I built a brand-new engine with never seen before intake and exhaust system
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- čas přidán 26. 01. 2022
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Hello Guys,
It's time to build something really complicated.
This is kind of experimental video. I have a very old unrealized idea about an internal combustion engine, if be more correctly intake and exhaust system. Usually valves perform this function, in our case it is a camshaft with channels for passing gases.
Ideas can be very logical and interesting on paper, but in practice it is very difficult to prove.
So let's build a brand-new engine with never seen before intake and exhaust system and prove this idea. Whether it will work or not is a very big question. Let's find out.
If this engine works as planned, then it can be built into any car or even build some kind of all-terrain vehicle.
Friends,
As you have already noticed, I read almost all of your messages and am happy to share my ideas with you, and as far as possible, I listen to your opinion.
Share your opinion on this and leave comments.
With best regards
Meanwhile in the Garage
#diyproject
#diyEngine
#buildingEngine
#wot #ad #sponsored - Jak na to + styl
Many wonder what happened to this engine.
Did he finally work?
Yes, friends, it worked.
I invite everyone to the premiere of the video, where I finally launch it.
02/19/2022 12:00 GMT+1
czcams.com/video/1EP49XuejVM/video.html
Can I get a blueprint for this engine?
Amazing work dude, well done.
I was thinking some kind of piston style ring ,like on the rotary have an apex seal .or some kind of labyrinth seal
Congratulations.
I still believe that you are an absolutely genius! You've gotta be an engineer or some kind of highly intelligent machinist or something! 👏
Anyone on gods green earth that gets this far in building a new engine design has my subscription. Don't stop.
Hell yes. Unlike a lot of people that only post the stuff that makes them (supposedly) look better, this man left it all on the floor and posted the good, the bad and the ugly. I admire a man that is that confident. Awesome
Honestly, I enjoyed every minute of this video, the end result doesn't even matter, your craftsmanship and ambition are admirable!
I second that, was a awesome video.
me too !!
The same is my opinion.
AGREED!!!!!
Something very similar was done on a 5 litre Ford V-8 in early 2000's. It could rev to 10,000 rpm as it didn't have poppet valves .It didn't have any oil feed to top end either using carbon ceramic bearings which also acted as seals. A few years earlier I came up with something very similar as well but couldn't figure out how to make it work on more than a single cylinder (designed around a Honda 90 engine)
As a Mechanical Designer (>38yrs),.. this was GREAT!... bcuz, this was honest and what happens when you experiment! Keep at it, cheers!
Just shut up
what type of valve was that?
Such a pleasure to watch. A completely new way to look at building an engine.
Mate , you should cut piston ring grooves in the rotary valve ends and install wear sleeves in the head or completely sleeve the head and run piston rings to seal the head to valve .
It may need two or three each side.
But like people here have already said , recheck the ignition timing to make sure its correct.
Use a timing light and a protractor to check the ignition timing , its very simple and it will remove any doubt. And its here I think the main problem lies.
A simple engine like this will run on quite low compression as long as everything else is in parameters.
Do a compression check and see , again it will give you a good idea.
I've had simple engines like this run happily all day on 60 or so PSI.
I remember as an apprentice 50 or so years ago an old Holden six cylinder ran like a top with only 70 PSI on all cylinders but I think the secret there was all six cylinders were all the same.
Please don't give up on this engine, you have come too far to give up.
The engine will probably never run anything useful but would be a good model to show and display. and be proud of.
I love your work and I was transfixed to the monitor the whole time .
Brilliant , just brilliant
It's amazing.
But... your cylinder head need an upgrade about the position of the spark plug. The geometry of the head is more important than anything else. Sorry for my bad English.
Good luck : )
Exactly he needs sleeves, on both sides for head to valve , and probably two between side to side like apex seals from a rotary madza or something like that
Yes please try adding rings to each end of your rotary valve. Also one on a slant between the intake and the exhaust. Like a rotary engine seal.
Great idea, one in middle and ones on either side, probably even multiples for good seal
Funny you should mention the Holden six as Dunston made a rotary valve head for the grey motor in the 1950s
Золотниковая подача смеси давно применяется в ДВС-микродвигателях с этим не должно быть проблем. Выхлоп золотниковый - в теории тоже должен работать, возможно не отстроены фазы, либо выпуск и впуск пересекаются. Впуск желательно по площади раза в два больше выпуска. Но на счет долговечности такая схема явно будет уступать классической клапанной: золотник вращается в камере сгорания, изнашивая посадочное место из-за нагара, нагрева и отсутствия смазки. За культуру технической реализации лайк, однозначно
...может у вала, который он добавил для впуска и выпуска, больше необходимого расточены отверстия...может они нужны меньше, чем он фрезернул?!...
Совершенно с Вами согласен. Непосредственный золотник в ГРМ, это тупик.
@@user-zc7kf5xh3q хотите сказать 2 клапана на цилиндр лучше чем 4?
Дядя учится в ютюбе а нужно в институте по профилю
@@TurtaYura Ага! Станком с ЧПУ в ютюбе научился управлять? Тебе, с дивана -- видней!
