ANNULAR CUTTERS make BUSHINGS & SPACERS vevor
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- čas přidán 15. 04. 2023
- This is a demonstration on various uses for ANNULAR CUTTERS.
Also, watch this related video -- "WHAT ARE ANNULAR CUTTERS? vevor #858 tubalcain"
• WHAT ARE ANNULAR CUTTE...
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Vevor annular cutter set - ---- s.vevor.com/bfQbdx
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#vevor#magneticdrill#Vevormagneticdrillpress#annularcutterset#annular - Věda a technologie
Lyle with the ER collet adaptor you have not assembled it correctly. You need to take it apart to insert the collet into the cap. There is a special offset spring washer in the cap that needs to fit into the groove in the collet. It is there so that when you loosen it to remove the cutter / drill, it will eject the collet from the holder. You will need to place the collet in at a slight angle until it click into place, when the collet is fitted correctly the face of the collet and nut will be flush. When you showed it there was at least 1/8 " recess between the two. The shallow taper on the collet makes then really lock into place, a but like a Morse Taper, so the groove in the collet and the offset washer in the cap acts as an ejector to pull the collet out. Hope this helps. Regards from Australia.
Came to say the same thing.
lol...had the same problem
I'm sure he knows what he's doing...
I've seen a lot of people having trouble with that off-center part of the collet nut, Some even turn it out with a lathe thinking it's a manufacturing defect. 😰
@@51-FS Mr. Pete got this wrong. Dave is correct on how ER collet chuck nuts work.
Mr. Pete...please read this. I believe your issue with the ER collet not screwing on is this - the collet is not fully snapped into the collet nut, ie. snapped in flush with the face of the nut...thereby preventing the nut from screwing on. Don't ask me how I know. Thanks for all your inspiring machining videos !!
Thank you, several other people mentioned this. I had these callouts for years and never used them, or even looked at them until I was making a video.
@@mrpete222 You're the best ! Thanks again for all of your training and educational videos.
Correct. The collet must be first snapped into the nut by tilting it a little and pressing together. Then, and only then you can screw on the nut part. I love them, I can use three at one time, one in the headstock, one in the tail stock and a third in the milling machine. They get a phenomenal grip.
And are very easy to use. Joss, Cofk Ireland.
Used them for punching holes in heat treated truck frames, crushing and screening plants and such. Custom cutters are available but the price jumps up quite a bit. With a good mag drill, I even fixed egg shaped holes to larger round holes. Far cheaper than a new frame rail.
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Pete, I bought a 1979 Millport (BP clone) for $400, it came with a box full of annular cutters. I've recently started using them, work like a charm!!
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Considering what those cutters cost you almost got your mill free!
That’s the perfect rpm main thing I noticed is you were a little light on the feed pressure they like to be feed hard light cut tend to blunt them quick
And will help with the surface finish and tolerance
Great video! Using an annular cutter for an end mill is a good way to have these explode and send shrapnel flying. These cannot be side loaded. I think the greatest benefit is that they plunge cut accurately, like an end mill can, as compared to a conventional twist drill that requires a center. Say if you are drilling next to a previously bored hole, an annular cutter will not walk to that hole's established center. They also come in very large sizes, say 4in plus, that are much more cost effective over conventional drill bits that would normally be run in large radial arm drill presses and last a lot longer compared to hole saws. To run an annular cutter in a vertical mill you only need a 3/4inch collet in an ER set.
You had a poor finish due to chip binding on a tooth in non ferrous. It would be best to mist the work with a coolant and clear the chips frequently, I just spray a bit of simple green (lots of soap in it) instead of oil. You would've had a better finish running dry and pulling chips periodically. Simple green also gives me a mirror finish in boring and prevents loading the carbide. I also have had more trouble with the tailstock taper coming loose in my atlas craftsman (12in swing mt3 iirc?) than the chuck losing grip of the cutter bit. Since the work I do is so oversize (castings) tend to use the mill with a 3/4in ER40 collet holder and a troyke compound rotary table to bore accurate work over the lathe.
Thank you for a very informative comment
Seems like a great tool to have in the arsenal! I got a good deal on a mag drill and hadn't understood the cutters required for use with it, but your videos on annular cutters have shown me what they are and how they work, and opened my eyes to the possibilities they provide.
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That looked fun Lisle. I had not considered that use for a annular cutter. Thanks for the tip. Excellent video
Thanks for the video Mr.Pete. Keep them coming!!
Good Morning Mr Pete!!!
The Tennessee Mole Man
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Thanks for the detailed demonstration. Always love to see you making chips, Mr. Pete!
