How To Replace a Rear Wheel Axle Oil Seal on a Tube Type Axle on an MGB. Go to our website, Dr-Doolin.com for more car parts and products. dr-doolin.com/
My mechanic has just told me of a rear axle seal leak in my '68 MGB. This video is awesome. I now know exactly what's involved - so informative. Thank you!
Thanks Dr, Well looks like I've got to go back in and flip that front shoe around in the morning. Glad you tipped me off to that leading edge bit! By4now, Thanks again, Dave in the Adirondacks
Happy to see this in detail, thanks. I just got me a 78 MGB and want to learn all i can about the mechanical fixes. I need some wire wheels now with the hubs.
Omg where was this video when i NEEDED it!!! Lmao... didn't realize that the calipers were riding the disc's n yeah glad there's videos to help notice the CAUSE not just symptoms... good stuff!!!
Most of the time is when you are speaking outside. I guess the open air just carries it away. Inside the garage is ok. I always wanted an XKE. They are just so cool. When you were driving that V-12. When you hit bumps in the road, it sounded like it had no suspension. A friend of mine finally got his brand new 69 XKE 4 speed 4.2 with 3 carbs. That car was awesome. His had the chrome knock off wires too, really nice.
Good tutorial - one thing though, don't fit the seal by hitting it side to side as it can distort the metal part of the seal. Instead, use a piece of pipe the same diameter as the seal and long enough to clear the axle sticking out. Weld a plate on the outer end of the pipe. Hold the pipe firmly against the seal and hit the centre of the pipe to drive the seal in parallel. Cheers!
Thanks so much for this excellent video. All of your videos, actually. Top notch. On a lighter note, I'm amazed that you can work in your good shirt and not ruin it. I've been wrenching on these cars for 50 years and mine are usually ruined in the first 20 minutes. 😂 Wish I knew if you had paypal. I'd send you 10 bucks for a pint (or 2!) as a thank you! PS love your accent. are you in the Dales?
Hi, I've just caught your channel. May I ask you a question with regard to the rear axle breather? How would you check if the breather is clear remove it from the axle? Thanks for your tutorial. I've liked and subscribed.👍Many thanks.👍
The split collar with a taper that you put in at 12:47 minutes on the video. It was hard for me to see what way you put this in. Which way does this go in? You did it so fast that I could not see. Does the narrow diameter part of the taper go toward the differential or away from the differential?
Yes, you feel it though the handle. When the wrench is up 150 lbs the click is not as audible as at 60 lbs or so. You can feel a kind of break go though the handle. This wrench is at the limit at that setting. The one I have that goes up to over 250 lbs is louder at the 150 lbs setting. James
Hi, Your axle will be different to the one shown here. This is a Tube type axle, the type on your Sprite is a Banjo type. I am planning to make a video covering that type, but that unfortunately is no help to you at the moment. James
Hi Rex, this is only for the early type axle 1962 to 67 "Banjo Type" The later 68 to 80 is different I'm afraid. We do plan on doing a Video covering the later axle.
Hi Maj, The only difference is the flange the wheel attaches to, a non wire will just have the four wheel studs with the castle nut in plain sight, rather than the nut being inside the tube section for the wire wheel. Actually its easier than the wire wheel. James
Hi Ben I assume you are hitting the face of the hub, I hope your using a soft drift or a piece of wood so as not to damage the face of the Hub. You should be using a drift (not a metal punch) on the inner race of the bearing that's where the resistance is. Get the assembly past the point of the threads and then use the axle nut to push it on all the way. Make sure you move the drift around the inner race when knocking it on so as to keep the race even and straight on the axle tube. Make sure there are no marks on the axle to stop the bearing race going on. Then take the time to make sure the breather is clear on the axle and don't forget to check the axle oil. Hope this helps, James
Yes I used a block of wood, but is OK to use some kind of sealant on both sides of the paper gasket. As you know the oil seal is on the inward side of the bearing & if gear oil get by it that paper gasket will probably eventually leak,no? And what are the dimensions on that nut? T.p.i.?
The O-ring should be fitted as well. without that it will leak. You don't need to use sealant, the oil is not under pressure its only a splash feed to the bearing, Don't overfill the diff. If everything is ok and clean with the faces on the Axle and Shaft it will be fine.