Thnx 4 the video from your build, love the honest representation with the successes and failures!! Cool, really enjoyed watching the build
What a man! Dedication to one's idea is truly admirable and can't wait to see the end result - a working engine, which I am sure you will produce👍
I will give you an "E" for effort. The way it was shooting flames out the exhaust I will say it's in the timing, most likely between the valves and your design of intake. KEEP TRYING ! don't ever give up. Lots of luck to you my friend.
I also was thinking that timing is an issue. The timing, duration, and overlap could also be contributing to the low compression.
it turns the wrong direction
@@sam_s_ SxS%¢¢
It's either valve or ignituion timing. At least it looks and sounds that way. Even with very little compression it should still be able to run with no load. I think it should run with some more adjustment.
If you need a drill that big to turn it, it's probably not compression.
It was absolutely amazing watching the whole process of the motor being built. Great work!
Yeah, even a small amount of compression it should turn over. I also agree the timing could be to far out.
Completely agree, also some oil porting of some sort or coating to reduce friction on the valve shaft will be something nice to look into. I noticed that the resistance to rotate the engine increased as it warmed up, may have something to do with tolerances and differences in expansion coefficient in materials. I hope he doesn't give up his work
I agree.
@@MrDanto2041 well absolutely, did you see how tight the Piston fit in the cylinder???? It should never be that tight! He needs a few more thousands removed from the bore. Absolutely way too tight! He didn't give any room for piston to wall clearance.
This is true. Either a tricky 2-part valve that's adjustable for timing or 2 rotary valves in that head. On initial start, engines "like" different timing and you'll need to adjust.
Sir, I really enjoyed watching this video.
The amount of work and effort put into making this engine was truly inspiring. I was captivated during every minute.
Even if the end result was an engine that didn’t run, the skills that went into machining parts and fitting them together was truly inspiring.
I am a journeyman diesel mechanic by trade, so now I too am wondering why this engine didn’t run, and what could be done to fix it. (It’s literally in my nature)
So I have a suggestion for you sir.
The spacing between “valves” or intake and exhaust ports may be too close or even too big. It just might be that the engine is dumping it’s compression through the exhaust port too soon. One thing I’ve learned during my career working on engines is timing is everything.
Your little engine wanted to run, but most likely couldn’t because it was forced to dump its compression before complete combustion could take place.
Again, only a suggestion. Maybe a 2nd look at your invention is warranted ?
I look forward to seeing it run !!!
And am definitely going to subscribe in hopes you do revisit this idea in the future.
Stay safe my friend. God Bless and good luck !
I so wanted to see it work.
Time, effort, cost and skill, you put everything into it.
I laughed with you, and almost cried for you.
Loved it
Ну а что, неудачный опыт - тоже опыт! с этим сталкиваются многие изобретатели, и в итоге доводили дело до идеала.
И вы доведёте! Удачи вам!
С каким удовольствием я смотрел это видео! Не бросайте проект! Очень здорово, что Вы не растянули проект на миллион маленьких видео и выпустили все одним роликом!
И наконец понял, что этот пылесос не работает!!!
Пылесос. лол Это чертовски смешно. Но при этом очень дорогой, а смотреть гораздо интереснее. Если это плохо переведено, вы можете обвинить Google в этом. Спасибо, Альфредо из Техаса. ✌️
I hope he does not abandon this project, it still might work, with some shims or better bearings with the Cylindrical Intake shaft manifold. I think, that's his major problem, he needs better bearings to seal the upper cylinder head.
Я тоже залип на этом видео и смотрел его без перекуров.
Вот основные причины по которым ваш двигатель не завелся:
1. вы сделали 4-х тактный двигатель у которого все такты происходят за 1 оборот коленвала, в четырехтактниках все такты проходят за два оборота коленвала. За один оборот коленвала все такты проходят только в двутактных двигателях и в роторно - поршневых, а в вашев двигателе я не увидел продувочных каналов.
2. вы крутили против часовой стрелкисвой двигатель, попробуйте покрутить свой двигатель в другую сторону, т.е. по часовой стрелке.
3. в системе зажигания на вашем моторе нет возможности регулировки угла опережения зажигания, искра должна быть не в верхней мертвой точке, а чуть раньше в.м.т.
4. передача от коленвала на вал фаз газораспределения должна быть 1:1, а у вас одна звездочка чуть больше другой, сделайте звездочки одинаковыми. Кроме этого, попробуйте немного сместить в.м.т. относительно вала фаз газораспределения в ту или другую сторону.
Удачи вам в ваших экспериментах!
@@user-zo8bl1sc4c если бы был 2тактный возможно бы завёлся
@@user-zo8bl1sc4c тоже заметил что крутит в обратную сторону и звёздочки разные . А герой водопад похож на кавказца .
It sure looks great though! Good build. Thanks for posting!
As a mechanic I really appreciate people who are like yourself because without people who try to do something new we wouldn't have any modern engines you kind of reminded me about the story of the man who broke the land speed record back on an old Harley or Indian but without people who try we wouldn't have powered flight and to be honest you have some nice engineering machines but its the humans that get everything right i mean seriously your engine would start no problem if you wanted to make it O.H.C or 2stroke but the idea itself was really quite clever,the idea of the Rotary probably had issues at the start..
