As a former engineer with Nissan North America, (Smyrna Tennessee) I tell everyone who works on Nissans /infinity to use OEM parts the tolerances are very specific and most aftermarket gets close but not close enough , great job 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
Why do they not code the u codes better lol. It's always a generic u1000 and never a specific way to identify what module lost communication. It makes intermittent can bus faults extremely hard to diagnose.
@@autodiagytThe answer is always $$$$. In this case I'm sure the decision was made higher up to force more revenue through dealer service and part departments
It took me 4 sensors, from 3 different sources, to find one that worked. (and the codes were switched between cam and crank) The one that "fails" is the one that's making the "difference" during operation. Crazy and annoying logic.
I would understand the tight tolerance talk for bearings, rings, valves, etc. A cam or cranck sensor, no. If it is reluctance, hall or magnetoresistance, all of them can operate at big distance (3~5mm) without issues, and even provide reliable detecting with changing distance +/- 2mm.
Gotta love how thorough you are at verifying your diagnosis. As you clearly show, it's not very difficult to prove that wiring and even the module is fine. The bonus was when the new sensor didn't work straight out the box, air gap, ha ha.
Bernie Thompson training, as the air gap increases linearly, the signal weakens exponentially. Wish you had time to put out more videos Brother, cheers.
I agree. With aftermarket electronic parts it's 50/50 at best. However, what do you do when the OEM says "No Longer Available???" Then it becomes a hope and a prayer. Good one Jake.
Clear , straight to the point , everything shown , everything explained , diagnostic proven out with test evidence - this is the best !! Merry Christmas Jake !
Aftermarket sensors, especially the important ones are 50/50 for failure rate out of the box. Even oem parts nowdays can be bad out of the box. Thanks for sharing buddy.
I had the same dilemma 2 weeks ago where on a Nissan Armada the Camshaft Position Sensor was failed. I pulled out that Plastic Square style Sensor. Went to the dealership and asked for a Camshaft Sensor via the VIN and they gave my that metal barrel sensor, the package even said Crank Sensor but counter reps confired it was a labling error but it indeed was the Camshaft Sensor. Installed it and got good Camshaft signal. Im guessing it was updated design.
I appreciate you getting out in cold and doing this video. I have learned my lesson with vw audi. Bought a coolant fan controller non oem. I started having completely unrelated codes show up.
As an engineer that has been down to board level ECM repairs, sir, I admire your skill! Man, I want some of those tools! As I generally tell people, to 'really' fix modern vehicles, you nearly need to be an EE. I don't know your background but you are the kind of guy on the level. I actually stumbled into your channel trying to help someone with a diesel Silverado, no codes, reduced power, and I just sent the guy your vid....lol Easier than having to explain. You have my absolute respect in what you do! You have to be a mechanic/EE/computer programmer, sort of rolled into one to really hammer things down. I really only take on the "dealer can't fix this" cases, but I don't do it for a living like you. I LOVE an electrical challenge but always handicapped with a lack of data. Hell, I don't even have a fun automotive filtered scope like you! Just a decent battery powered 2ch. When time is money, I get it!
I feel like this is becoming all too common these days. I mean, it’s just so discouraging. You could have the most diligent diagnostic tech on the job but multiple bad new sensors will throw even the best through loop. It’s just very frustrating, I deal with the same thing. Like I said more and more lately and just what a bummer lol. I don’t really know what else to say about it. But somethings gotta give, I wish there was a way to force these aftermarket companies to provide better parts. Because not only is it a waste of our time, it’s a waste of the customers money.. keep up the good work, brother!
I suspect this will be back again after the battery runs down or it gets colder outside. The PCM actually will communicate cranking on this truck. When it does I recommend just scope a 5vref. If it isn't rock solid during cranking it has failed. You can likely get it to start with 200A boost charge and recreate by leaving the headlamps on. These always come in when it's cold and have the U codes. They will trick you with goofy ckp cmp behavior when this pcm failure occurs. I enjoy your content keep up the good work!
This was clearly just a dead crank sensor and I've seen a lot of these modules not communicate during crank. The u1000 was history and didn't reset. We the the owner was unplugging things with the key on and set the code.
