How to tile a kitchen splashback part 1
Vložit
- čas přidán 20. 05. 2010
- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk brings you part one of two- How to tile a splashback in a kitchen. This video has some good tips and tricks to make the job as easy as possible.
- Jak na to + styl
The first video that actually explained how to tile to the worktop. Most videos don't explain this simple procedure.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great concise video. You answered my question about whether I should tile right up to the worktop or put in spacers right at the beginning but I watched the whole video to see if I could pick up any new tips.
I'll definitely look out for your other videos when I need tips for future projects.
Hi there. I just tiled the kitchen and sealed the stone tiles. They look beautiful. Thanks very much for the perfect lesson. Now I'm taking notes watching your grouting video. Husband (who has had many tiling disasters in his lifetime), is very impressed. My favourite part was cutting the tiles with the diamond wheel tile cutter ;-)
I just finished my first ever tile job - travertine backsplash - and this video and others like it have been very helpful! My tiles turned out great, so thanks.
You're amazing. My husband and I are renovating our kitchen ourselves and your videos have been helping us so much. Cheers x
Thanks for the videos (all 3) and I appreciate the time you have given to this. I had already bought the tiles, grout & tools etc. but I didn't have the confidence to start the job, so I looked you up here. Fantastic. All I have to worry about now are 4 sockets and 2 switches!
Glad I watched your video on grouting. In the past I've ended up using my finger to smooth between the tiles (gets very sore after 1/2 hour), so thanks for the tip using a piece of tubing ha ha. Thanks again.
this was the most helpful video i found and i keep coming back to refer to it.
Big thanks to you for the advice! Renovating a house we just bought, so pretty sure I may I have more questions for you! Thanks for the help!
Thanks for making these videos! We are beginners at applying splashback and you have helped alot. We are applying bright orange in our bathroom. :)
Love the accent too. :)
As always, well presented and helpful tips. Thanks.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
In order to cut a square hole for the light switch (the sockets were easier as they came luckily underneath the edge of a tile) I used the Exakt cutter from JML direct which retails at around 100 quid. In order do such cuts you need the diamond blade for porcelain tile, it works very well but you need to stop before the corners and then try to cut the corner and try to get the piece to fall out, then you can try to finish off with the unprotected circular blade, use eye protection. I did this.
Thank you so much UH! You're an amazing instructor and I love that you show things happening in real time, as opposed to the "we're just going to..." and cutting away from the actual work. It's very comforting to watch you placing things yourself and being able to say, "okay, that looks doable."
Question please. Was there any concern about the counter-top being level and building up from there? And if your counter-top isn't level, how would you address this?
Some great tips! Thanks for this.
Richard Brown
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
One thing I had not counted on, with sockets and corners, and windows, and the wall units already in place, this is taking a long time because nearly every single one of those 60 x 30 porcelain tiles in landscape position I must cut! I went from being a research professor to being a stone mason! and the work never ends! lol but for some reason I have shed a stone since I started the kitchen re-modelling. For that reason alone it's well worth doing the work alone! Big tiles are indeed more work
Finished the entire kitchen, 4 m x 3 m has extra corners (a box housing pipes I built in Fermacell board). Up 2 tiles (tiles are 60 cm x 30 cm landscape 8 mm deep, porcelain, italian Granitoker), but over hob went up appx three tiles: 78 cm. Tile cutter from Toolstation, 50 quid, rotating water cooled, tiles, used Webber rapid set. Looks GREAT yet: when cutting ends may chip so do also other side at some dist. + imposs. to avoid some sticky corn. or level diff in rows; req. a leveling system
Every tiler i have worked with applies the adhesive horizontally not vertically on walls
Reason is , it helps prevent water from seeping down behind the tiles
This is great info, thank you so much. I do have a problem. My walls arent level, and on one side of my kitchen i have a much greater gap between my counter and my wall than on the other. Im afraid it will be too big to caulk after installation. Do you have any suggestions? Can i use a thicker application of the adhesive so it sticks out further?
Just finished grouting . Looks really good as I took your advice and bought powder grout. Didn't have a rubber pipe, so used a cheap rubber glove instead (with the fingers in it). Any ideas of how to remove grout from the holes in natural stone tile? Any tips appreciated!
Thank you so much for your videos :) can I be a pain and ask you to post one teaching how to plaster? I absolutely adore you btw xxx
Great job! Thanks a lot!
Actually you can use the Raimondi RLS system on a wall and from your reply it may be worth doing if I choose large tiles. Thanks again for your help.
Hi! Sir, I'm a youngster who has never tiled before and I'm getting ready to tile my kitchen backsplash with 2" tiles. I am pretty handy and I don't foresee a problem especially after having studied your tutorial....it's great! Great tips especially on the internal use of tile spacers. One question??? If i use a white/pale grout am i supposed to use a clear silicone on the bottom seal. If white, then what TYPE of silicone? Keep up the GREAT videos!!!!
What a great & simple teaching ..Thanks a lot :-)
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
*****
Thanks, U really gave me the Go to start tilling, and it was not bad for a biggner like me...Thanks again, U are the best teacher my dear :)
Yes I live in Trinidad.I saw ppl here using thin set mortar on walls so I was wondering is that is the correct thing .I saw on yet ppl using tile adhesive....
