BMW rotor and brake upgrade with R1 Concepts! DIY for Brembo and standard style brakes!
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- čas přidán 12. 11. 2019
- Howdy all!
Check out my new branded gear!
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If you want to see my full F32 build out:
f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...
I wanted to share my latest upgrade in improving my brakes and rotors. What I also appreciate about this, is if I can do both standard maintenance AND an upgrade at the same time, its like two projects in one!
This guide should work on almost any style BMW including both brembo style calipers (my fronts) or the standard style (my rears) caliper. M Performance kits will have brembo style front and rear, M Sport like mine is brembo front, standard rear. Non sport brakes will have the same style in the front as my rears, so this guide should work no matter what style you have.
Thank you to R1 Concepts for making such a great product to work with and I am really happy to have this upgrade in my car!
Required parts and tools:
R1 Concepts drilled slotted brake rotors
www.r1concepts.com/detail_cat...
R1 Concepts Brake Pads
www.r1concepts.com/detail_cat...
Floor jack and 4 jack stands
16mm, 18mm sockets and/or wrenches
6mm, 8mm allen socket or wrench
socket extensions
Torque wrench
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
15mm, 18mm, 21mm ratcheting wrench
Breaker bar
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Impact driver
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
6inch C clamp
punch
rubber mallet
WD40/PB Blaster/Brake cleaner spray
Brake pad paste
old metal hanger or tie down (string works too)
Torque info:
16nm - rotor bolt
28nm - brake pins
50nm - 16mm/18mm brake caliper and carrier bolts
105lbs - wheel lugs
Nice to have:
Good headlamp
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Good lighting
www.amazon.com/Ryobi-P720-18-...
Great music - Halestorm is always good for car work!
www.halestormrocks.com/ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you so much for this video! I just got off the phone with R1. I ordered the same set up. And I only paid 400!!
That is awesome! They make a great product for a very reasonable price. I have their hardware on 2 of the 3 cars in the garage, and very soon on all 3.
BMW DIY Guy That’s cool. Could you tell any difference after the break in? I actually didn’t get the Geomet rotors. I ordered the ELINE slotted and Drilled.
BMW DIY Guy Have another question for you. Where do you find all the torque ratings? Also are you measuring torque angle as well? I just got a new digital torque wrench for this job. Figure if I want to do it right. I need to find out the torque angles as well. Thanks.
Great video DIY Guy. I did the same setup on a 2014 428i a couple of years ago. Unfortunately the car was in an accident and was totaled. Well I purchased another one same year but with all the equipment I wanted but the M brake package. Going to be upgrading with the same as this video but adding SS brake lines. I think the SS brake lines add that nice stiff pedal. Thank you again for the great DIY videos and keep them coming.
Sorry to hear about your car! I am looking at SS lines here sometime soon too. 8)
ZoomIDoRx8 never been a fan of Teflon plastic lines, but as long as you plan to replace them every 3 years or 30k miles they are perfectly fine to use now a days.
Literally all your vids are full of vital info. Thanks so much! Its time for me to do the same on my f32. Ehat size rotors front and rear are you running? I believe we have the same vehicle
All of the info is in the video description and happy to help!
Great video as always! I recently had mine done by a professional, practically same set up just different brand and on all of my cars, I've always asked my mechanic what was their opinion in terms of break in style, there's the take it easy with no hard braking and then there's the brand recommended hard break in, which is suppose to help deliver an even brake pad to rotor surface area. I couldn't do the hard brake in due to rain. My brakes squeal a little bit since it's cold out and only initially, other than that no squeal. Brake pad composition also plays a role, I have the combo carbon metallic and ceramic pads which also tends to squeak a bit more when cold. What type of pads do you have?
GREAT questions and yeah, there are a million choices when doing all of these parts, especially brake pads. For me, I went with the R1 OE style as they seemed closest to the stock BMW pads. I wanted a similar brake feel for now, before I potentially change to something else.
Hello I got question I have the same calipers what size are the front rotors 340mm? And the rear ones where you get your rotors from??
All the info is in the video description including links to R1 Concepts for the pads and rotors
The reason why slotted go towards the front is because they are meant to catch air in order to reduce temperature of the rotor. If you install them backwards you defeat the purpose. Most importantly is how the vanes on the inside of the rotor are designed. Some are angled in order to catch air and cool the rotor on the inside. It all has to do with airflow to reduce temperature, not looks.
