Telescopic gauges, how it's made and how they're used + comparing 3 brands
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- This video will show how a telescopic gauge ( also called snap gauge, or telescoping gauge ) is made and also how to use it in order to get precise measures of inside bores, I'll use a Mitutoyo, Asimeto, Oldak, Starrett... Since telescope gauges are indirect measuring tools, I'll show how to transfer the reading accurately to a micrometer. Also recommendations on what quality to purchase and what to expect for the price as quality is concerned. The comparisons will show some differences due to price.
To see how I measured the reference ring used for the demo I invite you to watch this video:
• Best way to measure an...
Thank you for watching... !!!
Hope you enjoy, please subscribe, like and comment...
Pierre Beaudry - Jak na to + styl
Greetings Pierre....I really enjoyed this this video. I have been a maintenance engineer on helicopters for more than forty years and as the "old guy " in the shop it is a big part of my job to mentor the young guys that I work with. Gems like this video make it to easier to pass on important bits of information to these guys. They are for the most part, smart and keen but like my kids, they get tired of listening to me and someone that has a youtube channel is more likely to keep their attention. You do a great job of explaining things. Thanks much and keep it up.
Hi Jay,
This is an overwhelming comment.... Not certain to deserve all of this.... Thank you so much...!!!
One of the advantage them kids got with CZcams, they can shut it off if they get tired of hearing it... lol
Again, thank you and I'll try to deserve all that praise, Pierre
Outstanding tutorial. Thanks for sharing your in depth understanding and your Q/A.
purchased a set of telescoping gauges at a estate sale for $3.00. needed some cleaning and discovered a problem with 2 gauges unscrewed the handle to clean and oil. more parts appeared w/springs oh that screws back into here no way worked at it for about a hour no luck. come back tomorrow and try again decided to go on line to see what info i could find your video popped up, okay now i know what i was doing wrong. 15 minutes the next morning they were both back together and clean thank you for the info. saved me the thought of scrapping them and looking for replacements.
Hi, I'm glad it worked out for your, thanks for taking a moment to leave anice comment, Pierre
Thank you,very informative I now get more consistent results. A bit late in life at 83 but it has always been a hobby workshop for me and what I have made over the last 50 years has always worked (do have a scrap bin though).
Don't worry about being late, just say to yourself that it's never too late to do good....
Yep.... Got a scrap bin, the whole shop sometimes... lol
Thanks for comment, Pierre
Super helpful video, Pierre. I have been hoping someone would go in depth on the use of the telescopic gauge. It was particularly interesting to see the inside works of the gauge, and your instructions on using the gauge were really useful. You are making very useful videos and I appreciate your efforts. Thank you!
Hi Jim, I'm that glad you and other viewers would get good info from the videos, thanks for the nice comment, Pierre
Thank you for this I live in an ocean environment and this showed me how to maintain these. They are redialy available used here with slight rust discoloration. Being able to restore them would extend the life. As long as the tips are not damaged they are useable.
Those salty air climates are quite hard on steel, a good maintenance is required in order to keep the tools from corrosion dammages, if you search a little there are some lubricants tha will protect steel from surface rust by leaving a lite protective coating on your tools. 🌈👍
I hope you manage to come back and make more videos Pierre, these are so incredibly useful and I would love more
I'm having plans to be back, can't make a promise on how and when, though...
Thanks for your nice comment, Pierre 🌈👍
Very nice demonstration!
Thank you Pierre !
Hi Eddy, thanks for comment, Pierre
Thanks very much for this video, probably one of the best on youtube covering this topic! I've been watching a few prior to this one, but they all focus only on technique for use. While that's important, you have also included the take-apart information that is both very interesting and also provides some additional insights into how method of use relates to the mechanical structure and interactions among the component parts.
I just received the 5-piece Mitutoyo telescping gauge set (155-904). The telescoping action is stiff (probably because they need to be relubricated). I was just going to start unscrewing things and hope for the best. Your take-apart gives me a full understanding of what to expect. It will be interesting to see whether there are any meaningful differences in the basic design of the component parts. It's videos like this that make youtube such a valuable resource!
Thanks for viewing and taking a moment to leave a great comment.... Pierre
Excellent tutorial, Pierre.
Hi Richard, Thanks for nice comment, Pierre
Great video Pierre!
I haven't seen anything quite so detailed in the operation, and the look in side was insightful! :)
Hi Adam, glad you enjoyed and thanks for comment, Pierre
Thanks Pierre! I have a set of Scherr-Tumico's that are made in Japan and I swear they look just like the Mitutoyo's. It just feels like a quality tool in-hand. I bought them used and the smallest was sticking. I am glad I remembered this video before I started unscrewing stuff to investigate.