Hi Great job and excellent video. What is the board you used behind the tiles, and why did you use it, maybe because of uneven walls, or is it straight onto studs? What thickness is it? Is it a good idea to use backer on uneven walls? If yes, what is the minimum thickness BB you can buy? Many thanks. Ian
I'm going to try diluted Grimex, then reseal the tiles. Tiles need another seal in any case. Bit of a pesky job, but I knew that when I bought these tiles! Will post whether it works. Thanks for the great videos plus comments.
Mistakes as beginner on 60x30 porcelain landscape wall tiling on plasterboard thus far: put too much adhesive for fear of tile falling making it much harder to level the tile; used one instead of two of "Raimondi like" hooks, its important to use two one above and one below to ensure perfection. Thing I did right: on the bottom row of tiles was to hook them together with "Raimondi like" hooks and place them together on the wall. Also I levelled uneven wall with Fermacell FST prior to tiling.
My friend Bob told me about the "Raimondi self-leveling system" (cant put the link to the video here as it is forbidden in comments) but I do not think it is practical or even necessary for wall tiles? However, for floor tiles some friends have used it and are very happy with it so I may try that.
thanks . great details .
god bless you
+reza kazemi
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
How much working time do you have with the adhesive? Thanks for the videos...very well done.
great job.
One advantage of turning the tile over are the markings behind the tiles (my particular tiles) patterns that presumably help to grip the tile but also give a good guideline in addition to a pencil line when cutting them. I did cut some the other face up but must be careful with corner cuts for blade is wider below so might get unintended cuts on part that you see. Tried to change blade for another from Toolstation but it chipped tiles so I reverted to original. How do I send you the photos?
Great vid do u just tile on drywall? I heard there is a problem because of mold in the developing
HI, thanks for sharing your knowledge, I was wondering if it would be a bad idea to paste tiles when they are wet (I recicle pieces of tile and I have to wash them before I use them). Do you think if I use them wet they will come off???
I just love your accent.
good job well done
ive just done my kitchen and used 4mm spacers, but the tiles were 300 x100mm, good job though
Great vid (once again!) - uneven worktop surface (thanks previous owner!), will it be ok to tile off it, or would you banten up level and go from there? Could maybe go off the worktop and add door packers under the first row to keep it level as I went along (then silicone) - but if its out more than 10mm that might be noticeable (and better hidden up under the cupboards). Any advice before I start would be great! Cheers pal!
Is it not possible to level the worktop?
With 10mm you might be able to hide 5mm at the bottom and 5mm at the top, then use a large bead of silicone around the base to cover the 5mm gap?
Nearly 2hrs it took!!! But leveled the worktops, and added more secure fixings that were missing!!! Thanks for the encouragement - I was avoiding going under there, but now its sorted and ready for the tiles! Thanks again!
Well done, it will be much easier tiling now ;-)
...and with such a wall would you choose bigger tiles or smaller square tiles as you are showing now? I presume smaller tiles are easier? do you have any further tips? I am about to buy tiles and tile the kitchen walls.
Can you tile over a painted wall, or does it have to be sanded down or backer board or something?
Watched your tutorials and its great! Also, when setting tile into the adhesive, a friend told me to wet the back of the tile before placing it into the adhesive to help it cure? Is that accurate or not a necessary step?
Yes
If one is tiling against a plasterboard wall that is not perfectly level but that comes in and out as some walls in the UK do, is there a danger that the grout spaces will not look right? I guess so, and how would you take this into consideration? Does it take a lot of skill or is there a technique to lay the adhesive so that it can take some of these imperfections in the flatness of the wall out of the equation?
@we2c2hunt
you don;t need to go mad when putting on adhesive i.e. don't put too much on at once
You have the same kitchen units as me. Where did you buy yours from?
This was at my sisters house, I am sure that she got them from Howdens.
Thanks for the comment
Behind the sink, would you use green board for the wall where the backsplash tile goes down to the countertop surface? If so, how high?
No, I would not bother to be honest. I only use the green board in wet areas in bathrooms, normally where the shower is.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman thank you for the quick reply 😁
You seem to be making a neat job, but you should really be working in complete horizontal rows. You might find the worktop to be sagging in places, which will affect your joint sizes, more difficult to adjust if you work in blocks. Also, it is advisable to slide your tiles into place as you fix, to ensure good adhesion.It doesn't really matter how you use your spacers, as long as your joints end up uniform! Keep up the good work, though, promoting DIY and depriving me of an income!!
What size spacers did you use in this video?
I think they were 2mm spacers
When i wer a lad we din,t have spacers, we had a few boxes of matches and made do with them.
Yeah, I used match sticks too 😂
But it was only a small area!
How much would you quote for the tiling job...If you don't mind me asking
Sorry, I don't do paid work for people. The work I do is in my home own, or friends houses.
Thats ok... Thats what i am doing at the moment till i get some regular tiling jobs come in -
When you drew the centre line does it not work if you tile to each side of the line, so the centre line is the grout line?
sharko86
It depends on how wide the splash back area is. Sometimes starting with the centre line as the grout line works out better, other times the centre of the tile works better.
