LIVE - 18th C Stays: An Introduction to Materials & Getting Started
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2020
- Want to build a pair of historically accurate stays? In this Live, Angela, Christina & Brooke introduce our viewers to the materials needed and how to get started.
Some of the topics covered:
An overview of 18th century stays
Choosing your fabric and notions
Choosing or drafting a pattern and some of the things to think about
We talk about fit (and how it should be a future video)
We also talk about some of the basic assembly steps.
We answer some of your questions and will answer more in the comments!
Want to buy "Patterns of Fashion 5"? You can get it here! theschoolofhistoricaldress.org...
Visit our website for all the items we talked about here! burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
If you have been following our Sew Along Playlist • Sew Alongs - Jak na to + styl
Hi Everyone, Angela here! Your commentary finally loaded and OMG so many questions! We kind of knew that would be the case, stays are not something you tackle light heartedly!
*Many of you asked questions about various fabrics, wanting to know the difference between them etc. To avoid writing a tome to textiles, I would suggest going to our website. Look for the names of the fabrics you have questions about and you will find an explanation/definition there which I have written over the years based on my research. Another book to borrow or own with a world of textile information in it is "Textiles in America" By Florence Montgomery.
*Some of you were a bit confused about layers.
To clarify: Most stays are made up of four layers of fabric, the fashion or outer layer which you see, two inner layers which make up the area the boning will be sandwiched in and finally a lining layer which is not cut like the other three layers but is cut last using as few pieces as possible and felled to the inside of the stay.
Your fashion layer can be a medium to light weight fabric of wool (worsted is nicest) or linen and as you get into the later 80's and 90's it can be a heavier cotton (light a lightweight modern duck) Your two inner layers (these are the 2 layers that sandwich your boning) were usually made of a medium to medium heavy linen that had some stiffness to it. This can work just by using the fabric unwashed and leaving the sizing in or you can make it stiffer by applying a gum such as gum trangacanth (available online) or soaking in liquid starch. Your inside or lining layer is typically a light to medium weight linen. Here you can have fun with stripes or checks.
*Stitching your stays is done by layering 3 of your layers (remember the lining layer is separate) of each pattern piece together, basting them together then stitching all of your channels with a back stitch. Once all of these pieces are done they are whipped together going thru all layers to assemble. There is a good deal more then that but this gives you a starting point. We promise to do more videos on our Workshop platform coming soon.
* Lastly you can go to the front page of our website for one stop shopping for your supplies. You will need 1 yard each of fashion and lining fabric and 2 yards for your inside layers. You will also need enough tape for binding the whole outside which is usually a minimum of 5 yards. Finally you will need lacing cord and thread. If you have questions about commercial patterns we will be glad to help, and be sure to subscribe to our you tube channel so you don't miss out on future content!!! Happy Sewing!
I’m getting ready to start a more HA pair but still in the research part. This was such a great springboard!
I didn't realize you sold worsted wool. That's a textile I've been longing to sew. Thanks for the informative session, I enjoyed it and just purchased that saxon blue.
Saturday Sewing with Debbie it is one of my favorites!
I’m in love with the Saxon blue! I’m also lucky enough to live 45 minutes from Williamsburg and just pinky swore my husband into a trip to the store next month!! I can’t wait
Lynda Bird we actually aren’t a brick and mortar store, however we allow local curbside pickup if you are in the area!
Yes, please to the virtual workshops!!! I would love to take part! Also, I would love more information about wool in the summer. I live in GA and summer hates us!
I live in florida! Very interested in traditional fabrics to use in tropical settings. Need clothes that breathe. New clothing feels like plastic and can't breathe!
Certainly lightweight worsteds can be very comfortable in warmer weather. These lighter wools are then same weight as linen or cotton and breath very nicely
I've literally decided today to get into this century of clothing. THANK YOU!
Harlie Des Roches hurrah!! Welcome!
