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Burnley and Trowbridge Co.
United States
Registrace 5. 08. 2015
Hello!
Welcome to our Channel! After conducting Hands - On Fashion Workshops for many years we wanted a way to make some of the great information we share more accessible. This channel became that platform.
Here you can learn a new historic stitch or brush up on an old one. Find tips and tricks for construction and fashion. Or follow a sew-a-long to begin constructing your historic wardrobe. Be sure to check out our Lives for education AND entertainment! There is something for everyone here! We hope you enjoy our channel and we look forward to hearing from you!
Happy Sewing!
Welcome to our Channel! After conducting Hands - On Fashion Workshops for many years we wanted a way to make some of the great information we share more accessible. This channel became that platform.
Here you can learn a new historic stitch or brush up on an old one. Find tips and tricks for construction and fashion. Or follow a sew-a-long to begin constructing your historic wardrobe. Be sure to check out our Lives for education AND entertainment! There is something for everyone here! We hope you enjoy our channel and we look forward to hearing from you!
Happy Sewing!
Putting in an Underarm Gusset
Underarm gussets are a design feature that occurs in the 17th, 18th and on into the 19th century in shirts and shifts. It allows for ease in the arm but can be a bit fiddly to sew in. In this video we teach you how to put in a underarm gusset and finish it off neatly!
Never made a shift or shirt? Follow our Sew Alongs for step by step instructions!
Shift Sew Along: czcams.com/video/-x98eNS23hk/video.htmlsi=GccH4NasKnZYhFEN
Shirt Sew Along: czcams.com/video/DbSXr_0ftLk/video.htmlsi=CFb7sk48IZSsAwdg
Stitches used in this video:
Backstitch: czcams.com/video/9qxXvvyQE1I/video.html
Running Stitch: czcams.com/video/cdC4pgI8K-k/video.html
Felling Stitch: czcams.com/video/syXaZ14otCo/video.html
If you have been thinking about sewing an 18th century wardrobe (or a history bounding one) Follow our Sew Alongs to get dressed from toe to top! czcams.com/play/PLNyjJVmKWu_rYMBtTj4a7xX0w19VR2fRh.html
Be sure to subscribe and click the bell so you will know the moment we upload new videos for your viewing and sewing pleasure!
Never made a shift or shirt? Follow our Sew Alongs for step by step instructions!
Shift Sew Along: czcams.com/video/-x98eNS23hk/video.htmlsi=GccH4NasKnZYhFEN
Shirt Sew Along: czcams.com/video/DbSXr_0ftLk/video.htmlsi=CFb7sk48IZSsAwdg
Stitches used in this video:
Backstitch: czcams.com/video/9qxXvvyQE1I/video.html
Running Stitch: czcams.com/video/cdC4pgI8K-k/video.html
Felling Stitch: czcams.com/video/syXaZ14otCo/video.html
If you have been thinking about sewing an 18th century wardrobe (or a history bounding one) Follow our Sew Alongs to get dressed from toe to top! czcams.com/play/PLNyjJVmKWu_rYMBtTj4a7xX0w19VR2fRh.html
Be sure to subscribe and click the bell so you will know the moment we upload new videos for your viewing and sewing pleasure!
zhlédnutí: 1 480
Video
Learn to Hand Sew: Gathering Fabric
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 6 měsíci
Welcome to another Quick Stitch tutorial! Whether you are just learning to hand sew or brushing up on old skills, these tutorials are where you can learn the sewing methods of the 18th century and more. In this tutorial you will learn how to gather your fabric evenly for such details as the small gathers in the wristbands of 18thc shifts and shirts, gathers into the waist tape for aprons and ru...
Learn to Hand Sew: Pulling a Thread
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 7 měsíci
Welcome to another Quick Stitch tutorial! Whether you are just learning to hand sew or brushing up on old skills, these tutorials are where you can learn the sewing methods of the 18th century and more. In this tutorial you will learn how to pull a thread when working with linen fabric to make perfectly squared patterns pieces every time. A perfect skill for making shifts, shirts, ruffles, caps...
Learn to Hand Sew: The Eyelet
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 8 měsíci
Welcome to another Quick Stitch tutorial! Whether you are just learning to hand sew or brushing up on old skills, these tutorials are where you can learn the sewing methods of the 18th century and more. This tutorial covers the basic eyelet. Eyelets were used in stays, gowns, men's breeches and various other garments and accessories. They were simple to make with an awl, a needle and thread. If...
Make a Needle-book MINI Sew Along
zhlédnutí 3KPřed 9 měsíci
Welcome to our MINI Historical Sew Along Series! These quick and simple projects will give you lots of sewing satisfaction (as well as use up some scraps!) If you are new here, take time to cruise around our channel! You will find stitching tutorials, tips and tricks and lots of lives where we answer your historical sewing questions. Needle-books were an essential part of the sewing kit in the ...