I needed a new spider for a vintage differential and used an annular cutter and dividing head to rough out the 4 legs , I then cut away the scrap and turned to final dimensions between centres, it worked great
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Always a good day when the "skeletal remains" of Mr. Pete post a video. Plus, I learned about leaded steel. Thanks for the video.
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These annular cutters are similar to hole saws and I discovered an interesting use for a hole saw if you like to shoot traditional muzzleloaders. Take a 1 1/4" hole saw and grind the teeth off. Next, bevel the I.D. and the O.D. so the edge is sharp like a leather punch. Put it in your drill press and fold up your patch material many times and lay it on a block of wood. Turn the drill press on and now you can cut hundreds of perfectly sized muzzleloader patches in about 30 minutes. It works like a charm! Just for the record, this method is not my idea. I just heard about it somewhere.
That sounds amazing. I hope some muzzleloaders are watching this video and reading a comment.
What is funny is that I have never shot a gun. I have fired many thousands of them during my time as a gunsmith, but I have never shot one. Came close once, I was working on a Marlin lever action in 32 rim fire. I had pulled the firing pin because I was working on a feeding issue and wanted to insure that the gun would not fire. So while working the action the extractor must have hit a weak spot on the cartridge, it went off (rimfire slam fire). The bullet went through a wall and ended up in the box of an H&R Trapdoor Springfield, it was stopped by the foam packing about 1 inch away from the gun. So that is the closest I have ever come to shooting a gun.
@@oldfarthacks So these guns were employees of yours' and you terminated their employment?
@@tom87patehate to be a party pooper, but surely the man’s point is… you fire a gun, you shoot an arrow, but never fire an arrow nor shoot a gun. Les in UK
@@leslieaustin151 Then why is it called a trap shoot, a skeet shoot, a turkey shoot, a shooting match, a shooting range, shoot-out at the O.K. Corral, etc.
I'm liking those! The fact that they're not sized in surrender units is nice too.
I have a couple of cast iron discs here. I think I'm going to try the annular cutter on to get a hole started for boring out for a thread. I have a special back plate I need to make for my newly acquired B & S dividing head. Thanks for sharing, Ken
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I have some of these cutters that came with a magnetic base drill I bought. I sold the drill and forgot about the cutters and still have them. They even have a pilot pin for the center to line up on a small hole. They are primarily used for cutting holes in plate or shapes where you can't get the part on a machine. I do remember seeing pictures where the drill base was clamped around a steel pipe with a chain and cutting holes in the side of the pipe. It was expensive and heavy and if used horizontally had to be supported in case the electromagnet released.
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Back in the day those where known as Roto broach they came with a small mag base drill that had a coolant tank I guess it used water soluble are fab shop used them wish are shop did never new they were so handy thanks mr Pete
While I Haven't invested in a Mag-Drill and a set of Annular Cutters (YET), I Have on Many Occasions used a plain old Hole Saw for boring out bushings and spacers while saving the Slug for other projects instead of watching it all come out as Chips with a drill bit.
You can't feed them as fast and with no flutes you have to retract the hole saw more often to remove the chip build up, but they're a Fraction the Cost and get the job done.
The finish is usually Rough and not precisely sized, requiring finish boring for most jobs, but the thinner wall of the hole-saw compared to the Annular Cutters leaves a Bigger Plug to work with saving More Material for other pieces.
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another use for annular cutter: I manufacture "Y" fittings used aero application. I use annular cutters, fitted with drill bits, on multi spindle CNC to machine both OD & ID of the 3 "legs" in one go.
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My employer didn't want to purchase the Jancy Slugger mag drill and cutters when they first came out because he didn't think they would be useful and the employees would just destroy it. I told him I would buy it and cut the holes with it. We arranged a per hole cost depending on size and thickness. I would turn in the slugs from the holes drilled and paid it off in one year. We had several forklift with fork positioning attachments that used bolt on forks. Replacement forks cost around $1,100 each. We could buy a pair of regular forks for $400 at that time, cut off the hooks on back and cut the bolt holes using the old fork as a templet. Forks are fairly hard but the cutters went through them. The Jancy Slugger drill has a coolant system that flows coolant into the inside of the cutter.
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Thank you Mr. Pete.👍👍👍
Nice review of the cutters.
😎👍👍 thankyou mr.pete, great cutters
It looks like the ER collet isn't properly installed in the nut.
For anyone that isn't aware, an ER collet has to be snapped into the eccentric ring of the nut before it is screwed onto the holder.
A set is on my wish list!
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Good one Lyle !!
Great work dude.
Thanks Lyle. I wonder if they make them slightly under size so you can finish the ID with a reamer or a boring bar. Great for saving material; that's for sure.
