Scan Film With Nikon Bellow | Sony a7iii - Nikon PB-6 Bellows - Nikon 55mm f/2.8 micro lens
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 3. 09. 2020
- #digitizing #filmscan #analog
/ steventanno
Scan 35mm Black & White film.
Sony a7iii camera, Nikon PB-6 bellows, Nikon 55mm micro lens.
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Beautiful scanning process!
Steven, Great short movie feel on the video! A little tip. The PS-6 has a bellows that pulls out from the back and attaches to the lens. It's great for keeping stray light out. Also, on that note, you could just use a strobe with a standard reflector, without the octa and also reduce possible stray scatter while increasing the output. I'm using a bare Profoto B1 at 8" from the PS-6. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much. :)
Cinematic tutorial... Bravo!!!! Sergio Leone đŹđâïž
Thank you! :)
If they had TWO thumbs up, Iâd give you two thumbs up Steven. Itâs wonderful! I was always puzzled how to digitize the film. Thanks a million!
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Hi, Steve. Thank you for this very nice video! How are you able to make perfectly focused digitizations? Do you have a method of keeping the film negative perfectly flat, straight, and uncurled while it is in the PS-6 holder? The very slight curvature of the film in the holder (even in flatbed scanners) gives me focus and low depth-of-field problems. Does the reversed lens method solve this low depth of field problem by deepening the depth of field to cover the curved subject plane? The inability to achieve perfect focus over a slightly curved film negative topography (the subject in this case) has always been my biggest problem.
Hello! Enjoyed your video. I thrifted a Nikon bellows BP-5 and PS-5 copying adapter. Do you believe it's effective for negative scanning? Also, I'm looking to purchase a budget DSLR for this purpose. Any recommendations for a camera and lens?
Great work on the video, and very pleasing music, may I ask the name ?
Thanks - exactly what I wanted to see- if the PS6 can handle film also. Looks like you got good results even though there is no film holder to keep the film flat?
Thanks ïŒïŒ
Dear Steven, It's an amazing solution. Concise comes with precise. Mind if I know what do you think of using feasible speedflash instead of continuous illumination when film scanning? All your response will highly appreciated by me.
Thank you for your comments. I am not have a bright enough led light source can let me stop down to F8 or F16 with 1/125 speed, So flash is the best option.
I used to do this w/ Slides to film. It's awesome. What's an optimized mp & res if on a D3S or D750 & Nikkor 60mm f2.8D Micro?? Maximizing ISO-50 slide & not having RAW files so huge? Brilliant camera work & lighting.
I think 2.4 m is best for 35mm film scan. Thanks K!
Very poetic... Love to see your pictures somewhere.. As a photographer, do you think micro nikkor 55mm 2.8 is good for portraits and everyday pictures? Thank you!
Thanks for your comment. 55/2.8 is a fantastic lens, it's sharp and more nice edge quality. It very good for portraits but everyday shot I prefer 50/1.2 and 35/1.4 :)
@@StevenTanno thank you for your advice!
hi Steven I wanna know which is the best way to digitize films. this or using scanner?
of course, the best way is high end film scanner like Nikon 9000ED. but digitizing by digital camera is better than flat scanner and some film scanner. Thanks:)
Hi Steven, A great video that made me very interested in using PB-6 to scan film.
Is there any chance to explain how it works in more detail?
I also saw another video that you used a homemade light plate with paper box to scan.
Is there any difference in the effects of these two?
Which one do you prefer to use?
PB6 is easier to adjust the distance and angle when scanning 35mm film, and it is more stable. The DIY device can scan medium format film, which the PB-6 cannot. Flash is the best light source, so PB-6 works better, but DIY box cannot use flash and can only use LED lights. The color balance and brightness of LED light sources are not as good as flash light.
@StevenTanno
Thank you very much for your explanation.
I really like your videos very much, because your videos always keep me passionate about photography. I'm a graphic designer from Taiwan and very enjoy taking photos using film.
I currently use the Nikon F Photomatic FTN
which full of historical background,
Fully manual cameras are inconvenient but fun to use. Hope that have good chance to share my shooting to you
@@chanchinglung Many thanks. gteat cameras you are using.
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I've been getting bad results from this combination and I noticed your scans have the same problem. All around the edges the image has kind of a flare, the edges are lighter when convert to positive. That's due to the PS-6 edges around the matte white glass. The black metal edges create a little bit of a shadow on the white glass on the far edges sides, top and bottom. Those shadow become a white, like a flare, when you convert the negatives to positive. Now I'm looking for a different solution like the Nikon ES-2 or a Valoi easy35. I love Nikon products but the PS-6 is just a bad design that just doesn't work properly. They should have made the white glass area bigger to avoid shadows. Did you notice that flaw? If you just look as your pictures from this video you'll see. The problem is even more apparent with color negatives. Do you still use this set up or went for something else?
Yes I also have this issue.
Arty bollocks.....Useless
Another genius not explaining anything