Learn to Hand Sew: Thread Button
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 9 měsíci
Welcome to another Quick Stitch tutorial! A "Twist" or "Death Head" button was an extremely common button found in the 18th century. Used predominately on men's clothing it also found it's way to women's clothing on garments such as redingotes, compere' fronted gowns and Robes a la' Polonaise. These buttons were often listed for sale in advertisements ready made, but could be made in the home. ...
Learn to Hand Sew: More Needles- BONUS UPDATE
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed rokem
We've added new product that we love! Watch this short video! Did you miss our original Guide on Needles & Thread? Watch it here: czcams.com/video/lmQs9dANXsM/video.html Just starting your historical clothing journey? Welcome to our quick hand sewing tutorials where we teach stitches give guidance and teach techniques used by the 18th century Mantua Maker & Tailor that can be used in your sewin...
Furoshiki Gift Wrapping
zhlédnutí 885Před rokem
Furoshiki wrapping originated in Japan during the Nara period. It has evolved in modern times to a environmentally friendly way to turn a square or rectangle of cloth (or a Burnley & Trowbridge handkerchief!) into a beautiful method of wrapping a gift AND it provides a bonus gift! Our video provides a few methods or be creative and design your own! Our Handkerchiefs: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/co...
How to Make an 18th Century Short Cloak- Part 2
zhlédnutí 2,5KPřed rokem
Looking to make a short cloak for historical wear (or even your modern wardrobe?) This two part sew along covers everything you need to get started! (Missed Part 1? Watch it here: czcams.com/video/czsqRnN1ENQ/video.html) We're using the official B&T Short Cloak Pattern (link below) but the construction techniques we'll be covering will work for any short cloak that is made out of broadcloth (si...
How to Make an 18th Century Short Cloak- Part 1
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed rokem
Looking to make a short cloak for historical wear (or even your modern wardrobe?) This two part sew along covers everything you need to get started! We're using the official B&T Short Cloak Pattern (link below) but the construction techniques we'll be covering will work for any short cloak that is made out of broadcloth (silk gets put together a little bit differently.) In Part 1 we discuss the...
Learn to Hand Sew: The Mantuamaker's Seam
zhlédnutí 4,6KPřed 2 lety
Learn to Hand Sew: The Mantuamaker's Seam
Short on Fabric? Try 18th Century Piecing to Make It Work!
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed 2 lety
Short on Fabric? Try 18th Century Piecing to Make It Work!
How to Make an 18th Century Wrapping Gown- Part 2
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 2 lety
How to Make an 18th Century Wrapping Gown- Part 2
How to Make an 18th Century Wrapping Gown- Part 1
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 2 lety
How to Make an 18th Century Wrapping Gown- Part 1
Learn to Hand Sew: Rolled Whip Gather for Ruffles & Attaching to Your Garment
zhlédnutí 4,4KPřed 2 lety
Learn to Hand Sew: Rolled Whip Gather for Ruffles & Attaching to Your Garment
Learn to Hand Sew: The Spaced Backstitch
zhlédnutí 3,3KPřed 2 lety
Learn to Hand Sew: The Spaced Backstitch
Learn to Hand Sew: The Running Backstitch
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 2 lety
Learn to Hand Sew: The Running Backstitch
Learn to Hand Sew: Preparing Your Thread
zhlédnutí 3,7KPřed 2 lety
Learn to Hand Sew: Preparing Your Thread
How to Make a Pair of 18th Century Mitts- Part 2
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 2 lety
How to Make a Pair of 18th Century Mitts- Part 2
How to Make a Pair of 18th Century Mitts- Part 1
zhlédnutí 4,2KPřed 2 lety
How to Make a Pair of 18th Century Mitts- Part 1
How to Make an 18th century Shirt- Part 4
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 2 lety
How to Make an 18th century Shirt- Part 4
Although I have not yest mastered your Running Stitch, I am patiently trying to Sew Like You!
So it’s like a ladder stitch for the linings with the fashion layers just along for the ride/literally caught in the middle?
Kind of? It is a very strong stitch that alternately catches all layers
Would this be suitable for a weight bearing seam? Like the top of a shoulder?
So my sleeve reinforcements are only long enough to go around the sleeve and not to make that little 'Y' aling the side seam. Should I just continue as normal, or cut a new one out? The reinforcements only touch at the inside corners when pinned onto the sleeve.
If you have not sewn them in place, go ahead and cut larger ones.