Will see what happen with the magnetic drill.Thank you mrpete.
A fast way to get the hole near to the size you want to bore. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
You got that right!
Really like to see the cutter working on the brass, Tubalcain. Love the chips, something about the red metals, too bad the finish was rough.
I always enjoy your videos ... Thanks for sharing ... Stay safe and well ...
Nice tools! Run-out on that drill chuck could be 0.017". You can see the chuck wiggling in the video, if you watch carefully. Nice amount of clearance for a spacer or washer though. Overall, those things are great and I'd love to see the finish if they were held in a proper collet. I bet it would be significantly better.
Thanks for the tips!
Great Stuff Sir......
Thanks for sharing 👍
I had to finish machining my MT3 collet nut. They left a little Ridge where the thread meets the taper that squeezes the collet.
mr pete i use these annular cutters all the time to make spacers but i use the 3 inch versions of the cutter and drill then leave it in the lathe then part it off leaving the slug on the stock
Good idea, I need to try that. Never thought of it.
Get video, as usual! Thank you.
I’ve used them plenty. Good idea to keep the rpm down, sharpening is expensive if you don’t have a cutter grinder.
The margins have no radial clearance, so I don’t think they can be used as milling cutters.
Thanks for sharing
Sometimes on the collets you have to take them out of there holder. snap the Collects into the nut, and then thigh it on. Let me know if that works any better.
Thanks again
I see annular cutters as a nice alternative to having to use multiple drill bits to get to a hole size before using a boring bar to get to the exact size needed.
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⚠⚠⚠Hi Mr Pete you need to install the collet in the nut before you thread the nut on the holder and the collet will be almost flush with the nut and should not fall out but some do .JM And the ER collet works good on those cutters . hope this fix's the problem
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With the ER32 colletts, They have to be clipped into the collett nut then the nut screwed onto the adapter
From experience with annular cutters/slugger bits do not put side load on them. aThey smash into little pieces when not drilling straight. The sides are designed to keep the hole for evacuating the chips.
Every time I've seen these annular cutters, they included lubricant flow through the cutter. Of course most were in CNCs. It also seems you needed to adjust feeds and speeds for them. Normally they seem to be pretty good at getting clean bores without chatter.But what do I know?
Hi mr Pete you have to put the collet in the nut first, in kind of angle
Don't you have to insert the ER Collet into the nut 1st then screw it onto it's chuck ?
Should be flush with the front face of the nut I think.
I use annular cutters a lot in my big drill press and the holes are always exactly on size and perfectly round.
I think your holes turned out oversize because the force of the chuck jaws is compressing the ring as the cutter goes trough. When you take it out of the chuck the metal relaxes and the hole gets a tiny bit bigger.
The holes are probably not perfectly round as well because of the 3 jaws applying pressure 120 degrees apart. This will also be the cause of the bad surface finish.
Thanks
Good test. These cutters are not self- centering, especially on a lathe. I’m sure you’d get a much better finish and more accurate hole on a Bridgeport with its rigid spindle.
They work better held in a proper arbor in my experience. I have used up to 64mm diameter on my lathe.
Hey Mr Pete, I can tell you a story about a place I worked in Brooklyn NY called Linda Tool And Die in Red hook, the owner came out to the shop with a Mag-Drill. Puts the thing on an I beam right above the machine I was working on drills his hole then unplugged the drill while it was still on the I beam. Thing came crashing down 2 ft away from me. I didn't like the guy so I wished I was hit on my foot. Workman's comp would have been nice for a few months. That the only time I ever wished I got hurt
lol . Kind of funny, but scary as heck.
Linda Tool & Die manufactured many machine parts and tooling for Tubular Textile Machinery in Lexington, N. C. where I worked as a manufacturing engineer for the company in the nineties. Tube-Tex was taken private after I retired and now goes by another name. I made some major cost saving changes in Linda’s parts while I was there.
I believe annular cutters can’t be used for milling for the same reason you can not use the side of a drill bit as a milling cutter. Interesting video as always, thank you for entertaining us and offering an alternative to the evil TV !!!
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Would a much slower feed rate on the brass give you a better finish? I can see my bank balance just got depleted somewhat...
My boss bought the vevor mag drill last year,it came whith a bunch cutter. Paid 600$cdn for it. The cutters are doing fine. I think the warranty on the drill was 30 days or 30 holes. The thing was crusty to start with and everytthing was loose after 30/40 holes. I change the main bearing only to discover it was the bearing seat that got bigger. Vevor cutter ok, don't get the drill.
Too late, I just got one on Friday
@@mrpete222 I hope you are lucky and the thing make at least 10x more holes than the one we got.
