Is this the Cheapest & Easiest Retrobrite Method?
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2024
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1) Temp should be set to 45-50c, above this and you risk deforming the plastic even with it underwater. ABS (this console is ABS) and most plastics used for products like this have a deformation temperature of 100c.
2) No reason to set in the sun if you are using a heat source, the heat is the real catalyst, not UV. As plastics actually yellow while still in their box with no UV exposure and packed away in a hot environment like an attic.
3) Try doing it the vaportbright method. Instead of submerging the parts put them above the mix on a rack (you can use about half the water mix you used), and seal the container (not air tight as you need to allow the vapor to escape and not come under pressure) and let the peroxide vapor that occurs from the heat reaction do it's job, this eliminates any marbling. This process does take longer, but way more consistent.
I've found that full immersion in 12% hydrogen peroxide, in a container wrapped with UV LEDs and aluminum foil, is easy, effective, and super reliable. And a vertically-oriented container is optimal for console shells. (Like the tall skinny 5L kitchen containers meant for stuff like cereal.)
I'm also using this method. Best results and easy to do. It just needs some time.
It’s really hard to get liquid hydrogen peroxide in most places
Australia you can only buy 250ml at about $10
@@Slot1Gamer Ah, I suppose that tracks; We play it a bit fast and loose with what chemicals one can acquire over the counter here in MURKA. 😏
Well, the rest should hold true though; Those vertical 5 liter containers are the optimal scenario for treating console shells. And any combination of UV and heat in conjunction with the hydrogen-saturated solution will reverse the chemical reaction which causes yellowing. I'd rather rely on UV though, as too much heat could warp the plastic. (As it is, I found that the UV LED strips got the H2O2 concerningly warm. It felt like a good 45ºC minimum, and that was through heavy dishwashing gloves.)
I don’t understand the 12% bit. What is the other 88%? Water?
@@lupinthirdpretty much yes
I got an old SNES and use the hair salon paste that I got from Amazon. My mistake was to left it outside for 45 minutes during a hot day. When I finally remembered it the small plastic for the cartridge got too hot that it warped. Even thought the system got whitened.
Lesson learned for me is to be in the safe side to not to use the sun for it on a hot day or use the UV light method, where I seen a video where they use a container with UV light strips.
I find that the vapor method has a much more consistent effect. Much easier to deal with too. Less volume of liquid and a very small amount of peroxide used per batch.
I can’t seem to find plain liquid hydrogen peroxide here which is the main reason for going with this instead.
I’m not sure why
What % you used?
@@Slot1Gamertry medical stores
Any video that shows the vapor method?
Just be carefull with vapour method as if condesation droplet falls onto plastick it will leave white spot which you will never be able to even out. I used to love vapour method till it happend to me. After that I am using only submersion method, it is safe and it whiten everything evenly.
What size bag of sodium percarbonate did you add?
About 500 grams 😅
@Slot1Gamer have you tried again with less to see what results you get? Maybe 250 grams or less? Trying to see if this is the more affordable route or not.
@Hova I will try again, when I do I’ll post on the community tab
I use to do PC repair in the early 90s and the yellowing was not the plastic but cigarette smoke, this why it is inconsistent ie outside is more yellow then internal.
I’ve had my own stuff turn yellow and I don’t smoke
I think for the bezel not seeming to brighten, it could be because of the silk screening used to put the letters on. The company could have placed a protective "film" that sealed the top layer of plastic and the retrobright simply didn't dissolve the Bromide underneath the layer. When I do relettering for consoles, I usually use a letter tracing as close to the original letters. Spray them on with a hobby air paint sprayer, then a clear coat to protect them once dried.
Edit: As for you not being able to get hydrogen peroxide, it's due to EU (Also NZ and Aus) regulations because of its unpleasant and harmful side effects of prolonged use. They don't know you're using it for another reason. Sorry for the answer.
I’ve honestly had success with an aquarium heater, 2 overhead UV lamps and believe it or not, 3% peroxide. Yes it took way longer, about 3 days, but my super NES looked new.
Yea that's what I do, sometimes takes a day or two but everything I've pulled looks brand new at the end of the process, no marbling. Aluminum turkey pans with the clear plastic lids, line the aluminum with UV LED strips and use the clear lids for your peroxide bath. Set it and forget it. You could literally forget it too and you won't over bleach it too, the 3 percent stuff isn't strong enough to ruin it especially since it loses effectiveness over time.
To do this or not, I've never pulled the trigger because of how it has been shown to re-yellow and do so worse (also maybe make the plastics brittle.) But like you said, it's a hotly debated topic. I've even seen one study which said it's not the fire retardent, but the amount of moisture in the air and heat level where the device is being stored which triggers it.
This is true, my amiga 1200 case returned to yellow after four years, but settled lighter than before. Another 4 years on it never changed. Was it worth it? It used to look like a dirty urinal so Id say so
i just stuck my dmg gameboy case in two large bottles of peroxide I got at the dollar general in a clear plastic container and left it in a bay window for 4 days. 2$ and looks brand new
nice nice !
Sadly its hard to get just liquid peroxide a lot of places outside the US
With the sodium one just add a acid like acetate like vinager it will help with whitening and then break down so the h2o2 will be free.