Hey Jake I'm not saying it isn't a bad sensor I'm just saying it has a fault with the pcm as well. I've had several do this. I collect known good scan data including Start-up data on most cars I scan. That vehicle will communicate during cranking. The processor gets an internal Volt drop or something so instead of 10V during cranking it actually see much less. It's easily observed externally watching a 5V circuit. If Nissan diagnostics was a country it would be 3rd world
Good catch, Jake! Seems you did have a gap problem. Aftermarket crap ensures you keep buying, in the hope you get lucky (casino like) - pretty expensive "cheap" parts.
I was having trouble with my Topdon scan tool on an 07 Nissan as well, same thing.. ## on the live data PIDs. and it was running. When I tried to save the data, those are the symbols I got when I looked at the file afterwards.
Thats what I thought the second I saw those ## symbols on your topdon, and then you explained it. I was all upset I had lost the live data because it was pre-repair I needed for the customer. Nissans are frustrating for sure.@@autodiagyt
Your notion GARBAGE 🗑 about nissan is spot on..its a nightmare to diagnose it through codes all over system just because of one thing which does not relate to the actual issue..great diag cheers jake😊
@11:30, when you were doing your sensor unplugged testing, and verified the signal wire was not shorted to ground, you still had not tested for an open wire to the pcm. While you were applying 12v to the signal wire, a quick glance at the scan tool should've shown some rpm signal. I'm surprised the pcm didn't prime the fuel pump or randomly fire an injector/ingition coil when it saw some (artificial) engine speed. I suppose the magnet test was an alternative way to prove the sensor itself was bad, but seeing the scan tool pid move would've given me more confidence in the call. Either way, great video!
I wasn’t to worried about the signal wire once I seen one sensor stuck low and one stuck high and no switching out of either that confirmed the sensors was bad if I had of gotten switching out of one of them then yes I would have checked the circuit end to end. With the new sensor I did hear the fuel pump prime but I doubt you can hear it in the video.
oh yes oem parts for sure may pay a bit more dollar but generally they do tend to work 🤪 man that dam can com fault , such a wooly description, just had one this week hvac losing com with scug done the due diligence tests hvac was all working fine , followed the data . luck enough the car in front had the same config so swapped out the hvac control module and dtc cleared . must have been my lucky day having that car in front to try the module although i was pretty confident it was the module itself throwing a none existent code
Awesome video man. Just one question. The voltage is positive on cam sensor signal and once the vehicle starts, its a square wave. That would make cam sensor pull down or pull up sensor?
I suspect this will be back again after the battery runs down or it gets colder outside. The PCM actually will communicate cranking on this truck. When it does I recommend just scope a 5vref. If it isn't rock solid during cranking it has failed. You can likely get it to start with 200A boost charge and recreate by leaving the headlamps on. These always come in when it's cold and have the U codes. They will trick you with goofy ckp cmp behavior when this pcm failure occurs. I enjoy your content keep up the good work!
These sensors are active sensors (Hall effect). They must have a power supply to work, they have analog electronics like Schmitt trigger where we get the digital signal. Schmitt trigger has two voltage limits (Hysteresis) such as 2 volts as a lower limit and 8 volts as an upper limit. And depending on the flow of charge carriers which depend on the movement of the magnet can generate a negative or positive voltage. When we have a positive voltage, in that case, the upper limit of the Schmitt trigger will be passed and the output of the sensor will be 12 volts until the lower limit of the Schmitt trigger is passed. Also, the Schmitt trigger is used in these sensors for sharp transitions from 0 to 12 and vice versa, so that switch debouncing does not occur. This means that the sensor can be at both high and low voltage levels and remain at that level as long as schmitt trigger limits are not exceeded.
AWESOME THOUGHT PROCESS AND APPROACH JAKE, REALLY THIS ISSUE COULD THROUGH ALOT OF PEOPLE IN ALOOP AND TEL CHAESE THANKS FOR SHARING AND MERRY XRSMAS FROM CANADA. CHEEEEERS
great diag , glad your using topdon scope i have one too pretty pleased with it , thanks Jake Merry Xmas to you and all your family and everyone who watches your cool channel
Light weight jack you say? They have 5ton scissors jack used for mobile home stability on Amazon.. I have one and used it to lift a Mitsubishi suv to do a brake job.. I couple it with a impact and had it desired hight in 3sec ( NASCAR speed). This scissors jacket weights no more than 10pounds or less. Of course i would place a jack stand next to it.
I still don't really know how to use it lol. It's easier to get out and use then the pico. I'm still not sure if it buffers pages or if what's on the screen is all you got. It almost seems the opposite of snap on. What you get on the screen is what you have then you zoom in for detail. It will eat up your scan tool battery if left running. When I get familiar with it I'll do a review video about it.
