It's 2021 and I'm watching this video to get started on developing my own film. Your videos have always been helpful, thank you so much for your great work! Stay safe.. : ))
I have been teaching photography for some 40 years, this is the first time I have watched a really well explained process system for the development of monochrome film. My personal recommendation would be 10 minutes for the wash.. That is perfectly adequate. Highly recommended viewing...
I'm fairly new to developing film, and have been using Ilford film, mostly HP5 Plus. I use their recommendations of filling the tank with water, inverting it 5 times, and emptying. Then filling again, inverting 10 times, and emptying. Then finally filling again, inverting 20 times, and emptying. Seems to work for me, and saves water. I live in North Yorkshire, and definitely don't need ice to get the chemicals to 20 degrees C.
I actually watch this video before I develop film (like I just did tonight). I'm not sure if there is some procrastination aspect to it, but I do know it always gets me in mind of the fundamentals. It's like running through the process in my head before I begin, except you are doing all the heavy lifting ("run through" -wise) I appreciate you for making such a good video and it has become part of my film developing tradition. Well done, sir!
Really enjoyed this episode, Ted. Definitely want to give this a shot. Your explanations and cautions were very clear and make it look like anyone can do it. Gonna give it a shot and see what happens. Should be fun!
Hey ted, I just wanted to drop a line because I've watched at least half your analog photography videos at this point. Great, clear presentation! Looking forward to seeing more of your videos
Thank you for making this video. Years ago I used to develop my own colour slides (E6 of course), but I'm thinking of developing my own black and white film.
Ted Forbes: I would always agitate film in the way you do. I refer to it as a three axis rotation. I noticed you agitate much slower than I used to. I think many photographers I knew would use the three axis method of agitation but would agitate at a much faster speed then you demonstrate on this video. Perhaps your method is more accurate. I want to start shooting black and white film next month. I think I will try your slower method of agitation and see if I get better results. I had noticed in the past that my negatives were more grainy then I would have liked. I would use D-76 1:1. So I will try your method.
I'm catching up on your older episodes while I'm scanning film. I've been a darkroom rat for decades and love the wet process. Question: Do you ever presoak your film? I used to do that religiously, but I've heard it doesn't make any difference really. Just curious.
Hello Ted thank you, your videos taught me soo much! one question> when you use the thermometer you only stick it inside 1 of the chemicals so they dont contaminate the others?
Hey quick question. First, thanks for the vidz they are very useful. Just wondering, is it needed to leave the water running for 30 min or is it fine to just leave it in water for 30 min. Just cautious of letting water run for that long. Thanks
Agree. I wash in running tap water for about 5 minutes then wash off the tap water with distilled water for a few minutes. Comes out very clean with no water spots.
Very nice. I would mention indicator stop is a simple chemical that tells you when it's exhausted. Fixer is easy to test. I also use hypo wash. Stainless reels take about 20 minutes of practice, and are much cleaner that Patterson tanks and reels where you know and can eventually see chemicals stubbornly sticking on all those sharp angles in the plastic parts, and you can never be sure a black plastic tank is not stained. (Start with stainless. You won't regret it.) The most important part is accuracy in measurement in temperature and chemistry for reliable, repeatable results. (IMO) There are a lot of useless youtube videos with "good enough" procedures, with interesting experiments like caffenol, etc. Part of the beauty is in perfecting your procedures. You might even find your favorites, do the contrast tests, and try the zone system when you go shoot. Regards.
One more comment: Looking through the comments below I saw some comments about the wash time. If you do not use a hypo clearing agent it is recommended that you wash your film in temperature controlled running water for 30 minutes. I have used Kodak hypo clearing agent in the past to better wash the fixer out and reduce the wash time to about 10 minutes. If you want your negatives to last several decades without stains you want to wash them thoroughly.
A very informative and helpful video. When hanging the film to dry, we could not see if you used a squeegee or nothing at all. What is peoples advice on this?
Hi, I only recently became interested in Black and White film photography and was taught by an awesome teacher at my high school. Although while I was watching this, it seems like quite a few steps more than what we learned (probably because we were just getting started) But we always reused to the same chemicals, even the developer and never poured it through a stocking to help clean it. I just recently got my own darkroom set up and have ILFOSOL 3 for developing my film and then of course the Rapid Fixer, but can I just dump the ILOSOL 3 back into its bottle and use it multiple times??