I went on vacation last weekend and ended up buying a bunch of fabric. Now I have an itch to make my first pair of stays, so I'm really happy you guys covered this topic. I've also subscribed as a local historical dressmaker had suggested making a bedgown, so I'll be going back into your videos and following that. Thank you!
Enjoy the sew alongs!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I definitely will! Have a great Cocovid!
This was so incredibly informative! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! You both have such great energy and have gotten me so excited to begin my Stays Journey! Much love from Los Angeles! x
Marissa Alexis thank you!
Thank you for your comments on wool. I've been preaching the gospel of wool and glad to hear it from the experts!
I had a friend help me do the mock up fitting in early February this year. Then coronavirus happened, and when I boned my stays, took so many pics in the mirror to see what the heck was going on behind my back. Four different try on sessions, lacing myself in, taking them off, adjusting, pre-lacing, pulling them over my head, and tightening them up again. Sigh. But I am soooooo happy with the results.
Just finished lining them this week, actually. I'll have to get some pics up online.
The struggle is real! I’m hoping that my current mock up will be my final!
Thank you, ladies!!!!
Thank you ladies!
I'm here very late to the party but thank you so much for keeping this video up! I'm about to embark on my first 18thc stays journey and you just made me realize that my fabric choice is all wrong (also I didn't realize how many layers go into stays so that was going to be a whole host of problems lol). Thank you!!!
I’m fascinated with domestic history since finding family history back to the filles du roi colonists in the 17 & 18th century. Your videos were very inspirational. I just made my first practice stay and shift from supplies I could find locally. We have one Walmart with empty fabric shelves. So I got canvas from Home Depot, and searched the curtain and bedding sections. I even found placemats in a printed canvas that I repurposed. I used plastic balloon sticks from the party section at Walmart and it worked. I’m looking forward to making a historically correct complete outfit with help from your videos.
I applaud your innovation!
There is a pair of red glazed linen stays in the collection of the Highland Folk Museum in Newtonmore as well and they’ve kept their colour beautifully as well (although they were clearly worn lots and lots!) :-)
Thank you for that as I have been waiting an eternity to see the Scottish stays so perhaps I can examine those instead!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I’ll email some photos over to Christina so you can all have a good look :-)
Catching this after the live stream. Thank you for this informational video but also for your link to your store. I am new-ish to the costuming scene (very new to the historical fashion part of this) and I've been struggling to find historical appropriate materials. My area isn't very historical costume friendly so I have to source most of my needs online.
Lyesera we are here to help! Have a look around our channel. Our LIVES associated with our sew alongs talk a lot about fabric choices and fashion history.
Soooo informative!! Thank you! I'm on the hunt for flat busted tiny woman stays lol I have a pair I built before but I'm pumped to make new ones with your materials!
Thank you for your great session. I believe that I shall attempt to make some stays. I thought I would start easy and purchased the pattern for a shift and because of Abby’s speech on thimbles, I got one of those too. Thanks again for your very informative session
You two ladies are a hoot! Thank you for a wonderful video. Who knows... I may put the Viking and 14th century stuff in the closet for a bit and make a corset!
Lots of love from stafford va!
Thanks to Cocovid and this wonderful chat (among many others) I’ve moved from being a lurker/admirer to planning my first historical garments. Have watched twice and placed and order for the basics, looking forward to stays in my future! Or maybe jumps, which feel slightly more approachable?
Hand stitching my hopefully final mock up of a pair of 17th century stays from patterns of fashion 5. Inspired by the same stays that Morgan dinner recreated only much less fancy! I used the information from the arc method to figure out how to adapt the pattern to my sizing. I ordered the bone awl from Burnley and Trowbridge because my woodworking awls weren’t quite right! Anyway what I’m saying is I’m excited to see this video! Wish me luck on my first pair of stays!
Kimberly Erin absolutely!
I starched the everloving hell out of the fabric Im using for stays. Also spray basting was a godsend.