Great this helped you....
Good quality tools is always the est investment. I remémorer once having to use a cheap set of those, the sphere wasn't right, so results were all wrong.
Thanks Pierre.... great explanation! Watched Adam using them and wondered how they worked. .. Now I know....
Those tools are like mentionned, verry precise and repeatable, but, need to be mastered... ;)
Thanks for comment, Pierre
Thanks, another well presented and clear instructional video. I have an aged Moore and Wright set of four gauges, slightly worn I think. Practicing with them has reduced the variation in measurement to around 0.01mm ..... chasing anything less for my workshop will require new micrometers and then a lot more practice in getting consistent readings off of them. Great to see the different reading nose diameters and variation caused.
All the best. mat
Getting .01mm is a pretty good result, like you say you only get as good as the weaker link will let you have....
Thanks for comment, Pierre
Very informative. Thanks Pierre!
+Wildman Tech You're welcome and thanks for comment, Pierre
Very good video Pierre, about all I could add is the cheaper one's if there not extremely smooth they need pulling apart. Then inspect very carefully for burrs and grit left inside. Stone off any burrs,then wash all the parts with some solvent. A drop or two of fine instrument oil doesn't hurt either.That will make a huge difference for anyone with a cheap set. If the pins hang up at all it will throw the measurement off. Add up the time involved remaking a few scrapped parts and after a bit the more expensive one's start looking like the better deal. If I had to I'd rather have a very good set of telescoping gauges and cheaper mikes. The micrometers are a lot easier to test and calibrate for correct readings.
Agreed with you about getting a cheaper micrometer, the telescopic gauges often present flaws in the making and also on the hape of the parabolas that in some cases aren't right, to be able to measure tenth of inches you need a real well constructed tool that will react smoothly during the procedure to measure the bore...
Thanks for your input and comment, Pierre
Thanks so much for taking the time to shoot, edit, upload, & sharing this video Pierre. Never mind Randy Richard, he has too many tools. Send those worn out Starretts to my house. Wink; Wink.
Thanks viewing for nice comment, those little Starrett aren't that worn and still useful in smaller or tighter areas, I know it's a little selfish of me to keep all the stash... lol
Pierre
Very helpful video. I now know proper use of this tool. Thank you.
Hi Roy, it's nice of you to take the time to say you got something from the video, thanks, Pierre
Very helpful, Pierre.
Thanks,
John
Thanks for comment, Pierre
Thanks very much for this - l have never taken one apart to see how they are constructed. I have a nice set of older Starrett gauges that I bought used for around $50 for the 6- piece set. They are in very nice shape, and as you say, are top quality tools. I have purchased a lot of used tools for my hobby shop and feel that, even though once in a while you get burned, overall you can build up a good set of used high-quality tools for about what you would pay for inferior-quality new stuff.
You're totally right about the fact of purchassing better tools on the used market, I also got a couple of bad deals, but, in general it goes real good and the tools are in great shape. Great savings.... ;)
Thanks for your input and comment, Pierre
i tend to not use them on camera, as i have a fight nearly about the best way to use them in the comments section. now i can jsut refer them all here! thanks. good video though, you are right, they are a good tool in an experienced hand.
Yep, those great tools need some getting used to in order to get consistent and accurate results, I'm glad that my teacher showed me right in school...
Cheers, Pierre
Thanks for the video on telescope gages I have problems with them but have learned from watching videos Thanks again
You're welcome, I' glad if you get something from it and thanks for taking time to comment, Pierre
Thanks very much. Good presentation . Very helpful to the beginner. I have subscribed and will be looking forward to more of this type videos.
Thanks for subscribing and I'll try to produce other videos on metrology and many other subjects related to metal working, glad you enjoyed and took the time to tell your appreciation, Pierre
Very clear and easy to understand. Thanks
Thank you for a nice comment, Pierre
Pierre's Garage in the past 20years befor my dream was to travel abroad to improve my skills but I couldn't make this dream in real life today my dream comes alive with you youtube teacher's every single video take me to a nice trip overther all the world. So thanks you all to give us this opportunity. 😘😘😘
Good Video Pierre. Very good tutorial. Can't beat good tools.
Cheers Fred
Hi Fred , just like you mention better tools are an advantage in a shop, they perform better and longer...