Thanks for your great show! Especially the artist series is very nice. I got my first roll of film ready and tomorrow I'll try to develop it. Just one last question: On 35mm films why do I have to snip of the little end piece? It just seems like a huge chance for mistakes doing that while in the dark instead of later.. Thank you so much. Greetings from Berlin, Germany.
I just got into film recently and I want to develop me own film. I have all the supplies, but I have a some questions. First, I have a paterson tank that holds 500ml however, on the bottom of the tank it says 35mm 290ml does that mean that I only need to use 290ml of a solution or can I fill it to the top with 500ml? Also, when mixing chemicals for example the Rodinal, it says 1+50 does that mean that after dividing 500ml by 50 I get 10ml so I need 10ml of Rodinal and 450 ml of water? Finally, when diluting the fixer for example TF-4, do I need to dilute the entire bottle or just however much I need at the time? Thank you in advance to who ever takes time to answer my questions.
is this for black and white negative films? or is this process usable for colour negative film also? I wanna know if this process deliversgood results... Nice viedeo, by the way!!! :)
You only need developer and fixer. The time the film is exposed to the developer controls the density of the image on the film. The stop bath is used make the developing time more accurate and it washed away the developer so you don't contaminate the fixer. The washing step can be reduced to a couple minutes by using something called 'hypo clearing agent' and then at the end you use photoflo to make the water sheet off the film to avoid water spots. Wipe the film with sqeegee before hanging.
How many chemicals did you use? I thought it was just the developer and the fixer... Are they different chemicals depending on whether its colour or b&w?? Thank you, good vid btw =)
Thanks very much for this video. However, I do not recommend dumping your chemicals down the sink, for environmental reasons (check indications on chemical bottles). It's best to take your used chemicals to the local recycling center where they will be properly disposed of.
can anyone help me? I'm new to this.... the safelight i have seen says its for b&w, does it really mean it will wreck color film? also do i need different chemicals for developing color, if i have a kit for b&w ?
I need help... I'm getting different developing times for tmax 400 in D76 1:1 can anyone help me? Kodak says 12.5 min but other websites say 9.5 min. If there is anyone out there that can help me that would be awesome. thanks!
got a quick qeustion. today my ilford dd-x developer came out yelowish-orang like a fresh mixed formacitro stopbath while it went in completely clear. what could have gone wrong?
I can only speak for the chems i use. The bottle on the Fix and Developer (for B/W film) sais its toxic to pour out in the nature/drink ;). And i have heard that if you work with it everyday for a very long time something might happen to your head (just what i have heard, i dont know really. I always have a open door + good ventilation in my bathroom when i work with the chems). Dont know bout c-41 chems thou.
I'm looking for the easiest way to develop black and white 8mm movie film (double 8). I would assume it's the same basic process you're using here only on a larger scale. Perhaps a small bucket and hand agitation in the dark room? It's extremely difficult to find info online for simple B&W 8mm processing. I'll experiment until I get it right and then post a video. I think someone should due to the renewed interest in hobby B&W 8mm film making.
+Aquatic Spirits The only problem with that is, you need reversal processing if you plan on projecting it. And the film will also tend to stick to itself so that is something to keep in mind as well.
Hello my friend! I have a crusial question for you, I didn’t hear so well in the video, “ it’s destill water or what?...it’s the same that battery water? Can I use It as well? I want to do things right, you know? Answer me please, your bro!!!!!!!
I don't know about battery water (I know about battery acid though!!). Listen, he said in a previous video to use Distilled water (pure H₂O, made in the lab). Don't use water from the tap because that's full of other chemicals (salts, anti-bacteria, or other garbage).
Well it looks simple so let's hope it is. We have no company here that I can find to develop my film. We also no longer have any programs in my surrounding area that teaches film/darkroom. I am a little upset about it since I'm just starting this hobby. Lets hope for the best with my no skills, CZcams watching self!!! Thanks for all your videos, they're very informative.