I love the session!! Very informative. I did end up with a couple of questions... I love working with linen (and hate coutil) so I was wondering until when were stays and corset worked on using linen. Also, would you consider doing an information session or a tutorial (or sew along/workshop 😉) about bust enhancers using during the 18th century? How about one on shifts with long sleeves and cuffs? Thank you for all the work you put into teaching us. Blessings!!!
Hi Cecilia, never enough time when it comes to stays! Linen is still being used to the end of the century although you do see an introduction to heavier cottons such as "jean" being used in the lighter boned transitional stays. We definitely have a video planned for putting a sleeve with cuff on your shift as an addition to the shift sew along. We also could do a little information video about the various things you find being used in stays. We like to call them bosom buddies!
Burnley and Trowbridge Co. Like I’ve always said, you girls are awesome. Thank you for your reply. I look forward to learning more. Stay safe. Blessings to you and yours.
Thank you for teaching.
Badge @54:32.
Oh that red linen is beautiful. I need to make a gown from it.
Isn't it?! I could see this as a very simple medieval kirtle because that red is striking on its own.
@@sc0ttishlass I was actually thinking a kirtle, yeah.
@@Sabatuar Great minds :)
I found some animal parchment I am going to experiment with for binding. If I cut it in half inch strips it makes 16 yards and comes out $3 cheaper then the same amount of your 5/8 linen twill tape. I'll let you know how it goes.
I got some kid leather cheap from a local tannery. It's really soft and pliable
Linda Ursin perfect!!!
I just loved this video!! You guys are so open with us. I am so happy that all of you are yourselves on the videos and that really makes all of the difference for me. I learn so much each time and I am finally going to be able to start sewing in a couple of weeks. I am disabled and have been going through some difficult times for the past few months, but have taken LOTS of notes to help me with the process. I do have a physical issue though with stays and corsets. I can't reach around to my back and am wondering how to make both with front closures. I know it won't be historically accurate, but that is my reality, so I am wondering if a zipper could be put in the front? This would be easier for me than hooking up the busk in the front. Lacing would be ok but somewhat difficult for me. I hope there is a possible solution as I really want to participate! Thank you again for such a great video! I am a fan forever!
Peggy R I actually have an acquaintance who has learned how to do exactly that because of a disability!!! Let me reach out to her and get back to you. Could you send me an email? Just go to our site.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Yes I will!!
Peggy I have info for you please send me an email they our website!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I sent you my email today, Friday, Aug. 7th. Thank you so much.
This is so informative! Thank you so much! One question - what would be best to use for lacings? The new website is BEAUTIFUL by the way!
One More Teaspoon Creative we have linen cord which is very similar cord to the cord Angela has studied.
you can simply make you own cord. there are surprisingly a lot of resources here on youtube that teach you how to plait your own cord. it is a good thing to learn for historical costuming because plaiting is also something they did alot in their hair!
Thank you both! Appreciate it ❤️
I would love a stays sew a long. Fitting videos are easy to find, but I have not seen period correct construction videos.
Hi Candice! Stays are very complex and can have a lot of different layers and components that go into them so they wouldn't really fit well into a sew along. We do, however, offer an online workshop for stays construction that covers everything you need to know to build the foundation for a well made pair of stays. Keep an eye on our social media and workshop page on our website for more info: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/pages/online-workshops
Is there any chance of that beautiful cotton print that Angela showed in a previous video (brown with flowers) being re-done in the future? I keep dreaming and wishing for it!
Hi Jennie, there is always a chance! We have three reprints that are in the queue, then we will see
Hey, if they can make a drum out of a groundhog skin I see no reason why they cannot bind stays out of the same.
I used zanthum gum. You can get it at the grocery store.
What is the best to use for cording?
You see linen cording as well as silk. I have documented several linen cords. Our linen cord is very similar.
Question, could I reuse a muslin mock up as the lining?