The man who created the rotary engine also created most of the curse words we use today, true story lol..j/k, but yea much respect for people who take on challenges like this, definitely a rare breed
This engine will work. Ignition needs to be advanced on low compression engines. I would try radiussing the flutes on cam. Possibly advancing cam to open intake before TDC. Keep playing with it and it will purr like a kitten...
I was going to say exactly that. You can tell the timing isn't right because there's exhaust blowing out the carb. Like when he got sprayed in the eyes towards the end. Watch the mist coming out of the can of starter fluid.
Plus, if compression is the issue, make a little bit longer rod. Or make/find/buy a new piston. Probably, it's easier to just make a rod for it.
It’s not cam control didn’t you watch the video ?
Prendi due camere dei due tempi una la usi per alloggio del pistone, altra camera per albero del aspiracione e motore funzionera da dio🤣🤣🤣🤣👋
@@pufango4059 what do you call it?
You can not give up on this! Double check "valve" overlap timing and also ignition timing (5-10deg BTDC) and get a static compression ratio number (IE 8.3:1) to see where you are in the design.
And of course do a compression test(800-1000kPa preferred)
Definitely ignition timing when it backfired through the carburetor 180° out. Also your first mag coil was grounded out on the case it was arcing by the intake flange.
@@LionHeartOG I noticed the arc at around 3 o'clock on the intake flange, but it appears to be the work light on the drill shining thru the cooling fins on flywheel. I also believe that U need some sort of timing adjustment, as well as some way to advance it a higher RPM. Once U get the compression leak around the camshaft fixed. Keep plugging, U will get it!
@@LionHeartOG Yes this engine will run, we need redemption! :D
I really liked the video, at least you tried to make it work. Waiting for the next video. good luck !!!
I love you showed ll the failures, this is so important to all the young crafters in the world to see everyone has failures, but you keep learning and fixing!
Чтобы деталь крутилась в детали, нужно иметь между ними зазор не менее 0.05 мм. Это не герметично для газов. Есть другой способ убрать этот зазор полностью. На одной детали нужно сделать канавку и утопить в неё на пружинке шторку, которая будет всегда притираться с движущимся валом, стенкой корпуса. Такая деталь уплотнения стоит в воздушных высокооборотистых шуруповертах, которые работают безотказно 20 000 часов (проверенно мною) и им хоть бы что. И сделать их можно не из металла, а высокотемпературного пластика, текстолита. Всего то делов, прострогать канавку и вставить на пружинке текстолит. Это будет герметичнее и надёжнее клапанов. С компрессией можно справиться. Другое дело нагар и его воздействие на стенки как абразив. Смазка движущихся частей, которые на сухую не должны работать. И это тоже легко решается, если перед компрессионной пластиной из текстолита поставить одно или два компрессионных пластины из твёрдого металла, как у обычных компрессионных колец, с дополнительной маслосъемный пластиной. Без них компрессию не создать. Но пластины на пружинке будут работать 100 лет в отличии от колец поршней, срок работы которых ограничен конструкцией поршня. Так что это очень хорошая идея, создать двигатель облегчённый, надёжный, без громоздкой ГРМ. Это двигатель будущего, для самолётов, планеров, ЛЛА, мотоциклов и машин. Продолжайте дорабатывать !
Салфеточку бы посмотреть... С расчётами...
@@RealBlackFalcon Это элементарно Ватсон ! У поршневого кольца упругость колец падает в квадрате от выработке колец и стенок цилиндра и зазор в кольцах - основная потеря компрессии двигателя. Нагар под кольцами - основная причина выхода их из строя из за залипания. Какое бы качественное топливо не было использовано. От масла моторного ни куда не денешься. Упругость кольца ограничена её конструкцией, больше не сделать при всём желании. У шторок никакого зазора нет и не может быть, а усилие прижатия может регулироваться не ограничено, как механическим способом, пружиной и регулировочной пластиной, эксцентриком, так и пневматическим, гидравлическим способами. Множество вариантов. Всегда можно держать компрессию под контролем. Ресурс мотора напрямую зависит от выработки поршневой группы. Салфетка нужна для другого дела. Тесла (без салфетки) ни сделал ни одного письменного расчёта, а его изобретения до сих пор никто не повторил. Мотор Кавасаки сделан был чисто экспериментальным путём, по интуиции, и его двигатель считается не превзойдённым шедевром мирового моторостроения до сих пор. Это было время безотказных двигателей миллионников. Практика, опыт - фундамент науки, но никак не наоборот.
If you use two shaft controlled intake and exhaust，maybe better
Make same size. Heat one freeze other
Что скажете насчет роторного двс от Liquid Piston? Вот это как по мне реально двигатель будущего. Повышенный значительно кпд, возможность изготовления под разные виды топлива вплоть до дизеля! При этом малые габариты вкупе с большой производительностью.
This is so much more than I ever saw being done in a 'garage'. Great engineering with heart & soul! No matter wether it worked or not , man, you are my hero! 🤗
Podziwiam za wytrwałość i gratuluje projektu!!!