Cheers, Pierre
Great video! thanks for sharing. I learned a lot.
You're welcome and thanks for comment, Pierre
Very well done. Very well explained.
Glad you liked and thanks for taking a moment to leave a comment, Pierre
@@pierresgarage2687 the only comment would be that detail of the two surfaces and little pin around 2:35 is hard to see. A detailed photo would be helpful. I guess that the surfaces are smooth
@@therealspixycat The bigger tube is with a slot that allows the pin to reach the slot in the smaller tube, the slot in the smaller tube isn't fully open so the bottom surface of the slot is the area where the friction from the smaller pin occurs... If not clear just let me know.
@@pierresgarage2687 so the small pin imposes only pressure on the inner tube? And the inner pushes on the outer one?
This are tiny details but really helps understanding how to properly use them.
Very well done.
Hi Jack, thanks for comment, Pierre
Great info again!
Hi Jster1963, thanks for comment, Pierre
Nice tool lesson. Keep on keeping on.
Hi Harold, glad you enjoyed, Thanks for visit, Pierre
Good video. I like the comparisons. It's always interesting to let a few different people try to measure a diameter and write down each try then show them the actual numbers (especially if it's an odd number that's not clear). The readings are all over the place. It's best you practice too before you do it :)
When experienced people make the measurements, the results are within a very close margin of error, if you try the same experiement with a group of less experienced subjects, you would be surprised how wide the spread is...
Normally the experienced group will achieve plus or minus a few tenth of a thousand on an inch, as the less experienced ones will spread over sometimes over many thousands of difference.....
Controled and rigourous practice makes better and quite accurate, and, lastly consistant results is a must to make serious quality control.
Again Thanks for the info. Great video.
You're welcome and thanks for comment, Pierre
Good video - Thanks.
Jack
Thank you for comment, Pierre
THANK YOU.
You're welcome and thank you for comment, Pierre
Hi Pierre !
I very nice and instructical video ... thx !
Hi Keld, Glad you liked and thanks for comment, Pierre
Bonjour Pierre. Excellente démonstration! Salutations. Daniel
Bonsoir Daniel, ça fait un moment, j'espère que tu vas bien... Justement, demain avec Philippe nous allons chez un revendeur d'outils qui pourrait se révéler mieux que les encans du gov. si tu veux je pourrai t'en reparler.
Merci pour la petite visite, Pierre
Nous allons bien, juste que les dernières semaines ont été follement ocupées. Oui, j'aimerais bien en savoir plus au sujet de ce revendeur :) Merci!
Je te reviendrai bientôt avec plus de détails...
Keep producing these videos as it keeps Baily from slave driving me so hard working on his dog house when he stops to watch them. We all need a break sometime! :-)
Hi Brian, there are a few tricks to help you with Bailey: 1 make the video play half speed, 2 I've got some of my older videos that will put any dog or human to sleep, 3 Or I' could just for Bailey make specially long and boring videos (Even more than this....) lol
I realize it's kinda randomly asking but do anybody know of a good website to stream newly released movies online ?
@Aiden Samuel Try FlixZone. You can find it on google =)
W-MACHINE Woody
Very good and informative video Pierre, about a tool that is often misused, and misunderstood. One thing tho, Pierre, wiggling the gauge as it is withdrawn from the part being measured causes plungers to be depressed a small amount which will introduce inaccuracy in the reading. One smooth motion is far more repeatable. and more likely the reason for the difference in dimensions in the last gauge tested and not because of the difference in the tip radius.
There are a couple of times I found some cheaper sets with improper shaped ends, it happens mostly on smaller diameter tools, the little bit of wiggling doesn't affect the accuracy on better quality tools, telescopic gauges are tools where you want to buy high quality brands and maintain them in good working conditions.
Remember they require a "Feel" for it, even much more so on cheaper and less quality brand tools...
Thanks for viewing and taking some time to share your experiences, Pierre
I love my old telescope gauges best - they only have one moveable end - suits me better. I have some cheepo double ended ones but don't like those so much at all.
There is a lot of ''feel'' involved with using these. Nice review Pierre.
Hi Chris,
Same thinking here, the older tools are mostly better crafted with more attention to details, better quality control. I agree that companies always need to make money, but, there was a time long ago when people also had pride accomplishing the task, it seems by now that profit is the only bottom line... And, any shortcut is allowed........ :(
Thanks for comment, Pierre
Agree. The only ones that work for me consistently well are an old set of Lufkin gages that have only one telescoping portion.
