Simpson Lawrence Seatiger 555 Mechanical Windlass Repair
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- čas přidán 24. 03. 2018
- Restoration and step-by-step reassembly of a used mechanical windlass. The SL-555 was popular equipment on cruising yachts of the 1970's and 1980's. With a little work, they can look like new and provide many more years of reliable anchor weighing and arm exercise!
Please comment with any questions or related advice.
-Andy
All music by Dan Lebowitz downloaded from CZcams music library.
Camera: iPhone 6
Video Editing: iMovie - Jak na to + styl
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you very much Andrew. I like your vidéo
One more thing I thought of when I was watching this for like the third time, I couldn't get the main "nut" off the main shaft. The lever had been smashed in so many times it crushed the end threads. I had to carefully file the last thread off the shaft, which was pretty easy in the soft bronze.
Thank you thank you thank you for making this video!
I have an older off brand copy of this windlass. I have had it apart and together so many times it has zippers on it now, :
I'm buying one today, will be rebuilding as per this video. Thanks!
Excellent. Many thanks for taking the time to do this. I've just bought an old Sea Tiger 555 - this will be my third! Useful tip for everyone - these are getting harder to source and so from now on (unlike my previous two) I will be removing it from the boat should I sell the boat. This is my last Sea Tiger and from now on it's staying with me!
Thanks for the video. I'm about to put mine back together. I'll pass along a tip - use diesel fuel to remove the grease. That was really tough for me, and someone gave me that advice.
Hi Andrew. Great video. Just removed our winch after a failure at sea in rough weather. The brake drum roll pin sheared off. Strip down and replacement taking place now. Your video is helping a great deal. Many thanks. Tom (uk).
I was just given a bound up ST555 yesterday, your video is outstanding. Thanks for all all the time and effort for that work. I’ll be working on mine the best I can from the cockpit of my sailboat as I cruise around.
Wow, great deal to get one for free. With a little work, you'll probably have yourself a solid windlass for very little cost. Good luck!
Thank you for your clear video.
I just found it after fixing hardly my S-L 555 (Seatiger).
But it works fine now.
It is a VERY good windlass for my Bruce anchor (30 Kg) (65 pounds) and chain 3/8 (280 feets).
Serge Charbonneau
Québec
That was an excellent tutorial. I would love one of those manual windlass'. Good quality, slow but reliable.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for that wonderful tutorial - a model of good demonstration. I have just bought a Seatiger on ebay and it is going to need some restoration. You have already answered several questions I had, one concerning the action of the pawl which is missing. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback - happy to hear that the video was helpful! Good luck!
Hi Andy, hi Sarah. It was nice meeting you at the boatyard last night. Keep up posting great videos like this.
I just found the SL spare parts link in the comments. Thanks.
Well done. Thanks!
A really big help. I have been using this windlass on my boat for 12 years and did not want to replace it. I like the fact that it is a manual windlass. My springs had rusted apart. Now all is working great. Parts were easy to get. Powder coating is the way to go. My windlass did not have the extra washer mentioned in the video when I disassembled it and I did not install one.
Thanks sharing your experience regarding the extra washer. There were probably several idiosyncrasies along the production run. Good move to keep it as you found it.
Excellent video!
Thanks!
Excellent video Andy. I've had an SL 555 windlass on my boat since 1979 and its been one of the most reliable pieces of equipment. I would not recommend putting hands near the chain gypsy while letting go anchor. Should use the handle to control the speed that the chain runs out. You need all your fingers intact! Since I've just replaced the manual windlass for an electric (I'm almost 2x as old as the windlass!), I'm looking for a new home for the SL 555. Free of charge, (except shipping). It's a earlier version of the one you rebuilt. There are no gears; the drive system uses two roller chains with sprockets and sprag clutches (one-way) on the gypsy shaft. The action is the same, with high-speed and low speed and double acting crank mechanism. Examining it with bottom cover removed I believe it can be restored to as-new condition by simply replacing bushings on the drive and idler sprockets, which can be done at any machine shop. Like your project, the biggest job is the disassembly!
Rick Whitaker, I’ll take it.
Thanks for the great video. It looks like you pretty much packed it full of grease. Last time I serviced my SL555, John McMaster from slspares advised only 400 grams grease. I know a lot of folks fill them up like you did - and I think that’s what I did the first time I serviced it (it’s 37 years old now). What are your thoughts on this?