Ugh. This is the coolest video on the internet. Such amazing creativity!
Its seems as if the timing is off just fractionally, not sure how much compression you are getting but if that is close to enough, I think with different timing it could run.
When he first tried, it was definitely too far advanced, hence the kick-back. You are correct, with the timing retarded slightly it will run. Good work and good video in all.
yeah ignition timing needs to have some slots so he can adjust it.who knows what advance that type of system needs.
I think you may have taken a lot of assumptions for valve size, intake duration, shape of inlet and outlet, etc. Check out the Coates Spherical Rotary Valve system. It is a similar idea of what you're trying to do here.
I’d say you are right! This idea would most like work with some tweaking of intake and exhaust ports. And timing who knows what kind of power it would have though, I’d say it would run.
Yeah ..ford did a bunch of stuff with Coates
Believing that this is an invention in any way, that nobody else has tried this before, really shows how arrogant the creator is.
Exactly what I came to say
@@xaytana ignorant maybe but arrogant i dont believe, regardless his ignorance is more respectful than your etiquette or critique
Excellent idea and follow through! Well done Sir!
Haven't even watched the video all the way through n I'm glued lol... you go dude 👍🏾
Your craftsmanship is amazing. my heartfelt congratulation to you. I strongly believe you should continue this project and this will definitely succeed. I suggest 3 modifications:
1.about the compression issue use rotary seal on both side intake and exhaust between the pipe and body.
2. in IC Engine valve timing is very very important to run a engine. i suggest instead of a single pipe inlet/exhaust. make it seperate and then fasten it face to face, by that you can change inlet vs outlet angle(which is now fixed). also timing with respect to crank rotation can be managed by usual timing chain shift as we do in conventional ic engine.
3. you have to manage the spark timing, which can be managed by making the pick up coil adjustable. degree forward or backward. cause you know spark is not at TDC , you need to adjust that.
i strongly believe you will definitely succeed in this.
i am ready to volunteer help in this project to make it success.
feel free to reply. i will clarify.
Generous offer 👍
Rotary valve engines have been around for a long time, well over 100 years. They always come up against the same two problems, lubrication of the mating rotary surfaces and sealing. Nobody, even very experienced developers like Cosworth have been able to solve these issues. The nearest solution was sleeve valves as used in the Napier Sabre and Bristol Centaurus and Hercules engines. However if you watch a video of one of these engines starting, you will immediately see the problem in today's pollution conscious world. A Bristol Centaurus when starting, can cover a whole airport with burnt oil smoke.
Ya I was going to bring up sleeve valves too but the idea of a rotary valve is cool… too bad they have so many issues.
Ничто не делается без проб,ошибок и последующей доводки до УМА.
Don't forget the Coates Spherical Rotary Valve, they've been trying to get that thing working for decades now. It probably had the most promise out of all of them but after 30 years they still haven't been able to get anything on the road beyond a few prototypes.
Such a beautiful build! And it seems just on the edge of running... I can't wait to see the next video, apparently you have it running there!
I am watching this over a year late, but thanks for the hard work designing, machining, recording, editing this video (and more I am sure). Yours is a top-notch channel!
There is also next video, you should watch it:-)
Yes!...a fantastic piece of work, and exactly the kind of pioneering spirit that got us to where we are today. About one hundred years ago, an American manufacturer tried to market a car using a similar style of tubular valve. As ever, the problem of sealing was not solved. Somewhere, I have an article on this car which was written-up by the magazine, "Automobile Quarterly". I can't remember the name!...However, I will do a little research and report on any findings.
OUTSTANDING! And it did make some fantastic putputput noises.
PS: you must vent the crankcase to prevent reverse compression against the piston.
Especially in a single cylinder
Мы не обсуждаем нюансы, обсуждаем концептуальность.
Yes 🙂.
Solid advice
I haven't viewed much of this yet, but I assume it is a 2 stroke motor where the pressures in the bottom end are vented (transferred) through the cylinder ports.
It doesn’t SOUND like a compression issue to me. I’ve seen old engines that had 30psi compression (I consider 90psi and less to be low on most engines) fire right up and ring great. Sounds to me like timing. Try advancing your ignition timing a little, maybe slowing it. If that doesn’t work try messing with the rotary valve timing a little. You’re definitely on to something though. Considering that it’s a 65mm (or whatever it was) bore that looks to be fair compression.
My thoughts exactly. Backfiring and the flames from the exhaust side suggest late ignition. The fuel is igniting after the exhaust is open. Ignition system did not look adjustable from what i could see when he assembled it.
@@drickles37306 Bingo. If you can't light ether, you can't light anything.
Also a Hotter plug may help as well but, these where my thoughts as well
He didn't hook up a gauge to confirm compression. I'm also thinking timing the way it would back fire through the exhaust.
Compression seemed fine to me too, I thought timing too, though there was smoke from the exhaust, which suggests something else!
Patience is key, and I admire yours, my friend.