What were color options like for middle class men? Did they all have generally white or off-white shirts? Or did they choose different colors to taste, like reds, blues, greens, browns...etc? Did they choose prints or only solids?
Whites are the norm. Checked and striped shirts were really meant for the laborers and sailors.
7164 linen
Your question?
Perhaps this is an odd question but I'm wondering why sewers back then didn't just cut a sleeve shape with ease rather than going the fiddly route of inserting a gusset into an unshaped sleeve.🤔
I'm not sure I can answer that through their perspective, but it makes sense to me that the simple geometric shapes wasted no fabric and also allowed for more variety in fit with the ease of the gusset.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Yes, that makes sense, thank you.
I unfortunately don't have enough fabric to cut the body on fold, but i do have enough to cut two seperate bodies. Should I just cut them separately and see the shoulders together? Is it possible?
Yes! There is evidence for extants occasionally done this way. When you sew the shoulder seams, sew them with wrong sides together. This will make an finished seam on the inside. You will then cover then raw edges of the seam with the shoulder reinforcement. Good luck!
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you so much! And thank you for getting back to me so quickly 💗 this is the first historical garment I'm making and these videos are so helpful
Love it!
Sleve cuff width in metric: 1-1.5 cm
Bernadette Banner's channel sent me to this tutorial. This was great for a beginner. I'm super excited to put this into practice.
This series is wonderful! Do you wash your linen before you start sewing the shirt? If so, what do you wash it with? Thank you and keep up the great work!
Yes you do. We suggest hot water with a cold rinse for maximum shrinkage!
I do wash my linen before I cut my pattern out.😊
I wash it with a nontoxic mild laundry powder I bought in Amazon. It is called Molly’s Suds.
Thank you! I feel like every pattern I use has a different method for attaching gussets and, every time, I get confused. I will try this method next. It makes sense when I'm watching it, but we'll see what happens when I actually do it! I am making a bedgown from a pattern that has gussets. Do bedgowns usually have gussets? The bedgown that I made from your pattern/sew along did not have gussets, so I'm wondering if the non-gusset method is more accurate? Or if some bedgowns had gussets and others didn't?
Hi, yes our bedgown is based on a bedgown probably from the late 60's early 70's with an English provenance. That is not to say gussets were not used but I personally have not seen them in bedgowns.
Thank you😊❤
Oh god the pen scratch noise at the beginning 😵💫 It's a lovely intro to pockets, though! (And what an excellent puppy.)
Sorry!
I thought the gusset was square, so was confused when you talked about the short vs. long sides.
Hi, the gusset is square. When referring to the long and short sides, I am referring to continuous stitching along the gusset and on into the shirt seam or the sleeve seam . Laying those over in one creates the neat appearance.
came to see if I do the gusset different. Stayed for the Mushroom Shirt.
Thanks 😁
Fabulous instructions. A question: when sewing by hand, do you regularly knot your thread, like every inch or so, while sewing a seam?
It is not necessary to knot your thread while sewing. The backstitch is a very strong stitch and will hold your seam together nicely!
Ah, wouldn't using a matching thread be best to blend in...or is that too obvious to mention?
The contrasting thread was for the sake of the video so that you as a viewer can see the stitches :)
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge yeah, I finally figured that out....thanks
but it's so so much easier and more efficient to sew the sleeve on first :(
Our evidence shows that is is sewn separate to the body and then stitched in one long seam encompassing the gusset. What is your method Vincent, would love to know.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I attach the sleeve to the body and finish that seam, then sew the gusset in on all 4 sides, then close up the long seams on the side and sleeve. Then I fell the side seams and sleeve seam & do the little hems, trim the body and sleeve seam allowances under the gusset, and fold the gusset seam allowances outwards and fell them. (I used to do it the other way for years, but it was more difficult and much less clean. I'm actually working on editing a very long shirt video right now, which is machine sewn, but mostly the same order as I do it by hand.) Modern shirts also have the sleeves sewn on first and then the side and sleeve closed up in one, as do some late 19th century shirts & nightgowns I've seen. I have sadly never had the opportunity to examine any 18th century garments, and I was very surprised to hear that the sleeves were attached at a later step! I suppose it does make sense in the context of an 18th century workshop though, if they wanted to have 3 people working on one shirt so as to finish it as quickly as possible. Like how several tailors could work on the sleeves and fronts of a coat before joining them together later. But for one person working on one shirt, much easier to attach them first!
Very helpful! Thank you!!
thanks for making and sharing this tutorial! you said that you find trimming the seam allowance easier than offsetting the seams for felling. is there evidence for a historical preference for one or the other? the ease of trimming versus the not generating cabbage? I assume they look the same on extant garments, but maybe there was writing about it?
