Very good demonstration of burr removal and sharpening technique. People if you want a skill that will give you an understanding of how to care for your tools learn and try to emulate this mans technique. This is a master sharpener and his tips are golden! Go back and watch his earlier videos and practice, practice, practice! Thank you sir for keeping this skill alive!
I remember back as a late teenager trying to pick up hand sharpening with Arkansas’s I would quit too soon before developing a Burr and going to the next stone and from then on I was just polishing a turd snag paper just would not cut
I think we all have been there at one time or another. I know I was. You can do it with the old carbon stuff. And a few stainless. But not on this newer steel.
hope you people pay attention removing that burr is the key to sharp, it really is that simple and that important you will never get a knife to stay sharp unless the burr is completely removed at the lower grits. so important hope you people can understand this. Hope this reinforcement of importance statement helps someone to finally get the edge they strive for. higher grits are not required for shaving either, as long as you remove the burr fully, you can have a 220 grit edge and strop on some leather and get hair popping sharp, understand it has everything to do with a true apex meaning no burr left in the end. Hope this helps someone.
Yeah Benchmade s30v is really good, i got my 570 presidio II a week or so ago and it was amazing out of the box a little inconsistent with the factory sharpening, but i always put on my on edge anyways, i haven't found out s30v being chippy at all, i think a lot of people just hone their edges for too long and don't de-stress the steel therefore making it weakened and eventually it will chip, i strop my edges max. 4 times before total resharpening ( starting with 320 DMT ) to avoid this.
This video was perfect for where I am learning to sharpen knives. I'll believe I have a decent apex, knock off the burr, and it won't cut worth a damn. I'll give it a couple of passes on a sharpening steel and BAM! It cuts. I guessed the residual burr was the culprit, but how could I get it knocked lose? You've just showed me! Thanks for an excellent lesson.
Solid advise here, 320 grit diamond is gonna leave large burr, but when you advance to higher grit stones you'll probably won't detect the burr anymore with feeling or just looking at it, there i would recommend to turn off the lights and take a flashlight and look at the apex from multiple angles and both sides, for long i was happy with the edges i was putting on, but i seemd to lose the absolute hair popping edge faster than i should, and found out it was because of the micro burr i still had on, a lot of times you can't clear it off with strokes on the stone thats where a strop comes in handy, i went back to using my old bare leather belt to snap that off, because 1 micron strop won't do it it, will only maintain or even enlarge the burr, a 4 micron might do it, but just "rough" average belt seems to work just fine. This is just general advise for anyone reading the comments, i mostly picked this up from Michael Christy aaand it works crazy good 😁👍
I wont go back in grit. If you sharpen your blade properly that wont happen. This is why its important to have good light. Glints are key to finding the burr. Ive got to where I can just find em and remove them with the stone. I'll refine on strops
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening I've gotten where I can barely feel a burr coming off translucent but I can't off the black . I can see tiny groves in the oil slurry , like tiny teeth raking in the film of oil . I've hand lapped a 12 x12 granite stone and then lapped my black on one side down to 2500 grit . Used pencils grids marks . The granite stone and black were so flat they locked together , had to slide them off . Now I don't have any , " speed bumps " in my stone . I'm so close to getting the edge I want but not there yet . My strop with green compound is NOT helping . Looking into different compounds or diamond sprays . When I look at my best edges they almost look polished micro convex edges . Like you say , it's not humanly possible to keep perfect angles . Every time . Sometimes I blame the steel , ( I know , a excuse ) but some steels are easier for me . Love O1 , s35v . Buck buck knives steels is hard for me to get shaving sharp , I can get it the cut paper , shave a little hair but not shaving or surgical sharp . Got to be me .
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening green chromium compound . I only have one strop , made a bunch out of oak , paddle style , used heat gun to charge leather , might still have some leather around here left over. Looking at flex cut and diamond sprays that is used in lapping to optical flatness where they use helium light to measure flatness . I don't want the diamond crystals that break down ( mono ) but the poly . I think . Still learning about lapping . Someone gave me some silicon carbide grease , 180 grit and 280 grit that I used to lap granite block . People at VA were going to throw it away because someone used it as a cutting board . It took it and repaired it . It would make a great wicked edge base but I've turned it into my flat lapping plate . Used wet dry silicon carbide paper to 2500 grit . Think about using FLITZ . Every strop with it ?