E-6 is very messy and must be perfect. most people did black and white only back in the days because it's much more easy'r. I go start develop my own soon because I was to young back in the days to learn the process. (I always helped my dad a bit with timings and washing only at age of 10 or 12.
sarah-bk This is black and white developer. You have the Developer > stop bath > fixer > water > dry. Doesn't look messy indeed and is much easy'r to do. E-6 is for color reversal you need a lot of chems and timing + temps must be critical and perfect. Also you need to bleach and a lot of other things. It's also more expensive then developing black and white to do it yourself. I bring in my color reversals and costs 3 euro each film. but when you do it by yourself it's over 10 euro a roll when you do it at home. Anyways if you going to develop. Black and white is the thing you really gonna enjoy :D
Underp4ntz Ah - right. Thanks for the clarification. Well then, good thing we have places developing colour film for 3 euros then! I'll be sure to only ever try B&W developing myself ;) While we're on the topic, since you quoted a price in euros (I take you're European too), where do you buy your film from?
Yeah I'am sticking to B&W film to for home development. My dad did C41 (for color negative) and E-6 for (reversal slide film) and it was a mess and bringing all chems to company's who recycle them. (and you need to pay the company for dumping the chemicals at their storages) Anyways yeah I'am from the Netherlands. I just buy my film in my country on webshops / shops and in germany (depends who is the cheapest). For example a store in my town prices a 5 pack of fuji provia 100f 120 film for 45 euro's but some stores sells "old" stock for 20 euro's a 5 pack. I personally recommend webshops and warehouses. I was looking for delta 400 film and they charge me 11,90 for 1 roll of film in shops. But a warehouse or webshop charges 42 euros for 10 rolls... I heard from people film is hard to get in the states. But in Europe and so far I know china and japan sells a lot of film supermarkets full of it.
With Ilford's method you only need 1.5 litres of fresh water to wash your film. Google it, it works great. Basically, you rinse your film three times while you slowly spin the tank. It's fast too!
나예요 만세예요 in photography class, we do 5 minutes, but that’s because we agitate the film with hypoclear for 2 minutes before the final wash. That makes it so we can spend only 5 minutes washing
***** around 40% of the time I shoot with a Minolta 7000, I am familiar with the mechanics of analog photography. I simply don't develop it myself. Now, if you're going to make more assumptions that would give weight to your pretentious comments you're going to have to try harder. Happy new year and thanks for your opinion.
***** Well, consider your apology accepted! I know how easy it is to write comments on YT in frustration. And one day i'll give it a shot! and remember this conversation and the apology that i owed myself :P
Yikes. 30 minutes. A waste of water. And...I strongly suggest you newbies always wear impervious gloves. You do not want those chemicals on your skin!!
It's 2021 and I'm watching this video to get started on developing my own film. Your videos have always been helpful, thank you so much for your great work! Stay safe.. : ))
Funny that you're using ice to get your chemicals to 20 Celsius. I live in Scotland and will almost certainly have to warm my chemicals to 20!
lol
I wondered what Ted was doing there- from sunny Wales.
Sous vide machine big man
I have been teaching photography for some 40 years, this is the first time I have watched a really well explained process system for the development of monochrome film. My personal recommendation would be 10 minutes for the wash.. That is perfectly adequate. Highly recommended viewing...
Agreed, especially since I live in Southern California.
I'm fairly new to developing film, and have been using Ilford film, mostly HP5 Plus. I use their recommendations of filling the tank with water, inverting it 5 times, and emptying. Then filling again, inverting 10 times, and emptying. Then finally filling again, inverting 20 times, and emptying. Seems to work for me, and saves water. I live in North Yorkshire, and definitely don't need ice to get the chemicals to 20 degrees C.
“It’s not a cocktail shaker.” I’m getting back into film and appreciate your having done these videos.
I actually watch this video before I develop film (like I just did tonight). I'm not sure if there is some procrastination aspect to it, but I do know it always gets me in mind of the fundamentals. It's like running through the process in my head before I begin, except you are doing all the heavy lifting ("run through" -wise) I appreciate you for making such a good video and it has become part of my film developing tradition.
Well done, sir!
Really enjoyed this episode, Ted. Definitely want to give this a shot. Your explanations and cautions were very clear and make it look like anyone can do it. Gonna give it a shot and see what happens. Should be fun!
Hey ted, I just wanted to drop a line because I've watched at least half your analog photography videos at this point. Great, clear presentation! Looking forward to seeing more of your videos
Young Ted
Awesome! thanks for sharing with us!