They aren't designed for milling but if you take light cuts you will need to save some distance to improve the finish with another tool most likely fly cutter . That's what I found .
those rings in the bore appear to be from where you stopped to lube. Also that ER32, the collar needs to be set into the nut before you put it in the holder, and it appears you have not done that. Some won't set in the holder, some are loose and will seat upon tightening.
Thanks
Hi Mr. Pete ! I am sure you know this ...the oversize hole produced by the cutters is most likely (or could be) caused by your tailstock being out of alignment...Too low from wear on the tailstock or off center front to back by .008 would explain the .016 oversize. I am not saying you were blaming the cutters....just speculating on cause an effect.....Great review...I WANT A SET OF THOSE CUTTERS ! Thanks, Mark
You are probably correct, I should try the extreme experiment on the milling machine to see if there’s a difference
What do you use for cutting oil?
When you hold a bit still and rotate the work do you turn the work counter clock wise or clockwise?
Thanks!
Mr. Pete - until now I was unaware that annular cutters were invented by the late Doug Hougen of Michigan. Hougen Manufacturing is still going; the company site tells that Doug held some 400 patents on his ideas. It appears that he came up with the trade name Rotabroach so often used with these devices.
Thank you for that information I will look up a few of his pattents
As usual an informative video.
Q: Would it be possible to manufacture a screw on tang to Your Morse taper blank?
It looks like it’s a thread in the end!
Yes, I was going to do that if it slipped
Good demo video Mr.Pete. I wonder if "chip loading" had anything to do with the bad finish in brass? The flutes seem pretty shallow and may have a hard time evacuating the chips? Just a thought.
Could be
Brass is too soft.
Hello Lyle, just a note, my Jancy Slugger Mag Drill runs at 440 rpm, and is rated for up to 1 3/8" cutters on steel......I do not know the HP, but assume it is not much....for aluminum, you should be able to run forever and ever in aluminum at that rate.....by the way, I drill a lot of 6061 T6 aluminum.....hope this helps, Paul
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I have many annular cutters in my collection. They are great for cutting larger holes. ON Another Note! Mr. Pete--- What is a Bridgeport Scribe Master? What is it used for? Ever even heard of it?
No, I never heard of it
that ER collet isn't seated properly in the collet nut. it has an eccentric slot that you have to pre-seat the collet in so it's flush with the end before inserting the tool. just wiggle it and press it all the way to the bottom til it's seated. (edit: looks like about 20 other people already said this)
Thank you Lyle. I have steered away from these cutters since I have no previous experience with them. You have opened new options for me. I assume that VEVOR is fairly low end in the tooling category, but hobby use may make the brand quite viable.
I saw that you are selling a Cleveland extended reach T handle tap wrench on PeteBay. I have long desired that tool and probably the smaller size more as well. Just hours prior to seeing your PeteBay post I scored a Craigslist purchase. I got the Greenfield clone and 2 Starrett smaller versions (one brand new , in the box) and about 45 taps for $45. Only about 5 of the taps have been used and only 2 of them were less than pristine sharp. I have immediate need for 50% of the tap sizes. Every tap is premium USA brands and the larger taps are in the $100 individual piece price range. I was super excited. The seller was a very nice man and we had a great chat.
My wife didn't understand why I wanted a "road trip" while visiting my son's family for a week long home addition project. But I got a two hour drive with some his short people, a surprise stop for ice cream, and a boost for my hobby machine shop. The seller was wearing a company logo shirt from a fellow NEC license exam prep class student's company that I took in the late 70's with the founder of that company. The seller lives 4 hours from my home, so the link was not super likely. I haven't seen my former classmate in decades. He went on to build a very successful company. I have heard that he may have over 100 electricians now, and I believe he is fully retired with his son running the business. I got my license as well, but I wound up with a career is an industrial electrician and maintenance supervisor. The Craigslist score, a tie to my youthful and career, and a nice outing with youthful grands made for a fun afternoon.
I will keep watching your videos
Wow, that was quite a score. And you made a day out of it and had fun.
Lyle,
It looks to me like the collet is not inserted into the nut properly (3:34). The ER collets have to have the collet snapped into the nut before you screw it on to the adapter.
Mark
i think the rigidity is the finish issue. there is a lot of metal hanging off that tailstock. I am sure the same material on a short arbor on a mill it would have far better finish, and not allow chips to roll under
Yes
Nice video master Pete, do you have a trick to hold large work in a small lathe chuck . . say 4 inch lathe chuck because I can't afford a larger one. Thank you
No, other than reversing the jaws
your collet holder- looks like an ER type, where you should clip the collet into the nut before screwing the nut into the holder, if there is a sort of groove around the nose of the collet, that clips into the nut before putting the nut on.
