term, but they are still a newer technology in terms of art materials longevity. All paints are made with the same pigments, it's simply the binder that's different. The drawback to WMOs is that they dry more slowly and with a softer paint film than traditional oils which leaves them more susceptible to damage. That's also one of the primary drawbacks to acrylics - the paint film remains so soft that dirt and grime that accumulates on the painting over time gets absorbed into the paint surface and is extremely complicated to remove for conservators when they try to clean the painting. With traditional oils that are varnished, that's not a problem. The trouble with traditional oils is that they continue to oxidize and become increasingly brittle for the life of the painting - they never stop oxidizing even after hundreds of years. That's why conservators recommend painting on stable surfaces like panels. On the other hand, I've concluded for myself that most professional art materials and surfaces work well and the slight possibility of problems down the road should never get in the way of painting. Use whatever materials are most accessible and useful for you and if your work is ever in a museum let the conservators figure it out. I have two paintings of mine from the early 90s that are on stretched canvas with thick 1/4 inch strokes of paint and they have not cracked at all. The most important thing is to paint and help make the world a more beautiful place for all of us.
You can paint completely solvent free with traditional oil paint brands. No need for water miscible oils. Instead of rags, I use a canvas to wipe my brushes while painting. This lets any heat dissipate and minimizes any fire hazard. If I do need to wipe my brushes or palette I use bathroom tissue which can be safely flushed. And I use earth pigments so it’s safe for the environment. You can learn more about solvent free painting in this video. :) Hope it helps. czcams.com/video/2gMDf1Bwo9o/video.html
Welcome back !
Thanks, Catias, the Master Oil Painting membership has been keeping me too busy to do much for CZcams. This email from MaryAnn is one I usually answer with simply an email response, but I thought it might be better if I added a video description as well and then realized others on CZcams my benefit. We're working out the best way to accommodate both and hopefully will begin adding more content to CZcams again soon.
Hi, I saw you liked using Magnese blue, so do i , but I can’t find a good one anymore, can you recommend one?
Hi what do u think about the water mixable oil dont you think its much safer.?
Great question Mick. My recommendation is to use whatever materials work best for you. As far as water mixable oils being safer - not in any way that I am aware of. Some suggest they are better because it's possible to use water instead of solvents, but I don't use solvents with traditional oils anymore, so that's a weak argument. Water mixable oils may turn out to be perfectly fine long-term, but they are still a newer technology in terms of art materials longevity. All paints are made with the same pigments, it's simply the binder that's different. The drawback to WMOs is that they dry more slowly and with a softer paint film than traditional oils which leaves them more susceptible to damage. That's also one of the primary drawbacks to acrylics - the paint film remains so soft that dirt and grime that accumulates on the painting over time gets absorbed into the paint surface and is extremely complicated to remove for conservators when they try to clean the painting. With traditional oils that are varnished, that's not a problem. The trouble with traditional oils is that they continue to oxidize and become increasingly brittle for the life of the painting - they never stop oxidizing even after hundreds of years. That's why conservators recommend painting on stable surfaces like panels. On the other hand, I've concluded for myself that most professional art materials and surfaces work well and the slight possibility of problems down the road should never get in the way of painting. Use whatever materials are most accessible and useful for you and if your work is ever in a museum let the conservators figure it out. I have two paintings of mine from the early 90s that are on stretched canvas with thick 1/4 inch strokes of paint and they have not cracked at all. The most important thing is to paint and help make the world a more beautiful place for all of us.
@@masteroilpainting Thank you very much for your answer and i really appreciate your professional work.
You can paint completely solvent free with traditional oil paint brands. No need for water miscible oils. Instead of rags, I use a canvas to wipe my brushes while painting. This lets any heat dissipate and minimizes any fire hazard. If I do need to wipe my brushes or palette I use bathroom tissue which can be safely flushed. And I use earth pigments so it’s safe for the environment. You can learn more about solvent free painting in this video. :) Hope it helps. czcams.com/video/2gMDf1Bwo9o/video.html