Amazing videos. Speaking as a Norwegian (a country where it gets proper cold) expat, I feel we're (sorry) insulated from best practices in this country - mostly. Your company shows there's hope still! You should be in charge of certifying who gets to build houses here.
Also good to see Sustainability Victoria chuck some funds to you. Their home guide for sustainability is good but could do with some extra efficiency matrix tricks and video links (look forward to the 2nd edition of that)! If you are after a topic SV did a project looking at retrofit cavity walll insulation (blown in). I did my house after reading their reports and very happy with results. A shame funding goes to solar panels and not retrofitting wall cavities (much cheaper) and lasts longer than solar panels.
I think having only 90mm of insulation below equipment platforms in the roof is not an issue, as long the area is actually insulated. It's no different from what you suggest at the edges of the roof, which add up to a much larger area. The main thing is to ensure that the insulation coverage is complete. I'd say the same about the edges of cathedral ceilings, if the area is relatively small. Having said that, I think these videos are excellent and I wish more builders knew this stuff.
Awesome content guys - In reference to: 13:09 Ceiling insulation at the eave, around the perimeter. Where in the BCA can is the air gap requirements. I'm trying to educate my builder ;)
Great video! I just wish that more builders and building surveyors mandated this level of installation detail as a standard. And out of curiosity, why not slice the batt for the electrical cables as is done for the plumbing? It would make more sense to slice to allow the cable to be fished through for future changes. Also, do you still need the sarking ventilation clearance if using anticon insulation blanket. Cant wait to see how you tackle light, gpo & plumbing fitoff penetrations and maintain minimum clearance and air barrier. (All to often I'll see a sparky come along and rip out a few handfuls of insulation to put in his/ her light/ gpo point. 🙁)
@@ecoevo Ah, good answer. I was wondering the same thing. But if the cable is going to pass behind the insulation, then why bother running it through the studs at all? Why not just run the cable around the back of the studs, using some kind of clip to hold it in place? Seems much simpler to me. Am I missing something? I'm looking forward to your video on this topic.
Excellent. I was wondering about best technique for the edge of the roof where the batt is too thick. Also the door tape I bought and grabbed from your mailbox a couple of weeks ago works a treat in my door thanks!
Would be keen on Retrofit options, especially for weatherboard construction houses. What is the right product to insulate stud walls? Say if weatherboards can be removed and replaced, leaving the internal wall linings in place.
Great video, I just discovered you guys after buying my first house and loving the information. You mention eave vents at the end, I'd never heard of them(I'm not too knowledgeable on this stuff) and can also say I don't think I've ever seen them installed on any house either! Is there another way that get the ventilation to occur with a vent?
We have 20mm ceiling battens screwed to the bottom of our trusses that the pasterboard will be attached to. I am wondering how to fill this gap so the there is no gap between the fibreglass insulation and the gyprock and I am thinking I will add loosefill cellulose insulation on top of the plasterboard and then add the fibreglass insulation on top of this. Does this sound ok.
Awesome, I am a keen observer when it comes to installing batts as I have designed and built out own home. I placed R6 in our ceilings and am now placing another layer of R4 over the top, all internal walls have R2.7 for 90mm stud walls with hebel power panels on the outside. Its getting hotter. Question, what is an effective exhaust venting method for a tin corrie roof, whirly birds seem ineffective, what others have a good lifetime and work over a larger area?
I’m glad you like our videos. Ridge vents are the most effective with eave ventilation, but they can clog up over time. There are also mechanical fans that trigger with humidity, which are pretty effective.
What are your thoughts on installing two layers of say R3.5 ceiling insulation. One layer between the ceiling joists, and the second layer cross-ways over the top of the first layer to reduce thermal bridging?
For thermal performance, it's a great solution. However, considerations on safety access in the future should also be considered. it is not easy to judge where one can set foot on (where are the joists) if the insulations are installed in that fashion.
Certified and accredited installers know all this, and the rest don’t mainly know all of this , you need to get Csr Princapal contractors or better still 80% of installers need to do a accredited insulation course mandatory!!! that explains the thermal envelopes Not to mention that bulk insulation create a condensation and breeds mould growth, based on a envelope that doesn’t have a complete thermal seal and a moisture barrier, air sealed is a must, insulation batts are not the answer . Period !! 1800 tech is Still been promoted to this day !! Nanotechnology, thermal coatings and air sealing is the future, tampons are not,
They didn't use batts in 1800, they left houses nice and leaky because coal and timber were cheap and available. You aren't wrong though - batts w/o air barriers are pointless
Amazing videos. Speaking as a Norwegian (a country where it gets proper cold) expat, I feel we're (sorry) insulated from best practices in this country - mostly. Your company shows there's hope still! You should be in charge of certifying who gets to build houses here.
Das is goode, Jorgen!
A very good, easy to understand video. Well worth watching 👍
Also good to see Sustainability Victoria chuck some funds to you. Their home guide for sustainability is good but could do with some extra efficiency matrix tricks and video links (look forward to the 2nd edition of that)!