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nice holes!!!
Hi! You told that you cannot use that ER chuck, because it doesn`t go tight. Try to put the ER collet into a "MTB-hat" and then you can get it tight..? And it is not a good idea to use annual cutter as milling purpose, it may damages the bearings from drill, (not lathe`s).. (sorry my funny English) 😅
They work better with the pin to keep them from drifting.
I don’t know if anybody responded to this 3:32 but it doesn’t seem like the Collett is snapped on to the ring
'2'' diameter leaded steel' at 8:38 What is leaded steel? Thanks.
Never mind, just Googled it.
Never new it existed. Thanks again for everything.
Not a bidder, we know that you got a real steal/deal at those auctions!
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Could those annular cutters be used on angle to cut miters on steel tubes?
I do not think so
in England we call the rotor broches' .
Sure is easier than trepanning!
certainly better than a inch and a half drill bit. A handy tool to have.
I think you put the oil on the wrong side of the drill because oil drains out and when you put oil on the other side the oil runs in and the lines get into the finished piece because you cut the pressure from the drilling while turning .
I imagine you would get a much nicer finish if you used power feed?
The quality (expensive) drills are beautifully sharp and require very little horse power in my experience.
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The salvaged plug material appeals to the cheapskate in me.
I throw them away
I never throw anything away, well at least until it get to a size where Joe Pie can't find a way to make a part out of it.
The cutter that cut the brass seemed to have one tooth that stuck out farther than the rest, please measure all of the teeth on that cutter. If you use a pilot hole you can drill from both sides and drill double the depth. Ron W4BIN
The Er 32 collet is not set into the collar before you assembled it.
Watch you tube videos on er 32 collet assembly.
I’m a little smarter. Thank you professor.
Brass likes zero rake tooling. Might get a better finish if you take a diamond hone to the cutting edge. But then they are ruined for steel. I have a modified drill set just for brass. Stops the bits from grabbing.
You need to snap the collet into the collet nut before you insert it into the collet chuck. You made the same mistake on the drill sharpener only the collets are reversed. I can't believe no one mentioned it before. Watch a video on er collets for a visual explanation.
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Thanks Lyle.
Did you buy Chance watch Tim Hunkin & Rex Gerard on the British TV show "The Secret Life of Machines" ??
All of his Videos and His new Series "The Secret Life of Components" are now On You Tube.
I think He is a bit older. But You and Him would work great with Fabricating Festinating Stuff..
He has built 2 Arcades, all with Home Made Machines.... He's a Hoot to watch, Just like You Are....
Mike M.
Yes, I have watched them many times. And he has a very smart and clever man. Very entertaining also.
When you see someone else do a good video, bingo, Pete does the same.
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Mr. Pete, these annular cutters are supposed to be engaged and run in under pressure without letting up. Pecking is the wrong way to use this type of cutter.
I realize that, but I have no other way of getting the oil down to the cutting edge
@@mrpete222 Try mineral spirits or paint thinner in a spray bottle. Spray liberally on steel or aluminum while applying steady cutting pressure. The light lubrication flushes up the chips and keeps the cutter cool.
Shattered an annular cutter yesterday, using a magpress drill upside down when the power cut out.
Drill fell, cutter stayed in the hole, and they're not cheap!
Luckily it was only a few inches off the floor otherwise it would have been the drill too.
Wow, scary
you haven't got the nut on proplyd son clip it in the nus before securing it on , I think you puling our leg LOL .
Did you figure out your issue with the ER collet?
There are comments below about how to use them.
Just snap the collet into the nut before you screw it on the holder.
Joe
Thanks, several people mentioned that
@ the 4:38 mark , I don't think "painful for you" is the issue I myself am concerned that it will be _----------,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,-;----------------------------------------------Boring ! to lame? LOL
I suppose for really rough gouging, they're ok, but tools that cut so far off their mark are pretty useless to me. Drill bits and boring bars seem to offer more advantages. You actually can drill as deep as you want with bits you can buy, and then ream or bore to the nearest tenth. Why waste the time and money on these since for any accurate application you'll still have to ream or bore? I have a couple of them and have never found a use. They sure are pretty though.
thinking some of the poor finish on brass was due to the peck drilling instead of continuous feed.......?????
You are probably correct. But I’m still learning. How do use these things
I [played the video from 7:01 at quarter speed and there looks to be something odd about the way the cut starts, almost as if one tooth is proud of the others. Sounds like you might be able to get a job as a Darth Vader stand-in too.