Excelente trabajo, felicidades, el mundo necesita más personas como tú. 👌
I really liked that you showed everything, not just the things that went well. My favourite was the pot part :)
Same here. A round peace of wood in the pod would have prevented the sides from collapsing inwards. :-)
It has to be an issue of intake and exhaust timing. This was SO cool to watch while eating my morning breakfast. Whether it worked or not you are very skilled with your lathes. Subscribing for sure!
Agreed! For Real some great follow through. Subscribed!
You spend an entire hour on breakfast?
@@davidreynolds731 Doesn’t everyone?
yep definatly a timing issue
@@ryanintopeka I would if I was watching this video, really entertaining. Well done, hope you fix it.
Your craftsman, ingenuity, and dedication are top notch! At least you are attempting to create something new and innovative, which is admirable. Thanks for taking us with you on this journey!!
It almost started several times, I do believe the problem is that you needed a way to adjust your coil around the flywheel so you can advance or retard the spark timing in reference to top dead center (TDC) of the piston, that would allow for easier start-up of the motor. Most engines fire at 8 deg. Before TDC, but if you could adjust your coil position it will change your TDC firing position.
I like his concept i would like it to run just out of curiosity
That is so much machining. What a freaking legend. I really liked how he made a self tapping spark plug. That was very clever
Фазы впуска - выпуска не отрегулированы. Момент искры тоже, при этом искра бьёт два раза за четыре такта вместо одного. Карбюратор не соответствует объёму двигателя, камера сгорания не имеет нужной степени сжатия. Задумка отличная, осталось довести до ума. Хочется увидеть продолжение. С меня подписка.
поддерживаю!
в автомобильных двигателях с модулем зажигания искра тоже бьет два раза за четыре такта
@@Lissopen Не будем забывать, что только с модулем, и что там стоят всё-таки клапана.
Даная система газораспределения не даёт надёного сжатия горючей смеси. Нет плотности. Распредвал пропускает газы. Вот поэтому в первый раз загорелся карбюратор. Надо переделывать только на клапана. Чтоб распредвал держал компрессию надо, чтоб он плотно сидел в скользящих подшипниках. При сильно плотности распредвал не сможет вращался, его заклинит. Вот всё одно с другим связано. Надо делать класическе клапана.
@@papa58857 Ну Вам-то конечно виднее о плотности узла распредвал - головка, ведь вы принимали участие в проекте и сделали все необходимые замеры и расчёты... В случае плохого уплотнения этот двигатель должен постоянно "чихать" , при чём в обе стороны одновременно. Могу сказать лишь одно, что двигатель с обычной системой работает и с не притертыми, и с зажатыми клапанами. Не идеально конечно, но всё-же работает. И если всё дело в уплотнении, то человеку надо всего лишь проточить пазы под резиновые уплотнения - колечки, и убедиться в этом. Узел будет не вечным, но времени на выяснение причины хватит. И если всё-же причина в отвратительном уплотнении, то можно подумать об реализации уплотнения, использующегося в роторных двигателях.
I never see a person who made things actually from the scratch.... really you are a pro....Respect 🙏
Plenty of compression for that to run, especially with the starting juice. I'm going to guess timing is very critical but I have no experience with rotary valve engines. You are one hell of a machinist and should keep going with this idea. I am definitely subscribing. Fantastic work!
I agree! And also agree he should try getting the port size and timing right! He needs to make another video doing it! He's definitely got plenty of attention for the views!!
Привет, очень хорошее видео. Как вариант чтобы увеличить компрессию нужно проточить на поршне ещё одну канавку для третьего компрессионного кольца, так же в место где вращается вал сделать проточку для сальника. Ещё можно применить другой вид топлива например: 1 часть эфира + 1 часть керосина+ 1 часть касторового масла.Такой вид топлива можно использовать для авиационных моделей,этот вид топлива можно использовать без свечей зажигания.
Ещё один способ для увеличения компрессии - можно сделать регулируемую камеру сгорания путем затяжки сверху болта( это второй поршень который находится в верхней мёртвой точке и регулировочный болт давит на этот поршень) Так происходит регулировка камеры сгорания.
По отношению к валу для впуска и выпуска: окно для выпуска должно быть немного больше чем для впуска - за счёт этого улучшается продувка камеры сгорания , тем самым улучшается коэффициент полезного действия.
Если интересно то я ещё могу много рассказать про это.
Удачи.!
Ещё как вариант нужно набить хон на цилиндре
А ещё можно взять уже готовый дигатель с нормальной компрессией, хоном, степенью сжатия, карбюратором, зажиганием и просто сделать кастомную головку как здесь.
ПС. Последние попытки пуска двигателя сделали мой день, 50 минут технонаслаждения и в конце 5 минут неудержимого смеха
Плохая компрессия здесь как раз из-за системы впуска-выпуска. Соединение распределительный вал - головка не обеспечивает достаточной герметичности. Эфир с керосином и касторкой здесь не помогут так как не обеспечена достаточная герметичность камеры сгорания и невозможно добиться необходимого давления и соответственно температуры для вспышки такого топлива.
I agree! Try a different fuel type! Awesome video!!!
Сальник не годиться, он быстро сгорит и сточиться.