Thank you for making this video. Years ago I used to develop my own colour slides (E6 of course), but I'm thinking of developing my own black and white film.
PLEEASSEEE do a video on how to mix from powder, specifically XTOL (D-76 would be cool too!) :) Great video once again
Just developed my first roll of tri-x, came out great!
Ted Forbes: I would always agitate film in the way you do. I refer to it as a three axis rotation. I noticed you agitate much slower than I used to. I think many photographers I knew would use the three axis method of agitation but would agitate at a much faster speed then you demonstrate on this video. Perhaps your method is more accurate. I want to start shooting black and white film next month. I think I will try your slower method of agitation and see if I get better results. I had noticed in the past that my negatives were more grainy then I would have liked. I would use D-76 1:1. So I will try your method.
30 minutes of water running? um.. what
I use hypo clearing agent to get the wash time down to about 5 minutes.
Thank you for great video!
Ted Forbes is my hero.
I'm catching up on your older episodes while I'm scanning film. I've been a darkroom rat for decades and love the wet process. Question: Do you ever presoak your film? I used to do that religiously, but I've heard it doesn't make any difference really. Just curious.
Thanks!
Hello Ted thank you, your videos taught me soo much! one question> when you use the thermometer you only stick it inside 1 of the chemicals so they dont contaminate the others?
Hey quick question. First, thanks for the vidz they are very useful. Just wondering, is it needed to leave the water running for 30 min or is it fine to just leave it in water for 30 min. Just cautious of letting water run for that long. Thanks
I have always had stellar results when I rinse my film in water for 5-10 minutes.
30 minutes is unnecessary, you're wasting water and time.
king shaman Totally agree.. 10 minutes is absolutely fine...
Agree. I wash in running tap water for about 5 minutes then wash off the tap water with distilled water for a few minutes. Comes out very clean with no water spots.
How long do I need to process my digital photos? ;-) Thanks for the video. Nicely explained.
For measuring and finding the right mixture I love to use the "MassiveDev" app on my Android. Try it out...
Very nice. I would mention indicator stop is a simple chemical that tells you when it's exhausted. Fixer is easy to test. I also use hypo wash. Stainless reels take about 20 minutes of practice, and are much cleaner that Patterson tanks and reels where you know and can eventually see chemicals stubbornly sticking on all those sharp angles in the plastic parts, and you can never be sure a black plastic tank is not stained. (Start with stainless. You won't regret it.) The most important part is accuracy in measurement in temperature and chemistry for reliable, repeatable results. (IMO) There are a lot of useless youtube videos with "good enough" procedures, with interesting experiments like caffenol, etc. Part of the beauty is in perfecting your procedures. You might even find your favorites, do the contrast tests, and try the zone system when you go shoot. Regards.
amazing ! thanks
One more comment: Looking through the comments below I saw some comments about the wash time. If you do not use a hypo clearing agent it is recommended that you wash your film in temperature controlled running water for 30 minutes. I have used Kodak hypo clearing agent in the past to better wash the fixer out and reduce the wash time to about 10 minutes. If you want your negatives to last several decades without stains you want to wash them thoroughly.
A very informative and helpful video. When hanging the film to dry, we could not see if you used a squeegee or nothing at all. What is peoples advice on this?
This is great, thank you for making all these film photography videos. I just bought a medium format camera and the info is invaluable.
Nice timer. Last time I looked they're quite expensive but would love one. :-)
Hi, I only recently became interested in Black and White film photography and was taught by an awesome teacher at my high school. Although while I was watching this, it seems like quite a few steps more than what we learned (probably because we were just getting started) But we always reused to the same chemicals, even the developer and never poured it through a stocking to help clean it. I just recently got my own darkroom set up and have ILFOSOL 3 for developing my film and then of course the Rapid Fixer, but can I just dump the ILOSOL 3 back into its bottle and use it multiple times??
Any advice on using water instead of stop bath? Like a rinse time or something?
Thanks for your great show! Especially the artist series is very nice. I got my first roll of film ready and tomorrow I'll try to develop it. Just one last question: On 35mm films why do I have to snip of the little end piece? It just seems like a huge chance for mistakes doing that while in the dark instead of later.. Thank you so much. Greetings from Berlin, Germany.
As the leader tab is not held in the spiral on both sides, it can curl in and touch the film underneath in the spindle which can ruin that frame.