That was a great video. Super informative. I have to ask you, while the Crank sensor was bad and while you were cranking it the Crank hole time, was the theft security light for immobilizer flashing? Thanks
got called on a nissan elgrand over fueling was told they put new maf on it (aftermarket) i asked for another maf they got another sealed stayed the same over fueling finaly they got a nissan oe maf it was cheaper that the aftermarket and it sorted the problem oe always from now on
Hello Jake, good job like always, I got question, I got 05 titan and I got PCM code u1000 and no communication with TCM, I checked powers and grounds and everything looks fine,, you think I have bad PCM ???
I really don't know what to tell you. I've seen older Nissans have modules that talk to each other but don't talk to a scan tool. That TCM is on CAN bus and K line. Nissan isn't something I'm ever confident in when it comes to diagnostics. It seems like the normal for everyone else is the opposite of what they do. I honestly will take diagnosing a Mercedes or bmw over a Nissan any day. They are just not made to diagnose.
You should keep records of which vehicles do not have a TACH signal prior to actually starting if you are going to use this info for diagnosis of a CKP, not all cars have a TACH signal at cranking speeds. New vehicles the TACH does not move until the entire Cluster wakes up after the engine starts, some will do a sweep test on engine start and then give a correct TACH signal, cheers.
Just pulled it out and put it back. It has a rubber o-ring on it and I might have not gotten it seated completely flat the first time. It was hard to push in the first time and when I pulled it out and pushed it back in it went a lot easier so I’m guessing the dry o-ring was keeping it pushed back some.
Thank you for explaining... ps I am really enjoying your channel, very informative . You are right up there with DAN,KEITH,ERIC,IVAN ETC ETC @@autodiagyt
To add insult to injury, some customers have been returning parts to the stores for refunds with the used, defective parts in the box. With all the young 'parts professionals' in the stores now, these generally go unnoticed until someone else buys the part. I can't remember how many times I've had to deal with this. Fortunately most of the folks at my parts store know me by name and don't give me a hard time when it happens.
The problem is the pcm doesn't control the starter if I remember right so it doesn't even know the starter is running. It's just looking for ignition voltage and a crank signal to start firing coils and injectors.
@@autodiagyt nissans always have stupid no code problems. Ten years ago had nissan maxima that wouldn’t go over 30. The problem was a back where speed sensor in the abs. Abs would not set code but you looked at data and it showed zero rpms. Didnt set codes yet most abs systems will. Also, that slowed the car down into limp mode. Garbage engineering
They was history codes and not sure if the customer had been unplugging things but there was no issue with the comm lines. It’s important to stay focused on the job “crank no start” and follow the data.
I have the same problem. Replaced the ecu, Ipdm, cam and crank sensor and still didn’t solve the problem. Also when I fill up the gas always spill. I’ve own this truck from new was great then but now it’s becoming a nightmare
👏👏👏👏👏 Congrats on your success! How long were you at this diag from start to finish (minus video recording time...I know setup and narration takes a minute)? Cheers.
what did the cold have to do with it, I bought an aftermarket sensor worked great now at 25 degree weather it will not start?? when it warms up again it starts like a champ, I noticed that the MPG goes -- - - - resets when I crack it and won't start, this other guy took the battery inside the house and let it warm up lol and started the truck, now he said get an 800 CCA battery, I just bought mine and the truck calls for a 700 CCA and that's what I got I also saw the intelligent distribution panel (I think that's what is called) get swapped from the white one to the upgraded black one, I already have a black one I believe they say it is the relay to the ECM that will not work when it is cold something about the resin melting in it, but hope this helps someone, I bought a new relay I hope that fixes my problem. the last time it did this I tried replacing the relay but the cover from the relay broke in pieces when I was pulling it out so I left it in, I went in and I cranked it right after that and it started first try and have not had an issue until this morning at 25 degrees, IDK I got the relay now hope that is the bad part. Hope this helps someone.
thanks for sharing crappy aftermarket parts again. electrical oem is the only way to go. well 95% of the time you can still get a dud every once in a while.
It’s the addon scope. So far I’m liking it. Not as detailed or user friendly as pico software but it’s better than the snapon scope and for the price it’s pretty good.
Here's where I personally, have a problem. When the temperature is below my age,,, not happening. Nothing worse than ending up with sticky numb fingers, and not knowing where the blood is coming from...
