EPOXY COFFEE TABLE: My biggest failure!!!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- A while back, I told you guys I'd made a mistake and had a bit of a disastrous project. You asked to see the mistake regardless. Today, I share that mistake, spend hours trying to salvage it and still end up not knowing what to do with the project.
As I always, I like to be honest with you guys so whilst this video might not have an end result, I wanted to share it anyway. Maybe you can learn from my mistakes.
MENTIONS: I mentioned these guys in the video. Be sure to check out their channels if you haven't already. All 3 are a source of inspiration to my journey into woodworking.
@MattEstlea
@JesperMakes
@dainermade
I see a lot of potential in that table. I don't think it would hurt to get an inexpensive buffer and some polishing compound and see how it turns out. I would love to see a part two 😉
It's kind of what I'm edging towards. As stupid as it sounds though, my biggest barrier is that tiny air bubble!
@@justbswoodworking The bubble gives it character. A little something to learn from if you will 😁
Put a coaster over it😂
I think it looks great. With some polishing, it'll be incredible. Maybe you can rent a polisher for cheap. I do like the look of OSB, too. I've used it in some of my shop cabinet builds. By the way, interesting pipe clamps.
Cheers mate. I know OSB isn't to everyone's taste but I love the look of it under the Smokey resin. I think they're called sash clamps. I was gifted a couple of rusty ones and bought the 2 in the video for fairly cheap (under £40 on Amazon) considering the size of them.
Definitely finish it! You could always store it and try to make some small projects to make the money to invest in the polishing machine and compounds.
I'm not sure my wife would let me store it for any longer 🤣🤣 There's been some amazing suggestions so this is going to get finished, no matter what the outcome is!
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
I was all enthused about epoxy when I started woodworking a few years back but got the impression that it was far harder than the videos you see on YT & chickened out (for now).
Your experience confirms to me that it's not a method to be trifled with.
For what it's worth, the table looks fine, at least on video. It may not be 100% perfect but definately not somethink to chuck in a skip!
I can see someone falling in love with such a quirky design, warts & all. I can picture it in some trendy craft beer bar, where it may well see some harsh treatment, which would add a few more 'swirly bits' over time. Combined with the OSB, I think this could add to its charm. Don't give up on it mate :)
Cheers for taking the time mate. I don't want to put anyone off epoxy, but you're right - it's harder than some people make out! I think I saw videos and thought I have the space, time and cutting tools! Turns out, there's a whole other stage after that! If I can figure out a way to fill that stupid bubble, I'll probably carry on with it and try to regain my expenses!
Stick with it..... I look forward to part 2.
Cheers mate, After seeing all the support and tips, I'll see this one through!
Please see it through. I think it looks pretty amazing so far. A buffer is not that much if you go for a UK version of a Harbor Freight machine or Ryobi buffer. Go go go!!!
🤣 You guys have been amazing with the support so I think this project is safe from the skip... for now at least! Cheers for taking the time.
A story for you. 🤣 I had to replace a velcro pad on the base of a random orbital sander. The velcro was not dear. I then realised I could make any old pad if it had velcro on it and wasn't dangerous. Hello buffing pad from an old Dacron doona. I do own a polisher. It was absurdly cheap. But I never really use it. Reminds me of the sand blaster I own. With "sand blasting medium". It was cheap but... I ended up making my own from a sturdy empty juice bottle. I use it on the compressor with some fine beach sand. I genuinely almost never use my actual sand blaster...
So you can see where this is going
You're on CZcams. You have a great channel. Very entertaining content. But what I'd do now if I were you is use some "CZcams-fu" - look for a hack to make a good polisher or find one cheap (perhaps second hand/used)… then polish that table. 👍 You could go a completely different way and try get carnauba paste wax on it and a bright colouring, combine the two and highlight those scratches in a novel colour.
There are many ways to turn your project around. And I'll politely say that if that's your idea of failure you ain't ever properly failed yet 🤣🤣🤣
If it were me, I'd either throw some experimental ideas at it or see if someone else wanted to. There's some quality mitres in it and not a bad pour. IMHO is not beyond rescue and is nothing like a failure yet. And epoxy can be a pita. For a first attempt on that scale I think you've done well. 👍
Cheers buddy. I'm determined to see this through now and there will certainly be some 'hacks' rather than forking out more money for it. I think you're right and failure is the wrong word. I was struggling to find a word that describes a project that consistently trips you up while giving you just enough hope that you want to see it through 🤣
Stick with it I'm sure it'll turn out great.
Can't wait for part 2.
After all of the positivity and tips, I'm definitely carrying this one on. There's an incredible community building on this channel! Cheers mate.
