DIY CoreXY Linear Rails upgrades for Ender 5 Pro, Part 2: Printing at 250mm/s
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 09. 2021
- In my last video, I shared my Ender-5 Pro CoreXY upgrade plan and went through the assembly instructions. Since I used another top frame to build and design the prototype, when I moved all the parts to the Ender-5 Pro, I realized that a few things may be different, so I updated the 3D drawings and the STL files.
In this video, we will configure Marlin firmware to work as a CoreXY printer. If you are not familiar with the firmware configuration, you can watch my previous to know more how to configure Marlin firmware for the Ender 5.
Compiling Marlin firmware for Ender 5 Pro:
• COREXY Linear Rail 3D ...
I also included all the STL files for you to 3D print the parts that you need for this upgrade and the full list of the items you need to buy for this upgrade.
Download link for STEP, STL, and assemble color code:
www.auroratechchannel.com/dow...
* Last update 8/31/2021, Version# v30(Adjusted Corner Block STL)
Browser based link for the 3D drawing(Fusion 360 or solidworks is not required):
a360.co/3sRSKJH
(Version 36)
Affiliate links:
Creality Ender-5 Pro:
www.comgrow.com/collections/c...
Creality REFURBISHED 3D Printers (SAVE up to 50%)
bit.ly/3EGO2UR
Used Ender-3 ($79)
Maybe in bad condition, but if you know how to fix a 3D printer and have spare parts to replace by yourself, that could be an amazing deal:
bit.ly/3LPnzHw
Amazon links for all items you need in this upgrade:
MGN12 Linear Rails with MGN12H slider Block:
2X 350mm ($39.99 pack of 2)
1X 400mm ($24.99 each)
amzn.to/3jmRPxM
GT2 Wheels / Belt:
8X 20 Teeth
amzn.to/3Du0I0w $12.99 (20-T pack of 10)
amzn.to/3BkXFWr $8.98 (20-T pack of 5)
6X Toothless
amzn.to/3mHvIUT $11.99 (Toothless pack of 10)
1X GT2 Timing Belt 5M
amzn.to/2WuDpTa $8.99
Motor Mounts:
2X Nema 17 Stepper Motor Mount
amzn.to/3BnIls4 $14.99 (pack of 6)
Stepper Motors:
2X Nema 17 38mm Stepper Motor
amzn.to/2WS6tES (pack 1,3 or 5)
M5 Screws/Nuts:
6X M5 *60mm
amzn.to/3sTYItB $5.99 (25 pcs)
4X M5 *40mm
2X M5 *35mm
2X M5 *25mm
amzn.to/3BrQRGN $10.99 (assorted 100 pcs, included 3 items above)
2X M5 *15mm
amzn.to/3jmbldI $5.99 (50 pcs)
8X M5 2020 Series T-Nuts
amzn.to/3jmSoro $6.99 (105 pcs)
M3 Screws/Nuts:
2X M3*45mm
2X M3*25mm
8X M3*20mm
10X M3*12mm
16X M3 *8mm
4X M3 HEX 2020 Series Nuts
amzn.to/3kAzooI $24.98 (Assorted 1575 pcs, included all 6 items above)
12X M3 T-Nuts
amzn.to/2Wy7ulb $6.99 (105 pcs)
Washers/Spacers:
11X Washers M5*10mm*1mm
amzn.to/38li9BZ $7.99 (100 pcs)
4X Washers M5x10mmx0.5mm
amzn.to/3mIT24E $7.99 (100 pcs)
3X ABS 10mm Spacer 5.4mm(ID) 9mm(OD) 10mm(Length)
amzn.to/2Ws7nI0 $9.99 (100 pcs)
4X Copper M3x5x35mm Hex Standoff Spacer
amzn.to/3jmbI86 $5.59 (20 pcs)
Follow us on Twitter:
/ aurora_lung - Věda a technologie
And by the way, your explanation of the relation between speed and acceleration was great. 5-Stars
This is fantastic! Thanks! what a great experiment, very competently carried out.
You guys rock!!! Planning this conversion for the ender 5 plus,
This is what i'm waiting for!!
thank youu!
great video as always!
Excellent videos! Thank you, thinking of doing something similar with my Ender 5 Plus.
Good troubleshooting. Interesting and you’re a good presenter. Thanks 👍
Fantastic video, I look forward to your next one. 😊
I made a similar setup. At higher speed, the vibrations can be issue on frames without reinforcement. Be sure to add T or L brackets on sides, etc to make the frame stiffer. Same goes to the bed supports. Making the frame heavier at the bottom or bolting to heavy table will help.
Belts must be tight and wrap around as much as possible to stepper motor driving pulley to maximize grip. 10mm wide belts are recommended for bigger setups.