I tried sodium percarbonate years ago and the results were unsatisfactory, with marbling and bleaching of the plastics. Maybe the concentration was too high, per your comment in the video, but I now stick to using hydrogen peroxide.
Me too. The marbling and altered surface texture made me never use this method again.
Would love to see how you dye plastic.
i def want to see with different mixes and settings to see the different results, maybe get some yellowed keyboards to experiment on or something
Yeah I do want to try a few more things with it too
Bro near my place not pCB service how to make without PCB mini Compaq ps 2 Bluetooth receiver make one video please
Try to finish the plastic with some WD40. Wipe it off w/ a tissue or some toilet paper until it doesn't feel oily and slippery anymore. On some of my plastic devices that gets rid of the "ashy" look. Nice video BTW. :)
Some pool h2o2 is 35%. The blue bottle big company is 27%. But it come with a bottle you do not need.
Retrobrighting with just Sun? Lightbrighting! ▼ Read description FAQ
Retro Recipes
May 4, 2019
czcams.com/video/8P1OVj0IcqY/video.html
Never had anything go yellow. I have 2 super famicom consoles that still look new. It's a strange phenomenon
I've been using hair bleach for about a decade now with 7/10 overall results. Just make sure you get ALL the air bubbles out of the plastic when wrapping, and you'll have a decent result.
I'm actually looking to do the opposite. I have modern white casings that I'd like to make yellow to make them intentionally look retro ^^ Any tips?
Maybe plastic dye ?
Or take up smoking 😅
Is there not a risk of corrosion on the water heater though with this method? One of the issues with 12% hydrogen peroxide is that it's highly corrosive, but as sodium percarbonate breaks down, it produces both sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide, is this still not a concern?
I haven’t noticed any corrosion yet, it is stainless steel (I don’t know what grade)
But I think rinsing and drying after use should prevent it happening quickly
did you think of adding in liquid hydrogen peroxide? like 3%, maybe 1 or 2 bottles with the amount of water? probably would have stopped that marbling effect?
Well that’s what’s in the water already, sodium percarbonate has hydrogen peroxide.
I think the marbling is due to having too high concentration
@@Slot1Gamer i understand its in the percarbonate :) its probably a small amount? thats why i suggested adding some 3% like a bottle
The cheapest method is the cheap 16oz bottle at Walmart that's $1.20 and a gallon or quart size freezer bag fill it up until the item is submerged and put it out in the sun and rotate it checking it out periodically through the day. You might end up doing this for 2-3 days wearing gloves when the hydrogen peroxide gets heated up it can start to do stuff in the plastic like expanding in the bag and somehow escaping it, so wear gloves when doing it. My gameboy I did came out excellent! Wish I can share some pictures of my process far cheaper than this video. Best part is you can pour the hydrogen peroxide back into the bottle from the ziplock bag to store and attempt to reuse it for other stuff in the future, if you only have one item to do.
Can’t get hydrogen peroxide easily outside North America
Look at pools and spas non chlorine bromine.
maybe try hydro dipping the unit
That would be cool, I’ve always wanted to try
I want to see it dyed.
Ho una keyboard praticamente nuova,che da quando lo comprata non ha mai visto il sole ne luce ambientale,e' ingiallita e sono certo che sia colpa dell'alto calore ambientale estivo,questa e' l'unica spiegazione plausibile
It’s possible I think
I would call that result a failure - maybe try again and see if you can dial it in?
Yeah I think i went too strong with it, plus this snes was pretty brown compared to others i have seen.
Next time im going to go slow and low :)
Will it get yellow again over time and does this weaken the plastic quality?
There is a possibility of it coming back.
As for the plastic, its surface level so I guess you could say it’s weakened but not all the way through, just the surface layer (as the texture has changed)
@@Slot1Gamer Thanks for the video. I wonder if there is something that can be sprayed onto the plastic after the Retrobrite which will help the plastic stay its gray color and prevent the plastic from getting brittle.
Some people will use a clear coat paint or some kind of protectant oil like WD40
How long does it take until it turns yellow again?
I think that’s going to be case (no pun intended haha) specific
As your environment and the plastic mix you have can vary.
Having said that maybe using a sealant like clear coat or some kind of light oil may prevent it from happening again
The best method is 12% H2O2 and a UV light that produces heat. Submerge and wait 24 hours and boom, perfect retrobriting.
I can’t get liquid hydrogen peroxide here for some reason
Some have simply put the plastic outside in sunlight.
The early Famicom systems are a pain to retrobrite. You either get marveling, or it won’t brighten at all. I’ve tried all the different ways, and there is no way to get a consistent results.
interesting, thanks for the insight 😀
I think that those white spots will never go away.
Probably bleached 😕
The real question is what color or colors should you dye the console.
What do you think of tie dye
@@Slot1Gamer that would be very unique looking. It could be quite fun.
I restored my Tower Fan with hydrogen peroxide
I used to import PC Engines and used bleach.
Like laundry chlorine bleach?
@@Slot1Gamer Yes and Mr Magic eraser pads, whatever you use be careful not to damage the logo/decal.
i want it anodized candy red.
Imagine that 💎