Excellent as always! Tell me, why the switch from Diasharp to Duosharp? And why no Dawn and water? Video on comparing those two types of stones? Just a thought.
The duo Sharp is only my coarse and extra coarse. I got it cheap. I still have my other dmt plates. The holes hold the loose metal and seem to work better dry. For the price I couldnt complain 👍
I'm in a burr rut, I guess you could say. I do the 5-5-4-4-3-3-2-2-1-1 and light alternating strokes like youve taught me. Ive tried raising thevangle Im sharpening at, the amount of pressure im using and stropping (i know thats a no no) and nothing seems to be working. Any knife, any steel. I dont feel like my technique has changed. Im just kind of at a loss right now. I'll figure it out, somehow.
It depends. My sharpening is so precise i dont have to alot of times. I have videos where i whittle hair straight off a black Arkansas a translucent Arkansas and a few others.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Interesting. I have an interrupted surface dmt fine/extra fine - I prefer to add soap and water on it because it makes the feedback easier for me to read but Ive never had issues with loading even when used dry, maybe because as you mentioned the steel gravitates to the holes
Very good demonstration of burr removal and sharpening technique. People if you want a skill that will give you an understanding of how to care for your tools learn and try to emulate this mans technique. This is a master sharpener and his tips are golden! Go back and watch his earlier videos and practice, practice, practice! Thank you sir for keeping this skill alive!
Yes please do. And Thank you for your kind words
I remember back as a late teenager trying to pick up hand sharpening with Arkansas’s I would quit too soon before developing a Burr and going to the next stone and from then on I was just polishing a turd snag paper just would not cut
I think we all have been there at one time or another. I know I was. You can do it with the old carbon stuff. And a few stainless. But not on this newer steel.
hope you people pay attention removing that burr is the key to sharp, it really is that simple and that important you will never get a knife to stay sharp unless the burr is completely removed at the lower grits. so important hope you people can understand this. Hope this reinforcement of importance statement helps someone to finally get the edge they strive for. higher grits are not required for shaving either, as long as you remove the burr fully, you can have a 220 grit edge and strop on some leather and get hair popping sharp, understand it has everything to do with a true apex meaning no burr left in the end. Hope this helps someone.
Great instructions and great advice for all those guys looking to make a difference with their new found skill 😊
This is definitely my favorite video of yours. This is great result and just plain gets it done.
Thank you. Great demonstration and explanation on the wire burr and it’s removal. 👍👍
Well done. Sharp edge with coarse, makes an even sharper edge with fine.
100% correct. Good Lord someone finally gets that!
Excellent video. You have just confirmed some of my theories on how to sharpen a knife well. Keep them coming!
Good deal
Great info. Thank you.
Very useful video with excellent sharpening technique and what can sometimes be pesky burr removal to reveal the true sharpened edge. Nice job Chris.
Thanks Steve. Burrs can indeed be a pain
I have spent the past couple of days and binge watched all your videos and I have watched every one
Dang man. Thats a lot!
It took me a week
@@default186 Damn man
No offense, RR, but he's clearly out of his mind
Yeah Benchmade s30v is really good, i got my 570 presidio II a week or so ago and it was amazing out of the box a little inconsistent with the factory sharpening, but i always put on my on edge anyways, i haven't found out s30v being chippy at all, i think a lot of people just hone their edges for too long and don't de-stress the steel therefore making it weakened and eventually it will chip, i strop my edges max. 4 times before total resharpening ( starting with 320 DMT ) to avoid this.
Just may be the single best demonstration of a burr removal on CZcams!. “Pay attention” lol, you bet I am. Very nice job.
Kenny Manchester I appreciate that. That’s a very important step to a good edge.
This video was perfect for where I am learning to sharpen knives. I'll believe I have a decent apex, knock off the burr, and it won't cut worth a damn. I'll give it a couple of passes on a sharpening steel and BAM! It cuts. I guessed the residual burr was the culprit, but how could I get it knocked lose? You've just showed me! Thanks for an excellent lesson.