I really like this mod, specially how you took a lot of weight just using the linear rail instead of the 2020 extrusion plus linear rail. Im going to use this mod on an ender 5+ except that I will have to modify it a bit since I want to use a dragonfly + orbiter
Wow pure genius! Hope your family is proud :D
Great video. I wonder if you could switch to direct drive and use klipper input shaping to cancel any ringing. You could also drop retraction settings, which should improve retraction
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Converted mine today using this design. I love it! Thought the printed post part might not be stiff enough but they are stiff to be part of the frame. Couple of pain points.
Print list does not contain all parts as the fusion 360 design. X and y endstops and x carriage holes for endstop are missing in individual files.
X carriage mount holes for hotend is probably off by 3mm. Would be great to have chamfer for all screw like the lower left one.
60mm m5 is a bit oversize. 55mm for back row and 45mm for front two would have been best. Would at least reduce the extra stick out.
At least my motor mount couldn't fit m5, it needed m4 screws.
X endstop wires is rubbing with the belts. I made a standoff to keep it high. Thanks to your f360 videos.
2.5m belt for each side is bit high. I used around 2 meters for each axis and still left enough for adjustment like 10cm.
In f360 file. The two post at the back are 21mm apart on one side whereas 31mm apart on the other. Not sure why that's the case. I kept mine at 31mm apart for both and seems work fine. Would be good if you can mention the motor mount distance and rough height.
Great project!
Thanks for sharing :-)
Very nice video, next would be hopefully klipper with pressure advance and some of those tricks to get a 40 min good benchie.
Great Mod! I am planning to do this for my 5plus =D With Klipper and a bigger nozzel it should be a beast =D
Love the idea, and great execution! It's odd seeing that stock Creality extruder and hotend pushed to its limits :) Do you think the direct drive configuration on top of a linear rail will last long? Can you redesign it to use an aluminum extrusion instead?
Hey Aurora, Thanks for the great video as always. Could you make another video showing us the final result after adjusting the jerk ? Also have you considered going with Kilpper?, i hear alot of good things about it.
I would suggest using a V6 bullseye upgrade print, swapping to a dragon HF hotend, i used winsinn for a thermister and soldered it inline using the old cables as extensions, and will shorltly being doing something similar with the winsinn 50w heater cartridge. I do also run the tiny machines build firmware on my printer so i can go up to 300c
Awesome video. I wonder how a high flow all metal hotend would fare. Pit a name brand against a clone.
nice project!
Its a nice design. After a year of using this design, I am dismantling it to make way for zero g mercury 1.1. I have replaced my belts twice by now, it keep going out of wac for some reason.
you can use the orbiter extruder for direct drive extruder , cuase it is light as hell (140g) all up ready to run , just thought i'd mention it
I learn so much from your videos!!! Thank you!
I am new to 3D printing and thinking about getting the Ender 5 Pro. However the single Z troubles me. Would you be interested in making a dual Z mod for the Ender 5 Pro?
Maybe the electronics box could be moved back in the frame and the same existing Z system could be replicated and installed for the front?
Thanks so much for considering this mod!
You are so smart!
brilliance
Okay, here is my thumb up before watching.
Get a Bondtech CHT nozzle and it'll do so much better. Would love to see a follow-up video on it.
Now that you've has the Ender 5 S1 for a while, will you consider doing a Core XY conversion with the linear rails for that printer as well? I'd be very interested in how much of the process crosses over to the newer printer
Impressive
You should throw a spider hot end on there and install klipper and see how fast it goes
Very cool. Such a good video. Research, preparation, execution, presentation-- Fan-Tas-Tic.
But...in my opinion... the Ender 5 does not have a speed problem. It has an execution problem. It can print fast out of the box but not in good quality. It can print in very good quality out of the box but not fast.
You improved the control software and then you improved the motion accuracy and maybe speed. But as you go beyond 80mm/sec your quality still suffers. I am keen to see your next video.
Any chance I can get your Cura or Prusa Slicer settings for the Ender 5??
Very Impressed - Might even try it out myself. Sure it's no Voron 2.4 or Rat Rig CoreXY but since I'm already upgrading my old Ender 5 Pro right now might be a great winter project. Will have to debate it I want a Resin printer more before doing this.
I got a resin printer but I always go back to my FDM printer. Yea the quality is alot better on the resin printer and faster I just enjoy printing and messing with the FDM printer. Good luck with your decision:)
I’m wondering is there any other reason for this upgrade besides speed? I have just gotten the Sonic pad and if it prints faster, would this upgrade be worth it or would keeping stock suffice? If it is worth it I may also do the linear rail upgrade for my Ender 3 S1 Plus
I love this. Now I dont have to choose between the corexy and linear rail. But can I use the same STL's on my Ender 5 Plus? Also what size rails do I need because it is so much bigger? Thank you!
