Rinse Before Foaming or Apply Dry? | Testing The Theory | Surprising Results
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- čas přidán 15. 08. 2022
- Today we try out applying foam to dry or wet surfaces to find out which is better and can we remove the initial rinse from our wash process. This video was inspired by @ForensicDetailing and his video on this subject. Enjoy the video and the bloopers at the end.
@ForensicDetailing - • Why RINSING your car w...
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#carwash #foamcannon #foam - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I think it's the saturation of the dirt film with water that causes the problem. Once saturated it can't draw in the surfactant. So when the surfactant goes on dry it is able to get drawn into the dirt film better and do its job. Lots disagree but I've been saying for a fair while the pre wash foams worked better going on dry. Some exceptions to the rule though with lighter dusty summer films. Nice one keav good test I think. Keep smashing it m8
Absolutely agree and on a subject like this many will not be agree with you so we do what we think is best for our process. Really enjoyed your video on this and love the channel. Thanks for the inspiration.
Another probable cause is pre rinsing just dilute the foam so much like it's dirty water. Always dry application, as the foam will stay attached longer
What do you mean by dirt film? summer film?
Thank you
This video made me change my washing method. I was rinsing first with pressure washer before applying the foam.
Now I will start with foam first followed by pressure rinse, foam again, contact wash and drying.
Thanks Keav.
That is the general consensus nowadays not that it hurts anything it’s just an extra step
that is not really needed.
This is a great video. So glad CZcams suggested it. Great that you have proved what I believed was the case. Way to go! Thanks for putting great content out there. I loved the end clip with the "errors"
Appreciate that. We will be expanding on this theory Dow the road as well with different methods.
Thanks for the demonstration! This is an issue I have been wondering about. I usually pre-rinse but gonna try the no pre-rinse and see if I see a difference. Great video!!
Let me know your results when you try it.
This was a really cool test! Thanks for sharing.
Really appreciate you watching. Have watched you guys for years. Team Gtechniq
I didn’t expect that, an interesting result! Great video
I was against it for a long time until I saw a video on it and tried myself.
Love the outttakes Keav. Shows you're human like the rest of us. :) Nice video - thanks - was thinking about this the other day myself.
I must be very human with as many outtakes as I have. LOL
Great video! I always use foam on dry paint, it cleans better. The windows are more durable than paint, so them being slightly dirtier shouldn't be a problem when washing.
Yeah, I don’t worry about the windows at all. I even run 0000 steel wool on them from time to
time.
MG v @@CarsWithKeav 11111
WOW! Great video. Thank you. 👍👍
Appreciate That!
Enjoyed the video, looking forward to keeping up to date with the channel !
Appreciate that!
Good myth buster vlog. Interesting how the paint and windshield show different results.
Yeah, that caught me off guard. Foam usually glides off windows much quicker.
Great video! As a long-time viewer of Jon's stellar Forensic Detailing channel, my curiosity was piqued when you decided to test under your own conditions - because that's what counts for you at the end.
In Switzerland where I live it's NOT common to wash one's car at home and I am approaching this with caution. Especially in public view may be risking annoying the neighbours. The usual way here is to go to the automatic car wash - or the enthusiasts (like me) go to the manual high pressure car wash. That has its own set of issues as the dirt bike/offroader fraction still uses the foam brushes to remove mud so I always use a microfiber noodle "sock" over the foam brush even if it looks clean. First windows then top-down.
My first step for home washing was to get softened water suppplied to my garage, the next will be to wash inside my garage with a foam cannon. Thank you for furthering everyone's state of knowledge about the optimal approach to minimising the loss of value of one's huge vehicle expenditure. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
Amazing the cultural differences when it comes to washing. Here in the USA places like California are like that due to water restrictions and conservation. Currently building out my garage to be a wash bay right now. Did a video series on it. Just need to cut in a drain and finish the floor coating.
@@CarsWithKeav Water conservation is also a topic here in the summer - we were close to a ban on watering our gardens this summer where temperatures reached the low 100’s Fahrenheit for days on end.
I’m finding it difficult to add a second stage water softener or de-ionizer to remove the gypsum (calcium sulphate) from our water for car washing. It would be useful for final rinse just in case I miss drying an area. My garage floor is tiled so I would let water exit to the porous blocks in our drive.
