Dr-Doolin MGB Replacing the Front Shock Absorber
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Another Dr Doolin helpful British auto fix on your MGB. How to replace your Front Shock Absorbers.
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That MGB looks just like my first car. I worked on it a lot but still loved it. I put STP oil treatment in my shocks to increase the dampening due to the STP oil treatment being a higher viscosity. It handled great.
Thanks Dr., I watched this video several times before renewing the one on my 1963 roadster.
Thanks, I'm glad it helped.
What a joy to see! Guess the Doc has been around the block a few times. Knows the ropes!
Did that job on my old '71 MGB. Changed all the bushings, rotors, pads, and repacked the bearings. I was lucky and the shocks were still serviceable. The bushings went in all the way and I didn't have to expand the shock like the Dr. does here. Great tip on expanding the fork. Nice video!
Brilliant! Also getting ready to put brand new shocks on my '71. Just want I needed.
Love how he's pissed at zero maintenance, but goes through with it.
Thanks for sharing, you make it all look easy.
I'll check out your drum brake video because I'm ready to my 1967 MK1 Australian assembled MGB.
"Suppose brakes dont matter"... brilliant sarcasm
Maybe the owner intends to change the brake discs and pads himself. That's an easier diy job and many owners enjoy doing some jobs themselves. I know I do. I don't have a classic car but I do my own disc and pad changes on my modern car. Last time I did front discs and pads cost me £120 in parts against £600 in Halfrauds 😎
Outstanding video.
Very efficient and practical work.
Hey there. Nice job. I fear my front shocks are shot, so this job is in my future. Why do we always hear of the four shock bolts not being tight? Is this a common occurrence with MGBs?
Thanks for the helpful video!
To be honest I don't ever recall finding bolts loose on the front shocks. The bolts are fitted with Spring washers originally and should be replaced the same way. There would be a clunking or knocking sound from the front if they were loose, but that would not be the cause of lack of dampening. Or even give the symptom of worn shocks, assuming the shocks were Ok but loose.
James
@@Dr-Doolincom Dear James, Thank you for this great information. I will make sure I use the correct hardware when replacing them.
Dr. This was great. Thank you. ...No way can I get the biggie bolt back in! It. Will. Not. Go. Any ideas? Hammer isn't working.
Nice!
So did you rebuild the shock or buy a new unit?
I replace with new units, as I have had problems with rebuilds more often than not. Plus to pay the shipping for the exchange across borders is not really cost effective. Same with getting replacements for defective rebuilds. The part that I believe to be a problem is the shafts, they need building up and machining to size. Not practical with a rebuild.
If I fit a Shock I sold to a customer that then leaks, I'm required to replace the unit for free. It would be cheaper for me to pay the customer not to do the job in the first place. So I install new ones, as I have had no problems with leaking and they last.
I have seen some rebuilt units that worked fine so I guess it depends on your point of view if you use them or not.
Hope that helps
James
No sign of a torque wrench?
A good point, but on this kind of assembly all the bolts or nuts are mechanical locked by Split pins (Cotter pins), Spring washers or Locknuts. These are not suitable for torque settings as the tension (Spring washer) or the resistance (Locknuts) is not fixed it a bit difficult to set a torque rating. All the moving connections, Lower control arm pivots and King pin pivots are shouldered ( even the Rubber bushings have sleeves) that can be felt when tightening, assuming the guy doing the assembly is paying attention. In those cases the holes in the shafts need to be aligned with the Castle nut, again not really practical by a Torque setting.
Torque settings are used where the bolt is locked by bolt stretch, current engine head bolts or studs are calibrated this way. Hence the need to replace every time they are removed. Or if a measured tension is required to prevent distortion or movement when the parts become heated as in Crankshaft main caps, or older engines Cylinder Head nuts.
When these cars were built the expectation was a Mechanic understood and was practiced in how much tightening a bolt requires. Which is just practice and common sense really.
hi don't need a torque wrench then
Sorry for the late reply, I use a torque wrench on critical fasteners. (Head nut or bolts, Driveshafts etc.) Not on every nut and bolt I go by feel and I guess experience. I do make sure to use locking devises on fasteners (spring washers and the like), which makes the use of a torque wrench pointless.
Bolts being torqued don't use locking devices except maybe the odd tab washer. The stretch or tension on the bolt is expected to prevent it coming undone. Or in some cases being over tightened, Wheel nuts for instance.
Also in the case of engine bolts/nuts to compensate for expansion when parts get hot. Also to ensure an even tension on all the bolts eg:. Cylinder head.
The use of torque settings on bolts is very prevalent in late model cars, by that I mean the last 20yrs or so. The 1970 not so much lot more lock washers etc. being used.
Nuts, bolts and fasteners can be quite a large and interesting subject.
Thanks
James
Not sure why you’d want the car if you have little intention of maintaining it...
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