Yes, I think that should work, but I have no idea about the size as I don't have an Ender-5 Plus, you need to measure by yourself, make sure the rails are long enough for the print head to reach all 4 corners of the print bed but not too long as you still need to install the corner mounts for the wheels.
Definitely interesting. I wonder if you would get any improvement using a 3d printed fan shroud such as the Satana, Hero Me, or Bullseye. I also wonder what would happen if you used a different hotend such the one used on the Voron XY printer. I was looking for a cheaper version to the Voron, but this is not it. Yet. The Voron 2.4 at $2000.00 is just way too expensive. Anyway, this was a good try.
I used Satsana with dragon and orbitor 1.5 with this mod. Works fine.
Me pregunto como sería con la sonic pad y estas actualizaciones
I am so blown away little one. I use Fusion for model train parts but the Core XY design is nuts. You Shame me. But I still had a question. I saw an Ender 7 today for $300 and thought wow what a deal. But them I see Tiny Machines selling a $200 Axis Upgrade Kit.????? Now you think your Ender 5 is approaching Ender 7 caliber. Anf for Only $100 plus time. No I have no idea what to look into doing. Do you have any thoughts on the Ender 7 for $300 ??? Thank You all so much for posting these informative videos. Dennis
The Ender 7 was discontinued, $300 clearance price seems like a good deal :)
you might want to setup Linear Advance in your FW to get nicer corners and better overall print quality. Even better get a RPi4 and setup Klipper... also move to a HF hotend like a Volcano or Mosquito. Stock Creality is a joke for fast printing same as their extruder. And I wouldn`t go near 260C on that PTFE lined extruder, even with the Capricorn tube.
Since it looks like it was a fairly stock Ender5 Pro when she started, I'm not sure that she CAN enable Linear Advance in the firmware. As I understand it, with the stock stepper drivers, LA isn't supported (and I am very possibly just wrong about that). But Klipper ... well that seems like it might be a great combination.
@@kirkgleason5627 the problem is not the type of stepper drivers, but how they are hardwired to the board.
In order to enable linear advance in Marlin,, the TMC 2208 drivers need to be running in UART mode, but inexplicably Creality decided to keep them in standalone mode.
Since they're not easily replaceable, a hardware mod to enable UART is next to impossible with the stock Creality board.
Can this be done on the sv05?
Hey aurora. İ know this video has been 1 year again but i need your help. İ want to mak this mod to my ender 5 pro. Using it with sonic pad. Where can i find the right settings for sonic pad with corexyz settings? İ hope you will answer so i can start with the mod.
I think mercury one zeroG best coreXY mod for ender 5
Awesome mod.
Have you thought about adding FluiddPi and Klipper to this?
Would be interesting to see you use Input Shaper for tuning your build.
I'm new to all this, very impressed with her and hoping to adapt this for an ender 5 plus. I currently have octopi setup for a few days and just learning about Klipper and everything it opens but would add for her to try a new parts cooler, I did the hero me gen5 with 2x 4020 (eventually want to try and quiet everything down lol) and saw a big improvement in quality for situations that needed more cooling, and i could only imagine that printing at 5 times? stock speed might need a better cooler lol
Will this work on an sv05?
Has anybody mounted a hemera with this core xy upgrade? thx
Hey Aurora Tech, big thanks for your videos, i´m trying to rebuild your upgrade but the hotend frontplat haves a problem there are no holes to hold the hotend... is there a newer version with holes in it? if i use the two holes in the Block my hotend is to deep. sry for my bad english i`m from Germany. I hope you understand me and can help.
One more Thing i'm Missing the drillholes For the X- Endstop :(
There are also No Holmes For the hotend Fans and Cover ?
Download the STL files, the "X Front Plate v30a 1X.STL" has 2 holes for the hotend fan cover.
Yes, I use a 2.5mm drill to drill a small hole, then use one M3 screw to secure it after I put everything together.
I just post an updated version v36 (instead of V31):
a360.co/3sRSKJH
Great video. Youre much better than some adults here on youtube. Now, go build a Voron 2.4.
Ender 5 Pro or Ender 3 S1? Which is better overall?
Ender 5 Pro is a nice printer, but it's a bit old, for almost the same price, I would buy the latest Ender-3 S1 with new features, color screen, filament sensor, bed leveling, direct drive...
@@AuroraTech thanks for your insight❤️
Do you live in America?
Yes, I live in Danville, California!
Yeah this is way too hard for me