Great videos but your microphones need work, a lot. I have to turn the volume all the way and use headphones. They are a bit muffled too, like something is covering them up.
Hi Craig, if you don't mind could you tell me which Video or videos have the problem please, we do try them before we load them in CZcams but that does not guarantee they work correctly.
It's pretty straightforward, just off with the wheel and Brake drum. then undo the Screw in the Axle flange to hub. Slide out the Axle undo the Nut in the Centre (there is a lock tab in there). Pull off the hub and the oil seal is in the rear of the hub. Make sure the seal is in the correct way around. The oil is coming from the Hub so the seal is facing inwards towards the Bearings. Its better to change the Gasket and Oil O-ring between the Flange and the Hub when reassembling. Make sure the Bearing are in good shape (check for movement using the road wheel and for noise) Also make sure the vent on the axle is clear as if this is blocked it will create pressure and push oil out the seal. Good idea to check the Diff oil level. By the way the nut on the shaft holding the Hub is a Left-hand thread, on the left side of the car. Regular Right-hand on the other side. We are getting back to producing more videos I was planing to do one for this repair in the future. James
Fantastic video! I didn't realize my brake shoes had been installed incorrectly by the prior owner until I watched this video!! Thank you very much.
My mechanic has just told me of a rear axle seal leak in my '68 MGB. This video is awesome. I now know exactly what's involved - so informative. Thank you!
Thanks, Dave
It's always good when your shoes are the right way round.
Cheers, James
Excellent instructional video, you worked on my car in 1987 and I wish you could come in to the GTA to work on my car again.
Excellent instruction,not many of us, old school left, great video 👍👍👍👍
Fantastic tutorial , we need gentleman like you.,thank s again!!
Excellent . Thanks, left rear just now leaking on my 63 B. Very helpful. From Oregon USA
Thanks Dr,
Well looks like I've got to go back in and flip that front shoe around in the morning. Glad you tipped me off to that leading edge bit!
By4now,
Thanks again,
Dave in the Adirondacks
Happy to see this in detail, thanks. I just got me a 78 MGB and want to learn all i can about the mechanical fixes. I need some wire wheels now with the hubs.
Omg where was this video when i NEEDED it!!! Lmao... didn't realize that the calipers were riding the disc's n yeah glad there's videos to help notice the CAUSE not just symptoms... good stuff!!!
That was a very nice clear and informative video of the MGB rear axle seal replacement.
Thanks for this. Just did mine using your method of springs on first and it works a treat.
Yes, I knew about leading and trailing edge on drum brakes when I was working on British motorbikes in the 60s.
Most of the time is when you are speaking outside. I guess the open air just carries it away. Inside the garage is ok. I always wanted an XKE. They are just so cool. When you were driving that V-12. When you hit bumps in the road, it sounded like it had no suspension. A friend of mine finally got his brand new 69 XKE 4 speed 4.2 with 3 carbs. That car was awesome. His had the chrome knock off wires too, really nice.
Good tutorial - one thing though, don't fit the seal by hitting it side to side as it can distort the metal part of the seal. Instead, use a piece of pipe the same diameter as the seal and long enough to clear the axle sticking out. Weld a plate on the outer end of the pipe. Hold the pipe firmly against the seal and hit the centre of the pipe to drive the seal in parallel. Cheers!
Top shelf videos - ALL OF THEM! My wife is not a fan if working with me either! Enough said on that! ;)
excellent informative video, thank you sir a million for your time and effort
Anyone know about a video as helpful and detailed as this but for the banjo type axle with wire wheel hub?
Ditto!! Excellent video.
Fantastic explanation
Perfect , very clear!
Excellent tutorial, thank you..
great video. most helpful.
Thanks so much for this excellent video. All of your videos, actually. Top notch. On a lighter note, I'm amazed that you can work in your good shirt and not ruin it. I've been wrenching on these cars for 50 years and mine are usually ruined in the first 20 minutes. 😂 Wish I knew if you had paypal. I'd send you 10 bucks for a pint (or 2!) as a thank you! PS love your accent. are you in the Dales?
Hi, I've just caught your channel. May I ask you a question with regard to the rear axle breather? How would you check if the breather is clear remove it from the axle? Thanks for your tutorial. I've liked and subscribed.👍Many thanks.👍
Cheers for sharing. brilliant video.