This is a great video. Like truly great. Failures and all. Thanks for showing them. Every part of the video shows that you are extremely skilled and that your not afraid to try new things, how you problem solve and I honestly just love how you just go for it. U just do it. Great stuff.
I love that you are fearless in your pursuit of knowledge!
Your face when you make a mistake is priceless! I am just a layman but even I can see many advantages. No cam needed, no tappets/pushrods, no valve clearance issues, less weight, potential higher rpm, no loss due to valve springs and easy to change characteristics of inlet/exhaust timing. Brilliant concept and I admire your dedication and that you can still laugh afterwards. SUBBED
Yeah, I had trouble to sub, I couldn't stop watching!
Я случайно увидел это видео! Я просмотрел полностью работу этого мастера! Низкий поклон вам! Лайк подписка. И надеюсь этот двигатель запустится!
О еще один Поклонник Игоря Негоды И Левши) Шалом)
Присоединяюсь.Парень супер.👍☺️
I theorized the rotating valves 50 years ago but never came up with a functional sealing system for lubricant and engine hot gases. I applaud your effort to build your prototype.
If valve installing was made as a split head it would be possible to use sealing rings on valve tube. It would greatly improve sealing of combustion games and allow use of seals for tube lubrication. I know just boring holes for valve shafts seems direct but making top and bottom to assembly allows more control of overall sealing. Very similar to put to case halves together. Intake valving could also be improved by using a Reed valve to prevent back flow on poor sealing of rotating shaft as some clearance is needed to prevent shaft from grinding against housing. When thinking about my solution, thing of how multi cylinder. 2 strokes seal individual crankcase spaces to isolats each cyl.
I am liking this guy too much! Attentive to detail and progressive clean-up. Engine is beautiful thing.
17:48 - That is me almost every time I have a machining project. Marvelous video and project! Not only was your creativity in fabricating wonderful, your perseverance and attitude taught me so much.
สวัสดีค่ะพี่
Make the coil position adjustable so you can adjust the spark timing and advance it a bit from where you have it and it might just fire up.
with fire in the intake i think spark was too advanced (firing when intake was still open). unless that was fire from the overly rich mixture still burning in the cylinder past the exhaust stroke
@@thebluelunarmonkey There was a few little issues and ignition timing did seem to be too far advanced. Even if it requires that advance to run, it may require heavy retard to be started.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I'd tend to think too much spark advance would've made it try to fire but kick back on most every combustion stroke that had an ignitable mixture in the cylinder. Your 2nd thought is likely correct, that carb fire was from excessive fuel that got puked all over the thing, IMHO.
A valiant attempt and wonderful to see the creative mind at work!!
Really interesting idea! Great job!
I think it's about materials and quality...
Looked like a timing issue to me. Your talent and craftsmanship is amazing!! Keep up the good work!!
I think the timing chain tensioner is on the wrong side, and the gas inlet and outlet clearances
If your objective was to produce a working rotary-valve engine, be prepared to endure a thousand more iterations. If your objective was to become an even-more-competent machinist, designer and thinker, you've succeeded. Again. If your objective was to create another hour of uniquely compelling content ... well, I can't wait until your next installment!
I don't know, the Bristol Centaurus was used in British aircraft and Norton designed a two cyl race engine but it was plagued by the companies failing sales so no Capitol was available for newer designs.
I want to see him figure out how to make it work. I posted my idea, and now I’m reading all the comments to see everyone else’s.
@@terjeoseberg990 People already have figured out how to make them work. A lot of experimental stuff with internal combustion around the turn of the century. But for whatever reason they fell out of favor or production in the 1920's. (I'd guess issues with keeping a seal on the valve drum due to wear or scoring?) His best bet would be to look for historical examples and archival blueprints. Having a modern take on such a design would still be fun to get working.
I really enjoy this video. keep up the good work.
so much respect for a person who knows his craft well.. beautiful- amazing
Автор видео достоин уважения за упорство и большой объем проделанной работы. Идея впуска через вал не новая. Это принцип реализован в ранних авиамодельных двигателях внутреннего сгорания. Там чрезвычайно важно точно выдержать угол впрыска топлива. Желаю автору удачи в решении проблем с мотором и успешного запуска.
Вставной гильзой с окошком и регулятором угла можно регулировать угол впуска
Идея рабочая, надо просто довести. Можно подать жидкость в зазор (масло или вода), тем самым компрессия будет 100%. Чем больше зазор тем гуще жижа подойдёт.
Could you tell me what these types of engines are called? I'd like to look into them more.
@@user-gx7kh8jm6wтак либо жидкость в цилиндр давить будет, либо газы в жидкость
Или и то и другое попеременно
@@gremuare а как по твоему достигается герметичность между поршнем и цилиндром? - правильно, с помощью масленой плёнки. Таким же образом можно обеспечить отсутствие зазора в таком клапане
This man just built an engine of his own design from a lump of metal in his garage.. I mean really.
It’s a workshop full of equipment , it’s not a garage is it ?
It was a great try, thank you for your efforts and inspiration!
This guy's got one great imagination and he knows how build everything he dreams up. Thanks for sharing!