I’m curious to see how your setup looks & performs!
Great content again and like you I dry foam first so that I don't saturate the foaming strength and the only reason I would pre pressure wash is to get some heavy caked dirt or mud off.
Agree with the caked on dirt either way its going to be abrasive as the foam won't penetrate that.
interesting test. thank you for making this video
You’re Welcome
Obrigado, Keav. Gostei muito do teste.
Great video!! If I pre-wash I usually walk around the car with ONR in a pump sprayer to quickly (and cheaply) treat the dirtier parts (side skirts etc) .. then I will power wash. The ONR does a great job of bonding with the dirt and protecting the paint during the initial power wash.
That is a great idea I know many who use ONR as a pre-rinse.
What’s ONR?
@@francisrsylvester2370 optimum no rinse
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. Bottle, Interior and Exterior Car Cleaner, Optimum Rinseless Car Wash System, Pro Car Care Products
Thanks B! 👍
Do you do touch less? I plan on pre-washing with the ONR in a pump sprayer foaming it up with the cannon letting it sit and work and then rinse foaming it up again with the foam cannon letting it sit and work and rinse and then I bought the metro vac the big double 4 hp to blow it dry hopefully be able to do touchless washes on a garage kept not driven daily brand new car with XPel and Gtechnic ceramic coating
Nice test. I think the angle of panel could be a factor to make the difference (rear glass vs rear door). Testing it on the hood or roof would be interested to see
I think the same as well.
Great video thanks for taking time to show and explain to use
You're Welcome
Great test, enjoyed it.. I was curious about this too but I think it may be different with other brands?
Not sure about other brands that are PH Neutral, but from what I have seen more potent soaps do even better dry. PH neutral soaps don't have a lot of cutting power as they are designed to be coating safe.
I saw Forensic detailing channel's video a while a go and tried it, and saw the difference, he is right works better and like you said even for the wheels and tires works great
I wasted so much time and water in the past. He helped me see the light. LOL
Thnx for the demo. I've always used a garden hose to first quicky rinse the dirt off my car. Not a pressure washer. I think that using a P/W first would scratch the paint. And I see alot of detailers doing that on YT these days to impress viewers. My opinion is that applying foam first would "trap" dirt onto the paint. Unless you apply it 2X. In any case, cleaning your car with ONR and using a sprayer is better than someone who doesn't clean his car often. I use ONR in a spray bottle after I go out and always cover or garage my car. After correcting the scratches on my dark car two years ago, I haven't had many problems with scratches. There are many people who get obsessed over minor scratches on their car. And don't really know what products or techniques to use to correct them. I'm a retired DIYer and my 993 still looks good after 25 years.
ONR is a great product for sure. I foam
First just to have a lubricating layer for that loose dirt. Then I foam again for my contact wash. Foaming to me is a bit of therapy so I do it for that reason as well.
Thanks for confirming my theory
Most people won’t believe it, but once you try it then you realize all that wasted time and water.
Thanks Keav! Another great vid. I'll go watch FD's also. That was just a mildly dirty car. What are your thoughts on the process for a very dirty car? Think a 2 hour drive through a snow storm. The car is caked with dirt and salt.
Well FD's test was on a much dirty car. Still not the level I see but I was impressed with the no pre-rinse results. I'll have to do a test this coming winter.
With that kind of dirt I still think foam first before rinse, but hit the panels with a TFR to cut through the salt and road film then after a few minutes foam it and let that dwell. you will have the cutting power of the TFR and the lubricating of the foam plus the foam will help dilute with the TFR to keep it from being too harsh. Sometimes when a car is that dirty adding a step or two in the process is needed. many will add a second foam coating the for added lubrication during the mitt wash or even add a second foam and rinse.
@@CarsWithKeav I had to research what TFR (traffic film remover) was. I hadn't heard of that before. LOL! Any recommendations on products?
I know you mentioned this before on my video. It was good seeing it. I'll be foaming the car dry. 🤘🏻
Let me know how it goes.
Cool experiment
Thanks
8:35 caught yourself slippin 🤣 interesting the difference between the glass and paint for both methods. Getting ride of the rinse process seems like the best method overall
Difference between the glass and paint is mainly the coating on the windows is much stronger than what I have in the paint.