Completely understand.. ironically enough, even R1 says these rotors can go either direction, just a matter of choice. 8)
Directional rotors are based on the internal vanes, not the surface slots.
Hi dont you have a video of backup camera install? I bought avin because of your vids now i bought the backup cam but i cant install it because there is no clear instructions coming from them
I dont have a video of it as I have the OEM camera. I have an older guide for an e46 and it is very similar but not identical.
Superb tutorial. Just a couple of questions. 1. Have you experienced any small cracks from the drilled holes on the rotars? 2. What was the torque setting on the bolts which attach the caliper to the brake assembly area? Thanks.
No cracking issues so all good there, and I believe the torque values are in the video description
Great video!
So it’s been a year… how are they?
Any rusting on the rotors?
And squealing on the brakes?
Is brake dust/dirt well controlled?
They are excellent and less dust than orm pads for sure.
Have you had any buzzing noise with these rotors? I am getting the noise only on the fronts. I've notice my fronts are slotted and not drilled all the way but my rears are drilled all the way through? i am running akebono ceramics and there is a constant buzzing noise. I've had multiple shops say its the nature of the rotors. I havent had the chance to swap the pads but have seen others say the same about a buzzing noise. The noise only occurs will driving and actually goes away while braking.
Now that is interesting.. I don't have any sounds like you describe, but good you had shops look at it as that (very likely) means nothing is wrong with the install or they would have caught it. Not sure why you would have that sound, but good thoughts on the pads.
john yoon if you mean the whoosh whoosh whoosh sounds, that does happen.
@@Onizukachan915 it's a buzzing noise from contact with the rotor. It's really odd. Even occurs on my second set of pads. I'm thinking it may be rotor issue
john yoon never run across this issue, but maybe pull them and wire brush the heck out of the hubs. I always do it dry, then wet then a dab of disc brake lube worked in. I can only think one of them has a bit of scale making the hubs just a fraction of a mm out of square.
I heard the slotted rotors start to make a clucking noise. Is this a problem that presented itself for you?
Zero issues or noise, excellent brakes
From Rjackdriver1 if it were me I would turn the wheel when working on the front to make it easier to get to your bolts and after I would be done I would clean the rotors with some brake clean.Thanks for your video.
Good thoughts!
How do you find your new brakes? Are they sharper, more responsive than your originals?
Break in takes as much as 120 miles so really driving gently at this point. They are smooth and dead quiet so a good start.
My brakes were really bad before I changed them and I only had 40k on them. So far mine feels a lot better but I feel bleeding the brake lines will help additionally.
Are your rotors noisy when driving? I know the BMW M performance ones are. It's kind of annoying.
Yes, and from what I understand, all slotted/drilled will make noise. I agree though its a little irritating with all the windows down. Otherwise I dont hear it at all.
I mean front axle ... Thanks
You should clean all surfaces, tools to seperate the pistons are very cheap. You don't need a brand name. Otherwise very good.
Great thought and good feedback! I did a complete clean and rebuild when I installed the new M Performance calipers, including getting them powder coated.
@@BMWDIYGuy Nice! Most important is between the disc and the wheel bearing hub, the the rim to the disc. If it isn't straight you will feel it, I'm waiting for my delivery of my pads and discs for my front. Front right disc is really warped, really really warped.
@@Salpeteroxid Well done and really good info.. warped rotors SUCK!!!
@@BMWDIYGuy Nemas, keep the vids going! I love the positive side of the car community!
Edit: looking forward to future vids, I have the bell icon activated. I think your video was slow and thorough which is the best format for us who want to learn and know about our cars. Don't speed it up and keep all details in. I could see some things I needed to know just by you showing so much of the job.
Take care and keep wrenching 🤙
Great video, but you are removing and hanging the caliber, not the rotor or disc....
Caliper
@@1vtbear sure.. I mix and match words sometime 8)
I don't agree with the break in procedure. I always follow the hard break in procedure. Never heard of a recommendation to drive easy for 200 km.
If the internal veins are straight and not curved, doesnt matter. Never understood why people grease brake pads when the factory doesnt. Grease attracts dirt and grime, creating brake noise…defeating the purpose