Just come across your channel. Nice to see a UK woodworker who uses basic tools in a normal size space. Looking forward to more woodworking videos
Glad you found me, great to have you. Plenty more to come!
A coat of varnish should take care of most of the scratches, if they are not too deep. Test out on a small sample and see if you like the result.
The only think that puts me off varnish is the marks than can be left behind by a hot drink or cold beer! at 400 grit, all scratches seemed to have disappeared for now. Just got to tackle that stupid air bubble! Cheers mate
Combine varnish with blacktail studios n3 nano finish? Varnish gets you the sheen, nano prevents the water marks?
Mate you’re now in my wheel house with resin so hopefully I can help you out.
Firstly the soft part is almost certainly due to the mix I’m pretty sure there was a part that didn’t mix well enough hence the sticky bit. Pouring from one cup to another helps before pouring onto the project and obviously scraping the sides down as you mix.
For sanding every grit you work through just remove the scratches from the previous grit so it’s all about taking your time and don’t put too much pressure on the sander and keep it moving heat is not our friend.
You don’t need special compounds for polishing I have about a dozen different items I use but as a start get yourself down to Halfords and grab some T Cut it’ll work fine.
You don’t need a special polisher either you already own at least two you have a drill that could take a polishing mop or even try your orbital sander with a soft cloth. Again not too much pressure just work it over. You can buy fairly inexpensive polishing mops or just get some microfibre cloths and use those.
To fill the bubbles just dig out any loose material use a Hoover or air gun then fill with epoxy. I’m not a fan of CA but you can grab some five minute epoxy from the pound shop it should cost no more than errrrrr ummm a pound maybe 😂
Finally to finish if you don’t wanna do anymore sanding you can use a spray lacquer over the whole piece which will help to fill some of the remaining scratches and give a clearer appearance.
Failing that I’m happy to send you some higher grit sandpaper if you want?
Hope this helps but never give up.
You sir, are my hero! The main thing putting me off finishing is the expense of polisher and compounds. I know they're relatively inexpensive but £100 on gear that I'm not going to use again for a while was putting me off. Hearing you say about T cut and a microfibre cloth makes me very happy. I know you can get buffing pads for the orbital but I've not read good reviews.
I'm really struggling with that air bubble. I just can't seem to get the dust out and with the pour being so clear it's really obvious!
I've ordered some higher grit sanding discs - what grit would you recommend stopping at. It's looking very smooth now at 400 but I know the more I polish, the more imperfections are going to appear.
Really appreciate you taking the time buddy, means a lot.
@@justbswoodworking Seconded - no need for expensive gear to polish... and it is actually the most satisfying phase so enjoy it Ben you've done the hard yards now mate!
@@justbswoodworking no problem Ben so firstly for the air bubble without making it ridiculously huge you can use a Dremel to drill it out then just pour a small bit bit of resin into it then sand back you’ll never notice it as long as you remove any debris from the hole.
For sanding the main thing is not to jump too high in grit so if you use 120,150,180,240,320,400. Your next jump shouldn’t really be 1000 as it won’t be able to do its job efficiently.
As I said before each grit removes the scratches from the previous one. I think you’re almost where you need to be so after 400 I’d say you use 600 & 800 so by now you’re moving from sanding to polishing/buffing then you can get some abrasive paste like true grit which is around 1000 or hit it with T Cut cream.
Don’t forget as it’s resin you can also use wet and dry sandpaper which comes in different grits too. Lots of options really that are pretty affordable. You’re so close with this it would be shame to give up on it.
Keep at it don't give up hope on the plus side you will have another tool to use as you progress in the Jurney.
🤣🤣That's what I'm scared of... If I buy a polisher I'll want to do another epoxy table... I'm not sure I can take the stress of it 🤣
great learning for me here thank you Ben... and if it makes you feel any better I discovered my own method for wasting plenty of money using epoxy... which is to find it has gone off on my shelf before I even attempted the project, so you are a million miles ahead of me mate!
oh and for your next one (that worm in your head is probably still alive and well) I liked your concept about celebrating the last of the queen's coinage.. how about arranging your shiny coins as either a circle in the middle (one big coin from many) or even a queen's head pattern so you are really making a statement?
🤣🤣 Yeah, your method wins! I was told by Karl Pope that you can just stand the bottles in warm water to bring them back. Not tried it but he certainly knows what he's talking about.
@@justbswoodworking I'll be sure to give that a try thank you for sharing the knowledge!
Thank you for the Vid and sharing the experience. Also you can get cheap buffing pads for your drill and or orbital sander.