I just got into film recently and I want to develop me own film. I have all the supplies, but I have a some questions. First, I have a paterson tank that holds 500ml however, on the bottom of the tank it says 35mm 290ml does that mean that I only need to use 290ml of a solution or can I fill it to the top with 500ml? Also, when mixing chemicals for example the Rodinal, it says 1+50 does that mean that after dividing 500ml by 50 I get 10ml so I need 10ml of Rodinal and 450 ml of water? Finally, when diluting the fixer for example TF-4, do I need to dilute the entire bottle or just however much I need at the time? Thank you in advance to who ever takes time to answer my questions.
GooooooooooD Job
i know its common practice but I'm not sure if its a good idea to dump chemical directly into the sink
suggestions on how would you dispose of chemicals?
is this for black and white negative films? or is this process usable for colour negative film also? I wanna know if this process deliversgood results... Nice viedeo, by the way!!! :)
You only need developer and fixer. The time the film is exposed to the developer controls the density of the image on the film. The stop bath is used make the developing time more accurate and it washed away the developer so you don't contaminate the fixer. The washing step can be reduced to a couple minutes by using something called 'hypo clearing agent' and then at the end you use photoflo to make the water sheet off the film to avoid water spots. Wipe the film with sqeegee before hanging.
I’m using Ilford LC29 and the dilution rate is 1+29 so I pull 100ml developer into the container and then I pull in 290ml of water is that correct?
How many chemicals did you use?
I thought it was just the developer and the fixer...
Are they different chemicals depending on whether its colour or b&w??
Thank you, good vid btw =)
I'd like to try this with 4x5 film. would any 4x5 tank work? And how do you manage to keep the same temperature?
Thanks very much for this video. However, I do not recommend dumping your chemicals down the sink, for environmental reasons (check indications on chemical bottles). It's best to take your used chemicals to the local recycling center where they will be properly disposed of.
What kind of precautions would you say to take?
can anyone help me? I'm new to this....
the safelight i have seen says its for b&w, does it really mean it will wreck color film?
also do i need different chemicals for developing color, if i have a kit for b&w ?
does the distilled water make it dry without mineral/water marks?
Ooooooh so young you are!!!!!! :-)
So you use the LFN solution as a substitute for Photoflo?
I need help... I'm getting different developing times for tmax 400 in D76 1:1 can anyone help me? Kodak says 12.5 min but other websites say 9.5 min. If there is anyone out there that can help me that would be awesome. thanks!
What chemicals are you using??
got a quick qeustion. today my ilford dd-x developer came out yelowish-orang like a fresh mixed formacitro stopbath while it went in completely clear. what could have gone wrong?
depends on the film. I developed Rollei Retro 400S and it came out like that but then developed Kentmere 100 and it came out clear.
I can only speak for the chems i use.
The bottle on the Fix and Developer (for B/W film) sais its toxic to pour out in the nature/drink ;).
And i have heard that if you work with it everyday for a very long time something might happen to your head (just what i have heard, i dont know really. I always have a open door + good ventilation in my bathroom when i work with the chems).
Dont know bout c-41 chems thou.
I'm looking for the easiest way to develop black and white 8mm movie film (double 8). I would assume it's the same basic process you're using here only on a larger scale. Perhaps a small bucket and hand agitation in the dark room? It's extremely difficult to find info online for simple B&W 8mm processing. I'll experiment until I get it right and then post a video. I think someone should due to the renewed interest in hobby B&W 8mm film making.
+Aquatic Spirits The only problem with that is, you need reversal processing if you plan on projecting it. And the film will also tend to stick to itself so that is something to keep in mind as well.
Hello my friend! I have a crusial question for you, I didn’t hear so well in the video, “ it’s destill water or what?...it’s the same that battery water? Can I use It as well? I want to do things right, you know? Answer me please, your bro!!!!!!!
I don't know about battery water (I know about battery acid though!!). Listen, he said in a previous video to use Distilled water (pure H₂O, made in the lab). Don't use water from the tap because that's full of other chemicals (salts, anti-bacteria, or other garbage).
Can I develope film in the light then?
