How to become a slab god
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- čas přidán 16. 01. 2024
- Little video with some tips and tricks on how to slab climb!! Hope you enjoy the video and good luck to everyone who starts working on slabs more :))
Follow me on instagram: / sofya_yokoyama
Video by Theo Benjamin: / theobenjam - Sport
I blew an entire hour of non stop attempts at a slab move today, it's impressive how your performance plummets as soon as you get frustrated 😐
Omg yes i get sooooo annoyed but it’s also a great exercise for anger management and trying to stay calm ahaha
Also the average slab climb is soooo much more droppable than other terrains so it compounds; you could spend a whole session on it hehe.
"Scheisse" hahaha :D
Very entertaining & useful video! :)
Please post more videos! These are really great, you should seriously consider going the Magnus Midtbo route if you ever want to stop competitively climbing.
Great video! Seeing the blue slab from different angles ( 10:30 ) was very interesting. I really appreciate your analysis of each of the boulders and would love to see more in upcoming sessions. Keep up the good work!
Thank youuu! Yes i really love the analysis side of climbing, will try to make more videos on it!
🗽 Trust your feet! What worst can happen ???
Slip and scrap your knee or break your leg...
Slabs are for brave people.
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Awesome video, that last boulder (the pink one) was extra spicy, nice job and great tips.
Enjoyed that video very much. Much to learn from it too. It's all not super new information, but great visualization! Thank you!
I would btw love to see how you (as a professional climber) warm up :))
Can definitely do a video on that!
Hahaha this was such a great find! Awesome video and I love your personality! It’s sweet. And you’re an god 🫡🫡
Great job on the pink slab especially!
What a nice video ^-^ I enjoyed the vibe alot and the music was a good fit as well. You killed me with the unexpected "scheiße". As a native German speaker I can relate that there is just something more satisfying when cursing in that language haha
love this video as I learn a lot from it .thank you,
I would be interested if the setter for the move you did on 13:20 has been inspired by the famous Font slab "Montée Divine", as the need to place a high foot on bad hands is so simliar :)
Well, ok - this is not such a unique move and can be by pure chance - but it reminded me of it!
i enjoyed this video so much omg. can you do a video on overhang and inclined climbs?
Yaaas for sure!!
Bienvenue à PLO !
Climb climb climb!
Just stumbled upon your channel and I quite like it! Love the energy you bring. I find that my hip flexibility can get in the way of making certain slab moves. Do you do much for mobility/flexibility training?
Thank youu! And yeah hip flexibility is really important in climbing in general and I struggle quite a bit with lower body flexibility. I try to stretch every evening that can vary between 10 to 30 min. I did a video quite early on, on my channel of what stretches I do, but I also watched a lot of follow along youtube videos!
🙂👍
le problème de la dalle c'est d'avoir les bon chaussons pour être à l'aise , (c'est une excuse aussi pour dire que j'y arrive pas :) ).
🗽 Gruezi Sofya, thx for that commenting on these slab problems. What for is the tape on the left hand?
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I had a blister in the middle of my hand so i was just trying to protect it with tape 😅
“scheiße” 😂❤
Merçi, Sofya. Have tried to use the pony tail for balance in the slabs?
Doesn’t help unfortunately ahah
Hi Sofya. Usually when I go bouldering, as a warmup I just do a couple of boulders of each grade starting from the easiest and doing harder and harder boulders, until i get to my project level. But doing it like this I feel like when I get to my project level, i just go through the motions and give the same energy as previous grades, ending up not trying hard enough on it. Maybe because im a bit tired by then or just because it feels like just another boulder and not giving it my all. Do you have any recommendations to warm up enough but dont overdo it and getting my energy up for my project boulders?
This may sound like stupid advice, but don't forget to have fun. I think its easier to feel present (and thus try hard) when we're enjoying and mentally engaging with what we're doing. Its so easy for us to be lax about leaving body away from the wall or crank on jugs because of the wide margin between our warmup and project grades allows us to simply not warm up our minds, not warm up body awareness, and/or not remember we are going climbing because its FUN. Not just climbing 'boring easy stuff' as a means to the grade number go up happy chemical go BRRRR that is project grade climbing.
For me as a mostly ropes climber that means warming up on lead regardless of my intentions to insure I am mentally keyed in, or if that's not possible to throw in some full downclimbs to reduce the 'automatic' nature of easy routes. Making a game of trying to do an easy route without using the biggest, friendliest hold or perhaps trying to use a specific technique that may or may not be relevant or necessary. Maybe climb an easy climb and pretend you're weak as fuck and pick out what move would have been hard for you and think about how you'd have made it easier and then do that. Idk, warm up your fun muscles. Trying hard is its own skill to train, but if you're not all there its gonna be a non-starter.
Louis from Catalyst climbing has some really good tips on warmup drills, you can find them on youtube.
Hii yeah warming up isn’t the easiest ahah
A lot of it is definitely having fun but if you want to project then it’s also a lot on finding a way to awaken the try hard mood.
I do exactly what you do but with also some elastic band exercises, mobility and light hangs which you could maybe include? You feel a bit more ready to start your climbing warm up and i also find that i dont need to climb as much before getting into my hard boulder sesh (maybe like an hour max warm up in total including the non climbing). I just really make sure my fingers and shoulders feel totally warm and then finish my warm up in the hard boulders and trying out the moves bit by bit. Once i feel my body is totally ready then it’s just all about getting into a certain mindset to give it all in the boulder. It’s really not an easy thing to do and most of it is trial and error and seeing what works best for you! But i think by ending your warm up in the hard boulder and feeling the progress in the moves bit by bit helps a lot. And then there comes a moment where you’re like okay i can do this move now and the try hard comes by itself.
But if you also feel like you get tired fast, i wouldn’t say the warm up is the problem but maybe more the power endurance side? I had that problem where i would get pumped so fast in my boulder projects so i focused a bit more on endurance and power endurance for a couple of weeks/ months which also helped tons!
Hope this helps!
@@sofya_yokoyama Wow thanks for the help. I'll try out the exercises and some hard moves at the end, see if it works for me. Indeed i probably need some power endurance. Supercool to get your advice, much
@@colemantrebor6574 Oh yeah looked them up now, they seem interesting indeed! I'll give them a try, thanks for the feedback :)
Is this a liquid chalk only gym? i hate climbing in one but I can reespect how clean they are.
Yes! Im not a fan of liquid chalk though ahah
"please, let's do slabs on ze kilter board"
What comps are in a couple weeks?
This was video last summer, i was talking about the World championships in Bern!
How are your fingers? I see a lot of tape!
All good! Just had a few blisters ahah
I hate slabs 😢
A better reason to climb on them 😝
Ive been climbing for almost 8 months now and am currently climbing 7b/+ and just wanted to say you have been a huge motivation. Also do you have any advice for getting into competitive climbing im currently 14 and looking to get into competing.
No u’re not 7b/+ after 8 months of climbing. I’m sorry to tell u that but you probably climb in a very soft gym or I don’t know but go climb outside and you will see your real grade
I meant 7b/+ on tension board and kilter on my gym set I climb 7a+/7b
If that’s true you’re a fkin talent. Respect bro
@@essentialG thx I'm going to start posting soon
try to look for some local competitions around your area and join it even if you know you are not going to win just to get comfort at the competition structure
Slab vid and no collab with me😢
neeext timeeee in la cuisineee < 3