Oh and Drill that bubble out, then fill with CA glue
The bubble scares me! it's one tiny bubble in the whole project but it's so obvious. It's exposed but I just can't seem to get the sanding debris out of it. I've tried using a pin to loosed it and then vacuum it but no success. Cheers mate
When I was working with fibreglass resin that wouldn’t cure I would up spraying on some neat catalyst on the sticky patches. Also sanded up to 2000 grit wet and dry.
Another great tip to add to the bank in case I'm ever brave enough to give epoxy another go! Cheers mate
No question about it, see it through. I would research buffing alternatives. There might be a "buffing attachment" for your sander. Also, research car polishing compounds. There are options out there, you just have to find them. I'm looking forward to the next installment.
Cheers mate. I did think about using car polishing compounds but dismissed the idea because I thought I was being stupid. There's now been a few comments saying that it works which just goes to show the power of youtube. Everyone has been amazing with suggestions and advice so this project is certainly getting completed.
I think the spot where it wasn't setting up properly was from not being mixed well. Other epoxy pouring videos show the stirring being done with a flat stick being extra careful to scrape the sides. Pouring the mixed epoxy into another container and mixing some more really ensures it's mixed well along the sides. I've seen a pour that was much worse than yours with many very wet spots that never really set up.
Yeah, I think you're probably right. I mentioned stirring for 5 minutes in the video but each mix was probably 15 minutes in total (re mixing when I took it inside). In future, I'll certainly get a paddle for the drill and use 2 containers like you said. This one was a big learning curve! Cheers mate
For gappy mitres, squeeze glue into gap then use screwdriver shank as burnisher to press corners to point
I remember seeing this tip in a short video - wish I'd remembered it at the time! Cheers mate
@@justbswoodworking William Ng it's where I found it years ago
czcams.com/video/gyHtW_x8Y64/video.html
Another vote to keep going. Can you not get a buffer pad for your sander, rather than buying a polisher, which may only be useful a couple of times.
You can but I haven't found any with good reviews yet. You're bang on - It's the only 'using it a couple of times' thing that puts me off. They're not massively expensive but it's another tool to store and another £60 that could go towards a table saw! Cheers mate
You can get buffing pads that go on your orbital sander. I used them and the seem to do a fair job.
I think that's the plan. Reviews are mixed but it's worth a shot. Cheers mate
Stick with it pal but let it be one of those that you come back to in a bit.
You can by buffing attachments for your sander or grinder which could be a cheaper alternative than a new toy.
Good luck which ever way you go with it.
Yeah, after all the tips and comments, I'll definitely see this one through. I'll either just whack a microfiber cloths on my orbital or but some of the buffing pads (although the reviews make me nervous)
Cheers for watching.
As someone has pointed out you might be able to get buffing pads you can add to an orbital sander or there are ones you can get for a standard drill. And if you buy the buffing compound, a little might go a long way so it's an investment for future epoxy projects?
'future epoxy projects'... it might be a while. I'm scared of the stuff now 🤣🤣🤣
Ah man, the trials and tribulations!
Focus on the positive though:
Im not a fan of overwhelming OSB, but your use of it as a feature in a mitred frame and offset with the coin decorations looks really great. Also great job with that use of pigment, does exactly what you said it would re the yellow.
Re the air bubble, i suggest first blowing it out (compressed air in a can, forceful straw and blow hard, etc.). If it wont blow out, just drill it out a fraction with a tiny drill bit and that will let you blow it out (to avoid scuffing the surface with the bit slipping on the otherwise fairly slick surface, i suggest starting just spinning the bit in your finger tips just to start the indentstion, before moving to a drill). In terms of filling, i get that superglue wouldnt be great for where your at in the sanding process. Alternative suggestion, try some of the uv cure epoxy! I came across this whilst trying to diy a windscreen repair. Whats great about it is you can fill it clear, wipe of excess, cure it with uv light (i got one that was glue and light in one), and then CUT IT FLUSH WITH A RAZOR BLADE meaning you could just go straight in at sanding it to match the finish at 400 grit, just to blend it (no sanding it down with higher grits). My only concern would be it showing up clearer than the rest of the table because of lack of tint - not sure what the solution there would be, but it might not even be visible.
Re finishing, some other good suggestions in your comments. Alternatively could do a self leveling flood coat (a different epoxy)...
Looking forward to part 2
Cheers Fred. Appreciate the kind words. I'm scared you might be right about the 'drilling out'. I just can't seem to get the debris out. Your predictions about the tint of the fill are also playing on my mind. In the scheme of things, 10 tiny drops of pigment per litre of epoxy isn't much but it's certainly not going to match up. I'm going to see this through and post the results but I think I'm going to leave it a week or 2. I've ordered some high grit sanding disks and have some time off work coming up - I don't want to revisit it on a weekend where I'm short of time! Cheers buddy.