I see you are taking a very measured approach to your videos these days., very informative , thanks
Hi Jim,
"a very measured approach" good one.... lol
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for comment, Pierre
Quick question for a novice, could I not just use a vernier to measure the inner diameter of a bore instead of this telescoping guage set? what would be the advantage of using this over a Vernier? Just getting into machining now to pass the time since I'll be off work for a while as I recover from a motorcycle accident and haven't been able to keep my hands off the mill, definitely a rewarding experience to create something with your own hands. I now have a lot of respect for all you machinists out there cause it take's a lot more skill than meets the eye, anyway great channel and you got a new subscriber
Hi Kevin,
Welcome in... Glad you want to get into the trade.
The telescoping gauges are way more precise than a vernier, cause it will retain the measurement better, also that after you'll use a micrometer to make the reading, this method is kinda second best in measuring inside bores, the first one would be the three point inside mike, (Very costly), as for the vernier, it's by far, not considered as precise as a micrometer.
Maybe you could watch those 2 videos I've made, first one on outside measurement with vernier, second one inside measurements with a vernier, I think you'll understand quite well what are the main flaws about verniers, even the better ones...
czcams.com/video/VquhlPbIBzk/video.html
czcams.com/video/HpGUOTVBZ3c/video.html
Make sure you practice the "Special touch" when measuring, compare your readings with known references, try it blindfolded until you constantly get accurate and constant results.
Hope you love working with metal as much as I do, and, if you need help just speak out...
Cheers, Pierre
Thanks very much for the video, it helped me understand the principle and measuring process. I do have a question, however. Telescoping pins have flat edges, they are not pointy, meaning that the "diameter" being measured is not centered. It has an offset and therefore our readings will be smaller. How do we account for that? Thank you!
Just be aware that both ends of a telescopic gauge are spherical, this will make the gauge follow the curvature of the inside diameter. The better quality gauges are really taking care of having the dome properly shape in order to have only the apex touch the inside diameter during the measuring process. This is something you need to practice in order to acquire the proper touch, once you got it, your measures are quite reliable within at least half a thousand or even better...
@@pierresgarage2687 Pierre, thank you very much sir for an immediate response! Now I understand it! Never held these tools in my hands, learning how to use them before purchasing! I'm just a car enthusiast who needs to measure the potential out of round in cylinder bores. =)
I have a Lufkin "snap gage" that seems to be stuck . Are all the parts basically the same as far as the locking pin? I have it apart to the point the head is off and see no pin.The gage will not snap out.
Hi Mark,
I've never seen the Lufkin gauges, normally they are pretty much made the same, on yours there is possibly some corrosion or hopefully not, some damage by being lightly bent, without enough details I'm not able to see anything else that could help you to dismantle the tool...
You could send me some more picts or details on my Email if you need to:
wledpierre@gmail.com
It may take a little more time than usual to get back to since the wife and I are still on vacation...
Thanks for for viewing and for comment, Pierre
I got a set of Chicago brand at the area tool store, $25-$30 range. With a bit of friction, they are not super smooth like you might have with the preferred brands, but they have been consistent. They almost feel like a bit of grit got down in the works. I guess I should investigate that, now that I have an idea on how they go together.
The bottom of the groove in the smaller rod is rough. This is intentional. It grabs the lock pin mechanically, so the final sizing is done with the large sliding smoothly with friction surfaces between it and both the smaller pin and the body. Roughness comes from a number of places, but things to check are smooth bore of the body, clean and smooth ends of the larger pin, clean end of the smaller pin, clean bore of the large pin, and smooth outside of the smaller pin. It is critical that the contact surfaces be smooth opposite the slot and groove where sliding contact occurs. I tend to dress these surfaces and the edges at the telescoping ends with rouge if there is any question. A drop of oil and Bob's your uncle. The cheapies (Chicago, Harbour Freight) may have scalloping from the machining process, and a cylindrical grinder followed by lapping is the best fix, but careful lapping the pins parallel to the axis will help if the other things don't. Used Yausa, Lufkin, and Brown and Sharpe are about the same price as crummy new, and are much better. For some reason, Starrett and Mitu seem to go high, but are no better. The older Lufkin are actually my favourite.
That makes sense, as the rough feel is only if there is still a slight friction on it when you recess the pins to get it into the bore. Taking the measure, there seems to be no issue with with a sudden change in resistance, at least while measuring a reasonably smooth bore. If it is ridged or had a bearing spun in it, that's another story.