So to my knowledge there is not specific writing saying to off-set or trim. In the 18thc linen was woven in shirt and shift widths so the selvage edges could be used which would result in not having to finish the edges which were selvage. I would welcome any primary information anyone has though!
Not terribly clear, and the white on white makes it tricky to see.
Hi, we used a contrasting thread to help with seeing it. Can you point to specifically what is not clear to you and perhaps I can help?
My personal confusion is knowing when you are working on the right or wrong side of the fabric. But I thank you so much for making this video it has answered many questions and I will try gussets again. 😊
@@jerriscott288 ah. Well, I am working on the wrong side of the fabric for this whole video as we are working on the interior of the shirt.
Thank you for this I’ve been struggling with putting gussets in my sleeves I now need to go undo one of my gussets because I putt it on the wrong side of my sleeve😅.
Thank you!
Grogu made me subscribe!!😂❤ Thank you for the tutorial. I was looking for ways to add ribbon on my hat.
love the stick but i think we need to create a new name
We totally understand. We really did not know how to approach it because when we did searches it seemed to be found more readily with the historical stitch name......It is time for a new name, we agree!
Made my pockets today, took me two days beginning to end, and they came out beautifully!
Is this effective for gathering skirts into a waist band?
I just acquired a linen men's shift from the 1800s France, gorgeous condition, bright white with not a stain on it. I want to take detailed photos to document it for the sake of future historians who are wondering what the fabric texture was like, how wide the hems were, how long the stitches were, etc. Where is a good place to upload the photos so as many people can access them as possible?
You could create an album online (google photos comes to mind) and then share the link in online sewing groups!
Thank U❤
Would you be able to make this for your mini mannequins by printing the pattern at 50% and then cutting the "full size equivalent" size? Which I believe would be M or L depending on how large the bust is made.
Yes printing at 50% for M or L would work for your mannequin!
Great tutorial and market wallets are so underrepresented in the reenacting community
Thanks!
How do you FINISH the lacing? Tie it off???
Hi you can tie off the string in a slip knot then tuck the tail down into the stays to keep it secure
So very interesting - thank you!!!
Thanks
Simply Beautiful!
Great video Burnley and Trowbridge: I'm glad you made this Tutorial it has been a great reference for me to create an 18th century shirt from. I will get a hold of your store about purchasing linens and wools for some upcoming projects for my colonial living history impersonation with the NWTA.-All my best always, Linda aka Captain Molly
Thanks! We are here to help!
I'm custom to use this kinda method almost always, but good thing you reminded me of the seam allowances - I always tend to forget 'em........ (But hey, that means more seams and that makes the garm even more intresting ;D) Thanks for this fun clip! Milla
Would cutting a larger collar piece help with ease?
You could make it slightly larger but anymore then that will end up being difficult to turn the corner neatly.
Wonderful! Thank you!
Great Instructions! I appreciate you adding things To Do as well as Things Not To Do (for best results).
I'm enjoying while learning a lot from your Mini Sew Alongs series. Thank You very much for sharing!
Once again you do not show the set up. And you go way too fast. The camera should be showing you do it in motion, not just photos of the needle already in the fabric. Really disappointing as a teaching video. Talking way too fast. We are trying to watch and learn. There is no way to back up, because it is just a still photo with fast talking. Please do over.
This is one of our older videos. which we will be re-doing. Please see our quick stitch tutorials for our newer videos of the majority of the stitches. This one is coming soon.
You do NOT show the beginning step. What are the positions of the fabric? Which is the right side, which is the wrong side? Can you please do this over?
Ann here is the updated video. I suggest you watch our Quick Stitch tutorials czcams.com/video/syXaZ14otCo/video.htmlsi=H6P7-D1wsQj2BHkD
On real projects, how do you make sure that the fold is even through out?
Hi! If you press down your first turn at the same width for all of your seams, it will be consistent. We also have a newer version of this stich. For all of our stitch tutorials in a new more concise version go to our Quick Stitch playlist! czcams.com/play/PLNyjJVmKWu_pOycwgVkcZ76diq8nVfGld.html&si=ZdCVnZ28D0LLP0HB
Okay now... you've just helped me recall what my Grandma Bettie and Grandma Mary taught me when I was a little girl. I want to sew more and more like my Grandmas. Thank You for helping be get there!
I'm enjoying this Shop Like A Pro session. I've learned some things that will make shopping much easier. Thanks for sharing time-saving instructions with important navigation details!
Is there an idea seam allowance when sewing the mantuamaker's seam? I'm from a place where we often do 1cm (3/8'') seam allowance, and I feel like this may be too narrow for mantuamaker's seam.
We use anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 depending on the fabric so 3/8 is not unreasonable at all!