После каждой попытки доработать, устройство не работало всё лучше и лучше. )
Ты молодец! Руки у тебя золотые и голова светлая. Не торопись, подумай как следует, поймёшь, что улучшить. Удачи!
Вот парень устроил элемент газораспределения.
А не учёл такой момент - Размер входного и выходного отверстий.
Клапана на двигателях имеют разный диаметр.
А это не спроста так устроено.
It seems to me like a timing issue, either with ignition or cam timing or both. I would double check the ignition timing events, otherwise you might be opening the exhaust too early or closing the intake too late, bleeding off your dynamic compression.
I've said it before and I'll say it again.
The main problem is that the cylinder head/ camshaft assembly has a design flaw.
@@Cat-fy5lw And what is the flaw?
@@Anonymous-oy6rj The huge slot exposing the entire side of the camshaft at 21:12. The space between the camshaft and bore is letting compression escape like a corrupt jailhouse warden.
To fix that, I would move the camshaft up by a couple centimeters and have two small elliptical ports leading into the combustion chamber.
Another guy suggested that it could also be the timing. I'm thinking he might be right.
@@Cat-fy5lw I agree
I’d say look more at timing. Wouldn’t compression issues go out the window with enough speed starting it? Look at old rotary engines with worn tips.
love your work. First we must try, then try again. Your idea of rotary valve is a great idea. sealing between each phase, intake and Exhaust maybe where you are loosing compression. keep going, you are almost there :) Dave from Australia
excellent workmanship.congratulations
Its so amazing seeing a design process and seeing all the steps. I think its awesome that you shared this journey through this project even though it didnt work. Stuff like this is what we can use to learn the most.
The timing maybe off from diameter to diameter. Top gear maybe to small for rotation which caused the fire to come out on the fuel side. Cam oil feed also needs to be covered (This is causing your Compression getting force down the oil feed past the pump to the sump.) With a monel sleeve bearing of 5 thousands oil clearance with only 3 tiny holes 2 at each end and 1 in the center and 1 return on the opposite side will solve this problem. Plus note steel and aluminum tend to stick when they get hot cause steel expands faster while the aluminum which loses it's heat faster does not. There for always grabbing when you turn the engine for to long. Also the cylinder needs to be honed to hold oil and your missing the oil pick up on the crank that splashes oil up into the cylinder.🤔👍
Well said! I came to say something like that but, yours is better...
Well said :D
U are correct. The timing is wrong. I knew it before it was even finished
But u do beautiful work u have nice equipment
And I really appreciated he work u put in to making the video
I ve been building engines and making things run that have been laying for years and I’ve been doing it for 50 years So I do appreciate all the work u put into that engine and it can work with a little redesign
yaa
Love it. I,m a retired tool & die maker. But I was in racing my entire life. Drag racing, kart racing, on & on. I love watching guys as you. Experiment why your still have the drive you
do. God l can connect with what your doing, just questing it seems like intake & exhaust
Timing along with ignition. You get the three working together I think it will work. Take
Normal internal combustion engine & a degree wheel , record each opening closing and
The ignition timing & balance your engine to the one you recorded there degrees at. Keep
Us posted my friend. It was trying, to start, I think your close, do not give up.
Brilliant machinist! Wish I could do that. I look & look and then adapt. I’m currently on 6 failures to 1 success. I find solutions “come” to me when I’m asleep in bed!
I would’ve given up long time ago. This guy is my fucking hero. Lasting that long without losing a nerve. You’ve got yourself a subscriber 👍
Что вы иностранцы - засранцы, поминаете лукавого, где надо и не надо?!
It may be that the timing is off a few degrees. Most cams open the valves up to 15 degrees or more before TDC since it takes time to get the air flowing.
*You’re doing great! You’ve done a great job!*
with this intake-exhaust design, you could build a variable timing engine by using a split shaft, a second chain and some levers to change the phase of the intake bore. if i'm not wrong, a variable timing setup can save your engine from being a fail project. good luck!
I feel your "valve tube" may beneffit from the use of piston rings running in groves to separte the inlet and outlet and tre outside and keep in compression. Should be a "simple" thing to machine a few groves and find some small engine rings. Well anyway. Fantastic work ! Fantastic video! Amazing entertainment.
Pure genuine I can’t believe that timing and intake and I exhaust very impressive.
I'm very happy to see a that someone build a rotary valve that finally working in reality♥️, the same idea I drew in the graphing paper when I was 12years old. I'm 31 now 🙂
Ну ты Самоделкин так и на заводе делают а ты дома и так профессионально вот что значит человек зародился идеей и доводит до конца Сто лайков тебе
Looks like timing issue. since the exhaust is coming out of the carburetor
Nice build!
Valve timing not spark :)
Great work, inspirational, investigative, dedicated. I hope you'll trying out diesel and/or some pre-heating. Your idea is great and you are full of skills. Don't give up but be careful with safety! Congratulations.
You’re an amazing engineer, sir. Beautiful machine as well.
The valveless concept has been done before and successfully so. Once you get your port timing and ignition timing figured out I'm sure it will run. Maybe need more adjustability with the ignition timing, looked to be firing too soon and then too late later on in your video.