Oh right thanks, that makes sense. Just need a little bit of basic maths to figure it out before starting. :) Great channel, you explain things very well.
sharko86
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comments
If the wall surface smooth . Do I have to make it rough ? By methods
- I do cavities in the wall with a hammer .
OR
-scratch wall .
OR
I do not make anything only put Glue on wall .
thank you
A smooth wall is fine as long as it is not painted?
***** Wall is painted . What Ido with painted wall ?
thank you ,
ali Al hagoy
Stick a piece of carpet tape on the wall, then after 20 minutes remove it. If the paint comes with the tiles the paint needs removing first mechanically (not with paint stripper). If the paint does not come off with the tape you can tile right on top of it. More info here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/tiling/wall_tiling.htm
*****
i live in the philippines where carpet is NOT very popular. hence not easy to find carpet tape. any other suggestions for testing the quality of a painted surface?? thanks
penthouse living
You could try duct tape, that is probably very similar.
Do you need to tape the joints under the tles?
I would do if the wall is plasterboard, but in this case the wall was solid plaster. The only reason why it has plasterboard fixed to the front of it was because the kitchen fitters installed the worktops and there was a 2 inch gap in one corner, so I had to fix some plasterboard to the wall (which was glued and screwed) to cover the huge gap in the corner.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Yes and dont forget to scrim tape all the tile joints before you grout it...stops it cracking
Man, I saw your work. At that time, you were not a professional tiler. You did not use trowel well ;-). But keep improving yourself. Thank for your video.
Hi mate ...I’m doing my splash back in kitchen.I have a tile below my extractor fan with laser set up on it...but when I checked other wall below window at sink with tile...the laser is nearly 2 cm above other tile.so do I go with that line.?will that look funny..
I hope I made sense there lol
Normally I just move the extractor to suit the top line of tiles, most extractors can easily be adjusted by a couple of inches higher or lower, you might have to drill new fixing holes in the wall though.
@@ultimatehandyman sorry mate I haven’t explained properly.I mean I’m starting in center of wall which is below extractor fan.but when I follow line at sink/window on return the lazer line is bout 2cm above tile(I set another tile there to check)what I mean is will I just go off that point ...and cut the tiles in below extractor.I just imagine it to look funny.thanks
@@ultimatehandyman the work top is all over place
@@anitagoodsleep5330 Blimey, I would refuse to tile a kitchen if the worktops were not level. It will be a nightmare trying to make it look right!
The kitchen in this video was hard enough, as the tiles are not identical sizes! Plus they fitted the worktops and there was a 2 inch gap in one corner, I had to get some plasterboard and square the corner up.
You just reminded me why I hate tiling LOL
Bolton or there abouts?
hey did u use thin set or mastic and y?
I just used ready mixed non slip adhesive.
What to use on walls thinaet or the mastic? Most bid I see they use mastic
Raj Dann
I think the terminology is different depending on where in the world you are. I'm in the UK and mastic is predominantly used to seal around windows/doors or seal gaps here.
When choosing a tile adhesive I always try and get non slip, if it's going in a bathroom I get water proof, if it's going over wood I get flexible adhesive.
I hope this helps ;-)
Tank?
ما عندي تعليق لكني ما شفت أي تعليق عربي قلت خلني أشارك ومع السلامة
I'm a girl. I swear I can do this myself! lol I'm going to try it!
Of course you can do this. Most girls have more patience then men, which comes in handy when doing jobs like this ;-)
Ultimate Handyman Yes you're right and I think it's a fun thing to do. I love crafting so I thought why not putting tiles on the wall. It's like a puzzle... If I do the kitchen right and it looks good I will also do the bathroom 💪🏽👍🏽I always thought it was difficult until I watched these CZcams videos. But I never really seen a woman doing it. I feel like I'm the handyman in the house. 😆 Thank you for the video!
You are welcome.
As long as you take your time with it you will be fine ;-)
wayne kerr
Cover the worktop and hob first...or is that just being TOO fussy ????
That's being TOO fussy. It's a kitchen worktop, a bit of tile adhesive or grout will not harm it ;-)
I did. Twice!
looks like a hacker to me.
27k subscribers...obviously 27k people who have no idea how to do DIY lol
Through my tiling challenge it dawned on me there are similarities between tilers and mathematicians. Both are perfectionists "anal" but with 3 differences: (1) mathematicians can undo and start again but once tiles set you cannot undo; (2) in tiling you can disguise mistakes, e.g. by cutting a slanting tile 2mm to fool the eye and recover the level, but proving theorems you cannot! (although I have my doubts about this so the jury is out); (3) compared to mathematicians tilers are morons.
(US) highway = (UK) motorway
(US and Ireland) no passing = (UK) no overtaking
while driving on an American highway I saw a sign that said "No passing" and slammed the break but they meant "no overtaking". Americans have a very limited vocabulary.
Pronounciations:
"Renaissance Hotel" (capital letter to indicate where the accent goes):
(US) REnaissance; (UK) RenAIssance
(US) adUlt; (UK) Adult