Big fan of Jon of Forensic Detail👍
Me as well! Thanks for watching
I always rinse the car first, get loose dirt and mud off before soap mixes with it. Also can help prevent scratches.
Foaming the loose dirt would help
Prevent even more scratches just from the pressurized water pounding loose dirt into the surface without lubrication. We all have our own ways I just wanted to know was it worth it to pre-rinse and for me it shows it’s not a needed process.
Cool test Keav 👍 To me, there wasn't enough cleaning action, through the camera at least, to justify doing a pre foam. Given the cost of pre foam and the amount of product required, I prefer the effectiveness of a quality TFR used in a shaded area
Most TFR are not coating safe for me to try and use. Most PH neutral soaps don't have much cutting power due to them being coating safe. Especially on a surface with dried on road film from lots of driving in the rain. I barely use 100ml of pre-foam so not much for me, but I understand when running a business keeping cost down is paramount. Letting that TFR sit and then foaming on top of it before rinsing is quite effective as well for cleaning and lubricating.
I switched to no pre-rinse as well for both paint and wheels. No point in diluting your dilution even more 😂. Nice vid man
So true especially how expensive chemicals can be.
Good video. I skipped the rinse long ago when I realized putting water on the car is just diluting the foam.
So many benefits to foaming dry.
Cool. What about when the paint is warm from the sun?
that could be when it is not as effective because you don't have as much time to let the soap dwell. You have to keep the panels wet constantly so the soap doesn't dry. I try not to wash a warm car or in the sun. I do early in the morning or later at night.
I prefoam without a rinse because my train of thought is rinsing with high pressure action I would like the paint to have some sort of lubricant on the paint
Absolutely agree!
I usually use ONR in a pump sprayer 1st foam over ONR let that all dwell, rinse, foam again and contact wash. Cool video be the way.
I’ve used ONR for this many times as well.
Tried wet for years, till I tried applying to a car dry, I then rinse off and snow foam again, works and absolute treat
I was convinced after my first try as well.
Cool test.. it shows the foaming first is a better method... I wonder what a rinseless would have done if you treated a section, let it dwell and rinsed it off...They always claim it encapsulates the dirt...
@carswithkeave !!!!
I know many who spray ONR directly on the surface as the pre-wash when it’s very dirty. I will have to try it out not sure ONR has that penetrating capability, but it would help
Prevent scratching from the water pressure on loose dirt for sure.
I use foam on dry paint with diluted apc. I hit the tires and wheels with drier foam and then adjust it to more watery for the paint but im a mobile detailer
Sounds like a good routine!
Gives us something to consider. I usually prerinse my car with the pressure washer to knock off the loose dirt. If it's not too dirty then go straight to foaming.
Yeah, really depends on what you have on the car. Sometimes a quick layer of ONR before the first rinse to help protect from the loose dirt getting pressured into the surface.
I never gave it thought that prerinsing could actually cause paint damage. I usually rinse, foam, hand wash, rinse, foam and rinse. Going to eliminate the pre-rinse and just go with foam first because a point was made. Surfacants don't work on wet surfaces, they glide off. No matter what is done though, only hand washing will actually remove the dirt. I have never had a car come out clean from a touchless wash which does foam first.
True on the contact wash. If really dirty you could foam and rinse them do your wheels and come back to the second foam. Paint should be kind of dry by then. Depends on your water hardness though don’t want to water spot during your wash.
interesting procedure, if I can ask, what's the theory or idea behind the second foam after the hand wash and rinse ?? thanks
@@JoelSc14 I use a ceramic wash from Armor all, it gives the paint a gloss and repels water. Makes drying much easier too. It's kind of like washing hair, Wash, rinse, repeat! LOL The second foaming helps remove anything left over from the hand wash.
@@acdii got ya... Thanks much
@@JoelSc14 just adding another layer/ cycle to remove more dirt left. & to continue being contact-less wash . But so many methods so cool top try lol
I rinse with ONR 264:1, and allow that to dwell, then rinse, and proceed with the foam wash. I don't foam, rinse, wash. MY thought process is that the ONR pre-wash step removes most of the big debris, and then the foam wash doesn't have the big particles. I also use a 1 mitt per panel process, so I don't have to worry about contaminated mitts. Just sharing. Everyone has their process.