Kirie Himuro the lining is typically fewer pieces then the stays themselves. No need for all those seams. Most often the lining is linen.
Late question, I know, but I'm still rather confused about fabric. I made a pair of half-boned stays using linen canvas for the support layers but they have stretched significantly. I thought I'd try creating my own buckram with gum tragacanth for the next pair. Would you recommend buckram for both layers of the support fabric "sandwich"? One layer of buckram and one layer of mid/heavyweight linen?
Christina tends to just use buckram in areas where reinforcements might be necessary. If you have a good, stable mid weight linen for the canvases then you should be in good shape once the boning goes in .
What is the best material for binding. Is it leather?
You see a lot of leather, but by the same token you see linen, wool and silk being used. Truthfully leather is very hard wearing but you want to find a fine kid leather. I would suggest linen if you can’t find fine kid.
the cheapest copies I have been able to find of patterns of fashion are in the 400 dollar mark, do you know if there will be more printed as well as reprints of the previous 4? they are so so so hard to find!
Absolutely! Patterns of Fashion 1 will be coming out soon. The School of Historical Dress in London owns the rights and will be reprinting all of them
Thank you for your very informative stays video! I am currently working on my first pair of 18th century stays & this was very helpful! Completely off topic but what is the lovely outfit on display to the left side of the screen? Is it’s a bed gown with a blue skirt? And do you carry both of those fabrics?
2nd Chance Gypsy it is! Made during our bedgown sew along
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge do you happen to know which fabric was used for the skirt? I'm off to see if I can find the bedgown fabric on the new site!
2nd Chance Gypsy yes that was our gold camlet it’s still on our website 😁
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you! I didn't see the fabric used for the bedgown but I'll see if I can find the skirt fabric.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge so sorry to bother y'all again but the skirt looks blue on my screen or is there also an apron? Its hard to tell from what I can see. TIA!
I make 1/6 scale dolls in historical clothes of course can you suggest fabrics that would look in scale? up to now I have mostly used cotton but would like to try linen, wool and maybe silk if I can afford it I looked at ur site looks like you have just about everything but i could not decide what is fine enough thanks
Hi Jo, I would go with one of our really fine plain woven worsted wools for the outer layer. Since other layers are not seen, you can use our regular medium or lightweight natural linen for the canvas portion.
The dress in the left background of you with the jean looking apron what is it? Did you do a video on it? If not can you? It looks like something I would like to wear everyday 😍
me that’s Angela’s bedgown! Tune into our bedgown sew along to make your own!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you so much 💕
I have a silk wool blend from you, would that be a good fashion fabric to use for a set of stays?
A Gypsy Circle depending on what it looks like yes. They were definitely weaving silk and wool together.
Burnley and Trowbridge Co. Thank you!
What temperature should the water be in the tub when you wash stays?
Cryssi O. So I usually use warm water with a bit of gentle soap and that works well along with an air dry. If you decide to use wood,, be aware that it could leech and stain your stays
just don't wash your stays. there is no reason to. you shouldn't be wearing them directly against your skin. you should always have chemise/shift underneath of the stay. this will pretty much prevent it from ever getting gross. if SOME HOW it gets gross or you are just being OCD and want to "clean" it for some unbeknownst reason to the world. take a bottle of vodka, pour it into a spray bottle and spritz it lightly over the stay. then hang it inside out to air. laying it in the sun is also a fantastic way to "clean" it. they have been using the sun to bleach and clean things for centuries. to prevent anything from happening to your stay, when you take it off you should hang it up either on a hanger or on the back of a chair, with the inside facing the outside, so it can properly air out. simply following this one tip will prevent you from ever feeling the need to "clean" it.
….by the same logic we shouldn’t wash our modern shirts if we wear an undershirt?
I’ve been at events where I’ve sweated completely through my stays. They really *do* need to be washed after that.
Would a typical working woman have multiple pairs of stays? Or would she wear the same stays every day?