I don’t discuss dollar amounts but this was diagnosed in under a hour counting filming and research. Realistically this would have been diagnosed in about 20 minutes using a uscope if I wasn’t doing a video on it.
That's interesting is it a you tube thing, cuz I'm john q customer and it seems like nobody talks money, well here's lil fun fact for you, Jan 1 2024, all you tube and tic tak platforms, will allow u to send in content, but no longer will be paying any one, I wonder how many folks will still want to teach me how to diag something or replace a headlight, I've been tech since 1985 and always been curious, are these folks hurting or helping our industry, guy or gal has no idea how or what but they know they can do it, or auto zone scans car for free, I pull into a garage why is it also not for free, it's just questions not really bitchn. But pisses me off in some respects, and not so much in other respects,
@@charlesmecum5009 I don’t discuss money because labor rates shouldn’t be based on what someone else charges. They should be based on what your company needs to be profitable and the level of quality work being performed. Not only that but the area also plays a big factor in what labor rates are. I’m in a small rural town with a median income of 25k. My labor rate is higher than every shop and dealership in my area, but as an industry average I’m on the low side of the scale. So I don’t discuss dollar amounts because it shouldn’t be used to compare what other shops charge or as a negotiating tactic but a customer.
@@charlesmecum5009 as for CZcams they do not pay content creators, Google Adsense does and I’ve not gotten anything stating any changes to ad revenue so I’m not sure where you got that information from. But to answer your question if ad revenue went away content creators would still make content but with sponsorship. I didn’t start the channel to make money from it, it’s for professional techs to learn and better their diagnostic skills.
we need to be honest when we make rocky mistakes it was not an air gap you just needed to cycle the ignition on and off erase the codes and crank it specially with a nissan ecm
If I remember correctly I had the scope still connected when it wouldn't crank with the new sensor and it wasn't showing a pattern. It was definitely a air gap issue.
As a former engineer with Nissan North America, (Smyrna Tennessee) I tell everyone who works on Nissans /infinity to use OEM parts the tolerances are very specific and most aftermarket gets close but not close enough , great job 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
Why do they not code the u codes better lol. It's always a generic u1000 and never a specific way to identify what module lost communication. It makes intermittent can bus faults extremely hard to diagnose.
@@autodiagytThe answer is always $$$$. In this case I'm sure the decision was made higher up to force more revenue through dealer service and part departments
It took me 4 sensors, from 3 different sources, to find one that worked. (and the codes were switched between cam and crank) The one that "fails" is the one that's making the "difference" during operation. Crazy and annoying logic.
I would understand the tight tolerance talk for bearings, rings, valves, etc. A cam or cranck sensor, no. If it is reluctance, hall or magnetoresistance, all of them can operate at big distance (3~5mm) without issues, and even provide reliable detecting with changing distance +/- 2mm.
It’s not only Nissan, pretty much all brands if it comes to sensors, always highly recommend to use OEM especially EU cars.
Gotta love how thorough you are at verifying your diagnosis. As you clearly show, it's not very difficult to prove that wiring and even the module is fine. The bonus was when the new sensor didn't work straight out the box, air gap, ha ha.
Bernie Thompson training, as the air gap increases linearly, the signal weakens exponentially. Wish you had time to put out more videos Brother, cheers.
I agree. With aftermarket electronic parts it's 50/50 at best.
However, what do you do when the OEM says "No Longer Available???"
Then it becomes a hope and a prayer.
Good one Jake.
Buy used.
Clear , straight to the point , everything shown , everything explained , diagnostic proven out with test evidence - this is the best !! Merry Christmas Jake !
Aftermarket sensors, especially the important ones are 50/50 for failure rate out of the box. Even oem parts nowdays can be bad out of the box.
Thanks for sharing buddy.
I had the same dilemma 2 weeks ago where on a Nissan Armada the Camshaft Position Sensor was failed. I pulled out that Plastic Square style Sensor. Went to the dealership and asked for a Camshaft Sensor via the VIN and they gave my that metal barrel sensor, the package even said Crank Sensor but counter reps confired it was a labling error but it indeed was the Camshaft Sensor. Installed it and got good Camshaft signal. Im guessing it was updated design.
one of the best videos ive seen. Natural teacher
Glad you think so!
I appreciate you getting out in cold and doing this video. I have learned my lesson with vw audi. Bought a coolant fan controller non oem. I started having completely unrelated codes show up.