I’m just ripping into one with a seized mainshaft (Craigslist find), so I would love to see a video of the disassembly process
Why do you think my gypsy doesn't free spin after loosening the nut? I have to take the chain out in order to drop the anchor. Hauls up just fine. Thanks for the video. New boat with this setup.
Thank you for the excellent video - it will be a great help when I finally get around to rebuilding and installing mine. Can you tell me which gypsy you have and what chain you are using? I have the B80 which handles a variety of chain according to the manual: 5/16 BBB, 5/16 American hi test, a couple of proprietary Simpson Lawrence 5/16 chains, and "most European 8 mm". Don't know which one(s) it's optimized for. I've tried some 5/16 G40 and it doesn't seem to fit all that great - next step is to try some 8 mm G40 / G43 - I see there are slightly different sizes of 8 mm out there. Thanks again - a great public service! Cheers
Glad to hear the video is helpful. Thanks for the feedback. My gypsy is an RCB70. Before buying anything new, check the owner's manual - it will tell you exactly what fits each gypsy. You might find a PDF online. Offhand, I'm not positive what chain we have. It's important to make sure it matches but equally important to have the windlass mounted high enough off the deck so that the gypsy grabs / wraps enough chain around it. Otherwise, the chain can slip. Good luck.
Had a question for you.
We picked up a used SL555 for fairly cheap a couple years ago with the view of giving it a good rebuild, new bushings and whatever else needed replacing internally, and using it on our Roughwater 33.
I have become increasingly worried however about the level of wear it has and whether a rebuild will be able to truly bring it back to 100 percent. There is almost a 1/4" of slop in the main shaft for starters, and I'm worried new bushings may not totally bring it back. I'm starting to realize that when the last owner "serviced" it he probably didn't put it back together correctly, clearly the clutch "cone" is now nonexistant, the low speed spindle has somehow become disconnected internally and doesnt function (the previous owner did tell us about this.) He also filled it with oil instead of grease..
By the way the previous owner talked about it I think he had issues with it, and simply continued to use it, as it was getting worse and worse. So it may have been damaged beyond repair. I truly hope this isn't the case.
How much endplay was there in the shafts of your windlass before your rebuild?
Andy thanks for taking the time to make this great video , would it be possible to give the contact details for the spares in Scotland as I'm trying to identify the gypsy on my 555
I am considering buying one of these windlasses, the previous owner partial dismantled it and dropped a part inside the windlass, Thanks to your video I am sure that it was the key for the upper lever mechanism. I noted that you used grease in the windlass, the PO used oil as there is an oil fill fitting on the starboard side. Is grease the better option? Lastly, the main shaft was loose (wobbly), does that mean wear on the shaft or bad bearings?
Andrew. I just got my new Gypsies for 10mm chain, the 8 slot for the 8mm was skipping obviously when i upgraded my chain size. I have a new chain stripper and set screw and like you, need to drill my set screw out. Would you be so kind to tell me how you did this and size of what you used? thanks so much in advance. David
Hi Andy, thank you for an excellent video on the Seatiger. I just bought one myself and it doesn't need rebuilding at this time, but I do want to clean it up and repaint the surfaces. The drum has some sort of black matte coating on it, do you know what this is. Something special, or just black matte spray paint. Thanks Joe
Hi Joe. Thanks for the feedback. Your drum is likely anodized. Anodizing is much stronger than spray paint. Good luck with your new windlass.
Exceptional video Andrew. Great tips about the shortcomings of the manuals drawing too. Did you happen to take any footage of the original dismantling process? Many sources say it's incredibly difficult to get some of the parts out so it would be extremely helpful to see how much effort is required and how much force can safely be applied before tackling this job on my boat. If you did take footage, please let me know via the comments box how anyone might access it. It wouldn't have to be edited or anything, just some raw footage of the process. Again, great job on both the windlass and the video. Many people will be grateful I'm sure.
Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately, I only have a few pictures of the disassembly - no video. We're brand new to filming these types of projects, but if I come across another SeaTiger to restore, we will be sure to video the entire disassembly process. Disassembly can be a big challenge. Ours needed ample amounts of care and brute force. I used wood shims between the sides of the gears and the inside of the case, so that the shaft could be hammered through, while the gear remained stationary. A map gas torch should be on hand to heat and expand any gears that don't budge after a few strong hammer taps.
Thanks Andrew!
Thanks so much. I just disassembled mine. I don't believe it has ever been apart and it is one of the older ones. Shafts all rusted so it took considerable heat and force. I'll follow your guide for assembly. Where can I get a manual and is the parts place SL Spares?