If you are after a topic SV did a project looking at retrofit cavity walll insulation (blown in). I did my house after reading their reports and very happy with results. A shame funding goes to solar panels and not retrofitting wall cavities (much cheaper) and lasts longer than solar panels.
I think having only 90mm of insulation below equipment platforms in the roof is not an issue, as long the area is actually insulated. It's no different from what you suggest at the edges of the roof, which add up to a much larger area. The main thing is to ensure that the insulation coverage is complete.
I'd say the same about the edges of cathedral ceilings, if the area is relatively small.
Having said that, I think these videos are excellent and I wish more builders knew this stuff.
Clear as a bell. Many thanks.
Awesome content guys - In reference to: 13:09 Ceiling insulation at the eave, around the perimeter. Where in the BCA can is the air gap requirements. I'm trying to educate my builder ;)
Great video! I just wish that more builders and building surveyors mandated this level of installation detail as a standard.
And out of curiosity, why not slice the batt for the electrical cables as is done for the plumbing? It would make more sense to slice to allow the cable to be fished through for future changes.
Also, do you still need the sarking ventilation clearance if using anticon insulation blanket.
Cant wait to see how you tackle light, gpo & plumbing fitoff penetrations and maintain minimum clearance and air barrier. (All to often I'll see a sparky come along and rip out a few handfuls of insulation to put in his/ her light/ gpo point. 🙁)
It’s not a good idea to encapsulate electrical cabling. We will be making a video soon, focusing on wiring and insulation. It’s a mine field! 🙃
I will be doing the slicing over plumbing for my retrofit
Yes I'm also curious about your question "Also, do you still need the sarking ventilation clearance if using anticon insulation blanket."?
Encapsulating really want to see that video especially for blow in material ,
@@ecoevo Ah, good answer. I was wondering the same thing. But if the cable is going to pass behind the insulation, then why bother running it through the studs at all? Why not just run the cable around the back of the studs, using some kind of clip to hold it in place? Seems much simpler to me. Am I missing something?
I'm looking forward to your video on this topic.
true
Excellent. I was wondering about best technique for the edge of the roof where the batt is too thick. Also the door tape I bought and grabbed from your mailbox a couple of weeks ago works a treat in my door thanks!
Would be keen on Retrofit options, especially for weatherboard construction houses. What is the right product to insulate stud walls? Say if weatherboards can be removed and replaced, leaving the internal wall linings in place.
Great questions! Retrofit is important, and we will move onto that, in due course.
Great video, I just discovered you guys after buying my first house and loving the information. You mention eave vents at the end, I'd never heard of them(I'm not too knowledgeable on this stuff) and can also say I don't think I've ever seen them installed on any house either! Is there another way that get the ventilation to occur with a vent?
most insulation contractors cant be bothered to do anything properly. Proper installation isn't mandotory per buliding code.
It will be soon! check out the road map for the insulation toon industry builders and inspection will also be audited.
Fantastic videos. Could you do a video on vaulted ceilings and insulation/air flow?
We would love to! And try to.
You talk about ventilation of roof cavity - what if your external wrap is the air-tight vapour permeable barrier, do you need to leave this gap?
We have 20mm ceiling battens screwed to the bottom of our trusses that the pasterboard will be attached to. I am wondering how to fill this gap so the there is no gap between the fibreglass insulation and the gyprock and I am thinking I will add loosefill cellulose insulation on top of the plasterboard and then add the fibreglass insulation on top of this. Does this sound ok.
Awesome, I am a keen observer when it comes to installing batts as I have designed and built out own home. I placed R6 in our ceilings and am now placing another layer of R4 over the top, all internal walls have R2.7 for 90mm stud walls with hebel power panels on the outside. Its getting hotter. Question, what is an effective exhaust venting method for a tin corrie roof, whirly birds seem ineffective, what others have a good lifetime and work over a larger area?
I’m glad you like our videos. Ridge vents are the most effective with eave ventilation, but they can clog up over time. There are also mechanical fans that trigger with humidity, which are pretty effective.
@@ecoevo Cool solution - Do the mechanical ones stay air-tight when not in use?
What are your thoughts on installing two layers of say R3.5 ceiling insulation. One layer between the ceiling joists, and the second layer cross-ways over the top of the first layer to reduce thermal bridging?
For thermal performance, it's a great solution. However, considerations on safety access in the future should also be considered. it is not easy to judge where one can set foot on (where are the joists) if the insulations are installed in that fashion.
Who can i call to install insulation properly in melbourne?
Certified and accredited installers know all this, and the rest don’t mainly know all of this , you need to get Csr Princapal contractors or better still 80% of installers need to do a accredited insulation course mandatory!!! that explains the thermal envelopes Not to mention that bulk insulation create a condensation and breeds mould growth, based on a envelope that doesn’t have a complete thermal seal and a moisture barrier, air sealed is a must, insulation batts are not the answer . Period !! 1800 tech is Still been promoted to this day !! Nanotechnology, thermal coatings and air sealing is the future, tampons are not,
They didn't use batts in 1800, they left houses nice and leaky because coal and timber were cheap and available. You aren't wrong though - batts w/o air barriers are pointless