Thanks for showing how you tested crank sensors and to use oem. parts. Great info!
Nice video and diagnosis. Looks like you have a bit of a cold snap going on.
That's one big thing I love about my gmc sierra 2500hd. You have the ability to read and delete dtc while the truck is running.
Great work. There is a design change over the years due to oil leaking into the sensor and damaging the sensor
As an engineer that has been down to board level ECM repairs, sir, I admire your skill! Man, I want some of those tools! As I generally tell people, to 'really' fix modern vehicles, you nearly need to be an EE. I don't know your background but you are the kind of guy on the level. I actually stumbled into your channel trying to help someone with a diesel Silverado, no codes, reduced power, and I just sent the guy your vid....lol Easier than having to explain. You have my absolute respect in what you do! You have to be a mechanic/EE/computer programmer, sort of rolled into one to really hammer things down. I really only take on the "dealer can't fix this" cases, but I don't do it for a living like you. I LOVE an electrical challenge but always handicapped with a lack of data. Hell, I don't even have a fun automotive filtered scope like you! Just a decent battery powered 2ch. When time is money, I get it!
Great lesson, learned jake,. But could that explain why your scanner was loosing engine data pit with the pcm?
That is an old Nissan thing. All of my scantools even Nissan consult with vi3 doesn’t keep comm when the key changes position.
OEM for sure especially on a Nissan 😊😊👍👍
I feel like this is becoming all too common these days. I mean, it’s just so discouraging. You could have the most diligent diagnostic tech on the job but multiple bad new sensors will throw even the best through loop. It’s just very frustrating, I deal with the same thing. Like I said more and more lately and just what a bummer lol. I don’t really know what else to say about it. But somethings gotta give, I wish there was a way to force these aftermarket companies to provide better parts. Because not only is it a waste of our time, it’s a waste of the customers money.. keep up the good work, brother!
I suspect this will be back again after the battery runs down or it gets colder outside. The PCM actually will communicate cranking on this truck. When it does I recommend just scope a 5vref. If it isn't rock solid during cranking it has failed. You can likely get it to start with 200A boost charge and recreate by leaving the headlamps on. These always come in when it's cold and have the U codes. They will trick you with goofy ckp cmp behavior when this pcm failure occurs. I enjoy your content keep up the good work!
This was clearly just a dead crank sensor and I've seen a lot of these modules not communicate during crank. The u1000 was history and didn't reset. We the the owner was unplugging things with the key on and set the code.
Hey Jake I'm not saying it isn't a bad sensor I'm just saying it has a fault with the pcm as well. I've had several do this. I collect known good scan data including Start-up data on most cars I scan. That vehicle will communicate during cranking. The processor gets an internal Volt drop or something so instead of 10V during cranking it actually see much less. It's easily observed externally watching a 5V circuit.
If Nissan diagnostics was a country it would be 3rd world
Good catch, Jake! Seems you did have a gap problem. Aftermarket crap ensures you keep buying, in the hope you get lucky (casino like) - pretty expensive "cheap" parts.
Get yourself a cheap little ton and a half portable floor jack , and dont forget jack stands . Lady wants you to come home after work 😊
Ivan had one of these that the pcm was bad. And it wouldn't turn on when the pcm was cold.
Make sure the converter is still hooked to the flywheel.
I was having trouble with my Topdon scan tool on an 07 Nissan as well, same thing.. ## on the live data PIDs. and it was running. When I tried to save the data, those are the symbols I got when I looked at the file afterwards.
It's a Nissan thing not a scan tool issue. Older Nissan stops all communication when the key position is changed.
Thats what I thought the second I saw those ## symbols on your topdon, and then you explained it. I was all upset I had lost the live data because it was pre-repair I needed for the customer. Nissans are frustrating for sure.@@autodiagyt
Its a redesigned sensor.nissan did this with the cam and crank sensors. Nissan vehicles do like like after market crank and cam sensors
Your notion GARBAGE 🗑 about nissan is spot on..its a nightmare to diagnose it through codes all over system just because of one thing which does not relate to the actual issue..great diag cheers jake😊
A crank code means cam sensor. A cam code means crank sensor... Annoying.
Just did Altima Cam & Crank. Both sensors came out made of plastic.
Oem replacements were metal and the same part number.