The older tools are often made with better care, and go through better quality control, even the geometry of the rounded ends make a huge difference. The more the surfaces have a regular finish the smoother the reading will be done, there are differences between individual tools, and we have to be able to deal with it to obtain consistant readings...
Sometimes a little care can bring a lousy tool to an acceptable performance, but, sadly, not everytime...
Thanks for comment, Pierre
Enjoyed that Pierre. I had some cheap ones and boy they aren't worth a pinch. My mits and starretts are so much nicer. :-)
Hi Colin,
Good quality tools are always doing a better job in the end, I've learned about that long ago....
Cheers, Pierre
Re the error vs previous measure:1) temperature will show. At roughly 3", figure 20 millionths/deg F, so 5degF is 0.0001". 2) the springback on the telescope gauge can be 0.0001 or more. Nature of the beast. 3) Spring in the ring. Not likely here to be enough to account for the discrepancy, but adds in. 4) asymmetry in the ends of the gauge. 5) other? I am curious of other possibilities
Hi John, since the gauge is an indirect measuring tool, it adds a couple of variances in the equation on top of what you mantionned, the friction and the point where the gauge will register the minimum, if there is or no release back at that point, and running after tenth of inches it doesn't take muck to affect the final result, a big factor is the operator's technique, this can vary from great to desastrous, like being a few thousand off from the real measure...
In fact it takes some practice and experience to get a good technique with those tools, and, get to be able to measure steadily within plus or minus a few tenths of an inch.
Thanks for your input and comment, Pierre
the ends your showing and the roundness it has , for me i like that the ones i use for motors are like that and again feel feel feel. but for me within a tenth of one thousand is good for a motor specially a vw air cooled is all i do anymore . thanks for showing again .
The older engines didn't have all the precision and metallurgy now employed in the newer engines, so wider tolerances weren't so much of a problem, and, then, engines weren't lasting so long as they do now...
Pierre
yes true most tolerances i use are connecting rods plus minus 2 thousands , and so is the crank bearings is enough , on american cars , the vw air cooled is a completely round bearing with a post that fits in the case , they have tolerances of about the same as american cars, you can make them closer of course but why ? mine are around .002 /-00025. no more and lets see the one i am riding every day here in inverness fl i rebluilt it about 7 years ago 80.000 miles and no smoke yet ! and we do me and the wife ride it everyday , its my hobby . especialy now our winter is coming wich is like your summers up there .
I'd like a Winter where the snow would be gone the same day it fell... lol
doent that happens once a while there , ? my family in montreal tell me that the winters are not as bad as they once where ? cool for you guys hey !
You hears right, Winters here are getting warmer, less snow, but, much more rain and freezing rain.... Not so cool about driving on ice with shiploads of salt on the roads...
nice job buddy, quick question, is it better to store them locked up or loose??
Hi Philippe, that doesn't matter as long as there is no humidity present and cause a rust spot at the contact point, just also don't store it too tight.
See Ya, Pierre
For smaller bores than 3/8" do you recommend pin gages or expanding micrometers?
Both can be used, the gauge pins will get you not closer to the closest thousand, unless you have a plus and also a minus set where you could get it a little closer like 0.0005" or just about... As for the expanding gauges it's pretty close from using the telescopic gauges, needs lots of practice also to nail it in every time you use it, and, in my opinion, could be more precise than gauge pins...
That could be the subject to a future video if I can get a few moments in my schedule...
Thanks for your input and comment, Pierre
Small hole gages are an option.
lets see how well you can read that ring when its mounted in the chuck of the lathe, with the telescoping gages
meocats not hard
i think the different feels between the telescoping gages is due to the hardness of the tips. Like, imagine a hardness tester kit; you scratch each file to see which one grabs. If its harder it doesn't grab if its softer it bites. Can you confirm the hardness of each telescoping gage?
This is a risky game, it's important to keep the surfaces and sides clear of burrs and irregularities to ensure proper operation, have to imagine a way to do this without damaging the plungers...
on the inside, or sacrifice one of the cheapo ones and get the hardness for the expensive one from the manufacturer? the hardness tester files are made to produce a tiny dimple, not full scratch.
Hi, I have a starrett s579 and I can’t seem to take it apart. Please help thank you
Here I've got some 579 and 229 units, the whol handle including the balled part seems to be one piece, the way to undo them is by removing the screwed cap at the end of the handle, there is a long metal pin attached to it, you remove it and wiggle the plunging ends until they let go if my memory doesn't fail me...
@@pierresgarage2687 thank you. I will do that
Is there a recommended lubricant for these gauges or is it best not to lubricate them at all?
