I’m having trouble with my 90 f250 running very rich and hard start and backfiring from tail pipe and through intake. I took throttle body off and cleaned everything up, put it back on now it won’t start. Smell a lot of fuel just cranking the engine I did not change the tbsp but I did remove it when I was cleaning everything and there is so much fuel being dumped in that it was wet down in the sensor. Initial timing is set, new map sensor, cleaned iac and moves freely. Before all of this it was being ran with two plug wires not in right firing order. Fixed that dumb over lol and cleaned everything cause it was horribly built up with carbon, plugs were fouled. I got a new ignition coil I’m putting on tomorrow and o2 sensors. Any advice? Crankshaft sensor maybe? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors? Could this all be because of just needing a new tbps? There’s just so many things that cause the same symptoms my heads about to explode. One more thing. When I do get it started I have to keep on the gas a little or it won’t idle, it stalls. But after 20 minutes of so it will stay running. Also blue/white smoke from tailpipe
Sorry for the late reply, sounds like throttle position sensor issues if your throttle body is clean. I can’t remember for sure, but I seem to remember something like .98 ohms for a throttle body with no accelerator added, you’ll have to look that up. However, mine was racing up and down continually want it warmed up, and that test proved to be right (however, it didn’t fix the issue) I ended up taking mine to an old mechanic he had my truck for three or four weeks and put a new throttle possession sensor on there and now it works fine because I actually gave up. It still aggravates me because I put a new throttle possession center on there and it didn’t fix it and I took it to him and $300 later he put a new one on there and said that was the issue. I would highly suggest using parts from a Ford dealership.
@@geterdone Thanks for the response I actually. I figured the issue out. I had already replaced the throttle body position sensor and did all that good stuff. And I pulled the codes by jumping it with a paper clip and found that there was not enough. Voltage voted out of range is what it said and ended up not being the e. GR So a sensor or the EGR valve it was. The e g r control syllonyd was bad
@@geterdone LOL sorry when I sent that message. I was using voice recognition because I'm driving. And it did not come out right. What I meant was that I pulled the codes and I got a code 31 I think it was and it was E. G. R sensor voltage out of range. Well, it wasn't the EGR sensor and it wasn't the UGR valve. Or the harness. I checked all that turns out it was. The EGR control syllanoid was bad. So that was my problem
Hello John, I have a problem with my truck, just like yours, the problem is that it speeds up and slows down and change the IAC valve but it's still the same and check the tps sensor and it stays at a minimum of 4 ohms and when you turn it it goes up to 11 ohms change a damaged temperature sensor and clean the EGR valve but mine still fails the codes they send me are P0340, P0670, P0520
Sometimes I think these vehicles have a ghost in the machine, I ended up replacing my ignition control module and that solve my problem. I’m not saying you should do that, (could be your computer or a vacuum lake or any number things) maybe find an older mechanic at a private shop that can figure your problem out would be my best guess. I’ve had several issues over the years that were just due to a bad ground or something corroding somewhere in the system that you can’t even tell with your eyeballs. I honestly would like to get rid of my truck but I thought about saving it for one of my grandsons.
I’m having trouble with my 90 f250 running very rich and hard start and backfiring from tail pipe and through intake. I took throttle body off and cleaned everything up, put it back on now it won’t start. Smell a lot of fuel just cranking the engine I did not change the tbsp but I did remove it when I was cleaning everything and there is so much fuel being dumped in that it was wet down in the sensor. Initial timing is set, new map sensor, cleaned iac and moves freely. Before all of this it was being ran with two plug wires not in right firing order. Fixed that dumb over lol and cleaned everything cause it was horribly built up with carbon, plugs were fouled. I got a new ignition coil I’m putting on tomorrow and o2 sensors. Any advice? Crankshaft sensor maybe? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors? Could this all be because of just needing a new tbps? There’s just so many things that cause the same symptoms my heads about to explode. One more thing. When I do get it started I have to keep on the gas a little or it won’t idle, it stalls. But after 20 minutes of so it will stay running. Also blue/white smoke from tailpipe
Sorry for the late reply, sounds like throttle position sensor issues if your throttle body is clean. I can’t remember for sure, but I seem to remember something like .98 ohms for a throttle body with no accelerator added, you’ll have to look that up. However, mine was racing up and down continually want it warmed up, and that test proved to be right (however, it didn’t fix the issue) I ended up taking mine to an old mechanic he had my truck for three or four weeks and put a new throttle possession sensor on there and now it works fine because I actually gave up. It still aggravates me because I put a new throttle possession center on there and it didn’t fix it and I took it to him and $300 later he put a new one on there and said that was the issue. I would highly suggest using parts from a Ford dealership.
@@geterdone Thanks for the response I actually. I figured the issue out. I had already replaced the throttle body position sensor and did all that good stuff. And I pulled the codes by jumping it with a paper clip and found that there was not enough. Voltage voted out of range is what it said and ended up not being the e. GR So a sensor or the EGR valve it was. The e g r control syllonyd was bad
@@geterdone LOL sorry when I sent that message. I was using voice recognition because I'm driving. And it did not come out right. What I meant was that I pulled the codes and I got a code 31 I think it was and it was E. G. R sensor voltage out of range. Well, it wasn't the EGR sensor and it wasn't the UGR valve. Or the harness. I checked all that turns out it was. The EGR control syllanoid was bad. So that was my problem
Hello John, I have a problem with my truck, just like yours, the problem is that it speeds up and slows down and change the IAC valve but it's still the same and check the tps sensor and it stays at a minimum of 4 ohms and when you turn it it goes up to 11 ohms change a damaged temperature sensor and clean the EGR valve but mine still fails the codes they send me are P0340, P0670, P0520
Sometimes I think these vehicles have a ghost in the machine, I ended up replacing my ignition control module and that solve my problem. I’m not saying you should do that, (could be your computer or a vacuum lake or any number things) maybe find an older mechanic at a private shop that can figure your problem out would be my best guess. I’ve had several issues over the years that were just due to a bad ground or something corroding somewhere in the system that you can’t even tell with your eyeballs. I honestly would like to get rid of my truck but I thought about saving it for one of my grandsons.
I can hear that you're engine has that same whining noise that my engine has ...I have a 5.0 l it's the smog pump on mine that wines like crazy
That's the famous ford power steering pump wine, do yourself a favor and do a Saginaw pump swap. Super quiet operation.
Ok get ready to laugh at me if I Install my throttle position sensor backwards would it make my truck idle high I got 1994 f150