Way to go. Yes; SL Spares is the best source for parts. They even sell a copy of the manual. I found an original copy with my boat's paperwork. Good luck on the reassembly!
Thanks for the detailed video. Did I miss it or did you not mention the 2 springs part 31 ?
David Ray good question about the springs. I may not have mentioned them specifically. My springs appeared to be in good condition, so I elected to reinstall them. New ones can be purchased, if needed. Start watching at the 9:45 mark to see how they fit in.
Hey mate, thanks for that. I will be rebuilding mine soon and will link back to your video as a helpful source
Did you have much trouble removing the drum from the port side? Mine is properly siezed on and i am wondering how you got yours off.
Thanks mate.
Thanks. Happy to help.
The drum is pressed onto the shaft and there is also a key and retaining bolt. The drum must be removed before that shaft can be pulled out. My drum popped off without much difficulty (by using wood shims and a pry bar, working around the circumference patiently). The drum is aluminum and the shaft and key are steel, so there's potential for corrosion. Let some penetrating oil sit on it for a few days. Then some hammer taps and heat if that doesn't work. Good luck.
Andrew, my drum doesn’t have a bolt. Would you know how it’s held on?
I used a 6 inch jaw puller to remove the drum. It had the benefit of pressing out the mainshaft through the housing as well for the first inch or so. Then some moderate mallet taps removed the mainshaft. I bought the jaw puller for $20 from HarborFreight.com.
Hi Andrew, I want to convert my SL Seatiger 555 manual windlass to a hydraulic/ manual. Any ideas how to accomplish this?
When did they begin production of these Sea Tigers? I have an old one myself
Good question on the production history - but I don't know the answer. Hopefully someone else knows and can add a comment. It seems like these windlasses have a small yet strong and growing group of traditionally-minded advocates.
Hey Andrew great video, I have an issue with my upper spindle It slips when under load, the lower seems to work fine.
Suggestions?
Good question. My first thought would be one of the little springs is damaged.
@@andrewoq or I sheared the keyway
Either way it'll have to wait off the mystic for the wooden boat show, if worse comes to worse there's always a chain hook and the jib sheet winches
Hey am I supposed to grease the clutch cone?
How do you get a hold of this fellow in Scotland.
I have an all bronze case and perhaps a copy made in Taiwan. The internal parts and gipsy appear to be the same. Do you have any experience with the bronze case?
A bronze case sounds awesome. I have no personal repair experience with that type of windlass; but all things being equal, I would rather have a bronze case. Bare bronze and its natural patina should hold up to the environment better than the powder coating on cast aluminum.
About how much grease in total did you pack it with.
My gasket was leaking, so I installed a new one. Added about half a tube of grease at that time as it looked a bit low. Was not packed as much as yours though. Now the windlas is very stiff and difficult to operate. Where might I have gone wrong? I plan to try to regrease asap.
I would like to rebuild as you have done, but unable to just now, and I need the windlass to operate!
I recall it took 3 or 4 regular sized tubes of grease to fill when bone dry. That grease is important. Good luck reviving yours!
Who is that guitarist on the background music please?
What was the guys contact info for the parts? Grreat video, just bought a SeaTiger today.
I bought spare parts from here:
slspares.co.uk/parts.php?product=Seatiger+555+Windlass
Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your windlass.
do you have the contact details for the guy in Scotland please ?Thanks !
Very helpful video! I am curious about how your white powder coat has held up after a year of use. I am about to disassemble my Seatiger 555 to service it. The polyurethane paint was chipped and falling off and I stripped the winch down to the bare aluminum. I am considering leaving my winch without a finish as the galvanized chain seemed to easily strip off the paint when the chain rubbed against the winch housing. So, do you have any thoughts about leaving a bare aluminum housing vs powder coating?
Thanks for your comment. That's a really great question about whether to leave as bare aluminum. I considered it myself. Ultimately, I chose to powder coat because I felt it would look better. The coating has held up very well so far. Obviously I am careful not to chip it. If you anticipate a lot of abuse, I would suggest getting it sandblasted to make the surface uniform then leaving it bare. It will oxidize and future wear and tear won't look nearly as bad. Be sure to electrically isolate the anchor bolts. That's really important. If stainless or bronze bolts touch a bare aluminum case, those areas of the case will corrode very quickly!
Hello Andrew, could you post the name and address of the man in Scotland to get the parts? Or on a private message by email? Thank you so much
Hi, can I ask for help identifying and dealing with my old manual windlass. I can not identify it. in the casting is says GOLO7 It is working but not freewheeling.
hypermedia . Mike at Gml