I use the one per panel as well, but use very fluffy microfibers instead.
Wow one mitt per panel? That’s alotta mitts you take perfection to another level
@@francisrsylvester2370 It's a bit overkill, and if I were to do it again, I'd like do EAGLE 500 from The Rag Company towels instead of mitts. But still stick to a towel per panel. A quality 16x16 towel provides all the cleaning power you could ever ask for without the weight of a mitt. I'm just not a big believer of grit guards, and rinsing a mitt in one bucket, thinking that the dirt has all come out of the mitt, then putting it back in my clean bucket with the soap, then place that mitt against my paint. My wife's car also has a gloss back roof, so I'm especially careful with that pint.
Great advice Jeff my car is 95% XPel wrapped and Gtechnic Crystal Serum Ultra ceramic on whole car but I still worry about touching it just me ugh
@@Vanhamj1 if using the Eagle 500 which I do from time to time you can flip and fold to get more panels per rag as well.
I always rinse first then foam then wash with 2 bucket method. Works for me.
Whatever work for you. There is no end all for a wash process. I just feel foaming first provides a little more protection when using pressure rinsing.
Thanks for the informative video. You just convinced me to wash my cars differently. I always used to rinse the entire car very well first, then foam, and then do a contact wash with the foam on it. Now I will foam first and let dwell, then rinse, then re-foam, and then do a contact wash with the foam on it. I think THAT process will yield the best results. I’ll definitely be using more product, but I think that’s the way to go. Thanks again.
That is a great way to do it. Whatever can be done to mitigate the swirls. I use this same process often as well.
I agree completely 👍
Pre treat with a Rinseless first….ONR, Absolute, McKees…. then foam and then do your contact wash…. By this time…the Rinseless has encapsulated so much of the dirt and grime your contact wash will be a breeze
Exactly! No need to do a rinse before.
Regarding efficiency, I'm considering combinting some things I've learned along the way;
Snow foam prewash.
Hose off
Snow foam application.
Contact wash with 5 thick MF towels presoaked in a bucket of wash liquid.
Each towel provides 8 clean surfaces.
Final rinse.
Blow dry.
Should be quick with minimal scratches.
No wasting time dunking in two buckets.
I do the one bucket with multiple Microfibers as well. I sometimes do a no bucket where I rinse out my wash mitt after each panel with the pressure washer gun
My only concern is, does it swirl more by not doing the pre-rinse? If not, this will be my new go-to.
In my experience the amount of dirt left by foaming first is the same if not less so the swirls should be less. With those results you are avoiding swirls by having lubricant on the surface when using high pressure.
So is your process to foam, rinse and then use ONR to finish it out? No contact wash until ONR?
I used ONR to make sure when collecting the dirt on the Microfiber that I would have less of a chance to scratch. I foam then rinse and move on to my contact wash. You could use ONR as the pre-rinse, rinse then foam. you can choose to rinse again or go straight to contact wash with the foam on the car. Many people use ONR as a pre-rinse. It is very lubricative and protects from scratching.
Great video. Noticed by the plate you live not too far from me. I’m in Braselton
I’m sort of in Braselton. My zip code is Pendergrass, but I live right near New Cut Road.
@@CarsWithKeav lol I’m off JJ Lott
@@Chad03Cobra I’m off Hwy 60 close to Hall County border so I take the back way on that road to get toward Oakwood or go to Road Atlanta. I film a lot of my driving content on Guy Cooper near there as well.
@@CarsWithKeav yes I know guy Cooper well. I’ve done some repaving of that street with some Toyos
I’ve always like to blast it on dry, citrus pre wash then a blanket of snow foam over on top and let it to dwell and rinse off
I sometimes run an all purpose pre-rinse let is sit and then foam over like you mentioned.
@@CarsWithKeav by all purpose, your talking about using an all purpose cleaner on the paint then a layer of foam on top?
Another probable cause is pre rinsing just dilute the foam so much like it's dirty water. Always dry application, as the foam will stay attached longer and doesn't run off the panels
Agreed, someone mentioned to rinse them clean wheels and once down the panels would be dry and then you can foam. That might work as well.