I was thinking the same thing. timing was off. Compression for such a small engine should be fairly low.
Kohler uses an adjustable cam timing(mainly to reduce start up compression).Which engine?I forget.
@@genehunsinger3981 Honda does this with all of their small engines, china clones copy this design.
its definitely a timing issue
Yep. It's called a rotary valve engine. Companies that have made them include Roton Engine, Bishop Innovation, Mercedes-Ilmor, Coates International and National Engine Company.
Here's a suggestion. Make the intake and exhaust slots in a slight helix around the tube. By increasing or decreasing the twist, you can change the duration of intake/exhaust timing during the intake and exhaust stroke.
I like that idea, the port area may be OK but the timing is off with too little time/duration
I do love and enjoyed watching your creative ideas,its all interesting and fun to watch with
Great work with CNC machine friend. I'm amazed to see it....Good luck always🙏💪
Дело не в степени сжатия, на мой взгляд - даже сильно изношенные двигатели заводятся, хоть и не имеют прежней мощности.
Мне показалась странной система смазки распределительного вала - масло просто потоком хлещет в камеру сгорания и выхлопное отверстие. У вас просто "заливает" свечу и воспламенения топлива не происходит.
Попробуйте не короткое время запустить двигатель без масла в картере двигателя - должно заработать.
ХернЁй он страдает.
Титанический труд
I doubt that compression was the problem, it's probably a timing problem.
I was thinking the same thing
You couldnt be more wrong about it. The Problem with the rotating shaft as an exhaust does not end there. This isnt a new idea. Many have tried, all of them have failed. Even if he would have gotten it started, as soon the Steel shaft gets "fire" it will either sieze in the head or the aluminum head will probably expand more than the sagt and will Loose even more compression. You can clearly see that the engine has seized many times without even starting.
@@alexi077 It's not something that can be done willy-nilly, but I think it can be done. There's probably not enough benefit in it for anyone to try to perfect it. I wish the guy had done a compression test, kinda silly that he didn't.
Podrías intentar con turbosina para aviones para compensar la baja compresión 🤔
Its definitely timing. Needed a adjuster there. Thats too retarded. Needs to advanced like 20 degrees. Its firing when the piston on exhaust stroke
Great job done absolutely beautiful.
Your job is awesome, great try, it was not a failure but learning.
Привет друг!Отличное видео.Жаль,что этот двигатель так и не удалось запустить.Очень много труда было в него вложено.У тебя золотые руки👍👍👍
Переделать головку на клапанах и много работы будет спасено.
As a machinist this is really nice to see someone knowing how to make due with what he has and creating something beautiful.
Btw, one small piece of advice start your threads on the milling machine. Just put the tap in the chuck, Realesse the quill and turn it by hand. That way they are going to come out straight every time.
A shame it didn't end up working
How cool was that tap made from a spark plugs, haha!
200years ago (and more) this sort of thing was going on in Great Britain and led to the industrial revolution - keep on trucking, the world needs new solutions, to old problems, all the time!
Gr8 vid, your machining skills are AMAZING! What was compression pressure in the end? Thnx for posting!
Have been knocking this idea around for decades. Couldn't come up with a way to positively seal rotary valves, intake and exhaust probably must be seperate or firing engine could ignite intake charge (or at least cancel intake vacuum) . Also firing pressure is much higher than static pressure so good seals essential. Glad to see it this close to working, eager to see your next iteration. 10👍/10👍
Yamaha built a rotary valve engine many years ago. I don't know what they used for valve seals but it ran and had a very flat power curve. My brother and I were considering to build a rotary valve V8 but still have to contend with seals. Other than low compression, maybe your valve timing is off, with both intake and exhaust being open.
The intake and exhaust ports should probably be neuraled so they can also act slightly as flow pumps, adjust duration and allow for a closer machine fit without edge to edge binding, shaft should also be sleeved.
I think timing should be advanced a tooth or two and intake needs a better seal.
His ignition timing may also be to far advanced.
The system I describe above solved that problem with extremely minute tolerances, the valves were circular with circular edges across the depth, that fit exactly into a rounded groove, each side had a valve through it and then for some reason out the flat side instead of straight through, I mean if they were straight it would eliminate the poppet valve and it being directly in the way of air flow, just an "X" through it and offset on the shaft so that the timing was correct. Their website said the shaft with the valves was gear driven, directly connected to the crankshaft. Which I think is Brilliant and will attempt to engineer a set for the performance car build I'm working on, possibly a little transmission for VVT to adjust maybe a CVT for a bicycle....
Your ingenuity and persistence is inspiring. Great job not only on the project but on the video itself. Brilliant... Awesome..
Thank you for including all the mistakes. This makes the audience experience your efforts as though they participated in the work.
Excellent results - though the engine does not work. The valving design is similar to some steam engine concepts where the valve seal requirements are not so demanding.
Enjoyed every minute of this video!
Good experiment, thanks
Don’t give up man, I LOVE this video. The amount you must have grown as a machinist during the process is worth all the effort alone. If you can get this working we’ll all be beyond hyped. Even if it never gets working, everyone is already super impressed