Nice video
شكرا لك انا استفدت كثيرا من هذا الفيديو هل احصل علي اثنين من الحساس لدي نفس المشكلة
@11:30, when you were doing your sensor unplugged testing, and verified the signal wire was not shorted to ground, you still had not tested for an open wire to the pcm. While you were applying 12v to the signal wire, a quick glance at the scan tool should've shown some rpm signal. I'm surprised the pcm didn't prime the fuel pump or randomly fire an injector/ingition coil when it saw some (artificial) engine speed. I suppose the magnet test was an alternative way to prove the sensor itself was bad, but seeing the scan tool pid move would've given me more confidence in the call. Either way, great video!
I wasn’t to worried about the signal wire once I seen one sensor stuck low and one stuck high and no switching out of either that confirmed the sensors was bad if I had of gotten switching out of one of them then yes I would have checked the circuit end to end. With the new sensor I did hear the fuel pump prime but I doubt you can hear it in the video.
oh yes oem parts for sure may pay a bit more dollar but generally they do tend to work 🤪 man that dam can com fault , such a wooly description, just had one this week hvac losing com with scug done the due diligence tests hvac was all working fine , followed the data . luck enough the car in front had the same config so swapped out the hvac control module and dtc cleared . must have been my lucky day having that car in front to try the module although i was pretty confident it was the module itself throwing a none existent code
Good as always.👍 Stay warm!!
Merry Christmas
Awesome video man. Just one question. The voltage is positive on cam sensor signal and once the vehicle starts, its a square wave. That would make cam sensor pull down or pull up sensor?
The ECM didn't have a bias voltage so the sensor is pulling it up.
I suspect this will be back again after the battery runs down or it gets colder outside. The PCM actually will communicate cranking on this truck. When it does I recommend just scope a 5vref. If it isn't rock solid during cranking it has failed. You can likely get it to start with 200A boost charge and recreate by leaving the headlamps on. These always come in when it's cold and have the U codes. They will trick you with goofy ckp cmp behavior when this pcm failure occurs. I enjoy your content keep up the good work!
These sensors are active sensors (Hall effect). They must have a power supply to work, they have analog electronics like Schmitt trigger where we get the digital signal. Schmitt trigger has two voltage limits (Hysteresis) such as 2 volts as a lower limit and 8 volts as an upper limit. And depending on the flow of charge carriers which depend on the movement of the magnet can generate a negative or positive voltage. When we have a positive voltage, in that case, the upper limit of the Schmitt trigger will be passed and the output of the sensor will be 12 volts until the lower limit of the Schmitt trigger is passed. Also, the Schmitt trigger is used in these sensors for sharp transitions from 0 to 12 and vice versa, so that switch debouncing does not occur. This means that the sensor can be at both high and low voltage levels and remain at that level as long as schmitt trigger limits are not exceeded.
AWESOME THOUGHT PROCESS AND APPROACH JAKE, REALLY THIS ISSUE COULD THROUGH ALOT OF PEOPLE IN ALOOP AND TEL CHAESE THANKS FOR SHARING AND MERRY XRSMAS FROM CANADA. CHEEEEERS
Thank you, I benefited a lot from this video. Do I get two sensors? I have the same problem.
Are you testing the circuits with a scope?
great diag , glad your using topdon scope i have one too pretty pleased with it , thanks Jake Merry Xmas to you and all your family and everyone who watches your cool channel
Thanks man merry Christmas to you as well.
Light weight jack you say? They have 5ton scissors jack used for mobile home stability on Amazon.. I have one and used it to lift a Mitsubishi suv to do a brake job.. I couple it with a impact and had it desired hight in 3sec ( NASCAR speed). This scissors jacket weights no more than 10pounds or less. Of course i would place a jack stand next to it.
I would be worried about a scissor jack on dirt and gravel like I’m usually working on. I also just don’t have room in my van for anything else lol.
Great diag, Thanks for sharing! How are you enjoying the TopDon Scope?
I still don't really know how to use it lol. It's easier to get out and use then the pico. I'm still not sure if it buffers pages or if what's on the screen is all you got. It almost seems the opposite of snap on. What you get on the screen is what you have then you zoom in for detail. It will eat up your scan tool battery if left running. When I get familiar with it I'll do a review video about it.
@@autodiagyt Thanks; I guess I'll wait on your review before I spend the money😀
Great Stuff. No workshop, real shit outdoor cold weather but job well done. ❄❄❄👍👍👍
Great video, explained every step
That was a great video. Super informative. I have to ask you, while the Crank sensor was bad and while you were cranking it the Crank hole time, was the theft security light for immobilizer flashing? Thanks
I didn’t believe this truck has a chip key but it’s been a while so hard to remember.