The hard part about stays is that they often do not show up in writing such as inventory’s giving us a better understanding. More then one pair “might” occur as fashions change, but I don’t see it being typical to own more then one pair.
Where can one get Patterns of Fashion 5? I have been trying to find a few of Janet Arnold's books and they are unbelievably expensive IF I can even find them. A quick Google search didn't bring up any results to purchase that book.
Hi! Patterns of Fashion 5 is only available from the Publishers theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/?page_id=465
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you so much!!! 🖤🖤🖤
The rights to publish are being moved to a new publisher and there is a plan to republish. So don't worry, the vol 1-4 will be reappearing soon.
Goth Empress the publication rights will all be owned by School of Historical Dress. See link in our definition.
@@999Giustina that is so exciting to hear! I've been looking for them and I really can't afford to buy them at the price that most second hand places have them right now. I'm not surprised they're in such high demand!!
Will captions be available for this?
Hi Elizabeth! At the moment, you should be able to turn on captioning via CZcams. (They aren't always perfect, we know, and we are going to be working our way through our catalog of videos to update CC as we know that many use this feature to access content.)
Burnley and Trowbridge Co. captions are unavailable per youtube?
Oh no! We'll check the settings and see what's up. We usually set the videos to allow for CC if you turn them on via CZcams.
Not “corpulent”!!! 🤣🤣 We’re “Junosque”!! 😉😎
Mrs. Slocombe: “About what build is Madam?”
Male Customer: “Actually, rather like yours, stoutish.”
Mrs. Slocombe: (dead eyed stare and her don’t-you-dare voice😑) “In the trade, we call it "junoesque".”
Linen is flax. Cotton is not linen. Flax was grown by colonists, enabling them to make their own cloth. I have read that linen was not woven as it is today, and was far denser than now. Apparently linen is now woven like cotton, which causes some problems. Back in the historical period wool and linen were it.
Stephen Gent yes you are correct that linen is woven from the flax plant and that processes have changed. You can still find some linens where the flax has not been chopped or processed for softening. These are the linens we look for as they more closely resemble the earlier linens. Cotton did exist in the 18thc however, and that is a lecture in and of itself.
...no. That really isn't the answer I was looking for. I'm not disappointed in the effort you put into explaining any of this, just seriously frustrated that there AREN'T better answers. TLDR; I'm whining. I know this.
I JUST want to support my overly heavy breasts in an attempt to mitigate shoulder and nerve issues, and migraines - without resorting to surgery that may not provide the relief I'm hoping for. A properly fitted external support garment should be the obvious simple solution. It worked for women for hundreds of years. There way a huge amount of innovation and experimentation in making these garments work. My breasts not incredibly sized, just, big enough to cause me issues. It seems very promising that distributing the weight of the breasts between both the shoulder and the hips would be a better solution than modern bras - even well made properly fitted ones. Why on earth should I even consider the possibility of surgical intervention (other than wanting to not be in pain literally ALL THE TIME), when there are non-invasive solutions - that are aesthetic and awesome.
I wouldn't even be considering making my own stays/corset - if I could realistically find someone who could make them for me. The reality is there seems not to be. $600 CAD for a simple and plain custom corset/stays is ENTIRELY FAIR. I would be happy to pay that. (Why custom, because I've looked at the measurement charts for all the sites and apparently I'm non-standard. I see plenty of women shaped similarly to me in the wild, but apparently female bodies with a bust and waist the same size don't exist in ANY type of fitted garment or patterns (bust and waist of the same size). There seems to be no one who makes corsetry, with the goal of breast support, intended for everyday wear - within Canada, let alone Ontario. I can work with a maker in the US or UK, but shipping mock ups back and forth adds $150-200. Fair cost, they can't control the price of cross border shipping, tracking, or customs fees. In addition, the additional potential for less accuracy and poor communication... not great.