I just happen to do this because of lack of time and it’s the 1st time my car looks completely clean after the foam and rinse the hydrophobics look like I already hand washed it. I used a mix of bilt hamber auto foam and honey dew.
Bilt Hamber I here works really good on road film, but it is strong and can weaken temporary coatings. What ration do you use with the CG and BH?
I had half a gallon of honey dew and 1/3 gallon of auto foam and mixed them and I filled the Lance 1/2 way with product and topped off with water. No way to tell the true dilution due to different cannons, pressures and flow rates. I always add a thick soap to bilt hamber to help it cling without using alot of product. Just have to mix and test to find what works for your own setup.
@@dustin3700 Nice, that’s a lot of soap. I use maybe 200ml the whole wash process. I’m just afraid of how harsh BH is with coatings.
@@CarsWithKeav I add a topper as my drying aid every wash and apply dry maybe once every 1 to 2 months. I expect a pro coating to last 2 years and I usually need to do a light polish to eliminate any light scratches and I recoat. This is only on my own vehicles so I like the protection to be at its best at all times.
@@CarsWithKeav The best bang for the buck is 3D nano pails, they have a ph neutral and a high ph prewash they use about .5 oz in a cannon full of water.
after I was recommended McKee's prewash from Pan I've literally never had to "touch" my car body again during a wash. only thing I "touch" are the wheels
prewash, rinse, foam gun, rinse, blow dry, then wipe down the windows
granted I live in CA so no road grime just lots of dust and dirt
What pre-wash is that? I didn’t know they had one. I know they have a coating prep wash, but that is a harsh soap that strips wax. I envy you with the no road grime. In Atlanta it can rain everyday for weeks and that dirty water that get sprayed by tires gets in everything and dries on. Caked on dirt no chemical I know of can get it all without harming the paint. Have to have contact wash even in ceramic coatings. If it’s just dust or pollen I can get with just foam and some pressure rinse.
Where can I get the McKees prewash?
@@CarsWithKeav McKee's 37 N-914
sounds like it's called a rinse less wash agent but I've been using it as a pre wash 🙂
@@francisrsylvester2370 I got it on Amazon
Thanks Dylan! 👍
Well i hate to point out but what do you expect to see if you wipe the car after a pre-wash? It would still be dirty in both cases rinsed or dry so i wouldn't even consider in touching it with a microfiber.
Also there are a few things to consider here: a cold prewash can keep the temperature down so when pre-wash you won't worry about spots if the foam dries; dilution and PIR, good products. Not every products behave the same. Some are better than others depending on the conditions.
Totally agree they were still dirty, but for the videos integrity I had to show the amount of dirt left and it proved to me dry foam leaves me less dirt on the paint which means a safer contact wash. This wouldn't be a normal process to touch with a microfiber it all for the testing. I used ONR with the Microfiber so much safer than doing it raw plus it has not been corrected yet so not being too OCD about it. LOL
Isn't the purpose of pre rinsing with just water is to get lose dirt off the car?
If I understood washing step, pre rinsing is consisted of 3 steps. Pressure washing, apc, and snow foam. Then follow up with the contact wash.
If we are only doing pre rinsing to wash the car due to shortage of time, I think foaming the car without pressure washing would work better. Sprayed water might interfere with chemicals getting the dirt.
However, if we are going to follow up with contact wash, wouldnt full pre wash step be safer to eliminate most of dirt that may lead to swirling paint surface during contact wash?
I don't see anything safe about pressurized water hitting loose dirt at 1k PSI with no lubrication. If I end up with less dirt after that initial dry foam and rinse then its the same amount of steps just in reverse. APC would get diluted by the water on the car already I would think. Majority of the time I am going into the contact wash with less dirt. I would do the APC dry which most instructions request them to be applied dry then foam over top that will draw down the loose dirt from the APC application then the rinse would get the rest. then the contact wash would be safer. Of course that's just my opinion there is no end all for the wash steps. You're thinking and process is solid in my eyes as well.
Is it common to foam and not manually agitate with a pad, MF, or lambwool, then rinse?
Most common is to foam then rinse and follow up with bucket wash. Some will foam again and then use bucket wash. Bucket Wash being the agitation process with a MG mitt mostly.