Great diagnosis Jake! Thanks for sharing this.
Grasias
Yes sir happened to me after market won’t work on Nissan mostly needs original part god video I like it
got called on a nissan elgrand over fueling was told they put new maf on it (aftermarket) i asked for another maf they got another sealed stayed the same over fueling finaly they got a nissan oe maf it was cheaper that the aftermarket and it sorted the problem oe always from now on
Hello Jake, good job like always, I got question, I got 05 titan and I got PCM code u1000 and no communication with TCM, I checked powers and grounds and everything looks fine,, you think I have bad PCM ???
I really don't know what to tell you. I've seen older Nissans have modules that talk to each other but don't talk to a scan tool. That TCM is on CAN bus and K line. Nissan isn't something I'm ever confident in when it comes to diagnostics. It seems like the normal for everyone else is the opposite of what they do. I honestly will take diagnosing a Mercedes or bmw over a Nissan any day. They are just not made to diagnose.
This bad aftermarket parts problem has been extremely bad over the past few years. It's been ridiculous.
I work at Oreillys and that’s our brand 😅
Yep it is. O'Reilly's is my preferred parts store but the last 5 years the electrical parts are getting bad.
You should keep records of which vehicles do not have a TACH signal prior to actually starting if you are going to use this info for diagnosis of a CKP, not all cars have a TACH signal at cranking speeds. New vehicles the TACH does not move until the entire Cluster wakes up after the engine starts, some will do a sweep test on engine start and then give a correct TACH signal, cheers.
Good show, thanks. Merry Christmas ❤
How did you fix the air gap issue ?
Just pulled it out and put it back. It has a rubber o-ring on it and I might have not gotten it seated completely flat the first time. It was hard to push in the first time and when I pulled it out and pushed it back in it went a lot easier so I’m guessing the dry o-ring was keeping it pushed back some.
Thank you for explaining... ps I am really enjoying your channel, very informative . You are right up there with DAN,KEITH,ERIC,IVAN ETC ETC @@autodiagyt
To add insult to injury, some customers have been returning parts to the stores for refunds with the used, defective parts in the box. With all the young 'parts professionals' in the stores now, these generally go unnoticed until someone else buys the part. I can't remember how many times I've had to deal with this. Fortunately most of the folks at my parts store know me by name and don't give me a hard time when it happens.
I have experienced this many times, too.
Yep! Always use OEM! I'd rather spend $60 once than $35 3 or 4 times! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing
Yes indeed
An 08 nissan cant even set a code for a crank sensor… hahahaaha
Thats nissan
The problem is the pcm doesn't control the starter if I remember right so it doesn't even know the starter is running. It's just looking for ignition voltage and a crank signal to start firing coils and injectors.
@@autodiagyt nissans always have stupid no code problems. Ten years ago had nissan maxima that wouldn’t go over 30. The problem was a back where speed sensor in the abs. Abs would not set code but you looked at data and it showed zero rpms. Didnt set codes yet most abs systems will. Also, that slowed the car down into limp mode. Garbage engineering
Even my 2002 Suzuki sets a cam sensor code if you hold the key in crank and the engine doesn't spin 😂
Why didn't you go after the communication lines?
They was history codes and not sure if the customer had been unplugging things but there was no issue with the comm lines. It’s important to stay focused on the job “crank no start” and follow the data.
Merry Christmas !
How did you adjust the air gap problem
I think I just don't have it pushed in good and the o-ring seal was holding it off just a little.
I have the same problem. Replaced the ecu, Ipdm, cam and crank sensor and still didn’t solve the problem. Also when I fill up the gas always spill. I’ve own this truck from new was great then but now it’s becoming a nightmare
👏👏👏👏👏
Congrats on your success!
How long were you at this diag from start to finish (minus video recording time...I know setup and narration takes a minute)?
Cheers.
I can't remember.
Maybe an hour on the vehicle
Good old Nissans the Chrysler of Japan. And just like Chrysler if you don't use oem parts it's not gonna work.
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Nissan pids on scanners seem to read opposite of every other model of vehicles!
Hi, do you ever have a crank no start blown eccs fuse. 2004 nissan quest?
No I’ve not
Awesome another great educational video!
Just subscribe to the channel.
Nice Job!!!!!!