No problem. Thank you
Solid advise here, 320 grit diamond is gonna leave large burr, but when you advance to higher grit stones you'll probably won't detect the burr anymore with feeling or just looking at it, there i would recommend to turn off the lights and take a flashlight and look at the apex from multiple angles and both sides, for long i was happy with the edges i was putting on, but i seemd to lose the absolute hair popping edge faster than i should, and found out it was because of the micro burr i still had on, a lot of times you can't clear it off with strokes on the stone thats where a strop comes in handy, i went back to using my old bare leather belt to snap that off, because 1 micron strop won't do it it, will only maintain or even enlarge the burr, a 4 micron might do it, but just "rough" average belt seems to work just fine. This is just general advise for anyone reading the comments, i mostly picked this up from Michael Christy aaand it works crazy good 😁👍
I wont go back in grit. If you sharpen your blade properly that wont happen. This is why its important to have good light. Glints are key to finding the burr. Ive got to where I can just find em and remove them with the stone. I'll refine on strops
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening I've gotten where I can barely feel a burr coming off translucent but I can't off the black . I can see tiny groves in the oil slurry , like tiny teeth raking in the film of oil . I've hand lapped a 12 x12 granite stone and then lapped my black on one side down to 2500 grit . Used pencils grids marks . The granite stone and black were so flat they locked together , had to slide them off . Now I don't have any , " speed bumps " in my stone . I'm so close to getting the edge I want but not there yet . My strop with green compound is NOT helping . Looking into different compounds or diamond sprays . When I look at my best edges they almost look polished micro convex edges . Like you say , it's not humanly possible to keep perfect angles . Every time . Sometimes I blame the steel , ( I know , a excuse ) but some steels are easier for me . Love O1 , s35v . Buck buck knives steels is hard for me to get shaving sharp , I can get it the cut paper , shave a little hair but not shaving or surgical sharp . Got to be me .
@@sam4yeshua214 what kinda green compound are you using. And your on the right track. I know what u mean about the stones locking together
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening green chromium compound . I only have one strop , made a bunch out of oak , paddle style , used heat gun to charge leather , might still have some leather around here left over. Looking at flex cut and diamond sprays that is used in lapping to optical flatness where they use helium light to measure flatness . I don't want the diamond crystals that break down ( mono ) but the poly . I think . Still learning about lapping . Someone gave me some silicon carbide grease , 180 grit and 280 grit that I used to lap granite block . People at VA were going to throw it away because someone used it as a cutting board . It took it and repaired it . It would make a great wicked edge base but I've turned it into my flat lapping plate . Used wet dry silicon carbide paper to 2500 grit . Think about using FLITZ . Every strop with it ?
@@sam4yeshua214 flitz it way way to fine. Get some dmt paste. It'll be all you need. Also check out pasa goi compound.
great vid man.
Cheers good instruction
Excellent as always! Tell me, why the switch from Diasharp to Duosharp? And why no Dawn and water? Video on comparing those two types of stones? Just a thought.
The duo Sharp is only my coarse and extra coarse. I got it cheap. I still have my other dmt plates. The holes hold the loose metal and seem to work better dry. For the price I couldnt complain 👍
Can you list your stand and 320 grit dry you said? any links would be helpful cause I don't know what to buy and they are expensive
I'm in a burr rut, I guess you could say. I do the 5-5-4-4-3-3-2-2-1-1 and light alternating strokes like youve taught me. Ive tried raising thevangle Im sharpening at, the amount of pressure im using and stropping (i know thats a no no) and nothing seems to be working. Any knife, any steel. I dont feel like my technique has changed. Im just kind of at a loss right now. I'll figure it out, somehow.
It'll eventually come to you man. It's just one of them time allotted things.
thank you very much,i want to know
when this forms the burr is it pushing or coming back
thank you
You have to form one on both sides. So the answer is both
I know this is a dumb question to ask but how do you tell what angle 📐 to sharpen at
I recommend sharpening at the angle your hand wants to lay. It's not a dumb question if you don't know.
No stropping to finish?🤔
It depends. My sharpening is so precise i dont have to alot of times. I have videos where i whittle hair straight off a black Arkansas a translucent Arkansas and a few others.
Burr removal hard thing for me do to
Why did you use the stone dry?
Because this is a inconsistant plate. The holes kinda hold the metal just seems to work better dry on this type for coarse and extra coarse anyway
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Interesting. I have an interrupted surface dmt fine/extra fine - I prefer to add soap and water on it because it makes the feedback easier for me to read but Ive never had issues with loading even when used dry, maybe because as you mentioned the steel gravitates to the holes
@@jabesmond8401 thats how I use my plates. I just like doing reprofiling this way
Yes, need to remove the burr