@@CarsWithKeav Yes, that is what I am familiar with, however in the west (CA) we are under restricted water use so we are supposed to cut down on water use.
@@iamsam8446 if you are in CA I don’t think you get the kind of road traffic film we get here on the east coast. You mainly get dust I would think. This method might help czcams.com/video/2Ee_778SqKo/video.html You could add a quick rinse for loose dirt in the beginning. You can also look up Gary Dean method. ONR or Mckee’s are great products for it. Very low dilution and highly lubricitive.
Rinse, set everything up, do the wheels then apply your pre-wash. That way your applying your pre-wash to a dry car with less dirt on it which achieves the best results possible from what I've seen.
Glad Jon & yourself has brought some attention to this theory though & only confirms my own wash process is the most effective for me.
That’s a good idea! For protection I would add an ONR pre-soak with that initial rinse to protect from the pressurized water on loose dirt.
It all comes down to how dirty the car is before washing. If it's just road grime from driving in the rain, I'm just going to throw the foam straight on. If there's any dirt, debris, sand, etc stuck to the surface then I'll spray it off first and let it mostly dry. I always wipe the foam with a microfiber to agitate everything and make sure all of the filth is coming off, so the less debris on the surface when foam goes on the better. After rinsing the foam off and leaf-blower drying it, then I go in with the rest of the chemicals to make it spotless.
Sounds like a solid Wash process. Letting it dry is a good idea. Many of suggested foaming for the loose dirt then doing the wheel to let the car dry enough for the next foam.
The excitement for a dirty car. I get it
Some of us are just crazy. 🤣
When foam is applied directly to dirt, the soap has more ability to emulsify the dirt. When water is first applied to dirt, the water saturates the dirt without as much cleaning power and for less time.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Sauron actually is good or are you tempting me with a ring of power. LOL
@@CarsWithKeav I have seen the error of my ways and I now want to clean up Middle Earth, one car at a time.
I one time accidentally foam my car without pre rinsing first. I thought "omg wth I forgot to pre pinse first" but turned out the car was still clean afterwards. My order fro that day was foam, 2-bucket, then dry with a MF towel.
Yesh, not that it will always be better, but if its the same not worth it to pre-rinse unless you caked on mud.
I wonder how the results would vary based on if the car was ceramic coated or not, or even what products were used to protect the paint, and also the level of dirt that’s on the paint. I’ve often wondered if foam - rinse - foam - wash - rinse - dry would be the best and safest method to use, but obviously that’s going to use quite a bit more product. I think you bring up an interesting point about the pressure possibly harming the paint. I’ve never really considered that, and just assumed starting with the most pressure was best as it would “blast off” the dirt, which is partially why Ive never tried foaming the paint dry like that. This may challenge me to alter my process. Lastly, it’s great to see someone “honor the source” here and give this is shot instead of just copying someone else and claiming the idea as their own.
It's so hard to know across so many different scenarios, but for the weekend warrior I think two foams is pretty good. If you were a mobile detailer then the cost really starts to be an issue and trying the most efficient process while at the same time protecting the paint. I don't envy those guys its a tough job to do well. Anybody can foam and bucket wash and get a car clean, but its the paint protection and finish that brings the customers back. A lot of people use ONR as a pre-rinse application for that pressure rinse then they foam.
@@CarsWithKeav I’ll be sure to try some ONR before rinsing next time!
I used to wash semi trucks. Dirt sticks to the paint magnetically. Not to the glass. Rubbing is required to break the bond.
Absolutely, always need a contact wash. Just making sure the amount of dirt is as little as possible before getting to the contact wash.
Kev I saw a vid by a British fellow do this test & dry was better on paint anyway.
That's was the one that inspired me to try this test. he is in the comment section here.
Wow that’s good foaming
MJJC and the right soap will foam like crazy.
@@CarsWithKeavwhat soap do u suggest
@@jasonjones886 Incredible suds by DIY Detail. Cleans good as it is slightly alkaline, but still safe fro coatings and it foams like crazy with just one ounce in a whole foam cannon.
@@CarsWithKeav awesome thank u
@@jasonjones886 No problem. Code CARSWITHKEAV saves you 10% on their website should help pay for some of the shipping.