Never had a job that had bad parts fitted that were oem , do you find this ? always aftermarket ,
I’ve found a few bad new oem parts but it’s not often at all.
Is it a pull up or pull down sensor?
That answer is in the comments. Someone did a great write up on it.
In nissan cam and crank same..
Another cool video Jake.thanks
Good video bro
what did the cold have to do with it, I bought an aftermarket sensor worked great now at 25 degree weather it will not start?? when it warms up again it starts like a champ, I noticed that the MPG goes -- - - - resets when I crack it and won't start, this other guy took the battery inside the house and let it warm up lol and started the truck, now he said get an 800 CCA battery, I just bought mine and the truck calls for a 700 CCA and that's what I got I also saw the intelligent distribution panel (I think that's what is called) get swapped from the white one to the upgraded black one, I already have a black one I believe they say it is the relay to the ECM that will not work when it is cold something about the resin melting in it, but hope this helps someone, I bought a new relay I hope that fixes my problem. the last time it did this I tried replacing the relay but the cover from the relay broke in pieces when I was pulling it out so I left it in, I went in and I cranked it right after that and it started first try and have not had an issue until this morning at 25 degrees, IDK I got the relay now hope that is the bad part. Hope this helps someone.
The cold had nothing to do with the aftermarket sensor being bad out of the box.
Did you determine what the problem was?
Is it true all you need to do is replace the ECM due to bad soldering.
I’m not sure what you are referring to.
thanks for sharing crappy aftermarket parts again. electrical oem is the only way to go. well 95% of the time you can still get a dud every once in a while.
Throwing parts at it without recognizing wave patterns or at least comparing them. 😅
What scope is that you’re using, is it built into the topdon
It’s the addon scope. So far I’m liking it. Not as detailed or user friendly as pico software but it’s better than the snapon scope and for the price it’s pretty good.
What is the model of your topdon? Does it have an oscilloscope feature?
Topdon Phoenix Smart and yes I’m using the oscilloscope with it in this video.
Here's where I personally, have a problem. When the temperature is below my age,,, not happening.
Nothing worse than ending up with sticky numb fingers, and not knowing where the blood is coming from...
How much do u charge for this repair
I don’t discuss dollar amounts but this was diagnosed in under a hour counting filming and research. Realistically this would have been diagnosed in about 20 minutes using a uscope if I wasn’t doing a video on it.
@@autodiagyt
Thanks for creating this tutorial !!
That's interesting is it a you tube thing, cuz I'm john q customer and it seems like nobody talks money, well here's lil fun fact for you, Jan 1 2024, all you tube and tic tak platforms, will allow u to send in content, but no longer will be paying any one, I wonder how many folks will still want to teach me how to diag something or replace a headlight, I've been tech since 1985 and always been curious, are these folks hurting or helping our industry, guy or gal has no idea how or what but they know they can do it, or auto zone scans car for free, I pull into a garage why is it also not for free, it's just questions not really bitchn. But pisses me off in some respects, and not so much in other respects,
@@charlesmecum5009 I don’t discuss money because labor rates shouldn’t be based on what someone else charges. They should be based on what your company needs to be profitable and the level of quality work being performed. Not only that but the area also plays a big factor in what labor rates are. I’m in a small rural town with a median income of 25k. My labor rate is higher than every shop and dealership in my area, but as an industry average I’m on the low side of the scale. So I don’t discuss dollar amounts because it shouldn’t be used to compare what other shops charge or as a negotiating tactic but a customer.
@@charlesmecum5009 as for CZcams they do not pay content creators, Google Adsense does and I’ve not gotten anything stating any changes to ad revenue so I’m not sure where you got that information from. But to answer your question if ad revenue went away content creators would still make content but with sponsorship. I didn’t start the channel to make money from it, it’s for professional techs to learn and better their diagnostic skills.
Nissan is lot of issue when you got low battery hahaha all system fail after replacing battery, always need to use consult 3 to reset the whole system
Aftermarket parts = China....China taught me long ago...new does mean good anymore
we need to be honest when we make rocky mistakes it was not an air gap you just needed to cycle the ignition on and off erase the codes and crank it specially with a nissan ecm
If I remember correctly I had the scope still connected when it wouldn't crank with the new sensor and it wasn't showing a pattern. It was definitely a air gap issue.
@@autodiagyt if you had the scope still connected then my analogy was wrong indeed
Nissan absolute trash! Anyways stay warm Jake!
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