Hi Noel,
With those I just rub them with very lite oil like sewing machine or turbine oil, just to saw that the surface is protected from moisture, really doesn't need much...
Pierre
Pierre, une suggestion: faire un vidéo en comparant la mesure obtenu avec Mitutoyo Holtest Vernier micrométre d'interieur à trois touches ou l'autre marque, avec la mesure du blocs de précision.
Hello José, ces micrometres sont très précis et aussi TRÈS chers, malheureusement je n'en possède pas et je n'ai pas pour l'instant pas d'accès à un de ces appareils, comme leur portée est très réduite il est nécessaire d'en avoir plusieurs pour couvrir une gamme étendue de diamètres... ;(
Dans l'éventuallité où je reussirait à en avoir un, il me ferait plaisir d'élaborer une vidéo sur le sujet.... ;)
Merci pout l'apport et le commentaire, Pierre
Allo José, si tu regardes un peu plus loin dans mes videos tu trouvers des tests effectués avec un micromètre à 3 points de marque SPI, tu auras une idée de la précision accessible avec les différents outils.
Merci pour le commentaire, Pierre
show us how it compares to 1) a bore gaage, and 2) 3-point internal mic
Wish I had a set of 3 points internal mike, you need shipload of them since each unit only measures on very limited range, brand name ones are in excess of 4 to $500..... Each...
Great suggestion about the bore gauge though...
Yep, the 3 point internal mic with setting rings is the way to go for close work. The 3 point is able to detect an out of round condition better than the bore gage or telescoping gage.
The 3 point especially is very expensive and each one has a limited range. I would only buy one for a production job or a job that had the cost of the mic factored into the bid (if I didn't have one with the required range of measurement).
If the work is close and it has to be round, then either a set of Go-No Go gages or a Coordinate Measuring Machine is what is called for.
When working to 0.0001" it's important that the measuring be done in a controlled environment to get valid results. Measure a cold 1-2-3 block and then measure after holding it in you hand for several minutes and see how much it grows.
Very good video presentation. I would note that in special circumstances you can use the telescoping gage without pulling it through the bore. The square sides of the head on the Mititoyo stlye gage allows it to be set in the bottom of a shallow bore and rocking it side to side with your fingers to get the maximum expansion of the pins. Multiple measurements should give a good idea of the size of the bore.
There is another method of measuring an ID closely. It is the rocking pin method. My 1943 ed. of the American Machinist's Handbook describes this method in detail. Essentially, a rod is accurately cut to a length slightly smaller than the ID to be measured. The amount the rod can be rocked back and forth in the ID, measured with a scale, can be translated into the ID of the work. This might still be useful for a large ID for which you have no other way to accurately determine the internal diameter.
i wish they made the handles on telescopic gages like 3x bigger.
You could easily make those handles, just get some proper sized tubing and Loctite it to the exterior of the handle and the tightening screw, all you need is to determine what is comfy and ergonomic.... ;)
yes, but i also feel the sliding barrels are a little flimsy, i wish they would slide like you feel a suction fit between a polished endmill shank fitting into its holder. larger barrels would help with that. my hands are not big by any means.
the ones at accusize tools in canada are "hardened tool steel"
i remember as a millwright apprentice they always told us to use the micrometer by tightening it with the ratchet so to not put to much pressure then needed ? i cheat also LOL , now i see you must be a machinist ? more then just a jack fixerupper LOL
I guess we do as we feel best, sometime this little cheating makes thing easier, and, no less exact... It's a question of feeling the instrument.... ;)
You can send those cheap worn out starretts.
Hi Randy,
Those irreplaceable little worn Starrets are still used in tighter places, in fact they're still in great shape... lol
Cheers, Pierre
I am so disappointed, I read telescopes and thought we were gonna look at the moon or planets.. oh well it was still a great video PB
Opuse... Telescopes aren't present in a machine shop, so, it's missing in the video....
Cheers, Pierre
"Running after tenth of inches in a small or a home sop is very difficult".
Don't you mean TEN THOUSANDS of an inch?
A tenth of an inch is 100 thou, which is over 3/32nds of an inch.
Ah, sometimes I don't express myself clearly, in these measures I really meant 0.0001" resolution, this is like you say a difficult task to get by in a home shop, or, any shop if there is... The only way to get that resolution is with experience and good tools, you need a knowledge of many little details in order to produce reliable and repeatable results.
Just like I mention in the videos, it comes with constant practice.
Thanks for your comment, Pierre