So ok, why not make my own. I can sew! Uh... well sure. But I can't fit a garment for crap. 3D geometry, let alone human body shapes and getting fabric to do those things where it isn't flat is my nemesis. (I'm a quilter.) If someone could say to me, "THIS PATTERN WILL WORK FOR YOU!" which I get what you're saying - if only... I might feel a bit more confident in making the investment in all of the materials to attempt to make a very complex project, that I KNOW is going to lead to a huge amount of frustration for me. I figure at best, assuming no major pitfalls, and using machine stitching wherever is reasonable to, I might manage to finish in 2 years. This is accounting for putting it aside for a month, or more, multiple times, while my anger for it not working dissipates, and I go research how to do the thing, and decide on materials, and wait for the order... Aside from the fact that doing this type of sewing project doesn't interest me. Learning about the materials, construction techniques, the innovations, the history of the garments and the society... that's fascinating. That's why I watch videos on historical costuming.
I can't be the only person in this situation. And that's what is making me so frustrated. How many of us would be better off, had society not decided we would ALL support our breasts only from our shoulders in the name of comfort and freedom - nearly eliminating an entire craft/trade. Check out lists of links to corset/stay makers. A few years later, half the links are broken. Lists of makers who cater to non-wedding corsets seem particularly susceptible to disappearing. If people with the interest in it are unlikely to be able to make a living and the rate of businesses that undertake this which fail financially, or burn out their proprietors, why WOULD anyone get into it? But I feel sure it's not for a lack of people who are shaped in ways that would benefit, if they had good information.
I'm going to suggest you try the method in this video czcams.com/video/_aLSG8E3v8g/video.html . It is the most simple way to change a pattern to fit you. No need to stay with the miniature if you want to use a larger pattern. It is a good way in my opinion to get from A to YOU. Then watch videos or use blogs when you have questions. Hope this helps.
Lynn if a stay is fit properly it does support the bust. Your dimensions I believe you said are equal in bust and waist, am I correct? Depending on how squish able you are, you might find a later period corset like the one Tweedy Bird is suggesting to be more comfortable if you are considering it for daily wear. It will take the stress off of your neck and shoulders and allow your core to support your bust. I hope this helps!
Here are some resources you need. LucyCorsetry. Find her here on CZcams and then go to her website. She has a HUGE LIST of corsetiers. MANY, I mean MANY of them are in canada that is where Lucy herself lives. You do have access to well trained corsetiers, especially near ontario. I would NOT suggest stays for bust support. In many extant examples and writings have women with particularly large breast filling in their stays with padding under the bust to prevent the breasts from sinking into the stays. It is because they do not have the curved seams on victorian corsets, or even much later stays. The point of original stays was to flatten the front and create a conical look.
Then you need to go www.bratabase.com and BoobOrBust on Facebook (they might have a website, not 100 on that). This will help you find a PROPERLY supportive bra. 90% of women are wearing bras that do not fit them correctly. Most women think a D cup is huge, but it is not. It only indicates a difference of 4 inches between the UNDER bust measurement and the bust measurement. There should be NO strain being put on the straps of your bras in a well fitting bra. Women aren't supposed to be supporting their breasts from the shoulder. The straps are just their because it holds the cup in place.
I realize you bust and waist measurement are the same. But you also need your under bust measurement. You did not indicate if that is the same, and chances are it is not. But regardless if you bust and waist measurement are the same, in order to get proper support from a back brace or corset, you will have to reduce you waist a bit with the corset. So if you decide you want a cupped over bust corset with or without straps (which is what i would suggest for daily wear and comfort for ease of back pain and managing large breasts). If your measurements are 38 bust and 38 waist you will still need a corset that has a 38 bust and a 36 inch waist. If you got a corset with a 38 bust and 38 waist I can almost quarantee that your breasts will sag down into the front of the corset. And it wouldn't be very comfortable or provide much back support. I humans natural skeleton is just not set up to carry the same amount of weight around the chest and waist.