Well it looks simple so let's hope it is. We have no company here that I can find to develop my film. We also no longer have any programs in my surrounding area that teaches film/darkroom. I am a little upset about it since I'm just starting this hobby. Lets hope for the best with my no skills, CZcams watching self!!! Thanks for all your videos, they're very informative.
The last part with that CFN distilled water, is that optional? thanks
Yes, it's optional. All it does is ensures you don't get any water stains on your film
Are any of these chemicals toxic?
Are you agitating the fixer stage every 30 seconds or just the first 30 sec?
leave tap running for 30 minutes!? dang
Yeah - thought I had mentioned that ;-)
Totally have to give this a go one day - I was expecting it to be a much messier process before seeing this video :)
E-6 is very messy and must be perfect. most people did black and white only back in the days because it's much more easy'r.
I go start develop my own soon because I was to young back in the days to learn the process. (I always helped my dad a bit with timings and washing only at age of 10 or 12.
Underp4ntz If this is E-6, it doesn't look that messy at all. Perhaps a lot of wasted water to rinse the container out!
sarah-bk This is black and white developer. You have the Developer > stop bath > fixer > water > dry. Doesn't look messy indeed and is much easy'r to do.
E-6 is for color reversal you need a lot of chems and timing + temps must be critical and perfect. Also you need to bleach and a lot of other things. It's also more expensive then developing black and white to do it yourself.
I bring in my color reversals and costs 3 euro each film. but when you do it by yourself it's over 10 euro a roll when you do it at home.
Anyways if you going to develop. Black and white is the thing you really gonna enjoy :D
Underp4ntz Ah - right. Thanks for the clarification. Well then, good thing we have places developing colour film for 3 euros then! I'll be sure to only ever try B&W developing myself ;)
While we're on the topic, since you quoted a price in euros (I take you're European too), where do you buy your film from?
Yeah I'am sticking to B&W film to for home development. My dad did C41 (for color negative) and E-6 for (reversal slide film) and it was a mess and bringing all chems to company's who recycle them. (and you need to pay the company for dumping the chemicals at their storages)
Anyways yeah I'am from the Netherlands. I just buy my film in my country on webshops / shops and in germany (depends who is the cheapest). For example a store in my town prices a 5 pack of fuji provia 100f 120 film for 45 euro's but some stores sells "old" stock for 20 euro's a 5 pack.
I personally recommend webshops and warehouses. I was looking for delta 400 film and they charge me 11,90 for 1 roll of film in shops. But a warehouse or webshop charges 42 euros for 10 rolls...
I heard from people film is hard to get in the states. But in Europe and so far I know china and japan sells a lot of film supermarkets full of it.
With Ilford's method you only need 1.5 litres of fresh water to wash your film. Google it, it works great. Basically, you rinse your film three times while you slowly spin the tank. It's fast too!
The OG ted
That is not 35 mm film
wait... you have to keep running fresh tap water for 30 minutes?
+PANDETTA D No way, 10 is perfectly adequate. I've even heard others doing 5, but I'm not so sure of that...
That scared me too, south africa's got the kind of water restrictions that means we can't use more than 80litres a day, so this seems excessive :/
나예요 만세예요 in photography class, we do 5 minutes, but that’s because we agitate the film with hypoclear for 2 minutes before the final wash. That makes it so we can spend only 5 minutes washing
last chemical name 1drop
Who is this young fella?
Half an hour wash? Your water bill must be insane..
Bises ma belle....
You have the most likeable face I've ever seen.
30 mins in running water?! that's overkill... 5 min is enough!!!
Damn this is old ! xD But good :)
Dear lord, I had no idea so much effort went into film development... I have never appreciated digital photography more in my life.
If mine was the dumbest comment that you've seen on CZcams then you clearly don't browse much youtube.
***** around 40% of the time I shoot with a Minolta 7000, I am familiar with the mechanics of analog photography. I simply don't develop it myself.
Now, if you're going to make more assumptions that would give weight to your pretentious comments you're going to have to try harder.
Happy new year and thanks for your opinion.
***** Well, consider your apology accepted! I know how easy it is to write comments on YT in frustration.
And one day i'll give it a shot! and remember this conversation and the apology that i owed myself :P
***** you still don't make any sense..stop trolling
use gloves!!!!
Yikes. 30 minutes. A waste of water. And...I strongly suggest you newbies always wear impervious gloves. You do not want those chemicals on your skin!!