Thank you very much for the video!!
Great video Doctor
The split collar with a taper that you put in at 12:47 minutes on the video. It was hard for me to see what way you put this in. Which way does this go in? You did it so fast that I could not see. Does the narrow diameter part of the taper go toward the differential or away from the differential?
Good job. Great vídeo
thank you for a great video
On a non-wire wheel it's all the same except for the style of hub?
Hello please show me how to change leaking front oil seal midget mk 1 wheel wire
Nice. Well done.
Very nice...Thank You
Excellent video. Very helpful.Thank you.
Did you get a click on the torque wrench when you tightened the axle nut?
Yes, you feel it though the handle. When the wrench is up 150 lbs the click is not as audible as at 60 lbs or so. You can feel a kind of break go though the handle. This wrench is at the limit at that setting. The one I have that goes up to over 250 lbs is louder at the 150 lbs setting.
James
Is this the same as a 1962 AH Sprite ? It looks different?
Hi, Your axle will be different to the one shown here. This is a Tube type axle, the type on your Sprite is a Banjo type.
I am planning to make a video covering that type, but that unfortunately is no help to you at the moment.
James
As one person asked before. The same for bolt on hub?
Hi Rex, this is only for the early type axle 1962 to 67 "Banjo Type" The later 68 to 80 is different I'm afraid. We do plan on doing a Video covering the later axle.
I assume there is no difference if I don't have the wire wheel set up?
Hi Maj,
The only difference is the flange the wheel attaches to, a non wire will just have the four wheel studs with the castle nut in plain sight, rather than the nut being inside the tube section for the wire wheel. Actually its easier than the wire wheel.
James
Please please put a smear of grease on the lip of the seal and the surface it runs on. Your lipped seal will last 10x longer.
Any tips for reinstalling the hub on a banjo axle? The bearing wants to push out while I'm pressing/hammering it back on
Hi Ben
I assume you are hitting the face of the hub, I hope your using a soft drift or a piece of wood so as not to damage the face of the Hub. You should be using a drift (not a metal punch) on the inner race of the bearing that's where the resistance is. Get the assembly past the point of the threads and then use the axle nut to push it on all the way. Make sure you move the drift around the inner race when knocking it on so as to keep the race even and straight on the axle tube. Make sure there are no marks on the axle to stop the bearing race going on. Then take the time to make sure the breather is clear on the axle and don't forget to check the axle oil.
Hope this helps,
James
Yes I used a block of wood, but is OK to use some kind of sealant on both sides of the paper gasket. As you know the oil seal is on the inward side of the bearing & if gear oil get by it that paper gasket will probably eventually leak,no? And what are the dimensions on that nut? T.p.i.?
The O-ring should be fitted as well. without that it will leak. You don't need to use sealant, the oil is not under pressure its only a splash feed to the bearing, Don't overfill the diff. If everything is ok and clean with the faces on the Axle and Shaft it will be fine.
Cleaning before taking oil seal out maybe?
Hi David, yes cleaning would be a good idea, this assembly wasn't really that grubby as some I've seen though.
The green TR needs a complete remanufacture.
Nicely done!
Great videos but your microphones need work, a lot. I have to turn the volume all the way and use headphones. They are a bit muffled too, like something is covering them up.
Hi Craig, if you don't mind could you tell me which Video or videos have the problem please, we do try them before we load them in CZcams but that does not guarantee they work correctly.
are oil seals easy on the Banjo axle?
It's pretty straightforward, just off with the wheel and Brake drum. then undo the Screw in the Axle flange to hub. Slide out the Axle undo the Nut in the Centre (there is a lock tab in there). Pull off the hub and the oil seal is in the rear of the hub.
Make sure the seal is in the correct way around. The oil is coming from the Hub so the seal is facing inwards towards the Bearings.
Its better to change the Gasket and Oil O-ring between the Flange and the Hub when reassembling.
Make sure the Bearing are in good shape (check for movement using the road wheel and for noise)
Also make sure the vent on the axle is clear as if this is blocked it will create pressure and push oil out the seal.
Good idea to check the Diff oil level.
By the way the nut on the shaft holding the Hub is a Left-hand thread, on the left side of the car. Regular Right-hand on the other side.
We are getting back to producing more videos I was planing to do one for this repair in the future.
James
On1977 ford f250
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