I don't understand why everyone who is trying to find out the difference between wet and dry is wetting by high pressure? It's cleans up a part of dirt.
If you want to find out how the foam itself works. Wet it by regular water hose. And clean it the same after the foaming.
Sorry for my bad English.
Was not really looking out how effective the foam is just does rinsing first matter if you can spray foam dry and get the same amount of dirt after. you save a whole rinse process and the dirt was less likely to scratch since it is covered in foam.
The only time I’d rinse first ( I always foam dry ) is if you happen to be washing the vehicle in the sun, I’ll rinse it down to cool the paint off so the foam doesn’t dry up super quick with the panels being hot from the sun. Aside from that I have a good method starting with foaming dry. 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Saaaame, I’d rather waste 8 gallons letting it steam off the panels rather than let the soaps steam on contact. I hate summer can’t wait for fall lol
Every scenario is different and hot panels I would soak with running garden hose water and would only foam a few panels at a time and constantly rinsing. I hate washing in the sun.
Agreed!
🤜🏻🤛🏻
🤜🏻🤛🏻
So you like to foam the car, let it dwell for maybe 5 minutes, wash it off, than come with your car washing mitt and wash the car with soap in the bucket? Then rinse off car obviously when done and dry off.
I been doing this step to wash my car faster
Rinse,
Foam Cannon
mitt on surface(5mitts so I don’t need to keep going back to the bucket to clean it)
Rinse
Dry
I’m doing Foam, Rinse, Mitt, Rinse, Dry currently.
@@CarsWithKeav how long does that take to wash your car? I’m averaging 18 minutes and that includes drying with a towel
Trial and error for many I guess.
Everything in detailing is trial and error. LOL
Pretty cut and dry. Pre rinse or not, car is still dirty. So regardless, still need to wash the car. Im not a two bucket guy, but, pre rinse takes two minutes, pre foam, wash the car, rinse the car, dry the car. There is 1440 minutes in a day, Im not missing out on life if I use two of them to pre rinse.
Very true its still dirty and we all have our own way, but if I carry less dirt into the contact wash it will be safer on the paint.
@@CarsWithKeav I agree. That’s why I carry little to no dirt into the contact wash…….because my paint is protected. With a good ceramic coat (which my cars and truck have), the pre rinse does 98% of the cleaning.
The car behind this dude is not remotely dirty. On top of that, most BMWs I see on the road have so bad orange peel flaws that I think they probably look better dirty.
Dirtiest any of my cars will ever be so its dirty to me. Level of dirt is subjective to the conditions you live in and how well you keep the finish maintained doesn't make testing the theory any different.
@@CarsWithKeav yep, it's a valid test for an interesting theory.
Bottom line, why wouldn’t you just rinse before foam? Most cars are very expense so why wouldn’t you spend extra 2 mins to rinse first..
I have washed enough to know it provides me no benefit. Foam first on the car lubricates while doing high pressure rinse versus high pressure straight on dirt which can cause marring. Diluting the soap even more is my other reason. In the end it’s just my opinion with my testing to help prove my point. Everybody does things their own way and that’s the beauty of washing. You want to do the extra step then great and more power to you. Thanks for the feedback.
@@CarsWithKeav Thank you
I think this qualifies as a first-world problem. JMHO
I don’t think there is anybody on earth who would argue this opinion. First world problem for sure nobody is denying that.
Even better, Wash your car whilst it’s raining.
Funny thing I did a video of how good it is to wash in the rain then found out my camera wasn't recording. Was soaking wet and had no video. LOL
(Rips hair out)
The infinite amount of cringe at the liqui moly license plate trim. For Germans, this is advertising that you're a fan of cheap ebay and supermarket oil marked up to ridiculous prices.
Only cringe here is your comment.
@@CarsWithKeav oh boy. Another one who wrapped their identity up in a chemical brand not realizing it's cheap supermarket and discount ebay oil in the very country it comes from. LM is literally relabeled Meguin ebay discount oil that they relabel and mark up and then pay incredible amounts of money to people to advertise it and stupid americans, typically magas, think there's the power of the third reich in the oil when they're pouring in ebay oil. Good work on being one of those.