Your breasts shoulder NEVER be supported by your shoulders. A properly fitting bra does not depend on the shoulder straps AT ALL. It depends on a properly fitting band and cup. Same with a properly fitting corset (which i would recommend over stays in your particular situation), just with the corset the tension is all over the torso instead of just a band around your torso. You may want to look into longline bras. There are custom bra makers as well. You just gotta look into it.
Good luck and I hope you look into the resources I have given you.
*EDIT* I just wanted to give you more information about why your UNDER bust measurement and waist measurement must be smaller than your bust measurement for you to obtain ANY support. Think of anything construction wise. There is always something under neath the roof, keeping the roof up and supporting it. Same with tables and bookshelves. Like I said earlier, it is not likely that your under bust is the same measurement as your bust. In order for your breasts to get any support at all, the fabric under neath of them must be smaller in measurement. It is the natural way the human body is built, and I don't care what size you are, but to help your situation a great deal, I would highly suggest loosing weight. You will get a clearer sense of your true proportions. The human body is just not built to have just as large a waist as bust - just like the rib cage is not as big as the bust (the under bust). This is why there are no patterns or clothing or anything with male or female form that have bust and waist measurement the same. So you will have to reduce your waist atleast 2 inches to obtain any real support from a corset/back brace. Even a medical back brace. And to get a properly fitting bra, the band size must be the exact same measurement as your UNDER bust measurement. Your under bust measurement is far more important than your waist measurement when it comes to getting correct bust support. Good luck and I hope you see and can understand why you can not get proper support from a garment that is the same measurement up and down.
Bethany Day Wow! I thought I was the only person who wrote replies like that.
I do buy well made bras, fitted by a specialist in a specialty store. Apparently I’m F cup and I’m mystified by the idea that that translates adequately to a larger band size and smaller cup size. No mass manufacturing - it does not. While a well fitted bra makes a wonderful improvement, even transferring weight to the band is not the same as distributing it over a larger area.
For clarification, were you suggesting I’d be better with straps, or without?
I appreciate you explaining the stays situation. I had considered them, but thought the lack of a cup would involve sliding, and the body shape is likely not to fit well under a contemporary dress or blouse the way a cupped over bust corset would.
I’m going through my selection of mass manufacture fashion corsets - which I bought knowing their shortcomings, for aesthetic wear only - I’m seeing that yes, I do squish down the 2” ish around the waist. (But 2” squish smaller than ones bust is not what the patterns are designed for).
One of the major issues I’m noting with one, which has lacing in the back, and both sides, is that length is a crucial factor, and so are cups - not having cups does not agree with me, whether I adjust it to sit higher or lower. It just forces non-boob fat into weird very unaesthetic places. I bought it thinking with that much adjustment I couldn’t go wrong... Wrong.
I’ve been through Lucy Corsetry a couple months ago, I feel pretty throughly. Maybe in a few months from now some that are not taking commissions will be taking commissions again. Or back from a hiatus or whatever. A number of the links are to business which do not currently exist. I was super excited to see the list of all the options, only to slowly find out many of them - weren’t active. Some are also only really interested in making customs for very high end items. $1200+ I’m not devaluing the cost of a well made item, I simply don’t need or want something with those materials and that level of intricacy. And I can understand why a maker may not be interested enough in doing lower end custom work. It’s the same amount of measuring and patterning, and fitting, and refitting, and potentially just as many conversations with the customer - those costs don’t scale. So dealing with fewer custom orders but doing the most fabulous items becomes, at some point in your expertise a better business model.
Losing weight is of course a logical step. But it’s also intertwined with any number of mental, and situational things - as well as not being further exacerbated by the frustration of always being in pain. I’m not saying it’s not possible. But putting it on the list does not make it happen, and it’s entirely possible, or at least I had thought it would be, to find a supportive corset to reduce my pain which would in turn help towards being a more active person again.
Tweedy Birdy That is a cool way of explaining it. I like that.