Maybe you can buy buffing discs or a buffing attachment for your sander?
That was my first thought but the reviews I saw were not great. Tough call as I've actually really enjoyed learning from this one but don't want it to become a money sink!
See it through
Regards Bill
Cheers Bill. After hearing all the tips and support, this projects getting finished no matter the outcome!
It's not a complete write-off, mate. Even if it ends up in a skip, you have learned a few things on the way. Next time, you'll bring those lessons with you to the next epoxy project.👍🏻
You're absolutely right. The reason I kept at the sanding was because I wanted to get all mistakes out the way in case I'm ever brave enough to try epoxy again! I learned a tonne during that 4 hours of sanding!
@@justbswoodworking, just keep on trucking. Love watching your progress, as it means there is hope for me to improve too.😁👍🏻
1) round over the edges of the top. 2) swirly marks -> for the future, hand sand back and forth to get rid of the swirls. 3) get some automotive wet/dry sand paper from 600-1500/2000 grit and wet sand the top ($5-10 for a pack that includes everything). 4) get it to the best level you can and then put at least 3 coats of poly on the whole thing.
I agree about the top being rounded over. As everything is becoming smoother, the 'sharp' edges are starting to bother me. I thought it was the look I was going for but I've changed my mind. I know poly is very commonly used in the woodworking world but it's not something I'm familiar with - I'm more of a stain/wax kinda guy. I'm a bit worried about using it on this project! Cheers buddy
@@justbswoodworking Lacquer, poly, varnish, automotive spray clear coat or hard wax oil, whatever. Something that will "gloss up" up the sanded top.
Take a scrap piece, put some epoxy on it, sand it and then spray it or put a coating on it to see how it reacts before you commit.
Love the channel.
Great learning experience! Super awesome to see you toil away and push through.
Cheers mate, Couldn't of done it without the support of the wife (nagging me for 3 months to "get that stupid table finished and out of the house".
Maybe try a little hydrogen peroxide on the soft bit? It could stimulate some additional crosslinking. Also, I think you can get buffing pads for random orbital sanders
Actually never mind. That's absolutely fine
As in on the 'unset' epoxy? Not something I've heard of but this is exactly why I shared my mistakes - to hear solutions like that!
@@justbswoodworking yep exactly
OSB is not my style, in my weak eyes it appears a little trashy (but not as bad as chipboard), but maybe I should give it a go in some projects. Kudos for that fancy idea and showing all the details. Nice build!
I know OSB divides opinions! Trouble is, I had an idea in my head and I can't help but try it out! Cheers for watching buddy
@@justbswoodworking OSB is dividing people like to cat/dog/non-pet ;-) I would still admire your work, if you'd finish it. Looking forward to that, I really hate that fancy "just some polishing and there is a 10-grand-table made". Loving honest work with honest mistakes, or as in Bob Ross' voice: "There are no mistakes, Just tiny happy accidents." Keep on polishing that shiny A** of a penny table!
Sometimes you just have to cut your losses ,Argos do a Guild DA machine for £65 ,and don't forget the machine will then come in handy for polishing your car then you will become multi skilled in woodwork and car detailing lol
🤣🤣🤣 I think if I used a buffing machine on the van, there wouldn't be any paintwork left!
11:41 Aber natürlich!
Put a super think coat of epoxy on it and the the scratches go away.
Would I not be back in the same boat of sanding it up from 120? Genuine question... this is brand new to me!
@@justbswoodworking Yes and no. another layer of epoxy will fill the scratches and give you a much clearer finish. In theory, you will not need to sand after that. The real life downside is that, depending on the epoxy and your setup, it might not be flat and level. To flatten it, you have to sand, and the second you do that you are going to need to work through grits all the way into the thousands, and then buff with rubbing compound to get back to that "clearness". I've sanded all the way up to 4000 and still not gotten to same level of clarity as leaving it alone, you really need to buff to get back there.
So, if you are ok with the risk of some high/low bits, just flood it with a new coat. If you want it flat, you got some work ahead of you...
Could you not take it to a workshop and see if they would buff it for you? Or rent the tools perhaps?
Not a bad shout. I suppose what I'm wrestling with it putting anymore money into a project I know I'm not going to see a return on! It certainly looks OK but not sure I could charge £500 😢
If you are anything like me, you'll finish it for the love of woodworking 🤣👍🏻 I've been tinkering for a year and not even tried to sell anything, just male stuff and gift them out 🤷♂️ its about the fun my friend 😏 that being said ..... 500 quid 😬
@@chicobabyification 100% me. I've sold the odd think to colleagues and made some gifts but it's mostly just for the love of it. It's the only thing I really have where I can get to be creative!